team3s
Thursday, May 18
2000
Volume 01 : Number
140
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 22:20:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water Injection mounting..and turbo upgrade.
Well, as soon as I
get the HOOD OPEN again, I only have left to replace
the washer bottle and
tap into the Y-pipe...so thanks for the
install
suggestions.
Second..upgraded turbos feel very very very
nice. Even better since
yesterday I adjusted the main cat for
'alternative emissions standards'.
*chuckle*.
Is there anyone in the
SF Bay Area who has done the pre-cats..who can
assist with the proper
tools? Im just not prepared for that myself.
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---
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 23:14:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno results
Well, its not a 3S, but its still mine.
I
pounded out a 168Hp reading on the rollers last weekend in the
Celica
GT-S.
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/c2k/dyno1.jpgif
anyone is interested.
What N/A numbers do the 3s's get?
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virus, didnt you.
(This is a self based test, did you pass?
Replies to
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-
---
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 03:09:05 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Borla
exhaust
Hi guys, after purchasing my VR-4 i'm gonna have about a 1,000
bucks to fool
around with some mods. I want to take advantage of carparts
25% discount
which can get me the system to my door for $470.00. I don't
want to get crazy
at this stage in the game but I wanted to ask a couple of
questions. Does the
Borla cat-back exhaust come out as a twin dual system
like stock, or is it
single? Also, is there any special instructions for
installing it regarding
the Active exhaust? From what I heard the Borla has
a nice aggressive sound
to it. Please give me your feedback on your favorite
pick on an exhaust
system. Thanks.
Bill in
NY
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 06:13:21 -0400
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake recommendations?
At 03:51 PM 5/15/00 -0500, Merritt wrote:
>
Should
>>I replace all 4 rotors,
>
>No--just take off the
front rotors, get them trued up and put them back on.
>Replace them only
if they can't be cut down any more. Stock rotors work great.
>
>You
didn't say what year you have. If it's a 93 or earlier, you
should
>upgrade to 94+ calipers and rotors. If you can't do this easily
(e.g.,
>cheaply), you can probably jump directly to Big Reds for the same
price.
>
Do the stock 17" 1st gen rims (chromies, not that it
matters) need to be
changed out in order for the 2nd gen brake upgrade to
work? I can get the
2nd Gen calipers for about 100 each and then the
porterfield cryo treated
rotors are about 140 each. Sounds like a
fairly cheap brake upgrade to me.
But will my stock wheels still
fit? I have plans for 18"s but I'm still
too cheap to purchase any
right now :).
What are the differences between 1st and 2nd gen
brakes? Caliper size and
rotor size?
TIA.
Mark
'93 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 07:22:38 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Fw: [mn3s]
Re: Team3S: Borla exhaust
Bill,
the Borla has single
tips. You can see a picture of it at
http://www.mn3s.org/ ==> Modifications ==>
Exhaust. It is pretty loud.
Those cans in the back are resonators, not
mufflers. The sound is nice,
definitely beats the stock. Any
aftermarket exhaust eliminates the active
exhaust. This is no loss to
you though - the active exhaust is just a
gimmick.
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <
Screemo@aol.com>
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 2:09 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Borla
exhaust
>
>
> > Hi guys, after purchasing my VR-4 i'm gonna
have about a 1,000 bucks to
> fool
> > around with some mods. I
want to take advantage of carparts 25% discount
> > which can get me
the system to my door for $470.00. I don't want to get
> crazy
>
> at this stage in the game but I wanted to ask a couple of
questions.
Does
> the
> > Borla cat-back exhaust come out as a
twin dual system like stock, or is
it
> > single? Also, is there any
special instructions for installing it
> regarding
> > the Active
exhaust? From what I heard the Borla has a nice aggressive
> sound
>
> to it. Please give me your feedback on your favorite pick on an
exhaust
> > system. Thanks.
> >
> >
> > Bill
in NY
> >
> >
> >
> > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Remember four years of good friends, bad clothes, explosive chemistry
>
experiments.
