team3s
Monday, May 1
2000
Volume 01 : Number
121
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 09:02:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fw:
Team3S: ground control adjustable springs
> >Ground control
apparently assumed I was of superior intellect and decided
> >I didn't
need instructions. I can't imagine not having a stop [ I cut mine
> in 1/2
].
>
> I was changing over to the race tires today, and I peered up
in there to
> contemplate the lack of a bump stop. I don't see any reason
why I couldn't
> stick the bump stop back in there, between the top spring
perch and the
> caster plate.
On my car, with the GC setup and GAB
struts, it's an easy matter to access the
bump stops. All I have to do is
remove the nut on the top of the strut and then
use a pry bar to push the
lower control arm down far enough to get the top of the
strut to clear the
camber plate. I can then reach in and remove the top spring
perch and bearing
assembly. When releasing the pry bar make sure the top of
the strut is
protected so you don't damage the connector, or adjuster in my case.
The
procedure may not work with stock struts !!!!
If you have occasion to
remove the top perch/bearing assembly be sure to
inspect the bearing and
race --- mine get chewed up after a few miles of use.
The design is obviously
bad, I've talked to Tony at GC but haven't gotten a redesigned
part yet.
Maybe a few more voices added to the plea will get some action.
I'll send
you a picture of the problem to your email account so you can see what
I'm
talking
about.
=========================================================
>
I re-installed the brake ducts for the autocross tomorrow. I'll take
them
> off for street use.
Do you need coolers for autocross
??????? I thought that with the short duration
of the race, ducts
would not be
required.
============================================================
>
Yesterday,. I finally found a shop here in Iowa who has a basic
>
understanding of road racing, and actually understood what I wanted when
I
> asked if he could find me some NASCAR air blowers. It seems that
NASCAR
> trucks use small air blowers to force air through 2.5 in. ducts
to cool the
> brakes. That would solve the pickup problem, sho'
nuff.
Please keep me posted on that endeavor, I've tried on several
occasions to find such
an animal. I even talked to the electric supercharger
guy about using the E-Ram to blow
air to the brakes. He said they could
derate the unit to get a longer duty cycle, with less
airflow. Price would be
the same ---
$300.
=============================================================
>
>--- when I install my FMIC I'll
> >use the old IC openings to run
ducts.
>
> FMIC? For open tracking?. O tell me more, trail-breaker.
How you gonna keep
> the water temp down after you block the furshlugginer
radiator?
I don't really anticipate a problem at speed. If I encounter a
cooling problem I may have
remove the A/C condenser and maybe the fans to
improve the
flow.
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:13:36 -0700
From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: extended warranty
> This message is in MIME format. Since your
mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may
not be legible.
-
--MS_Mac_OE_3039941617_119593_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Hi...I am
searching for an extended warranty for my 1992 VR-4. I have
narrowed
the short list down to two. Allstate was a consideration but they
do
not have a plan for a car that is more than five years old.
The first
company is Platinum Warranty. They have a nice web sight and
understand
the VR4. Price is about 1600.
The other company is Auto Care of
America. They are personable and seem to
understand the car also.
Their price is 1399 for 3 years and 45,000 miles.
Anybody have anything
to add????
Another company perhaps?
Patrick
tobar8@earthlink.net -
--MS_Mac_OE_3039941617_119593_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html;
charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding:
quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>extended
warranty</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<FONT
FACE=3D"Verdana">Hi...I am searching for an extended warranty for
my 19=
92 VR-4. I have narrowed the short list down to two.
Allstate wa=
s a consideration but they do not have a plan for a
car that is more than fi=
ve years old.<BR>
<BR>
The first
company is Platinum Warranty. They have a nice web sight an=
d
understand the VR4. Price is about 1600.<BR>
The other
company is Auto Care of America. They are personable and se=
em to
understand the car also. Their price is 1399 for 3 years and
45,=
000 miles.<BR>
<BR>
Anybody have anything to
add????<BR>
Another company
perhaps?<BR>
<BR>
Patrick<BR>
tobar8@earthlink.net</FONT>=20
</BODY>
</HTML>
-
--MS_Mac_OE_3039941617_119593_MIME_Part--
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:16:36 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TuRbO Questions (resolved)
Errin Humphrey wrote:
>
> 5) Does anyone know how these things might be related?
