team3s
Tuesday, May 16
2000
Volume 01 : Number
138
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 17:09:20 -0700
From: Pat Widder <
widder@widder.com>
Subject: Team3S:
"Smart Tire" Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Hello
all,
I've been lurking and absorbing the wisdom of list members here for
the
last few months and thought it was about time to contribute.
Brief
history: I've owned two VR4's since 1995 and have enjoyed them
both
immensely. Because of this, I also get that warm and fuzzy feeling
knowing
that I am contributing to my insurance man's Tahitian vacations, the
local
tire guy's retirement, radar detector manufacturers, the CA DMV
points
system etc., but I won't bore you with that as I'm sure a lot of you
are
doing the best you can in this regard too.
And seriously... what a
pleasure it is to be on a mailing list with such a
great signal-to-noise
ratio!!!
At 06:39 PM 5/15/2000 +0200, Roger wrote:
>I was
interested in the system discounttire.com is offering. But the
bulky
>monitor is har to isntall anywhere o nteh dashboard or even in the
armrest.
After ruining a $300 Yokohama last month running it at no more
than 45 mph
for 7 miles with 17 psi, I too got interested in tire pressure
monitoring
systems (I have one for a motorcycle). I was ecstatic when Jeff
posted that
we could get one from the company he works for and happy I could
give back
to a list member in some way. The integrated mirror/*self-powered*
receiver
seems like a great way to go and I hope their engineers stick with
that
concept.
Today I ordered the "Smart Tire" unit from
http://partsgm.com/parts.htm at
half
the price ($150 USD) most other dealers offer it for. It requires
either
being plugged into a cigarette lighter or hard wired (a harness is
included).
Given its dimensions, the receiving unit should just fit between
the dome
light panel and sunroof of my VR4. This should make powering the
unit
relatively easy as you can tap into the dome light leads.
The actual
mounting to the headliner I haven't figured out yet, but I'm
sure there's a
way.
=:-o
Pat
___________________________________________________________
Widder
Enterprises
http://www.widder.com942 E Ojai Ave,
Ojai CA 93023 USA
widder@widder.com800
WYB-COLD 805
640-1295 805
640-1296/Fax
___________________________________________________________
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 20:05:44 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TMO
Datalogger on a '95?
Does anyone happen to have available to them a
diagnostic plug from an OBDI
car?
Thanks,
Dan
94 3000GT
VR-4
3SI - #328
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 21:25:56 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Supra pump install
I bought the MKIV pump. Toyota PN
23221-49110...Denso PN 195130-1020
2 questions regarding installation of
the pump.
1: The fuel line that connects to the tank. I
realize that the fitting on
the tank side does not spin...i.e. hold this end
while spinning the hose
end. Well I could not get the hose end to spin
free from the hose. The
hose would just coil up. I know that
this is not right. The manual says
that I have to take the other end
of the hose off first. Is this
necessary?? Is the hose end
supposed to spin free from the hose. Mine is
pretty
rusty.
2: When I removed the stock pump. The top with the
nipple, has two plastic
pieces with a o-ring in the middle. I removed
these and put them on the new
supra pump. The bottom plastic piece
doesn't fit flush to the pump and
therefore the o-ring and top plastic piece
don't fit properly. I'm guessing
that I have to go back to Toyota to
buy the pieces that fit this pump??
Suggestions...
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 21:41:14 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Supra pump install
Mark Wendlandt wrote:
> I bought MKIV
pump. Toyota PN 23221-49110...Denso PN 195130-1020
> 1:
fuel line that connects to tank. I realize fitting on
> tank side
does not spin. I could not get hose end to spin free from
hose.
> The
> hose would just coil up. The manual says
>
have to take the other end of hose off first. Is this
>
necessary?
Yes. You go under car, on front/toward upper aspect of the
fuel tank are
two lines, one is the fuel line you see attached to the pump's
hardline fitting.
Loosen it, need not REMOVE it because once loose, THAT
LOWER END
spins so upper end can spin off.
BTW, I have changed pump by
twisting the hose a bunch of times (once)
but it was hard
:)
> 2: When I removed stock pump. The top with the
nipple, has two plastic
> pieces with a o-ring in the middle. I
removed these and put them on the new
> supra pump. The bottom
plastic piece doesn't fit flush to the pump and
> therefore the o-ring and
top plastic piece don't fit properly. I'm guessing
> that I have to
go back to Toyota to buy the pieces that fit this pump??
Is exactly same
pump dimenstions so you are not doing it right. Should
go on EXACTLY
like it was on stock pump.
