team3s            Saturday, April 29 2000            Volume 01 : Number 119




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Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:47:52 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Camber Plates: Oops!

Oops. I don't even know where I live

Work was done at Denny's Muffler in Cedar Rapids, IOWA.

Sorry about that.

Rich

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 22:55:13 EDT
From: DOWNDRIVEN1@cs.com
Subject: Team3S: (no subject)

anyone know how much it costs to get my lifters fixed on my 1992 vr-4. they
tick when i first start my car and lasts about 10 min. it is getting real
annoying.                i also have a plymouth laser turbo and am looking at
buying another one but this one has a intermitent stalling problem. it will
run for 20 min then stall when you start it again it will run for 15 min then
stall. the stalling time gets closer together untill it wont start untill you
let it sit for 10 min. does anyone know what is wrong with this car or should
i stay away from buying it. thank you  alex

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 22:47:55 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber Plates are in!

I had the same problem figuring out which way those damn this go in! I Ended
up calling Ground Control to confirm what the proper mounting position was.
The plates mount the strut off center wheras the stock mount has the shocks
exactly center. You mount the plates so the strut is behind the centerline.
This increases castor alignment for better turn in. I shoulda put a install
tips section on that particular install... oh well. I'm not a suspension
expert but I kinda know the basics...

Merrit, I don't remember what my Castor setting is but my only concern was
equalising the castor between the two front wheels. I know I am running more
castor than stock since the strut centerline is now behind the centerline of
the strut tower hole.

I still have not attempted the change between street and stock settings as
my "race" setup seems to work fine on the street. I am running 2.2 degrees
negative camber (approx... don't remember exactly) with slight toe-in.  My
tire wear is very acceptable! I don't understand why but I'm not
complaning!! But, I do NOT understand what the difficulty would be in
setting by using "marks" for street and track. The actual adjustment points
are easy to get to with only a floor jack.

BTW, I had absolutley no problem installing the camber plates in my garage.
It was not that hard and I'd do it again. The hardest thing (besides
deciphering the instalation diagrams!) was trying to align the camber plate
in the center of the strut tower hole. I missed....  its not perfect but I
had enough adjustability to make it work. I've been thinking about enlarging
the holes to get more adjustability and I will in the future. But the actual
install was quite simple....

I have a camber guage and I have the ability to measure castor. I need to
purchase a toe guage. Once I do, I have no fear in doing my own alignment in
my garage. It really isn't that hard, in my opinion.

Just to let you know, after I did the install, I got lazy and did NOT take
the car to get an alignment. When I finally did, the only thing that was off
was toe! That's because of the ride height change. Castor was equal and
acceptable and camber was exactly where I thought it was. Watkins' Smart
Camber gauge is pretty damn good! I guess my measuring was pretty close
since the castor was equal!



Jose Soriano
visit my Stealth site at www.3si.org/amahoser



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 01:43:49 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber Plates are in!

At 10:47 PM 4/27/00 -0700, you wrote:
>I had the same problem figuring out which way those damn this go in! I Ended
>up calling Ground Control to confirm what the proper mounting position was.

Did you have trouble with the ride height? I can't believe it dropped down
so much. What about the ECS connector? Does yours stick up as high as mine?
>
>Merrit, I don't remember what my Castor setting is but my only concern was
>equalising the castor between the two front wheels. I know I am running more
>castor than stock since the strut centerline is now behind the centerline of
>the strut tower hole.

Yeah, we had trouble matching them up, too. The plates don't slide very well.
>
>I still have not attempted the change between street and stock settings as
>my "race" setup seems to work fine on the street. I am running 2.2 degrees
>negative camber (approx... don't remember exactly) with slight toe-in.

Wow! 2.2 neg? Amazing. When we check the tire temps, if I need more camber
I won't be afraid to go higher. I'm running 0.15 positive toe because a BMW
instructor suggested it. Are you running autocrosses or open track?

My
>tire wear is very acceptable! I don't understand why but I'm not
>complaning!! But, I do NOT understand what the difficulty would be in
>setting by using "marks" for street and track. The actual adjustment points
>are easy to get to with only a floor jack.

I watched him adjust everything with the computer, and every little
adjustment here caused a change there. It seemed terribly sensitive. 
>
>BTW, I had absolutley no problem installing the camber plates in my garage.
>It was not that hard and I'd do it again. The hardest thing (besides
>deciphering the instalation diagrams!) was trying to align the camber plate
>in the center of the strut tower hole. I missed....  its not perfect but I
>had enough adjustability to make it work. I've been thinking about enlarging
>the holes to get more adjustability and I will in the future. But the actual
>install was quite simple....

For you maybe. You must be a mechanical wizard.>

>I have a camber guage and I have the ability to measure castor. I need to
>purchase a toe guage. Once I do, I have no fear in doing my own alignment in
>my garage. It really isn't that hard, in my opinion.

Yep, you are a mechanical wizard.
>
>Just to let you know, after I did the install, I got lazy and did NOT take
>the car to get an alignment. When I finally did, the only thing that was off
>was toe! That's because of the ride height change. Castor was equal and
>acceptable and camber was exactly where I thought it was. Watkins' Smart
>Camber gauge is pretty damn good! I guess my measuring was pretty close
>since the castor was equal!

