team3s
Monday, April 24
2000
Volume 01 : Number
115
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 09:31:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 13g's cost?
Yes, I plan to weigh absolutely as much as I
possibly can
individually..and also do a before/after weight analysis to
catch any
errors in individual weights.
I may also end up with one
hell of a parts inventory as well..*heh*
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1995 Mitsu.
VR4
Plate: SPDTOY 2* 13.2@107
2000 Celica
GT-S
Plate: SPDTOY 3* 14.9@96Mph
1987 Supra
Turbo
Plate: SPDTOY 1* 13.38@104Mph
-
---------------------------------------------------
K&N FIPK,Spearco
IC,APEXi N1 Exhaust*,Custom Hardpipe Kit,Walbro Fuel Pump,
Custom
Aluminum-Alloy Flywheel,RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body,
Mueller Lightweight
Driveshaft*,HKS Downpipe*Lightweight Main Pulley**,
Full Redline Synthetic
Oils & WW,AEM Cam Gear (Intake)*,Dave Hall AFPR,
Greddy Type-S
BOV,Lightewight 16x8" Racing Wheels,HKS FCD,Greddy EGT Guage,
ST Swaybar
Set,Eibach Pro Spring Set,Tokico-II TEMS Struts,
APEXi (new) AVC-R,Broward
Dual-Friction Clutch*,BM150 Electric Fan
Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated
Rotors, crossdrilled*,Porterfield R4-S Pads*,
Full DOT 5.1 Brake
fluid,Goodridge SS Brake lines,Dunlop SP8000 tires.
Yes..all this on a stock
HG too @75-80lbs..I ferget.
+++
* On order
** Being
developed
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 14:38:57 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Weight loss (was: RE: Team3S: 13g's cost?)
The entire back seat
(bottom plus both top halves) weighs 24 lbs. The
bottom weighs 7 lbs
and the top halves weigh 17 lbs together (about 8.5
lbs each). This is
with leather covering (cloth covering may be
different, but not by
much).
This amounts to about 6 tenths of a percent (0.6%) of the total
car's
weight. Not real helpful in the ¼, but certaintly gives
those of us
without a trailer (yet) more room for tires, jacks, air tanks,
etc.
- -Steve
'92 VR-4
>I'm curious as to knowing how
much weight people think they will lose
>by removing the back seat. The
entire backseat (bottom half and top two
>sides) total can't weigh
more than 10lbs at most.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 13:21:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warranty
- -----Original Message-----From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
>I have
had a few responses regarding an extended warranty for my
1992
3000GT
>VR-4 with about 72,000 miles on it. Is there anyone
out there who
has
>actually purchased an extended warranty for their
car and made a
claim?
>I know of Platinum Corporation, and someone
mentioned Allstate.
There must
>be more. Please help me with this
before something breaks.
I don't have new data for you, but while
we're on the subject... I'm
trying to put together a page on
aftermarket warrantys for the Team3S
website, so anyone with info should post
it here and copy me...
I'm about to sign on with a company that does NOT
warranty the turbo
models, but offers a "Platinum Plan" for 3S NT's
over 4 years old for
$1150. They've offered a Team3S discount of either
$75 off the price
OR a zero deductible instead of the normal $50
deductible. Their site
is at
www.1sourceautowarranty.com , and
you can reach their rep,
Robert Frye at
rfrye@1sourceautowarranty.com or
1-888-905-5700.
Mention Team3S to get the discount.
Please, keep
the info coming...
TIA,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 13:43:10 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Trailer hitch
> Out of curiosity, I just pulled out the factory manual
for my 1994
> Stealth Twin Turbo ... on page 138, it clearly says, and I
quote ...
>
> "Trailer Towing
> Do not use
your car for trailer towing."
>
> Pretty hard to misinterpret
that one, doesn't look like much gray area
> to me. I guess the
translation from the manufacturer is "you've been
> warned, tow
anything (even only a couple of hundred pounds) at your own
>
risk".
==========================================================
Get
a grip guys ---- the car is capable of holding 550hp, doing 0-60 in 4.2
sec,
the 1/4 mi in 11sec @ 120+ mph and you guys think a 500# trailer is
going to
be a problem.
