team3s
Sunday, May 14
2000
Volume 01 : Number
136
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 14:01:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crank Position Sensor HELP!
Bob,
Only 1991 and 1992
models have an adjustable CAS (up near the
throttle body). For 1993 models
on, the CAS (under the timing
belt cover) is not adjustable.
Jeff
Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob_Rand <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:54 AM
Subject: Team3S: Crank Position Sensor
HELP!
Hey Gang, I want to set my basic timing, but; for the
life of
me I cannot see how to adjust the crank angle sensor. I
am
from to old,old school where you turned the distributor to
adjust
timing. The manual does not explain the proceedure to do
this
job. Would someone please give me the details.
Thanks,
Bob
93 Stealth
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 19:36:11 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: RE: Team3S: two
very simple quesitons
Thanks Matt, you're advice is greatly
appreciated!
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 21:28:27 EDT
From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
apexi avc-r boost controller
What is the best way to get the wireing
harness from the engine compartment
to the interior of the car? The
connectors on the harness are to large. alex
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 20:29:26 -0500
From: "Craig Hodges" <
ahodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Pat
Widder [
mailto:widder@widder.com]
Sent: Saturday,
May 13, 2000 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
Hi
Craig,
At 11:04 PM 5/16/2000 -0500, you wrote:
I traded in my '93
VR4 and purchased a '99 VR4 about 6 months ago. Although
I don't keep
records, my gas mileage on the '99 is more consistent
with
SNIP>>>>
Pat
Pat,
I like the 6 speed allot
on the highway. 2500 RPM @ 80MPH is great. I have
a small truck w/ a 5
speed so I am accustomed to shifting in traffic. The SL
is an automatic, I
got it that way because of the rush hour driving I do and
I must say it is
nice in that situation to have the auto. With the VR4 its
not bad, but
now that you've mentioned it I guess I do shift more often than
the truck.
But, its not really noticeable. On the gas mileage, yes I admit
I have
been playing with the car quite a bit, I got it 10 days ago, so I am
trying
to be good for a tank and see what happens. The SL is quick for sure
but I
don't think any match for the VR4 off the line. I have had the SL up
to
140MPH- once.. and still had some pedal left but I got worried about the
cops
so no faster. If what I have read here from our buddies in Europe is
true,
then I think that Mitsu may have the computer limit the speed to
around
150MPH. Guys correct me if I am wrong.
On the K&N, I had it on the SL
and it made it bit louder, and maybe a bit
faster. But I reset the computer
with the new filter and that is when I
noticed the difference. I don't know
whether it was the filter or the
resetting of the computer that really made
the difference. On the VR4 I
can't say that I have been able to notice
a difference yet, but I have been
trying to do my mileage check so I haven't
been playing much lately.
Craig
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 20:42:31 -0500
From: "Craig Hodges" <
ahodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: How much $$ to ship a car
I just shipped a VR4 from Salem,
Oregon to Houston, TX it was $975.00 I
used
A AAAdvantage
Auto Transport, Inc.
8920 South Hardy
Tempe, AZ
85284
Fax: (810) 816-1991
My Sales Rep was Victoria Williams
(800)233-4875 x142 .
They have a web site
http://www.carmoves.com/mainpage.asp
but most of the
features ie. tracking don't work, but other than the website
not being too
great I was satisfied. They picked it up on a Sat. and
delivered it to my
house the following Wed. They used a contractor who had
single decker
trailer for 3 cars pulled by a dually pickup. Mine was the last
one off. I
did call around for prices and they were all VERY close. These
guys seemed
"bigger" than the others and they offered to give me
references which I
called 2 and both were OK. That's my experience
:)
Craig
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 22:25:52 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Motor Oil
Its probly my fault.
Redline advertises..and
will test..to well into 25,000 mile useage and retain
the chemical and
physical properties required by the specific service-rating the
oil is listed
to meet.
Blah...blah...blah..
This is an important number and fact
for service fleet vehicles, and your mental
milage may vary..im not sayin to
should leave oil in for 25K miles...just that
they stand behind the product
should you decide to use thier intervals..and you
should have no
problems.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lasher [
mailto:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
Sent:
Saturday, May 13, 2000 2:02 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Motor Oil
Sorry guys, I really didn't mean to start world
war three over what
motor oil eveyone uses. I just had never heard a
professional, unbiased
opinion of Amsoil.
As for them trying to
"sham the public" into 50,000 mile oil changes,
I'm not sure where
that came from. I'm looking at their product
literature right now, and
nowhere does it say that. They do have a new
oil that they say will
last for 7,500 miles though. I remember that
Mobil 1 used to advertise
their oil would last 25,000 miles, although
they don't push that anymore
since the filtration issue became so
popular. Maybe Amsoil used to make a
similar claim. I don't know.
