team3s
Monday, April 17
2000
Volume 01 : Number
110
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 15:05:22 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors
> I'm looking into creating some
custom electronics - to monitor
> tps, boost, g forces, tach, etc. and
feed them into a processor.
> Does anyone have any tips on where to 'tap
in' to such signals?
> I'm considering things such as signal noise,
convenience of
> locating my electronics (near the dash), and trying to
minimize
> any destruction of wiring.
The best source for most of
this information is from the diagnostics
port. There is already a
product out there called the "Datalogger"
that gathers information
from this port. I have tried in the past
to get information on the
protocols, etc used so that I can feed
them into a Linux (MP3) server I have
running in the car, without
much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the
information and the
creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to
share the
information.
I was looking at doing some odd things like
increase the volume to
the stereo as the speed of the car increased (I tend
to drive with
the window down) along with a mute feature when the Radar
detector
found anything, etc. Another, more important, feature would be
the
ability to give an early (audible) warning when the
engine/trans
temperature starts to rise :)
Would be interested
in any information that you are able to find.
Cheers,
Kevin
Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
PS: Datalogger URL:
http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 16 Apr 2000 23:45:54 -0400
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tapping into ECM/Sensors
There are products that you can purchase that
will let you see actual data
that is passing through a serial port. We
use them quite extensively in
watching printer communications, and you could
probably set one of these
devices up and see how the data is passed from the
diag. port to the serial
port. I imagine that there is some sort of
packet structure that will
identify what is coming from where. That
would be the task to solve.
Maybe I'll bring one home and set it up
before my datalogger and see what I
can learn ;).
Mark
'93 R/T
TT
At 03:05 PM 4/17/00 +1200, Kevin Clark wrote:
>> I'm looking
into creating some custom electronics - to monitor
>> tps, boost, g
forces, tach, etc. and feed them into a processor.
>> Does anyone have
any tips on where to 'tap in' to such signals?
>> I'm considering
things such as signal noise, convenience of
>> locating my electronics
(near the dash), and trying to minimize
>> any destruction of
wiring.
>
>The best source for most of this information is from the
diagnostics
>port. There is already a product out there called the
"Datalogger"
>that gathers information from this port. I
have tried in the past
>to get information on the protocols, etc used so
that I can feed
>them into a Linux (MP3) server I have running in the car,
without
>much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the information and
the
>creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to share
the
>information.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:18:58 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-
Now I hope someone
can tell me what I broke by doing it! :)
Just to summarize from a
previous post:
I replaced the sway bar end bushings a few weeks
back. Now, when I make a
sharp turn (either direction) there is a loud
clunk/metallic pop noise, and
the car pulls hard in that direction.
I
followed the service manual directions when I was working on the sway bar,
so I thought that I did everything correctly.
Then it occured to me about
something I did, which might have caused my
problem.
Since the
bushings are easier to install/remove when the wheel is fully
turned in one
direction, I pushed/pulled on the rotor/spindle assemlby to
move the wheel,
instead of getting in the car and turning it via the
steering
wheel.
Though I did not notice any noises, I think that doing this might have
caused my problem.
Here's my question: By moving the wheel
manually, what damage could I have
done to cause this steering
problem?
Any help you can give will be greatly
appreciated!
Regards,
Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:30:47 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-
You shouldn't have damaged
anything by doing this. I assume you had the
ignition switch on to unlock the
steering wheel or you wouldn't have been
able to turn the
wheels.
Dan
<<Here's my question: By moving the wheel
manually, what damage could I
have
<<done to cause this steering
problem?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 08:28:31 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Steering Problem -I think I know what I did-
My guess is that the sway
bar is misinstalled or misaligned and the tierods or
some other suspension
piece is hanging up on the sway bar. Get the front end
up on jack stands and
look for rub marks on the steering pieces and have
someone turn the wheel
lock to lock and see if you can see the problem.
Jim
Berry
=====================================================
> Now I
hope someone can tell me what I broke by doing it! :)
>
> Just to
summarize from a previous post:
>
> I replaced the sway bar end
bushings a few weeks back. Now, when I make a
> sharp turn (either
direction) there is a loud clunk/metallic pop noise, and
> the car pulls
hard in that direction.
>
> I followed the service manual
directions when I was working on the sway bar,
> so I thought that I did
everything correctly.
> Then it occured to me about something I did, which
might have caused my
> problem.
>
> Since the bushings are
easier to install/remove when the wheel is fully
> turned in one
direction, I pushed/pulled on the rotor/spindle assemlby to
> move the
wheel, instead of getting in the car and turning it via the
> steering
wheel.