>
http://click.egroups.com/1/4051/3/_/652661/_/958652597/>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Post message:
mn3s@egroups.com>
http://www.egroups.com/community/mn3s>
CarParts page:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 07:33:52 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Forgive my bad memory if
I'm wrong, but I remember something about a coating
on the surface of the
journals being the reason we cannot grind the crank,
but I cannot recall for
certain. Far be it for me to dispute Mitsu
engineering, but many a long
lasting motor have cast iron (or forged) crank
journals riding on tri-metal
bearings with only motor oil as a coating. Is
there something different
about the way the crank is made in our cars?
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com [
SMTP:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 5:55 PM
To:
shmacker@home.com;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Check all the other
rod and main bearing surfaces..you may be
OK..ive rebuilt a
handful of
Supra motors that suffered the same thing..and a crank
&
rod
replacement fixed em nicely.
The only exceptions is where
the owner wondered about that funny
tapping..for
weeks and destroyed lots
of other things too..but the bottom end
bearings will
be first to
go.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Hey
guys,
Well, I've figured out that the tapping noises weren't
carbon
buildup
afterall...no, it was a VERY worn rod bearing. When I
took the oil
pan off,
I felt the rods and one of them was loose enough to
shake about 1/4
inch. I
took off all the pistons it looks like that
bad rod bearing gouged
the
crankshaft pretty good. Looks like I need
a new crank.
Should I go to the trouble of taking out the crank and
putting in a
new one
(probably from MS Recycling) or get a new bottem end
of an engine
(probably
from MS Recycling again). I noticed to take
the crank off, the
transmission
needs to come off.
ugh.
Thanks a bunch gang,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (still waiting
for the GT-PRO 355 turbos that probably
won't be
used for awhile at this
rate...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 08:44:48 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Borla exhaust
Bill said:
>> I want to take advantage
of carparts 25% discount which can get me
>> the system to my door for
$470.00.
That's a really good price on it... Usually they are more
on the $700-750 range from the usual sources.
>> Does the Borla
cat-back exhaust come out as a twin dual system like
>> stock, or is it
single? Also, is there any special instructions for
>> installing it
regarding the Active exhaust? From what I heard the
>> Borla has a nice
aggressive sound to it.
It is similar to the stock setup, but the pipe
routing is a lot more straight than the stock system. It splits at a "Y"
by the rear differential, instead of going into a primary muffler and then
crossing over to a second. Much more efficient with the Borla.
Active Exhaust goes bye-bye with any aftermarket cat-back system. Its no
loss though, as it is more of a restriction in the exhaust than anything
else.
Oskar said:
> the Borla has single tips. You can
see a picture of it at
>
http://www.mn3s.org/ ==> Modifications ==>
Exhaust. It is pretty loud.
There's a picture of it on my car
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/members/matt1.jpgIt
doesn't show the exhaust very well, however you can see that they are single
large chrome tips instead of the factory dual-tip setup. Oskar is correct
that it is rather loud, however it isn't nasty-loud, just more of a low-pitched
rumble loud.
It is no aftermarket Honda exhaust, I'll tell you that
much!
If you still have all the cats in place, the sound is fairly
quiet. I "cleaned" the front cats and have a high-flow main cat installed
and it is very livable, and sounds very "tough". :-) I understand
that with no cats it is pretty loud though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 07:10:20 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Borla exhaust
Actually, Jeg's has been selling the Borla exhaust for the
VR4 for at
$470-ish for a number of years.
As to the Borla being loud,
I guess it is relative. It really isn't that
bad at all IMO, but I also
run a stock cat. Maybe it gets louder without
the cat. Other cars
are far more obnoxious at least in my area (Phoenix).
You do tend to get a
droning at (legal) freeway cruising speeds which is
kind of
annoying.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Bill said:
>
> >> I want to take
advantage of carparts 25% discount which can get me
> >> the system
to my door for $470.00.
>
> That's a really good price on
it... Usually they are more on the
> $700-750 range from the usual
sources.
>
> >> Does the Borla cat-back exhaust come out as a
twin dual system like
> >> stock, or is it single? Also, is there
any special instructions for
> >> installing it regarding the Active
exhaust? From what I heard the
> >> Borla has a nice aggressive
sound to it.
>
> It is similar to the stock setup, but the pipe
routing is a lot
> more straight than the stock system. It splits at
a "Y" by the
> rear differential, instead of going into a primary muffler
and
> then crossing over to a second. Much more efficient with
the
> Borla. Active Exhaust goes bye-bye with any aftermarket
cat-back
> system. Its no loss though, as it is more of a
restriction in
> the exhaust than anything else.
