team3s
Tuesday, May 2
2000
Volume 01 : Number
122
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 09:42:57 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Autocrosses, two at a time
Points taken.
Guess I still
have a lot to learn.
Rich/old dog trying to learn new tricks
-
---
*grin*
Glad you didnt take it badly..because I sincerely didnt
want you to.
SO..is there anyone in the Bay Area (SF) who wants to
learn how to hand out
ass-whippin' in a VR4 in autox?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 15:47:05 EDT
From:
TrAmSoOtRu@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Sunroof on a 93' Es?
Hey guys,
Anyone out there done this? I want
to put one in, but don't know where to
start, well.. actually I do.. there
is a shop about an hour from here that
does it. But i'm not sure what to
"look" for when i'm getting someone to
start cutting a hole in my
roof..
Any advice is appreciated..
Jeff
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 May 2000 14:59:01 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Racing questions
Got a few questions for the experienced racing
folks on the list:
RACING GAS: I ran 5 gallons of 110 octane leaded
racing fuel ($2.40 per
gallon, BTW) this weekend at two autocross
events. How much damage do you
think I did to my cats? If I plan to run
racing fuel in the future, do you
think the cats oughta be taken off? Or is
occasional use of leaded fuel OK?
(I run 110 to prevent detonation damage,
not for any increase in performance).
BROKEN WHEEL STUDS: I've broken off
three wheel studs in the past 12
months, and it is starting to p*** me off. I
am very careful putting the
suckers on, threading them all the way down with
my fingers to make sure
they are not cross-threaded, and then torquing them
to 100 ft-lb. I also
torque them after every run or session. But sometimes,
when I am taking
them off, I get that uh-uh feeling, and they go SNAP! Any
secrets for
dealing with this? Anti-seize compound, for example? (if so, what
brand?) I
just went to the Mitsu dealer and bought four spare wheel studs and
four
more chrome lug nuts. It seems the harder I run and the harder I
brake
(with attendant high temps), the more I get seized wheel studs. And
it's
always on the front wheels.
PUTTING IN WHEEL STUDS: For Mitsu
guys only -- got any secrets for putting
in wheel studs? It's a pain to have
to remove all the bolts holding the hub
assembly, then sliding it out the
half-inch or so needed to let the wheel
stud in from the rear. Is there some
other magical method for getting a
wheel stud in? Like is there a secret
location that I can rotate the hub to
and find just enough
room?
HITTING THE HIGH BANKS: I ran an autocross this weekend that used a
NASCAR
paved, banked 1/2 mile oval (Hawkeye Downs, in Cedar Rapids,
Iowa). From a
running start, we ran the outer oval, then ran an inner
quarter-mile oval,
then ran the outer oval again. This was my first time on
an oval, and I'm
not sure I handled the banking and braking right. I know for
sure that I
don't understand the dynamics of the car during the transition to
the
banking. I just sorta gutted it out without knowing what was happening
to
the car.
As for braking, I had to brake from 90 mph to less than
70 mph to enter the
big oval (we were pyloned down to the lower groove, only
1.5 lanes wide,
not a lot of room if you make a mistake, but three lanes away
from those
nasty concrete walls), and from 80 to 60 or so to enter the little
oval,
which had no pylons (I don't know the exact speeds). What is the secret
to
braking in such a situation? I just lifted and used a very light touch
on
the brakes to bring it down, mostly because I didn't know WTF I was
doing.
Is it more correct to hammer the brakes at the last moment, as in
road
racing? I know practice and experience help immensely, but we only got
two
runs.
When entering the banking, I was always too slow. Once I
got into it, I
could nail the throttle and the car stuck pretty good. What is
the secret
to entering banking at the correct speed? I was carrying
about 70-75 mph
through the big oval, but I didn't enter it that fast. If I
know I can
carry 75 on the banking, should I enter the transition point at
that speed?
Geez, that's scary. (No, not scary -- cuz all I'd do is take out
a few
pylons if I missed it -- but when you only get two runs, you don't want
to
mess one up.)
We're running there again in September, so if any of
you have advice on
running on a banked oval, please send it on.
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 13:54:29 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Racing questions
Got a few questions for the experienced
racing folks on the list:
RACING GAS: I ran 5 gallons of 110 octane
leaded racing fuel ($2.40 per
gallon, BTW) this weekend at two
autocross events. How much damage do you
think I did to my cats? If I plan to
run racing fuel in the future, do you
think the cats oughta be taken off? Or
is occasional use of leaded fuel OK?
