team3s
Monday, May 8
2000
Volume 01 : Number
129
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 08:46:43 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome
Wheels)
http://www.tgn.net/~gemohler/vr4/home/Dc0021l.JPGhttp://www.tgn.net/~gemohler/vr4/home/Dc0022l.JPGhttp://www.tgn.net/~gemohler/vr4/home/Dc0023l.JPGMetal
center cap (screws on and comes with nylon wrench) included.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [
mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Sunday, May 07, 2000 8:09 PM
To: Jim Berry
Cc: Mohler, Jeff; 'Merritt'; Dg
B;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@dragnet.comSubject: Wheel
selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels)
Actually, the
18x9" Enkei RP01s are 21 lbs each. I think I'm going with
them
since
this a considerable weight savings over my narrower
18x8.5" OZ Monte Carlos @ 28
lbs
each. I thought the RP01s were
about the lightest thing out there.
After haggling for awhile, I've
gotten Discount Tire down to $190 each for the
18x9"
RP01s.
They also praised the durability of the Enkei wheels (may be feeding
me
a
line).
I'm interested in hearing more about the Gewalts (pics
and prices). I want to
make
sure I purchase the best 18" wheel
based on weight, durability, price, and then
looks.
Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
Jim Berry wrote:
> > Ive got 18lb
Gewalts (18x9) on the VR4 now, and theyve taken 10x the abuse
the
>
> OZs did, and are still perfectly round..this includes a number of
pro-ralley
and
> > ralley-cross events as well. $250/wheel I
belive was what we paid. Mag.
alloy.
> >
> >
======================================================
>
> BTW,
where did you get the Gewalts. I see Dazz has them but they are a
>
wholesale house.
>
> Jim Berry
>
> PS.
any comments or thoughts on the RP01s ---- they are a 18# wheel
also.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 08:47:47 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Whee
ls)
Keep in mind the OZs are for racing too, and weve distored and bent a
whole SET
on the heavy VR4.
Beware "rcaing" wheels that are
found on 1800lb Hondas.
Just a note..dunno about any particular brand
other than what Ive used.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry
[
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Sunday,
May 07, 2000 8:27 PM
To: Joe Gonsowski
Cc: Mohler, Jeff; 'Merritt'; Dg B;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@dragnet.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17"
Chrome
Wheels)
> Actually, the 18x9" Enkei RP01s are
21 lbs each. I think I'm going with them
since
> this a
considerable weight savings over my narrower 18x8.5" OZ Monte Carlos
@
28 lbs
> each. I thought the RP01s were about the lightest
thing out there.
>
> After haggling for awhile, I've gotten
Discount Tire down to $190 each for the
18x9"
> RP01s. They
also praised the durability of the Enkei wheels (may be feeding
me a
>
line).
>
> I'm interested in hearing more about the Gewalts (pics
and prices). I want to
make
> sure I purchase the best 18"
wheel based on weight, durability, price, and
then looks.
If
weight is indeed your priority then you should look at Volk or Hart ----
the
17X9 Volk
TE37 weighs in at 15#. The downside is cost --- about $500
each. They are
supposed
to be designed for racing so durability should be
high ?!?!
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 08:48:41 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Whee
ls)
Ohh..I forgot!
You need 1/4" spacers to fit the Gewalts
on if you use a 275/35 tire like we
did, the tire itself would lightly rub
the strut.
The wheel clears nicely by itself.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jim Berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Sunday, May
07, 2000 8:27 PM
To: Joe Gonsowski
Cc: Mohler, Jeff; 'Merritt'; Dg B;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@dragnet.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17"
Chrome
Wheels)
> Actually, the 18x9" Enkei RP01s are
21 lbs each. I think I'm going with them
since
> this a
considerable weight savings over my narrower 18x8.5" OZ Monte Carlos
@
28 lbs
> each. I thought the RP01s were about the lightest
thing out there.
>
> After haggling for awhile, I've gotten
Discount Tire down to $190 each for the
18x9"
> RP01s. They
also praised the durability of the Enkei wheels (may be feeding
me a
>
line).
>
> I'm interested in hearing more about the Gewalts (pics
and prices). I want to
make
> sure I purchase the best 18"
wheel based on weight, durability, price, and
then looks.
If
weight is indeed your priority then you should look at Volk or Hart ----
the
17X9 Volk
TE37 weighs in at 15#. The downside is cost --- about $500
each. They are
supposed
to be designed for racing so durability should be
high ?!?!
