team3s
Wednesday, May 17
2000
Volume 01 : Number
139
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 19:57:40 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
A engine problem & a few questions...
Trevor James wrote:
>
races other day; air fuel ratio .94-.96V, EGT under 1630F quarter mile,
boost
> 14.9 psi. racing Z28 on third gear steadily lost power from
6000-6800 rpm
> when I backed out. engine died, wouldn't start for
eternity. It finally turned
> over,
> belching dark grey smoke
(flooded) for seconds. idled like crap,
> babied a mile to home.
scantool: no matter how rich ARC, back bank O2 wouldn't go
>
over
> .52V. computer constantly trying to richen back bank.
> front
would max out 1.0V. plugs: front bank fine
> rear middle/passenger
electrodes crushed until it touched
> center electrode. any
way piston could contact plug without messing up
> valves?
If
you have crushed the strap to the center electrode, it was HIT by a
solid
object and forced that way. Piston will NOT EVER do that,
unless it is
broken and piece got up there, or foreign object pushed up
there by
piston. Valves will NOT EVER
do that, unless a piece of valve broke off
and got smashed into it
by the piston rising. Do the plugs have all the
ceramic surrounding
the center electrode intact, or is the ceramic
broken/chipped off?
Detonation can cause cracked ceramic on plugs. I
would say
something got ingested via intake tract (loose bolt or solid
something);
or piston is broken and you didn't see it with
borescope.
> I used borescope
> to look at inside
cylinders/pistons. It looks
> good. All valves seem closing fine, no bent
ones.
> pistons don't have holes/nicks in them.
> checked timing
belt/tensioner = fine. After all the car has only 26K miles on it.
> With
the crank pulley's reference mark @ TDC the front intake cam's reference
>
mark is at roughly 4 o'clock where the front exhaust cam's at 8 o'clock. The
back
> is the opposite (intake at 8 and exhaust at 4). I thought the cams
were supposed
> to line up with the triangle and square on the drivers
side of the valve
> covers?!? I'm using the dimples on the sides of the
cam sprockets as reference
> marks.
Line up the crank at
TDC....cylinder #1 IN FIRING POSITION (not 360
degrees OFF, when it is
finishing its EXHAUST stroke on this "4 stroke"
engine!)
With cyl #1 at
TDC firing, the indentations on the BACK SIDE of the
camgears will line up
with the VALVECOVER MARKS (the triagular,
and the rectangular marks) on all 4
camgears.
The little dimples on the FRONT FACES of the camgears will
be
on the inner aspects of the front two, and the inner aspects of
the
back two camgears, at about the 2:00 and 10:00 positions
approx,
facing each other, at the same time as the valvecover
marks
mentioned above.
> Next plan of action is to do a compression
test.
Something hit that poor plug. Nothing NATURAL
would do
that! Usu. racing, you cracked the stock
cast piston, maybe a piece of
broken ring.
Let us know how it turns out...
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 19:48:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood release!!
Nope..its not a hood that wont come up when
you pull the release..the end
of the cable sounds to NO longer be attached TO
the release...ergo the
hood is locked tight short of a major wreck
*heh*.
- ---
Spoken to me on the net recently:
"You're
obviously psychotic. Goodbye."
Actually, this was the first
sensible statement the person has actually made. YMMV.
- ---
On
Tue, 16 May 2000, cody wrote:
> You won't get the bumper off without
removing the hood first... Have
> someone attempt to pull upon the
hood while you pull the latch... Maybe a
> big suction cup would
work...
>
> -Cody
>
>
> #Ah hell..
>
#
> #Hood release has stopped working. Worked good last night,
this
> #AM..no go up.
> #
> #
> #Cable seems intact, I
can hear it under the hood up front, but its
> #not engaging
> #the
latch.
> #
> #What short of removing the bumper..do I do
now?
