team3s
Wednesday, May 3
2000
Volume 01 : Number
123
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 14:25:57 -0700
From: James Stephen Gula <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: DSM Shootout
(Was: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update)
> Might be info
on buschurracing.com ;
>
www.dsm.org has some info, under Events (click on
"more") but details are
I thought buschur wasn't involved this
year?
- ------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
- --
http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu-
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 18:08:20 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Notchy Shifter - update
Just had my tranny replaced again for a
leak. When I got it back, it felt
like I was pushing against a rubber
hose going into any up gears (1,3,5).
The tech at the dealership ended up tie
wrapping some harness that he said
was interfereing with the linkage.
This was all the problem was--maybe that
might be your problem?
Sam 95
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
To: Starnet
Stealth <
stealth@starnet.net>;
Team3S Stealth
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, April 25, 2000 7:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Notchy Shifter -
update
>Hello again..
>
>I've had two tranny shops and
dozens of auto experts (I work for Delphi
>Automotive) shooting ideas at
me for fixing my notchy tranny problem
>(note repost at end of
message). So far, I've had solutions ranging
>from replace the
flywheel, to adjust the clutch (petal), to replace the
>tranny
(again). I had a lot of 3000/S owners tell me that they
have
>adjusted their clutches to resolve this - mine does seem to be way
out
>of whack -- but, I don't grind going into reverse, a problem which
would
>be an indicator of a clutch not disengaging. It only grinds
going into
>first, and feels 'notchy' moving into any gear (running or
not). Well,
>we looked at shifter linkage, it seems fine, I did the
clutch booster
>test - fine - the clutch was bled only a week ago, and did
not help at
>all. Oh, and yes, the flywheel was
turned....
>
>
>Question: For those *who have adjusted
their clutch petals*, how are
>they now? Is the petal still in
spec? Does the clutch seem to be
>slipping at all? Anything
else odd noticed?
>I'm quite weary as it may mask another problem - the
real cause so to
>speak...
>
>All assistance is
appreciated!
>
>Ken Stanton
>'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
>K&N, Snake Eyes, Plates 007KEN
>BRAND NEW (reman) Getrag
from MD Auto and RPS Turbo Clutch
>
>Originals:
>Posting 1
---
>
>I have a newly installed Getrag from MD Auto (reman), RPS
Turbo Clutch,
>and am experiencing a VERY notchy shifter problem - whether
running or
>not, it feels as if I am pushing the shifter thru a
spring. And, if the
>
>car is running, I occasionally get a
grind going into first or even
>second (NOT a synchro problem!!! I'm
sure!).
>
>
>Posting 2 ---
>
>Are you keeping in
mind that my car _feels_ the same way when it is
>off?
My
>local tranny expert told me that this rules out clutch. But, I
do know
>(but
>not understand) that if the car is off and you try to
shift it, it is
>very
>difficult w/o depressing the clutch.
Therefore, if the clutch is
>mechanically
>not disengaging, even
when the car is off I would feel this notchy
>feeling -
>but I'm not
the expert!!
>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 13:50:57 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Torque on Wheels
Greetings.....
How many lbs. of torque
are applied when putting on the wheels? Got new
wheels and don't want
to warp the rotors...
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 12:59:55 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Torque on Wheels
- -----Original Message-----From: Jeffrey Young
<
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
>Greetings.....
>How
many lbs. of torque are applied when putting on the wheels?
Got
new
>wheels and don't want to warp the rotors...
The
lugnuts should be torqued between 85# and 95#. What's MOST
important is
that they all be torqued identically - I got a vibration
once between 70 and
80mph because they were torqued by hand. I like
"tight", so I
had them do all of mine at 92#. Smooth ride all the way
into the 130+
mph range...
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 13:07:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Torque on Wheels
Hi Jeffrey,
The 1991 manual (p. 31-2)
states 87-101 ft-lb (120-140 Nm) for
the hub (lug) nuts. I use 95 ft-lb and
haven't had any problems.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 02, 2000 1:50 PM
Subject: Team3S: Torque on
Wheels
Greetings.....