Jack Tertadian
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 02:06:56 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: UPDATE:
LEMON CHECK
Hey Gang, me and my girlfriend just got
back from our 700 mile trip!! Let
me tell you, the car was worth every
single mile. I had the chance to spend
about a good hour overlooking the
car. The owner is a doctor (original owner)
who recently bought a new
Mercedes CLK which is the reason he is selling. The
owner hasn't made any
performance mods to the car. The only mods are 18"
Chrome VR-4 wheels,
aftermarket electric sunroof, Alpine double-din
cassette/15 CD player, amp
and bass tube and Python alarm. Engine is
completely
stock.
I made a checklist of all the information I got on
here before the trip.
Everything turned out perfect. The car has been given
synthetic oil every
3,000 miles. He has all the receipts for the regular
maintenance and new
transmission. He's not exactly sure if the timing belt
was changed, so that
leads me to believe I need the 60kmi tune-up. No smoke
out of the exhaust,
boost kicks in a little under 3k rpm's, no grinding in
any gear, all
amenities work. I did notice one thing though. At about 110
mph when I braked
I felt a "wobble." Definitely felt like warped
rotors to me. I asked the
owner if the rotors were stock, he said they had
been refinished a couple of
times but as far as he new they were stock. Just
wanted to throw that out to
the group and see what everyone thought. The
wobble was not nearly as
noticeable at lower speeds. Sorry for the long
letter guys but I'm really
pumped about it. I took some pictures of the
car/engine today and if anyone
wants to check them out, drop me a line.
Thanks again to everyone. Talk to
you
soon.
Bill
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 09:22:57 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: GP
on Poprterfield brakes
FYI
There is a GP on Porterfield stuff going
on.
http://www.3si.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006270.htmlFor
more info watch the thread or email
dqs2056@is.nyu.edu***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 01:33:19 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Lemon Check
Sounds like a winner for sure - no wonder
you're excited! :-) That
year, '94, is thought (by many of us) to
be the best of all 3S's, with
stronger parts, better crash protection, dual
airbags standard, etc. If
the price is right (taking into account what
you WILL spend for the
60k/waterpump/etc and what you SHOULD spend on an
aftermarket warranty)
it could be the right car. Oh yeah, remember that
insurance on
high-performance cars is steep, too. Figure it all in the
budget.
Before you buy, do a quick comparison check on
www.autotrader.com for
similar cars in
your area... But don't wait too long - if it really is
a
"cream-puff" it won't be for sale for too long.
BTW, it
probably IS warped rotors that caused the wobble, but it's also
possible that
it was underinflation or even mis-torqued lugnuts. Even
the manual
recommends +5 lbs for speeds over 100, and many of us use at
least that much
for normal driving, and closer to +10 lbs for high
speeds. And if the
lugnuts are not all at the same torque, you can get
wobble even without
braking, and at much lower speeds.
Good luck, Bill!
:-)
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From:
Screemo@aol.com>
Hey Gang, me and my girlfriend just got back from our 700 mile
trip!!
Let
>me tell you, the car was worth every single mile. I had the chance
to
spend
>about a good hour overlooking the car. The owner is a doctor
(original
owner)
>who recently bought a new Mercedes CLK which is the
reason he is
selling. The
>owner hasn't made any performance mods to
the car. The only mods are
18"
>Chrome VR-4 wheels, aftermarket
electric sunroof, Alpine double-din
>cassette/15 CD player, amp and bass
tube and Python alarm. Engine is
>completely
stock.
> I made a checklist of all the information I got
on here before the
trip.
>Everything turned out perfect. The car has
been given synthetic oil
every
>3,000 miles. He has all the receipts
for the regular maintenance and
new
>transmission. He's not exactly
sure if the timing belt was changed, so
that
>leads me to believe I
need the 60kmi tune-up. No smoke out of the
exhaust,
>boost kicks in a
little under 3k rpm's, no grinding in any gear, all
>amenities work. I did
notice one thing though. At about 110 mph when I
braked
>I felt a
"wobble." Definitely felt like warped rotors to me. I
asked
the
>owner if the rotors were stock, he said they had been
refinished a
couple of
>times but as far as he new they were stock.
Just wanted to throw that
out to
>the group and see what everyone
thought. The wobble was not nearly as
>noticeable at lower speeds. Sorry
for the long letter guys but I'm
really
>pumped about it. I took some
pictures of the car/engine today and if
anyone
>wants to check them
out, drop me a line. Thanks again to everyone. Talk
to
>you
soon.
>Bill
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 13:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <
mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Replace the horn
I want to replace the horn on my 3000GT with
something louder and deeper.
