team3s
Saturday, May 13
2000
Volume 01 : Number
135
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 16:34:14 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need a job?
Benetton Looking for New Test Driver
Friday,
May 12, 2000
LONDON (Reuters) - The Benetton Formula One team
confirmed on Friday that
they were looking for a new test driver to replace
Japan's Hidetoshi
Mitsusada.
A team spokeswoman said Mitsusada, who
was appointed in January but has so
far failed to qualify in his debut season
in Formula 3000 with the WRT
team, would not be doing further testing for
Benetton.
Benetton gave Italian Giorgio Pantano his first outing in a
Formula One car
at the Jerez track in southern Spain on Thursday and said in
a statement
afterwards that it was "part of an evaluation for the role
of Benetton's
test driver."
Pantano, 21, is currently racing in
German Formula Three and Benetton said
he made good progress over 12 laps.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 16:57:09 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake cooling fans
For those folks who asked to be told when I
found the NASCAR brake duct
fans, here's the site:
http://www.bsrproducts.com/Click
to air ducts, find the motors, and wait for the pictures to paint up.
The
one on the left (the small white one) allegedly puts out 145 cfm and
costs
$22.
The one in the middle allegedly puts out 175 cfm and costs $18. At
least,
that's what the guy on the phone said.
They say they sell them by
the truckload for brake cooling.
I ordered the bigger/cheaper one, and am
hoping it fits in there OK.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 17:16:18 EDT
From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
apexi avc-r boost controller
I just bought a Apexi boost controller. Can
anyone give me any information on
how to install it myself? I cant find the
Engine Control Unit or the
wastegate solenoid. Also what is the stock boost
of a 1992 VR-4 and how much
can I turn it up? the only other mod that is
done to the car is a K&N fipk.
Thank you Very Much
Alex
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 19:19:56 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Motor Oil
I thought I'd throw this out as food for thought. My
Father used to work
with a Petroleum Engineer who never changed his oil, he
only changed the
filter every 3000 mile. His thinking was that the bad
particles are trapped
in the filter and oil never wears out. The only
thing he would do is add a
quart when and if it needed it. I don't
recommend or do this myself, just
thought I'd bring this up as one guys
approach.
As for comparison I posted this link which contains basic
product data which
can be obtained from any manufacture:
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html.
Just FYI.
Also I have to agree, filters don't remove the extremely small
particles,
but does or would it matter. I mean if these bits and pieces
are smaller
than the tolerances in our engines does it really
matter?
Now one thing I do because I am concerned about metal particles
running
around my engine is I use a magnetic vest, which is a band that
contains
four magnets and goes on the outside of the filter to hopefully
attract any
very small metal shaving, that would normally not be trapped in
the filter,
to stay in the filter and be attracted to the magnet on the sides
of the
filter. I also pre load my filters before I install them.
I pour new oil
in the new filter until it is completely adsorbed and almost
full. My
thinking is that this saves the oil pump from having to full
the entire
filter before transferring it down the line and saves the engine
from
possibly running without lubrication. I have been told that the
hardest
thing on your engine is starting it, due to no oil pressure at
initial start
up.
As for oil filters here is something I found, which
some of you may find
interesting:
http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html
Regarding
oil filters how much filtration is necessary and if the filter has
too much
filtration, will the filter act as a restriction in the
system? As the
filters become dirty do they filter better?
I had
heard, I am not sure if it was here or not someone expressing concern
that
the new Mobil 1 filter may filter too much and maybe too restrictive
for our
engines, and they recommended the Pure 1 filters as the best for
our
cars.
My two cents anyway,
Dave Best
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Greg S. <
wizards@mhtc.net>
To: Basol, John
<
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 12, 2000 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Motor Oil
>
I'm with you John ... I've read a couple of experts say that the
single
BEST
> thing the typical driver can do to preserve the life of
their vehicle is
change
> the oil and change it often. Several
have said that if you wanted to go
to the
> time and expensive of
changing your oil and filter every single day, the
engine
> would
virtually never wear out. Now changing the oil daily is far from
>
practical, but it does support what you've said about the pit
crews.
