team3s
Monday, May 15
2000
Volume 01 : Number
137
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 16:30:40 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Body Flex w/sunroof
Brief background: I have a friend who's about
to buy a '96 3000GT (base
model) with an aftermarket sunroof installed.
The car is in beautiful
condition, with maintenance records, is sound
mechanically, etc. The only
hiccup is that the sunroof creaks a little
when you take corners hard, and
creaks a lot when travelling on a bumpy road
where the left/right tires are
raised/lowered different amounts. The
car is silent with the sunroof OPEN,
but when it's closed, you can hear the
seals/glass/stuff rubbing or
creaking.
Other than berating the
previous owner for tearing up the roof on such a
beautiful car<g> what
can he do? I know that the '95s with a factory
sunroof had some kind of
brace between the rear strut towers (that's why you
can't lower them,
right?). So would a rear strut-tower bar fix/minimize the
sunroof
creaking? Any other ideas?
Thanks!
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil
filter
*** No more ticking lash adjusters(since 07/99)!
***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)
66,000mi
Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the
road" tires (must fix)
Battery:1, Erik:0
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 20:12:01 EDT
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Performance Upgrades to a 1991Stealth RT?
Hi, I am
looking for performance upgrades for my Stock 1991 Stealth RT 24
Valve
Automatic non-twin turbo. I would like to start with the suspension
first, and then the exhaust system, and finally modifications to the drive
train. Any suggestions would be appreciated as what to do first, and
what
parts I should use to do this project. The car will be street
driven, but I
live in the Mountains of California and am tired of being
beaten by Mustang
Cobras.
Merrisa
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 22:47:23 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 3000gt
lemon check
Hello to everyone on the list. I've been subscribed to the
list for a while
and finally have a reason to post. I am traveling 5 hours
tomorrow to check
out a 94' VR-V. It has 50,000 miles and is exactly what
I'm looking for. The
transmission was changed in January ($6,700) and
besides regular maintence
that is all that has been done to it. I'm very
familiar with naturally
aspirated vehicles, but I do not have that much
knowledge about turbocharged
cars. Basically I want to know what to look out
for tomorrow. I know there's
a lot of knowledgeable people on this list and
I thought it was the perfect
place to ask. What are some key points to look
out for? What should I notice
when driving the car? Anything that you think
would help would be greatly
appreciated, thanks in advance.
Bill in
NY
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 22:56:11 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt lemon check
At 10:47 PM 5/14/00 EDT, you
wrote:
>I am traveling 5 hours tomorrow to check
>out a 94' VR-V.
<snip> What are some key points to look out for?
You want to be
absolutely certain you can purchase an aftermarket warranty
for the car. DO
NOT buy a VR4 without a warranty. You may have to run the
VIN through Mitsu
to see if it has any problems that would void a warranty
(for example, if the
previous owner raced the car, and Mitsu made that
determination, it might be
reflected in your car's history, and that might
void the warranty). A
warranty will cost you about $1700, and it's worth
every penny.
Check
the receipt for the transmission work to see if it got a new clutch
when the
tranny went in. If not, you'll need a clutch soon.
Check the tranny for a
1-2 or 3-2 grind. It may be a new tranny, but the
2nd gear synchros are the
weak link. If you hear a grind, the synchros are
gone again.
Be
prepared to shell out $750 for the 60,000 mile service and timing
belt
change. That will need to be done soon. (Check with us when the time
comes
- -- we have lots of advice on how to get it done
right).
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 23:04:37 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Performance Upgrades to a 1991Stealth RT?
At 08:12 PM 5/14/00
EDT,
MerisaPDX@aol.com
wrote:
> Hi, I am looking for performance upgrades for
my Stock 1991 Stealth RT
24
>Valve Automatic non-twin turbo. I
would like to start with the suspension
>first,
This part is
easy:
Ground Control adjustable suspension kit ($400) -- includes Eibach
springs.
Lower the car 1.5 in. all the way around or until it measures 26 in.
from
the fender lip to ground.
Next, if you can afford it:
GAB
struts ($?)
Ground Control camber plates ($300).