> #
> #***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
#
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 May 1999 12:11:04 +0100
From: "Martin" <
martin@star.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo timers and insurance companys
Hi all
Here in the UK our
insurance companies insist that we have a category 1 Thatcham approved alarm
fitted to the car before they will insure you.
The problem I have is that in
order for it to be Thatcham approved, it has to be fitted with an immobiliser
that will shut the car down within 30 seconds of the key being turned to the off
position.
The problem is I have a turbo timer fitted that monitors the
turbo's and increases the turn off time according to how hard the turbo's have
been working.
So if the immobiliser cuts the engine off after 30 seconds then
that makes the turbo timer totally useless.
The only way round this that I
can see is to sit in the car for 2 to 3 mins and then switch the car off which
makes the turbo timer redundant.
It is so annoying, (damn insurance
companies)
Anyway, the whole point to this email is to see if there is anyone
out there that has come across this problem and has got round it.
Thanks in
advance
Regards
Martin Berkley
Technical Support Specialist
Star
Internet
______________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 10:07:12 -0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Supra pump install
Hi Jack,
Denso must have
changed their pump slightly from '91, or Mitsu used
different plastic sleeves
in later years, because the pumps are a little
different on the output
end. There is a plastic plate with the denso number
that is different
on the supra pump. This plastic plate fits closer to the
output nipple
and that keeps my plastic sleeve from sliding down flush to
the pump.
What I did was to grind part of the bottom of the sleeve off so
it would not
hit the plastic plate and then the other side would fit flush
on the
pump. I then could slide the o-ring on and the plastic cap.
The
plastic pieces are used to keep the o-ring in place when inserting
or
removing the pump from the fuel line "pipe" that leaves the tank.
I
also loosened the other end of the fuel line that I was having
problems
with(easier to get to than I thought) and that greatly simplified
the
installation of the hose on the pump end (the fitting on the hard pipe
that
goes to the fuel filter spins free).
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
From: "xwing" <
xwing@execpc.com>
> >The manual
says
> > have to take the other end of hose off first. Is
this
> > necessary?
>
> Yes. You go under car, on
front/toward upper aspect of the fuel tank are
> two lines, one is the
fuel line you see attached to the pump's hardline
fitting.
>
>
Loosen it, need not REMOVE it because once loose, THAT LOWER END
> spins
so upper end can spin off.
> > 2: When I removed stock
pump. The top with the nipple, has two plastic
> > pieces with a
o-ring in the middle. I removed these and put them on the
new
>
> supra pump. The bottom plastic piece doesn't fit flush to the pump
and
> > therefore the o-ring and top plastic piece don't fit
properly. I'm
guessing
> > that I have to go back to Toyota to
buy the pieces that fit this pump??
>
> Is exactly same pump
dimenstions so you are not doing it right. Should
> go on EXACTLY
like it was on stock pump.
> Jack Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 09:08:50 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Screeching on Engine startup
Hi guys,
Trying to diagnose a
problem in a '96 NA DOHC engine. Upon startup
there's an abnormal
screeching noise coming from the engine bay. It does
this for a couple
of revolutions starting right about the time I'd expect
the starter to be
disengaging (engine turning over on its own). It lasts
for a few (2-5)
revolutions, and then goes away. Other than that, the car
sounds
completely normal and performs normally.
When I first heard the noise,
then hood was shut, and I was about 20
yds. away. I thought it was a
belt slipping. After I popped the hood and
had my friend start the car
again, I stared at the belts and I didn't see
one slipping, and the
noise seemed to be coming from the front bank
somewhere under the valve
cover. It never makes this noise except for a
second or two upon
startup.
Any ideas? Is the starter not disengaging when it should be?
It
almost sounds like a metal grating noise rather than a belt slipping
noise,
as I listened to it a second time.
Thanks!