> > Lots of
water out of the O2 housings makes it seem like
> > there's a coolant
leak within the turbo bearing (somehow
> > allowing coolant into the
turbine housing?) BTW, my lines
> > are not leaking, but I did
have to adjust the water jacket on
> > the front turbo. And with
a very big increase in lag and
> > seemingly very little boost output,
one or both of the turbos
> > seem to be faulty.....
Hi
everybody,
In case you were wondering, everything turned out fine.
:)
Since my original post didn't gather a lot of replies, I only
sent
out updates to the couple people who responded to it. But
since
a few others have recently asked me off-list about how
things turned out, I
think I should let you all know the scoop.
1) Water out the exhaust
turned out to be a non-issue. Some
of it was natural, the rest was just
smelly exhaust fumes leaking
b/c I had to reuse my old dp gasket. For a
while I was fearing
a blown head gasket, but this would probably have
produced
billowing white smoke, and I ran a compression test which
showed
compression in all cylinders to be excellent.
Low/Laggy boost
turned out to be a two part issue:
2) I put a bit too much faith on my
torque wrench, so I hadn't
adequately tightened down the 7 front plenum
bolts. Tightening
them down solved the severe lagginess in the low
rpms, the loud
hissing noise, and gave me more boost, but my boost was
still
limited to about 7 psi.
You'd think this was a boost controller
problem, right? Nope.
I had totally unpluggd the hoses to the wastegate
actuators ...
3) I have the Blitz BOV installed on my car along with the
stock
air bypass valve. I had purposely left the hose from the
ABV
to the plenum unplugged and plugged up. I was assuming
that this
would keep it from opening so that only the Blitz would
be working.
Stupid Stupid Errin! In fact, if this nipple on the
ABV (or BOV) is
unplugged, it will ~open~ once boost is high
enough (since there's nothing to
equalize the pressure coming
from the Y-pipe side of the spring). Well,
at least NOW I know
how a BOV/ABV works! :)
I REALLY want to
remove the stock ABV from the system
(since it's leaky), so I'd appreciate it
if someone could tell me
what I need and how to do this. So far, I
haven't been able to
find anything at Home Depot which will do the
trick.
The car has been running great on the new 15G's for a
couple
weeks now. The nicest thing is that I really haven't noticed
any
increase in lag or spoolup time whatsoever. At the low to
low-
mid rpms, the car feels no different than before. If there was
an
increase in lag/spoolup, it must have been very slight. Of
course,
my 15G's are neither clipped nor ported.
If you have any
further questions about all this stuff, feel free to
send me an email.
:)
- --Errin Humphrey
94 VR4 - 15G
Seattle
P.S. I also
installed the new Apexi AFC recently. If you want
to see the cool way I
installed the display unit (in front of one of
the middle dash vents), ask me
via private email and I'll send you
a pic.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 15:36:43 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Replacing valve stem seals
Is it possible to get the valve stem seals
with the lifters out and the
heads still on the engine? Thanks in
advance.
Matt
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 14:01:22 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Gauge Light Wires
I realize questions about wiring for
EGT/boost/etc.
gauges have come up a million times on this list, but
I
still have a few questions which I haven't found
answers to while searching
through my archives....
1) My GReddy EGT gauge wants "12v power
source
line (+)" for the red wire to the data link unit. Is this
the
same as "IG Power," the fat red wire to the ECU?
(same one I
used for the AFC?)
2) Where is gets confusing is that the GReddy gauge
also
has an orange wire which wants "Ignition Line (+)." It
would
seem like this one should maybe to go IG Power instead
(IG =
ignition?), but then where does the above red wire go?
[For comparison, the
Apexi EGT gauge only uses one wire
which goes to IG Power]
The only
other power line I can think of is "Constant Power"
which was
necessary to wire in the (old) Apexi AVC-R.