>
> Oskar
said:
>
> > the Borla has single tips. You can see a
picture of it at
> >
http://www.mn3s.org/ ==> Modifications ==>
Exhaust. It is pretty loud.
>
> There's a picture of it on my
car at:
>
>
http://www.mn3s.org/members/matt1.jpg>
>
It doesn't show the exhaust very well, however you can see that
> they are
single large chrome tips instead of the factory dual-tip
> setup.
Oskar is correct that it is rather loud, however it isn't
> nasty-loud,
just more of a low-pitched rumble loud.
>
> It is no aftermarket
Honda exhaust, I'll tell you that much!
>
> If you still have all
the cats in place, the sound is fairly
> quiet. I "cleaned" the
front cats and have a high-flow main cat
> installed and it is very
livable, and sounds very "tough". :-)
> I understand that with no
cats it is pretty loud though.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 07:16:21 -0700
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
John,
Our
cranks are nitride coated, as is the case with many high performance cranks.
Dan J
94 Stealth TT
K/N, Greddy Exhaust, Aluminum Y-pipe,
Centerforce DF clutch, Magnecore KVR 8.5's, 18" SSR Integrals w/ Nitto
NT555's
>>> "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com> - 5/18/00 5:33 AM
>>>
Forgive my bad memory if I'm wrong, but I remember something
about a coating
on the surface of the journals being the reason we cannot
grind the crank,
but I cannot recall for certain. Far be it for me to
dispute Mitsu
engineering, but many a long lasting motor have cast iron (or
forged) crank
journals riding on tri-metal bearings with only motor oil as a
coating. Is
there something different about the way the crank is made
in our cars?
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com [
SMTP:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 5:55 PM
To:
shmacker@home.com;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Check all the
other rod and main bearing surfaces..you may be
OK..ive rebuilt
a
handful of Supra motors that suffered the same thing..and a crank
&
rod
replacement fixed em nicely.
The only
exceptions is where the owner wondered about that
funny
tapping..for
weeks and destroyed lots of other things too..but
the bottom end
bearings will
be first to
go.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st Subject:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Hey
guys,
Well, I've figured out that the tapping noises weren't
carbon
buildup
afterall...no, it was a VERY worn rod bearing.
When I took the oil
pan off,
I felt the rods and one of them was
loose enough to shake about 1/4
inch. I
took off all the
pistons it looks like that bad rod bearing gouged
the
crankshaft
pretty good. Looks like I need a new crank.
Should I go to
the trouble of taking out the crank and putting in a
new
one
(probably from MS Recycling) or get a new bottem end of an
engine
(probably
from MS Recycling again). I noticed to take
the crank off, the
transmission
needs to come off.
ugh.
Thanks a bunch gang,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT
(still waiting for the GT-PRO 355 turbos that probably
won't be
used
for awhile at this rate...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 09:53:44
-0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Well guys I looked at the
pistons a little harder with the borescope and the
pistons at the bottom of
the bore. Both of the cylinders that had the messed up
plugs (back middle and
passenger side) have a chunk taken out of the edge of the
top of the piston.
Roger G and Jack T both recommended that a piece of
piston/valve would be the
only thing to close the plug gap up. I did a
compression test and all the
cylinders read roughly 140 psi except the back
middle one which was 109 psi.
Not good. Since the back bank is running really
lean now (<.52V) I'm
assuming that I have either a bad injector
harness/connection, or a bad
injector(s). I installed the new RC engineering
injectors about 350 miles
before this happened. I used the metal retaining clips
and I was REALLY nice
to the harness when I was handling it since I assumed it
may have been
brittle. I still haven't put it back together yet but I'm going to
swap the
front and rear bank injectors just for troubleshooting.
So what are you
ideas on forged pistons? I was thinking JE Pistons & Total Seal
Rings.
Those seem to be our best bet. Do you think I should get it bored .30
over to
up the displacement? Anyone heard of any problems with this? Do you
think I
should replace the rods? I'm thinking no since I really haven't heard
many
stories involving bent rods on our cars. There's really no way to
swap
pistons while the block is still in the car, right? I'm thinking no
since you
have to hone the cylinders and the shavings will get on the
crankshaft AND you
have to balance the rotating assembly which is impossible
while on the car. Last
question, anyone know of any shops in KS, OK, or
northern TX that have done a
rebuild on a 3KGT/Stealth within the last year?
