team3s
Sunday, May 21
2000
Volume 01 : Number
143
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 23:30:13 -0700
From:
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Fingers Crossed & Knock on Wood
By some miracle of orneriness
(probably because the car overheard our talk of
torches and saws) the hood
latch just started working again tonight. After
several nights of heartache
and pounding (literally) on the thing. I don't know
if ANYTHING we did
affected it, but I'm glad it started working.
So thanks to everyone for
the information about hoods. We are going to take some
time to research a
good carbon fibre hood for the VR-4. In the mean time we are
back on for
racing (and passing tech!)
Nissa
95 VR-4 (POS jury out at the moment,
lets see if she lasts 'til Thunderhill!)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 02:09:26 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Borla re-post
> Hi gang, just wanted to know if the Borla cat
back exhaust is
> a dual system like stock or is it single. Thanks
guys.
Borla is a dual system from after the main cat to the exhaust
tips. There is a muffler on each side of the car, and a single large tip
on each of the two mufflers.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 07:32:20 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bars
I will have more info on a www page soon.
You
will have to wait till then, to dig into the group buy.
..money up front
will be required, just gotta decide how much..what addco has
to
say..pricing..etc.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
BHurvitz@aol.com [
mailto:BHurvitz@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, May
19, 2000 6:27 PM
To:
bbedell@austin.rr.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
I would also be interested in a sway bar group
purchase. Are there any
differences inthe sway bars between the various year
cars, or are they all
the same?
Bob 91TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 10:51:16 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>I will have more info on a www page
soon.
>>You will have to wait till then, to dig into the group
buy.
>
I don't want to rain on anybody's parade, but I was able to get
even
temperatures across my front tires without a sway bar -- just Eibachs
and
camber plates. I'm not altogether sure how a sway bar can improve
anything
beyond that. However, I am eager to learn: Just exactly what do you
guys
expect to accomplish with these sway bars? I am with child in
anticipation
of your answer.
My next expenditure will be a set
of GABs, cuz the Eibachs are taking out
my stock struts slowly but
surely.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 13:28:58 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: RE: Team3S: oil
leak...
>I don't change my oil. Too much trouble, too dirty, and I
never know what
>to do with the old oil.
>Instead, I take it to my
Mitsu dealer, and have them put in a Mitsu filter
>and Mobil
1.
>
>I'm glad you had a good experience. There are probably many
more people out
>there who have had a bad experience with Jiffy Lube and
the rest of that
>quick-change crowd -- everything from failing to replace
the drain plug to
>putting a hole in the filter.
>
>Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
You mentioned that you didn't know what to do with the
used oil; just wanted
to let you know that Pep Boys and most auto stores
will accept used oil and
they will recycle it. You can usually also find a
place to pour used oil at
your local recycling center. You can also take
other used fluids such as gear
oil to pep boys.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 15:36:36 EDT
From:
Mitsukid99@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Front wheel bearing..
Anyone do this before(on a nonturbo, not the one
piece setup of the turbo)?
What tools and parts are
necessary? My front-driver bearing is shot and the
steering is sloppy
and I can hear it chirp the tires on turns(bad bad). I
dont have my
manual available(josh.hmm) but does anyone have info on this or
can send me
the manual pages?
Ant
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 14:58:57 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RC Injectors
About that one unfortunate post regarding a messed
up piston... You said you
used RC injectors? 2 or 3 of the vendors I have
talked to, have told me to
stay away from the RC injectors, and just get the
ND, or some other kind
(can't remember). The reason was crappy spray pattern,
but I don't know
exactly why.
Sorry!
Vineet
Singh
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 14:56:18 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!
My 92 Stealth has been under the knife for
about 4 days now. If you might
recall, I posted about having smoke (blue)
between shifts and at high vacuum
conditions (-19+). It was QUITE
irritating.
However, it seemed to also be quite expensive to fix, as most
of the people
I talked to, told me it was valve guides and seals, since it
didn't smoke
ALL the time. This was looking to be a 2000$ repair, and a hell
of a lot of
work!
One person on our lists told me that he had dual
exhausts (true). Well he
gave me the idea to figure out WHICH bank of the
engine was culprit. X'ing
my fingers, I loosened up the little front precat
and took it off, blocked
off the exhaust so the rear bank would exit
normally, the front would be
right under the front of the car.
Viola!
Big clouds of smoke from the FRONT of the car, meaning it was
isolated to the
FRONT bank/turbo. Jack T, Roger, and some others I'm
forgetting to mention (I
get too many emails a day!) all told me it sounds
more like turbo... well
that's what I had ORIGINALLY thought, so I had
bought a good set from Roger
earlier.
