team3s
Friday, May 5
2000
Volume 01 : Number
126
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 May 2000 20:23:43 -0400
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: racing gas questions
Local grocery store. I buy 2.5 gallons for
$1.50.
Mark
'93 R/T TT
At 07:21 PM 5/4/00 -0500, Trevor James
wrote:
>Where do you guys get distilled water
from?
>
>Trevor
>96 R/T TT
>92 GMC
Typhoon
>
>Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
>> > Where are
you guys plumbin in the injector for WI?
>>
>> I plumbed the
pressure feed and injector about one inch past the blowoff
>valve output
on the Y-pipe between the BOV and the throttle body so that
>water
couldn't get injected into the BOV. I put the injector about
>straight-on with the side of the Y-pipe (line running horizontal to the
>ground) and the pressure feed line about 1" down on the Y-pipe
underneath
>the water injector. Works great. For the pressure
switch line you can tap
>off of the BOV line from the throttle body (I
have a separate tap on the
>driver's side end of the intake manifold that
I used for my boost controller
>for the pressure switch
line).
>>
>> -Matt
>> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>>
>> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 May 2000 20:17:09 -0500
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: racing gas questions
Any Wal-mart, Target, KMart, Shopko, or similar
kind of discount store
would carry it .... either in their "food"
aisles or with their laundry
supplies like detergent, bleach, starch,
etc.
Greg
Trevor James wrote:
>
> Where do
you guys get distilled water from?
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T
TT
> 92 GMC Typhoon
>
> Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
>
> > Where are you guys plumbin in the injector for WI?
>
>
> > I plumbed the pressure feed and injector about one inch past
the blowoff valve output on the Y-pipe between the BOV and the throttle body so
that water couldn't get injected into the BOV. I put the injector about
straight-on with the side of the Y-pipe (line running horizontal to the ground)
and the pressure feed line about 1" down on the Y-pipe underneath the water
injector. Works great. For the pressure switch line you can tap off
of the BOV line from the throttle body (I have a separate tap on the driver's
side end of the intake manifold that I used for my boost controller for the
pressure switch line).
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
> >
> > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 May 2000 22:00:02 -0700
From: "Greg McIntyre" <
greg@infinet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Strut assemblies
Pardon the imposition of this post, as it is off
subject.
About 6-7 weeks ago I had exchanged e-mail with a member of this
group
regarding his selling a set of 4 strut assemblies to me. I've since had
a
massive HD crash and had to reload my system, losing my address
book.
If you are he, please respond privately! I'm now ready to buy
....
Thanks! -- Greg
greg@infinet.com'93 3000 GT
SL
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 May 2000 23:27:45 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
I tapped the spray nozzle right in
the bend in the Y-pipe right before the
throttle body. The hard
plastic makes drilling easy. There is a return
pressure line a few
inches upstream from the nozzle. Here are some pics.
http://mn3s.org/wi1.jpghttp://mn3s.org/wi2.jpghttp://mn3s.org/wi3.jpghttp://mn3s.org/wi4.jpghttp://mn3s.org/wi5.jpglater,
Curt
Upper
Midwest Gathering info at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
>To:
"'Curt Gendron'" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 14:24:06
-0700
>
>Where are you guys plumbin in the injector for
WI?
>
>I have a kit, will install on VR4 instead of
Supra.
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 07:56:26 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
> But..isnt all of that
plastic? Just wondering on the
> stability of that.
Yup, the
threaded parts are screwed right into holes I drilled in the plastic
Y-pipe. When I drilled them, I chose a bit 1-2 sizes smaller than the part
I was inserting, and screwing in the insert effectively threaded the
Y-pipe. I've screwed out the fittings a couple times to inspect the nozzle
and it has screwed back in just fine so far. They don't back out over
time, either. Works good enough so far...
If you really wanted to
go whole-hog on it, you could fabricate a little plate that would hold the
nozzle and then put a hose clamp on each side of the nozzle, holding down the
plate. That would be a more "permanent" mounting method, but up
to the 19psi boost that I've occasionally run it has held fine without any
extras. Not sure how much pressure this mounting method can handle.
If you are going all-out into the 25+ psi range you might need to do something
more serious, probably depends on how tight your insert fits (mine requires a
wrench to deinstall/install).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 09:33:02 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Re: racing
gas questions
HKS sells Distilled Water. Its been formulated from a
special bath of Heavy
Water taken from 3 Mile Island. Its on sale for only
$75.00 a Gal.