>
> With modern synthetic oils, thermal breakdown is
virtually irrelevant
today, but
> even the best filter on the market
isn't going to completely remove all of
the
> contaminants, metal
particles, etc. that accumulate in the oil .... and
those
>
contaminants are certainly not helping the engine any. As an
example,
look at
> your oil when brand new and after it's been used ...
something is turning
it
> into that black-as-night liquid, because it
certainly doesn't look that
way
> going in ... ta dah
contaminants. Consumers Reports says that any name
brand
>
synthetic will last virtually forever, but for the longest engine life,
it
> should be changed (with filter) every 7 - 8,000 miles. I do
(and almost
> everyone I know) do them one better by changing it once
every 2 - 3,000
miles.
>
>
>
> "Basol,
John" wrote:
>
> > I'm aware they recommend changing the
filter. I find it extremely
difficult
> > to believe that it
does not get dirty, even with frequent filter
changes. I
> >
do find it easily acceptable to create a lubricant that can
maintain
film
> > strength for extended periods of time. It's
simply the dirt issue I
can't
> > overlook. Perhaps I am too
old school, but the extremely small
financial,
> > and time
investment into oil changes just doesn't seem to outweigh the
risk
>
> involved, in my mind anyway. I've rarely heard professional pit
crews
say
> > "Gee, if only we hadn't changed the oil so
often." The few
> > semi-professional teams I know change
oil after every event. Perhaps
that
> > is a bit drastic, but
I bet they look at it the same way I do....cheap
> > insurance.
>
>
> > John Basol
> > Wasting oil all over the place
:-)
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 17:13:01 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Motor Oil
And I agree, I dont think any race team would use oil
for more than the one-day
race at _all_ anyway..but were not talking race
prepared and abused cars.
And "dirt" is a relative term,
"dirt" as in visual discoloration which may/may
NOT affect actual
performance/film/use, or "dirt" as measured by how efficient
your
oil filter is.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Basol, John [
mailto:jbasol@Carlson.com]
Sent: Friday,
May 12, 2000 9:06 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Motor Oil
I'm aware they recommend changing the
filter. I find it extremely difficult
to believe that it does not get
dirty, even with frequent filter changes. I
do find it easily
acceptable to create a lubricant that can maintain film
strength for extended
periods of time. It's simply the dirt issue I can't
overlook.
Perhaps I am too old school, but the extremely small financial,
and time
investment into oil changes just doesn't seem to outweigh the risk
involved,
in my mind anyway. I've rarely heard professional pit crews
say
"Gee, if only we hadn't changed the oil so often." The
few
semi-professional teams I know change oil after every event.
Perhaps that
is a bit drastic, but I bet they look at it the same way I
do....cheap
insurance.
John Basol
Wasting oil all over the
place :-)
-----Original Message-----
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com [
SMTP:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 12, 2000 10:44 AM
To:
jbasol@Carlson.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Motor Oil
Nobody said you had to leave the filter there for
50k miles..
A little common sense
please.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 17:13:50 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
So whats kept Todd from doing
this?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 12, 2000 1:55 PM
To: Matt Jannusch
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
> I know that it doesn't plug
into the OBD-II style connector, and I know that
OBD-II tools don't work on
the ECU, even though it has an OBD-II connector (I
tried anyways, despite
what people said - mostly because I am desperate to
have
datalogging).
>
> My question is: Has anyone tried to
graft an OBD-II connector (connecing the
proper pins) onto a TMO Datalogger
and get it to talk to the OBD-I ECU, and was
it successful or
not?
There was a small thread last November about this. Apparently
the '94-'95 cars
are not OBD I or OBD II, but some hybrid. Most likely,
just a connector will
not do the trick.
What needs to be done is
someone with experience comparable to Todd Day has to
get in and do the
software. It really shouldn't be too hard as long as the
'94-'95
protocol can be obtained.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view
never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 17:14:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apexi avc-r boost controller
Alex,
Congratulations on
deciding to take this project on yourself. I
think you fill find it a bit
easier if you have service manuals
to guide you in finding the locations and
characteristics of
relavent items (such as the ECU). They can be purchased
through
a Dodge or Mitsu dealer for about $70 each, or ALL manuals can
be
purchased on CD for $35 from Vineet Singh at
http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/3scd/The
$1000 ECU is located next to your right foot (when it is on
the acceleration
pedal), behind the carpet, in front of the
radio, with all the wires going
into it. You will have to remove
the carpet from both sides of the center
console (they snap,
screw, and slide into place) if you want to un-mount it
for
easier access. Ground yourself before handling it; count pin
numbers
as well as using wire colors; the 3 connectors have
releases on top to make
them easier to work on.