(I run 110 to prevent detonation damage,
not for any increase in performance).
- ---
You should be just
fine..just dont do that _often_. Should you find an obvious
O2 issue,
propane torch and cook it clean.
BROKEN WHEEL STUDS: I've broken off
three wheel studs in the past 12
months, and it is starting to p*** me off. I
am very careful putting the
suckers on, threading them all the way down with
my fingers to make sure
they are not cross-threaded, and then torquing them
to 100 ft-lb. I also
torque them after every run or session. But sometimes,
when I am taking
them off, I get that uh-uh feeling, and they go SNAP! Any
secrets for
dealing with this? Anti-seize compound, for example? (if so, what
brand?) I
just went to the Mitsu dealer and bought four spare wheel studs and
four
more chrome lug nuts. It seems the harder I run and the harder I
brake
(with attendant high temps), the more I get seized wheel studs. And
it's
always on the front wheels.
- ---
You should always use AS
compound, but the real issue here is your extreme use
on the stock stud/nut
combination. Solutions #1 (best) is a stronger stud, #2
is a longer nut
(more threads to bite) because your OEM short nut is stretching
out the stud
in one small place, on only a handful of full threads. Double
nutting
is not acceptable. Use of both suggestions is bestEST. The
front
wheels is a feature of alloy wheels, theyre growing/expanding a lot
more away
from the hub as they get MUCH hotter with track type use. ANY
race shop that
works on open track cars can get ahold of the studs you
want. Hand em a new oem
stud, and say you want something to fit
that. At worst you may have to drill
out by a few thou your rotor
holes..but probly not.
PUTTING IN WHEEL STUDS: For Mitsu guys
only -- got any secrets for putting
in wheel studs? It's a pain to have to
remove all the bolts holding the hub
assembly, then sliding it out the
half-inch or so needed to let the wheel
stud in from the rear. Is there some
other magical method for getting a
wheel stud in? Like is there a secret
location that I can rotate the hub to
and find just enough room?
-
---
Nope..for the driveway thats it, for the shop a press works nicely
*grin*.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 17:39:59 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warranty
Mine is called Fidelity Warranty Services, Inc.
P.O.
Box 8567
Deerfield Beach Florida-1800-327-5172--I have the Gold
coverage
It covers everything but ABS with a $50 deductible for
$2000....
I just used it for about $8000 worth of work, so after that, I
wonder if
they still
cover VR-4s--they paid with no hassle--I had the
tranny, and power steering
rack,
and ABS motor done (I paid for ABS
motor)
They cover me 48 months and 48,000 miles over the current odometer
reading.
$2000 seemed like a lot when I bought it, but it was well worth it-I
am good
till about 90,000 miles.
Sam Shelat
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest <
bf@bobforrest.com>
To: Patrick Spann
<
tobar8@earthlink.net>; Team3S
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, April 23, 2000 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Warranty
>-----Original Message-----From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
>>I
have had a few responses regarding an extended warranty for my
1992
>3000GT
>>VR-4 with about 72,000 miles on it. Is there
anyone out there who
>has
>>actually purchased an extended
warranty for their car and made a
>claim?
>>I know of Platinum
Corporation, and someone mentioned Allstate.
>There must
>>be
more. Please help me with this before something
breaks.
>
>
>I don't have new data for you, but while we're on
the subject... I'm
>trying to put together a page on aftermarket
warrantys for the Team3S
>website, so anyone with info should post it here
and copy me...
>
>I'm about to sign on with a company that does NOT
warranty the turbo
>models, but offers a "Platinum Plan" for 3S
NT's over 4 years old for
>$1150. They've offered a Team3S discount
of either $75 off the price
>OR a zero deductible instead of the normal
$50 deductible. Their site
>is at
www.1sourceautowarranty.com , and
you can reach their rep,
>Robert Frye at
rfrye@1sourceautowarranty.com or
1-888-905-5700.
>Mention Team3S to get the
discount.
>
>Please, keep the info coming...
TIA,
>
>Forrest
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 18:10:42 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update
> The Weldon pump model A2005-C is
usable for both street & strip.
> They do make a higher flow racing
only model but since I was using two pumps,
> I chose the A2005-C. The
pump & regulator was $1400.00 (That's one pump &
> regulator)
Ouch.
> Arty 91 VR-4
Arty
$1400 per pump/regulator ---
I'll pass. Let me know when you decide you only need
one, I'll be happy to
give you 20¢ on the dollar for the spare.
