team3s
Friday, May 19
2000
Volume 01 : Number
141
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 18:33:01 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
> I'm
assuming that I have either a bad injector harness/connection, or a bad
>
injector(s).
I've seen many engines fail on dyno where a failure in one
cylinder will cause
secondary damage in other cylinders from debris escaping
a cylinder through an open
intake valve and getting sucked into another
cylinder. Although unlikely, escaping
piston material could have
damaged your new injectors and may be responsible for
secondary damage to
subsequent cylinders.
You may be forced to over bore if a hone doesn't
clean-up the bores (assuming there
is bore damage). Our engines can
easily accept .030" overbore as long as your block
didn't have excessive core
shift while being cast. Most shops can check this
before
machining.
> So what are you ideas on forged pistons? I was
thinking JE Pistons & Total Seal
> Rings. Those seem to be our best
bet. Do you think I should get it bored .30
> over to up the displacement?
Anyone heard of any problems with this? Do you
> think I should replace
the rods?
After researching the subject I wanted Venolia pistons and
Carrillo rods (disputably
the best in their respective fields) and then
purchased the Carrillo rods but
settled on Ross pistons. Most forged
pistons offered are stock copies (which isn't
necessarily bad) but
improvements can be made to add safety factor. The changes
Ross made
for Brian at GT Pro are good for our application. The most
significant
changes being a lowered ring pack, full floating pin (w 4340
tapered wall pin), and
total seal rings. I believe JE is just as good
as Ross, but you'd have to work with
them (give them the specifics) to make
any changes from a stock copy.
To use a full floating pin, you'll need to
modify the stock rods or buy aftermarket
(you'll want a bushed rod with
oiling provisions). The stock rods are excellent but
heavy (balance
pads are huge for ease of manufacture). Going aftermarket also
allows
you to customize your setup (such as wider small end of con rod for
reduced
pin flex, elimination of squirter, etc.).
I'm sure many would
love to debate rod squirters, but the fact is they do little
more than add to
windage issues and create stress risers. Calling it a squirter
is
misleading since typical oil pressure at the squirter is less than 10psi
(with a
main gallery pressure of ~60psi). It is more like a
dribbler. The Carrillo rods
geometry actually promote splash to travel
towards the piston more so than a typical
H beam design rod (if you've ever
seen a Carrillo rod, you can visualize this).
Also recall that our blocks
have actual squirters on the top of the mains that
squirt the bottom side of
the piston. Enough said, unless someone would like to
debate
further. BTW - I have no affiliation and do not benefit from advertising
for
Carrillo, Ross, or anyone listed.
Also, buying both rods and
pistons allows you to change the pin size which I
initially was going to
do. I wanted a larger pin (stock is 22mm and I wanted a
.927" - common
SBC) but decided against it based on several recommendtions.
Everyone will
have a different opinion, don't let that alarm you. I can elaborate
if
you're interested.
My cost was ~$1, 000 for pistons and a little more
than that for the Carrillo rods.
Pistons took 3 weeks while I'm still waiting
on the rods (13 week lead time!).
Crower was cheaper ($160 each) and only
needed 5-8 weeks. Crower would be lighter
and stronger than stock, but
again, I prefer Carrillo and my car is going to be down
for awhile anyways
for head porting, headers, etc. so 13 week lead time was not
an
issue.
Best of Luck, happy shopping,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 15:59:17 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Borla exhaust
That's good to know. I guess I'd better quit telling
people to buy the
Borla from Jeg's huh?
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> [
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Curt Gendron
>
> Actually, Jeg's stopped selling it for
that price awhile ago. I've read
> many posts from other lists
alluding to that.
>
> But you can get the Borla TT exhaust from
CarParts for about $455 plus
> shipping. Just go to my CarParts page
at:
>
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
and scroll down and follow the
> directions
> for the 25% off
links. Its a heck of a buy.
>
> later,
>
Curt
>
> p.s. The Upper Midwest Gathering is this weekend in
Wisconsin Dells.
> Details:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>
>
>
>From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
> >
>
>Actually, Jeg's has been selling the Borla exhaust for the VR4 for
at
> >$470-ish for a number of years.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
***Info:
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>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 21:21:20 -0400
From: "Bob_Rand" <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
I hate it, I just hate it (heads,turbos,etc)
Roger, Don't forget a
very important addition to your tool box for this
job. BAND
AIDS!