I heard that alamo motorsports
is good but they're
expensive.
Trevor
What's up guys? I've got a few questions
about an engine problem I've been
having. Here's a list of my mods before I
even start.
http://www.linkline.com/personal/amahoser/trevor.htmlWent
out looking for races the other day. Checked the air fuel ratio and it
was
good (.94-.96V), EGT's stayed under 1630F on a quarter mile run, and
boost was
set at 14.9 psi. My EVC IV was set to drop the boost down to 6.7
psi if it went
over 16 psi. All was well.
While racing a Z28 on a third
gear punch I steadily lost power from 6000-6800
rpm
when I backed out it.
The engine died and I coasted off of a highway exit. There
it wouldn't
start for what seemed like an eternity. It finally turned over and
was
belching dark grey smoke (flooded) for a few seconds. Then it idled
like
crap
and I babied it less than a mile to home. I put the scantool on
it and no matter
how rich i turned up the ARC the back bank of cylinders
O2 would not go over
.52V. The computer was constantly trying to richen up
the back bank also. The
front would max out to a full 1.0V. Weird.
Ripped
it apart and checked the plugs. The front bank of three were fine but
the
rear middle and passenger side plug electrodes had been crushed until
it touched
the center electrode. IE no gap! Has anyone ever seen this?
I've regapped the
plugs twice and I know with one of the plugs I had squished
it past .032" and
had
to open it back up slightly. Sounds far fetched but
do you think I may have
weakened the metal and the heat caused it to close
up? I don't think there's any
way the piston top could have come in
contact with the plug without messing up
some valves. I wonder if I may have
burned up a coil or two. I used a borescope
to look at the insides of the
cylinders and the tops of the pistons. It looks
good. All the valves seem to
be closing just fine, no bent ones. The tops of the
pistons don't have
any holes or nicks in them from coming in contact with
anything.
I checked
out the timing belt and tensioner and they look just fine. The belt
feels
pretty tight and looks great. After all the car has only 26K miles on
it.
With the crank pulley's reference mark @ TDC the front intake cam's
reference
mark is at roughly 4 o'clock where the front exhaust cam's at 8
o'clock. The
back
is the opposite (intake at 8 and exhaust at 4). I
thought the cams were supposed
to line up with the triangle and square on
the drivers side of the valve
covers?!? I'm using the dimples on the sides of
the cam sprockets as reference
marks.
Next plan of action is to do a
compression test. What's the minimum compression
I
should see? I'm also
going to swap the front and rear injectors to see if the
lean bank condition
follows.
Any input would be appreciated guys...
Trevor
PS I
beat the Z28...he backed out of it after I put a quick 3 carlengths on
him.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 10:21:05 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Borla exhaust
Actually, Jeg's stopped selling it for that
price awhile ago. I've read
many posts from other lists alluding to
that.
But you can get the Borla TT exhaust from CarParts for about $455
plus
shipping. Just go to my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
and scroll down and follow the directions
for the 25% off links. Its a
heck of a buy.
later,
Curt
p.s. The Upper Midwest
Gathering is this weekend in Wisconsin Dells.
Details:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
"Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
>To: "Team3S" <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Borla exhaust
>Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 07:10:20
-0700
>
>Actually, Jeg's has been selling the Borla exhaust for the
VR4 for at
>$470-ish for a number of
years.
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 09:15:22 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno results
- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff
Mohler"
<
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>>
Well, its not a 3S, but its still mine.
> I pounded out a 168Hp reading on
the rollers last weekend in the
Celica
> GT-S.
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~gemohler/c2k/dyno1.jpg>
if anyone is interested.
> What N/A numbers do the 3s's get?
1994
Base Stealth:
164 HP for Stock (D)
170 HP for Stock, no Resonator,
K&N FIPK (D)
175 HP for no Res., Tiny K&N, eRAM (D*)
187 HP for no
Res., K&N FIPK, Intake Mod., Super eRAM (**)
(D) = Actual Dyno
Numbers
(*) = Lousy temporary install at extreme power-robbing angle; read
all
about it on the FAQ page on the eRAM test...