Arty
In a message dated 5/4/00 5:39:03 PM Pacific
Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
<< Subj: RE: Team3S: Re: racing gas
questions
Date: 5/4/00 5:39:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com (Mohler,
Jeff)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.stTo:
trevor@kscable.com ('Trevor James'),
MAJ@BigCharts.com (Matt
Jannusch)
CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stThe...store?
-----Original
Message-----
From: Trevor James [
mailto:trevor@kscable.com]
Sent:
Thursday, May 04, 2000 5:21 PM
To: Matt Jannusch
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
Where do you guys get distilled
water from?
Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
>>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 May 2000 11:12:01 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NGK question
Alright, here is a million dollar question for
everyone..... What is the
number for the NGK ~copper~ plug that works
in the 3/S. I know everyone
uses the PFR6J-11 platinum plug, but if
you plan on changing your plugs ever
10k or so, you can use the copper NGK
plug. Any idea??
I know the copper plug is a lot cheaper. I
know Bob Fontana used the copper
plugs all the time. I've searched
everywhere, but I can find the part
number......
later,
Curt
UMG info:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 May 2000 11:47:27 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
Cute Arty...very cute...now I feel like
a moron. Sorry but I've never had a use
for distilled water so I've never
went shopping for it.
Trev
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> HKS sells
Distilled Water. Its been formulated from a special bath of Heavy
> Water
taken from 3 Mile Island. Its on sale for only $75.00 a Gal.
>
Arty
>
> In a message dated 5/4/00 5:39:03 PM Pacific Daylight
Time,
>
jeff.mohler@netapp.com
writes:
>
> << Subj: RE: Team3S: Re:
racing gas questions
> Date: 5/4/00 5:39:03 PM Pacific
Daylight Time
> From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com (Mohler,
Jeff)
> Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
To:
trevor@kscable.com
('Trevor James'),
MAJ@BigCharts.com (Matt
Jannusch)
> CC:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
The...store?
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Trevor James [
mailto:trevor@kscable.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 5:21 PM
> To: Matt
Jannusch
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
>
>
>
Where do you guys get distilled water from?
>
>
Trevor
> 96 R/T TT
> 92 GMC Typhoon
>
>>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 May 2000 11:49:48 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cooler Plugs...
Anyone know of any cooler range plugs or have any
experience with them? Did they
supress detonation
any?
Trevor
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cooler Plugs...
Note: Cooler plugs will only affect
detonation, if the plug itself is the
source of the detonation.
Just
thought Id say that, in case anyone thinks plugs are an actual
solution to
the detonation issue.
- ---
I LUV YOU VIRUS UPDATE!
*Are you
really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you decided to open an attachment listed
as
a love letter from nobody you know? This isnt a virus thats choking
Email server, its
intelligently deciding who should have thier computers
taken away by force.
- ---
On Fri, 5 May 2000, Trevor James
wrote:
> Anyone know of any cooler range plugs or have any experience
with them? Did they
> supress detonation any?
>
>
Trevor
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 11:39:07 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK question
Curt
I have run the BKR6ES for the last
couple of years with great success.
Following is a reprint from a post that I
have saved concerning gap, colder
plugs and plug
types.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth*****
Start of Reports *****
The spark plug gap necessary under high boost
varies tremendously with
boost and radiator/intercoolers cooling ability.
Your objective is of
course to maximize the gap regardless of conditions but
that becomes more
difficult as temperature and pressure become more and more
capable of
literally blowing out that ignition spark. Under stock conditions
a gap
of .04 inchis appropriate, with 12psi gap down to .035, with 15psi
gap
down to .030, any boost pressure higher should not necessitate a
gap
lower than .028 inch.
As far as cold ranges, the general rule of thumb
is to reduce the heat
range (one step colder) if power increases over 100
horsepower from stock
and that would coincide with a boost presure of
approximately 15psi. If
fuel capablities (i.e. fuel pump and injectors have
been upgraded) and
cooling capacity (i.e. intercoolers, radiator, ic piping,
etc.) have been
increased then it usually is not necessary to switch to a
colder heat
range as it will only lead to immediate fouling especially under
normal
stop and go traffic. (Stock NGK heat range is designated as
"6", one step
colder is "7" - yes, it makes no logical
sense.)
If you want a stock plug for a stock VR-4 engine offering
maximum
longevity and minimizing future knuckle-scraping changes then go with
the
double-platinum BKR6EVX.