With all this, it'll
corner like it's on rails.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 23:34:14 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Lemon
Check update
Sorry guys, I forgot to mention the car is from a private
party. The clutch
was replaced with the new transmission. I will definitely
look out for the
grind in second gear. If anyone else has anything to add
I'd appreciate it.
Thanks a lot.
Bill
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 23:40:27 EDT
From:
Screemo@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Thanks
guys
Just wanted to let you guys know I really appreciate your time and
help. I'm
really excited about tomorrow. If there's anything else, please
keep it
coming as i'm setting up a checklist. I'll keep everyone posted on
how it
went tomorrow. Thanks again.
Bill
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 21:16:04 -0600
From: Manoj Prasad <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt lemon check
The 60K service w/ timing belt and water pump
will probably be around $1,500.
Also check for high performance parts
like the K&N FIPK or exhaust. If you do
get a warranty, these items
will void the warranty.
How much are you paying for this car? 50k
miles is very good.
Rgds
Moe P
Merritt wrote:
> At
10:47 PM 5/14/00 EDT, you wrote:
> >I am traveling 5 hours tomorrow to
check
> >out a 94' VR-V. <snip> What are some key points to look
out for?
>
> You want to be absolutely certain you can purchase an
aftermarket warranty
> for the car. DO NOT buy a VR4 without a warranty.
You may have to run the
> VIN through Mitsu to see if it has any problems
that would void a warranty
> (for example, if the previous owner raced the
car, and Mitsu made that
> determination, it might be reflected in your
car's history, and that might
> void the warranty). A warranty will cost
you about $1700, and it's worth
> every penny.
>
> Check the
receipt for the transmission work to see if it got a new clutch
> when the
tranny went in. If not, you'll need a clutch soon.
>
> Check the
tranny for a 1-2 or 3-2 grind. It may be a new tranny, but the
> 2nd gear
synchros are the weak link. If you hear a grind, the synchros are
> gone
again.
>
> Be prepared to shell out $750 for the 60,000 mile service
and timing belt
> change. That will need to be done soon. (Check with us
when the time comes
> -- we have lots of advice on how to get it done
right).
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 01:33:29 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt lemon check
> The 60K service w/ timing belt and water
pump will probably
> be around $1,500.
Woah, if you are paying
that much then you are getting majorly ripped off! Even at a dealer it
shouldn't be much over $1000, and the dealer is the best candidate for paying
too much money (but hopefully they'll do the job right).
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 09:23:13 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt lemon check
These mods will only void a warranty if the
warranty cmpany can determine
that they were the exact cause of a
failure. SO, ther eis almost no way
that either of these will void a
warranty... because there would be almost
no way that either could void
a warranty...
- -Cody
#Also check for high performance parts
like the K&N FIPK or
#exhaust. If you do
#get a warranty, these
items will void the warranty.#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 10:48:12 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Update
A couple of weeks ago, I
posted a message about a Tire Pressure Monitoring
System, called PSI, that a
separate division of my company was developing.
At that time, the company was
trying to determine it's market strategy and
was also re-thinking some of the
engineering details. But they had built a
few dozen prototypes that I was
trying to get my hands on for you guys.
Anyway, I talked with the
division manager, and told him that I believed
there would be an
aftermarket market, based on the positive interest I
received from this list,
as well as from the manager one of the larger tire
store chains. He
later reported back that these systems will eventually be
offered as an OEM
option on new cars, but WILL ALSO be made available as an
aftermarket item!
They are also looking at re-engineering the in-car
monitor, as opposed to
having it in a replacement rear-view mirror as it is
currently designed, and
may also be considering measuring tire temperatures
also. However,
these systems will not be available until at least October,
and because of
warranty and liability issues, they would not offer any of
the prototypes for
sale.
One of these prototypes, however, did manage to get installed on my
VR4.
It's pretty cool! But there are a couple of drawbacks with the
current
design. The replacement mirror, although stylish, is somewhat
obtrusive,
and tends to vibrate more than the stock mirror. Also, the levels
of tire
pressure that generate warning signals from the monitor are pre-set
and
non-changeable. Based on some of your responses, and also on my
personal
preference, I think it would be better if the user was able to
program
these warning levels. I'm also not sure about the calibration of
the
sensors. They seem to be reading high when compared to a manual
type
pressure gauge, but maybe the sensors are more accurate than the gauge.