> Though I did not notice any noises, I think that doing this might
have
> caused my problem.
>
> Here's my question: By
moving the wheel manually, what damage could I have
> done to cause this
steering problem?
>
> Any help you can give will be greatly
appreciated!
>
> Regards,
> Dennis
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:22:24 -0400
From: "Mark" <
mark1mtg@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: re: Apexi AVC-R
Geoff, re: your Apexi AVC-R. I have experimented
with mine quite a bit. The
secret is to make sure it has learned your engines
characteristics in learn
mode. The scramble is only for a different setting
for a specific time. For
example if your setting is @ 1.00 you can set the
scramble for 1.1 for 8
sseconds, then it will go back to your default
setting.
You must have a seperate switch for this.
I would recommend
the following settings providing you have set up the
basics(car set &
gear judge) turn learn mode off in 1st gear, on in all
others.
Boost @
1.00 or 1.05
Duty cycle 62%
Start Duty @ + 50 in 1st, 0 in all other
gears
F/B @7 in 1st 3 in all others
Do 4-5 runs in 2nd gear 2000rpm
to red line,(3rd is a little tougher unless
you have a lot of road, same with
4th & 5th) until the **** in duty cycle
appear. The unit will not learn
if the varience is more than + or - .03 so
the boost must be stable. Once it
has learned it holds boost very steady.
After it has learned you can
adjust the start duty in 2nd gear to +10 This
will give a slight spike
initially and start the boost quicker also
adjusting F\B setting higher will
start boost quicker.The start duty is
rather sensitive so you will have to
watch your spikes. By fine tuning
these I am able to jump immediately to 1.05
and it holds there till about
5500rpm where the 9bs lose it and drops to
about .83 @ red line.
I am on the digest so I only get these once a day, if
you want an immediate
response, E-mail me directly.
Happy
boosting!
Mark
.............................................................
Date:
Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:44:38 -0700
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S:
APEXi AVC-R
Anyone with solid experience on the newAVC-R?
Id like
to open a discussion on here (if I can) on how to _really_ fine
tune this
unit.
Thanks.
_____________________________________________
NetZero
- Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and
Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:33:23 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: Apexi AVC-R
Mark:
Youve already answered a
lot..thanks!
Let me digest this some more..see what I come up with
mentally.
Q: Does 'Start duty +50' add 50 to the base value of the
duty cycle just to get
boost UP quicker? Thats how I understand
that..thanks.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark [
mailto:mark1mtg@netzero.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 17, 2000 9:22 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: re: Apexi
AVC-R
Geoff, re: your Apexi AVC-R. I have experimented with mine
quite a bit. The
secret is to make sure it has learned your engines
characteristics in learn
mode. The scramble is only for a different setting
for a specific time. For
example if your setting is @ 1.00 you can set the
scramble for 1.1 for 8
sseconds, then it will go back to your default
setting.
You must have a seperate switch for this.
I would recommend
the following settings providing you have set up the
basics(car set &
gear judge) turn learn mode off in 1st gear, on in all
others.
Boost @
1.00 or 1.05
Duty cycle 62%
Start Duty @ + 50 in 1st, 0 in all other
gears
F/B @7 in 1st 3 in all others
Do 4-5 runs in 2nd gear 2000rpm
to red line,(3rd is a little tougher unless
you have a lot of road, same with
4th & 5th) until the **** in duty cycle
appear. The unit will not learn
if the varience is more than + or - .03 so
the boost must be stable. Once it
has learned it holds boost very steady.
After it has learned you can
adjust the start duty in 2nd gear to +10 This
will give a slight spike
initially and start the boost quicker also
adjusting F\B setting higher will
start boost quicker.The start duty is
rather sensitive so you will have to
watch your spikes. By fine tuning
these I am able to jump immediately to 1.05
and it holds there till about
5500rpm where the 9bs lose it and drops to
about .83 @ red line.
I am on the digest so I only get these once a day, if
you want an immediate
response, E-mail me directly.
Happy
boosting!
Mark
.............................................................
Date:
Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:44:38 -0700
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Team3S:
APEXi AVC-R
Anyone with solid experience on the newAVC-R?
Id like
to open a discussion on here (if I can) on how to _really_ fine
tune this
unit.
Thanks.
_____________________________________________
NetZero
- Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and
Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:44:56 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
Thanks to everyone that helped me figure
out how to get the axle out.
The trannie came out with quite a bit of
difficulty. I can't imagine
what it will be like trying to put it back
in the way it came out. Is
it possible to bolt it to the engine and
lower the two into the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with
the project?