How many lbs. of torque are applied when
putting on the wheels?
Got new wheels and don't want to warp the
rotors...
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 May 2000 18:08:56 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Off topic
I thought this might be relevant to folks on this
list.
_____________________
Coulthard Walks Away From Plane
Crash
Tuesday, May 02, 2000
LYON (Reuters) - British Formula
One driver David Coulthard miraculously
walked away from the wreckage of a
private jet in which the pilot and
co-pilot died when it crashed in central
France on Tuesday.
Coulthard, his American fiance Heidi Wichlinski and
personal trainer Andy
Matthews escaped with nothing worse than bruises when
the Lear Jet in which
they were traveling from England developed engine
trouble, crash-landed and
burst into flames.
After the jet smashed
into the ground, the front section exploded killing
the two pilots. But the
rear was left largely intact, giving Coulthard time
to climb from the plane
unaided, followed by his two companions.
The three survivors were
treated at Lyon's Edouard Herriot hospital and
later drove to Coulthard's
home in Monte Carlo.
"Obviously I am relieved that Heidi, Andy and
myself are unhurt but I would
like to express my deepest sympathy to the
families of the two pilots,"
Coulthard was quoted as saying in a
statement from his British-based
McLaren team. "It is inappropriate for
me to go into details of the
accident but we were very lucky to walk
away."
TO DRIVE IN SPAIN
Coulthard, 29, intends to take
part in this weekend's Spanish Grand Prix.
Winner of the British Grand
Prix at Silverstone last month, Coulthard is
second in the Formula One world
championship.
McLaren spokeswoman Anna Guerrier said they expected him
to drive in Spain,
and his personal manager said he could not see Coulthard
missing the race.
"He would only stop if he had been injured and
could not get over it," his
personal manager Iain Cunningham said.
"I don't think that is what has
happened."
The plane had
taken off from Farnborough, Hampshire, in southern England,
heading for Nice
when the pilot requested an emergency landing because of
engine trouble,
airport sources said.
"I've spoken to (Coulthard) and he said
simply that the plane crashed and
that he, Heidi and Andy had got out
alright, but he was aware of the fact
that the pilots had not escaped. He
said they had gone to hospital for a
check-up but they were only
bruised," Cunnigham said.
Jacques Bellissen, Lyon-Satolas airport
general manager, said Coulthard
should thank his lucky stars he is alive.
"For all three passengers to be unharmed, without any burns or
scratches,
they must have been born under a lucky star. It's a miracle,"
he said.
"What saved them was that Coulthard was quick enough to leave
the plane
before it caught fire."
_________
Rich/Old
poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 19:03:37 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Holy smokes!
I finally got off my lazy butt, after a woman in a
minivan tried to run me
over while making a big show about her holding her
nose. Yep, I'm this close
to being classified as a redneck ><
.
My car smokes a lot as you may have heard from my mail a while ago.
Why? I
had thought it was turbo's (and bought a pair in excellent condition).
I
took it to a local shop, and they told me it was probably valve
guide/seal
related :(
Why? Because every time I let off the throttle
after punching it for a short
time, big puffs of blue smoke appear behind me,
it has gotten a lot worse
recently (and my car doesn't seem as fast either...
who cares about being
fast when your car looks like a POS when you pass
someone smoking up the
area).
Ok, get to the point right? I went under
the car, and unhooked the front "u"
shaped downpipe section (gutted
precat #1). I blocked off the resulting open
end of the "T" right
in front of the mini flex section of the stock DP.
I crossed my fingers,
and after the car was warmed up (yes, at this point, I
was a redneck, open
exhaust, revving in my driveway, grease/dirt/rust in my
face and eyes). As I
had hoped, smoke only poured out from the front turbo
exhaust, and nothing
from the back of the car!