One
thing I found very surprising, is the large variation in tire
pressures
after the car has been driven for only a few minutes. The pressure
will
increase up to 2 psi on the rear tires, and eventually up to 4psi on
the
fronts. I'm sure this will vary depending on weather conditions, the
type
of tire, and the driving conditions, but I didn't expect the
pressures
would change that much. Now I better understand why some of you
racing
folks pay a lot of attention to tire pressures.
I'll keep you
posted on the status of this system, and thanks for
your
responses.
Jeff Williamson
Belleville,
MI
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 08:37:26 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Update
Nah..tire temps will be
a horribly flawed reading.
The ambinent air temp IN the tire will not
match tire face temps..and should be
many many deg. lower, and the temps of
the rim assembly where the unit
lives..will also read highly inflated as to
tire face temps. It would be a
'neat' reading, but for the people who
could actually benefit from it..it would
be useless.
BUT..im not sayin
I wouldnt buy it (as long as im not payin a premium for the
temp
part)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com [
mailto:Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com]
Sent:
Monday, May 15, 2000 7:48 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
widder@widder.comSubject: Team3S: Tire
Pressure Monitoring System - Update
A couple of weeks ago, I posted a
message about a Tire Pressure Monitoring
System, called PSI, that a separate
division of my company was developing.
At that time, the company was trying
to determine it's market strategy and
was also re-thinking some of the
engineering details. But they had built a
few dozen prototypes that I was
trying to get my hands on for you guys.
Anyway, I talked with the
division manager, and told him that I believed
there would be an
aftermarket market, based on the positive interest I
received from this list,
as well as from the manager one of the larger tire
store chains. He
later reported back that these systems will eventually be
offered as an OEM
option on new cars, but WILL ALSO be made available as an
aftermarket item!
They are also looking at re-engineering the in-car
monitor, as opposed to
having it in a replacement rear-view mirror as it is
currently designed, and
may also be considering measuring tire temperatures
also. However,
these systems will not be available until at least October,
and because of
warranty and liability issues, they would not offer any of
the prototypes for
sale.
One of these prototypes, however, did manage to get installed on my
VR4.
It's pretty cool! But there are a couple of drawbacks with the
current
design. The replacement mirror, although stylish, is somewhat
obtrusive,
and tends to vibrate more than the stock mirror. Also, the levels
of tire
pressure that generate warning signals from the monitor are pre-set
and
non-changeable. Based on some of your responses, and also on my
personal
preference, I think it would be better if the user was able to
program
these warning levels. I'm also not sure about the calibration of
the
sensors. They seem to be reading high when compared to a manual
type
pressure gauge, but maybe the sensors are more accurate than the gauge.
One
thing I found very surprising, is the large variation in tire
pressures
after the car has been driven for only a few minutes. The pressure
will
increase up to 2 psi on the rear tires, and eventually up to 4psi on
the
fronts. I'm sure this will vary depending on weather conditions, the
type
of tire, and the driving conditions, but I didn't expect the
pressures
would change that much. Now I better understand why some of you
racing
folks pay a lot of attention to tire pressures.
I'll keep you
posted on the status of this system, and thanks for
your
responses.
Jeff Williamson
Belleville,
MI
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 11:17:17 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Update
>One
>thing
I found very surprising, is the large variation in tire pressures
>after
the car has been driven for only a few minutes. The pressure
will
>increase up to 2 psi on the rear tires, and eventually up to 4psi on
the
>fronts. I'm sure this will vary depending on weather conditions, the
type
>of tire, and the driving conditions, but I didn't expect the
pressures
>would change that much. Now I better understand why some of you
racing
>folks pay a lot of attention to tire pressures.
In TSD
rallying back in the 1970s, we were well aware of tire pressures.
Before
beginning an odometer check, we always had a tire warmup leg of a
few miles,
which let the tires get up to operating temperature and
stabilize the
pressure. Then, we would run an odometer check where we
compared our mileage
to the official mileage. Using a correction box, we
could recalibrate to a
few thousandths of a mile. I guess they do it all
with computers
today.