(**) =
Estimated
Wanna run? :-) You and I would have a race, since
the GT-S only
weighs about 4 pounds... Against an R/T or 3K base, you
wouldn't even
be a breakfast snack.
<g>
F
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 14:04:36 EDT
From:
Playenfun@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Can
anyone help me with a problem concerning a power
antenna?
Hi, i posted a message a few weeks ago,
asking if it was easy to replace the mast only, because i could hear the motor
running. I did what i was told, i unscrewed the retaing nut, and had
someone turn on the radio while i pulled the antenna out. Well the antenna
came up, but it didn't come out, so i couldn't replace it. While the antenna was
up, i turned off the radio, and i couldn't hear the motor anymore. I checked the
fuses and they were fine, later on the antenna went down, and i thought it was
fixed, but then when i turned on the radio back on nothing happened.
Can anyone help? Thank you
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 11:23:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
1991-1992 cranks
are cast-iron and not treated. Treated, steel
cranks started in 1993 with the
4-bolt main bearing caps. So
Chris may be able to repair it or turn a used
one. A better bet
over all would be to replace the block with the newer one.
Some
details are at
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006035.html
.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Jett" <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To:
<
jbasol@Carlson.com>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed,
Crankshaft
gouged...
John,
Our cranks are nitride coated,
as is the case with many high
performance cranks.
Dan J
94 Stealth
TT
K/N, Greddy Exhaust, Aluminum Y-pipe, Centerforce DF clutch,
Magnecore
KVR 8.5's, 18" SSR Integrals w/ Nitto NT555's
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st Subject:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
<snip>
that bad
rod bearing gouged the crankshaft pretty good. Looks
like I need a new
crank.
<snip>
Thanks a bunch gang,
Chris
Maxwell
92 R/T
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 11:35:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
You can read about
my Venolia pistons at
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-venolia.htm
. I have
not had problems with a 0.050" over-bore. I have not heard of
rod
failures either, but lighter is always nicer. :)
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
To: <
stealth@starnet.net>; <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a
few questions...
So what are you ideas on forged pistons? I was thinking
JE
Pistons & Total Seal Rings. Those seem to be our best bet. Do
you
think I should get it bored .30 over to up the displacement?
Anyone heard of
any problems with this? Do you think I should
replace the rods? I'm thinking
no since I really haven't heard
many stories involving bent rods on our cars.
Trevor
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 14:04:25 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
How much did they
cost and how long was the wait Jeff?
Thanks!
Trev
Jeff
Lucius wrote:
> You can read about my Venolia pistons at
>
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-venolia.htm
. I have
> not had problems with a 0.050" over-bore. I have not heard
of
> rod failures either, but lighter is always nicer. :)
>
>
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
>
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
> To: <
stealth@starnet.net>; <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
>
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2000 8:53 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Re: A engine
problem & a few questions...
>
> So what are you ideas on forged
pistons? I was thinking JE
> Pistons & Total Seal Rings. Those seem to
be our best bet. Do
> you think I should get it bored .30 over to up the
displacement?
> Anyone heard of any problems with this? Do you think I
should
> replace the rods? I'm thinking no since I really haven't
heard
> many stories involving bent rods on our cars.
>
>
Trevor
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
http://im.yahoo.com/>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 12:11:07 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Also, why did
you choose these over JE or GTPro?
> How much did they cost and how
long was the wait Jeff?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Trev
>
> Jeff Lucius wrote:
>
> > You can read about my Venolia
pistons at
> >
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/2-venolia.htm
. I have
> > not had problems with a 0.050" over-bore. I have not heard
of
> > rod failures either, but lighter is always nicer.
:)
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 12:28:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Back in
December 1997 I didn't know a lot about these cars. I
ordered them through
St. Andre's Automotive (don't know if Eric
still handles these cars). The
wait was maybe 2-3 months? I
imagine that since Venolia has made these
before, they could
fill the order faster. Total cost was just under $1000
which
included moly rings and shipping. My builder said the pistons
were
works of art and they all nearly weighed the same. Eric St.
Andre said that
they have bored out to 0.060" over, so I figure
the block is good for one
more rebuild (heaven forbid!).