3) Regarding having dimming
functions for gauge lighting,
here's a snippet from an old
post:
>> I seem to remember that the dimmer just varies the
ground...am I right?
>> If so how do I wire up the light. One wire to
12V solid when the lights are
>> on and one wire to the
rheostat?
>Ken Middaugh responded:
>Just put a volt meter on the
dimmer rheostat wires with the dash lights on
>bright, then on dim.
You should be able to find a pair of wires that measures
>higher voltage
on bright and lower voltage on dim. Just wire up to them.
Is there
any way to tell (using a VOM) which is positive and
which is negative?
Can anyone tell me which are the exact
wires to use? I don't want to
screw things up. :)
4) Let's say I just want to get power for
lighting straight off of
the harness to the ECU instead. Can someone
tell me which
wire I need to use? (I don't have the elec. service
manual.) My
car is a US '94 (4-connector ECU harness), and I'd
appreciate it
if someone could just tell me something like, "second
connector
from the left, bottom row, fifth wire from the left" for the
"Parking
Light Line (+)" which I think is also known as the
"Tail Light Relay."
This is the wire with 12 volts when the parking
lights are on.
Thanks!
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 00:22:48 +0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Gearbox Backup Light Switch
I have the
following problem with my Gremlinomobile (92 Stealth RT/TT,
manual of
course)
When I engage reverse, the rear backup lights wery briefly flash,
and,
that's all.
I've been told that I have to re-aligh the Gearbox
backup light switch.
I found a couple references to that switch in the
car's technical manual, I
even know that it's "supposed" to be
under the center console, and I even
know how it's looking for a stealth with
an Auto trans......but, no luck to
locate it in my manual car.
Can
someone help me ?
I got an access to the gera cables, and had a SERIOUS,
LONG look in there,
and under the radio, and I cannot see NOTHING looking
like a backup light
switch....
Any ideas
??
Henri
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 15:34:56 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gauge Light Wires
Errin
> 1) My GReddy EGT gauge wants
"12v power source
> line (+)" for the red wire to the data link
unit. Is this the
> same as "IG Power," the fat red wire
to the ECU?
> (same one I used for the AFC?)
I assume they want
unswitched 12v --- the cigarette lighter is easy
unswitched
power.
=============================================
> 2) Where is
gets confusing is that the GReddy gauge also
> has an orange wire which
wants "Ignition Line (+)." It would
> seem like this one
should maybe to go IG Power instead
I would assume they are asking for
switched power [ ignition ].
the accessory plug in on the console is switched
power. Just pop the
panel out with a
screwdriver.
=============================================
>
>> I seem to remember that the dimmer just varies the ground...am I
right?
> >> If so how do I wire up the light. One wire to 12V solid
when the lights are
> >> on and one wire to the rheostat?
>
I just looked at my setup ---- I tied directly into dimmer rheostat, the
assembly
just pops out and the connector going into the rheostat has three
wires , I tapped
into the green/white and the black/white wires. Not sure
which is + as I didn't
have a meter with me, but lights don't care about
polarity.
Jim Berry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:50:27 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TuRbO Questions (resolved)
Errin Humphrey wrote:
> The
car has been running great on the new 15G's for a couple
> weeks
now. The nicest thing is that I really haven't noticed any
>
increase in lag or spoolup time whatsoever. At the low to low-
> mid
rpms, the car feels no different than before. If there was an
>
increase in lag/spoolup, it must have been very slight. Of course,
>
my 15G's are neither clipped nor ported.
I've been breaking in my new
15G's and they feel the same as the stock
9B's around town too. My 15G's
aren't clipped or ported either. They're
GREAT turbos...the thing hauls some
serious butt. Not as much of a gain
as I'd hoped though. Probably only good
for 12.4X in the quarter on 91
Octane. I think the gas is holding me back.
Anything over 14.9-15.6 psi
and the EGT's hit 1640+F even though I'm
maintaining .94-.96V on the
O2's....
Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC
Typhoon
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 15:55:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Replacing valve stem seals
> Is it possible to get the valve stem
seals with the lifters out and the
> heads still on the engine? Thanks in
advance.
Matt
I don't know about the 3/S cars, but I've
changed seals with the valves in
place by pressurizing the cylinder with
compressed air to keep the valve in
place [ I modified a spark plug to
pressurize the cylinder ]. I used the old
socket and hammer method to remove
the spring retainers. To reinstall the
valve springs I had to jury rig
a spring compressor since I didn't have one.
I'm sure a similar method could
be employed for the 3/S cars --- I don't think
I'd recommend it for the
marginally talented mechanical type
though.
Jim
Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 19:54:34 -0700
From: James Stephen Gula <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
TuRbO Questions (resolved)
> Probably only good for 12.4X in the
quarter on 91
> Octane.
If I'm not mistaken, didn't Mike Mahaffey
do that on stock turbos?
> I think the gas is holding me back.
Anything over 14.9-15.6 psi
> and the EGT's hit 1640+F even though I'm
maintaining .94-.96V on the
> O2's....
And what is the correlation
between EGT output and O2 sensor output? I
know the seriously modified
(capable of less than 11 second 1/4s)
VR-4/RT TTs see temperatures much
higher than 1640F under WOT/Full
Boost.
-
------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
- --
http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu-
------------------------------
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 20:02:58 -0400
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <
roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical gremlins
I have a few nagging problems with my
electrical system:
- - Horn doesn't work
- - Emergency flashers don't
work
- - Factory alarm doesn't work
- - SRS light stays on all the
time
- - High beams have a mind of their own, coming on and staying on almost
all
of the time (even when the low beams are on) any time I turn the
headlights
on. The blue high beam indicator on the dash comes on,
too. This problem
seems to get worse when it is cold
outside.
The fuses all look fine. Does anyone have any suggestions
as to where I
should begin troubleshooting?
Thanks,
Roger
Roskam
91 Stealth TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 19:12:57 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TuRbO Questions (resolved)
I'm pretty sure that Mike turned a
12.17 on the stock turbos with an
upgraded fuel system and race gas. EGT's
over 1650F will begin to melt
pistons. Not a good thing for a daily driver.
The reason that I mentioned
my O2 voltages was to show that I have plenty of
fuel and any extra would
be washing down the cylinder walls and fouling
plugs. (Speaking of plugs,
maybe I should change mine. The POS VPC I had in
my car fouled them out.
That could add a little HP...)
You have to
remember that most (if not all) of the 12.3+ runs were on
straight race gas
or a mix. People don't like to talk about the octane
requirements to run
those great times. It makes Japanese TT cars seem
inferior to the high
displacement musclecars with power adders that run
11's on pump gas. You
can't expect to get 500+HP out of 3 liters on
91(water injection aside). It's
not that good. Hate to sound like one of
those VTEC screaming ricers but
think about it this way. I'm making about
420HP out of 181 cubic inches of
displacement. A C5 would have to make
803HP to match my efficiency. I'm
pretty sure I'm eeking everything out of
that sucker.
I know I have
alot of overhead left with my 15G's and 550's. I'm sure that
if I put 100+
octane in it that it would run 11's. I have no doubts
about
that.
What's the best times out there on 94 or less octane
without water/alcohol
injection? It'd be a nice goal for me to shoot
for...
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.65@107.9 w/1.825 60'
Stock Turbos,
Fueling, Clutch, & Tires on 91 Octane
Now with 15G's, 550's, ARC2-GP Fuel
controller, HKS Fuel Pump, RPS Turbo
Clutch, and Enkei RP-01 rims
92 GMC
Typhoon
13.96@96.4 w/1.909 60'
James Stephen Gula wrote:
>
> Probably only good for 12.4X in the quarter on 91
> >
Octane.
>
> If I'm not mistaken, didn't Mike Mahaffey do that on
stock turbos?
>
> > I think the gas is holding me back. Anything
over 14.9-15.6 psi
> > and the EGT's hit 1640+F even though I'm
maintaining .94-.96V on the
> > O2's....