The wastegate solenoid (or boost solenoid) is on
the firewall
kindof close to the battery. It is the one closest to
the
driver's side on early models and has 2 hoses and one
electrical
connection. The hoses go to the wastgates on the turbos. If
you
have installed your new BC then you can disconnect the
electrical
connector and the lower hose (plug the opening).
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992
Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 12, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: apexi avc-r boost
controller
I just bought a Apexi boost controller. Can anyone give me
any
information on how to install it myself? I cant find the
Engine
Control Unit or the wastegate solenoid. Also what is the
stock
boost of a 1992 VR-4 and how much can I turn it up? the only
other
mod that is done to the car is a K&N fipk. Thank you Very
Much
Alex
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 17:45:13 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
Todd is a DSM guy. I speculate
that he thinks it is not worth the trouble to
develop only to sell a handful
(less than a dozen) to 3KGT/Stealth owners.
If no one on any of the 3SI
lists is capable, maybe we should approach Todd,
take advanced orders, put
the money with a 3rd party escrow, and convince him to
develop the datalogger
for '94-'95 and also OBD II cars too. Current OBD II
scan tools don't
have knock detection or knock counts.
> So whats kept Todd from
doing this?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken
Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 1:55 PM
> To: Matt Jannusch
> Cc:
Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
>
>
> I know that it doesn't plug into the OBD-II style connector, and I know
that
> OBD-II tools don't work on the ECU, even though it has an OBD-II
connector (I
> tried anyways, despite what people said - mostly because I
am desperate to have
> datalogging).
> >
> > My question
is: Has anyone tried to graft an OBD-II connector (connecing the
>
proper pins) onto a TMO Datalogger and get it to talk to the OBD-I ECU, and
was
> it successful or not?
>
> There was a small thread last
November about this. Apparently the '94-'95 cars
> are not OBD I or
OBD II, but some hybrid. Most likely, just a connector will
> not do
the trick.
>
> What needs to be done is someone with experience
comparable to Todd Day has to
> get in and do the software. It
really shouldn't be too hard as long as the
> '94-'95 protocol can be
obtained.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 18:42:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
Lets find out what it would
cost.
Everyone has a reasonable number.
- ---
I LUV YOU VIRUS
UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you decided to
open an attachment listed as
a love letter from nobody you know? This
isnt a virus thats choking Email server, its
intelligently deciding who
should have thier computers taken away by force.
- ---
On Fri, 12 May
2000, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Todd is a DSM guy. I speculate that
he thinks it is not worth the trouble to
> develop only to sell a handful
(less than a dozen) to 3KGT/Stealth owners.
>
> If no one on any of
the 3SI lists is capable, maybe we should approach Todd,
> take advanced
orders, put the money with a 3rd party escrow, and convince him to
>
develop the datalogger for '94-'95 and also OBD II cars too. Current OBD
II
> scan tools don't have knock detection or knock counts.
>
>
> > So whats kept Todd from doing this?
> >
>
> -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
> Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 1:55 PM
> > To: Matt Jannusch
>
> Cc: Team3S
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a
'95?
> >
> > > I know that it doesn't plug into the OBD-II
style connector, and I know that
> > OBD-II tools don't work on the
ECU, even though it has an OBD-II connector (I
> > tried anyways,
despite what people said - mostly because I am desperate to have
> >
datalogging).
> > >
> > > My question is: Has
anyone tried to graft an OBD-II connector (connecing the
> > proper
pins) onto a TMO Datalogger and get it to talk to the OBD-I ECU, and was
>
> it successful or not?
> >
> > There was a small thread
last November about this. Apparently the '94-'95 cars
> > are not
OBD I or OBD II, but some hybrid. Most likely, just a connector
will
> > not do the trick.
