team3s
Thursday, April 13
2000 Volume 01
: Number
107
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 09:05:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: speedo problem
Hi Alex,
> I have a 1992 vr4. i just
got two problems in a week with my car. my ecs
> system blinks tour and
sport at the same time. i have no idea what this
> means. also my
odometer/spedo stopped working could it be a fuse or is it
> something a
dealer would have to fix. any reply would be greatly appreciated
The VR4
speedo is electrical. There is a gear housing on the transmission
with
an electrical connector. One thing to check is that the cable is
still
connected properly. To get to it, you have to remove the battery,
tray, and
windshield washer resevoir. The gear housing is between the
engine block and
the firewall.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you're
not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 09:35:57 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS Turbo Carbon Clutch - Anyone like it?
- -----Original
Message-----From: Oskar <
swede@pclink.com>
>Yikes - a few
days ago I asked for some positive experiences with
the RPS
>Turbo
Carbon clutch and I received no replies. This scares me
because
it
>makes me wonder if this means that no one is happy with RPS
Turbo
Carbon
>clutch? Maybe so... Then I'm in a good
position since I have not
yet
>installed mine. On the other hand,
if someone is happy with theirs
I'd like
>to hear. I think we
need to share positive comments about products
as well
>as negative
ones on this list.
Good point. While we're on the subject,
here's some feedback on the
RPS "Carbon Claw" clutch that some of
us NT owners installed. There
was never a report of a problem with this
clutch, AFAIK, but it's
probably a good idea to get an opinion or two in the
files...
I've never had a problem with mine. MOF, I like it a lot
more than
the stock clutch. (And bear in mind that the stock clutch
is
excellent.) The Carbon Claw grips more positively and more
quickly
than stock, but you can still slip it... almost as much as
you
want. But it has that definite grip that "reminds you" of
its
racing clutch origins. A full "thumbs-up" on the RPS
Carbon Claw
from this Stealth NT owner.
That said, I'm curious as to
any changes made to the Carbon Claw
series since then. Mine was
installed about a year ago, when
development was still in the experimental
phase. I sure hope they
didn't change it much, since the version I got
was exactly what I
wanted. Maybe Rob from RPS will give us an update
one of these
days... On both the Turbo Carbon and the Carbon
Claw...
Best,
Forrest
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 12:52:03 -0400
From: Danno <
palermod@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: speedo problem
Alex,
Thought I'd also share my
experience with a malfunctioning speedo, on the off
chance that it might
help.
Mine became intermittent, with the needle occasionally bouncing
from 0 to whatever,
as the connection was made and then broken. After 3
trips to the dealer and a new
speedo, (they indeed checked the connection
discussed by Ken, below) the mechanic
discovered that the wire's insulation
had been stripped away, allowing an
intermittent short to develop.
He
described the short as occuring due to the wire being pinched somewhere
along
where it passes under the center console up into the dash. I
can't, unfortunately,
be more specific than that, but if this sounds like the
kind of problem you're
experiencing, you could have your dealer call the Mits
dealer here in Kalamazoo to
inquire - Call Harold Zeigler Mitsubishi at
616-375-5555. Could save you a lot of
time, frustration and
money. I was fortunate in that my car was under warranty at
the time,
so they paid for the speedo, which, as it turned out, had nothing to do
with
the problem.
Good luck.
- - Dan
'95 Black
VR4
>
> > I have a 1992 vr4. i just got two problems in a
week with my car. my ecs
> > system blinks tour and sport at the same
time. i have no idea what this
> > means. also my odometer/spedo
stopped working could it be a fuse or is it
> > something a dealer
would have to fix. any reply would be greatly appreciated
Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> Hi Alex,
>
> > I have a 1992 vr4. i just got
two problems in a week with my car. my ecs
> > system blinks tour and
sport at the same time. i have no idea what this
> > means. also my
odometer/spedo stopped working could it be a fuse or is it
> >
something a dealer would have to fix. any reply would be greatly
appreciated
>
> The VR4 speedo is electrical. There is a gear
housing on the transmission with
> an electrical connector. One
thing to check is that the cable is still
> connected properly. To
get to it, you have to remove the battery, tray, and
> windshield washer
resevoir. The gear housing is between the engine block and
> the
firewall.
