team3s
Sunday, April 9
2000
Volume 01 : Number
104
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:42:21 -0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: FW:
Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
Nikolaos M. Sgouros
Poseidon "X"
Inc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Debbie Brennan [
mailto:debbrth@f-tech.net]
Sent: Monday,
April 03, 2000 5:21 PM
To: Sue
Cc: Barb; Beth Schadler; Brenda Clifford;
Charlie; Dave Darlington; Ed
Harris; Francine; glen berkheiser; Heather
Righter; Kelly; Laudan Seigfried;
Missy Williams; Nadine; rose mick; Spook
& Bonnie; Steve
Subject: Fw: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "CHRISTINE CLENDENIN" <
chrisclendenin@erols.com>
To:
<
amysue811@aol.com>; <
j4aferguson@netscape.net>;
"Ann Wilson"
<
AWil231@aol.com>; "art clendenin"
<
aclendenin@ksaeng.com>;
"Betty Fryer"
<
bettyfryer@juno.com>; "BJ
Stoltzfus" <
bjstoltzfus@yahoo.com>; "carol
smith"
<
fsnoc@aol.com>;
"caroline paulson" <
cpaulson@mhv.net>; "Christy
Hughes"
<
LVHORSZ@aol.com>;
"Colleen Nicholson" <
Colleen@holisticanimal.com>;
"Debbie
Bull" <
dbull@bealenet.com>; "deborah
davis" <
objdart@juno.com>;
"Diana Jo
Clendenin" <
dianajo1@aol.com>; "Emily Morris
Paulson"
<
paulesp@frontiernet.net>;
"James Crocker" <
jardvark@juno.com>;
"karen
celine" <
kare227@aol.com>; <
KGROMOVSKY@aol.com>; "knox
askins"
<
kwaskins@aol.com>;
"Lou Ellen Clendenin" <
louellen10@aol.com>;
"Martha
Wagner" <
mcheynew@worldnet.att.net>;
"Mary Lou Clendenin" <
mlcblue@aol.com>;
"nancy
dederer" <
njcdederer@aol.com>; "Paul
Martin" <
pmartin@cleaf.com>;
"Ruth
Clendenin" <
reclendenin@yahoo.com>; "Shirley
Harris"
<
svharris@juno.com>; <
svharris@smart.net>
Sent: Wednesday,
March 29, 2000 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE
READ!
> Okay, I'll bite...! I really don't know if this is
for real--I can't
> imagine that it is, but then there's that nagging
"what if..." in the
> back of my mind. (Which, of course,
is what "they" want you to think!)
> So here goes...to those of
you who don't appreciate this sort of mail, I
> apologize; to those of you
who don't mind, give it a try! --Chris.
>
>
> Tina O.
Brown wrote:
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message
-----
> > From: Wendy Spangler >
> > To:
azron@mail.dc.freei.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 3:04 PM
> > Subject: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE
READ!
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message
-----
> > From: Bill & Luann Reif
> > To: Andy Lew ; barb
davenport ; Becky Wolf ; Betty Lew ; Brenda
> > Feldhaus ; Brenda's Mom
; Bruce Floriana ; Carol & Bill Cook ; Carol
> > Miller ; carrie
reif ; Cary Grimm ; charles wansitler ; Cheryl Harder
> > ; Constance S
Miller ; Dave & Cheryl Baum ; Del Culver ; Ed Lyons ;
> > Frank
Gluth ; Judy Reiter ; Kathy Taylor ; Kim Reif ; Linda Carnicom ;
> >
Lisa Lyons ; Martha Zimmermen ; michael grulke ; Sally Favro ; Sandy
>
> Konieczy ; Sue Ochs ; TINA FILLMORE ;
TRose10679@aol.com ; Wendy
> >
Spangler
> > Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 2:34 PM
> > Subject:
Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
> >
> >
> > -----
Original Message -----
> > From: x
> > To: Luann Reif
>
> Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 9:46 AM
> > Subject: Fw:
PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
> >
> >
> > ----- Original
Message -----
> > From: mailto:
<
FLAMINGOS@peoplepc.com> > To:
Luann Reif
> > Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2000 9:39 PM
> >
Subject: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
> >
> >
> >
----- Original Message -----
> > From: Nicki Collum
> > To:
Yvonne Riffle ;
Jimbecksw@aol.com ; Kim
& Bill Nye ; Angie &
> > Jeremy Morelock ; Jean Collum ; Liz
& Allen Shreffler ;
> >
EMTCAPTAIN@aol.com ;
melissarsimon@yahoo.com ;
DebPar420@aol.com> > Sent: Sunday,
March 26, 2000 9:22 PM
> > Subject: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
>
>
> > > Subject: Fw: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESE READ!