It's the same weight as three
passengers.
A trailer hitch will NOT void your warranty nor cause you to
go blind or grow hair
on the palm of your hand.
Most transmission
problems are related to the synchros.
Back in the old days of sports car
racing the cars were driven to the track by
the drivers usually towing a
trailer. The big buck teams actually had a car
trailer and a tow
vehicle.
Jim
Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 14:14:58 -0700
From: "Ian Marks" <
ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trailer hitch
I got a receiver hitch mainly to carry my
skiis. It works great - nothing
touches the surface of the car. I have also
towed a small (the smallest they
had) U-haul box trailer with no
problems.
If you run into a dealer that's giving you a hard time tell him
it's not for a
trailer it's for a bike rack.
- ---------
Ian
Marks
L. A.
'94 RT-Turbo
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 19:31:19 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Notchy Shifter
> I have a newly installed Getrag from MD Auto
(reman), RPS
> Turbo Clutch, and am experiencing a VERY notchy
shifter
> problem - whether running or not, it feels as if I am
>
pushing the shifter thru a spring. And, if the car is
> running, I
occasionally get a grind going into first or even
> second (NOT a synchro
problem!!! I'm sure!).
The grind is most likely a misadjusted
clutch. Under the dash, the rod that pushes on the clutch cylinder is
adjustable - make the rod "longer" so it pushes more into the cylinder
and hopefully that'll solve most of your problems. The shifter will
probably feel notchy if the motor isn't running just because since the parts
aren't spinning, they don't always line up exactly. If you adjust the
clutch settings (find the specs and procedure in the service manual) and you
still have notchy shifting, get ahold of MD Auto and see what they say - could
be a bad rebuild.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 20:10:00 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Trailer hitch
> Besides the fact that it will absolutely,
positively void
> your powertrain warranty.
Why? If I tow a
100 pound trailer with 100 pounds of tires/wheels/etc on it, how is that
different than having a passenger in my car? Since there are four seats in
the car, it should be engineered well enough to carry an additional 600 pounds
of cargo (three people @ 200 pounds each). There's also the little fact
(which is a word you used a lot in your e-mail) that according to the
Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act, the person or corporation denying the warranty must
prove that the modification to the vehicle actually caused the part/assembly to
fail.
http://www.sema.org/consumer/warranty/Not
that going through litigation to force a dealer/manufacturer to honor their
warranty isn't going to be potentially expensive...
> Besides the fact
that pulling a trailer with an all wheel
> steering car is
dangerous.
Why is that dangerous? The wheel angle change on the
rear wheels is only 3 degrees maximum. The trailer follows the path of the
car (actually, the path of the trailer hitch). Why does that cause a
problem? The mechanics of towing aren't changed since the only
"input" the trailer follows is the hitch, and that's still going to
the same location it was on a "standard" car. The AWS system
causes the car to track more easily, it doesn't modify significanly the actual
track of the car.
Please enlighten us (or just me) on the
"fact" here.
> Besides the fact that pulling a trailer with
a 300+
> horsepower turbocharged sports-car is dangerous.
What does
the power of the car have to do with a danger factor? How is towing a
trailer with a 300 horsepower car different than towing a trailer with a 300
horsepower truck? How about a 300 horsepower non-sportscar? Is that
somehow less dangerous? A potentially worse handling vehicle, likely with
less capable brakes is safer because it has less potential (since horsepower is
governed by the driver's right foot) horsepower or a different body
layout?
> And besides the fact that the Getrag trannies and
transfer
> cases were definitely NOT designed for towing a
trailer,
How about putting four people in the car? As long as you
don't exceed the maximum weight capacity of the vehicle, then the tranny and
transfer case WAS designed to handle the weight of the trailer. Trailer,
passengers, groceries, lead weights - there's no difference in how the
powertrain views the weight. The difference is only in the human
perception that somehow a trailer is different.
> Don't get in an
accident pulling it because it will be
> your fault. Take it from
me.
Why is it my fault?
The car is capable of towing a trailer,
provided that you do it carefully. Don't accelerate quickly, leave room
between you and other vehicles, load the trailer with the correct weight
distribution (some weight on the tongue, more if the trailer wanders right to
left), and don't exceed the capacity rating of the hitch.