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 11:44:26 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Wheel selections
As you guys are talking about wheel
weights...
My Stealth RT/TT CAME with BBS RS 3 peice wheels. Yea, they
aren't the
prettiest (well they are better than stock STEALTH wheels), but
they sure
are light! I weighed them at 17# w/o a tire. I think the stock rims
weighed
around 25-28#'s! You can't imagine how different MY 92 with
17x9.5" wheels
feels compared to a 92 3000GT VR4 with CHROME STOCK
17x?" wheels.
My car feels like a MUCH lighter car, the steering is
MUCH more nimble
(though there is a bit of play in it...). I can also out
accelerate his car,
and we have the same mods! I'm probably .3-4 seconds
quicker than him
(according to the G-tech), and you can feel the difference
anyway. Maybe
it's his active aero crap that's weighing him down even more,
but I think
it's all in the wheels.
When I had 3000gt SL wheels on the
talon, THEY weighed around 25#'s each!
Though they LOOKED pretty nice, I now
have the cheapest USED light wheels I
could find. Yes, I now own ANTERA...
THREE SPOKE wheels!. Don't laugh, guess
what they weigh? 16#'s. You laugh at
my pimpin 3 spoke wheels, and I will
challenge you to a race... you drive my
car with the old 3000gt rims, and I
drive it with the 3 spokes.
I
didn't know that 10+ (40+lbs total) of unsprung weight reduction would
make
the car feel that much different, but it does. Get the lightest and
strongest
wheel you can afford. You will be happy, and as an aside, it
probably puts
less wear on your steering rack(s) and suspension.
BTW, the BBS wheels? I
priced out the replacement costs on one of them, JUST
IN CASE... <gulp>
450-500$ for the complete wheel... NO TIRE! What the hell!
I would NEVER pay
500$ for a friggin wheel... unless it came on the car
<wink>
:)
ONE MORE THING... Tires (tyres) also vary in weights, by as much as
6lbs
(from the 4 that I choose). If you could get 15-16#'s off each corner of
the
car.. you would be hovering above the ground :) Hey, after all that,
you
could fill them with helium (though it would probably
leak).
Vineet Singh
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 May 2000 13:49:03 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fwd: Re: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
Hi
folks,
Well, I have received a reply from Arrow Tire the
same business day as I
sent out the email (my email went out on a
Saturday).
Here it is, just to keep you informed.
Since this topic
only relates to a subset of the group, please email me
directly and I will
keep you informed about this. If I get a *ton* of
replies (which I
doubt), I'll keep the posts on the list.
Regards,
dennis
>From: "arrowtire" <
arrowtire@email.msn.com>
>To:
"Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
>Subject:
Re: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
>Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:57:30
-0700
>Received: from [207.46.181.28] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBAE03E550093D820F3A3CF2EB51C047814; Mon May 08 10:06:27
2000
>Received: from Joey - 206.126.130.66 by email.msn.com with Microsoft
>SMTPSVC; Mon, 8 May 2000 10:04:52 -0700
>From
arrowtire@email.msn.com Mon May 08
10:08:16 2000
>Message-ID: <
005d01bfb90e$7fbdf760$42827ece@clubnet.net>
>References:
<
20000506185851.63934.qmail@hotmail.com>
>Organization:
Microsoft Corporation
>X-Priority: 3
>X-MSMail-Priority:
Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express
5.00.2314.1300
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE
V5.00.2314.1300
>Return-Path:
arrowtire@email.msn.com>
>Hello
Dennis, I believe I do remember you, Dennis Bretton? Is that correct?
>My
apologies if I am wrong. I am not sure what you mean by "rust"
aluminum
>can corrode but it is more of a white flaky powdery kinda of
stuff. The
>peeling is another story, that is fully warranted as long as
there is no
>contact damage. Go ahead and ship the wheels to me and I will
take it from
>there. Please be sure to include all your contact
information, Phone
>number,
>Address, Ect. Thank you,
Brian
>ARROW TIRE & WHEEL
>1693 W. ARROW ROUTE
C-3
>UPLAND, CA. 91786
>Telephone (909) 946-0244
>or Toll free
1-800-884-4349
>Fax number (909) 946-0246
>
arrowtire@msn.com>
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: Dg B <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
>To:
<
arrowtire@msn.com>; <
dbretton@hotmail.com>; <
dbretton@speakeasy.org>
>Sent:
Saturday, May 06, 2000 11:58 AM
>Subject: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome
Wheels
>
>
> > Hello Brian,
> >
>
> Last summer (I believe mid-July) I purchased a set of 4
rechromed
> > Mitsubishi 17" VR-4 wheels from you via an
on-line/telephone transaction
>(if
> > you recall, I had asked
about shipping them in 2 sets of 2 for reasons
>of
> >
transaction security).