Are you going to post an
update or are we going to have to send a hit squad over
and put sugar in your
fuel
cell.
Jim Berry [ dying of curiosity ]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 18:58:25 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need help removing rear turbo
I'm having 2 problems with removing the
rear turbo right now:
So far I've done all the steps leading up to taking
the "exhaust fitting"
off. But here are my
issues:
1) The larger of the 3 heat shields doesn't want to be
pulled out. I
unbolted all the bolts for it but for some reason it
seems to be made in
just the most awkward of shapes that it doesn't want to
be pulled out. I'm
trying to pull it from the top. Am I not
supposed to be able to pull it out
at this stage?
I can move it around
freely, but it won't come out.
2) There are 4 14mm nuts that need to be
removed to take the exhaust fitting
off, but one of the bolts is located
underneath the pipe in a spot that
isn't accesible to a tool, at least from
above. I can feel it there, but I
can't really see it. It's like
impossible to get a wrench in there. Am I
doing this wrong. Is
there a better technique?
One more thing, one of the "exhaust
fitting" nuts was so loose that I didn't
even need a wrench to unscrew
it. I unscrewed it with my fingers. Could
this be a source of an
exhaust leak? I'm taking my heads off so that I can
inspect for
problems that might have been causing the loud, harsh tapping
noise that my
engine has been making lately.
Thanks again,
Chris Maxwell
92 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 22:08:58 EDT
From:
DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
Venom 400 vs Boost Controller
Does anyone know anything about the Venom
400. What does it do, is it hard to
install, does it make a big difference
(noticable) in performance. Or should
i get a boost controller. I have 1992
vr-4 with a k&n air
charger.
alex
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 19:19:13 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sunroof on a 93' Es?
- -----Original Message-----From:
TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com<
TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com>
>Hey
guys,
>Anyone out there done this? I want to put one in, but don't
know
where to
>start, well.. actually I do.. there is a shop about an
hour from here
that
>does it. But i'm not sure what to "look"
for when i'm getting someone
to
>start cutting a hole in my
roof..
Most dealers offered this as a $500+ option at the time you
purchased
the car. And it's not done at the factory, it's local.
Find out who
your dealer farms his/her sunroof work out to, and then go
there...
For about $300, direct...
Remember, if you like to go fast,
they're LOUD!
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 23:02:35 EDT
From:
Topofwrld1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
the antenna broke on my 92 SL, is it difficult to replace the mas...
In a
message dated 04/30/2000 11:00:32 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Playenfun@aol.com
writes:
<< Hi, I have 1992 3000Gt, and the
antenna broke, i can hear the motor
running every time i turned on the
radio, i called the dealer and they told
me that i only need to replace the
mast. Doesn anyone know how difficult it
is to replace it, it is
something that i could perhaps do in a few hours?
Any
answers will be
greatly appreciated, thanx. Christian E. >>
It just takes a few
minutes. Remove the retaining nut and have someone turn
on the radio
and pull the old mast out. Then insert the long plastic gear
strip and
turn the radio off and the mast will get pulled into the fender.
Replace the retaining nut.
Dennis
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 23:21:42 -0700
From: James Stephen Gula <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sunroof on a 93' Es?
> Remember, if you like to go fast, they're
LOUD!
I'm going to emphasize that. My sunroof has a bad seal now and
above
100 makes wind noise... by 140mph it's extremely high pitched to the
point you'd rather slow down. So, to counter that, I've had to crack
my
windows about 1/2" on the driver side and about an inch on the
passenger side so keep the noise down.. but then cabin pressure
becomes
another problem. Woe is me.
-
------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
- --
http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu-
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 May 2000 00:14:32 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine removal
Hey guys,
Getting ready
to pull my engine out and mount it on an engine
stand. Before mounting
it to the stand, should I remove the flywheel
first? If I don't will it
complicate disassembly? Please advise.
Thanks
- --
-
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport(THIS WEEK!!!CAN'T
WAIT)
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 May 2000 22:16:56 -0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need help removing rear turbo
Chris,
If you are taking your
heads off anyway, why not just remove the rear head
with the turbo still
attached? Iv'e done it that way a few times, you will
go through a lot less
Advil, believe me.....
Wayne
At 08:58 PM 05/01/2000 , Chris
Maxwell wrote:
>I'm taking my heads off so that I can
>inspect for
problems that might have been causing the loud, harsh tapping
>noise that
my engine has been making lately.
