team3s             Monday, April 17 2000             Volume 01 : Number 110




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 15:05:22 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors

> I'm looking into creating some custom electronics - to monitor
> tps, boost, g forces, tach, etc. and feed them into a processor.
> Does anyone have any tips on where to 'tap in' to such signals?
> I'm considering things such as signal noise, convenience of
> locating my electronics (near the dash), and trying to minimize
> any destruction of wiring.

The best source for most of this information is from the diagnostics
port.  There is already a product out there called the "Datalogger"
that gathers information from this port.  I have tried in the past
to get information on the protocols, etc used so that I can feed
them into a Linux (MP3) server I have running in the car, without
much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the information and the
creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to share the
information.

I was looking at doing some odd things like increase the volume to
the stereo as the speed of the car increased (I tend to drive with
the window down) along with a mute feature when the Radar detector
found anything, etc.  Another, more important, feature would be the
ability to give an early (audible) warning when the engine/trans
temperature starts to rise  :)

Would be interested in any information that you are able to find.

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4

PS: Datalogger URL: http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 23:45:54 -0400
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors

There are products that you can purchase that will let you see actual data
that is passing through a serial port.  We use them quite extensively in
watching printer communications, and you could probably set one of these
devices up and see how the data is passed from the diag. port to the serial
port.  I imagine that there is some sort of packet structure that will
identify what is coming from where.  That would be the task to solve.

Maybe I'll bring one home and set it up before my datalogger and see what I
can learn ;).

Mark
'93 R/T TT

At 03:05 PM 4/17/00 +1200, Kevin Clark wrote:
>> I'm looking into creating some custom electronics - to monitor
>> tps, boost, g forces, tach, etc. and feed them into a processor.
>> Does anyone have any tips on where to 'tap in' to such signals?
>> I'm considering things such as signal noise, convenience of
>> locating my electronics (near the dash), and trying to minimize
>> any destruction of wiring.
>
>The best source for most of this information is from the diagnostics
>port.  There is already a product out there called the "Datalogger"
>that gathers information from this port.  I have tried in the past
>to get information on the protocols, etc used so that I can feed
>them into a Linux (MP3) server I have running in the car, without
>much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the information and the
>creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to share the
>information.


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:18:58 EDT
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-

Now I hope someone can tell me what I broke by doing it! :)

Just to summarize from a previous post:

I replaced the sway bar end bushings a few weeks back.  Now, when I make a
sharp turn (either direction) there is a loud clunk/metallic pop noise, and
the car pulls hard in that direction.

I followed the service manual directions when I was working on the sway bar,
so I thought that I did everything correctly.
Then it occured to me about something I did, which might have caused my
problem.

Since the bushings are easier to install/remove when the wheel is fully
turned in one direction, I pushed/pulled on the rotor/spindle assemlby to
move the wheel, instead of getting in the car and turning it via the
steering wheel.
Though I did not notice any noises, I think that doing this might have
caused my problem.

Here's my question:  By moving the wheel manually, what damage could I have
done to cause this steering problem?

Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!

Regards,
   Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:30:47 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-

You shouldn't have damaged anything by doing this. I assume you had the
ignition switch on to unlock the steering wheel or you wouldn't have been
able to turn the wheels.

Dan

<<Here's my question:  By moving the wheel manually, what damage could I
have
<<done to cause this steering problem?



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 08:28:31 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-

My guess is that the sway bar is misinstalled or misaligned and the tierods or
some other suspension piece is hanging up on the sway bar. Get the front end
up on jack stands and look for rub marks on the steering pieces and have
someone turn the wheel lock to lock and see if you can see the problem.

    Jim Berry
=====================================================

> Now I hope someone can tell me what I broke by doing it! :)
>
> Just to summarize from a previous post:
>
> I replaced the sway bar end bushings a few weeks back.  Now, when I make a
> sharp turn (either direction) there is a loud clunk/metallic pop noise, and
> the car pulls hard in that direction.
>
> I followed the service manual directions when I was working on the sway bar,
> so I thought that I did everything correctly.
> Then it occured to me about something I did, which might have caused my
> problem.
>
> Since the bushings are easier to install/remove when the wheel is fully
> turned in one direction, I pushed/pulled on the rotor/spindle assemlby to
> move the wheel, instead of getting in the car and turning it via the
> steering wheel.
> Though I did not notice any noises, I think that doing this might have
> caused my problem.
>
> Here's my question:  By moving the wheel manually, what damage could I have
> done to cause this steering problem?
>
> Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!
>
> Regards,
>    Dennis
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:22:24 -0400
From: "Mark" <mark1mtg@netzero.net>
Subject: Team3S: re: Apexi AVC-R