As for racing, I start with 44/38 psi, but after a few laps it's
up to
48/40, which correlates with your observations.
Rich/old
poop/fullofhot air>
>I'll keep you posted on the status of this system,
and thanks for your
>responses.
>
>Jeff
Williamson
>Belleville, MI
>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 18:39:40 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Update
> He later
reported back that these systems will eventually be
> offered as an OEM
option on new cars, but WILL ALSO be made available as
an
> aftermarket
item! They are also looking at re-engineering the in-car
> monitor, as
opposed to having it in a replacement rear-view mirror as it
is
>
currently designed, and may also be considering measuring
tire
temperatures
I was interested in the system dicounttire.com is
offering. But the bulky
monitor is har to isntall anywhere o nteh dashboard
or even in the armrest.
My wish would be a simple half or quarter DIN
sized panel that can be
installed somewhere around the stereo or the vents.
The later would be not
bad on our cars as the height would be perfect
:)
Yes, the user should be able to set two alarm points, max and min. An
alarm
should sound when one of the limits are reached. For the setting
three
buttons are necessary. I'd think of something like SET and the
current
pressure is shown in the small display (e.g. 3 digits). With UP the
shown
value will be increased by 0.5psi steps and when reached the desired
value
SET stores them. The same steps with DOWN. The stored values are valid
for
all tires (enough for me) or a front/rear setup would be nice
too.
I for my self do not like anything in the rear window and even more
it is
very unpopular here ! You do not find any non-US car with any display
in the
mirror. Today, many cars (Audi, Merc, VW, Renault, Saab, Volvo) do
have an
onboard diagnostic system with a smaller or bigger display and for
sure such
a system should be incorporated with the tire-pressure sensing
system. But
there is definitely a market for such an aftermarket system that
can be
mounted too ;)
Roger
Switzerland
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 12:56:58 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Upper Midwest Gathering, 4 days left
Hey everyone,
A quick
reminder that the Upper Midwest Gathering is only 4 days away.
There
are still a few rooms available at the hotel. Check out all the info
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.htmlAnd
e-mail me privatly with any
questions.
Thanks,
Curt
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 11:04:20 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apexi avc-r boost controller
Hi Alex,
> What is the
best way to get the wireing harness from the engine compartment
> to the
interior of the car? The connectors on the harness are to large.
alex
I hope this isn't too late...
Use the hole in the firewall
just behind the brake pedal. It is located below
the boot for the
steering shaft and may be behind the carpet. Cut 4-6
pie-shaped slits
in the rubber grommet using an art or 'exacto' knife.
It it easiest if
you have two people to install the harness. Push a length of
heavy
gauge (12-14 ga) single strand wire from under the dash into the
engine
bay. Pull plenty through and attach to the harnesses flat
connector. Bend the
connector so it is parallel to the harness.
Use lots of black electrical tape
to attach your "pull wire" and
cover the connector makeing it as "thin" as
possible. Then,
one person feed the harness from the engine bay, the other pull
from under
the dash.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car,
your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 11:22:23 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: Wheel fitment..
Is there anyone in Dayton, OH?
I need
someone to stop by Forgeline, to verify if thier 17x9.5 wheel
fits.
*heh*
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 14:37:02 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo's
Mikael,
How are things going with the 18T turbos? You
have them on already,
correct? Is installation difficult? Where
can I get them? What is the
approximate cost?
Anyone else have
any experience with these turbos?
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 15:38:40 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Brake recommendations?
Ok, so I'm getting sick of my
vibrating steering wheel. I know that
brakes are a sore subject on our
cars and I want to do this right the first
time, I can't afford to do it
twice. Here are my plans and a few questions:
Lots
of drag racing and maybe an occasional auto-x or road course. Should
I
replace all 4 rotors, will I need a proportioning valve if I do?
What
rotor/pad combos are tried and true? Should I stay away from cross
drilled as
I MIGHT run the car on a road course? I've heard good things
about
Porterfield, what about PowerSlot?