Well, elated that it's the "easier to get
to" head, (and turbo if that IS
what it is, please tell me), I was ready
to order some new valve stem seals
and gasket for the front valve cover, and
be done with it with minimal down
time, and expenditure.
Upon reading
the service manual more carefully, it seems that I still have
to remove the
CAMS, and hence the timing belt to remove them!
Should I just go ahead
and pull off the front head and have it repaired
(basically seals AND guides
only) and do another timing belt (it was just
done less than 15k miles
ago)?
Should I just do both heads?
Should I not bother, and just
remove the belt and cams that I need, and
replace the seals only?
I
was going to use the "pressurized air" or "rope/twine" trick
to keep the
valves in place, so that is a factor as well. I don't have a lot
of money to
throw around (my Talon is sucking up 110% of my fundage), and I
want the car
to just not smoke anymore, rather than "high
performance" or any other
thing.
More posts to follow, but I have
to follow the "one topic per post rule".
brb! :)
Vineet
Singh
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org
- "Never Lift To Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 19:03:42 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Loose nuts!
While I was down there, I did notice that some kooky
monkeys have worked on
this car before. There are atleast 4 bolts that at
first appeared loose
(lock washer was not smashed), but when I go to tighten
them, they just spin
(maybe they were gorilla's? :).
Two of them are
on the front to back crossmember that the tranny sits on, on
the rear side,
and the other one is on the tranny, next to the starter on a
rusty steel
bracket that goes into the aluminum tranny housing.
I've used Heli-coils
before, but these are small awkward places for a drill.
What can I do? my car
hasn't fallen apart yet, but it MIGHT! :)
Trust me, on the OUTSIDE, this
car looked like a 97 or 98 model stealth
TT... whole different story
inside.
Vineet Singh
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 19:12:15 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crunchy front passenger wheel noise?
One more thing! (I promise,
it's the last one)
LATELY, when I go to stop from cruising for a while,
from what appears to be
the front passenger wheel area, I get a crunchy
noise, that actually makes
the car slightly slow down at different
rates.
IE: You hear the crunch, and you can tell there is slightly more
rolling
resistance momentarily, and then it goes away giving you the feeling
of
accelerating, and then another crunch... etc etc.
While under the
car, the front wheels are off the ground, so I go to spin
one side by hand
and look for tears in the CV boot. There are none! (no,
that's not a GOOD
thing). I WANTED the CV to be bad because that's easy to
replace. Now, I
realize that the crunchy sound seems to emanate from THE
TRANNY! It sounds
much too hollow to be the CV joint (and the boots aren't
ripped). What could
this be? Does it matter since the tranny's aren't
rebuildable? (I think it
might be the center diff has some gears chipped,
and hence the crunchy noises
at times).
Could it BE a wheel bearing, and the sound is just somehow
transferred
through the CV shaft into the area near where it enters the
tranny? I wish I
had one of those car stethoscopes and about 4 arms/hands.
Just wondering if
anyone has experienced any of the above before. Can it
still be the CV?
Thanks!
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 17:27:40 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Holy smokes!
Its the turbo..been there, blow'd that up
before.
Classic symptoms.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Vineet Singh [
mailto:billi_gates@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 02, 2000 5:04 PM
To:
team3s-digest@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Holy
smokes!
I finally got off my lazy butt, after a woman in a minivan
tried to run me
over while making a big show about her holding her nose. Yep,
I'm this close
to being classified as a redneck >< .
My car
smokes a lot as you may have heard from my mail a while ago. Why? I
had
thought it was turbo's (and bought a pair in excellent condition). I
took it
to a local shop, and they told me it was probably valve guide/seal
related
:(
Why? Because every time I let off the throttle after punching it for a
short
time, big puffs of blue smoke appear behind me, it has gotten a lot
worse
recently (and my car doesn't seem as fast either... who cares about
being
fast when your car looks like a POS when you pass someone smoking up
the
area).
Ok, get to the point right? I went under the car, and
unhooked the front "u"
shaped downpipe section (gutted precat #1).