>
> And what is
the correlation between EGT output and O2 sensor output? I
> know the
seriously modified (capable of less than 11 second 1/4s)
> VR-4/RT TTs see
temperatures much higher than 1640F under WOT/Full
>
Boost.
>
> ------------------------------
> --Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula
> --http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
>
------------------------------
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 22:33:58 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Fluid Capacity???
OK guys - quick question: How much
brake fluid does it take to
completely flush & replace the fluid? (Not
just bleeding) I checked the
shop manual and can't find it there, and
it's been a while since I've
done it myself (the old memory banks are a bit
foggy). I need to know
how much fluid to buy. TiA.
Steve
Lasher
'92 VR-4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Apr 2000 22:33:10 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Fw: Team3S: ground control adjustable springs
>
>Do you need
coolers for autocross ??????? I thought that with the short
duration
>of the race, ducts would not be required.
You are
right.
>
Rich/old poop
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 00:51:02 EDT
From:
Playenfun@aol.comSubject: Team3S: The
antenna broke on my 92 SL, is it difficult to replace the mast only?
Hi, I have 1992 3000Gt, and the antenna broke, i can
hear the motor
running every time i turned on the radio, i called the dealer
and they told
me that i only need to replace the mast. Doesn anyone
know how difficult it
is to replace it, it is something that i could perhaps
do in a few hours? Any
answers will be greatly appreciated, thanx. Christian
E.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 00:59:39 EDT
From:
Playenfun@aol.comSubject: Team3S: the
antenna broke on my 92 SL, is it difficult to replace the mast only?
Hi, I have 1992 3000Gt, and the antenna broke, i can
hear the motor
running every time i turned on the radio, i called the dealer
and they told
me that i only need to replace the mast. Doesn anyone
know how difficult it
is to replace it, it is something that i could perhaps
do in a few hours? Any
answers will be greatly appreciated, thanx. Christian
E.
Sorry i sent this same exact message,
but i didn't write my e-mail adress
on it. But here it is
www.Playenfun@aol.comChristian E. 92
SL
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 May 2000 00:13:56 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Autocrosses, two at a time
I don't normally go autocrossing, but
I had to check out all my recent
equipment installations -- Eibachs, camber
plates and Big Reds -- so I
found a couple of events on Sunday.
1.
SCCA: Slow, Slow, Slow.
The first was an SCCA event in a parking lot the
size of a postage stamp.
They took one look at my suspension and brake work,
and stuck me in A/SR
(street prepared). I won the class easily (being the
only entrant). By the
time I left, it looks like I also won all the classes
that would have been
bumped up to A/SR to form a class, so I guess I got a
trophy.
Problem was, I ran the entire event in 1st gear. It was set up as
a Figure
8. Fortunately, there were no slaloms (yuk), but it had a
vicious
arrangement called a "Chicago Box," intended to slow cars
down to zero mph.
You come into this thing under hard braking to about zero
mph, then jink to
the left, accelerate, then jink left again, and pass
through the
start/finish line. Its entire purpose is to slow you down so you
can get
through the start/finish line without wiping out the starter and
timing
lights. It really means that you wind up wrestling the steering wheel
left
right left right while jerking the car around violently at 10 mph.
BFD.
What this has to do with real racing is totally beyond me. Like we do
this
on a real track?
The weird part was that I was getting beaten by
cars in STOCK classes: A
little shitbox car in E/S and a big, bad F/S Camaro
Z28. These were covered
with racing stickers and decals because they ran on
the national circuit,
and therefore were "stock" in name only but
still...this should not happen
to a VR4. Where is the justice?.
Once
again, I am swearing off SCCA events, unless I need another tuneup
event.
Their autocrosses do not in any way resemble REAL racing.
2. Corvette
Club: Fast, Fast, Fast!
As soon as the SCCA event was over, I zipped over
to the Corvette Club and
caught the second of two events. (If I had known
about this one earlier in
the day, I woulda skipped the SCCA event, but here
in Cedar Rapids, the
clubs don't talk to each other or publicize their
events. I have complained
loudly about this to no
avail.)