Of course,
those guidelines are for towing with ANY vehicle regardless of type, make,
model.
My personal experience is with my Eclipse GSX, towing 2000 pounds
worth of snowmobiles and trailer and similar weights of personal watercraft and
ATV's/Dirtbikes, and my friend's experience with his '91 VR4 towing the
same. Neither exhibited any instabilities at up to freeway speeds towing
those loads.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 01:32:25 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch fading
Recently, I had a mustang get me to do a quick
launch, and the clutch
slipped heavily until I let of the gas. Now, 2 months
later (and a lot of
babying) the clutch feels like it grabs at the top of
the clutch travel, and
any moderate stress on it makes it slip. Can I get
away with babying it, or
is it at a point that it should be changed now to
avoid other/more problems.
Tim
91 Stealth TT
Dallas,
TX
________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 21:28:43 -0500
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Trailer hitch
You must chill, Jim. :-) To be honest I didn't
care one way or the
other if someone was using their TT or VR-4 to tow
something ... The
only reason I responded with the information below was
because another
list member specifically said "doesn't Mitsu say that
the TT should be
used to tow no more than 500 lbs." I got curious
as to what Mitsu
actually "says" and just provided it for the list
to do with as they
will. No grip necessary, I'm completely relaxed and
calm. :-) Enjoy.
Greg
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > Out of curiosity, I just pulled out the factory manual for my
1994
> > Stealth Twin Turbo ... on page 138, it clearly says, and I
quote ...
> >
> > "Trailer Towing
>
> Do not use your car for trailer towing."
>
>
> > Pretty hard to misinterpret that one, doesn't look like much
gray area
> > to me. I guess the translation from the
manufacturer is "you've been
> > warned, tow anything (even only a
couple of hundred pounds) at your own
> > risk".
>
==========================================================
>
> Get
a grip guys ---- the car is capable of holding 550hp, doing 0-60 in 4.2
sec,
> the 1/4 mi in 11sec @ 120+ mph and you guys think a 500# trailer is
going to
> be a problem.
>
> It's the same weight as three
passengers.
>
> A trailer hitch will NOT void your warranty nor
cause you to go blind or grow hair
> on the palm of your hand.
>
> Most transmission problems are related to the synchros.
>
> Back in the old days of sports car racing the cars were driven to the
track by
> the drivers usually towing a trailer. The big buck teams
actually had a car
> trailer and a tow vehicle.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:04:28 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trailer hitch
I hate to belabor this subject, it's getting quite
old, however, I'm
going to pitch my $.02 in.
I was under the
impression that putting the strain of a trailer on the
car was not really a
transmission issue. The issue with a VR-4 or TT
and a trailer(or so
I've always heard) is the viscous coupling on the
drivetrain, it is not
designed to have the extra strain on it at all
times like you have while
pulling a load. Forget the extra wear and tear
on the clutch! The
braking system on the car is underdesigned
anyway....add more weight/momentum
for it to slow down.....you're
begging to have your rotors turned or replaced
frequently.
I've pulled a few small trailers around with probably 1000
lbs of crap
in it with my Wrangler...and I don't think I'd put that stress on
a car
that is ten times more expensive to repair and ten times more
difficult
to fix when it wears out....even at half that weight.
Face
it, Our cars should be ON trailers (to and from shows and or
the
track), not PULLING them.
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 21:17:06 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
denial of warranty coverage
Matt Jannusch provided the following link to
the SEMA site which
gives some useful information for those of you who have
had
warranties denied because of aftermarket mods.
Basically it
says ---- the warranty company must be able to prove
that the aftermarket
part caused the part to fail. It also details additional
steps to take ---- a
must read for anyone adding aftermarket parts to
their car.
The site
also has interesting local and national issues concerning
smog, noise issues
etc.etc.
It also includes the new CHP [ Ca. Highway Patrol ] guidelines
for
excessive noise with aftermarket exhaust.
http://www.sema.org/consumer/warranty/
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 21:55:09 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
denial of warranty coverage
> Matt Jannusch provided the following
link to the SEMA site which
> gives some useful information for those of
you who have had
> warranties denied because of aftermarket
mods.
