team3s            Thursday, April 20 2000            Volume 01 : Number 112




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:08:55 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: fuel pump

These values are wrong, from what I can see.
They are so FAR wrong, at least in regards how much
the pumps flow at the rated PSI, so as to make the
whole thing un-trustable, IMO.  A technique
that comes up with such values, disproven  in
practice by many
of us using the HKS=Cosmo pumps to make over
500 and 600hp AT fuel pressures of 63-70psi, must
be wrong for us.  Maybe it is true unto itself,
but WHO KNOWS?   Lowell Foo tested the
MkIVSupra pump to over 110psi, still putting out good fuel
flow, through the whole DSM fuel system.
One wonders if it was a Walbro seller...

JT

>
> PSI     Walbro          Cosmo           MKIV       MKIII
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 26       60.0 gph       61.6 gph        60.4 gph     40.1 gph
> 30       58.1 gph       57.5 gph        55.4 gph     35.6 gph
> 40       51.0 gph       48.4 gph        47.2 gph     26.3 gph
> 50       43.9 gph       38.0 gph        37.3 gph     16.7 gph
> 60       37.3 gph       28.0 gph        28.7 gph      8.0 gph
> 70       32.1 gph       16.6 gph        16.5 gph      no test
> 80       20.9 gph       dribbling       dripping         no test
> 85       dribbling        no test           no test           no test
>
> :From: Oleg-Telia [mailto:Oleg@telia.lv]
> :I ordered HKS fuel pump from one webshop and received it,
> :"Denso" on it Serial number of that pump is 195130-0771. Does
> :anybody know:
> :1) could it be made by HKS;
> :2) if not, what kind of fuel pump it is?


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:22:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: fuel pump

I know the guy that did this..and with more talk it wasnt a perfect
test..read the rest of my messages before you start callin someone
dishonest 'because he must be a seller'.

Dave is aware he has a testing issue, and he also wants to figure out
whats not right as well.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1995 Mitsu. VR4                      Plate: SPDTOY 2*     13.2@107
2000 Celica GT-S                     Plate: SPDTOY 3*     14.9@96Mph
1987 Supra Turbo                     Plate: SPDTOY 1*     13.38@104Mph
- ---------------------------------------------------
K&N FIPK,Spearco IC,APEXi N1 Exhaust*,Custom Hardpipe Kit,Walbro Fuel Pump,
Custom Aluminum-Alloy Flywheel,RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body,
Mueller Lightweight Driveshaft*,HKS Downpipe*Lightweight Main Pulley**,
Full Redline Synthetic Oils & WW,AEM Cam Gear (Intake)*,Dave Hall AFPR,
Greddy Type-S BOV,Lightewight 16x8" Racing Wheels,HKS FCD,Greddy EGT Guage,
ST Swaybar Set,Eibach Pro Spring Set,Tokico-II TEMS Struts,
APEXi (new) AVC-R,Broward Dual-Friction Clutch*,BM150 Electric Fan
Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated Rotors, crossdrilled*,Porterfield R4-S Pads*,
Full DOT 5.1 Brake fluid,Goodridge SS Brake lines,Dunlop SP8000 tires.
Yes..all this on a stock HG too @75-80lbs..I ferget.
+++
*   On order
**  Being developed

On Wed, 19 Apr 2000, xwing wrote:

> These values are wrong, from what I can see.
> They are so FAR wrong, at least in regards how much
> the pumps flow at the rated PSI, so as to make the
> whole thing un-trustable, IMO.  A technique
> that comes up with such values, disproven  in
> practice by many
> of us using the HKS=Cosmo pumps to make over
> 500 and 600hp AT fuel pressures of 63-70psi, must
> be wrong for us.  Maybe it is true unto itself,
> but WHO KNOWS?   Lowell Foo tested the
> MkIVSupra pump to over 110psi, still putting out good fuel
> flow, through the whole DSM fuel system.
> One wonders if it was a Walbro seller...
>
> JT
>
> >
> > PSI     Walbro          Cosmo           MKIV       MKIII
> > -------------------------------------------------------------
> > 26       60.0 gph       61.6 gph        60.4 gph     40.1 gph
> > 30       58.1 gph       57.5 gph        55.4 gph     35.6 gph
> > 40       51.0 gph       48.4 gph        47.2 gph     26.3 gph
> > 50       43.9 gph       38.0 gph        37.3 gph     16.7 gph
> > 60       37.3 gph       28.0 gph        28.7 gph      8.0 gph
> > 70       32.1 gph       16.6 gph        16.5 gph      no test
> > 80       20.9 gph       dribbling       dripping         no test
> > 85       dribbling        no test           no test           no test
> >
> > :From: Oleg-Telia [mailto:Oleg@telia.lv]
> > :I ordered HKS fuel pump from one webshop and received it,
> > :"Denso" on it Serial number of that pump is 195130-0771. Does
> > :anybody know:
> > :1) could it be made by HKS;
> > :2) if not, what kind of fuel pump it is?
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:37:34 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: fuel pump

Thanks
I know the guy that did this..and with more talk it wasnt a perfect
test..read the rest of my messages before you start callin someone
dishonest 'because he must be a seller'.

Dave is aware he has a testing issue, and he also wants to figure out
whats not right as well.

- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 2:09 PM
To: Team3S; stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Re: fuel pump


These values are wrong, from what I can see.
They are so FAR wrong, at least in regards how much
the pumps flow at the rated PSI, so as to make the
whole thing un-trustable, IMO.  A technique
that comes up with such values, disproven  in
practice by many
of us using the HKS=Cosmo pumps to make over
500 and 600hp AT fuel pressures of 63-70psi, must
be wrong for us.  Maybe it is true unto itself,
but WHO KNOWS?   Lowell Foo tested the
MkIVSupra pump to over 110psi, still putting out good fuel
flow, through the whole DSM fuel system.
One wonders if it was a Walbro seller...

JT

>
> PSI     Walbro          Cosmo           MKIV       MKIII
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 26       60.0 gph       61.6 gph        60.4 gph     40.1 gph
> 30       58.1 gph       57.5 gph        55.4 gph     35.6 gph
> 40       51.0 gph       48.4 gph        47.2 gph     26.3 gph
> 50       43.9 gph       38.0 gph        37.3 gph     16.7 gph
> 60       37.3 gph       28.0 gph        28.7 gph      8.0 gph
> 70       32.1 gph       16.6 gph        16.5 gph      no test
> 80       20.9 gph       dribbling       dripping         no test
> 85       dribbling        no test           no test           no test
>
> :From: Oleg-Telia [mailto:Oleg@telia.lv]
> :I ordered HKS fuel pump from one webshop and received it,
> :"Denso" on it Serial number of that pump is 195130-0771. Does
> :anybody know:
> :1) could it be made by HKS;
> :2) if not, what kind of fuel pump it is?


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 14:45:41 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: fuel pump

Err..sorry for the double post.  *doh*

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 00:09:22 +0300
From: "Oleg-Telia" <Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Team3S: dyno test

Hi,

    Have anyone ever heard/used the device called Home Dyno
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm#digirecorder?
Any results and comments?

Oleg,
www.3000gt.lv





***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 15:26:13 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: dyno test

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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 16:11:33 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Repost to the list.

I was asked to send this to the list.


- ---
Over the past week I changed the Gasket on my Valve Cover and put on a split
second upgrade.  When I started my car I was blowing thick white smoke like
nobodies business.  Does anybody have a clue as to what may be wrong.  I am
already aware of the headgasket issue.  Can anybody think of any other
reasons.

I would greatly appreciate this Jeff.

Michael Steinebach
3000GT SL owner
- ---

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 21:14:51 -0400
From: smii <smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: HKS GCC

Hello everybody,
              With the use of a VPC and 550cc injectors,would the HKS
GCC be manditory, or could you run the VPC and injector upgrade without
using the GCC.

Thank you in advance
Boris Peguero


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 09:01:26 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Repost to the list.