> >
>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In
a message dated 3/15/00 8:49:26 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> > >
jettt123@yahoo.com writes:
> >
>
> > > I'm an attorney, and I know the law. This thing is
for real.
> > > Rest assured AOL and Intel will follow through with
their
> > > promises for fear of facing a multimillion dollar
class action suit
> > > similar to the one filed by Pepsico against
General Electric not
> > too
> > > long
> > >
ago. I'll be damned if we're all going to help them out with their
>
> > e-mail beta test without getting a little something for our time.
My
> > > brother's
> > > girlfriend got in on this a few
months ago. When I went to visit him
> > for
> > >
the
> > > Baylor/UT game she showed me her check. It was for
the sum of
> > $4,324.44
> > > and was stamped "Paid
In Full". Like I said before, I know the
> >
law,
> > > and
> > > this is for real. If you don't
believe me you can email her at
> > >
piltman@baylor.edu> > > She's
eager to answer any questions you guys might have.
> > > Intel and
AOL are now discussing a merger which would make them the
> > >
largest Internet company and in an effort make sure that AOL remains
>
> > the most widely used program, Intel and AOL are running an
e-mail
> > beta
> > > test. When you forward
this e-mail to friends, Intel can and will
> > > track it (if you
are a Microsoft Windows user) for a two week time
> > >
period. For every person that you forward this e-mail to,
Microsoft
> > > will
> > > pay
> > > you
$203.15, for every person that you sent it to that forwards it
> >
on,
> > > Microsoft will pay you $156.29 and for
every third person that
> > > receives
> > > it, you
will be paid $17.65 Within two weeks,Intel will contact you
> >
for
> > > your address and then send you a check. I
thought this was a scam
> > > myself,
> > > but
>
> > a friend of my good friend's Aunt Patricia, who works at
Intel
> > actually
> > > got
> > > a
>
> > check for $4,543.23 by forwarding this e-mail. Try it, what
have
> > you
> > > got to
> > >
lose????
> > >
> > > Aisha Haynes
> > >
Administrative Assistant
> > > National Policy Association
>
> > (202) 884-7640
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 11:47:32 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
FW: Fw: PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
Please keep this nonsense out of this
list, and definitely do NOT send it or
anything like it to my personal
account.
If there is anyone who believes this sort of tripe, then I have
some land in
Florida that I'd like to sell you. I'll even through in an
historically
signicant bridge.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Nikolaos M. Sgouros
> Poseidon "X"
Inc
<Bull crap deleted>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 12:42:24 -0700
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
500 reliable HP on pump gas - What combination?
What combination of mods
should I get to obtain a reliable 500 hp on pump
gas? Are 13g's big
enough turbos, or should I go for the 15g's? What are
the pros and cons
of getting the turbos ported and clipped? What sized
injectors?
Do I need a modded ECU, or can a fuel computer like the VPC or
the Split
second MASC handle this? Obviously I'll need an upgraded clutch.
How
about the transmission, can it hold up well given that I don't launch
the car
very hard? Do I need upgraded ignition? How about the bottem
end?
Better pistons and/or rods? Any suggestions would be of great
help.
Thanks,
Chris
92 Stealth TT (got a "head problem"
so might as well do a build up...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 15:43:03 EDT
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help with steering problem
Hi Folks!
Time for another installment of "what's wrong with the base Stealth"
today. :) Let me give you the run-down.
The other day I
replaced the front sway bar bushings. After doing this, I
took the car
out and noticed a very loud, metallic "clunk" noise coming from
the front of the car whenever I made a semi-sharp turn at low speeds (e.g.
pulling into a parking space). Immediately thereafter, the car
exhibits a
VERY hard pulling in the direction of the turn (the steering
wheel can be
cocked as much as 45 degrees).
For example, if I
turned right into a parking space, I would hear
a "clunk",
and then the car will pull VERY hard to the right.
The only way to
restore this is to perform the same operation in the other
direction (i.e.
turn hard to the left until it clunks)
I have no idea what is going on,
and I am not really certain if it is tied
into the sway bar bushings
themselves. I could have hit or moved something
in the front end
without knowing it, but I am really uncertain.