> >
> > This weekend I pulled the
wheels out of storage to put on, and noticed
>that
> > there
seems to be quite a bit of rust forming on the inside of the wheel
> >
spokes, and the chrome along the outer lip is peeling.
> >
> >
You had stated that the chroming process comes with a 1 year warranty.
>
>
> > I would like to know if you will honor this warranty for these
wheels,
>as
>it
> > seems they have not lasted.
>
>
> > If you like, I can email pictures of the wheels.
>
>
> > Thank you for your time and assistance. I look forward
to hearing from
>you.
> >
> > Regards,
>
> Dennis
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 12:18:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
Looking for what is considered to be the _best_ IC
and/or plumbing upgrade
for our cars.
- ---
I LUV YOU VIRUS
UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you decided to
open an attachment listed as
a love letter from nobody you know? This
isnt a virus thats choking Email server, its
intelligently deciding who
should have thier computers taken away by force.
-
---
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 22:17:35 +0300
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Team3S: low oil
pressure
Today I was experiencing extremely low oil pressure: one line
from bottom
with 3-4 k rpm. After some time reading came back to normal,
after a while
it was low again. It happened with a warm engine. Any ideas
about the fault?
Should the red light come on when the pressure is one line
from the bottom?
When starting engine, red light is off in the same
second.
I searched in archives, but found only messages about low oil
pressure when
idle. (When idle the reading is two lines from bottom, it
should be normal?)
Best,
Oleg
Reznik,
94'VR4.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 13:39:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
Gota say GTPro's front mount is the best I've seen
so
far.. check it out at Jose's site -->
www.3si.org/amahoserGeorge
'92
RT TT
- --- Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> Looking for what is considered to be the _best_ IC
> and/or
plumbing upgrade
> for our cars.
>
> ---
> I LUV YOU
VIRUS UPDATE!
>
> *Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that
you
> decided to open an attachment listed as
> a love letter from
nobody you know? This isnt a
> virus thats choking Email server,
its
> intelligently deciding who should have thier
> computers taken
away by force.
> ---
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 23:30:55 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
> Gota say GTPro's front mount is the best I've
seen so
> far.. check it out at Jose's site -->
>
www.3si.org/amahoserI may second
that although the stuff isn't cheap ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 May 2000 18:05:25 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: low oil pressure
That sounds bad. First I'll tell you
what you probably have already heard.
That is, our oil pressure gages read
lower than most people expect. Is your oil
level low (sucking air) or
high (counterweights hitting oil, aerating oil)?
When is the last time you
changed the oil? Did you use the proper weight oil
for the climate you
are now driving in?
If none of these point out the reason for low oil
pressure, check it at the
sending unit with a mechanical gage. I
believe the idiot light only comes when
oil pressure is below a certain value
(like 8psi) which is most likely at idle
with hot oil. The idiot light
doesn't have the intelligence to know what is
"low" oil pressure
given engine speed and oil temp, just a low limit value at
which point it
will trip. For instance 15psi is fine at idle and wont trip the
light,
but 15psi at 4,000rpm under full load will fail bearings in a hurry (and
it
still won't trip the light - until it's too late and permanent damage
has
been done). However, typically, if something is wrong and gives you
low oil
pressure at high engine speeds, you will also have low pressures at
idle.
A stuck relief valve in the open position (rare) could cause low
oil pressures.
I'd give your car a fresh oil change and take a reading with a
mechanical gage
at the sending unit if it still looks low to you. Post
your results back to the
list. Don't ignore it, there could be some
engine damage that will only get
worse with time. When you drain your
oil, do so into a clean pan to look for
debris (you can also cut the filter
open).
Later
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
Oleg-Telia
wrote:
> Today I was experiencing extremely low oil pressure: one line
from bottom
> with 3-4 k rpm. After some time reading came back to normal,
after a while
> it was low again. It happened with a warm engine. Any
ideas about the fault?
> Should the red light come on when the pressure is
one line from the bottom?
> When starting engine, red light is off in the
same second.