Can someone forward me the schematics on what
the horn hookup looks like?
The reason I am asking this again is because
I went down to an auto parts
store and they told me that the airhorns they
carried were "not compatible
with Mitsu's" and that I should go
down to a custom car shop to get this
done(?).
Would it be
possible for me to buy a BMW or something or would this just
totally not
work?
Thanks
Michael
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 13:07:32 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replace the horn
- --------
+> I want to replace
the horn on my 3000GT with something louder and deeper.
+> Can someone
forward me the schematics on what the horn hookup looks like?
+>
+>
The reason I am asking this again is because I went down to an auto
parts
+> store and they told me that the airhorns they carried were
"not compatible
+> with Mitsu's" and that I should go down to a
custom car shop to get this
+> done(?).
+>
+>
+> Would
it be possible for me to buy a BMW or something or would this just
+>
totally not work?
why would you buy a BMW when you have a
3000GT? ;)
just go to a junkyard and find a
an old 70's land yacht.. big domestic
cars of that era had pretty loud
horns.. they're all 12V so all you need
to do is to creatively mount it
and maybe adapt the connectors..
also, if I remember right there
are 2 factory horns.. there's also a
connection from the alarm to a
horn but I'm not sure if it's a third
or just one of the 2.. make sure
you switch out the correct one..
in my opinion, air horns are too much of
a pain to deal with.. the cheap
ones have a delay in response because
the air pump takes a second to develop
pressure..
on the other
hand.. I had air horns in my 78 Honda Civic 1200.. it always
amused me
to give someone a blast (when deserved) and have them think a
"Big
Rig" truck was bearing down on them.. :)
hope that's of
some help..
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI
G60
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 15:53:58 -0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Replace the horn
Michael,
In my reply to you I forgot to
mention that I bought the horns at Autozone
for I think about $30 and the
brand was I think "WOLO". Mitsu wanted about
$80 for a new
set of factory horns.
Mark
Michael,
I just replaced
the horns on my '96 VR-4. The guy who had it before me put
a crappy air
horn on it and it quit working.....anyway....the horns you need
to replace
are behind the front bumper. They are easy to access. There
are
hookups for 2 horns (hi-frequency and low-frequency). There are two
black
wires (neg) and two colored wires (green, and green with a tracer I
think).
The only part that was not compatible was the actual
connector. The ones on
the car were round female and the ones on the
wires that came with the horns
were flat male. I bought some round
connectors (the male part) and replaced
the end with the male flat connector
and just plugged the wires in. It took
me about 30 mins. and I am not
Mr. mechanic by any means.
I hope this helps.
Mark '96
VR-4
'97 YZF 600
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Mike Baldwin
> Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 13:55
> To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Replace the horn
>
>
> I want to replace the
horn on my 3000GT with something louder and deeper.
> Can someone forward
me the schematics on what the horn hookup looks like?
>
> The reason
I am asking this again is because I went down to an auto parts
> store and
they told me that the airhorns they carried were "not compatible
>
with Mitsu's" and that I should go down to a custom car shop to get
this
> done(?).
>
>
> Would it be possible for me to buy
a BMW or something or would this just
> totally not work?
>
>
Thanks
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:04:06 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fwd: Terrible News
just got this from starnet
>From:
glenn <
glenn@forgedesign.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth@starnet.net>To: <
stealth-d@stls.verio.net>
>Subject:
Terrible News
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 14:54:33 -0500
>MIME-Version:
1.0
>Received: from [199.217.245.110] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBAEAF36C0032D820F39FC7D9F56E08381; Tue May 16 12:58:40
2000
>Received: (from slist@localhost)by monica.starnet.net (8.9.3/8.9.3)
id
>OAA85436;Tue, 16 May 2000 14:54:52 -0500 (CDT)
>From
stealth-request@starnet.net Tue
May 16 13:01:20 2000
>Resent-Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 14:54:52 -0500
(CDT)
>x-mailer: Claris Emailer 2.0v3, January 22, 1998
>Message-ID:
<
1253633493-1934557@macsourceokc.com>
>Resent-Message-ID:
<
4wZDjC.A.02U.LeaI5@monica.starnet.net>
>Resent-From:
stealth@starnet.net>X-Mailing-List:
<
stealth@starnet.net>
archive/latest/70678
>X-Loop:
stealth@starnet.net>Precedence:
list
>Resent-Sender:
stealth-request@starnet.net>
>Everyone!
>
>Matt
Meyers from Accelerated Accessories was hurt very seriously in a
car
>accident. He rolled his BMW 3 or 4 times. He is in ICU and they say
he
>will be in ICU for quite some time. He has major head trauma and a
broken
>back. They also removed his spleen. He had two passengers whom
I
>understand to have minor injuries. I feel horrible because I had
just
>placed an order with him and they found it in the car after the
crash.