Can anyone help me out
with this one? What might be the cause? What should
I look
at? How do I verify the cause of the problem?
I am really worried
about driving the car right now, and would appreciate
any help you folks can
provide!
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 13:02:00 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
500 reliable HP on pump gas - What combination?
I personally think 15Gs
are the way to go. The difference in lag between a
13G and 15G is
fairly minimal, and 15Gs are much better performers at the
upper RPM
range. With a proper fuel delivery mechanism, and mayeb upgraded
spark,
you should be able to run 15-17 PSI all day without serious problems.
A
better fuel pump is mandatory. I like the Japanese Cosmo fuel pump
which
is the same thing HKS sells for considerably more. You can get
them cheaper
than by buying the HKS one. It is a standard (in Japan)
Denso fuel pump. A
few places in the US can get them easly.
I am
not a fan of clipping, at least not for a street vehicle. Lag
will
increase, which you won't want for 15Gs. The theory behind
clipping is that
it keeps the turbine spinning within its optimal range,
which is a good
thing. This sacrifices spool-up time however. For
moderate HP applications
you will likely not benefit from clipped
turbines.
Porting is a way to achieve what benefits you might get from
clipping. It
is unlikely you will see a benefit from both on the
street, especially in
the 500 HP range. Good porting will make a
difference in spool up and
efficiency.
At least 550 cc injectors will
be required for 500 HP. You could even go
larger but that will
introduce fuel delivery tuning issues.
A modded ECU is not a bad idea but
I think you can probably get there with a
VPC/GCC/550cc injector
combination.
The MASC would allow you to forego the HKS route, but I
doubt you'll find a
MASC these days for sale that is set up for the 3K.
The Split Second
controller may be an option but based upon how it works I
doubt it is better
than the MASC and it may or may not even be better than
the VPC in practice.
Definitely a good alternative though, and probably my
preferred approach
over a VPC.
The '92 bottom end is not ideal but it
should be fine for 500 HP. The best
bet is a 4 bolt bottom end like in
'93+ engines.
If your engine is in need of a rebuild anyway, I'd
definitely go with forged
psitons and get the whole rotating assembly
properly balanced. This will
make a huge difference in reliability and
should improve response and peak
power.
The stock ignition is adequate
but perhaps not ideal for increased HP. I
believe it is fine for 500 HP
though, others may disagree.
The stock tranny is what it is and can
likely not be easily modified to
withstand additional stress. A decent
clutch is about all you can do beyond
running excellent fluids, which
hopefully you already do anyway. Treating
it right is the key to
longevity.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> What combination of mods should I get to obtain a
reliable 500 hp on pump
> gas? Are 13g's big enough turbos, or
should I go for the 15g's? What are
> the pros and cons of getting
the turbos ported and clipped? What sized
> injectors? Do I
need a modded ECU, or can a fuel computer like the VPC or
> the Split
second MASC handle this? Obviously I'll need an
> upgraded
clutch.
> How about the transmission, can it hold up well given that I
don't launch
> the car very hard? Do I need upgraded ignition?
How about the
> bottem end?
> Better pistons and/or rods? Any
suggestions would be of great help.
>
> Thanks,
>
Chris
> 92 Stealth TT (got a "head problem" so might as well do
a build up...)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 13:24:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 500HP on pump gas
It depends how you want to produce
it.
If I had to do the same thing, it would be a lower compression
motor.
Gobs of HP can be produced on lower compression with more boost,
because
you are shifting the detonation points..further away than you have
with
higher compression.
Absolutely _insane_ levels of HP are
available on lower compression
builds.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:02:46 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin NOTICE: Was--PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE READ!
To all newbies,
Not
only is such forwarding such nonsense against the Team3S rules,
it's also a
bad idea if you want to be a good "netizen". Since you
have
already identified yourself as a newbie by doing so, let me
provide some
facts for you and any other newbies out there who might
have thought (even
for a second) that there might be ANY truth to
this---
If you ever see
anything like this, chances are 99% or better that
it is a hoax or
"Urban Legend". To be a good "netizen", look
them
up before you forward them to ANYONE. I suggest
www.urbanlegends.com , although even the
Fed has a couple of sites
where you can research them. This particular
hoax has been around
so long it even has a special category on the above
site. For those
of you too lazy to do the right thing and actually
LEARN something,
here is a brief outline of what it says:
-
-----------------------
"Synopsis: Microsoft and AOL have
merged and are giving away cash
awards for forwarding email.