I'm not trying to push Amsoil,
either. Like I said, I use Mobil 1 or
Castrol Syntec on the street, and
RedLine at the track. I just wanted
some concrete information, or
independant test results that showed how
Amsoil compared to the others.
Someone on the list said:
"You dont want to know how amsoil tested as
-new- oil either."
Well, actually, I *do* want to know how it
tested. Please pass that
along.
- -Steve
'92
VR-4
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 22:26:55 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
Mileage?
I think we can get at least a
set of DOT rated tires out of a tank of gas if we
_had_
to.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 04:54:02 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: NIRA
drag classes, payouts
Enclosed is a letter sent to NIRA re: the
Drag Classes for AWD cars/OUR
cars.
I went to NIRA site; actually, the
"Street Power 6" class sounds almost
ideal for
us, except for
allowing slicks (which are not "street" but
"RACE"
items).
It allows removing backseat interior up to front
seats; must be full
frame; real GLASS;
allows lightweight HOOD, not all
light bodywork; turbo/NOS ok; STOCK
driveline.
Most of us here with AWD
cars would likely be happy/reasonably
competetive,
though Supras with
slicks would beat us so far. Still, we'd provide a
show and
not be
totally out of the game.
Problem: they pay out a max of $500 for event
win while PRO classes pay
out between
$2000 and $5000--for tubeframed
Hondas etc with little or no relation to
any REAL car,
that real people
relate to. No respect for REAL/non-full-race cars!
NASCAR/NHRA all over
again. Fine racing! but unrealistic for most of
us, IMHO.
I let
the RACE car people like Brent Rau, Extreme/Sean Glazar, Dave
Buschur,
even
Art Shevack argue the "Pro" class AWD argument, that is
different class
than my stuff,
which will remain real Street/Roadcourse
oriented.
Anyway, this is what I wrote:
RE: DRAG CLASSES,
PAYOUTS FOR "STREET" ARE TOO LOW!
DEAR NIRA:
I disagree with
your classes in that you are totally supporting tube
framed,
lexan,
unstreetable race cars with payouts of significance,
while
alloting
RELATIVELY pitiful payouts (and therefore respect) to the
Street
Classes.
I still have the "World's Quickest and Fastest
3000GT/Stealth", a full
bodied
car with power windows, heater,
lights, wipers, run on roadcourse and
drags
and on street, 10.81 @ 128.44
in 6/1997 (I was in 1/97 Turbo Magazine
feature).
I plan to get the car
out again and go somewhat quicker this year.
PROBLEM: what class to run
in. It looks like the "Street Power 6" is
ideal, seems like a
"real street" class (except for allowing slicks)
that
the
average fan/mag reader can TRULY IDENTIFY with (unlike
tubeframed
Frankenstein-Mobiles in the PRO classes)...but...it pays out
between
one-fourth
and ONE-TENTH what the "Pro" classes
do!
Super "STREET" magazine...etc...point is, FULL RACE cars
are fine but
the average
fan can't relate as much. HELP IMPORT
RACING SUPPORT REAL CARS, don't
turn your NIRA FULLY into the mutated
race-only NHRA pro classes.
IMPORT
people pride themselves on NOT JUST
DRAGS but on HANDLING/STYLE/looking
cool on the
street, for REAL.
SUPPORT THAT!
GIVE STREET CLASSES SOME RESPECT...and SUPPORT...this is
reflected in
PAYOUTS,
otherwise it is literally just worthless
talk.
AGAIN, I am happy and impressed with the "Power 6" rules,
it seems to be
a "real street"
class except for allowing slicks
= NOT street. Of course, if I am
reading things
wrong and this
allows RWD turbo Buicks/American cars then
forget it. Also, hope it
does NOT allow cars like RX7's and
Supras to change rearend/suspension
(ladder bar/4-link), use SLICKS.
AWD cars can compete UNTIL FULL SLICKS are
allowed,
then (as proven well by NHRA and Supras now) RWD rules
all.
Remember, AWD cars like Eclipse/Talons, 3000GT's, etc
are
essentially UNABLE to change to a "stronger transmission/transfer
case"
if they make alot of power--NOBODY MAKES ANY UPGRADE/ULTRA DUTY
stuff
for
them. They NEED a "REASONABLE" class like this,
not one that allows
slicks/RWD/very altered suspension/any
transmission.
Please, don't become an organization whose
"street" classes end up
with rules that make almost every winning
car a "67 Camaro"(=Supra),
like NHRA
has sometimes been. I
am very enthusiastic about NIRA, and am likely to
join
and participate--if
the classes are logical and not skewed to FWD Honda
Tubeframes, and Supras
everywhere.