> >
> > What needs to be
done is someone with experience comparable to Todd Day has to
> > get
in and do the software. It really shouldn't be too hard as long as
the
> > '94-'95 protocol can be obtained.
>
> --
>
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 19:45:38 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Motor Oil
This engineer obviously wasn't well versed in his own
technology or didn't
care about his car's engine.
The chains of the
molecules which make up oil and make it maintain a certain
viscosity
(required by the engine for healthy lubrication) break down over
time from at
least three very real conditions that occur in a conventional
internal
combustion engine:
1) heat cycling and extremes of heat ("flash
heating") throughout the engine
at various friction points
2)
chelating from being beat up by sharp surfaces
3) impurities introduced by
additives in the oil eventually oxidizing
(either burning or from normal
exposure to atmosphere), the leakage between
the crankcase and the
combustion chamber (present in every conventional
engine to some degree or
another), leaks between the cooling system and the
oil system (typically not
there but small leaks are possible without being
noticed), and exposure to
the atmosphere (always present to some degree)
where all sorts of things can
introduce impurities
"Too good" of a filter is not recommended
as it can be too restrictive for
proper flow and pressure. Some even
claim a slightly dirty filter works
better than a new one as some of the gunk
that gets caught by the filter
will catch smaller bits of gunk a plain filter
would not catch. While this
is plausible, the returns would diminish
rapidly (presuming it is true) so
this is not a suggestion to use dirty
filters.
I was trying to find a series of research papers performed by an
independant
lab which had been charged with finding the best oil for
roadracing. Data
was gathered from the spent oil of several cars
(American V8s seeing road
race only use) over the course of two
seasons. I could not find this link
so if it rings a bell with anyone
it may be of use. I really want to say
that Mobil 1 faired favorably as
I recall, but since I cannot get my hands
on the reports (which seemed to be
properly done) I am hesitant to make that
statement as fact. I think
Shell and Castrol products faired well too.
The gist of one of the
reports I recall reading was that, for street and
high-performance
street/track use, any of the big name synthetics provided
superior
protection. While some were theoretically better there was
no
apprecable performance improvement in terms of longevity or increased
power.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I
thought I'd throw this out as food for thought. My Father used to
work
> with a Petroleum Engineer who never changed his oil, he only
changed the
> filter every 3000 mile. His thinking was that the bad
particles
> are trapped
> in the filter and oil never wears
out. The only thing he would
> do is add a
> quart when and if
it needed it. I don't recommend or do this myself, just
> thought
I'd bring this up as one guys
approach.
<snipped>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 20:17:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: apexi avc-r boost controller
- -----Original Message-----From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com>I just bought a
Apexi boost controller. Can anyone give me any
information on
>how to
install it myself? I cant find the Engine Control Unit or the
>wastegate
solenoid. Also what is the stock boost of a 1992 VR-4 and how
much
>can
I turn it up? the only other mod that is done to the car is a
K&N
fipk.
>Thank you Very Much Alex
Errrr..... we
have the FAQ pages on the Team3S website to help you out
with the
install... Ken Middaugh has an excellent article there that
should give
you a good start. It's under "modifications"...
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htmBest,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 May 2000 23:04:07 -0500
From: "Craig Hodges" <
ahodges@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
I have recently gotten a 99 VR4 and I have a 99
SL (which I'd like to sell
by the way). In the SL I consistently got
18.5-19.5 MPG in town driving. On
the VR4 I am getting 13 MPG. I have put a
K&N FIPK on the VR4, disconnected
the battery (overnight) (the MAS
connector is correctly attached)
reconnected the battery started up and let
the car run in place for about 5
min. then headed down the street. Other than
the FIPK the car is stock. Has
it been your experience to get 13 MPG, better,
worse, did I do something
wrong? Any comments would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Craig
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 23:08:26 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
How do you drive??? That is
horrible.... I get also 19 MPG in my SL
around town... I know
VR-4's get around the same - maybe a ~little~ less.
It is probably your
driving habits... I know in my Eclipse - I get
hhorrible gasmilage just
because I like to hear the turbo spool... When
anyone else drives it,
they get great gas milage...