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T TT(3/SI #499)
2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:47:16 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
If I had to do it all over again,
thats what I'd do. SHould be MUCH eaiser.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jeff Crabtree [
mailto:wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com]
Sent:
Monday, April 17, 2000 10:45 AM
To: TEAM 3S
Subject: Team3S: Axle and
X-mission out!
Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to
get the axle out.
The trannie came out with quite a bit of difficulty.
I can't imagine
what it will be like trying to put it back in the way it came
out. Is
it possible to bolt it to the engine and lower the two into
the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm done with the project?
-
--
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:50:42 EDT
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Axle and X-mission out!
I wouldn't try to clear both the trans and the
enigine into the chassis at
the same time. The transmission is a pain
in the butt the first time in and
out. The 2nd time (Mitsu sent me the
wrong trans. the 1st time...talk about
being happy) I tore it out by myself
in about an hour and 15 minutes. It
gets a lot easier once you know
what you're looking for. Just make sure that
you have someone helping
you when you put it back in as it's easier to have
one person line the
driver's side axle up as you're installing it. Man...I
coulda had 4-5
DSM trannies out and back in in the time it took to swap the
new one in the
1st time :-(.
Josh
'91 Galant VR4 (11.91@116 during shakedown
runs)
'92 3000GT VR4 (17,000 miles on it..showroom condition and for
sale!!!!)
'90 Eclipse GSX
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:56:27 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
Curious..why not?
The
insertion angle is a breeze compared to a RWD car, and theres just nothing
in
the way of a simple 'drop, support, then level' of the whole assembly.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.com [
mailto:DSMDealer1@aol.com]
Sent: Monday,
April 17, 2000 10:51 AM
To:
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
I wouldn't try to clear both the
trans and the enigine into the chassis at
the same time. The
transmission is a pain in the butt the first time in and
out. The 2nd
time (Mitsu sent me the wrong trans. the 1st time...talk about
being happy)
I tore it out by myself in about an hour and 15 minutes. It
gets a lot
easier once you know what you're looking for. Just make sure that
you
have someone helping you when you put it back in as it's easier to have
one
person line the driver's side axle up as you're installing it. Man...I
coulda had 4-5 DSM trannies out and back in in the time it took to swap the
new one in the 1st time :-(.
Josh
'91 Galant VR4 (11.91@116 during
shakedown runs)
'92 3000GT VR4 (17,000 miles on it..showroom condition and
for sale!!!!)
'90 Eclipse GSX
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:07:36 -0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
Putting them in at the same time is
definitely easier. I don't meant to
brag (well, yes i do) but i have it down
to less than one hour from the
time the assy leaves the floor, to the
time all four mounts are bolted in
(as a bonus, the hood never leaves the
car!!!) O.K., done bragging.
Wayne
At 12:44 PM 04/17/2000 ,
Jeff Crabtree wrote:
>Thanks to everyone that helped me figure out how to
get the axle out.
>The trannie came out with quite a bit of
difficulty. I can't imagine
>what it will be like trying to put it
back in the way it came out. Is
>it possible to bolt it to the
engine and lower the two into the
>compartment with an engine hoist once
I'm done with the project?
>
>--
>-Jeff
Crabtree
> '91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
> 2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:58:49 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: APEXi AVC-R
Yes -absolutely!!! I have a 95 VR-4 with the
plugs set to .038 and my boost
set to 1.05 kg/cm2. It runs great and
only overshoots occasionally in 4-5th
gear at like 4000-4500 rpm. I
don't think it spends enough time at higher
speeds to learn and I have to set
the start duty a little lower in 4th and
5th gear to compensate. It
sometimes spikes to 1.2 kg/cm2, but my A-pillar
gauge shows it
immediately drop below 1 kg/cm2, so I do not know how bad
that is!
With
the downpipe in and no cats, my duty cycle was like 55 across
the
board. Witht the cats on and through the stock dp, it is set at
65. My
feedback was at 6 across all gears.
Sam 95 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andy Carberry <
acarberry@snet.net>
To:
gemohler@tgn.net <
gemohler@tgn.net>;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, April 16, 2000 5:19 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: APEXi
AVC-R
>I installed my AVC-R and have been very impressed with the
out come. I
>usually have it set to a numerical setting with Boost,
RPM's, and Throttle
%
>on display. I'm running it at .85
boost A setting (normal driving) and
>1.00 on B setting (play
time). I've been told that I can go up to 1.05
with
>no side
effects. Anyone tell me it that's true?
>
>Andy
>93
VR4
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Geoff
Mohler" <
gemohler@tgn.net>
>To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Sunday, April 16, 2000 12:44 AM
>Subject: Team3S: APEXi
AVC-R
>
>
>> Anyone with solid experience on the
newAVC-R?