>
> Good luck,
> Ken
> --
> If you're
not the lead car, your view never changes!
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 10:03:36 -0700
From: Steve Saeedi <
saeedi@mac.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
speedo problem
At 9:05 AM -0700 4/12/00, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>Hi
Alex,
>
> > I have a 1992 vr4. i just got two problems in a week
with my car. my ecs
>> system blinks tour and sport at the same time. i
have no idea what this
> > means. also my odometer/spedo stopped
working could it be a fuse or is it
> > something a dealer would have
to fix. any reply would be greatly appreciated
This indicates, either a
sensor has gone bad or a wire on the strut has broken. You may need to test the
wires and make sure they all have contact. Any cheapie little voltmeter should
do the trick. This has happened to me once and I fixed it by soldering a broken
wire. It has also happened again and am waiting for some time to take the
thing apart and start testing again.
- - Steve
>
>The VR4
speedo is electrical. There is a gear housing on the transmission
with
>an electrical connector. One thing to check is that the cable
is still
>connected properly. To get to it, you have to remove the
battery, tray, and
>windshield washer resevoir. The gear housing is
between the engine block and
>the firewall.
>
>Good
luck,
>Ken
>--
>If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
>
>Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>General
Atomics
>San Diego
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 17:59:12 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: shocks
All,
Anyone know where to find shocks for Stealths
that I can order online at a
good price? Got any that are new you want to
sell?
Tim
'91 Stealth
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:28:09 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts, was:shocks
> Anyone know where to find shocks for
Stealths that I can order online at a
> good price? Got any that are new
you want to sell?
For the benefit of our new folks, this information
bears repeating...
For NEW parts, there are numerous Mitsubishi dealers
(yes, you can order Stealth
parts too) that provide a generous discount to
list members. The ones that come
up most frequently are:
Lou
Fuzz Mitsu, 1-800-528-2525, ask for Greg or Marty. They're in Saint
Louis
Rockland Mitsu 1-914-353-2100, ask for Terry. They're in New York
City
West Broad Mitsu 1-800-229-1001, they're in Virginia
Tallahassee
Mitsu 1-888-825-5648 (1-888-tall-mit). They're in Florida.
Tallahassee
is also at
http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits
or
tallmits@mindspring.comNorco Mitsu
1-888-689-1788, ask for Bill. They are in Sothern California.
They
are also at
http://www.norcomits.comI've
personally used Tallahassee and Norco extensively and their service
is
great. A set of 4 ECS shocks will cost about $540.
Also, try
these salvage yards for Stealth & 3000GT USED parts:
M&S is
located in Rancho Cordova near Sacramento.
1-800-695-4700
http://www.msrecycling.com/main.htmlFoster's
Auto Parts
10355 SE Foster Road
Portland, OR
(800) 547-4851
(800)
278-5548
East Street Automotive
810 East Street ( who'da thunkit? )
Memphis,
Tennersee 38104
phone: (901) 774-5374
fax:
(901) 774-5336
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:59:37 -0700
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S: Aero
light comes on frequently
About half the time I drive my' 91 VR4, the
Aero light comes on and the
spoiler no longer works. It stays in the down
position. If I stop and shut
off the car and restart it then it works again.
Any ideas?
- -MM
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 21:32:18 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Denso Injectors
Hi
I have received a set of 720 Denso injectors
today. I was looking for some
markings or something that verify
the size
of them but coulden't find anything. The part number say
195600-0830 and they
have light blue tops, no other markings. Are these
injectors
720??
Thanks,
Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 12:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Denso Injectors
Mikael,
My notes say my 720s have
195500-0830 marked on them. I may have
typed the second 5 wrong or it may
make no difference at all. I
bought mine from Matt at Accelerated
Accessories. I'll check
again when I have the injectors in front of me and
report if the
number is different than above.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Mikael Åkesson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Team3S
list" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 12, 2000 1:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Denso
Injectors
Hi
I have received a set of 720 Denso injectors today. I
was
looking for some markings or something that verify the size of
them
but coulden't find anything. The part number say
195600-0830 and they have
light blue tops, no other markings.