I know you will do a wonderful job and have lots of hints coming
our way.
Good Luck
Bob
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
> Sorry
for the words but today I started to remove the heads and turbos for
> the
upgrades I have ready.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 18:28:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I hate it, I just hate it (heads,turbos,etc)
Thats
right..dont forget that if you dont bleed, you didnt do it
right.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 21:02:29 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
"R.G."
wrote:
> Trevor, bad to hear about the damage.
>
> >
middle one which was 109 psi. Not good. Since the back bank is running
>
really
> > lean now (<.52V) I'm assuming that I have either a bad
injector
> > harness/connection, or a bad injector(s).
>
>
Mine was even worse with only about 70psi or so (gulp). But you have a
>
datalogger, right ? If you go into DRB mode there is a map wuth the 6
>
injectors available. Just let it idle and switch off the injectors form 1
to
> 6. On each one idle feels crappy then or at least you will notice
a
> difference. You'll find the problem on the one where no change in idle
is
> noticeable. As the rear middle one is shot anyways (the same where
the
> problem was at its worst level on my car) you may feel only a small
if any
> difference when ideling.
My car's OBDII and my scan tool
doesn't have the function you described. Sounds
cool though! I'll stick with
swapping the injectors around.
> > I installed the new RC
engineering injectors about 350 miles before this
> happened. I used the
metal retaining clips
>
> What RC injectors where these ? Look at
the RC balance sheet you got with
> them and on the bottom the
manufactirer is noted. My 710cc are Bosch type
> and the retainer clip
does not work !
Injector Make: Lucas
Injector Type: P&H 2.5
The
retainer clip went on mine just like the stock injectors, no
problem!
> > So what are you ideas on forged pistons? I was
thinking JE Pistons & Total
> Seal
> > Rings. Those seem to
be our best bet. Do you think I should get it bored
> .30
> >
over to up the displacement? Anyone heard of any problems with
this?
>
> The problem with a rebuilt engine is that you shoould let
do the bores and
> pistons in the same shop otherwise you have too large
tolerance. You can
> overbore it but don't go above 3.1 litre !
I
hear what you're saying. Don't go out and purchase pistons before they
hone
out the cylinders. They might have to take off a lot of cylinder wall so
the
pistons I bought would be too small. Stock bore is 91.1mm and max bore is
93. I
found a place that has JE forged pistons in stock that are 92mm and
8.5
compression. $634 with rings and pins.
> > Do you think I
should replace the rods?
>
> No, not necessary, although lighter
ones would be nice, hehe.
>
> > There's really no way to swap
pistons while the block is still in the car,
> right?
>
> Not
true. My mechanic did this with the engine in the car. The heads and
>
turbos where off of course but they pulled them together. Then they
removed
> the oil pan and transfer case and went through the bottom to the
pistons.
> Don't ask me more details as I came back to the mechanic just
before the
> turbos went back in .
Awesome! Maybe I can find a
place that can do that. I'm kinda short on $$$ right
now after my tranny went
to Getrag heaven.
> > I'm thinking no since you have to hone the
cylinders and the shavings will
> get on
> > the crankshaft AND
you have to balance the rotating assembly which is
> > impossible while
on the car.
>
> We didn't touch the crankshaft nor the rods. Only
new pistons (unfortunately
> original ones), ring and pins. They honed the
cyls in the car.
Great!
> Good luck ;-)
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
Thanks
Roger!
Trev
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 21:35:58 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can anyone help me with a problem concerning a power antenna?
+> Hi, i posted a message a few weeks ago,
asking if it was easy to replace
the mast only, because i could hear
the motor running. I did what i was told,
i unscrewed the retaing
nut, and had someone turn on the radio while i pulled
the antenna out.
Well the antenna came up, but it didn't come out, so i couldn
't replace it.
While the antenna was up, i turned off the radio, and i couldn't
hear
the motor anymore. I checked the fuses and they were fine, later on the
a
ntenna went down, and i thought it was fixed, but then when i turned on the
rad
io back on nothing happened. Can anyone help? Thank
you
+>
+> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
The
problem with the mast is that the outermost sleeve is stuck in the base.
You
need to give it a heave ho with some vise grips.. It sounds like
you
may have electrical problems as well though..
I did this
last fall and took a few pictures.. I finally got around to
making a
web page for it today.
http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/hope
it helps someone, cause I sure could've used the pictures when I was
doing
the job..