Is it
true?: No. It is a hoax.
Why?: Forwarded email
can't be tracked. There is no free lunch.
When?:
September 1999
Comments: These email forwarding hoaxes have
been multiplying at a
furious rate. New variations are popping up every week.
Much like
the "Good Times" virus hoaxes that preceeded them, these
email
forwarding hoaxes are a way of tweaking the Internet
novice.
Consider them the Internet equivalent of the 'Kick Me'
sign.
Unfortunately, given the staying power of hoaxes like "Good
Times"
and legends like Craig Shergold, we'll be seeing these
email
forwarding stories for some time to come.
Why shouldn't you
forward these emails?: If you do, your friends
who know these are
hoaxes will think you are a credulous newbie.
-
-----------------------------
Since you're already wearing the
aforementioned newbie "KICK ME"
sign, you will not be removed from
the Team3S list. But there will
not be further warnings. These
are NOT acceptable on our list (or
any other places either).
Sometimes
I think they should require licensing for operating a
computer! And
shame on you... For wasting my time like this on my
friggen
BIRTHDAY!!!
I'm going for a drive...
:-)
Best,
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 17:13:52 -0700
From: James Stephen Gula <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 500
reliable HP on pump gas - What combination?
> The stock tranny is what
it is and can likely not be easily modified
to
> withstand additional
stress. A decent clutch is about all you can do beyond
> running
excellent fluids, which hopefully you already do anyway. Treating
>
it right is the key to longevity.
I don't know if this can be emphasized
more or not... but it's better
to break a clutch than break a tranny
:) There are a few people out
there that run high 11's and low
12's all day without losing a tranny.
Either slip the clutch or, when you
get to a point where you've got the
power, dropping the clutch and causing
all four tires to spin are the
best options. I'm still pro clutch slip, but
AWD burnouts are fun to
watch :) However, you still risk the
tranny doing an AWD burnout. But
I _think_ (as in I'm not sure) the biggest
tranny problems arise from
guys that think they've got the power, so they
drop the clutch at high
RPMs.. so everything starts turning except for those
four tires with
4200-4300+lbs (car+driver+gas+etc) of weight being forced on
them, so
the tranny gives.
Of course, I could be wrong, and if I am,
we'll find out about 10
minutes after this post cause everyone will correct
me :)
- ------------------------------
- --Steve
"Loco3KGT Gula
- --
http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu-
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 15:32:13 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
500 reliable HP on pump gas - What combination?
Slipping the clutch is
one approach, but the fact of the matter is,
wheelspin will save a tranny and
get you decent laucnhes (to a degree of
course) much better than slipping the
clutch. The stress on the tranny
comes from the clutch not slipping and
the wheels not spinning. The strain
has to go some where and it is the
rest of the driveline that absorbs it.
Other than driveline shock, that is
the biggest stressor.
So, if you have buttloads of HP and can break the
tires loose at the line
easily, you are less likely to break a tranny, within
reason of course.
My car will break all four loose during 1-2 shift and
does so easily from a
1st gear launch, and this should help save the tranny
somewhat. This is
less of a problem with 2WD vehicles. The AWD
bites so well at launch that
it is hard to get it to spin sometimes unless
there's a lot of power on tap
to do it.
When I say decent clutch, I
don't neccessarily mean one that clamps on like
an iron fist and won't break
loose. You do want clutch slippage above a
certain HP level for the
reasons you describe. You do NOT want excessive
clutch slip off the
line or it'll never get the power to the ground. It is
a balancing
act.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> > The stock tranny is what it is and can
likely not be easily modified
> to
> > withstand additional
stress. A decent clutch is about all you
> can do beyond
>
> running excellent fluids, which hopefully you already do
>
anyway. Treating
> > it right is the key to
longevity.
>
> I don't know if this can be emphasized more or not...
but it's better
> to break a clutch than break a tranny
:) There are a few people out
> there that run high 11's and
low 12's all day without losing a tranny.