Are these
injectors
720??
Thanks,
Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Send online invitations with Yahoo! Invites.
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 13:25:39 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aero light comes on frequently
> About half the time I
drive my' 91 VR4, the Aero light comes on and the
> spoiler no longer
works. It stays in the down position. If I stop and shut
> off the car and
restart it then it works again. Any ideas?
Someone once mentioned that
this happens when the time it takes to go up or down
is too long, or when the
times are too different between the front and rear
mechanisms.
To try
to solve the problem, try the disassembly, lube, and reassembly procedure
as
described on
http://www.3si.org and
http://www.3000gt.com under "Active
Aero
Repairs".
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you're not the
lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 14:55:17 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Priming the Oil System
I'd like to prime the oil system before I
start
my car for the first time on the new turbos.
Is this a good way
to do it? . . .
1) Unplug the spark plug wires from the coil packs.
2)
Crank the engine to build up some oil pressure.
Is there a better way
(like some fuse I can pull)?
How many times should I crank the
engine?
Thanks,
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 15:05:58 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Priming the Oil System
Yep, thats how I do it when ive
rebuilt something...but on the Supra motors I
do, I find it nicer to have all
the plugs out so I can really rev up *heh*.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Errin Humphrey [
mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, April 12, 2000 2:55 PM
To: Team3S; Starnet
Subject: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
I'd like to prime the oil system before I
start
my car for the first time on the new turbos.
Is this a good way
to do it? . . .
1) Unplug the spark plug wires from the coil packs.
2)
Crank the engine to build up some oil pressure.
Is there a better way
(like some fuse I can pull)?
How many times should I crank the
engine?
Thanks,
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:31:33 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
Errin,
There is a fuse you can pull to
disable the spark. On my 94 VR-4 it's
labeled
"motor".
Dan
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Errin Humphrey
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 5:55 PM
To:
Team3S; Starnet
Subject: Team3S: Priming the Oil System
I'd like
to prime the oil system before I start
my car for the first time on the new
turbos.
Is this a good way to do it? . . .
1) Unplug the spark
plug wires from the coil packs.
2) Crank the engine to build up some oil
pressure.
Is there a better way (like some fuse I can pull)?
How
many times should I crank the engine?
Thanks,
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:34:07 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine mount / trans problems/ suspension bushings
I know exactly
what you mean by engine movement. One Sunday at the drag
strip
practically destroyed my amplifier power cable that was securely
mounted
against the firewall. It was cut into badly by the heat shield
which
was about 3 inches away from the top when the car was off. It had
to
move about 4 inches back to cut that cable and got caught on the
hydraulic
line running across the back/top of the firewall. Dealership
said the motor
mounts are fine??? Too bad no one makes readily
available poly bushings for
the car. Maybe a little research will turn
up a replacement from another
vehicle. I am going to do exactly that to
find suspension bushings. I will
take mine out and bring them to Just
Suspension in New Jersey, where you can
buy polygraphite kits for many
vehicles. I will post cross references if I
find any.
Sam 95
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, April 10, 2000 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine mount / trans
problems
>I think one other side effect of our soft engine mounts
is the legendary
>"thud" problem that people experience when
down shifting to lower gears.
>Usually this "thud" sound happens
when people are almost stopped and they
>can't quite find first, then when
it finally goes in, you hear this
"thud"
>sound.
>
>I totally agree about our engines
moving around. I've looked under the
hood
>when someone else
gives it some throttle. That 6G72 wants to jump right
out
>of the
engine compartment.
:)
>
>later,
>Curt
>http://www.mn3s.org
>
>>From:
Aso8@aol.com>>To: vr4@bahnhof.se,
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>>CC:
Aso8@aol.com>>Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine mount / trans problems
>>Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:48:16
EDT
>>
>>I recently had new engine mounts made that are Hard
Mounts with zero play
>>and
>>I expect the ride to be much
harsher. These cost about $300. to do at a
>>good
>>welding
shop. Usually, its done "for street use" with a type of
hard
>>plastic
>>bushings that remove some/most of the play
that the rubber mounts give. It
>>should make for a faster racing time
but a rougher ride. If you floor the
>>throttle you can see the engine
will rock under the stress of the power
you
>>apply. The softer
mounts allow more give in the drive train and a
delay
>>prior
>>to the car reacting to the throttle. With hard
mounts the engine will not
>>move at all...The power transfer is
instant & stress is more severe.