I blocked off the resulting open
end of the "T" right in front of
the mini flex section of the stock DP.
I crossed my fingers, and after
the car was warmed up (yes, at this point, I
was a redneck, open exhaust,
revving in my driveway, grease/dirt/rust in my
face and eyes). As I had
hoped, smoke only poured out from the front turbo
exhaust, and nothing from
the back of the car!
Well, elated that it's the "easier to get
to" head, (and turbo if that IS
what it is, please tell me), I was ready
to order some new valve stem seals
and gasket for the front valve cover, and
be done with it with minimal down
time, and expenditure.
Upon reading
the service manual more carefully, it seems that I still have
to remove the
CAMS, and hence the timing belt to remove them!
Should I just go ahead
and pull off the front head and have it repaired
(basically seals AND guides
only) and do another timing belt (it was just
done less than 15k miles
ago)?
Should I just do both heads?
Should I not bother, and just
remove the belt and cams that I need, and
replace the seals only?
I
was going to use the "pressurized air" or "rope/twine" trick
to keep the
valves in place, so that is a factor as well. I don't have a lot
of money to
throw around (my Talon is sucking up 110% of my fundage), and I
want the car
to just not smoke anymore, rather than "high
performance" or any other
thing.
More posts to follow, but I have
to follow the "one topic per post rule".
brb! :)
Vineet
Singh
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org
- "Never Lift To Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 23:51:53 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sunroof on a 93' Es?
Mine DID until I tightened all the screws down. I
took the mounting pieces
apart, and tightened it all back together, and
viola! It's back t the
uninterrupted growl of my muffler-less
exhaust
Matt
>
> I'm going to emphasize that. My sunroof has
a bad seal now and above
> 100 makes wind noise... by 140mph it's
extremely high pitched to the
> point you'd rather slow down. So, to
counter that, I've had to crack my
> windows about 1/2" on the driver
side and about an inch on the
> passenger side so keep the noise down..
but then cabin pressure becomes
> another problem. Woe is
me.
>
> ------------------------------
> --Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula
> --http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
>
------------------------------
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 23:23:40 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: DSM
Shootout (Was: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update)
>
> I
thought buschur wasn't involved this year?
He changed his mind. It
is on and Bushur is the organizer. So far it seems
there will be quite
a few more 3/S cars than last year :-)
I can't recall the cost to race in
the shootout, but I think it was $25 or
$30. Fer sure no more than
that. Not sure how much they charge
for
spectators.
Oskar,
'95 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 May 2000 00:42:17 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: DSM
Shootout (Was: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update )
> He
changed his mind. It is on and Bushur is the organizer.
> So
far it seems there will be quite a few more 3/S cars than
> last year
:-)
Considering there were only three of our cars there last year
(Oskar's, Del's and mine), I HOPE there will be more of us! Unfortunately,
if you look on Buschur's site with classes for the shootout, there is no 3/S
class listed at this time. Maybe just an oversight, but if several/many of
us are planning on going then we should ask Mr. Buschur to remedy that before
the time comes.
http://www.buschurracing.com/shootout2000/classes.htm>
I can't recall the cost to race in the shootout, but I think
> it was $25
or $30. Fer sure no more than that. Not sure
> how much they
charge for spectators.
I think it was $30 for the DSM Shootout, something
like $15-20 for the Autocross and $35 or so for the Import Shootout on
Sunday. Not sure if there was a fee or what it was for the car show on
Sunday.
It certainly would be a blast if we could get an official class
set up for 3000GT/Stealth and have 15+ cars there so we actually do have a
honest-to-goodness 3/S Shootout.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
(15G's going on this weekend... Errin, do you have that parts
list? ;-)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 May 2000 10:00:55 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crunchy front passenger wheel noise?
I vote for the wheel bearing
!
> LATELY, when I go to stop from cruising for a while, from what
appears to
be
> the front passenger wheel area, I get a crunchy noise,
that actually makes
> the car slightly slow down at different
rates.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 May 2000 09:38:03 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
DSM Shootout
DSM Shootout does include 3S, they have never really
"advertised" for us but we ARE there every year.