>
>Thanks again,
>Chris
Maxwell
>92 R/T TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 May 2000 00:34:39 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Upper Midwest Gathering Update
Hey everyone,
I have
finally created a full schedule of events for the Upper Midwest 3/S
Gathering that will be happening May 19-21 in Wisconsin Dells. There
will
be three full days of events. The main page can be found
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html
and just the schedule can be found
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/schedule.htmlThere
is still hotel rooms at Baker's Sunset Bay Resort for the 20%
discounted
rate. Make your reservations soon, so you don't miss any of the
action.
All the sign-up information can be found on the main
page.
Hope to see ya all there...
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 May 2000 23:10:15 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help removing rear turbo
Chris Maxwell
wrote:
> I'm having 2 problems with removing the rear turbo right
now:
I'm only midway through typing up my "Turbo Install
How-To."
I think once it's done it will be pretty good, with lots of
hints and
tips as well as an overall procedure which is much more
realistic
than the service manual's and also a parts checklist.
>
1) The larger of the 3 heat shields doesn't want to be pulled out.
I
> unbolted all the bolts for it but for some reason it seems to be made
in
> just the most awkward of shapes that it doesn't want to be pulled
out. I'm
> trying to pull it from the top. Am I not supposed
to be able to pull it out
> at this stage? I can move it around freely,
but it won't come out.
First of all, I assume you've also removed the O2
sensor.
The problem with removing this heat shield seems to me to
be
quite simple: it's just wedged in there really good, and it's
difficult
to get enough leverage and grip to remove.
Here's how I got it out.
I'm not sure if it will work for you.
1) First, I literally climbed up on
top of the engine. I removed
my shoes (since my clean engine bay is
holy ground), and just
planted my sweaty feet as best I could. Note
that I did not
remove the hood.
2) I reached down with my arm (can't
remember which) as
far as I could and grabbed the heat shield from the
lowest
point possible. The lower part of the heat shield is
rolled,
so this part shouldn't cut your fingers.
3) Then I just gave
it some serious upward yanks. Little by
little, it came out. Your
forearm will take a beating, so keep
some Neosporin handy.
:)
This method might seem a bit drastic, and it maybe isn't
necessary
if you have enough muscle/grip to get it out while
standing beside your
car.
> 2) There are 4 14mm nuts that need to be removed to take the
exhaust fitting
> off, but one of the bolts is located underneath the pipe
in a spot that
> isn't accesible to a tool, at least from above. I
can feel it there, but I
> can't really see it. It's like impossible
to get a wrench in there. Am I
> doing this wrong. Is there a
better technique?
It's down there, but getting a socket onto it really
should not
be a problem. As long as you have 3/8" drive 14mm
sockets
of short, medium, and long length as well as several
different
extension lengths, you should definitely be able to find a
combo
that works. It helps to have a wobble extension, but I
don't
think I needed one for this particular nut.
> One more thing,
one of the "exhaust fitting" nuts was so loose that I didn't
>
even need a wrench to unscrew it. I unscrewed it with my fingers.
Could
> this be a source of an exhaust leak?
Most
definitely.
If you have more turbo removal/install questions, I'm
glad
to help since the whole ordeal is still fresh in my mind.
:)
I'll try to get that writeup finished soon here too.
- --Errin
Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 10:34:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injectors..
> 360s I believe here in the US.
Not only
in the US, they are 360cc allover the world :)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 May 2000 06:15:12 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine removal
If you are eventually removing the crank or
rear seal assembly, I suggest
taking the flywheel off before placing on
engine stand. There just isn't
much room there (flywheel will fit but
downright impossible to get a
socket on the bolts on most stands), you've got
to be careful when you
apply high torque on a stand, and the less weight you
suspend with the
stand the better.
If the crank and rear seal are
going to remain untouched, then you can
leave the flywheel intact.
Slo
Joe
Jeff Crabtree wrote:
> Hey
guys,
>
> Getting ready to pull my engine
out and mount it on an engine
> stand. Before mounting it to the
stand, should I remove the flywheel
> first? If I don't will it
complicate disassembly? Please advise.
>
>
Thanks
>
> --
> -Jeff Crabtree
>
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
> 2K
Wrangler TJ Sport(THIS WEEK!!!CAN'T
WAIT)
>
St. Louis, MO
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 11:35:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Venom 400 vs Boost Controller
Forget the Venom stuff as it simply
changes the timing without any base
information. It's not worth thinking
about it.