-
--Erik
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 11:11:21 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Screeching on Engine startup
I have had the exact smae problem
for over a year. It's just a pain in the
butt. In my case it is
the starter not disengaging the gear from the
flywheel. What I did some
time ago was to take the starter off and
thoroughly clean and lubricate the
gear that pulls back, and it fixed it for
about aweek, and the problem has
been back since... It's not worth it to
try and fix it... One day
i figure I will need a new starter, but I can
live with this for now. I
also notice that it isn't half as bad when warm
as compared to when
cold.
- -Cody
#Hi guys,
# Trying to diagnose a problem in a
'96 NA DOHC engine. Upon startup
#there's an abnormal screeching
noise coming from the engine bay. It does
#this for a couple of
revolutions starting right about the time I'd expect
#the starter to be
disengaging (engine turning over on its own). It lasts
#for a few (2-5)
revolutions, and then goes away. Other than that, the car
#sounds
completely normal and performs normally.
# When I first heard the noise, then
hood was shut, and I was about 20
#yds. away. I thought it was a belt
slipping. After I popped the hood and
#had my friend start the car
again, I stared at the belts and I didn't see
#one slipping, and the
noise seemed to be coming from the front bank
#somewhere under the valve
cover. It never makes this noise except for a
#second or two upon
startup.
# Any ideas? Is the starter not disengaging when it should be?
It
#almost sounds like a metal grating noise rather than a belt slipping
noise,
#as I listened to it a second
time.
#
#T#
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 12:52:18 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Screeching on Engine startup
consider the possibility of the
A/C compressor clutch not fully
engaging/disengaging.. mine currently
does this and is sounds
awful at times.. try cycling your A/C on/off a
couple times and
see if it makes a difference.. if it is the problem,
the compressor
needs to be pulled to re-shim the clutch
position..
probably not the problem, but food for thought
anyway..
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
-
--------
+> I have had the exact smae problem for over a year.
It's just a pain in the
+> butt. In my case it is the starter not
disengaging the gear from the
+> flywheel. What I did some time ago
was to take the starter off and
+> thoroughly clean and lubricate the gear
that pulls back, and it fixed it for
+> about aweek, and the problem has
been back since... It's not worth it to
+> try and fix it...
One day i figure I will need a new starter, but I can
+> live with this
for now. I also notice that it isn't half as bad when warm
+> as
compared to when cold.
+>
+> -Cody
+>
+>
+> #Hi
guys,
+> # Trying to diagnose a problem in a '96 NA DOHC
engine. Upon startup
+> #there's an abnormal screeching noise
coming from the engine bay. It does
+> #this for a couple of
revolutions starting right about the time I'd expect
+> #the starter to be
disengaging (engine turning over on its own). It lasts
+> #for a few
(2-5) revolutions, and then goes away. Other than that, the car
+>
#sounds completely normal and performs normally.
+> # When I first heard
the noise, then hood was shut, and I was about 20
+> #yds. away. I
thought it was a belt slipping. After I popped the hood and
+> #had
my friend start the car again, I stared at the belts and I didn't
see
+> #one slipping, and the noise seemed to be coming from the front
bank
+> #somewhere under the valve cover. It never makes this
noise except for a
+> #second or two upon startup.
+> # Any
ideas? Is the starter not disengaging when it should be? It
+>
#almost sounds like a metal grating noise rather than a belt slipping
noise,
+> #as I listened to it a second time.
+> #
+>
#T#
+>
+>
+> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 15:47:01 -0400
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pearl Yellow 94 R/T TT for sale
I have been debating back and
forth on whether or not to put the car on the
market, but as it turns out I
will be purchasing a new car next month and
do *not* want to trade this car
in. I cannot see trading a car in when it
is in as good of condition
as mine. I know the dealer will try to rape me
on the trade in value
and I would like to see this car go to a good home.
It has black leather
interior, power driver seat, dual air bags, climate
control A/C (digital),
removable moonroof, Factory Infinity sound system
with 6 disc (factory)
Mitsu changer, the factory-Infinity-amp is under the
pass seat. Power
windows, locks, mirrors, brakes, steering, etc..