>
>I wanted to let the group know about his situation so we
all could keep
>him in our minds and prayers. His dad and brother will be
out of the shop
>for a while. They do plan, right now, to open back up
sometime soon.
>Frank said that Matt will not be able to accept calls or
flowers until he
>is out of ICU. This is all I know. If you know Matt and
Frank I am sure
>your calls would be appreciated. If someone learns more
please keep us
>updated.
>
>Take care,
Glenn
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:04:12 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: LEMON
CHECK UPDATE
Hey guys, just wanted to fill
everyone in on my situation. I put a
deposit on the car yesterday and got
pre-approaved for my loan. The only
thing left is the insurance. The lowest
quote I got believe it or not is
$4,100 for the year with Progressive,
that's with $1000 deductible's on comp
and collision. I knew it was going to
be expensive to insure the car. I'm a
20 year old male which probably
doesn't help my situation. My current
insurance company and two others wont
even insure the car, period. They say
it has some symbol next to it and they
wont touch it. Well, I got two hours
of sleep last night cause I was so
excited I'm finally getting my dream car.
I still feel the adreline rush
even in the short time I had with the car. I
couldn't believe the amount of
torque the car has.
Regarding the rotors, should I replace
all four or just the front? Also,
where's the best place to get the 60kmi
tuneup done in the northeast? There
is a local Mitsu dealership, but they
don't have a very good reputation and I
don't trust them. Thanks for
everyone's help and input. I'll definitely be in
touch.
Bill in
NY
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:14:33 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: LEMON CHECK UPDATE
The lowest quote I got believe it or
not is
>$4,100 for the year with Progressive, that's with $1000
deductible's on comp
>and collision.
You need a winter rat
to be your primary vehicle. That way, the VR4
becomes a Sunday driver, not a
go-to-work car, and your insurance cost will
drop like a rock. Besides, you
don't want to drive it in the winter anyway.
Hey, I didn't hear anything
about a warranty. Hope you are getting one.
You'll regret it if you
don't.
>Well, I got two hours
>of sleep last night cause I was
so excited I'm finally getting my dream car.
>I still feel the adreline
rush even in the short time I had with the car. I
>couldn't believe the
amount of torque the car has.
I know how you feel. I drove mine in St
Louis, then went home to Cedar
Rapids to think about it. All I could see was
the actor Will Smith, in the
movie Independence Day, when he flew the alien
spacecraft for the first
time: he said, "I gotta get me one of
these!" That was me.
> Regarding the rotors,
should I replace all four or just the front?
Just the fronts. Our brakes
are extremely simple, and no challenge to any
mechanically-inclined person.
Shoot, I change pads myself trackside and, if
I can do it, anybody can. Check
our FAQ list for a description on how to
change pads.
Forget the
dealer. They regard brake jobs as a huge money sink. Go to them,
and
EVERYTHING will be wrong with your brakes. We hear dealer horror
stories here
all the time involving brakes.
Instead, find yourself a friendly brake
and suspension shop that is willing
to tackle the job. Ask them to remove the
front rotors and turn them down.
Install new stock pads. Everything should be
just fine. Our front brakes
are suitable for everything this side of road
racing or autobahn cruising.
You definitely need to cultivate a mechanic
outside the Mitsu dealer who is
willing to work on your car.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:36:20 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
A engine problem & a few questions...
What's up guys? I've got a few
questions about an engine problem I've been
having. Here's a list of my mods
before I even start.
http://www.linkline.com/personal/amahoser/trevor.htmlWent
out looking for races the other day. Checked the air fuel ratio and it
was
good (.94-.96V), EGT's stayed under 1630F on a quarter mile run, and
boost was
set at 14.9 psi. My EVC IV was set to drop the boost down to 6.7
psi if it went
over 16 psi. All was well.
While racing a Z28 on a third
gear punch I steadily lost power from 6000-6800 rpm
when I backed out it. The
engine died and I coasted off of a highway exit. There
it wouldn't start for
what seemed like an eternity. It finally turned over and
was belching dark
grey smoke (flooded) for a few seconds. Then it idled like crap
and I babied
it less than a mile to home. I put the scantool on it and no matter
how rich
i turned up the ARC the back bank of cylinders O2 would not go over
.52V. The
computer was constantly trying to richen up the back bank also. The
front
would max out to a full 1.0V. Weird.
Ripped it apart and checked the plugs.