Cost $6-$9 each.
If you want a little
extra conductivity and perhaps a few horsepower
extra without limiting plug
life then go with the BKR6E, these have less
platinum content.
Cost $5-$8
each.
If you want maximized spark performance with the trade-off of
minimized
plug life then use the BKR6ES, these have copper cores which
provide
greater thermal and electrical conductivity than platinum-based plugs
but
erode quicker.
Cost $2.50-$4 each.
***** End of Repost
*****
Alright, here is a million dollar question for
everyone..... What is the
number for the NGK ~copper~ plug that works
in the 3/S. I know everyone
uses the PFR6J-11 platinum plug, but if you
plan on changing your plugs ever
10k or so, you can use the copper NGK
plug. Any idea??
I know the copper plug is a lot cheaper. I
know Bob Fontana used the copper
plugs all the time. I've searched
everywhere, but I can find the part
number......
later,
Curt
UMG
info:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 05 May 2000 13:26:07 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK question
Hey Jeff,
Your check will be in the mail.
:-) hehe.... This post should make it to
the FAQ page. Bob
Forrest, ya out there........
Curt
UMG info:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
"Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To:
"Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
>To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK question
>Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 11:39:07
-0600
>
>Curt
>
>I have run the BKR6ES for the last
couple of years with great success.
>Following is a reprint from a post
that I have saved concerning gap, colder
>plugs and plug
types.
>
>
>
>Jeffrey
>92 RT/Turbo
>
www.omega-sw.com/stealth>
>
>
>*****
Start of Reports *****
>
>
>The spark plug gap necessary under
high boost varies tremendously with
>boost and radiator/intercoolers
cooling ability. Your objective is of
>course to maximize the gap
regardless of conditions but that becomes more
>difficult as temperature
and pressure become more and more capable of
>literally blowing out that
ignition spark. Under stock conditions a gap
>of .04 inchis appropriate,
with 12psi gap down to .035, with 15psi gap
>down to .030, any boost
pressure higher should not necessitate a gap
>lower than .028
inch.
>As far as cold ranges, the general rule of thumb is to reduce the
heat
>range (one step colder) if power increases over 100 horsepower from
stock
>and that would coincide with a boost presure of approximately
15psi. If
>fuel capablities (i.e. fuel pump and injectors have been
upgraded) and
>cooling capacity (i.e. intercoolers, radiator, ic piping,
etc.) have been
>increased then it usually is not necessary to switch to a
colder heat
>range as it will only lead to immediate fouling especially
under normal
>stop and go traffic. (Stock NGK heat range is designated as
"6", one step
>colder is "7" - yes, it makes no
logical sense.)
>
>
>If you want a stock plug for a stock VR-4
engine offering maximum
>longevity and minimizing future knuckle-scraping
changes then go with the
>double-platinum BKR6EVX.
>Cost $6-$9
each.
>
>If you want a little extra conductivity and perhaps a few
horsepower
>extra without limiting plug life then go with the BKR6E, these
have less
>platinum content.
>Cost $5-$8 each.
>
>If you
want maximized spark performance with the trade-off of minimized
>plug
life then use the BKR6ES, these have copper cores which provide
>greater
thermal and electrical conductivity than platinum-based plugs but
>erode
quicker.
>Cost $2.50-$4 each.
>
>
>***** End of Repost
*****
________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 12:27:23 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
removed timing belt, weird thing happened
Ok, I finally got the timing
belt off but when I was taking it off, the
intake cam on the left side of the
engine spun a little bit. Is that
supposed to happen? It didn't
happen on the other cams. Mind you, I'm
taking my heads off because I'm
trying to figure out why my engine is making
a loud, harsh tapping
sound.
Thanks again,
Chris
92 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 14:45:26 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: removed timing belt, weird thing happened
> Ok, I finally got
the timing belt off but when I was taking it off, the
> intake cam on the
left side of the engine spun a little bit. Is that
> supposed to
happen? It didn't happen on the other cams. Mind you, I'm
>
taking my heads off because I'm trying to figure out why my engine is
making
> a loud, harsh tapping sound.
That's normal from the valve
springs pushing on the cam lobes. Just make sure the marks on the timing
wheels are lined up when you get it all back together. Use clips to hold
the timing belt in position on the wheels when you put it back together to make
the realignment easier.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 12:49:01 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: General Engine Question
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Mohler, Jeff [
mailto:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
>
> Did it restart? You didnt say.