> Basically it says ---- the warranty company must be able to
prove
> that the aftermarket part caused the part to fail. It also details
additional
> steps to take ---- a must read for anyone adding aftermarket
parts to
> their car.
>
> The site also has interesting local
and national issues concerning
> smog, noise issues etc.etc.
>
> It also includes the new CHP [ Ca. Highway Patrol ] guidelines for
> excessive noise with aftermarket exhaust.
>
>
http://www.sema.org/consumer/warranty/>
>
>
>
Jim Berry
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Apr 2000 23:25:11 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: For those who know more about turbos than me...
*Might as
well cross-post this one since it's just too darn good* :)
John
Adams wrote:
> The main thing is his question about 10 lbs being
different between the
> two different turbos and the answer is no. 10 lbs
is 10 lbs. Efficiency,
> performance and other factors would not be
considered in the equation
> because then you are adding variables not
referred to in the original
> question. Both being 10 lbs it is also
assumed they will both maintain
> 10 lbs. Since both are capable of more
is it feasible that both would be
> able to. Spooling times are also not
taken into consideration in the
> base question. It they were a 9g will
spool faster to 10 lbs than a 15g,
> common sense. He asked the question
assuming both had reached and both
> maintained 10 lbs. That is what my
answer was based upon for
> clarification.
His original question
was (paraphrased): Does a bigger turbo
(like the 20G) flow more air than a
smaller turbo (like the 9B)
at the same amount of boost (e.g. 10
psi)?
I attempted to explain that this question in itself presents a
gross
misunderstanding of most of the terms involved. The
proper
question is: "Is a particular turbo able to push enough air
to
maintain a particular boost level at a particular engine rpm?
And
if so, how efficient is the turbo at that point?"
Efficiency,
the turbo's capabilities, and engine airflow demand,
are VERY relevent to the
question at hand, and they allow one
to answer the basic question of
"HOW MUCH air is the turbo
flowing?" ~especially~ when you are
trying to respond to the
original questions
"universality."
If you don't consider these (and many other
issues I haven't even
mentioned such as compressor surge, turbine speed,
etc.), you aren't
even coming close to adequately answering the
question. Suffice
to say, your short response that "10lbs is
10lbs" is not a sufficient
answer to the question at
hand.
Why? "10lbs is 10lbs" applies at the grocery
market, but it's not
relevent in the world of fluid dynamics and
turbochargers.
Why? The purpose of a turbocharger is not to create
mass within
a gravitational field. In other words, your statement is
only true if
you are talking about the ~actual weight~ of air entering the
engine.
(But with 10lbs, this is not even close.)
10lbs (obviously)
refers to 10 lbs. per sq. inch. Once we're talking
about pressure in an
"active" system, things get more complicated . . .
The purpose
of a turbocharger is the creation of an air pressure gradient.
Similarly,
the heart's purpose is the creation of a fluid pressure
gradient within the
blood vessels. Blood pressure is a function of
the heart's ~total
output~ (heart rate x stroke volume) and the total
resistance (and
elasticity) from the vessels themselves as a result of
moving the
blood.
So comparing two turbos is like comparing the hearts of a fat
lazy
beer drinker and an Olympic marathon runner. They might both
be
maintaining an identical blood pressure (based on their activity),
but the
marathon runner will be "running cooler" because of a lower
heart
rate and a larger stroke volume. With gases instead of
blood,
"running cooler" translates into more air (and further
benefits from
cooler combustion temps).
Therefore, efficiency,
performance, and other factors ARE considered
in the equation (I'm surprised
that as a plumber, you don't realize this)
when comparing turbos, hearts, and
the like. :)
Hope you liked my analogy, y'all! ;)
-
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle
>Errin Humphrey
wrote:
>
>>
BILLNUTZ@aol.com
wrote:
>>
>> > for so long i thought this as
well...
>> > then someone mentioned 15Gs@10psi produce
more
>> > HP than 9Bs@10psi because the 15Gs have higher CFM
rating
>> > and therefore the presurized air is
cooler=HP.