I ordered all the parts from Conicelli mitsubishi (Josh, he
rocks, he also
has a 3000gt vr4 and Galant vr4, and great prices/service).
They got here,
and started on the imposing task of removing/replacing belts
(pulleys were
screeching), and the front turbo.
It's fairly straight
forward, but you have to remove a ton of unneeded shi+
to get to it. I made
the mistake of putting all back together last nite...
and turned around to
find I forgot to re-install the oil dipstick tube...
LUCKILY I didn't have to
take the radiator out, just the IC pipes and heat
sheilds for the
manifold/turbo.
Today I am so happy, no smoke, much more performance (and
I didn't even
touch the boost controller yet :), and overall
quieter!
While I was in the area, I cleaned up ALL the parts that I took
out or had
access to. Man, you can't imagine how much grime builds up on the
BOTTOM of
your engine/accessories, if you SPILL OIL WHEN FILLING! It all
drips down to
your manifold, alternator, AC, and lower cross members/pipes.
Gross. Looks
good now.
The only thing major left is the stupid
"creaking/jarring" when slow
down/brake, that is coming from the passenger
front tire. I have no idea
what it is, but I don't think it's the CV, it's
not ripped or anything.
Wheel bearing? Front differential (in our Vunderful
Getrash tranny's)? For
fun, I'm going to check the damn lugnuts after this
email.
Thanks to everyone that read my posts and mailed me suggestions.
You guys
make this club great!
PS: I like the new 3si.org
look!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 18:47:45 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Crankcase filter installation...
I've located the hose
that goes from the rear valve cover to the intake
after the MAS and the hose
that connects the two valve covers. Where do the
filters actually get
installed? I'm assuming that the hose from the rear valve
cover to the
intake should be capped on the intake side and the filter installed
on the
valve cover side, what about the front valve cover? Pics would
be
helpful.
Thanks,
Jason
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 00:54:13 +0300
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Team3S:
ARC-2
Hi all,
I'll instal ARC-2 with RC 550 inj next week. Turbos
- stock 9B.
Unfortunetaly I don't have datalogger, and it is very difficult
to tune
ARC-2. How do you think what "low","mid","high", and "accel" settings
are
best for car with this
setup?
Thanks
Oleg
94'VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 16:00:39 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Removing the Tranny and block...
Ok, well, I'm installing a new engine
over the course of the next couple
weeks and I've gotten to the place where
the heads are off, but I need to
pull the block out of the car (somehow) and
put in a new block that I got
from M & S. The only thing is that
I'm unsure about how to remove the
tranny. I've heard I need a
transmission jack. How is that different from
a regular hydralic floor
jack? I've also noticed that the tranny has a flat
section on the
bottom. Is that were the jack would go, or is the center of
gravity
somewhere else such that if I put a jack there, the tranny would
want to flop
over.
Also, I was wondering if it is possible to remove the engine block
from the
bottom. I don't have an engine hoist, but I can rent one if I
really need
it.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I've
never attempted this.
The tranny and the block intimidate me because of their
weight, so I'm a
little hesitant as to how to remove them and install them
again safely.
Thanks again,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (soon to have a
94 engine block and GTPRO 355 turbos)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 16:57:27 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bars
Well, temps are a combination of a lot of things..most
of which is alignment
settings and tire pressures.
Increased/decreased
roll from sway bar additions will change that a little, but
again that will
need to be adjusted with alignment measurements and
tire
pressures.
Sway bars will affect how the car tracks into and out
of a turn, will greatly
increase the effectiveness of ackerman alignment
settings, and allow the car to
hook up into a turn quicker, as the car will
roll less in the same period of
time as you begin a turn...and likewise allow
the car to sit flatter quicker..to
be able to apply more power
sooner.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Saturday, May 20, 2000 8:51 AM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
BHurvitz@aol.com;
bbedell@austin.rr.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>I will have more info on a www page
soon.
>>You will have to wait till then, to dig into the group
buy.
>
I don't want to rain on anybody's parade, but I was able to get
even
temperatures across my front tires without a sway bar -- just Eibachs
and
camber plates. I'm not altogether sure how a sway bar can improve
anything
beyond that. However, I am eager to learn: Just exactly what do you
guys
expect to accomplish with these sway bars? I am with child in
anticipation
of your answer.
My next expenditure will be a set
of GABs, cuz the Eibachs are taking out
my stock struts slowly but
surely.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 17:00:57 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Fingers Crossed & Knock on Wood
Well, hood is again screwed
up.