Website:
http://www.buschurracing.com/shootout2000/That
Sunday is an ALL-import drag shootout, so can stay for 3 race events--
DSM/3S
drag on Friday, Autocross on Sat, and All-Import Shootout on
Sunday!
Jack Tertadian
Matt Jannusch wrote:
> > He
changed his mind. It is on and Bushur is the organizer.
> > So
far it seems there will be quite a few more 3/S cars than
> > last year
:-)
>
http://www.buschurracing.com/shootout2000/classes.htm>
It certainly would be a blast if we could get an official class set up for
3000GT/Stealth and have 15+ cars there so we actually do have a
honest-to-goodness 3/S Shootout.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 May 2000 09:49:41 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Crunchy front passenger wheel noise?
If you haven't already, I would try
draining out the fluid from your xfer case,
and changing it to Redline
Shockproof Heavy Gear Oil. In the process you will
be able to see if
your xfer case is filled with big metal shavings and is about
to totally lock
up or maybe is already ground away...as may be the case.
Jack
T.
Vineet Singh wrote:
> LATELY, when I go to stop from
cruising for a while, from what appears to be
> the front passenger wheel
area, I get a crunchy noise, that actually makes
> the car slightly slow
down at different rates.
> IE: You hear the crunch, and you can tell there
is slightly more rolling
> resistance momentarily, and then it goes away
giving you the feeling of
> accelerating, and then another crunch... etc
etc.
> While under the car, the front wheels are off the ground, so I go
to spin
> one side by hand and look for tears in the CV boot. There are
none! (no,
> that's not a GOOD thing). I WANTED the CV to be bad because
that's easy to
> replace. Now, I realize that the crunchy sound seems to
emanate from THE
> TRANNY! It sounds much too hollow to be the CV joint
(and the boots aren't
> ripped). What could this be? Does it matter since
the tranny's aren't
> rebuildable? (I think it might be the center diff
has some gears chipped,
> and hence the crunchy noises at times).
>
Could it BE a wheel bearing, and the sound is just somehow transferred
>
through the CV shaft into the area near where it enters the tranny? I wish
I
> had one of those car stethoscopes and about 4 arms/hands. Just
wondering if
> anyone has experienced any of the above before. Can it
still be the CV?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 May 2000 12:55:27 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Holy Frijoles!!!!
I'm half excited and half
terrified,
I (FINALLY) went and rented and engine
hoist and pulled the motor
out of my car today....there it sits. Worst
case scenario, what's a
shortblock cost? If the cylinder walls are
scored, What's the most I
can take off of them?
If anybody's
interested, there's a couple of copy and paste links below
to pics that I
took today.
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/carmotor.jpgand
http://home.sprintmail.com/~wjcrabtree/empty1.jpg-
--
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
3 May 2000 19:21:45 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission removal
After a computer upgrade I am back on the
list with question.
I am pulling the engine on my 91 VR4 because of a
bad rod knock. Everthing has gone good so far but I can not seem to
get the passenger side driveshaft out of the transmission. The
owners manual shows the driveshaft being removed as a unit from the trasmission
including the big green tube right next to trans. I have the ball
joints apart and I have tired prying the green tube (I am not sure what to call
it) but I am afraid to pry too hard.
Any suggestions?
The drivers
side driveshaft came out with only minor work but the green cylinder was not
right agains the transmission. It is taking me a long time to do the
work because I am videotaping often so that I have some clue as to how to put
everything back together.
P.S. I have a rebuilt engine on order
from Japan, The rebuild company said that since it would take so long (I
have already been waiting two months) that when the engine arrived I would have
the option of accepting it or not. Since I have since commited to
rebuilding the current engine I will let the list know when the engine arrives
so that someone can grad it if they need it.
John Monnin
91 Maroon
3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@altavista.com_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
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***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
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of team3s V1 #123
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