>>
>> The reason the 15Gs will allow for more HP at
the
>> same psi level is because the compressor wheel isn't
>>
spinning as fast, and thus it is not heating the air as
>> much as the
9B is. This is called compressor efficiency.
>>
>> It is
not, repeat ~NOT~ because the 15G's have a higher
>> CFM rating.
I ~tried~ to explain this in my last email.
>>
>> I can
definitely think of examples where a turbo which
>> flows higher cfm
will be ~less~ efficient at a low boost
>> level (at a lower engine
rpm) when compared to a
>> smaller turbo. This actually pertains
to the 9Bs vs. 15G
>> to some extent.
>>
>> --Errin
Humphrey
>> Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 00:16:14 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Repost to the list.
"R.G." wrote:
> >
Over the past week I changed the Gasket on my Valve Cover and put on a
>
> split second upgrade.
>
> What is a split second upgrade ?? And
on an SL ?
>
> > When I started my car I was blowing thick white
smoke like
> > nobodies business.
>
> It's just running too
rich if the upgrade is what I'm thinking about.
Blowing thick white smoke
sounds like a blown head gasket.
Blown head gaskets are usually the result of
an excessively
lean condition.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 00:26:36 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 13g's cost?
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Well..what Im
doing is upgrading the VR4 turbos this coming week..and I
> need to choose
between the turbonetics upgrade (small upgrade) or 13s.
>
> I think
I want the Tnetics one, because it will keep my lag to a
> minimum..and
this will NOT be a dragstrip car. Full AutoX, which I will
> need
the lowest lag possible, but only a little more breathing room than
> the
stock spinners because you dont ever get much free run space in an
>
autox.
Most people report only a zero to negligible increase
in
spool-up time with the upgrade to 13G's, as far as
I know. I even
remember one person saying that they
felt less lag with the
13G's.
More importantly, even autocrossing, the car will be
near
redline most of the time, I imagine.
Since this is probably the case, it
still makes sense to
upgrade to the 13G's (or even 15G's) since they
are
much more efficient within the upper rpm range at
producing boost
levels above the paltry 8-10 psi at
which the stockers are conking out
at.
In fact, the only reason I personally might not want
15G's on an
autocross track is that you might have
problems with wheelspin.
:) With that aside, I would
go for the 15G's which put your 0-60 in the
3 second
range. I can't see how that's bad for auto-x.
Any
racecar should be tuned for power in its upper rpms.
:)
That's my 2 cents.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 11:32:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Did Compression Test - Carbon Buildup?
> So what might the
problem be? So far suggestions have been:
> rod bearing went bad (I
HOPE not...)
No, I doubt this although everything is possible. If a rod
bearing would be
gone, the rings and pistons would have more play and the
compression test would
show this.
> worn rings or pistons (doubtful
after the compression test)
Same as above.
> something wrong
with the valves (had a valve job 20k miles ago, but I did
> run the car
with low oil)
Our cars are not a big problem with low oil but do not like
the wrong oil.
> lash adjusters (which I think are okay)
Always
possible, but it is possible that one or some of them have air in
them.
> So a higher than normal compression in one of the cylinders
usually suggests
> carbon buildup, right? Could carbon buildup cause
this harsh noise that has
> plagued my car? If this is the problem,
can I clean it somehow?
Right, this is the cause for the higher
compression. But the carbon buildup also
improves preigniting the mixture
causing detonation or high speed knock what is
not good.
I'd recommend
doing two things :
1. Engine flush with oil change afterwards (of
course)
2. carbon removing in the entire fuel/intake system as well as the
chambers
There are several products available but we do have different
ones here in
Europe so I can't help here. I'm sure others know better. For
the 2nd I guess
Mopar has something good that must be pured into the chamber
and have to soacked
in of the night or so.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>
> Thanks a
bunch,
> Chris Maxwell
> 1992 R/T TT
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual
Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race
pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 07:38:09 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Warranty
Bob,
I have my warranty with Allstate. It is
called Parts & Labor Plus.