Its stuck again.
Will leave it 'unlatched' and drive
around like normal..and im sure it'll
eventually snap/pop loose.
At
which time we will install a brand new latch thats on order.
I dont
feel/see any out of alignment problems with it..it just wont
release
itself.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mohler,Anissa
Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 11:30 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Fingers Crossed & Knock on Wood
By some miracle of
orneriness (probably because the car overheard our talk of
torches and saws)
the hood latch just started working again tonight. After
several nights of
heartache and pounding (literally) on the thing. I don't know
if ANYTHING we
did affected it, but I'm glad it started working.
So thanks to everyone
for the information about hoods. We are going to take some
time to research a
good carbon fibre hood for the VR-4. In the mean time we are
back on for
racing (and passing tech!)
Nissa
95 VR-4 (POS jury out at the moment,
lets see if she lasts 'til Thunderhill!)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 17:31:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Removing the Tranny and block...
Chris,
The mechanic
removed and replaced my engine and trany together from
the bottom. The car
will have to be suspended faily high, using the
large crossmember behind the
engine. A hoist is still needed for the
engine after the body is lowered down
onto it. The front crossmember
will have to be removed also. I think an
advantage is that the trany
can be sealed to the engine off the car. I don't
know if
through-the-bottom is realy better than through-the-top. I
wasn't
able to participate in the whole process as much as I wanted to,
but
did help put the engine in. It's a heavy SOB. Damn, wouldn't it
be
nice to have a 200-300 lb engine!
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth
TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 20, 2000 5:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: Removing the Tranny and
block...
<snip>
Also, I was wondering if it is possible to
remove the engine block
from the bottom. I don't have an engine hoist,
but I can rent one if
I really need it.
<snip>
Thanks
again,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (soon to have a 94 engine block and GTPRO
355 turbos)
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
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http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 20:24:50 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Sway bars will affect how the car tracks into
and out of a turn....
Omigawd! An educated person! Anyone who knows how
to use the word "affect"
properly is OK.
I should pay attention to what
you have to say.
So, you think higher-rate sway bars will help it corner,
eh?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 18:54:45 -0700
From: "jim berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sway bars
> Increased/decreased roll from sway bar additions will
change that a
little, but
> again that will need to be adjusted with
alignment measurements and tire
> pressures.
>
> Sway bars
will affect how the car tracks into and out of a turn, will
greatly
>
increase the effectiveness of ackerman alignment settings, and allow the
car
to
> hook up into a turn quicker, as the car will roll less in the same
period
of
> time as you begin a turn...and likewise allow the car to
sit flatter
quicker..to
> be able to apply more power
sooner.
======================================================
Is it
better to stop roll with bars or with springs --- I know that
increasing the
anti-roll
bar stiffness also does weird things to the crossweight biasing
???
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 19:56:40 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bars
*laugh*
Thanks..*grins*
It
depends(tm).
Tire width, alignment, ackerman settings, front/rear
distribution..and MOST
importantly the track width differences front to
rear.
Sway bars are an important part of the math, but often greatly
misunderstood in
thier application. Too stiff is a reasonably easy
thing to achieve, but I would
have to admit probly not on bars made for the
street.
Hang around some of the mechanical genius in your SCCA region,
and you can
discover some interesting ways to end up with adjustable sway
bars..even on cars
that have no provision for it, or bars that arent made for
it.
Friend of mine in Tulsa, had a facinating setup on his Gen-2 RX7s,
where the
action of the end link would change, based on steering angle.
Even with the car
not moving, going from full R to L on the wheel, you could
see the car rise &
dip from side to side. The coolest part, was
that it was 100% stock class
legal.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Saturday, May 20, 2000 6:25 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
BHurvitz@aol.com;
bbedell@austin.rr.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Sway bars will affect how the car tracks
into and out of a turn....
Omigawd! An educated person! Anyone who knows
how to use the word "affect"
properly is OK.
I should pay attention to
what you have to say.
So, you think higher-rate sway bars will help it
corner, eh?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 19:59:18 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Sway bars
You tune transitions and under/oversteer with bars, and
you provide weight
control with springs.
Bars used for weight control,
really screw your world up when it comes to
performance
driving.
Define a purpose, and get the springs to hold the car how you
want it, and bars
to control how the car turns.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: jim berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Saturday,
May 20, 2000 6:55 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
BHurvitz@aol.com;
bbedell@austin.rr.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
> Increased/decreased roll from sway bar
additions will change that a
little, but
> again that will need to be
adjusted with alignment measurements and tire
> pressures.
