team3s
Tuesday, April 11
2000
Volume 01 : Number
105
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 22:24:41 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 500HP on pump gas
Geoff Mohler wrote:
>
Absolutely _insane_ levels of HP are available on lower compression
>
builds.
Don't forget about the benefits available from
increasing the
displacement. There's no replacement ...
Check this out:
A
local speed shop has a VR4 race project in the
works. Generally, my
impression of them has been
that they are totally clueless, but their
customer has
tons of money to burn so what the heck.
Anyways, their
recent plan is to DE-stroke the motor!
They say there is a kit available from
a Dallas-based
company which I think consists of a different crank
which
acts to decrease the stroke (not sure if they also
include longer
rods). They claim that this allows for
9000rpms in our cars and that
the rpms will climb
~extremely~ fast and the turbos will spool much
more
easily.
I've never heard about this before. Any thoughts on
this?
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:21:58 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Engine mount / trans problems
Hi,
One experienced performance car
builder that I know say that one of the
reasons why we have problems with our
transmissions (synch etc) is due to
the fact that we have too soft and big
engine mounts that allows the engine
to move around too much. An engine that
moves around under driving in
combination with a wire shift system is a
deadly combination he said. If we
change the engine mounts to allot smaller
and stiffer bushings much of the
problems will go away. (yes it will hurt
comfort on a daily driver)
What do you guys think of this?? Anyone tested
it??
Mikael Akesson
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:48:16 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Engine mount
/ trans problems
I recently had new engine mounts made that are Hard
Mounts with zero play and
I expect the ride to be much harsher. These cost
about $300. to do at a good
welding shop. Usually, its done "for street
use" with a type of hard plastic
bushings that remove some/most of the
play that the rubber mounts give. It
should make for a faster racing time
but a rougher ride. If you floor the
throttle you can see the engine will
rock under the stress of the power you
apply. The softer mounts allow more
give in the drive train and a delay prior
to the car reacting to the
throttle. With hard mounts the engine will not
move at all...The power
transfer is instant & stress is more severe.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a
message dated 4/10/00 6:22:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
vr4@bahnhof.se writes:
<<
ubj: Team3S: Engine mount / trans problems
Date: 4/10/00 6:22:43
AM Pacific Daylight Time
From:
vr4@bahnhof.se (Mikael
Åkesson)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.stTo:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st (Team3S
list)
Hi,
One experienced performance car builder that I know say
that one of the
reasons why we have problems with our transmissions (synch
etc) is due to
the fact that we have too soft and big engine mounts that
allows the engine
to move around too much. An engine that moves around under
driving in
combination with a wire shift system is a deadly combination he
said. If we
change the engine mounts to allot smaller and stiffer bushings
much of the
problems will go away. (yes it will hurt comfort on a daily
driver)
What do you guys think of this?? Anyone tested it??
Mikael
Akesson
>>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:05:52 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine mount / trans problems
I think one other side effect
of our soft engine mounts is the legendary
"thud" problem that
people experience when down shifting to lower gears.
Usually this
"thud" sound happens when people are almost stopped and they
can't
quite find first, then when it finally goes in, you hear this "thud"
sound.
I totally agree about our engines moving around. I've
looked under the hood
when someone else gives it some throttle. That
6G72 wants to jump right out
of the engine compartment.
:)
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Aso8@aol.com>To:
vr4@bahnhof.se,
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>CC:
Aso8@aol.com>Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine mount / trans problems
>Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:48:16
EDT
>
>I recently had new engine mounts made that are Hard Mounts
with zero play
>and
>I expect the ride to be much harsher. These
cost about $300. to do at a
>good
>welding shop. Usually, its done
"for street use" with a type of hard
>plastic
>bushings
that remove some/most of the play that the rubber mounts give. It
>should
make for a faster racing time but a rougher ride. If you floor
the
>throttle you can see the engine will rock under the stress of the
power you
>apply. The softer mounts allow more give in the drive train and
a delay
>prior
>to the car reacting to the throttle. With hard
mounts the engine will not
>move at all...The power transfer is instant
& stress is more severe.
>Arty 91
VR-4
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 08:45:10 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R
> OK I give up ----- where in the hell did you guys
and gals mount the AVC-R
> display/control module ????????
>
> I don't see any obvious place that dosn't look like crap or where I can
see the
> display.
Are you talking about the new style with the
large blue display? I mounted mine
on the supplied bracket and slid it
into the right AC vent. It holds it fine
with friction, but it blocks
the factory boost guage (no biggie). I tucked the
wire between the
carpet and glove box. No drilling, cutting, fasteners, etc. so
I can
move it if I find a better place.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If
you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 08:53:07 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
> 1. Are the
wheel studs splined, thus requiring a machine shop to remove and
> replace
them?
I've never replaced any, but on my '91 VR4 hubs they do appear
splined and
pressed in. You could probably bang them out and install
them yourself (I've
done this before on a non-3S car). As you tighten
the stud, it will be pulled
into place. Just re-torque a few times
after a few miles.