> I searched in archives, but found only messages about low
oil pressure when
> idle. (When idle the reading is two lines from bottom,
it should be normal?)
>
> Best,
> Oleg Reznik,
>
94'VR4.
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 May 2000 00:05:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: low oil pressure
Oleg,
First, what is the eight of the oil
you are running and have you checked the
level when the engine wasn't very
hot afterwards ?
The oil warning light and the gauge are different
sensors. I always got the
warning light when I used 0W-30. Now I'm using
5W-40 and 10W60 in summer and
the problem goes away. I'm sure it's comming
back in winter again :-/ At
idle, my pressure is right at the normal
line.
In your case, the pressure shown on the gauge is really low,
especially at
4k and the quality of the oil plays a role here too. Also how
long do you
run the same oil ?
> Today I was experiencing
extremely low oil pressure: one line from bottom
> with 3-4 k rpm. After
some time reading came back to normal, after a while
> it was low again.
It happened with a warm engine. Any ideas about the
fault?
> Should the
red light come on when the pressure is one line from the
bottom?
> When
starting engine, red light is off in the same second.
> I searched in
archives, but found only messages about low oil pressure
when
> idle.
(When idle the reading is two lines from bottom, it should
be
normal?)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 15:26:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: IC Upgrades
Does someone want to share some **real** data
concerning
intercooler efficiency so we can make an objective evaluation
on
which is best? We need temperature and pressure right before and
right
after the IC itself. My apologies to the list if this
information is readily
available and I'm just uninformed. I have
custom side mounts from Brian
L.(then GT-Alley) that are about
twice the size of stock. I would guess since
the cooling area is
much larger they would have to be more efficient than
stock.
When I asked Brian about efficiency, he said he had not made
the
required measurements. I am quite willing to do this myself for
my car
as soon as I can purchase and install required pressure
and temperature
probes, not done yet of course. I imagine the
front mounts may be a bit
better than side mounts, but I for one
am unwilling to give up the front
bumper bar if that is
required. Most definately, a highly efficient IC can be
a much
better upgrade than bigger turbos, up to a point of
course.
Jeff "waiting for real IC data" Lucius, 3SI #476
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 15:31:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
Jose has collected the data you are looking
for. I'm
not sure if its on his site.. but I'm sure he will
jump in
soon when he reads this thread.
I believe he got the inlet pipe to 200+
degrees and
the outlet pipe was only 5 degree above outside
temperture..
probably need his confirmation on this..
- --- Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Does someone want to share some **real** data
>
concerning
> intercooler efficiency so we can make an objective
>
evaluation on
> which is best? We need temperature and pressure
>
right before and
> right after the IC itself. My apologies to the
list
> if this
> information is readily available and I'm
just
> uninformed. I have
> custom side mounts from Brian L.(then
GT-Alley) that
> are about
> twice the size of stock. I would guess
since the
> cooling area is
> much larger they would have to be more
efficient
> than stock.
> When I asked Brian about efficiency, he
said he had
> not made the
> required measurements. I am quite
willing to do this
> myself for
> my car as soon as I can purchase
and install
> required pressure
> and temperature probes, not done
yet of course. I
> imagine the
> front mounts may be a bit better
than side mounts,
> but I for one
> am unwilling to give up the
front bumper bar if that
> is
> required. Most definately, a highly
efficient IC can
> be a much
> better upgrade than bigger turbos, up
to a point of
> course.
>
> Jeff "waiting for real IC
data" Lucius, 3SI #476
> Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
> -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do
You Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with
Yahoo!
> Messenger.
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 17:32:58 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
It's gonna be real hard to determine the
difference. There are too many
variations already between a dual setup
and a single intercooler setup.
I guess what would have to be done to
compare would be:
1. pressure/thermistor probes at the throttle
body
2. pressure/thermistor probes right before each intercooler on
dual IC
setups
(or) probes as each IC pipe enters a single IC
setup.
Even with all of this, it will be hard to determine the real
differences.
The best way would be to make some runs to get the car
warmed up, then on a
certain length of road at a certain speed record
temps/pressure at the
throttle body. Then, as soon as say 3-5 runs were
made and recorded,
~quickly~ swap the setup for the dual upgrade IC's, make
another 3-5 runs,
and of course swap yet again to the single IC, recording
yet another 3-5
runs at the throttle body. To do this correctly, the
temperature will have
to stay the same, as well as humidity and wind
speed. So all in one
afternoon
it would have to be done. It is
probably the only real way to test the
differences, because the pressure can
be different for the front ot the rear
turbo (the rear probably runs hotter
than the front, so out of the rear IC
on a dual setup you may get higher
temps than the IC from the front turbo)
This will be hard to compare against
a single input/output.