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Trevor James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
To: "Jeff Lucius"
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Cc:
<
stealth@starnet.net>; <
stealth@stls.verio.net>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, May 18, 2000 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: A engine problem
& a few questions...
How much did they cost and how long was the wait
Jeff?
Thanks!
Trev
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 14:00:17 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Dyno results
Wanna run? :-) You and I would have a
race, since the GT-S only
weighs about 4 pounds... Against an R/T or 3K
base, you wouldn't even
be a breakfast snack. <g>
- ---
You
gotta be kidding me, your car weighs like..about 2 Celica GT-S's *heh*
If
we race..I promise to save a beer for ya while im waitin at the far
end.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 23:20:14 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: A engine problem & a few questions...
Trevor, bad to hear
about the damage.
> middle one which was 109 psi. Not good. Since the
back bank is running
really
> lean now (<.52V) I'm assuming that I
have either a bad injector
> harness/connection, or a bad
injector(s).
Mine was even worse with only about 70psi or so (gulp). But
you have a
datalogger, right ? If you go into DRB mode there is a map wuth
the 6
injectors available. Just let it idle and switch off the injectors form
1 to
6. On each one idle feels crappy then or at least you will notice
a
difference. You'll find the problem on the one where no change in idle
is
noticeable. As the rear middle one is shot anyways (the same where
the
problem was at its worst level on my car) you may feel only a small if
any
difference when ideling.
> I installed the new RC engineering
injectors about 350 miles before this
happened. I used the metal retaining
clips
What RC injectors where these ? Look at the RC balance sheet you
got with
them and on the bottom the manufactirer is noted. My 710cc are Bosch
type
and the retainer clip does not work !
> So what are you ideas
on forged pistons? I was thinking JE Pistons & Total
Seal
> Rings.
Those seem to be our best bet. Do you think I should get it bored
.30
>
over to up the displacement? Anyone heard of any problems with this?
The
problem with a rebuilt engine is that you shoould let do the bores
and
pistons in the same shop otherwise you have too large tolerance. You
can
overbore it but don't go above 3.1 litre !
> Do you think I
should replace the rods?
No, not necessary, although lighter ones would
be nice, hehe.
> There's really no way to swap pistons while the block
is still in the car,
right?
Not true. My mechanic did this with the
engine in the car. The heads and
turbos where off of course but they pulled
them together. Then they removed
the oil pan and transfer case and went
through the bottom to the pistons.
Don't ask me more details as I came back
to the mechanic just before the
turbos went back in .
> I'm
thinking no since you have to hone the cylinders and the shavings will
get
on
> the crankshaft AND you have to balance the rotating assembly which
is
> impossible while on the car.
We didn't touch the crankshaft
nor the rods. Only new pistons (unfortunately
original ones), ring and pins.
They honed the cyls in the car.
Good luck ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 May 2000 23:51:19 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: I
hate it, I just hate it (heads,turbos,etc)
Sorry for the words but today
I started to remove the heads and turbos for
the upgrades I have ready. Well
the job seems not to hard but oh my good,
why are the nuts and bolts so
heavily seized ? I really underestimated the
amount of work until I can move
the heads. Water lines, oil lines, water
pump, and, and, and.
For the
front, I was lucky not to remove the alternator nor to lift the
radiator. But
the front turbo mount is so damn crazy to get on. No chance
for no tool ! I'm
trying to remove the turbo/head assembly with the stay
(bracket) on the turbo
from under the car. I guess the rear will be much
harder...
Also the
rear water connection to the turbo is extremely seized and I just
don't hope
to stripe it like I already did with one of the thre bolts that
hold the
turbo to the manifold. Well, since I will install the GT368s
turbos, this
doesn't create too much headache ;-) But I need some new bolts
for sure as
they now look bad. Just the two simple bolts from the water pump
to the front
head took me an hour to get them off. I think I will buy
another gallon of
WD-40.
BTW, such a modification process is a good chance to clean
everything up,
brush the stuff, polish it, paint it or let some aluminum
parts get
anodized. But as usual, there is not a lot time available and I
hope to
finish everything by the end of next week.... if I don't run into a
stupid
problem !
Roger
93'3000GT TT (big hp
ahead)
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #140
*********************