>>
>> Id like to open a discussion on here (if I
can) on how to _really_ fine
>> tune this unit.
>>
>>
Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
>> 1995 Mitsu.
VR4
Plate: SPDTOY 2* 13.2@107
>> 2000 Celica
GT-S
Plate: SPDTOY 3* 14.9@96Mph
>> 1987 Supra
Turbo
Plate: SPDTOY 1* 13.38@104Mph
>>
---------------------------------------------------
>> K&N
FIPK
Spearco IC
>> APEXi N1
Exhaust*
Custom Hardpipe Kit
>> Custom Aluminum-Alloy
Driveshaft RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body
>>
Mueller Lightweight Driveshaft* HKS
Downpipe*
>> Custom Lightweight Main Pulley**
Full Redline Synthetic Oils & WW
>> AEM Cam Gear
(Intake)*
Greddy Type-S BOV
>> Lightewight 16x8" Racing
Wheels HKS FCD
>> Greddy EGT
Guage
ST Swaybar Set
>> Eibach Pro Spring
Set
Tokico-II TEMS Struts
>> APEXi (new)
AVC-R
Broward Dual-Friction Clutch*
>> Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated Rotors,
crossdrilled
>> Porterfield R4-S
Pads
Full DOT 5.1 Brake fluid
>> Goodridge SS Brake
lines
Yes..all this on a stock HG
>> +++
>> * On
order
>> ** Being
developed
>>
>>
>>
>> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>>
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:13:55 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tapping into ECM/Sensors
Some of this info can be determined with
a scope and a multi-meter with a
high input impedance probe to keep feedback
from zapping the ECU.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Clark
<
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To:
'Ken Stanton' <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Cc: Team3S
Stealth <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Sunday, April 16, 2000 8:08 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tapping into
ECM/Sensors
>> I'm looking into creating some custom
electronics - to monitor
>> tps, boost, g forces, tach, etc. and feed
them into a processor.
>> Does anyone have any tips on where to 'tap
in' to such signals?
>> I'm considering things such as signal noise,
convenience of
>> locating my electronics (near the dash), and trying
to minimize
>> any destruction of wiring.
>
>The best
source for most of this information is from the diagnostics
>port.
There is already a product out there called the
"Datalogger"
>that gathers information from this port. I
have tried in the past
>to get information on the protocols, etc used so
that I can feed
>them into a Linux (MP3) server I have running in the car,
without
>much luck - Mitsubishi do not see to know the information and
the
>creator of the Datalogger (Todd@TMO) is not willing to share
the
>information.
>
>I was looking at doing some odd things
like increase the volume to
>the stereo as the speed of the car increased
(I tend to drive with
>the window down) along with a mute feature when the
Radar detector
>found anything, etc. Another, more important,
feature would be the
>ability to give an early (audible) warning when the
engine/trans
>temperature starts to rise :)
>
>Would be
interested in any information that you are able to
find.
>
>Cheers,
>Kevin Clark
>'91
GTO-VR4
>
>PS: Datalogger URL:
http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:51:04 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Two bolts away
All right,
Raise your
hand if you cussed out the design engineers while trying
to remove the top
bolt on the power steering pump?
I'm two bolts(the lower motor mounts)
from having the motor out of the
car. I'm probably going to go RENT a
engine hoist tomorrow. I was
thinking of BUYING an engine stand.
Is this necessary? If not, how do
I go about working on the engine
without hurting it? IF SO, where/what
do I bolt the engine to the stand
with?
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
TT(3/SI #499)
2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 20:00:10 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Deciding on piston size for the TT
For the few of you that have
rebuilt turbo engines, I've got a
question. I've finished blue printing
my cylinder bores (factory fresh
short block) and found them to be in pretty
good shape but slightly
oversized. Average bore measured in at
91.1164mm (that's 16.4 microns
oversized, perhaps they honed just a bit too
much, typical hone will
remove 20microns). I now need to order pistons
and can order them in
what ever size I want, and that's where I'm
undecided.
Service manual suggests: 30 to 50 microns
(.0012"-.0020") gap, piston to
bore
Aftermarket piston
manufacturers suggest: 102 to 127 microns (.004" -
.005")
gap.
Ross for instance recommends an increase in gap as cylinder
pressures
rise. It is suggested that Nitros cars increase the gap by
even more.
Only stock NA cars have a gap in the range listed in our
service
manual. I believe the OEMs hold a tight clearance to reduce
the
likelihood of NVH issues (such as piston slap). I'm favoring the
larger
gap that Ross and others recommend.