> Over the past week I changed the Gasket on my Valve Cover and put on a
split
> second upgrade.

What is a split second upgrade ?? And on an SL ?

> When I started my car I was blowing thick white smoke like
> nobodies business.

It's just running too rich if the upgrade is what I'm thinking about.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 08:58:24 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS GCC

>               With the use of a VPC and 550cc injectors,would the HKS
> GCC be manditory, or could you run the VPC and injector upgrade without
> using the GCC.

If you have an EPROM that really does its work, no GCC is needed. The most
people I know got one alater for fine tuning.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 01:03:15 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re: For those who know more about turbos than me...

BRACATTAC@aol.com wrote:

> My friends and I have been having a big "discussion" today, the question is
> whether there is a difference between 10 psi on a stock turbo as opposed to
> 10 psi on a 20G turbo?  Also, where is the PSI tested on an engine?  What I
> said was that if the psi is tested on the turbo itself then yes, the 20 G
> would actually be pushing more air into the car if it is measured right in
> front of the trottle body then it would be the same.  On of my friends said
> its tested at the internal wastegate which is on the turbo itself, is this
> right?

None of this is right.  :)

Engine boost is generally measured at the intake plenum,
more specifically at the surge tank which is right before
the air is about to enter the intake manifold and go into the
engine.

Measuring pressure in front of the throttle body would give
boost readings incorrectly reflecting the air actually entering
your engine (esp. during shifts and deceleration).

Measuring pressure at the wastegate would tell you about
your post-turbine exhaust backpressure which has little to
do with how much boost you're making.  Maybe your friend
is talking about the wastegate ~actuator~ but this also is
not a good place to measure boost.

In comparing airflow and boost between different turbos,
many other factors come into play.

First of all, you should only be comparing them at a particular
engine rpm.  It's not whether one turbo "flows more than another
at X psi."  It's a question of whether a particular turbo is able
~at a particular engine rpm~ to supply enough air to that engine
in order to produce the desired amount of boost.

Then you must consider how efficient the turbo is at producing
that level of boost at that particular airflow level.  A more
efficient turbo will output air which is cooler and thus denser.

So at a low rpm (say 3000 rpms), both the stock 9B and
the big 20G have no problem "pushing" enough air to boost
another 10 psi over atmospheric pressure into the engine since
it doesn't require much airflow to do this.  However, the 20G
might actually be slow to get enough air moving because it's
such a big turbo, i.e. it's better fit for moving big chunks of air
rather than little chunks of air.  [This is called slow spool-up.
"Lag" is when it the rpms are so low that it can't produce any
boost at all.]

However, at 7000 rpms the engine is requiring twice as much
air to maintain 10 psi.  Both turbos should be able to do this,
but the stock 9B is spitting out hotter air because the tiny blades
are spinning really fast to produce this boost.  Meanwhile, the
20G is barely breaking a sweat as it spins comfortably and
pushes out nice cool air.

Attempting to raise boost further to say 20psi, you'll find that
the 9B simply won't supply the necessary air, while the 20G will
be easily getting the job done (at 7000rpms).

I hope this explanation helps.  I've left out lots of other details
which only make things more confusing.  And what I've said is
open to correction from others more knowledgeable than I.  :)

If you're curious what the 15G's look like compared to the
stock 9B's, let me know and I'll email you a picture.  At 15psi,
the 15G's are able to flow about 50% more air than the stock
9B's.  This is enough to hold about 18psi up to redline (with
plenty of boost available throughout the lower rpms).

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 10:03:19 PDT
From: "john Gunmann" <jgunmann@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Open Track

Y'all,
This weekend Nelson Ledges is having an open track event.  It is located
near Cleveland OH, the directions to get there are;

from the turnpike, get off at exit 14 in Ohio, at that exit are the
closest motels to the track. I'll be staying at the Gateway Motel (330)
898-2260.  Take SR 5 west to SR 534, turn right go apx 6 miles to SR 422,
turn left go 1/4 mile to SR 305, turn left on SR305 track is two miles on
left. These directions are on the track map on the web site www.fastone.com

I will be there Fri., Sat. & Sun., weather pemitting.  Mark Liberty is also
planning on attending Sun., and has proposed hooking up Sat. night for some
fun & festivities.
Hope to see you there!
John
93rttt

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 13:17:22 -0500
From: Jim Wiseman <jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo cool-down time

I am wondering what the rest of you Turbo guys do in regard to letting the
engine run a minute or so to cool the turbos before shutting it down?
Obviously, I don't have a turbo-timer (or I wouldn't be asking this
question).