There are two different packages, Silver, and
Gold. The only additional
benefits of the Gold plan is AAA type
coverage (roadside assistance, trip
interruption expenses, etc...). The
coverage is excellent and they will
cover the TT models. They even
cover the timing belt, should it fail before
the scheduled service point
(60k). I was certain to check on the coverage
of the turbos and the
transmission before I bought it, and they are covered
as well. I have
only had one claim so far, to have the knock sensor
replaced, but they were
really good about covering that. Pricing was good,
I think it was $1100
for 3 years, 100k mile coverage on my '95 TT with 38K
on it at the
time. In my case it's going to be the 3 years long before the
car
reaches 100k, but for someone who drives theirs daily it is really a
good
deal. So far, I'm happy with it. We'll see how happy I am with
it
when it comes time to replace the tranny though, heh?
:-)
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [
SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent:
Sunday, April 23, 2000 3:21 PM
To: Patrick Spann; Team3S
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warranty
-----Original Message-----From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
>I have
had a few responses regarding an extended warranty for
my
1992
3000GT
>VR-4 with about 72,000 miles on it. Is there
anyone out there who
has
>actually purchased an extended warranty for
their car and made a
claim?
>I know of Platinum Corporation, and
someone mentioned Allstate.
There must
>be more. Please help me
with this before something breaks.
I don't have new data for you, but
while we're on the subject...
I'm
trying to put together a page on
aftermarket warrantys for the
Team3S
website, so anyone with info should
post it here and copy me...
I'm about to sign on with a company that does
NOT warranty the turbo
models, but offers a "Platinum Plan" for 3S
NT's over 4 years old
for
$1150. They've offered a Team3S discount
of either $75 off the
price
OR a zero deductible instead of the normal $50
deductible. Their
site
is at
www.1sourceautowarranty.com , and
you can reach their rep,
Robert Frye at
rfrye@1sourceautowarranty.com or
1-888-905-5700.
Mention Team3S to get the discount.
Please, keep
the info coming...
TIA,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 08:28:13 -0500
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Warranty
Sounds intriguing John .... do you have any contact info?
My extended warranty
is about to expire. Any deductible??
Thanks.
Greg
"Basol, John" wrote:
>
Bob,
> I have my warranty
with Allstate. It is called Parts & Labor Plus.
> There are two
different packages, Silver, and Gold. The only additional
> benefits
of the Gold plan is AAA type coverage (roadside assistance, trip
>
interruption expenses, etc...). The coverage is excellent and they
will
> cover the TT models. They even cover the timing belt, should
it fail before
> the scheduled service point (60k). I was certain to
check on the coverage
> of the turbos and the transmission before I bought
it, and they are covered
> as well. I have only had one claim so
far, to have the knock sensor
> replaced, but they were really good about
covering that. Pricing was good,
> I think it was $1100 for 3 years,
100k mile coverage on my '95 TT with 38K
> on it at the time. In my
case it's going to be the 3 years long before the
> car reaches 100k, but
for someone who drives theirs daily it is really a
> good deal. So
far, I'm happy with it. We'll see how happy I am with it
> when it
comes time to replace the tranny though, heh? :-)
>
> John
Basol
> '95
RT/TT
>
>
-----Original
Message-----
>
From: Bob Forrest [
SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2000 3:21
PM
>
To: Patrick Spann;
Team3S
>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Warranty
>
>
-----Original Message-----From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
>
>I have had a few responses regarding an extended warranty for my
>
1992
>
3000GT
> >VR-4 with
about 72,000 miles on it. Is there anyone out there
who
>
has
> >actually
purchased an extended warranty for their car and made
a
>
claim?
> >I know of
Platinum Corporation, and someone mentioned
Allstate.
> There
must
> >be more.
Please help me with this before something
breaks.
>
> I don't
have new data for you, but while we're on the subject...
>
I'm
> trying to put
together a page on aftermarket warrantys for the
>
Team3S
> website, so
anyone with info should post it here and copy
me...
>
> I'm about
to sign on with a company that does NOT warranty the
turbo
> models, but offers
a "Platinum Plan" for 3S NT's over 4 years old
>
for
> $1150. They've
offered a Team3S discount of either $75 off the
>
price
> OR a zero
deductible instead of the normal $50 deductible. Their
>
site
> is at
www.1sourceautowarranty.com , and
you can reach their rep,
>
Robert Frye at rfrye@1sourceautowarranty.com or
1-888-905-5700.