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI
G60
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 22:01:42 -0700
From:
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Time for a Mod
OK guys...
How much for... a carbon fiber
or custom hood? How much for a regular one?
How much for front
bumper?
One of these will have to be destroyed to get at the
#(*$&(@*#& latch.
Any links to good places to search? I'll also
talk to Mitsu for the stock
prices, but since I'll probably be replacing one
or the other why not mod as I
go?
Nissa
95 3000GT VR-4
POS
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 02:38:59 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Borla
re-post
Hi gang, just wanted to know if the Borla cat back exhaust is a
dual system
like stock or is it single. Thanks guys.
Bill in
NY
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 23:48:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sway bars
Im sure this has been hashed..but didnt see it in
archives.
Sway bars...who has em for the VR4?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 23:49:10 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Trevor James
wrote:
> lean now (<.52V) I'm assuming that I have either a bad
injector
> harness/connection, or a bad injector(s). I installed the new
RC engineering
> injectors about 350 miles before this happened. I used
the metal [snip]
An old list member and friend of mine, Hau Wang,
blew
the bottom end on his 94 RT/TT as a result of a bad
RC
injector.
After his engine blew, he unknowingly sold the set
of
injectors to another old list member, Jeff Wong, who also
subsequently
blew his engine and then unknowingly sold
the set to a friend who nearly blew
the engine on his Eclipse
but suspected the injectors and removed them before
too
much damage was done.
This person sent the nefarious injector set
to RC to get
them flow tested. (BTW, the injectors were
originally
purchased brand new by Hau). RC sent back official
word
that one of the injectors had a "flat spot" and was failling
to
deliver fuel at increased fuel pressures/duty cycles.
RC buys Lucas
injectors, pretty much cuts them open,
and then bores them out for increased
fuel flow, then
reassembles them. Or so I've been told.
That's
why I'm definitely using the Nippon Denso injectors
which are manufactured at
their specific sizes by ND.
They are reportedly much more reliable and are
reported
to start up and idle much better than the RC's.
- --Errin
Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 03:22:53 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Borla
Thanks guys. Did the ATR downpipe make the exhaust sound louder?
What's the
best intake to go with? Does the intake also make a difference in
the sound?
As you can see, I am new to the 3000 scene. Thanks in advance for
your help.
Bill in NY
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 01:25:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Time for a Mod; hood latch-solution?...
- ----- Original Message
----- From: <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
>
How much for... a carbon fiber or custom hood? How much for a
regular
one?
> How much for front bumper?
> One of these will have to be
destroyed to get at the #(*$&(@*#&
latch.
> Any links to good
places to search? I'll also talk to Mitsu for the
stock
> prices, but
since I'll probably be replacing one or the other why
not mod as I
>
go?
I was trying to think of a creative way to get to that latch when
Jeff
asked earlier. I went out back and took a serious look at mine,
and
came up with a couple of ideas...
First: There is a hole
just behind the bumper, _straight through_
from underneath right to the
latch. A straightened coat hanger with a
1/2" hook at the end can get
right up there. Through the hole (if
you're on your back, feet facing
front, head under the hole) you'll
see something that looks like this, past a
couple of 3/8" bolt heads:
\__/
\__/
====|====
The === signs are the latch and the | is the spring end
that pushes it
upward (away from you, seen from below). Get the coat
hook behind the
latch (====) and pull downwards. Now remember, that is
the same latch
that you push with your fingers AFTER the hood release is
popped, but
with gentle pressure on the hood while you pull from the bottom,
it
might defeat the in-dash hood release lock. It's worth a
try... If
it doesn't work, pull down hard and leave downward tension on
it (wrap
it around something solid) while you try the next
idea...
Second: Unbolt that plastic liner at the front of the wheel
well -
with that out of the way, you should be able to clamp the cable with
a
vise-grip or something and give it a tug. If you're lucky, that
could
be all it takes, but I'd have someone pushing _down_ on the hood
with
moderate pressure (push on a 2x4 wrapped in a couple of towels to
even
the pressure?); do this at intervals while you're pulling on
the
cable. The spring loading of the hood against the latch is what
keeps
it in place, so it might make it pop loose. I disagree with the
idea
of suction cups, since that will only make the hood tighter on
the
latch, and probably make releasing it impossible.