Geoff, re: your Apexi AVC-R. I have experimented with mine quite a bit. The
secret is to make sure it has learned your engines characteristics in learn
mode. The scramble is only for a different setting for a specific time. For
example if your setting is @ 1.00 you can set the scramble for 1.1 for 8
sseconds, then it will go back to your default setting.
You must have a seperate switch for this.

I would recommend the following settings providing you have set up the
basics(car set & gear judge) turn learn mode off in 1st gear, on in all
others.
Boost @ 1.00 or 1.05
Duty cycle 62%
Start Duty @ + 50 in 1st, 0 in all other gears
F/B @7 in 1st  3 in all others
Do 4-5 runs in 2nd gear 2000rpm to red line,(3rd is a little tougher unless
you have a lot of road, same with 4th & 5th) until the **** in duty cycle
appear. The unit will not learn if the varience is more than + or - .03 so
the boost must be stable. Once it has learned it holds boost very steady.

After it has learned you can adjust the start duty in 2nd gear to +10 This
will give a slight spike initially and start the boost quicker also
adjusting F\B setting higher will start boost quicker.The start duty is
rather sensitive so you will have to watch your spikes. By fine tuning
these I am able to jump immediately to 1.05 and it holds there till about
5500rpm where the 9bs lose it and drops to about .83 @ red line.
I am on the digest so I only get these once a day, if you want an immediate
response, E-mail me directly.
Happy boosting!
Mark
.............................................................
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:44:38 -0700
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R

Anyone with solid experience on the newAVC-R?

Id like to open a discussion on here (if I can) on how to _really_ fine
tune this unit.

Thanks.






_____________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:33:23 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: re: Apexi AVC-R

Mark:

Youve already answered a lot..thanks!

Let me digest this some more..see what I come up with mentally.

Q:  Does 'Start duty +50' add 50 to the base value of the duty cycle just to get
boost UP quicker?  Thats how I understand that..thanks.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark [mailto:mark1mtg@netzero.net]
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 9:22 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: re: Apexi AVC-R


Geoff, re: your Apexi AVC-R. I have experimented with mine quite a bit. The
secret is to make sure it has learned your engines characteristics in learn
mode. The scramble is only for a different setting for a specific time. For
example if your setting is @ 1.00 you can set the scramble for 1.1 for 8
sseconds, then it will go back to your default setting.
You must have a seperate switch for this.

I would recommend the following settings providing you have set up the
basics(car set & gear judge) turn learn mode off in 1st gear, on in all
others.
Boost @ 1.00 or 1.05
Duty cycle 62%
Start Duty @ + 50 in 1st, 0 in all other gears
F/B @7 in 1st  3 in all others
Do 4-5 runs in 2nd gear 2000rpm to red line,(3rd is a little tougher unless
you have a lot of road, same with 4th & 5th) until the **** in duty cycle
appear. The unit will not learn if the varience is more than + or - .03 so
the boost must be stable. Once it has learned it holds boost very steady.

After it has learned you can adjust the start duty in 2nd gear to +10 This
will give a slight spike initially and start the boost quicker also
adjusting F\B setting higher will start boost quicker.The start duty is
rather sensitive so you will have to watch your spikes. By fine tuning
these I am able to jump immediately to 1.05 and it holds there till about
5500rpm where the 9bs lose it and drops to about .83 @ red line.
I am on the digest so I only get these once a day, if you want an immediate
response, E-mail me directly.
Happy boosting!
Mark
.............................................................
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:44:38 -0700
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R

Anyone with solid experience on the newAVC-R?

Id like to open a discussion on here (if I can) on how to _really_ fine
tune this unit.

Thanks.






_____________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:44:56 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to get the axle out.
The trannie came out with quite a bit of difficulty.  I can't imagine
what it will be like trying to put it back in the way it came out.  Is
it possible to bolt it to the engine and lower the two into the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with the project?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:47:16 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

If I had to do it all over again, thats what I'd do.  SHould be MUCH eaiser.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Crabtree [mailto:wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 10:45 AM
To: TEAM 3S
Subject: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!


Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to get the axle out.
The trannie came out with quite a bit of difficulty.  I can't imagine
what it will be like trying to put it back in the way it came out.  Is
it possible to bolt it to the engine and lower the two into the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with the project?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:50:42 EDT
From: DSMDealer1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

I wouldn't try to clear both the trans and the enigine into the chassis at
the same time.  The transmission is a pain in the butt the first time in and
out.  The 2nd time (Mitsu sent me the wrong trans. the 1st time...talk about
being happy) I tore it out by myself in about an hour and 15 minutes.  It
gets a lot easier once you know what you're looking for.  Just make sure that
you have someone helping you when you put it back in as it's easier to have
one person line the driver's side axle up as you're installing it.  Man...I
coulda had 4-5 DSM trannies out and back in in the time it took to swap the
new one in the 1st time :-(.

Josh
'91 Galant VR4 (11.91@116 during shakedown runs)
'92 3000GT VR4 (17,000 miles on it..showroom condition and for sale!!!!)
'90 Eclipse GSX

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:56:27 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

Curious..why not?

The insertion angle is a breeze compared to a RWD car, and theres just nothing
in the way of a simple 'drop, support, then level' of the whole assembly.

- -----Original Message-----
From: DSMDealer1@aol.com [mailto:DSMDealer1@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 10:51 AM
To: wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!


I wouldn't try to clear both the trans and the enigine into the chassis at
the same time.  The transmission is a pain in the butt the first time in and
out.  The 2nd time (Mitsu sent me the wrong trans. the 1st time...talk about
being happy) I tore it out by myself in about an hour and 15 minutes.  It
gets a lot easier once you know what you're looking for.  Just make sure that
you have someone helping you when you put it back in as it's easier to have
one person line the driver's side axle up as you're installing it.  Man...I
coulda had 4-5 DSM trannies out and back in in the time it took to swap the
new one in the 1st time :-(.

Josh
'91 Galant VR4 (11.91@116 during shakedown runs)
'92 3000GT VR4 (17,000 miles on it..showroom condition and for sale!!!!)
'90 Eclipse GSX

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:07:36 -0500
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

Putting them in at the same time is definitely easier. I don't meant to
brag (well, yes i do) but i have it down to less than one hour from the
time the assy leaves the floor,  to the time all four mounts are bolted in
(as a bonus, the hood never leaves the car!!!) O.K., done bragging.

Wayne


At 12:44 PM 04/17/2000 , Jeff Crabtree wrote:
>Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to get the axle out.
>The trannie came out with quite a bit of difficulty.  I can't imagine
>what it will be like trying to put it back in the way it came out.  Is
>it possible to bolt it to the engine and lower the two into the
>compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with the project?
>
>--
>-Jeff Crabtree
>     '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
>           2K Wrangler TJ Sport
>                St. Louis, MO
>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:58:49 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R

Yes -absolutely!!!  I have a 95 VR-4 with the plugs set to .038 and my boost
set to 1.05 kg/cm2.  It runs great and only overshoots occasionally in 4-5th
gear at like 4000-4500 rpm.  I don't think it spends enough time at higher
speeds to learn and I have to set the start duty a little lower in 4th and
5th gear to compensate.  It sometimes spikes to 1.2  kg/cm2, but my A-pillar
gauge shows it immediately drop below 1 kg/cm2, so I do not know how bad
that is!
With the downpipe in and no cats, my duty cycle was like 55 across the
board.  Witht the cats on and through the stock dp, it is set at 65.  My
feedback was at 6 across all gears.

Sam 95 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Carberry <acarberry@snet.net>
To: gemohler@tgn.net <gemohler@tgn.net>; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
<team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R