> Either slip the clutch or,
when you get to a point where you've got the
> power, dropping the clutch
and causing all four tires to spin are the
> best options. I'm still pro
clutch slip, but AWD burnouts are fun to
> watch :) However,
you still risk the tranny doing an AWD burnout. But
> I _think_ (as in I'm
not sure) the biggest tranny problems arise from
> guys that think they've
got the power, so they drop the clutch at high
> RPMs.. so everything
starts turning except for those four tires with
> 4200-4300+lbs
(car+driver+gas+etc) of weight being forced on them, so
> the tranny
gives.
>
> Of course, I could be wrong, and if I am, we'll find out
about 10
> minutes after this post cause everyone will correct me
:)
>
> ------------------------------
> --Steve "Loco3KGT
Gula
> --http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
>
------------------------------
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 15:32:13 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
500 reliable HP on pump gas - What combination?
Slipping the clutch is
one approach, but the fact of the matter is,
wheelspin will save a tranny and
get you decent laucnhes (to a degree of
course) much better than slipping the
clutch. The stress on the tranny
comes from the clutch not slipping and
the wheels not spinning. The strain
has to go some where and it is the
rest of the driveline that absorbs it.
Other than driveline shock, that is
the biggest stressor.
So, if you have buttloads of HP and can break the
tires loose at the line
easily, you are less likely to break a tranny, within
reason of course.
My car will break all four loose during 1-2 shift and
does so easily from a
1st gear launch, and this should help save the tranny
somewhat. This is
less of a problem with 2WD vehicles. The AWD
bites so well at launch that
it is hard to get it to spin sometimes unless
there's a lot of power on tap
to do it.
When I say decent clutch, I
don't neccessarily mean one that clamps on like
an iron fist and won't break
loose. You do want clutch slippage above a
certain HP level for the
reasons you describe. You do NOT want excessive
clutch slip off the
line or it'll never get the power to the ground. It is
a balancing
act.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> > The stock tranny is what it is and can
likely not be easily modified
> to
> > withstand additional
stress. A decent clutch is about all you
> can do beyond
>
> running excellent fluids, which hopefully you already do
>
anyway. Treating
> > it right is the key to
longevity.
>
> I don't know if this can be emphasized more or not...
but it's better
> to break a clutch than break a tranny
:) There are a few people out
> there that run high 11's and
low 12's all day without losing a tranny.
> Either slip the clutch or,
when you get to a point where you've got the
> power, dropping the clutch
and causing all four tires to spin are the
> best options. I'm still pro
clutch slip, but AWD burnouts are fun to
> watch :) However,
you still risk the tranny doing an AWD burnout. But
> I _think_ (as in I'm
not sure) the biggest tranny problems arise from
> guys that think they've
got the power, so they drop the clutch at high
> RPMs.. so everything
starts turning except for those four tires with
> 4200-4300+lbs
(car+driver+gas+etc) of weight being forced on them, so
> the tranny
gives.
>
> Of course, I could be wrong, and if I am, we'll find out
about 10
> minutes after this post cause everyone will correct me
:)
>
> ------------------------------
> --Steve "Loco3KGT
Gula
> --http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu
>
------------------------------
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 19:16:54 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need
help with steering problem
Sounds very much like a bad cv joint. This
normally occurs after the rubber
boot cracks allowing water and dirt to get
in the joint as well as washing
the grease out of the joint. It will need to
be replaced.
Dan
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Dg B
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2000 3:43 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st;
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Need help with steering
problem
Hi Folks!
Time for another installment of
"what's wrong with the base Stealth"
today. :) Let me give
you the run-down.
The other day I replaced the front sway bar
bushings. After doing this, I
took the car out and noticed a very loud,
metallic "clunk" noise coming from
the front of the car whenever I
made a semi-sharp turn at low speeds (e.g.
pulling into a parking
space). Immediately thereafter, the car exhibits a
VERY hard pulling in
the direction of the turn (the steering wheel can be
cocked as much as 45
degrees).
For example, if I turned right into a parking space, I would
hear
a "clunk", and then the car will pull VERY hard to the
right.
The only way to restore this is to perform the same operation in
the other
direction (i.e. turn hard to the left until it clunks)
I
have no idea what is going on, and I am not really certain if it is tied
into
the sway bar bushings themselves. I could have hit or moved
something
in the front end without knowing it, but I am really
uncertain.
Can anyone help me out with this one? What might be the
cause? What should
I look at? How do I verify the cause of the
problem?
I am really worried about driving the car right now, and would
appreciate
any help you folks can provide!
Thanks in
advance!