> 2. When changing out the front stabilizer bar
bushings, how do I get to the
> top bolt? The steering rack boot appears
to be in the way.
> Are these as easy to replace as the manual indicates?
Anything to watch out
> for?
It was extremely easy to reach both
bolts on my '91 and my friends '92 VR4's. A
very easy job. We
just used a small socket wrench.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you're
not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 11:14:07 -0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
Super bad news
about broken wheed studs
Broke one of my front studs off the front passenger
wheel. The entire
assembly, including removing the drive axel
thingy. This means that you
will have to have the car realigned
afterwards. IT was a total PITA.
not something you can probably do your
self : (
Gabe Estrada
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 10:53 AM
To: Michael
Booker
Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
> 1. Are
the wheel studs splined, thus requiring a machine shop to remove
and
>
replace them?
I've never replaced any, but on my '91 VR4 hubs they do
appear splined and
pressed in. You could probably bang them out and
install them yourself
(I've
done this before on a non-3S car). As
you tighten the stud, it will be
pulled
into place. Just re-torque a
few times after a few miles.
> 2. When changing out the front
stabilizer bar bushings, how do I get to
the
> top bolt? The steering
rack boot appears to be in the way.
> Are these as easy to replace as the
manual indicates? Anything to watch
out
> for?
It was extremely
easy to reach both bolts on my '91 and my friends '92
VR4's. A
very
easy job. We just used a small socket wrench.
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:31:13 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
:I've never
replaced any, but on my '91 VR4 hubs they do appear
:splined and
:pressed
in. You could probably bang them out and install them
:yourself
(I've
:done this before on a non-3S car). As you tighten the stud,
:it will be pulled
:into place. Just re-torque a few times after a
few miles.
- ---
You shouldnt use the wheel for this..use a lugnut and
a washer or two by hand to
bring em into the hub.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 10:32:25 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
Really?
Ive
had all of our studs replaced up front with better ones..and didnt require
an
alignment at all.
Or..if I _need_ one I surely havent noticed on the
street or on the track.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Gabriel
Estrada [
mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net]
:Sent:
Monday, April 10, 2000 9:14 AM
:To:
Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
Ken Middaugh
:Subject: RE: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to
admins)
:
:
:Super bad news about broken wheed studs
:Broke one of
my front studs off the front passenger wheel. The entire
:assembly,
including removing the drive axel thingy. This
:means that
you
:will have to have the car realigned afterwards. IT was a total
PITA.
:not something you can probably do your self : (
:Gabe
Estrada
:
:-----Original Message-----
:From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st:[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
:Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 10:53 AM
:To: Michael
Booker
:Cc:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st:Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension questions (and note to admins)
:
:
:
:> 1.
Are the wheel studs splined, thus requiring a machine
:shop to
remove
:and
:> replace them?
:
:I've never replaced any, but on
my '91 VR4 hubs they do appear
:splined and
:pressed in. You could
probably bang them out and install them yourself
:(I've
:done this before
on a non-3S car). As you tighten the stud, it will be
:pulled
:into
place. Just re-torque a few times after a few miles.
:
:> 2. When
changing out the front stabilizer bar bushings, how
:do I get
to
:the
:> top bolt? The steering rack boot appears to be in the
way.
:> Are these as easy to replace as the manual indicates?
:Anything to watch
:out
:> for?
:
:It was extremely easy to
reach both bolts on my '91 and my friends '92
:VR4's. A
:very easy
job. We just used a small socket wrench.
:
:Good
luck,
:Ken
:--
:If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
:
:Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
:General Atomics
:San
Diego
:
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:
:
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:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:45:24 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost Limits on Pump Gas?
What is the limit of boost that I can run on
stock internals if I upgraded
my turbos? I hear the 13Gs can hold boost
up to 20psi while the 15G can
hold boost well past 20psi. Is it worth
getting the 15Gs if I *almost*
never use race gas? Can I run above
20psi on pump gas? If I can't, what
must be upgraded to do so, if it's
possible at all?
Thanks again,
Chris
92
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:00:28 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost Limits on Pump Gas?
> What is the limit of boost that I
can run on stock internals if I
> upgraded my turbos? I hear the
13Gs can hold boost up to 20psi
> while the 15G can hold boost well past
20psi. Is it worth
> getting the 15Gs if I *almost* never use race
gas? Can I run
> above 20psi on pump gas? If I can't, what
must be upgraded to
> do so, if it's possible at all?
15 psi on
pump gas. If you go beyond that, you need to do something to control
detonation (larger intercoolers, water injection, or higher octane fuel).
If you want to run race fuel or are able to control the detonation then you
should be able to run around 19 psi for short periods (ie: drag racing)
reasonably safely. Obviously, the more boost you run the more stresses
there are on the motor, but the highest danger is from detonation.