- -Cody
#-----Original
Message-----
#From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st#[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Craig Hodges
#Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 11:04 PM
#To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st#Subject:
Team3S: VR 4 Gas mileage?
#
#
#I have recently gotten a 99 VR4 and I
have a 99 SL (which I'd like to sell
#by the way). In the SL I
consistently got 18.5-19.5 MPG in town
#driving. On
#the VR4 I am getting
13 MPG. I have put a K&N FIPK on the VR4, disconnected
#the battery
(overnight) (the MAS connector is correctly attached)
#reconnected the
battery started up and let the car run in place for about 5
#min. then headed
down the street. Other than the FIPK the car is stock. Has
#it been your
experience to get 13 MPG, better, worse, did I do something
#wrong? Any
comments would be appreciated.
#Thanks
#Craig
#
#
#***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 12 May 2000 21:39:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR
4 Gas mileage?
15-18 MPG around town is pretty typical for a stock
VR4.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> How
do you drive??? That is horrible.... I get also 19
> MPG in my
SL
> around town... I know VR-4's get around the same - maybe a
~little~ less.
> It is probably your driving habits... I know in my
Eclipse - I get
> hhorrible gasmilage just because I like to hear the
turbo spool... When
> anyone else drives it, they get great gas
milage...
>
> -Cody
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 01:27:58 EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: two very
simple quesitons
Alright, guys, don't laugh at me, but I have a couple of
very basic questions.
1.) What exactly is the resonator bottle in the
intake responsible for doing?
2.) On a '94 GT, I have used the jackpoints
recommended in the service
manual, but they jacking portion seems become
slightly bent and damaged by
the jackstands, so I have stopped using that as
jackpoints. I already know
where to lift it using my regular jack, but I
need someone here to help me
out with an area where I can place jackstands
on the front of the car. And
yes, I have already looked at John Adams web
page - and the jackpoints for
the jackstands don't seem to be safe for my
car since John Adams has a '91
and I have a '94.... I need some places to
put jackstands on a '94.
Thanks in
advance!
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 01:13:09 -0500
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
Technically the cars are OBD I.
They are OBD I certified and as far as I
know OBD I is proprietary from
manufacturer to manufacturer (the big "thing"
with OBD II is the
standardization of hardware and firmware.) Looking at my
Spyder, it
looks like the hardware is from a OBD II car, but the firmware
had not been
implemented yet. What someone could do is count the pins on
either
connector ('91-93 and '94-95), then if the numbers happen to
magically match,
take a volt meter and match the corresponding pins. If by
some miracle
you could get that far, it wouldn't be hard to make an
adapter.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Middaugh"
<
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
"Matt Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Cc:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, May 12, 2000 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a
'95?
> There was a small thread last November about this.
Apparently the '94-'95
cars
> are not OBD I or OBD II, but some
hybrid. Most likely, just a connector
will
> not do the
trick.
>
> What needs to be done is someone with experience
comparable to Todd Day
has to
> get in and do the software. It
really shouldn't be too hard as long as
the
> '94-'95 protocol can be
obtained.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 03:10:46 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: two very simple quesitons
- -----Original Message-----From:
AABOMB1@aol.com>Alright, guys,
don't laugh at me, but I have a couple of very
basic
questions.
>
>1.) What exactly is the resonator bottle in
the intake responsible for
doing?
The answer to this one is on
the Team3S FAQ pages, under "NT Mods -
Removing the
Resonator".
F
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 10:37:38 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR 4 Gas mileage?
Congratulation on your VR4 purchase. I purchase
my car (VR4) new in 92 and
when I first got my car the gas mileage wasn't
very good until it was broken
in a bit. It took me about 1000 to
1500 miles, before I started to see
improvement. I remember everything
was very tight, nothing was loose and
the engine wasn't very free revving
until it was broken in a bit.
Now with almost 86K on it I getting between
18 - 20 around town and once got
almost 27 mpg on the highway.
You may
also want to try a different gasoline, I have found mine seem to run
better
on Mobil than Amoco, Shell and Texaco are both OK but not quite as
good as
Amoco, so you may want to switch gas brands and see what happens.