>>Arty 91
VR-4
>>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Apr 2000 00:53:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Priming the Oil System
Or simply pull the connector to the coil
pack :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> There is a fuse you can pull to
disable the spark. On my 94 VR-4 it's
> labeled
"motor".
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:13:39 -0700
From: "Peg, Pete & Jes Gagne"
<
pagagne-mn@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aero light comes on frequently
All I had to do to fix mine
was use the spray on the hose and do a super
thorough job of spraying the
aero clean - especially around the middle where
the mechanism is. I
know it sounds nuts & totally unmechanically sound, but
it worked for me
twice.
Peg
94 VR4
Sandie Morrison wrote:
> About half
the time I drive my' 91 VR4, the Aero light comes on and the
> spoiler no
longer works. It stays in the down position. If I stop and shut
> off the
car and restart it then it works again. Any ideas?
>
>
-MM
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:47:01 -0700
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Getrag Tranny Question: Anyone else having theirs replaced at the
moment?
I have had my tranny replaced under warranty 2X for a leaky
tranny. Once,
it was diagnosed as a porous metal problem because it
just sweated out of
the bottom of the transfer case. The second time,
it leaked betwn xfer case
and gearbox. Mitsu can not touch any of the
turbo trannys except to replace
as a part. Any competent tranny repair
place can take the case apart and re
seal it with silicone etc. (which
is how both my rebuilds came sealed).
Sam 95 Vr-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dy, Leonard <
DyL@CTT.com>
To: 'Jim Berry' <
fastmax@home.com>
Cc: 3SI (E-mail)
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Tuesday, April 11, 2000 9:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Getrag Tranny Question:
Anyone else having theirs
replaced at the moment?
>Can a leaky
tranny and/or transfercase be repaired as long as the leak is
>not
due to a crack in the casing?
>I have a leak on my car and have yet to
determine it's source, but I would
>like to know my options once I do
determine the cause of
it.
>
>Thanks
>Len
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Jim Berry [
SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, April 11, 2000 10:24 AM
> To: Manoj Prasad; Kevin Fanciulli;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag Tranny Question: Anyone else
>having
theirs replaced at the moment?
>
>
> > Kevin,
>
>
> > How do you drive the car? Are you launching your car from the
stop
>position?
> > What parts have been replaced in the tranny?
Did they tell you
>what is wrong
> > this time?
>
>
> > The only parts that are not available are the syncrnos.
All other
>parts and
> > shafts are available, new. I would let
your dealer know about M&D
>Auto.
> > They would love to have
the resource to get rebuilt trannys.
>
>
> There are
'NO' rebuilt trannies with new parts other than those
>provided by
>
Getrag/CRS. There are bearing and seal sets available along
with
>output
> shafts and I think the concentric shaft. No new
gears, shift forks
>intermediate
> shafts, cases, synchros etc are
available. Nor are there specs
>available to
> determine whether or
not the new bearings require new shims
etc.
>
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 17:54:28 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Priming the Oil System
Dan Mecier wrote:
>
Errin,
>
> There is a fuse you can pull to disable the spark. On my
94 VR-4 it's
> labeled "motor".
Interesting. I have
a '94 VR4, but I can't find a fuse
labeled "motor." Not in
the fuse box, at least.
The closest this I can find is a fuse labeled
"Ignition."
Maybe this would work?
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 17:56:11 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Priming the Oil System
"R.G." wrote:
> Or
simply pull the connector to the coil pack :)
Ok, I'm not sure which
connector you're talking about.
Is it the connector with four wires which
clicks in just
below the front (wires to cylinders 3 and 6) coil
pack?
Thanks,
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:47:22 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Priming the Oil System
Ah hell, get a baster (or any kind of
large syringe type tool) to fill/prelube
the turbo cartridge before you put
the oil line on it..thats what I do in that
case.