Yes, get a boost controller.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
> Does anyone know anything about the Venom 400. What does it
do, is it hard
to
> install, does it make a big difference (noticable)
in performance. Or
should
> i get a boost controller. I have 1992 vr-4
with a k&n air charger.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 12:04:22 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Replacing valve stem seals
> > Is it possible to get the
valve stem seals with the lifters out and the
> > heads still on the
engine? Thanks in advance.
Yes, it is possible, although not the seals
also the valve guides is what is
too large on our cars. The tolerance of the
outlets is possible of upo to
0.15mm cleareance. IMHO, this is just too much
and a good engine should not
have above 0.08mm. My new heads are having now
self made and longer valve
guides with only 0.06mm clearance to the valves.
No oiling for sure :)
I used the "rag-technique" for changing
the lifters/seals (only one cyl at
once). Make sure that the piston of the
desired cylinder is on as much below
TDC as possible. Remove the plug and put
a soft and small nylon rag into the
chamber. Put it in as much as possible.
Then turn the crank by hand to lift
the piston up to compress the rag. You
will feel the resistance of the
cylinder caused by the rag. It should now be
save to remove the stuff.
Before you remove the stuff then, just make sure
that the valve is really
hold by the rag. But it shouldn't be a problem at
all and this method
already worked on every car or motorcycle I had
:)
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 12:11:38 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Racing questions
> BROKEN WHEEL STUDS: I've broken off three
wheel studs in the past 12
> months, and it is starting to p*** me
off.
Have you already upgraded the brakes (not that sure now). IMHO, the
rotors
are just getting way too hot and the heat is transfered to the wheels,
nuts,
bolts. I always use a hig htemp grease on the nuts and never retourque
them
after a training session. This because the alloy is expanding under
high
temperatures and retorqing them would cause more seizing when the stuff
is
cooled down afterwards. That's why I tourque them only down when
cold.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 10:06:23 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump
Comparisons - Update
Sorry for the delay in the update. I had major
problems with the roll cage
shop. Had to have the whole thing redone.
Anyway, back on track with
assembly. Target date to run is 7/21/00
Ohio...DSM Shootout (I'll get to meet
Dr. J.T. too) If I had any brains I'd
let Dr. J run it. I still need the
Manifolds & Headers to mount the
turbos. Everything takes so darn long. I
thought for sure I was going to
trailor it to the gathering - it's just not
ready to run. On the good side,
my Tuner opened a shop in Queens, NY. A real
lift makes life soooo much
easier. I will update when I here the motor run
again. Wow, I really miss
driving this car to work everyday. That has been
the largest
sacrifice.
Arty 91 VR-4
Snip>
Arty
Are you going to post an
update or are we going to have to send a hit squad
over
and put sugar in
your fuel
cell.
Jim Berry [ dying of curiosity ]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 11:36:34 -0700
From: James Stephen Gula <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: DSM Shootout
(Was: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update)
> Target date to run
is 7/21/00 Ohio...DSM Shootout
Ok, this means my arse has to drive to
Ohio now. So could someone give
me an URL with more info on the shootout?
thanks.
- ------------------------------
- --Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula
- --http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
-
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 May 2000 13:45:35 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: DSM Shootout (Was:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update)
Steve, this is all I have so
far. I figure when it gets closer I'll start
asking.
Arty 91
VR-4
DSM Shootout 2000 (3000/Stealths Encouraged!)
Norwalk
Dragway, Norwalk Ohio
Friday July 21 =
Dragrace
Sat July 22 = Autocross
and Car Show
Sun July 23 = IDRC Import
Drag Racing ALL-Brands
Shootout
sponsored by Sport Compact Car and Summit Racing
Don't yet know cost, but
it is ON!
My friends and I already have 2 rooms booked at local
hotel.
Might be info on buschurracing.com
;
www.dsm.org has some info, under Events
(click on "more") but details are
upcoming.
Jack
Tertadian
In a message dated 5/2/00 8:35:57 AM Pacific Daylight
Time, gulajs@jmu.edu
writes:
<< ubj: DSM Shootout (Was:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump Comparisons - Update)
Date: 5/2/00 8:35:57 AM
Pacific Daylight Time
From:
gulajs@jmu.edu (James Stephen
Gula)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.stTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Target date to run is 7/21/00 Ohio...DSM Shootout
Ok, this means my arse
has to drive to Ohio now. So could someone give
me an URL with more info on
the shootout? thanks.
------------------------------
--Steve
"Loco3KGT"
Gula
--http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
------------------------------
>>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #122
*********************