Here are some of the
factory specs:
AWD (all wheel drive)
AWS (all wheel steering)
ECS
(electronically controlled suspension)
Active Exhaust
4 wheel
ABS
Larger diameter calipers and vented rotors (94+)
17" chrome wheels
(say "Dodge" in the center)
6 speed Getrag trans - new - this was replaced by
Chrysler about 11 months ago
320hp twin turbo 3.0L engine
Here
are the mods:
K&N Filter - (have stock filter and housing)
13g
turbos (have a BRAND NEW SET of factory turbos IN THE BOX that go with
the
car)
AMS intercoolers (high efficiency) and hard pipe kit (have factory
intercoolers and piping)
550cc Denso injectors
Greddy Profec B boost
controller-cockpit adjustable
Apexi AFC fuel controller-cockpit
adjustable
HKS exhaust
ATR downpipe (have factory downpipe)
pre-cats
gutted
Main cat replaced by 3" flex section
Magnecore wires
New
Mitsu-denso-plugs gapped to .032
The car has won a Gold Metal the past
three years at the Florida Mopar
Nationals. It is in excellent
condition.
Here are the items that have been replaced since I have had
it:
New clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, and flywheel. New
6 speed
trans. New rear wheel bearings. New plugs.
Throttle body cleaned, intake
upper plenum cleaned. Horn
buttons. rear cargo tonneau cover clips (this
was a Mitsu TSB), front
brake lines (recall), sway bar bushings, one stud
in left front wheel.
Brakes. (new rotors and pads).-fronts only-rears look
great.
Cosmetically, the car has only two flaws. In the front
nose, the paint is
flaking off in about a 2"x 3"section. I was told
this would involve
repainting the nose - quoted $150 by Dodge to refinish
and do it right with
the pearl, flex agent, etc..) The other is a
small tear in the drivers
seat. I was quoted $125 to repair. I
can have this done if the person
would like. No biggie.
Other
than that, the car is flawless. It has 52K miles on it and has
*never*
been smoked in. In fact, I don't think anyone has ever had a drink
in
my car.
At any rate, I am not looking to retire off this car, I just want
what is
fair. I will consider any reasonable offer. The dealer
wants to give me
$13K for the car. My receipts (in upgrades alone)
total just over 7K for
the mods, and the car sold for $42,000 when it was
new. I see the car
being worth somewhere between 14-16k although I am
sure there are some who
will argue the point.
Anyone who is
interested in seeing the car, it is located in Delray Beach,
FL. ***Please
email me
privately.***
Thanks,
Rick
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 16:28:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: oil leak...
Hi,
I've got some oil dripping from my '93
3000gt vr4. It's on the driver's
side, about a foot or foot and a half
back from the front bumper. Maybe
about 8-12 inches in from the
driver's side wheel.
Any ideas on what this might be? I called a
local service center (i'm
away from home right now) and they thought it might
be a seal near the
timing belt or something. That seemed a little odd
to me. It doesn't
appear to be on the engine at all, at least not w/ a
cursory inspection
from above... so i'm hoping it's not something major and
is just a leaky
seal.
Any feedback would be
appreciated...
andy
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 13:33:37 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: oil leak...
Front turbo oil drain bolts into the oilpan..check
em.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Burke [
mailto:burke@pas.rochester.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 1:29 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: oil leak...
Hi,
I've got some oil dripping from my '93
3000gt vr4. It's on the driver's
side, about a foot or foot and a half
back from the front bumper. Maybe
about 8-12 inches in from the
driver's side wheel.
Any ideas on what this might be? I called a
local service center (i'm
away from home right now) and they thought it might
be a seal near the
timing belt or something. That seemed a little odd
to me. It doesn't
appear to be on the engine at all, at least not w/ a
cursory inspection
from above... so i'm hoping it's not something major and
is just a leaky
seal.