If you
go with 15G's instead of 13G's, do it because the 15G's are more efficient at
higher flow rates (ie: at higher RPM's) than the 13G's at the same pressure and
will heat the intake charge less than the 13G's, resulting in more
power.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:49:18 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS
Turbo Carbon Clutch - Share your sucess stories
Hello friends,
I
have a RPS Turbo Carbon clutch waiting to be installed. I am in
the
process of verifying that it is not one of the early ones that RPS sent
to
folks as part of the group purchase last year.
I am weary of the
quality in these clutches and therefore would like to hear
from folks that
have been happy with their RPS Turbo Carbon clutch. Please
reply if you
are happy with yours. I'd like to know approx. how many miles
you have
put on since you installed it, what type of driving it has been
exposed to,
and what approx. HP your engine is producing.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 18:45:59 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
I'd like to thank God, the list, and Lipton...
Geez, can't believe
it was that simple. I used the factory piping that came
with the Blitz
BOV and decided to vent to the atmosphere although the piping
allows you to
vent back into the intake. Basically it blew the cap off of
section
that's used to vent back into the intake and as a side effect it
was
measuring as though I was in boost and running WAY lean to compensate for
it.
I ended up hacking the top of a Lipton bottle and securing it in the pipe
and
it runs fine again. Good thing I'd only cleaned the exterior of the
car this
weekend :)
Thanks to Barry for the suggestion
and to Bob for getting my message out.
Now, back to educating
Mustangs...
thanks again,
Jason
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 17:49:45 -0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Custom 3-In-1 Gauge Pods
When I last posted my Stealth for sale,
some were interested in the
dash-mount gauge pod that I made. I am now
considering replicating a
few for some extra $$$. It's made from wire
mesh, fiberglass, bondo
(for a smooth surface), and vinyl to match the
dash. The face is 1/2"
plywood and can be made to fit 2 - 3 gauges
of any size. If there is
enough interest, I might make a few within the
next couple of months.
It took me about 1 week to make the one I have
now. The pod extends
back to the defroster vent so you can rout wires
through the vent
without having to drill any holes.
I've been offered
a good amount of money on the one that I have now.
Any ideas about what I
should ask for one?
For a rather grainy picture, visit:
http://www.napavalleyberryfarm.comand
look under the 600HP stealth section under More
Pictures.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 22:34:46 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Valve problem - what symptoms?
I still haven't figured out what is making
that loud, harsh, tapping noise
in my engine. It is violent enough to
make the clutch pedal vibrate but the
engine still runs normally. I
think there is less power, but I cannot
verify that. My mechanic friend
said it's a head problem, but didn't tell
me what exactly is wrong with
it. The tapping is not the infamous "lifter
tick" because
I've had that before and this is much louder and harsher.
It's kind of
metallic in sound and it gets faster when the engine is revved.
Maybe it
could be a derivative of the "lifter tick"? Otherwise I'm
thinking
a problem with a valve? The tapping noise was not very loud
for the past
few weeks, but then one day it just got REAL loud. It
could be described as
a knocking sound. Anyways, assuming it's a valve
problem(I'll find out when
I pull the heads off), what needs to be done to
repair it? Are valves
things you can just replace or is there some
machining that needs to be done
also?
Thanks again,
Chris
92
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 Apr 2000 06:56:06 -0700
From: Dan Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Valve problem - what symptoms?
Are you burning any oil? Did
you take a stethoscope (or a garage-o-scope, basically a wooden dowel) to the
area where the sound is eminating? Things are the things I'd check
first.
It sounds to me like one of your con-rods is letting loose, maybe
the wrist-pin is seizing. I have never had the lifter tick (or anything else in
the valvetrain) be responsible for a vibration that could be felt through the
clutch...Just another item to check. If it is a lifter, and you're getting that
kind of vibration/noise, it would appear it is totally flat, and your rocker arm
is slapping around. But, "knocking" sounds aren't usually attributed
to lifters, moreso they are indicators of a bottom end rebuild.
What kind
of mods are you running? Anymore info on your car?
Dan Jett
94 Stealth
TT
Centerforce DF clutch, Greddy exhaust, K/N FIPK, Polished Aluminum Y Pipe,
Greddy type S BOV, Magnecore 8.5KVR wires, 18" SSR Integrals,
>>> "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com> 04/10 10:34 PM
>>>
I still haven't figured out what is making that loud, harsh,
tapping noise
in my engine. It is violent enough to make the clutch
pedal vibrate but the
engine still runs normally. I think there is less
power, but I cannot
verify that. My mechanic friend said it's a head
problem, but didn't tell
me what exactly is wrong with it. The tapping
is not the infamous "lifter
tick" because I've had that before and
this is much louder and harsher.
It's kind of metallic in sound and it gets
faster when the engine is revved.
Maybe it could be a derivative of the
"lifter tick"? Otherwise I'm thinking
a problem with a
valve? The tapping noise was not very loud for the past
few weeks, but
then one day it just got REAL loud. It could be described as
a knocking
sound. Anyways, assuming it's a valve problem(I'll find out when
I pull
the heads off), what needs to be done to repair it? Are valves
things
you can just replace or is there some machining that needs to be
done
also?
Thanks again,
Chris
92 TT
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!
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #105
*********************