Help Street, and specifically Power 6, have Competition,
Payout and
VARIETY!...
not a parade of 50 Supras with slicks
(yawn).
Thank you for your concern;
I hope the logic and truth of what
I said hits home.
Please feell free to contact me!
Sincerely,
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 11:16:37 -0400
From: "Heikki Pikkujamsa" <
hpikkujamsa@compuserve.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor Oil
I checked the magazine's website for the article
but unfortunately it was
not available on line. I'll try to get a copy of the
test and will translate
it. It was written in Finnish language. Amsoil and
Redline were not included
in the test since these brands are not readily
available in Scandinavia. The
test included synthetics at least from Mobil,
Castrol, Shell, Exxon and
Valvoline.
Heikki
'92 RT TT
Steve
Lasher wrote:
> I would be very much interested in the test - but only
if you can
translate it without much problem. What language is it >
> originally in?
Is it available on-line at another web site? Was
Amsoil and/or RedLine
included in the test? Thanks in > > >
Advance.
>
> -Steve
> '92 VR-4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 12:05:10 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Proper oil for rear end and transfer case
No, use Shockproof in the
Transfer Case only!
That doesn't communicate fluids to the Transaxle,
so
transfer case fluid choice won't affect shifting.
For Transaxle, can use
Redline MT90, BG Synchroshift, whatever.
For Rearend, use Redline 75w90,
Mobil 1 gear oil, whatever.
JT
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> So what
are you saing about the transfer case?
> Use shockproof..but it'll cause
shifting problems? That sounds like a
> problem waiting to
happen.
>
>
> On Sun, 14 May 2000, xwing wrote:
> >
Use Redline Shockproof Heavy Gear Oil for transfer case, for sure; it has
the
> > best GEAR PROTECTION ability. (It will NOT work as well
with transmission
> > synchronizers because it is too slippery for
synchro to work fully).
> > Rearend, use a synthetic 75w90 or so gear
oil, like Mobil 1 or Redline.
> > 5 speed transfer case holds 0.29
quarts;
> > 6 speed transfer case holds 0.32 quarts.
> >
Rearend holds 1.16 quarts.
> > Jack Tertadian
>
> >
TALONRULES@aol.com wrote:
> > >
Hello everyone, Does anyone know what proper oil should be used in the
>
> > Transfer case and rear end for an AWD stealth? Any idea how much
each one
> > > holds?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 11:21:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Proper oil for rear end and transfer case
Ok..thats more
clear..thanks!
- ---
Spoken to me on the net
recently:
"You're obviously psychotic.
Goodbye."
Actually, this was the first sensible statement the person
has actually made. YMMV.
- ---
On Sun, 14 May 2000, xwing
wrote:
> No, use Shockproof in the Transfer Case only!
> That
doesn't communicate fluids to the Transaxle,
> so transfer case fluid
choice won't affect shifting.
>
> For Transaxle, can use Redline
MT90, BG Synchroshift, whatever.
> For Rearend, use Redline 75w90, Mobil 1
gear oil, whatever.
> JT
>
> Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
> > So what are you saing about the transfer case?
> > Use
shockproof..but it'll cause shifting problems? That sounds like a
>
> problem waiting to happen.
> >
> >
> > On Sun,
14 May 2000, xwing wrote:
> > > Use Redline Shockproof Heavy Gear
Oil for transfer case, for sure; it has the
> > > best GEAR
PROTECTION ability. (It will NOT work as well with transmission
>
> > synchronizers because it is too slippery for synchro to work
fully).
> > > Rearend, use a synthetic 75w90 or so gear oil, like
Mobil 1 or Redline.
> > > 5 speed transfer case holds 0.29
quarts;
> > > 6 speed transfer case holds 0.32 quarts.
> >
> Rearend holds 1.16 quarts.
> > > Jack Tertadian
>
>
> > >
TALONRULES@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> Hello everyone, Does anyone know what proper oil should be used in
the
> > > > Transfer case and rear end for an AWD stealth?
Any idea how much each one
> > > > holds?
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 May 2000 16:20:29 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
I don't know if this is common or not, but when
I've disconnected the
battery (for various reasons, - K&N, fuel filter,
engine cleaning, etc.) the
mileage on the first tank after that is about
2-3mpg lower than normal. I'm
guessing this is because the ECU is still
"learning" how you drive and how
to get the best mileage. I'd
imagine the reset defaults in the ECU are not
very optimized.
my
2hp...
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 70,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil
filter
*** No more ticking lash adjusters(since 07/99)!
***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)
66,000mi
Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the road"
tires (must fix)
Battery:1, Erik:0
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #136
*********************