Any feedback would be
appreciated...
andy
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 15:32:04 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
oil leak...
It is likely the rusted steel lines that go into/out
of
the oil cooler, which is located just in front of the
driverside
wheel. I had to change my hardlines--ground off the
rusted
through parts, welded on some AN fittings, and used
braided steel
lines to connect it all back up again.
They are prone to rust like
that.
Jack Tertadian
Andrew Burke wrote:
> oil dripping '93
3000gt vr4. driver
> side, a foot and a half back from front
bumper.
> 8-12 inches in from the driverside wheel.
> Any ideas on
what this might be? . It doesn't
> appear to be on the engine at
all
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 16:51:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> Front turbo oil drain bolts into the
oilpan..check em.
Ok, I got the car up and took a look, there's a black,
sort of bulbous
thing with a bolt facing the front of the car. The leak
is definitely
coming from that bolt.
I fear that's my oil pan and my
true ignorance of cars will be
demonstrated for all
:>
andy
ps. is this something like the last time I had the oil
changed, they
didn't tighten said bolt enough?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 13:53:54 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: oil leak...
Can you describe where this is???
Lots bolts
under the car.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Burke [
mailto:burke@pas.rochester.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 1:52 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> Front turbo oil drain bolts into the
oilpan..check em.
Ok, I got the car up and took a look, there's a black,
sort of bulbous
thing with a bolt facing the front of the car. The leak
is definitely
coming from that bolt.
I fear that's my oil pan and my
true ignorance of cars will be
demonstrated for all
:>
andy
ps. is this something like the last time I had the oil
changed, they
didn't tighten said bolt enough?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 16:58:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> Can you describe where this is???
>
> Lots bolts under the car.
Ok, it's about 1.5-2 feet in from the
driver's side wheel, and about 2
feet back from the front bumper. It is
black and is shaped sort of like
one of those things they put mayonaise in at
places like subway, sorta
like this:
- -\
/-
| |
| x |
\---/
with the "x" being the bolt that i'm talking about... the leak is
almost
definitely originating at that
bolt.
andy
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 14:00:37 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: oil leak...
Youve never seen an oilpan before?
Is that
what its on?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Burke [
mailto:burke@pas.rochester.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 1:58 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> Can you describe where this
is???
>
> Lots bolts under the car.
Ok, it's about 1.5-2
feet in from the driver's side wheel, and about 2
feet back from the front
bumper. It is black and is shaped sort of like
one of those things they
put mayonaise in at places like subway, sorta
like this:
-
-\ /-
|
|
| x |
\---/
with the "x" being the bolt
that i'm talking about... the leak is almost
definitely originating at that
bolt.
andy
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 14:01:42 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: oil leak...
> Ok, I got the car up and took a look, there's a
black, sort of bulbous
> thing with a bolt facing the front of the
car. The leak is definitely
> coming from that bolt.
If it's
the oil pan you're describing(sounds like it), perhaps the drain
plug isn't
tight enough, or whoever changed the oil last didn't use a
crush
washer? Or perhaps they used a crush washer that's been used
one-too-many
times and doesn't crush anymore? Mine leaked a little bit
one time when I
forgot to use a crush washer when I changed the oil.
I
don't know about all the other bolts under there, but the
drainplug is 17mm
and faces toward the front of the car, coming out of a
"black bulbous
thing"<g> that's kinda square and about 8" on a side. If
it's the
drainplug, you can pull the plug, cover the hole with a thumb or a
rag until
you can fit a crush washer on the drainplug, and then quickly
thread the
drainplug back on before you lose too much oil... or you could
change
your oil, which would probably be less messy:)
-
--Erik
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 17:02:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> Youve never seen an oilpan before?
>
> Is that what its on?
nope, never seen one... :<
I
don't know, that's my guess, but you guys know a lot more than I
do... so I
didn't wanna go cranking down a bolt without checking w/ you
guys
first.