BTW, I think the
C/F hoods are around a grand, pre-install, and the
bumper (from Dodge,
anyway) is around $700++ extras for install, etc.
After spending quite some
time playing with it tonight, I don't think
the bumper removal will help,
anyway. I'm sure by now you're ready to
take a sledge to it, so I hope
this helps you guys...
F
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 05:56:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Well
GT-PRO didn't exist at the time (12/97) and I was too
ignorant to know about
JE and this list (if it existed). I had
seen St. Andre's in one of the mags
and purchased through them.
I didn't know who the manufacturer was going to
be - could have
beed Arias, JE, Venolia. I did find Brian LaFuenta (then
as
GT-ALLEY) in 1998, but too late by then for pistons but bought
one of
his custom IC kits. I am not recommending Venolia over
any other
manufacturer, though silicon-free forgings have their
advantages, just
putting info out there for interested persons.
Jeff Lucius
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 18, 2000 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem
& a few questions...
Also, why did you choose these over JE or
GTPro?
> How much did they cost and how long was the wait
Jeff?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Trev
>
> Jeff
Lucius wrote:
>
> > You can read about my Venolia pistons
at
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-venolia.htm
. I
have
> > not had problems with a 0.050" over-bore. I have not
heard
of
> > rod failures either, but lighter is always nicer.
:)
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 06:16:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft
1991-1992 cranks are cast-iron
and not treated. Treated, steel
cranks started in 1993 with the 4-bolt main
bearing caps. So
Chris may be able to repair it or turn a used one. A better
bet
over all would be to replace the block with the newer one.
Some
details are at
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.html
.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Jett" <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
jbasol@Carlson.com>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed,
Crankshaft
gouged...
John,
Our cranks are nitride coated, as is
the case with many high
performance cranks.
Dan J
94 Stealth
TT
K/N, Greddy Exhaust, Aluminum Y-pipe, Centerforce DF clutch,
Magnecore
KVR 8.5's, 18" SSR Integrals w/ Nitto NT555's
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st Subject:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
<snip>
that bad
rod bearing gouged the crankshaft pretty good. Looks
like I need a new
crank.
<snip>
Thanks a bunch gang,
Chris
Maxwell
92 R/T
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 14:31:16 +0100
From: "Martin" <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
3000 GTO stereo
Hi all
Sorry if this subject has been covered already
but I'm new.
I have a 92 GTO and it has the stock stereo in at the moment, I
would like to replace it with a head unit and CD changer, but not sure of the
best location for the changer.
But the main problem is that the original
stereo is about 4/5 inches square and would leave a huge hole when
removed.
Is there some kind of template that I can obtain that will solve the
problem and is the wiring a problem?
I know I will lose the steering wheel
controls but thats not important.
Any help is
appreciated.
Regards
Martin
BTW I had my rotors turned my Mitsubishi
yesterday and new pads put in for the usual problem of juddering on braking and
man what a difference........totally stable now.
So if anyone out there has a
similar problem....get them rotors turned. just my pennies worth.
Regards
Martin Berkley
Technical Support Specialist
Star
Internet
support@star.co.uk
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 06:38:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Hi Geoff,
I asked the same question a while
back (3/20) -- repeated below
- -- with no replies.
Does anyone have
any experience or opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars?
Addco front bar is 1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54%
increase in stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar (for FWD only?) is
0.875"
(stock is 0.86"), for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 12:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Sway bars
Im sure this
has been hashed..but didnt see it in archives.
Sway bars...who has em for
the VR4?
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 07:12:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Time for a Mod; hood latch-solution?...
Its not a cable
issue..the cable is fully attached.
You can hear and feel the cable pull
the release, but the mechanism that
is supposed to spring lose the main
latch..is jammed.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 08:24:58 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Jeff & Geoff;
Sorry, I didn't see Jeff's
first ask of the question.....
I have the ADDCO front sway bar and the
Road Race Engineering rear shock
tower brace on my 92 RT/Turbo....Sorry
Jeff..can't answer questions 1 or
2
(engineers...sheesh...)...#3 I had the sway bar mounted by
Denver Frame &
Aligment when I was having the Eibach's installed..so I
couln't tell you
about installation......You are correct about the ADDCO rear
bar being for
FWD's only...I installed the rear shock tower brace
myself...pretty easy
(there was something about it not working with cars with
moon roofs?)..#4
...as far as my overall impressions.....I really like the
way the car has
stiffen up when cornering...I live in the mountains and just
LOVE the
twisties...understeer/oversteer doesn't SEEM to be more pronouced
and the
car SEEMS to track better through the corners...I would recommend
these
three suspension upgrades to anyone....another Jeff (in AZ) has
installed
the rear shock brace and also really likes
it....