Maybe you should write up the install with photos for the 3S web site.
Thanks for posting that photo. It helped a lot.

Rich/old poop



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 00:44:59 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber Plates are in!

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
> Did you have trouble with the ride height? I can't believe it dropped down
> so much. What about the ECS connector? Does yours stick up as high as
mine?
No trouble with ride height, I just raised up the adjusting collar on the
coil-overs. I have the GAB shocks/struts so there is no ECS connector.

> Wow! 2.2 neg? Amazing. When we check the tire temps, if I need more camber
> I won't be afraid to go higher. I'm running 0.15 positive toe because a
BMW
> instructor suggested it. Are you running autocrosses or open track?
I run open track type events.... I tried autocross... didn't like it. Only
3-5 runs! As soon as I get accustomed to the course, the event is over! I
always end up wanting lots more track time. Guess I'm a slow learner! BTW,
at Streets of Willow, once air pressure was set, tire temps were pretty damn
even across the tires' surface! Guess I got lucky! I did that event RIGHT
after installing the GC stuff! WITHOUT a real alignment! Guess I got lucky!!

> Yep, you are a mechanical wizard.
Nope! I just try to do as much as I can myself. Just got 368 Turbos and a
custom header from GT-Pro BUT I got Brian to install it! Some things, I'd
rather leave to the experts!

> Maybe you should write up the install with photos for the 3S web site.
> Thanks for posting that photo. It helped a lot.
been thin'n about doing that! I actually have plans for a writeup on my GC
coilover install and intercooler temp gauge install and readings... soon as
I have time!



Jose Soriano
visit my Stealth site at www.3si.org/amahoser





***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 07:03:46 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen H4 Conversion Kit

I remember seeing something about an H4 headlight conversion kit for the 1st
gen cars.  Where would I get one of these kits?

Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 09:15:43 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: (no subject) - Ticking lash adjusters.

Before you go to that expense, first try the a/t fluid switch first.  Next
oil change, add 1 quart of auto tranny fluid to your regular engine oil.  Of
course, don't put in as much regular oil.  Leave this in there for 1-3000
miles.  Then change the oil back to normal.  The a/t fluid is highly
detergent and should thoroughly clean all of the oil passages.

- -Cody

#anyone know how much it costs to get my lifters fixed on my 1992
#vr-4. they
#tick when i first start my car and lasts about 10 min. it is getting real
#annoying.                i also have a plymouth laser turbo and am
#looking at
#buying another one but this one has a intermitent stalling
#problem. it will
#run for 20 min then stall when you start it again it will run for
#15 min then
#stall. the stalling time gets closer together untill it wont start
#untill you
#let it sit for 10 min. does anyone know what is wrong with this
#car or should
#i stay away from buying it. thank you  alex
#
#***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 16:21:26 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1st Gen H4 Conversion Kit

I got mine from GT-PRO [Brian@GTPRO.COM]

> > Hella lights are $42.00 each plus shipping

They're working nicely in my 92 Stealth

Best

Henri

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Chris Maxwell
Sent: Friday, 28 April 2000 16:04
To: team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen H4 Conversion Kit


I remember seeing something about an H4 headlight conversion kit for the 1st
gen cars.  Where would I get one of these kits?

Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 08:11:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen H4 Conversion Kit

http://www.autooptiks.com/ offers a kit. I installed it on my
car my no hassles. I called them to discuss the various
different color options.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 8:03 AM
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen H4 Conversion Kit

I remember seeing something about an H4 headlight conversion kit
for the 1st gen cars.  Where would I get one of these kits?

Thanks,
Chris Maxwell
92 TT


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 10:32:45 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Borla for $455 from CarParts (off-topic)

Hey everyone,

I know this is a little off-topic, so please reply to me privatly with any
comments.  From now until the end of April, you can get a Borla exhaust for
the twin turbos from CarParts.com for only $455, shipped!!

How you ask....  Go to my CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html and scroll down to the 25% off link. 
Follow the two "click here" links and that will give you the 25% off.  The
regular price for the Borla is $605.96, so this is a real steal.  Its even
better than the old $479 price that Jegs use to have.

Of course you can get 25% off anything else at CarParts with the link above
too...

Happy shopping,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 10:32:02 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Injectors..

Its time for my dumb question of the month.



Are the stock injectors 380s or 440s?

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 10:47:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injectors..

360s I believe here in the US. The part # on the inj. has 360
stamped into it. My "380s" are from RC cleaning and balancing
them.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 11:32 AM
Subject: Team3S: Injectors..

Its time for my dumb question of the month.

Are the stock injectors 380s or 440s?


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online and get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 00:09:27 -0700
From: "Kyle Patton" <smite@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: ground control adjustable springs

Hello,

I was just wondering if anyone here has the groundcontrol adjustable springs
on their car? How much leeway do I get in terms of lowering? I was also
wondering if I could pair these with the stock shocks or if I would be much
better off with Koni's or Gab's. If there is anyone here in the Bay Area who
has them, it would be much appreciated if they could suggest a reputable
shop where I could have them installed. Thanks.

Kyle Patton
black '94 3000gt base


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #119
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