> Ok, it's about 1.5-2 feet in from the driver's side wheel,
and about 2
> feet back from the front bumper. It is black and is
shaped sort of like
> one of those things they put mayonaise in at places
like subway, sorta
> like this:
>
>
-\ /-
> |
|
> | x |
> \---/
>
>
with the "x" being the bolt that i'm talking about... the leak is almost
>
definitely originating at that bolt.
btw, this view is from the front of
the car, looking back towards the
rear
underneath...
andy
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 14:05:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Parts special for June
Just got this from Starnet - though it
might be of interest.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Norco
Mitsubishi [
mailto:mitsparts@pe.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 11:32 AM
> To:
SoCal-DSM@egroups.com;
SoCal-DSM@onelist.com;
>
stealth@stls.verio.net;
stealth@stls.verio.net> Subject:
Parts special for June
>
>
> Hello everyone in DSM/3si land.
This is Paul at Norco Mits.
> Just wanted to
> inform you all of a
special I am are running for the month of
> June. Anything
>
purchased over $150.00 and we'll cover the freight. Now this does not
>
include any special freight like next day air. Only UPS
> ground. Also if
you
> guys are really nice to me and my boys I might even throw in
> a really cool
> gift.
> This is something new I'm trying
out. Every month a new
> special. So any
> suggestions would be
helpful. No one knows more about what
> you all use a lot
> of then
you. Be creative and reasonable. I'm trying to save
> you money,
but
> at the same time make money too.
>
> Paul
>
Wholesale Manager
> Norco Mitsubishi
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 14:14:48 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: any foglights for sale?
Does anyone have a 1st gen VR4 driver's
side fog light for sale? My glass lens
is destroyed.
Please
reply directly to me.
Thanks,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car,
your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 14:26:24 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
oil leak...
Sounds like the oil pan drain plug to me.
You should
see if it can be tightened a bit (not TOO much or it may cause
thread damage
or worse) if the leak is severe. If it is not a severe leak,
next time
you go in to change your oil ask that the crush washer for the
drain plug be
replaced with a new one and that the drain plug be properly
tigthened.
Ideally it should be replaced every time the oil is changed but
lots of
places/people do not do this.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I don't know, that's my guess, but you guys know a
lot more than I
> do... so I didn't wanna go cranking down a bolt without
checking w/ you
> guys first.
>
> > Ok, it's about 1.5-2
feet in from the driver's side wheel, and about 2
> > feet back from
the front bumper. It is black and is shaped sort of like
> > one
of those things they put mayonaise in at places like subway, sorta
> >
like this:
> >
> > -\ /-
>
> | |
> > | x
|
> > \---/
> >
> > with the "x" being
the bolt that i'm talking about... the leak is almost
> > definitely
originating at that bolt.
>
> btw, this view is from the front of
the car, looking back towards the rear
> underneath...
>
>
andy
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 18:05:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
> You should see if it can be tightened a bit
(not TOO much or it may cause
> thread damage or worse) if the leak is
severe. If it is not a severe leak,
> next time you go in to change
your oil ask that the crush washer for the
> drain plug be replaced with a
new one and that the drain plug be properly
> tigthened. Ideally it
should be replaced every time the oil is changed but
> lots of
places/people do not do this.
Well, I went to the local valvoline
quick-lube place to have them look at
it. I figured they'd at least
know if it was the oil pan plug.
It was. They were _very_
helpful. They noticed that the plug was both
cross-threaded and only
hand-tight. Took me down under the car to show
me. They gave me a
new plug and basically changed the oil (with
synthetic) for free because I
had been to a valvoline place before. They
gave me the old plug and
wrote up the problems so I can go back to the
dealership (i had them do the
last oil change while doing a couple other
small things) and raise holy
hell.