Jeffrey (yet another one)
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth-
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Hi
Geoff,
I asked the same question a while back (3/20) -- repeated
below
- -- with no replies.
Does anyone have any experience or
opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars? Addco front bar is
1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54% increase in
stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar (for FWD only?) is
0.875"
(stock is 0.86"), for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 12:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Sway bars
Im sure this
has been hashed..but didnt see it in archives.
Sway bars...who has em for
the VR4?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 07:53:34 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Sway bars
The issue with the rear strut tower brace on models
equipped with the
detachable moon/sun roof is that the storage brackets for
the glass roof are
spot welded to the shock towers. They have to be
removed in order to mount
the strut tower brace.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Jeff & Geoff;
>
>
Sorry, I didn't see Jeff's first ask of the question.....
>
> I have
the ADDCO front sway bar and the Road Race Engineering rear shock
> tower
brace on my 92 RT/Turbo....Sorry Jeff..can't answer
> questions 1 or
2
> (engineers...sheesh...)...#3 I had the sway bar mounted
by
> Denver Frame &
> Aligment when I was having the Eibach's
installed..so I couln't tell you
> about installation......You are correct
about the ADDCO rear bar being for
> FWD's only...I installed the rear
shock tower brace myself...pretty easy
> (there was something about it not
working with cars with moon roofs?)..#4
> ...as far as my overall
impressions.....I really like the way the car has
> stiffen up when
cornering...I live in the mountains and just LOVE the
>
twisties...understeer/oversteer doesn't SEEM to be more pronouced and
the
> car SEEMS to track better through the corners...I would recommend
these
> three suspension upgrades to anyone....another Jeff (in AZ) has
installed
> the rear shock brace and also really likes
it....
>
>
> Jeffrey (yet another one)
> 92
RT/Turbo
>
www.omega-sw.com/stealth***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 09:37:32 -0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
The Addco rear upper strut brace CAN be installed
on AWD vehicles...The "problem" with the moon roof equipped models is that when
you remove the glass top, there would be no place to put it, since the strut
brace crosses over the mounting location of the glass.
..>>>
"Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> 05/19 7:24
AM >>>
Jeff & Geoff;
>You are correct about the ADDCO
rear bar being for
>FWD's only...I installed the rear shock tower brace
myself...pretty easy
>(there was something about it not working with cars
with moon roofs?)..
Jeffrey (yet another one)
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Hi
Geoff,
I asked the same question a while back (3/20) -- repeated
below
- -- with no replies.
Does anyone have any experience or
opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars? Addco front bar is
1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54% increase in
stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar (for FWD only?) is
0.875"
(stock is 0.86"), for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 12:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Sway bars
Im sure this
has been hashed..but didnt see it in archives.
Sway bars...who has em for
the VR4?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/ ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 19 May 2000 09:38:34 -0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sway bars
The Addco rear upper strut brace CAN be installed
on AWD vehicles...The "problem" with the moon roof equipped models is that when
you remove the glass top, there would be no place to put it, since the strut
brace crosses over the mounting location of the glass.
Dan J
94
Stealth Turbo
..>>> "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> 05/19 7:24
AM >>>
Jeff & Geoff;
>You are correct about the ADDCO
rear bar being for
>FWD's only...I installed the rear shock tower brace
myself...pretty easy
>(there was something about it not working with cars
with moon roofs?)..
Jeffrey (yet another one)
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Lucius
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway bars
Hi
Geoff,
I asked the same question a while back (3/20) -- repeated
below
- -- with no replies.
Does anyone have any experience or
opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars? Addco front bar is
1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54% increase in
stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar (for FWD only?) is
0.875"
(stock is 0.86"), for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1)
understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar
may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear
bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the
stronger front bar?
2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with
stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs
and bars?
3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the
other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount
the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar
stiffness.
4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences
with
this add-on?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Jeff
Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 19, 2000 12:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Sway bars
Im sure this
has been hashed..but didnt see it in archives.
Sway bars...who has em for
the VR4?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#141
*********************