Good
luck and take of that VR4, I heard only 50 were sent to the US so you
may
have a collectors car in the not too distance future.
Dave
Best
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Hodges <
ahodges@houston.rr.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 17, 2000 12:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR 4 Gas
mileage?
> I have recently gotten a 99 VR4 and I have a 99 SL
(which I'd like to sell
> by the way). In the SL I consistently got
18.5-19.5 MPG in town driving.
On
> the VR4 I am getting 13 MPG. I have
put a K&N FIPK on the VR4,
disconnected
> the battery (overnight)
(the MAS connector is correctly attached)
> reconnected the battery
started up and let the car run in place for about
5
> min. then headed
down the street. Other than the FIPK the car is stock.
Has
> it been
your experience to get 13 MPG, better, worse, did I do something
>
wrong? Any comments would be appreciated.
> Thanks
>
Craig
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 11:43:25 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: two very simple quesitons
> 2.) On a '94 GT, I have used the
jackpoints recommended in
> the service manual, but they jacking portion
seems become
> slightly bent and damaged by the jackstands, so I
have
> stopped using that as jackpoints. I already know where
to
> lift it using my regular jack, but I need someone here to
>
help me out with an area where I can place jackstands on
> the front of
the car. And yes, I have already looked at
> John Adams web page - and the
jackpoints for the jackstands
> don't seem to be safe for my car since
John Adams has a '91
> and I have a '94.... I need some places to put
jackstands
> on a '94.
Don't put the jackstands on the
"jacking rail" under the door. You actually want to put stands
on the hoist locations, which are about six inches more towards the center of
the car (towards the driveshaft). You'll see a rather thin-looking piece
of metal behind the jacking rail, then a flat solid-looking surface right behind
the engine compartment. Put the jackstands there and you'll be in good
shape.
I would not recommend using John's jackstand placements (no
offense, John). The hoist locations are slightly behind the pictures that
John shows on his website for the front locations. If you move the
jackstand straight towards the back of the car from the locations shown, you are
on the hoist plate - the proper place for the stands. Use stands with a
flat section on the top. If the stand has lips on the edges, that will be
okay, although the lips might get bent down from the weight of the car (it is
nearly 1000 pounds per stand!).
If you use stands on the rear, place them
on the circular plates near the front suspension arm. Use a 2x4 on top of
the stand to protect the large nut and stud coming through the center of the
plate - the stud/nut will crush into the 2x4, but not damage
anything.
Those are the four most sturdy (and flat) locations to put
jackstands, as they are all very strong attachments directly to the
frame.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 11:51:17 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
> Technically the cars are OBD
I. They are OBD I certified and
> as far as I know OBD I is
proprietary from manufacturer to
> manufacturer (the big "thing"
with OBD II is the standardization
> of hardware and firmware.)
Looking at my Spyder, it looks like
> the hardware is from a OBD II car,
but the firmware had not been
> implemented yet. What someone could
do is count the pins on
> either connector ('91-93 and '94-95), then if
the numbers happen to
> magically match, take a volt meter and match the
corresponding
> pins. If by some miracle you could get that far, it
wouldn't be
> hard to make an adapter.
That's what I was
thinking... It seems unlikely that Mitsubishi would create a new OBD-I
standard just for the '94-95 cars, knowing that they would need to migrate to
OBD-II in 1996 anyways. Theoretically, it would make more sense to convert
to OBD-II style harnesses and the "new" ECU connectors so that they
wouldn't have to change electrical systems for 1996, but still use their
previous OBD-I "standard" in the ECU - just on different pins in the
real OBD-II connector. That way they could still use their OBD-I
scan-tool, just with an adaptor.
Does anyone know for sure if I'm on the
right track? I have no problems with getting the TMO datalogger and trying
to make an adaptor to connect it to the right pins, I'm just wondering if
someone has already tried to go down this path and has failed. Does the
Mitsu scan tool from '91-93 work on '94-95 ECUs with a different connector
attached (and maybe software for new features)?
If it doesn't work, I'm
not looking forward to building some sort of data-aquisition system for my
car. That would truly suck, compared to the simplicity of just buying the
TMO Datalogger and making a connector (I could use the OBD-II connector from the
scan tool I just bought).