Regards,
Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 18:22:27 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R
>OK I give up ----- where in the hell did you guys and
gals mount the AVC-R
>display/control module ????????
Jim-
I
mounted mine on the forward inside wall of the console "box". I
used
velcro (hook and loop). It requires that you make runs with the
console
lid open to program it, but this is only a temporary
inconvience.
Regards, ptg
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 19:44:00 -0400
From: "mark1mtg" <
mark1mtg@netzero.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump
Hey all!
I'm replacing the stock fuel pump in my
92 VR4 with a high flow pump. I got
the thread connection loose between the
flare nut and the rubber hose, but
the flare nut is siezed on the fuel line
going into the pump/guage unit.
Any ideas on how to free up the nut so I
can disconnect the line to get the
unit
out? The fitting at the other end
of the rubber hose looks much worse than
at the pump so I'm afraid to try
that
one.
Mark
_____________________________________________
NetZero
- Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and
Email
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 18:59:14 -0500
From: Trevor James <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump
I just replaced mine friday with the HKS ($$$) unit.
The flare nut at the top
of the fuel pump assembly is brazed onto the line.
It doesn't spin. Practically
the only was to take it off is to disconnect the
other end of the rubber hose
first. The flared nut on that end spins. After
it's disconnected on the forward
end you'll be able to spin the rubber hose
in order to disconnect it from the
brazed (welded) rear flare nut. A good
thing to buy is those cool open ended
wrenches made specifically for plumbing
that grab onto the b-nuts better
without rounding them
off...
Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.653@107.88
91 Octane, Stock Turbos
& Fueling, $1600 in bolt-ons
Now very "under the weather" due
to a POS VPC
92 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4
mark1mtg wrote:
>
Hey all!
>
> I'm replacing the stock fuel pump in my 92 VR4 with a
high flow pump. I got
> the thread connection loose between the flare nut
and the rubber hose, but
> the flare nut is siezed on the fuel line going
into the pump/guage unit.
>
> Any ideas on how to free up the nut so
I can disconnect the line to get the
> unit
> out? The fitting at
the other end of the rubber hose looks much worse than
> at the pump so
I'm afraid to try that one.
>
> Mark
>
>
_____________________________________________
> NetZero - Defenders of the
Free World
> Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
>
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 09:44:40 +0700
From: "CV.Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: tick
It is like mine, but I fixed it with removed it first
and immerse into clean
diesel fuel by inserting small wire (paper clip) from
top hole to bottom to
push down check valve till the lifter is collapsed then
pump it up and down
to bleed air out and after that pull out a paper clip
then pump once again
and feel that the lifter is strong not collapsed then
install to barrrel and
completed the valve train.
Now I start the engine
wooooooooo like a kitten no noise and I have driven
it 1000 miles
without noise.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
<ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Saturday, April 08, 2000 1:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: tick
My lifters
are ticking intermittently , one starts
then stops, then one on the other
side starts.
Is this dirt and stuff on the lifter? I added rislone, can this
help?
iff so how long should i give it before cleaning lifters, I assume if
it
were parts it would be consistantly tapping on the same ones.
Joe
92
TR
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 23:08:03 -0400
From: "Gene Yanenko" <
Gene@BullMarketPicks.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT Squealing
I have a '92 3000GT VR-4 with a '93 engine the
problem I have is when the
car is moving faster than 5mph even in neutral and
not using the brakes I
hear a quiet high pitched squealing sound but I can't
find where its coming
from any of you have any ideas.
Thanx,
Gene
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 Apr 2000 20:19:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT Squealing
Might be a stone between caught in a brake
dust sheild....
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . .
1995 Mitsu.
VR4
Plate: SPDTOY 2* 13.2@107
2000 Celica
GT-S
Plate: SPDTOY 3* 14.9@96Mph
1987 Supra
Turbo
Plate: SPDTOY 1* 13.38@104Mph
-
---------------------------------------------------
K&N FIPK,Spearco
IC,APEXi N1 Exhaust*,Custom Hardpipe Kit,Walbro Fuel Pump,
Custom
Aluminum-Alloy Flywheel,RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body,
Mueller Lightweight
Driveshaft*,HKS Downpipe*Lightweight Main Pulley**,
Full Redline Synthetic
Oils & WW,AEM Cam Gear (Intake)*,Dave Hall AFPR,
Greddy Type-S
BOV,Lightewight 16x8" Racing Wheels,HKS FCD,Greddy EGT Guage,
ST Swaybar
Set,Eibach Pro Spring Set,Tokico-II TEMS Struts,
APEXi (new) AVC-R,Broward
Dual-Friction Clutch*,BM150 Electric Fan
Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated
Rotors, crossdrilled*,Porterfield R4-S Pads*,
Full DOT 5.1 Brake
fluid,Goodridge SS Brake lines,Dunlop SP8000 tires.