- -Cody
#Does someone want to share
some **real** data concerning
#intercooler efficiency so we can make an
objective evaluation on
#which is best? We need temperature and pressure
right before and
#right after the IC itself. My apologies to the list if
this
#information is readily available and I'm just uninformed. I
have
#custom side mounts from Brian L.(then GT-Alley) that are
about
#twice the size of stock. I would guess since the cooling area
is
#much larger they would have to be more efficient than stock.
#When I
asked Brian about efficiency, he said he had not made the
#required
measurements. I am quite willing to do this myself for
#my car as soon as I
can purchase and install required pressure
#and temperature probes, not done
yet of course. I imagine the
#front mounts may be a bit better than side
mounts, but I for one
#am unwilling to give up the front bumper bar if that
is
#required. Most definately, a highly efficient IC can be a much
#better
upgrade than bigger turbos, up to a point of course.
#
#Jeff "waiting
for real IC data" Lucius, 3SI #476
#Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
# -->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/#
#
#__________________________________________________
#Do
You Yahoo!?
#Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
#
http://im.yahoo.com/#
#***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 May 2000 02:21:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: IC Upgrades
> My apologies to the list if this information is
readily available and I'm
just uninformed.
Nono, nobody has this
information from a manufacturer as they are saying
that it's their secret. In
reality they just don't know how and where to
measure and some even don't
know what efficiency is. Almost any
"part-developer" we know of is
simply doing something big in the meaning
that it works. Often it does but it
could do better.
The trick is that the WHOLE IC system must be viewed in
the picture. Each
bend in the IC piping causes a loss in pressure and
increase in temperature.
Also the stock IC piping from the drivers side is
mounted to the right head
and is heated up extremely (85°C at the front
side, not the hottest spot).
Eliminating such stupid stuff helps for
sure.
For exact measures, temp and pressure probes should be attached to
:
1. 2" away from Turbo discharge outlet
2. 2" before the
IC
3. 2" after the IC
4. Before the TB
5. At the intake
plenum
Of course this can only be done on a prototype as all values
should be
recorded at the same time (8 boost and 8 temp sensors) to be able
to see the
boost lag caused by a huge intercooler. Just take the cubic foot
of the
intercooler and the turbo that feeds it with its cfm value and you
know how
long it takes until it is filled up and full boost is available
after the
IC.
For simple measures, just add some nipples to the IC
piping. But they must
be fully capped off for not causing any problems when
not used. BTW, for the
perfect tuning, pressure should also be measured in
the exhaust manifold and
before the (ex) precats.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 May 2000 18:25:29 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel selection?
Jim Berry wrote:
> If weight is
indeed your priority then you should look at Volk or Hart ---- the 17X9
Volk
> TE37 weighs in at 15#. The downside is cost --- about $500 each.
They are supposed
> to be designed for racing so durability should be high
?!?!
The Volk Racing TE37 is designed for street use,
yet it is also
one of the most durable street wheels
you can buy.
Unlike most street
wheels from high end Italian
wheel companies (like O.Z. and Fittipaldi),
Volk
actually uses the same exclusive forging process
that they use on
their center lock GT and BTCC
racing wheels as well as their Formula
wheels.
So the one-piece forged TE37 is extremely strong
and extremely
light.
There's a local speedshop which deals mostly
with European and
Italian sports cars. Occasionally
they'll do wheels/suspension on a
Japanese car.
Anyways, the head guy there says he sees pretty
much every
wheel brand (Fikse, OZ, ACS, AMG,
Kinesis, Fittipaldi, you name it) come back
for
repairs from street damage, except Volk Racing.
And no, he wasn't
trying to see me Volks. :) At
the time I was actually placing an
order for wheels
for my dad's Mercedes, and I was trying to decide
between
Fittipaldi, AMG, and Brabus. He was
cautioning me about possible
problems with wheel
damage when you go to a larger (18" or 19")
wheel
on a heavy car.
As far as price, I've come across them for as
low
as $400 apiece in 17". Really it's quite a
steal
considering what you get and compared to other
wheel prices out
there from companies like Fikse
and BBS, etc.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
P.S. BTW, Volk just came out with the new
SE37.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 18:45:59 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: IC Upgrades
Any idea how "easy" this fits to a
stock turbo car..with a stock front bumper??