Nevertheless, Corvette guys understand the need for speed! The
Cedar Rapids
Corvette Club set up an autocross at the Hawkeye Downs race
track, a
half-mile paved, banked oval with a quarter mile paved oval in the
middle.
The course was: flying start to the start/finish line, run the half
mile
oval, run the quarter mile oval, and run the half mile oval again. The
only
pylons were set up to keep us in the low groove on the big oval, and a
gate
on the back straight to slow us down a little before heading into NASCAR
3
on the oval.
The entire lap was 0.5 mile plus 0.25 mile plus 0.5
mile, or 1.25 miles.
The fastest lap posted was a 1:05, meaning the average
speed was
about...let's see, 1:05 is about 1.10 minutes divided by 1.25 miles
= 0.88
min/mile = 66 mph average.
I had a 1:07, which was 5th fastest
among 62 cars, and it was my first time
on the track. We only got two tries.
My first was 1:11, but I saw that the
VR4 could take the banking at a much
higher speed. The first time through,
I ran it in 2nd and 3rd; the second
time was all 3rd gear. It's hard to see
the speedo on an event like this, but
I think I hit 80+ on the back
straight just before the gate, 90 on the front
straight, and 70+ through
the banking (whatever 4500 rpm in third is). One
more run, and I think I
could have cut off another couple of seconds, and
been knocking on the door
for FTD. At the least, I think I won First Guest,
which is where the
Corvette Club classifies anybody who might beat
them.
There was hardly any braking involved, so I really couldn't test
the Big
Reds. I tapped the brakes at NASCAR 1, NASCAR 3 and the quarter mile
entry,
but that was about it for braking.
The alignment
settings -- minus 1 deg camber, +0.15 deg toe and +4.5 deg
caster -- seemed
to work fine. In the banked turns, the car cornered
neutral: no push, no
oversteer. But like I said, I was still learning the
track, and would need to
work up to the maximum, and see which way it went
during a hot lap. Can't
learn much with just two runs. On the SCCA postage
stamp track, it seemed to
push a little, but such a course is not
indicative of real racing, so I am
discounting it.
This was my second Corvette club event in a year. Last
time, I beat all the
Vettes except one. This time, we had trailered-in cars
from Kansas,
Nebraska, Missouri and Illinois, but I still got 5th fastest. I
love
Corvette Club autocrosses!
For those of you who are still
doubting the ability of a VR4 at
autocrossing, doubt no more. Our cars kick
butt. There is no problem with
brakes on an autocross, and the stock
suspension works pretty good in sport
mode. Just pump the tires to 44/38 so
they don't roll under. My only
suggestion is to stay away from SCCA and stick
to Corvette Club events.
It's the difference between running in 1st gear v
running in 3rd!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Eibachs, camber plates, Brad's
Big Red Porsche brakes, SS lines, Pagid
Blacks, Yoko 032R tires. Stock
engine.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 09:17:00 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pump
Comparisons - Update
The Weldon pump model A2005-C is usable for both
street & strip.
They do make a higher flow racing only model but since I
was using two pumps,
I chose the A2005-C. The pump & regulator was
$1400.00 (That's one pump &
regulator) Ouch.
Arty 91 VR-4
In
a message dated 4/29/00 3:16:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
fastmax@home.com
writes:
<<
> I'm adding one more fuel pump to this
topic that I have never seen talked
> about
It's the Weldon
A2005-C expensive but you'll see why.
> Check the specifications &
flow rates in the very last column. Two of
these
> may be overkill
but that's the setup.
> Arty 91 VR-4
I looked around the web and
saw the pump advertised --- what is the price ??
and is it designed for
continuous duty or is it a drag racing pump.
>>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 May 2000 07:31:59 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Autocrosses, two at a time
A: Slow, Slow, Slow.
-
---
Wrong, skill, skill, skill!
The first was an SCCA
event in a parking lot the size of a postage stamp.