Yes..all this on a stock
HG too @75-80lbs..I ferget.
+++
* On order
** Being
developed
On Sun, 9 Apr 2000, Gene Yanenko wrote:
> I have a
'92 3000GT VR-4 with a '93 engine the problem I have is when the
> car is
moving faster than 5mph even in neutral and not using the brakes I
> hear
a quiet high pitched squealing sound but I can't find where its coming
>
from any of you have any ideas.
> Thanx, Gene
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 23:44:50 -0500
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
looking for vr4 stereo
Howdy,
I Have A 95 VR4 and I am trying to
locate an infinity Q401(with code card)
with the controls for the steering
wheel
What'cha Got?
Marc
Marc Jaffe
JaffeMedia
Web Site
Design, Graphics & Photography
www.marcjaffe.commarc@marcjaffe.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 Apr 2000 00:03:42 -0500
From: "J.D. Stewart" <
jstewart@ncfcomm.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Decisions, Decisions..
Sorry about the exclusion. He wants
$14K :>(
J.D.
>
>
> Take it! Its the
best year made,stronger engine/trans and still
> has some of
> the
fancy gizmos and no obdII system. Plus with only 35 thous
> miles you
cant
> beat that. But you never did put in the price he is asking for
it??? Make
> sure you take it to a reputable shop and have the thing strip
searched
> before buying just to make sure everything is good on it! Good
luck :)
>
> 92 3000 GTO S.C.
> Car is 3 months away from
completion :)
> Plates (HIPRESR)
> 1-800-888-gwla x4733
>
http://www.users.uswest.net/~ppalamara>
>
> Many of you may remember me asking about the 3000/Stealths
that I
> found a
> couple of weeks ago. I finally got to look
at/drive the red '93 this
> morning. It's an RT, with 35K miles on
it. It has never been licensed,
> since the guy owns a repair shop
and deals cars every once in a
> while. It's
> sporting a
dealer plate right now. It's his wife's car, and has
> never
been
> abused. Absolutely everything is perfect on this car.
It looks
> and drives
> just like it came off the showroom.
Options include sunroof, CD changer,
> power windows, seats etc, leather,
and probably a bunch I don't
> know. Kelly
> Blue Book shows
it retailing at $12,920.
> As much as I want this car, it sure is
pricey. I doubt that I'd
> ever find
> another that is in this
pristine of condition. Comments anyone?
>
> J.D.
Stewart
> NCF Communications, Inc.
> http://www.ncfcomm.com
>
UltraFun AirSports
>
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
> Challenger Owners E-mail
List Administrator
> http://challenger.maverick.net
> Northeast
Nebraska Flying Club
> http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/nnfc
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 22:14:39 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS turbo upgrade?
Casey Spivey wrote:
> I can't
find info on this anywhere. What are the turbo sizes that are
> used in
HKS' GT2835 ball bearing turbo upgrade kit? I am guessing 15g
> or 18g,
but I want to know for sure. Thanks, Later
Casey,
I'm pretty sure
that the HKS GT2835 is a Garrett T28.
From what I've heard, it is no longer
available for sale
directly from HKS (unless you do a special order
or
something like that).
FYI, the 15G and 18T turbos are made by
Mitsubishi.
- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 Apr 2000 22:19:44 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 500 reliable HP on pump gas
"Barry E. King"
wrote:
> A better fuel pump is mandatory. I like the Japanese
Cosmo fuel pump which
> is the same thing HKS sells for considerably
more. You can get them cheaper
> than by buying the HKS one.
It is a standard (in Japan) Denso fuel pump. A
> few places in the
US can get them easly.
According to Mike (AAM), HKS somehow "bought
out" the
Denso fuel pump so that you can no longer buy it. If you
know
from whom I can buy the Cosmo/Denso fuel pump please let
me know
asap. The HKS fuel pump price recently went up to
nearly
$600!
Thanks!
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #104
*********************