Any comments, how much gap
did your builds/rebuids receive and how has
it held up. I realize this
question is a long shot, but I thought I'd
try anyways.
Thanks,
Slo
Joe
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/homepage.htm***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:29:38 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
On my SL I put the whole thing together
then dropped it back in. Not a lot
of clearance, but it can be done.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Crabtree
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 10:45 AM
To: TEAM
3S
Subject: Team3S: Axle and X-mission out!
Thanks to everyone
that helped me figure out how to get the axle out.
The trannie came out with
quite a bit of difficulty. I can't imagine
what it will be like trying
to put it back in the way it came out. Is
it possible to bolt it to the
engine and lower the two into the
compartment with an engine hoist once I'm
done with the project?
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91
Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:29:40 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Two bolts away
Depends on how long you need the engine out. If
only for a day, then just
hang it from the hoist. If longer than that, it's
probably cheaper to buy a
stand. I had the same situation. Renting a hoist
was $25 for two days and
buying a stand was $45 (on sale). Pretty easy
choice. Take off the tranny
and bolt through the stand into the tranny
bolt holes. Will need to buy some
new long bolts for this.
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeff Crabtree
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 3:51 PM
To: TEAM
3S
Subject: Team3S: Two bolts away
All
right,
Raise your hand if you cussed out the design
engineers while trying
to remove the top bolt on the power steering
pump?
I'm two bolts(the lower motor mounts) from having the motor out of
the
car. I'm probably going to go RENT a engine hoist tomorrow. I
was
thinking of BUYING an engine stand. Is this necessary? If
not, how do
I go about working on the engine without hurting it? IF SO,
where/what
do I bolt the engine to the stand with?
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:45:26 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: TuRbO Questions
Possible problems after my 15G install here,
folks.
1) Has anyone ever started up their car without a
catalytic
converter (or downpipe) bolted on? If so, did you notice
a
lot of rising steam from the turbo area, smell of burning
coolant and/or
water-spray underneath the O2 housings?
2) I noticed this when I first
started the car. Bolting up my
exhaust system made most of it go
away. However, I
wonder if this is an excessive amount of water coming
from
the O2 housings.
(I realize that water is a product of
combustion, but this
seems like a lot...)
3) How much pressure is
necessary to open the stock
wastegates? I drove around with the
wastegate lines
connected to the Y-pipe nipple, and I noticed that
boost
would cut off at around 4-5 psi.
4) I really need to get an idea
of how much lag I should be
experiencing with the 15G's. Currently, it
really seems like
there is too much lag and not much boost. . . .
I
unplugged wategate lines (I'm on stock fuel system, but
I was watching boost
VERY carefully with the intention of
keeping it below 10 psi and keeping revs
below ~5000),
and while giving it 1/2-2/3 throttle, boost would seem
to
refuse to climb above ~7psi at around from 3000-4000
rpms. Even
low rpm lag in general seems VERY noticeable
compared to the
stockers.
More importantly, it seemed like holding it at a set
amount
of decent throttle (say 50% throttle) would NOT be sufficient
to
keep boost climbing. In other words, boost would stop
drop off from
around 0.3-0.5 bar even as revs climb past
4000 rpms. This is much
different that I'm used to with the
stock turbos w/ which you can just hold
the gas steady and the
boost will keep climbing. *I'm wondering if the
15G's require
opening the throttle quite a bit ~more~ to get higher boost.
(?)
5) Does anyone know how these things might be related?
Lots of
water out of the O2 housings makes it seem like
there's a coolant leak within
the turbo bearing (somehow
allowing coolant into the turbine housing?)
BTW, my lines
are not leaking, but I did have to adjust the water jacket
on
the front turbo. And with a very big increase in lag
and
seemingly very little boost output, one or both of the turbos
seem to
be faulty.....
To support this possibility, I've noticed a loud hissing
noise
coming from the rear turbo area, and I can't find any vacuum
hose
which could be responsible. These are TEC's, and I
installed them
myself using the utmost extreme care ....
If you have ANY advice PLEASE
HELP!
Not happy :(
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 17 Apr 2000 23:10:41 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Buying Porsche pads
I recently installed a set of front calipers
from a Porsche 933 C2 turbo on
my Mitsubishi. They came with Pagid Black
pads, which may or may not be
race pads. (The "Blacks" are a new
model, so how well they work on track
remains to be seen. They emit vast
clouds of black brake dust, that's for
sure).
I'd like to get a set of
stock Porsche pads to use on the street, but we
don't have a Porsche dealer
in the area. Where else can one purchase
Porsche pads? And does anyone have a
recommendation on which brand of
non-Porsche pads work OK on the
street?
Rich/94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #110
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