>
>
Sway bars will affect how the car tracks into and out of a turn,
will
greatly
> increase the effectiveness of ackerman alignment
settings, and allow the
car to
> hook up into a turn quicker, as the
car will roll less in the same period
of
> time as you begin a
turn...and likewise allow the car to sit flatter
quicker..to
> be able
to apply more power
sooner.
======================================================
Is it
better to stop roll with bars or with springs --- I know that
increasing the
anti-roll
bar stiffness also does weird things to the crossweight biasing
???
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 22:48:22 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Sway bars are an important part of the math,
but often greatly
misunderstood in
>thier application. Too stiff
is a reasonably easy thing to achieve, but I
would
>have to admit
probly not on bars made for the street. Hang around some of
the mechanical
genius in your SCCA region, and you can discover some
interesting ways to end
up with adjustable sway bars.
>
The SCCA mechanical geniuses (track
instructors) told me to leave my
suspension ALONE -- they said my car corners
completely flat, and the tire
temperatures are within 5 F across the face.
I am still not hearing any compelling reason for sway bars.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/old and flat
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 20 May 2000 20:11:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sway bars
Then by all means..dont *grin*
However its
not a blanket statement that all driving styles, (amongst
other things) would
match yours.
Whatever makes YOU a quicker driver..is 110% OK by me.
*grin*
Thats the beauty of auto racing..
On Sat, 20 May 2000,
Merritt wrote:
> >Sway bars are an important part of the math, but
often greatly
> misunderstood in
> >thier application. Too
stiff is a reasonably easy thing to achieve, but I
> would
>
>have to admit probly not on bars made for the street. Hang around some
of
> the mechanical genius in your SCCA region, and you can discover
some
> interesting ways to end up with adjustable sway bars.
>
>
> The SCCA mechanical geniuses (track instructors) told me to leave
my
> suspension ALONE -- they said my car corners completely flat, and the
tire
> temperatures are within 5 F across the face.
>
> I am
still not hearing any compelling reason for sway bars.
>
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/old and flat
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
21 May 2000 07:05:03 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
I finally pulled the engine in my 91 VR4.
I just got the oil pan off and the rods look good, nothing is too loose. I
pulled the engine because of rod knocking so I will have to remove the rod and
main bearing caps and plastigage the clearance if I don’t see any obvious
damage. I will keep list updated on progress.
The great news is
that my wife gave me permission to make performance modifications too the
car. Since the engine is out it is a great time to do
them. My questions are:
1. Gutting pre-cats, If I leave the regular
Catalytic converter alone will the exhaust be much louder and I how much power
increase can I expect (w/o other changes). I wangt to leave the regular
Catalytic converter alone so I could pass an emmissions test if I ever had to.
2. What is a good piston for a engine that will be only mildly
modifed?
John Monnin 1991 VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #143
*********************
team3s
Monday, May 22
2000
Volume 01 : Number
144
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 16:42:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Message (informal)
Hey gals, guys or friends (sounds better,
hehe).
We're happy with the really low "crap" we have on this list and
like to
thank all of you for your great input, messages, tips and tricks and
... fun
;-).
But we also like to remind you all that some stuff like
"race me" or
chatting stuff should be kept private as well as some domestic
car stuff or
other non 3S are not of much interest (sure you don't want to
hear the story
of my Z28. LOL) for anyone on the list. Of course some
"emergency calls" or
track run reports are ok and as long as we don't have
any excessive response
on off-topic stuff we don't see any
problems.
Another note, please change also the topic when the content is
different !
For example, I'm not interested in any sway bar and just delete
the message
with that topic. But as I checked afterwards I found one post
with other,
not really Sway Bar related content. So, please help us lazy
readers not to
miss some good information ;-)
Thanks to all and drive
safely
Roger for the admins
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 16:15:11 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RC Injectors
> About that one unfortunate post regarding a
messed up piston... You said
you
> used RC injectors? 2 or 3 of the
vendors I have talked to, have told me to
> stay away from the RC
injectors, and just get the ND, or some other kind
> (can't remember). The
reason was crappy spray pattern, but I don't know
> exactly
why.
Well you can get 720 NDs with a flow difference of about 10% ! My RC
(Bosch)
have been balanced and came within a 0.1% range including a sheet
with the
data. No problems for me :-)) The injectors he got were probably the
ones
that have been sold from one to another and again to another guy. I've
heard
of such a bad set !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 16:07:13 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Borla re-post
> Borla is a dual system from after the main cat
to the exhaust tips. There
is a muffler on each side of the car, and a
single large tip on each of the
two mufflers.