Think that's it for now,
thanks.
Jason
http://vr4.crashed.net12.82@109.401.92 60' (damn wheel
hop)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 15:51:30 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake recommendations?
Should
>I replace all 4 rotors,
No--just take off the front rotors, get them trued up and put them back
on.
Replace them only if they can't be cut down any more. Stock rotors work
great.
You didn't say what year you have. If it's a 93 or earlier, you
should
upgrade to 94+ calipers and rotors. If you can't do this easily
(e.g.,
cheaply), you can probably jump directly to Big Reds for the same
price.
>What rotor/pad combos are tried and true?
Stock
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors, Porterfield R4 pads
Should I
stay away from cross drilled as
>I MIGHT run the car on a road
course?
Yes--they act like a cheese grater on your pads, then they
crack at the
holes.
I've heard good things
about
>Porterfield
Yes -- their cryogenically treated stock rotors
are great.
, what about PowerSlot?
DO NOT, under any
circumstances, use PowerSlots for anything other than
looking pretty. They
break in two at the hub (been there, done that, twice)
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 16:16:31 -0400
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Flywheel on 94 R/T TT
Hey guys/gals,
I am having a new
clutch put in my 94 R/T TT today. My buddy is the one
doing the work
(at my local Dodge dealer) and he asked me if I wanted the
flywheel turned
or replaced. What is the general consensus? I was told
by
a buddy of mine that you could not turn the flywheels on the Vr-4
models? Is this correct?
I may be able to get Chrysler to cover
the flywheel under warranty but if
not, I may have to pay for it
myself. I would consider having it turned
but if it compromises the
integrity of the flywheel (being in a heavy AWD
car) I will not do
it.
Thanks for any info.
Rick
94 R/T TT
Pearl Yellow
6
speed
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 22:29:52 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Flywheel on 94 R/T TT
> doing the work (at my local Dodge
dealer) and he asked me if I wanted the
> flywheel turned or
replaced.
Have it replaced, it runs only about
$30
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 16:39:55 EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Flywheel on 94 R/T TT
In a message dated 5/15/2000 4:31:02 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
robby@freesurf.ch
writes:
<< Have it replaced, it runs only about $30
>>
Did you mean $130? A flywheel is well over $100 dealer
cost.
Josh
'91 Galant VR4
'92 3000GT VR4
'90 Eclipse GSX
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 13:53:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flywheel on 94 R/T TT
Well mine was re-surfaced and balanced
for $48 when my engine
was out. I only have 2000 miles on the new engine but
have
experienced no problems. Total mileage is about 57K and I think
it
was the original flywheel.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick D" <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, May 15, 2000 2:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Flywheel on 94 R/T
TT
Hey guys/gals,
I am having a new clutch put in my 94 R/T TT
today. My buddy is
the one doing the work (at my local Dodge dealer)
and he asked
me if I wanted the flywheel turned or replaced. What is
the
general consensus? I was told by a buddy of mine that
you
could not turn the flywheels on the Vr-4 models? Is
this
correct?
I may be able to get Chrysler to cover the flywheel
under
warranty but if not, I may have to pay for it myself. I
would
consider having it turned but if it compromises the integrity of
the
flywheel (being in a heavy AWD car) I will not do it.
Thanks for any
info.
Rick
94 R/T TT
Pearl Yellow
6
speed
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 23:03:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Flywheel on 94 R/T TT
> Did you mean $130? A flywheel is
well over $100 dealer cost.
Argh, sure :) My typo ! I paid $130 and
labour was included in the whole
clutch replacement. Finally Mitsu paid for
it too.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 May 2000 20:01:46 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TMO
Datalogger on a '95?
I am thinking of doing the same thing. I bought and
OBDII datalogger for my
94 VR-4 and, of course, it doesn't work. I will use
the plug assembly to
connect to the car and then splice it into a TMO unit. I
was going to try
this out at the Ocean City Gathering but I got there late
and didn't have
time to hook up with the guy that was letting me use his TMO.
As soon as I
get a TMO and get it tested with my OBDII plug, I will post
here.
Dan
94 3000GT VR-4
3SI - #328
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #137
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