>I installed my AVC-R and have been very impressed with the out come.  I
>usually have it set to a numerical setting with Boost, RPM's, and Throttle
%
>on display.  I'm running it at .85 boost  A setting (normal driving) and
>1.00 on B setting (play time).  I've been told that I can go up to 1.05
with
>no side effects.  Anyone tell me it that's true?
>
>Andy
>93 VR4
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@tgn.net>
>To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2000 12:44 AM
>Subject: Team3S: APEXi AVC-R
>
>
>> Anyone with solid experience on the newAVC-R?
>>
>> Id like to open a discussion on here (if I can) on how to _really_ fine
>> tune this unit.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
>> 1995 Mitsu. VR4                      Plate: SPDTOY 2*     13.2@107
>> 2000 Celica GT-S                     Plate: SPDTOY 3*     14.9@96Mph
>> 1987 Supra Turbo                     Plate: SPDTOY 1*     13.38@104Mph
>> ---------------------------------------------------
>> K&N FIPK                             Spearco IC
>> APEXi N1 Exhaust*                    Custom Hardpipe Kit
>> Custom Aluminum-Alloy Driveshaft     RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body
>> Mueller Lightweight Driveshaft*      HKS Downpipe*
>> Custom Lightweight Main Pulley**     Full Redline Synthetic Oils & WW
>> AEM Cam Gear (Intake)*               Greddy Type-S BOV
>> Lightewight 16x8" Racing Wheels      HKS FCD
>> Greddy EGT Guage                     ST Swaybar Set
>> Eibach Pro Spring Set                Tokico-II TEMS Struts
>> APEXi (new) AVC-R                    Broward Dual-Friction Clutch*
>> Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated Rotors, crossdrilled
>> Porterfield R4-S Pads                Full DOT 5.1 Brake fluid
>> Goodridge SS Brake lines             Yes..all this on a stock HG
>> +++
>> *   On order
>> **  Being developed
>>
>>
>>
>> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:13:55 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors

Some of this info can be determined with a scope and a multi-meter with a
high input impedance probe to keep feedback from zapping the ECU.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: 'Ken Stanton' <ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Cc: Team3S Stealth <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Sunday, April 16, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors


>> I'm looking into creating some custom electronics - to monitor
>> tps, boost, g forces, tach, etc. and feed them into a processor.
>> Does anyone have any tips on where to 'tap in' to such signals?
>> I'm considering things such as signal noise, convenience of
>> locating my electronics (near the dash), and trying to minimize
>> any destruction of wiring.
>
>The best source for most of this information is from the diagnostics
>port.  There is already a product out there called the "Datalogger"
>that gathers information from this port.  I have tried in the past
>to get information on the protocols, etc used so that I can feed
>them into a Linux (MP3) server I have running in the car, without
>much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the information and the
>creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to share the
>information.
>
>I was looking at doing some odd things like increase the volume to
>the stereo as the speed of the car increased (I tend to drive with
>the window down) along with a mute feature when the Radar detector
>found anything, etc.  Another, more important, feature would be the
>ability to give an early (audible) warning when the engine/trans
>temperature starts to rise  :)
>
>Would be interested in any information that you are able to find.
>
>Cheers,
>Kevin Clark
>'91 GTO-VR4
>
>PS: Datalogger URL: http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:51:04 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Two bolts away

All right,

    Raise your hand if you cussed out the design engineers while trying
to remove the top bolt on the power steering pump?

I'm two bolts(the lower motor mounts) from having the motor out of the
car.  I'm probably going to go RENT a engine hoist tomorrow.  I was
thinking of BUYING an engine stand.  Is this necessary?  If not, how do
I go about working on the engine without hurting it?  IF SO, where/what
do I bolt the engine to the stand with?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 20:00:10 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Deciding on piston size for the TT

For the few of you that have rebuilt turbo engines, I've got a
question.  I've finished blue printing my cylinder bores (factory fresh
short block) and found them to be in pretty good shape but slightly
oversized.  Average bore measured in at 91.1164mm (that's 16.4 microns
oversized, perhaps they honed just a bit too much, typical hone will
remove 20microns).  I now need to order pistons and can order them in
what ever size I want, and that's where I'm undecided.

Service manual suggests: 30 to 50 microns (.0012"-.0020") gap, piston to
bore
Aftermarket piston manufacturers suggest:  102 to 127 microns (.004" -
.005") gap.

Ross for instance recommends an increase in gap as cylinder pressures
rise.  It is suggested that Nitros cars increase the gap by even more.
Only stock NA cars have a gap in the range listed in our service
manual.  I believe the OEMs hold a tight clearance to reduce the
likelihood of NVH issues (such as piston slap).  I'm favoring the larger
gap that Ross and others recommend.

Any comments, how much gap did your builds/rebuids receive and how has
it held up.  I realize this question is a long shot, but I thought I'd
try anyways.