Now, I know most of you probably change your own oil and look down
on
those of us who don't... but if you're in the albany area and you need
an
oil change, the valvoline on the end of hackett (where it
meets
central) was an excellent
experience.
andy
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 15:51:01 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Hey guys,
Well, I've
figured out that the tapping noises weren't carbon buildup
afterall...no, it
was a VERY worn rod bearing. When I took the oil pan off,
I felt the
rods and one of them was loose enough to shake about 1/4 inch. I
took
off all the pistons it looks like that bad rod bearing gouged the
crankshaft
pretty good. Looks like I need a new crank.
Should I go to the
trouble of taking out the crank and putting in a new one
(probably from MS
Recycling) or get a new bottem end of an engine (probably
from MS Recycling
again). I noticed to take the crank off, the transmission
needs to come
off. ugh.
Thanks a bunch gang,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (still
waiting for the GT-PRO 355 turbos that probably won't be
used for awhile at
this rate...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 18:01:13 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: oil leak...
>Now, I know most of you probably change your
own oil and look down on
>those of us who don't...
I don't change
my oil. Too much trouble, too dirty, and I never know what
to do with the old
oil.
Instead, I take it to my Mitsu dealer, and have them put in a Mitsu
filter
and Mobil 1.
but if you're in the albany area and you
need an
>oil change, the valvoline on the end of hackett (where it
meets
>central) was an excellent experience.
I'm glad you had a
good experience. There are probably many more people out
there who have had a
bad experience with Jiffy Lube and the rest of that
quick-change crowd --
everything from failing to replace the drain plug to
putting a hole in the
filter.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 15:54:47 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Check all the other rod
and main bearing surfaces..you may be OK..ive rebuilt a
handful of Supra
motors that suffered the same thing..and a crank & rod
replacement fixed
em nicely.
The only exceptions is where the owner wondered about that
funny tapping..for
weeks and destroyed lots of other things too..but the
bottom end bearings will
be first to go.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Maxwell [
mailto:shmacker@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rod Bearing Failed, Crankshaft gouged...
Hey
guys,
Well, I've figured out that the tapping noises weren't carbon
buildup
afterall...no, it was a VERY worn rod bearing. When I took the
oil pan off,
I felt the rods and one of them was loose enough to shake about
1/4 inch. I
took off all the pistons it looks like that bad rod bearing
gouged the
crankshaft pretty good. Looks like I need a new
crank.
Should I go to the trouble of taking out the crank and putting in
a new one
(probably from MS Recycling) or get a new bottem end of an engine
(probably
from MS Recycling again). I noticed to take the crank off,
the transmission
needs to come off. ugh.
Thanks a bunch
gang,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T TT (still waiting for the GT-PRO 355 turbos
that probably won't be
used for awhile at this
rate...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 22:14:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Driveshaft & Hood Latch
Ok..im considering having a one-piece
driveshaft put on the car. The LSD
is load bearing..and doesnt move, so
shaft length wont change..no worries
there.
It looks like an almost
perfectly straight run, with no more altitude drop
than on my supra..but over
a MUCH longer throw.
Car will become an EM race-only car, so all in all
im really considering
the alum. shaft that should weigh in at about 16lbs in
the end (with
ends).
Any feedback on why I shouldnt do
this?
Hood Latch.
This @!(*%? is about to get a nasty rolled
up edge on the hood if I cant
get to this thing soon..we have to open the
hood to tech for autox (Have
two this weekend to hit)..and im not gonna have
a stinkin hood NOT open.
Next attempt will be to see how much I can pry
down the front wrap
plastic..to get a screwdriver in there to pop the
latch.
- --- SELF PACED IQ TEST---
Q: Do you have any clue
on how to delete unrelated text from your Email replies?
A:
[]Yes!
Congratulations..You pass!
B: []What are you talking
about! You fail, and you probly belived the ILUVYOU
virus, didnt you.
(This is a self based test, did you pass?
Replies to
mailto:iq@localhost)
-
---
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #139
*********************