>
Yeah the car
starts, and runs ok some of the time. About 50% of the time,
it idles
rough, misses/stumbles under high load (high gear, low RPM), and
seems to be
lacking some power in the high-RPM range (doesn't pull very hard
at the top
end and it gives a good kick upon upshifting when floored). It's
an
automatic, BTW.
- --Erik
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [
mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 1:52 PM
> To: 'Team3S List'
> Subject:
Team3S: General Engine Question
>
>
> Quick general engine
question:
>
> What would one need to examine after accidentally
dropping a
> disconnected
> spark plug wire (plug end) with the
engine on, having it
> touch metal, ground
> out, and stop the
engine? It grounded out through the
> insulator, so I'm
>
guessing that wire is shot and will replace it.
>
> This happens
not to be on my 3000GT (whew), but may be useful
> general info -
>
if not, please reply to me privately if you have any
> suggestions.
This
> engine is a FI I4 with a distributor/rotor('94 Corolla).
>
> I'm replacing the plugs anyway, I have new wires, distributor
> cap, rotor,
> battery (it blew up...literally). I
cleaned the car up and
> neutralized all
> the acid I could
find. The car runs now (nothing replaced
> but the battery,
>
but it's rough and frequently misses. My plan is to try the
>
following
> order: plug wires and plugs, distributor cap/rotor, and
if
> neither of those
> work, replace the
distributor.
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 10:16:41 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NGK
question
bcpr6es-11 or for modified cars
around the town plugs
BCPR7EVX-11 $7.00 a plug
race only plugs R7233-9 $19.00 a plug
92 3000
GTO S.C.
650hp of Thrills and Chills Someday :)
Plates
(HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://www.users.uswest.net/~ppalamara-
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron [
mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Friday, May 05, 2000 10:12 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: NGK question
Alright, here is a million dollar question for
everyone..... What is the
number for the NGK ~copper~ plug that works
in the 3/S. I know everyone
uses the PFR6J-11 platinum plug, but if
you plan on changing your plugs ever
10k or so, you can use the copper
NGK plug. Any idea??
I know the copper plug is a lot cheaper.
I know Bob Fontana used the copper
plugs all the time. I've
searched everywhere, but I can find the part
number......
later,
Curt
UMG info:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 12:30:11 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NGK
question
bcpr6es-11 or 7 or 8 for heat ranges
or for modified
cars:
around the town plugs BCPR7EVX-11 $7.00 a plug
race only plugs
R7233-9 $19.00 a plug
92 3000 GTO S.C.
650hp of Thrills and Chills
Someday :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://www.users.uswest.net/~ppalamara***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
5 May 2000 15:55:29 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission removal, Thanks
Thanks to everyone who send me
emails on tranmission removal, I was able to sucessfuly remover the RH
driveshaft from my VR4 last night. All it took was a New 30" wrecking
bar from Sear and a hard pry between the transmission and the green
cylinder. The retaining clip made it feal like I was doing something
wrong at first then it popped out with no problem.]
I will let the list
know how my engine rebuild goes.
P.S. I am looking for a new/used
main front crossmember. This is the crossmeber hidden by active aero skirt
that goes from side to side.
John Monnin
91 VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
Great news guys..THANKS!
I
dont expect to feel any perf. gain from this, but who knows.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [
mailto:MAJ@BigCharts.com]
Sent: Friday,
May 05, 2000 5:56 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: racing gas questions
> But..isnt all of that
plastic? Just wondering on the
> stability of that.
Yup, the
threaded parts are screwed right into holes I drilled in the
plastic
Y-pipe. When I drilled them, I chose a bit 1-2 sizes smaller
than the part I
was inserting, and screwing in the insert effectively
threaded the Y-pipe. I've
screwed out the fittings a couple times to
inspect the nozzle and it has screwed
back in just fine so far. They
don't back out over time, either. Works good
enough so far...
If
you really wanted to go whole-hog on it, you could fabricate a little
plate
that would hold the nozzle and then put a hose clamp on each side of
the nozzle,
holding down the plate. That would be a more
"permanent" mounting method, but
up to the 19psi boost that I've
occasionally run it has held fine without any
extras. Not sure how much
pressure this mounting method can handle. If you are
going all-out into
the 25+ psi range you might need to do something more
serious, probably
depends on how tight your insert fits (mine requires a wrench
to
deinstall/install).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
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End
of team3s V1 #126
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