Thanks,
Slo Joe
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/homepage.htm


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:29:38 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!

On my SL I put the whole thing together then dropped it back in. Not a lot
of clearance, but it can be done.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jeff Crabtree
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 10:45 AM
To: TEAM 3S
Subject: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!


Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to get the axle out.
The trannie came out with quite a bit of difficulty.  I can't imagine
what it will be like trying to put it back in the way it came out.  Is
it possible to bolt it to the engine and lower the two into the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with the project?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:29:40 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Two bolts away

Depends on how long you need the engine out. If only for a day, then just
hang it from the hoist. If longer than that, it's probably cheaper to buy a
stand. I had the same situation. Renting a hoist was $25 for two days and
buying a stand was $45 (on sale). Pretty easy choice.  Take off the tranny
and bolt through the stand into the tranny bolt holes. Will need to buy some
new long bolts for this.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Jeff Crabtree
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To: TEAM 3S
Subject: Team3S: Two bolts away


All right,

    Raise your hand if you cussed out the design engineers while trying
to remove the top bolt on the power steering pump?

I'm two bolts(the lower motor mounts) from having the motor out of the
car.  I'm probably going to go RENT a engine hoist tomorrow.  I was
thinking of BUYING an engine stand.  Is this necessary?  If not, how do
I go about working on the engine without hurting it?  IF SO, where/what
do I bolt the engine to the stand with?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI #499)
          2K Wrangler TJ Sport
               St. Louis, MO



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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:45:26 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: TuRbO Questions

Possible problems after my 15G install here, folks.

1) Has anyone ever started up their car without a catalytic
converter (or downpipe) bolted on?  If so, did you notice
a lot of rising steam from the turbo area, smell of burning
coolant and/or water-spray underneath the O2 housings?

2) I noticed this when I first started the car.  Bolting up my
exhaust system made most of it go away.  However, I
wonder if this is an excessive amount of water coming from
the O2 housings.

(I realize that water is a product of combustion, but this
seems like a lot...)

3) How much pressure is necessary to open the stock
wastegates?  I drove around with the wastegate lines
connected to the Y-pipe nipple, and I noticed that boost
would cut off at around 4-5 psi.

4) I really need to get an idea of how much lag I should be
experiencing with the 15G's.  Currently, it really seems like
there is too much lag and not much boost. . . .

I unplugged wategate lines (I'm on stock fuel system, but
I was watching boost VERY carefully with the intention of
keeping it below 10 psi and keeping revs below ~5000),
and while giving it 1/2-2/3 throttle, boost would seem to
refuse to climb above ~7psi at around from 3000-4000
rpms.  Even low rpm lag in general seems VERY noticeable
compared to the stockers.

More importantly, it seemed like holding it at a set amount
of decent throttle (say 50% throttle) would NOT be sufficient
to keep boost climbing.  In other words, boost would stop
drop off from around 0.3-0.5 bar even as revs climb past
4000 rpms.  This is much different that I'm used to with the
stock turbos w/ which you can just hold the gas steady and the
boost will keep climbing.  *I'm wondering if the 15G's require
opening the throttle quite a bit ~more~ to get higher boost. (?)

5) Does anyone know how these things might be related?
Lots of water out of the O2 housings makes it seem like
there's a coolant leak within the turbo bearing (somehow
allowing coolant into the turbine housing?)  BTW, my lines
are not leaking, but I did have to adjust the water jacket on
the front turbo.  And with a very big increase in lag and
seemingly very little boost output, one or both of the turbos
seem to be faulty.....

To support this possibility, I've noticed a loud hissing noise
coming from the rear turbo area, and I can't find any vacuum
hose which could be responsible.  These are TEC's, and I
installed them myself using the utmost extreme care ....

If you have ANY advice PLEASE HELP!

Not happy :(

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle


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Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 23:10:41 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Buying Porsche pads

I recently installed a set of front calipers from a Porsche 933 C2 turbo on
my Mitsubishi. They came with Pagid Black pads, which may or may not be
race pads. (The "Blacks" are a new model, so how well they work on track
remains to be seen. They emit vast clouds of black brake dust, that's for
sure).

I'd like to get a set of stock Porsche pads to use on the street, but we
don't have a Porsche dealer in the area. Where else can one purchase
Porsche pads? And does anyone have a recommendation on which brand of
non-Porsche pads work OK on the street?

Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #110
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