They took one look at my
suspension and brake work, and stuck me in A/SR
(street prepared). I won the
class easily (being the only entrant). By the
time I left, it looks like I
also won all the classes that would have been
bumped up to A/SR to form a
class, so I guess I got a trophy.
- ---
Ya..I cant answer for a region
that cant find a decent place to race, Tulsa
region had an entire airfield
until this year..even held national style events.
Problem was, I ran
the entire event in 1st gear. It was set up as a Figure
8. Fortunately, there
were no slaloms (yuk), but it had a vicious
arrangement called a
"Chicago Box," intended to slow cars down to zero mph.
You come
into this thing under hard braking to about zero mph, then jink to
the left,
accelerate, then jink left again, and pass through the
start/finish line. Its
entire purpose is to slow you down so you can get
through the start/finish
line without wiping out the starter and timing
lights. It really means that
you wind up wrestling the steering wheel left
right left right while jerking
the car around violently at 10 mph. BFD.
What this has to do with real
racing is totally beyond me. Like we do this
on a real track?
-
---
Well, a chicago box is very tricky, it can be taken at rather high
speeds once
you master it, an autox course is not about speed, but
skill. No, you wouldnt
be doing most of the things on a road course,
but they ARE skills to be
mastered, so tread lightly on the
"boring..blahh...too slow, etc" feelings
*grin*. With proper
braking technique you could have probly cleared that box at
about 30mph..I
have some 'extreme video' of a course in Houston from last jul7
4th, where
the put a box on the inside of a 60deg turn as well! That was a
mind
boggler at speed. Must do a capture on that this week for
ya. At that
particular Houston event I destroyed all takers in my
class, and most classes
above it. Sure is fun beating Porsche's.
Just dont.."Like we do this on a real
track?" unless you can
respect the sport in and of itself. I dont like
defending what my wife
and I do on a national level simply because someone
doesnt like the speed
-vs- skill comparisons. (not a slam..please *grin*)
Damnit! I wish
more Bay Area (SF) Team3S people were into AutoX, because Id
actually have an
audience to teach this to!!!
The weird part was that I was
getting beaten by cars in STOCK classes: A
little shitbox car in E/S and a
big, bad F/S Camaro Z28. These were covered
with racing stickers and decals
because they ran on the national circuit,
and therefore were
"stock" in name only but still...this should not happen
to a VR4.
Where is the justice?.
- ---
It was skills you are lacking in the
various routines to be found in an autox.
Go take a McKammey AutoX school
when you can..you'll learn a _lot_.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 May 2000 11:38:07 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Autocrosses, two at a time
>Wrong, skill, skill,
skill!
You are absolutely right, of course. Guys who run autocrosses on a
national
level are very skilled and incredibly smooth. You can spot the fast
guys
from a mile away because they don't look fast, don't slide the car
around,
don't make many apparent violent movements, but they cover a course
several
SECONDS faster than amateurs in their class. >
>
> No,
you wouldnt
>be doing most of the things on a road course, but they ARE
skills to be
>mastered, so tread lightly on the "boring..blahh...too
slow, etc" feelings
>*grin*.
I didn't say boring, did
I? It wasn't boring.
> Just dont.."Like we do this on a
real
>track?" unless you can respect the sport in and of
itself. I dont like
>defending what my wife and I do on a national
level simply because someone
>doesnt like the speed -vs- skill
comparisons. (not a slam..please *grin*)
My apologies. Anyone who
competes at a national level is to be admired.
>The weird part was
that I was getting beaten by cars in STOCK classes: A
>little shitbox car
in E/S and a big, bad F/S Camaro Z28. These were covered
>with racing
stickers and decals because they ran on the national circuit,
>and
therefore were "stock" in name only but still...this should not
happen
>to a VR4. Where is the justice?.
>---
>
>It was
skills you are lacking in the various routines to be found in
an
autox.
Points taken.
Guess I still have a lot to learn.
Rich/old dog trying to learn new tricks
***Info:
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End
of team3s V1 #121
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