I'll dig out my electrical manual and see if
the pins map together in any meaningful way... That seems like the best
place to start since it sounds like nobody has attempted this yet.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 12:54:21 -0400
From: "Bob_Rand" <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Crank Position Sensor HELP!
Hey Gang, I want to set my basic
timing, but; for the life of me I cannot
see how to adjust the crank angle
sensor. I am from to old,old school
where you turned the
distributor to adjust timing. The manual does not
explain the
proceedure to do this job. Would someone please give me
the
details.
Thanks, Bob
93 Stealth
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 11:03:01 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
There is more information about the
subject of OBD at the very end of
the FAQ page, in the Q&A
"Detail" section...
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htm
F
-
-----Original Message-----From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>>
Technically the cars are OBD I. They are OBD I certified and
>>
as far as I know OBD I is proprietary from manufacturer to
>>
manufacturer (the big "thing" with OBD II is the
standardization
>> of hardware and firmware.) Looking at my
Spyder, it looks like
>> the hardware is from a OBD II car, but the
firmware had not been
>> implemented yet. What someone could do
is count the pins on
>> either connector ('91-93 and '94-95), then if
the numbers happen to
>> magically match, take a volt meter and match
the corresponding
>> pins. If by some miracle you could get that
far, it wouldn't be
>> hard to make an adapter.
>
>That's
what I was thinking... It seems unlikely that Mitsubishi would
create a
new OBD-I standard just for the '94-95 cars, knowing that they
would need to
migrate to OBD-II in 1996 anyways. Theoretically, it
would make more
sense to convert to OBD-II style harnesses and the "new"
ECU
connectors so that they wouldn't have to change electrical systems
for 1996,
but still use their previous OBD-I "standard" in the ECU -
just on
different pins in the real OBD-II connector. That way they
could still
use their OBD-I scan-tool, just with an adaptor.
>
>Does anyone know
for sure if I'm on the right track? I have no
problems with getting the
TMO datalogger and trying to make an adaptor
to connect it to the right pins,
I'm just wondering if someone has
already tried to go down this path and has
failed. Does the Mitsu scan
tool from '91-93 work on '94-95 ECUs with a
different connector attached
(and maybe software for new
features)?
>
>If it doesn't work, I'm not looking forward to
building some sort of
data-aquisition system for my car. That would
truly suck, compared to
the simplicity of just buying the TMO Datalogger and
making a connector
(I could use the OBD-II connector from the scan tool I
just bought).
>
>I'll dig out my electrical manual and see if the
pins map together in
any meaningful way... That seems like the best
place to start since it
sounds like nobody has attempted this
yet.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 13:10:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO Datalogger on a '95?
Ooooooooooops!!!
Hey,
guys/gals... That info is on the "Netspeak/Acronyms" page
(Sorry
Matt!)
.../FAQnetspeak.htm
- -----Original Message-----From:
Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com>
>There is more
information about the subject of OBD at the very end of
>the FAQ page, in
the Q&A "Detail" section...
>
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htm>
>F
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 May 2000 17:02:09 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Motor Oil
Sorry guys, I really didn't mean to start world war
three over what
motor oil eveyone uses. I just had never heard a
professional, unbiased
opinion of Amsoil.
As for them trying to
"sham the public" into 50,000 mile oil changes,
I'm not sure where
that came from. I'm looking at their product
literature right now, and
nowhere does it say that. They do have a new
oil that they say will
last for 7,500 miles though. I remember that
Mobil 1 used to advertise
their oil would last 25,000 miles, although
they don't push that anymore
since the filtration issue became so
popular. Maybe Amsoil used to make a
similar claim. I don't know.
I'm not trying to push Amsoil,
either. Like I said, I use Mobil 1 or
Castrol Syntec on the street, and
RedLine at the track. I just wanted
some concrete information, or
independant test results that showed how
Amsoil compared to the others.
Someone on the list said:
"You dont want to know how amsoil tested as
-new- oil either."
Well, actually, I *do* want to know how it
tested. Please pass that
along.
- -Steve
'92
VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #135
*********************