The Borla is not a dual
system as it only splits into an y at the rear diff
and then ends into two
resonators. With this noise yo ucan't tel lthem
mufflers
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 16:21:45 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ARC-2
> Unfortunetaly I don't have datalogger, and it is very
difficult to tune
> ARC-2.
You can't say it's difficult as you
haven't done this already (smile) and I
can tell you it's easier than you
think. Without the datalogger just follow
the direction in the manual and
thats' it :)
> How do you think what "low","mid","high", and "accel"
settings are
> best for car with this setup?
Hmmm, I guess you have
Rev 2 of the ARC so my settings are not good for you.
Just start with 0,0,0,1
click.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 16:12:16 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!
Vineet,
Good to hear you solved the
problem, but ... was it the turbo or what was
the exact problem now
??
> I ordered all the parts from Conicelli mitsubishi (Josh, he
rocks, he also
> has a 3000gt vr4 and Galant vr4, and great
prices/service). They got here,
> and started on the imposing task of
removing/replacing belts (pulleys were
> screeching), and the front
turbo.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 10:08:53 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Borla re-post
> The Borla is not a dual system as it only
splits into an y at the rear diff
> and then ends into two resonators.
With this noise yo ucan't tel lthem
> mufflers !
He had asked if it
was a dual "like the stock one", which I took to mean that it has two outputs on
the back of the car, one on each side.
As far as I know, there isn't a
"real" dual system available unless you want to spend really big bucks to get
something that hooks two separate pipes from the pre-cat housings.
Therefore it is "dual" compared to something like the some of the others
available, which exit on one side, and is more "dual" than the stock exhaust
since the flow is split upstream of the
mufflers/resonators/empty-coffee-cans.
:-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 10:22:28 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RC Injectors
I got my RC's brand new from Altered
Atmosphere...with a flow sheet...
Trev
"R.G." wrote:
>
> About that one unfortunate post regarding a messed up piston... You
said
> you
> > used RC injectors? 2 or 3 of the vendors I have
talked to, have told me to
> > stay away from the RC injectors, and
just get the ND, or some other kind
> > (can't remember). The reason
was crappy spray pattern, but I don't know
> > exactly
why.
>
> Well you can get 720 NDs with a flow difference of about
10% ! My RC (Bosch)
> have been balanced and came within a 0.1% range
including a sheet with the
> data. No problems for me :-)) The injectors
he got were probably the ones
> that have been sold from one to another
and again to another guy. I've heard
> of such a bad set !
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 21 May 2000 18:28:01 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Borla re-post
I believe that Bozz Speed offers a true dual
exhaust system for our cars. It's about $1600 and I hear it includes
downpipes (2 I guess). It's a nice idea but I understand that there are
some questions regarding it's effectiveness and I've yet to hear of anyone
running or testing it.
Jason
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 08:31:13 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: For
sale: HKS dual tip cat-back exhaust
Hello all,
I'm selling my dual
tip HKS cat-back on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=335608404Please
e-mail me privately with any questions.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 May 2000 07:43:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
Hi John, Congrats on the
permission!
1. I didn't notice that gutting the pre-cats made my stock
exhaust
system much louder. "Better" is probably a good description.
Passing
emmissions here in CO was no problem with only the main
cat.
2. I think any forged piston is good insurance. I don't think it
is
the mods that stress out our engines, but the detonation that
can
happen in a stock or modified engine with bad gas or higher
boost
levels. Venolia, Arias, and JE (others?) make pistons for our cars.
And of course there are the stock Mitsu ones. Shops like GT-PRO,
Dynamic
Racing, and Accel. Access. could probably give you great
advice for
this.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin" <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
To:
"3000GT News Group" <
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:05 AM
Subject: Team3S: Gutting pre-cats
I
finally pulled the engine in my 91 VR4. I just got the oil pan off
and
the rods look good, nothing is too loose. I pulled the engine
because
of rod knocking so I will have to remove the rod and main
bearing caps and
plastigage the clearance if I don’t see any obvious
damage. I will keep
list updated on progress.
The great news is that my wife gave me
permission to make performance
modifications too the car. Since
the engine is out it is a great
time to do them. My questions
are:
1. Gutting pre-cats, If I leave the regular Catalytic converter
alone
will the exhaust be much louder and I how much power increase can
I
expect (w/o other changes). I wangt to leave the regular
Catalytic
converter alone so I could pass an emmissions test if I ever had
to.
2. What is a good piston for a engine that will be only
mildly
modifed?
John Monnin 1991 VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #144
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