- -----Original
Message-----
From: George Kuo [
mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Monday, May 08, 2000 1:40 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: IC Upgrades
Gota say GTPro's front mount is the best I've
seen so
far.. check it out at Jose's site -->
www.3si.org/amahoserGeorge
'92
RT TT
- --- Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
wrote:
> Looking for what is considered to be the _best_ IC
> and/or
plumbing upgrade
> for our cars.
>
> ---
> I LUV YOU
VIRUS UPDATE!
>
> *Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that
you
> decided to open an attachment listed as
> a love letter from
nobody you know? This isnt a
> virus thats choking Email server,
its
> intelligently deciding who should have thier
> computers taken
away by force.
> ---
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 18:15:22 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fwd: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
I said:
The rationale
being, that the 17s are $50 apiece cheaper
> for R compound tires.
Over the life of the car/driver that can amount to a
> considerable
amount of money.
Jeff said:
> Got em from
www.carsmetics.com I think..
>
> And as far as 17 -vs- 18, unless you can get a really wide 17, no real
reason to
> upgrade..unless you need larger brakes..etc.
>
>
What weight did $50/ea get you? Acceleration is
key.
==============================================================
The
point I was trying to make was that the 17" R compound tires are about
$50
cheaper per tire than the 18" tires. It makes sense to me to go with
the 17" rims and
the cheaper tire, especially if I'm using a set of
tires per year.
The little information I've seen seems to indicate that there
are no performance
improvements in going to the 265 X 35 X 18 from my present
255 X 40 X 17.
My intention is to go to a 17 x 9 and stay with the
255s.
If anyone has data to the contrary I'd like to see
it.
Jim
Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 18:58:16 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fwd: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
Ahh..I
see.
Nope, cant argue with that at all...but with 9's, you should be safe
for a 275
tire...right?
I'll probly be buying some volks in a few
weeks anyway.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [
mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Monday, May
08, 2000 6:15 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff; 'Merritt'; Dg B;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Fwd: Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels
I
said:
The rationale being, that the 17s are $50 apiece
cheaper
> for R compound tires. Over the life of the car/driver that can
amount to a
> considerable amount of money.
Jeff said:
>
Got em from www.carsmetics.com I think..
>
> And as far as 17 -vs-
18, unless you can get a really wide 17, no real reason
to
>
upgrade..unless you need larger brakes..etc.
>
> What weight did
$50/ea get you? Acceleration is
key.
==============================================================
The
point I was trying to make was that the 17" R compound tires are about
$50
cheaper per tire than the 18" tires. It makes sense to me to go with
the 17"
rims and
the cheaper tire, especially if I'm using a set of
tires per year.
The little information I've seen seems to indicate that there
are no performance
improvements in going to the 265 X 35 X 18 from my present
255 X 40 X 17.
My intention is to go to a 17 x 9 and stay with the
255s.
If anyone has data to the contrary I'd like to see
it.
Jim
Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 May 2000 19:16:15 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel selection?
Errin Humphrey wrote:
> The Volk
Racing TE37 is designed for street use,
> yet it is also one of the most
durable street wheels
> you can buy.
More info about Volk Racing
(Rays Engineering):
http://www.mackinindustries.com/raysinfo.htmlAnother
company which can compete with Volk
wheels is SSR, a Japanese company which
uses an
exclusive semi-solid forging process.
BTW, there are some
well-known forged wheel
makers here in the US (like Fikse here in
Seattle
which is famous nationwide among Porsche, Ferrari,
Corvette, etc.
drivers), but they tend to only make
3pc. wheels with forged
centers.
3-piece wheels tend to be rather poor at handling
street
abuse, mostly because the rim halves can't take
the abuse. They always have a
distinct "lip" which is
usually quite thin. However, it's
typical for these wheels
to cost $800-1200+ apiece in 17"
sizes.
Check out Fikse's website:
http://www.fikse.com/But if anyone's
interested in these wheels, I know the
guy who can get the best prices on
them. Just ask. :)
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 May 2000 19:22:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel MODs
Whats the group mentality on the GT-PRO ARC2-GP AFM
mod?
- ---
I LUV YOU VIRUS UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely
and _pathetic_ that you decided to open an attachment listed as
a love letter
from nobody you know? This isnt a virus thats choking Email server,
its
intelligently deciding who should have thier computers taken away by
force.
- ---
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #129
*********************