The front bank of three were fine but the
rear middle and passenger side plug
electrodes had been crushed until it touched
the center electrode. IE no gap!
Has anyone ever seen this? I've regapped the
plugs twice and I know with one
of the plugs I had squished it past .032" and had
to open it back up
slightly. Sounds far fetched but do you think I may have
weakened the metal
and the heat caused it to close up? I don't think there's any
way the piston
top could have come in contact with the plug without messing up
some valves.
I wonder if I may have burned up a coil or two. I used a borescope
to look at
the insides of the cylinders and the tops of the pistons. It looks
good. All
the valves seem to be closing just fine, no bent ones. The tops of
the
pistons don't have any holes or nicks in them from coming in contact
with
anything.
I checked out the timing belt and tensioner and they look
just fine. The belt
feels pretty tight and looks great. After all the car has
only 26K miles on it.
With the crank pulley's reference mark @ TDC the front
intake cam's reference
mark is at roughly 4 o'clock where the front exhaust
cam's at 8 o'clock. The back
is the opposite (intake at 8 and exhaust at 4).
I thought the cams were supposed
to line up with the triangle and square on
the drivers side of the valve
covers?!? I'm using the dimples on the sides of
the cam sprockets as reference
marks.
Next plan of action is to do a
compression test. What's the minimum compression I
should see? I'm also going
to swap the front and rear injectors to see if the
lean bank condition
follows.
Any input would be appreciated guys...
Trevor
PS I
beat the Z28...he backed out of it after I put a quick 3 carlengths on
him.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 20:48:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Replace the horn
> I want to replace the horn on my 3000GT
with something louder and deeper.
> Can someone forward me the schematics
on what the horn hookup looks like?
The two little "tweeters"
sit behind the bumper, reacheable right before the
radiator. There are two
wires for them and simple one ground.
> The reason I am asking this
again is because I went down to an auto parts
> store and they told me
that the airhorns they carried were "not compatible
> with
Mitsu's" and that I should go down to a custom car shop to get this
>
done(?).
Everything works fine, at least what we have here in
Europe.
> Would it be possible for me to buy a BMW or something or
would this just
> totally not work?
They are usually the same. The
two wires are the same and the groudn can be
connected to the
chassis.
Roger
93'3000GT TT (deep dual tone
horns)
***Info:
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Date:
Wed, 17 May 2000 00:23:45 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A engine problem & a few questions...
> was belching dark
grey smoke (flooded) for a few seconds. Then it idled
like crap
> and I
babied it less than a mile to home. I put the scantool on it and
no
matter
> how rich i turned up the ARC the back bank of cylinders O2
would not go
over
> .52V. The computer was constantly trying to richen
up the back bank also.
The
> front would max out to a full 1.0V.
Weird.
Hmm, it sounds like :
- - O2 sensor is gone
- - One or two
injectors are not working
> Ripped it apart and checked the plugs. The
front bank of three were fine
but the
> rear middle and passenger side
plug electrodes had been crushed until it
touched
> the center
electrode. IE no gap! Has anyone ever seen this?
Yes, after the belt
slipped ! Also when I had the ocmpression problem on my
car, the landring was
broken and a piece foudn it's way up to the chamber
where it hits the plug
before it found the way out.
> burned up a coil or two.
You can
easily check them with a multimeter.
> I used a borescope to look at
the insides of the cylinders and the tops of
the pistons.
Can you
please tell me where to get such a lovely tool :))
> I'm using the
dimples on the sides of the cam sprockets as reference
marks.
For all
these testings I highly recommend you to get a manual (or at least
the CD
from Vineet Singh)
> Next plan of action is to do a compression test.
What's the minimum
compression I
Around 115psi is min but I'd not
accept values below 120psi
Hope this helps a little
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 16:46:32 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
insurance
try general national. I pay $700 for 3 cars inculing two turbo
mitsus
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 17:01:05 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Hood release!!
Ah hell..
Hood release has stopped
working. Worked good last night, this AM..no go up.
Cable seems
intact, I can hear it under the hood up front, but its not engaging
the
latch.
What short of removing the bumper..do I do
now?
***Info:
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Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 19:23:01 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hood release!!
You won't get the bumper off without removing the
hood first... Have
someone attempt to pull upon the hood while you pull
the latch... Maybe a
big suction cup would work...
-
-Cody
#Ah hell..
#
#Hood release has stopped working.
Worked good last night, this
#AM..no go up.
#
#
#Cable seems intact,
I can hear it under the hood up front, but its
#not engaging
#the
latch.
#
#What short of removing the bumper..do I do
now?
#
#***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
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End
of team3s V1 #138
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