> Mention
Team3S to get the
discount.
>
>
Please, keep the info coming...
TIA,
>
>
Forrest
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 07:17:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 13g's cost?
> More importantly, even autocrossing, the car
will be
> near redline most of the time, I imagine.
-
---
Incorrect, you will be in the upper ranges MORE than you would for
street
driving, but you need the UMPH! out of a corner, or thru a
negotiated
'skill' course when instant response is required to consider
winning. But
to say you have the same requirements as road racing is
incorrect, most
autox's will have you launch in 1st, take the first few turns
all thru
first, then shift to second and NEVER shift back down, so the
down-low
spooltime is more important.
If I decide the Tnetics turbos
dont do the trick later, it'll be minor
financial penalty to upgrade
later.
> Since this is probably the case, it still makes sense
to
> upgrade to the 13G's (or even 15G's) since they are
> much more
efficient within the upper rpm range at
> producing boost levels above the
paltry 8-10 psi at
> which the stockers are conking out at.
>
> In fact, the only reason I personally might not want
> 15G's on
an autocross track is that you might have
> problems with wheelspin.
:) With that aside, I would
> go for the 15G's which put your 0-60
in the 3 second
> range. I can't see how that's bad for
auto-x. Any
> racecar should be tuned for power in its upper
rpms. :)
>
> That's my 2 cents.
>
> --Errin
Humphrey
> Seattle
>
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 09:23:44 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Warranty
Oh yeah, deductible info, sorry. The deductible I
have is $50. I am not
sure if they have different deductibles available
or not. As far as a
contact, I simply called our Allstate agent (we use
them for insurance as
well). I would suggest calling the closest agent,
they should be able to
help you out.
-
-John
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg S. [
SMTP:wizards@mhtc.net]
Sent: Monday,
April 24, 2000 8:28 AM
To: Basol, John
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Warranty
Sounds intriguing John .... do you have any contact info?
My
extended warranty
is about to expire. Any deductible??
Thanks.
Greg
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 07:59:59 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trailer hitch
I was under the impression that putting the
strain of a trailer on the
car was not really a transmission issue. The
issue with a VR-4 or TT
and a trailer(or so I've always heard) is the viscous
coupling on the
drivetrain, it is not designed to have the extra strain
on it at all
times like you have while pulling a load. Forget the extra wear
and tear
on the clutch! The braking system on the car is
underdesigned
anyway....add more weight/momentum for it to slow
down.....you're
begging to have your rotors turned or replaced
frequently.
- ---
How is a 500lb trailer harder on the coupling, than
500lbs of beer and friends
in the car with you? Explain.
I've
pulled a few small trailers around with probably 1000 lbs of crap
in it with
my Wrangler...and I don't think I'd put that stress on a car
that is ten
times more expensive to repair and ten times more difficult
to fix when it
wears out....even at half that weight.
- ---
Explain the additional
stress of trailer -vs- passenger weight.
Face it, Our cars should
be ON trailers (to and from shows and or the
track), not PULLING them.
-
---
Only for wussies. We -drive- our car to the events we
win.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 08:45:27 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Trailer hitch
> Face it, Our cars should be ON trailers (to and
from shows and or the
> track), not PULLING them.
> ---
>
> Only for wussies. We -drive- our car to the events we
win.
>
=================================================
If I
had to get my car to the track on a trailer I'd have to pull it with
a
harness.---- it sure would cut down on expenses. I couldn't even get
out
of my neighborhood.
Jim
Berry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Apr 2000 10:11:14 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch fading
> Recently, I had a mustang get me to do a
quick launch, and the clutch
> slipped heavily until I let of the gas.
Now, 2 months later (and a lot of
> babying) the clutch feels like it
grabs at the top of the clutch travel, and
> any moderate stress on it
makes it slip. Can I get away with babying it, or
> is it at a point that
it should be changed now to avoid other/more problems.
You can try
shortening the bolt between the clutch pedal and the vacuum assist
to see if
that lowers the grab point. It may give you a few more miles before
you
have to replace the clutch.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view
never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #115
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