Specifically, what I'm wondering about is this: I drive from home to work on
an open freeway. At both ends, I get off the freeway within about 3/4 mile
from my destination. From there I take it slow on a couple of city streets.
In my opinion, that minute or more that I'm driving slowly should suffice
for the cool-down time of the turbos that the factory suggests.

I understand the factory's recommendation for this. I just spent $2100
having both turbos replaced because the oil feed lines had became completely
occluded with coked up oil from the  previous owner's neglect in just
shutting the engine off and not cooling the turbos.

I'd like to hear other opinions on this.

Thanks,
Jim


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 14:40:14 -0400
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo cool-down time

I have the same situation as you.  The last 1/2 mile of my drive is
street driving.  I usually drive at 40MPH in 4th gear, but I also let
the car cool for at least a minute in the garage as I walk down the
drivway to get the mail.  If I'm driving it hard, I'll give it about
3 minutes of extra cool down time.
I also warm the car up in the morning for about 1 minute, even though
it's in a heated garage.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, Magnecors, Redline Fluids

Jim Wiseman wrote:
>
> I am wondering what the rest of you Turbo guys do in regard to letting the
> engine run a minute or so to cool the turbos before shutting it down?
> Obviously, I don't have a turbo-timer (or I wouldn't be asking this
> question).
>
> Specifically, what I'm wondering about is this: I drive from home to work on
> an open freeway. At both ends, I get off the freeway within about 3/4 mile
> from my destination. From there I take it slow on a couple of city streets.
> In my opinion, that minute or more that I'm driving slowly should suffice
> for the cool-down time of the turbos that the factory suggests.
>
> I understand the factory's recommendation for this. I just spent $2100
> having both turbos replaced because the oil feed lines had became completely
> occluded with coked up oil from the  previous owner's neglect in just
> shutting the engine off and not cooling the turbos.
>
> I'd like to hear other opinions on this.
>
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 12:38:08 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Tapping - spark plug question

I posted a couple weeks ago about a severe engine tapping noise that sounded
metallic and was possibly caused by low oil level.  Well, I finally took my
rear spark plugs out and the two plugs on the ends were fine, but the plug
from the middle cylinder had lots of dark sludge type deposits on it.  So of
the deposits were hard, but some were still wet.  What could this mean?

Thanks,
Chris
1992 R/T TT (150k miles)


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 18:23:49 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo cool-down time

Jim,
I think you're doing the right thing. I personally don't buy into the turbo
timer stuff. I think having a turbo timer basically tells you it's alright
to run hammer down all the way to you're parking space, then let the car
idle in the hot sun, allowing the engine to get even hotter. I would much
rather save the $100 (or whatever they cost these days) and cool the entire
car......engine, turbos, and all other components that get abused while
driving hard......while fresh air passes through the radiator, and around
the chassis.

Wayne


At 01:17 PM 04/20/2000 , Jim Wiseman wrote:

>I am wondering what the rest of you Turbo guys do in regard to letting the
>engine run a minute or so to cool the turbos before shutting it down?
>Obviously, I don't have a turbo-timer (or I wouldn't be asking this
>question).
>
>Specifically, what I'm wondering about is this: I drive from home to work on
>an open freeway. At both ends, I get off the freeway within about 3/4 mile
>from my destination. From there I take it slow on a couple of city streets.
>In my opinion, that minute or more that I'm driving slowly should suffice
>for the cool-down time of the turbos that the factory suggests.
>
>
>I'd like to hear other opinions on this.
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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