:-----Original
Message-----
:From: Errin Humphrey [
mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
:Sent:
Wednesday, April 12, 2000 5:57 PM
:To: Mohler, Jeff
:Subject: Re: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
:
:
:"Mohler, Jeff"
wrote:
:
:> No, ther'll be no load on it...it'll be fine assuming you
:placed install grease
:> liberally.
:
:I was only doing turbos,
so I really didn't grease anything.
:
:> 10-15 seconds should be enough
for about any car.
:
:Ok,
thanks!
:
:--Errin
:
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 18:55:28 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
I wouldn't recommend pulling the coild pack wires,
unless you know for
certain what happens on a 3K ignition without a load on
it. Some electronic
ignitions systems will die in that case. It
is better and just as easy IMO
to pull the main fuse. Note that this
also means that pulling a plug and
leaving it dangling (not grounded) whilst
attempting to pump spark through
it may also cause damage. I won't try
this on my car, I don't suggest Errin
tries it on
his.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Or
simply pull the connector to the coil pack :)
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT
>
> > There is a fuse you can pull to disable the
spark. On my 94 VR-4 it's
> > labeled
"motor".
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:11:16 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
Errin,
I also have one labeled
"ignition" but, when pulled, it disables the
ignition switch, thus
I couldn't crank the engine. I will double check the
label on the one I
pulled and post here. Maybe it was
"engine".
Dan
<Interesting. I have a '94 VR4,
but I can't find a fuse
<labeled "motor." Not in the fuse
box, at least.
<The closest this I can find is a fuse labeled
"Ignition."
<Maybe this would work?
<--Errin
Humphrey
<Seattle
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 22:45:02 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Priming the Oil System
Another way you can do this (found out when
installing my AF gauge) is pull
the whole top plug from the ECU. You will be
able to crank it, but it won't
turn over and fire
up.
Matt
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Apr 2000 10:33:57 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Priming the Oil System
> Ok, I'm not sure which connector
you're talking about.
>
> Is it the connector with four wires which
clicks in just
> below the front (wires to cylinders 3 and 6) coil
pack?
Yes, this is the plug and for sure it doesn't hurt. During my
ignition tests I
did this several times and this doesn't harm the transitors.
The schematics show
that the transistors only ground the coils for a short
time and when the
transistor opens the spark fires. WIth no coils attached
the transistors are
simply a switsch without load. No problem when pulling
the coil connector :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Apr 2000 08:55:00 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Priming the Oil System
I don't know if this is helpful or not,
but if you're trying to crank the
engine without firing the cylinders
(similar to what you'd do to check
compression), the service manual
recommends pulling the crankshaft position
sensor. With this
disconnected, the ECU will not tell the ignition to fire,
thus no sparks and
no problems with disconnected coil packs. When you
reconnect it, you're
supposed to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to
reset the ECU error code
generated by disconnecting the CPS.
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 69,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Apr 2000 11:05:20 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Priming the Oil System
> I don't know if this is helpful or
not, but if you're trying to crank the
> engine without firing the
cylinders (similar to what you'd do to check
> compression), the service
manual recommends pulling the crankshaft position
> sensor. With
this disconnected, the ECU will not tell the ignition to fire,
> thus no
sparks and no problems with disconnected coil packs. When you
>
reconnect it, you're supposed to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes
to
> reset the ECU error code generated by disconnecting the
CPS.
The other nice thing about doing it this way is that the injectors
don't dump fuel into the cylinders, which washes away the oil coating from the
bore.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:10:57 -0700
From: Patrick Spann <
tobar8@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clunk in 1st gear
I have a 1992 VR-4 with 72,000
miles. Completely stock. Purchased last
year and know little
about the cars history. I am noticing a clunk when I
ease the clutch
out in first gear. This problem occurs about half the time,
and is
getting more noticeable. I drive the care very easy, no
quick
starts. It sounds like there is a bind somewhere under the car,
but I
cannot locate the exact location, but the rear/middle of the car seems
most
likely.
It may be a u-joint? Loose mount? Any
suggestions would be appreciated.
This is my first letter to 3s and I am very
pleased with my association with
3s so far.
Tobar8@earthlink.net
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End
of team3s V1 #107
*********************