team3s            Wednesday, April 5 2000            Volume 01 : Number 101




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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 11:11:16 -0500
From: "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart@ncfcomm.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3S Values

Hi group.  Stealth owner wannabe here.  :>)
    I found a 92 Mitsu non-turbo that a dealer had traded in, and he later
found out the engine was bad.  Apparently, it makes so much noise, that the
mechanics don't want to touch it either.  Since they give a 90 day warrantee
on any used car they sell, they ran it through the auction to get rid of it.
No takers, at their minimum.  So, they have it back, and they'd like to dump
it cheap.  I'm trying to get a handle on the costs of re-doing the engine,
so I can make an informed offer on it.  Everything else looks good, but of
course it's not drivable, so there's plenty else to take into consideration.
I'm a former ASE-certified mechanic, but 3S's were not my area.
    Then, almost as a fluke, I mentioned this to a friend who owns a
car-repair shop, and he said that his wife was thinking of getting rid of
her '93 Stealth RT.  It's red, completely loaded, with only 30K miles.  I
hope I didn't show too much excitement, or let on that I was simply drooling
on the phone.  No price mentioned yet.
    I know there's really not enough info here, but close guesses will help
out.  BTW, I'm in the Midwest USA.  Thanks.

J.D. (keeping my fingers crossed) Stewart
NCF Communications, Inc.
http://www.ncfcomm.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.users.ncfcomm.com/ultrafunairsports
Challenger Owners Website and e-mail list administrator
http://challenger.maverick.net
GET PAID TO SURF THE NET
https://www.alladvantage.com/home.asp?refid=HOZ585


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:20:47 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3S Values

Hey, JD,

Hmmm...  Two cars, both DOHC NTs - a '92 3k with a trashed engine,
and a low-mileage '93 RT that's probably been pretty well cared
for...  But why limit yourself to only two choices?  I can only
imagine your excitement about having two cars available locally at
what are probably great prices.  And I envy that you're a certified
mechanic capable of doing much of the work yourself.  But if I may
suggest some other things to consider before buying (to make your
decision even tougher)...  :-)

Both these cars are 1st generation, and although both are eminently
"moddable", I would take a look at the second-generation '94-and-up
cars as being slightly more desirable;  they are safer (dual
air-bags standard and enhanced crash-point reinforcement), and a
number of systems were upgraded.  Since now you are shopping
actively, I think you'll find a number of other 3S vehicles for sale
in your area (www.autotrader.com), so you should probably decide up
front which styling you prefer-- the racier 3000GT or the more
understated Stealth, which is just slightly faster because of its
lighter weight.  That brings up another point - that if you're
really into neck-snapping acceleration and incredible cornering, you
won't be happy with anything less than an AWD turbo, even with its
more complex and occasionally troublesome technology.  I would think
that would be less of a problem for someone who has worked around
engines than for many of the rest of us.  Insurance rates are
probably a lot lower where you are than in other parts of the
country, but the turbo models cost almost double to insure, and are
not eligible for aftermarket warranty protection with many carriers.

No matter what you choose, you won't be disappointed.  I've never
met a 3S car I didn't like...  :-)  Good luck, and "ask away" with
any other questions you might have.

Best,

Forrest     '94 Stealth NT, Red

- -----Original Message-----From: J.D. Stewart <jstewart@ncfcomm.com>
>Hi group.  Stealth owner wannabe here.  :>)
>    I found a 92 Mitsu non-turbo that a dealer had traded in, and
he later
>found out the engine was bad.  Apparently, it makes so much noise,
that the
>mechanics don't want to touch it either.  Since they give a 90 day
warrantee
>on any used car they sell, they ran it through the auction to get
rid of it.
>No takers, at their minimum.  So, they have it back, and they'd
like to dump
>it cheap.  I'm trying to get a handle on the costs of re-doing the
engine,
>so I can make an informed offer on it.  Everything else looks good,
but of
>course it's not drivable, so there's plenty else to take into
consideration.
>I'm a former ASE-certified mechanic, but 3S's were not my area.
>    Then, almost as a fluke, I mentioned this to a friend who owns
a
>car-repair shop, and he said that his wife was thinking of getting
rid of
>her '93 Stealth RT.  It's red, completely loaded, with only 30K
miles.  I
>hope I didn't show too much excitement, or let on that I was simply
drooling
>on the phone.  No price mentioned yet.
>    I know there's really not enough info here, but close guesses
will help
>out.  BTW, I'm in the Midwest USA.  Thanks.
>J.D. (keeping my fingers crossed) Stewart






***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:40:55 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 weight

From: "Bob_Rand" <Bob_Rand@msn.com>
When I am on a wavy
> or road with dips the front end starts to bounce up and down way to much.
> Other than that one issue they are fine


I do not have that problem... then again, I have GAB shocks/struts. Either
the dampening level of the stock shocks it to little for your spring rate or
your shocks are worn....

Hoser
visit my Stealth site at www.3si.org/amahoser



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 15:15:38 -0400
From: "Bob_Rand" <Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 weight

I replaced all the struts new when I did the springs.  I have 550lb front
and 325lb rear springs.

Bob
93 Steatlth TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
To: Bob_Rand <Bob_Rand@msn.com>; Team3S list <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 weight


>
> From: "Bob_Rand" <Bob_Rand@msn.com>
> When I am on a wavy
> > or road with dips the front end starts to bounce up and down way to
much.
> > Other than that one issue they are fine
>
>
> I do not have that problem... then again, I have GAB shocks/struts. Either
> the dampening level of the stock shocks it to little for your spring rate
or
> your shocks are worn....
>
> Hoser
> visit my Stealth site at www.3si.org/amahoser
>
>
>




***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 19:41:30 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Installing EGT Gauge

I recently bought a GReddy EGT gauge, and
I have some questions about installing it.

I'd like to install it while the turbos are off the
car right now so that I can use a vacuum cleaner
to suck the metal crap out of the manifold.  I
plan to install it in the front manifold with the
probe sticking straight up just behind the dipstick.

1) What size drill bit and tap do I use for the
probe fitting?

The manual says to use an 1/8 PT tap and it
doesn't suggest a drill size.  The Apexi EGT
manual says to use a 1/8 PT tap and to drill an
8 pi hole.

I wasn't able to find either of these things at the
hardware store.  The closest thing was a drill
and tap combo of the size: 1/4-18NPT 7/16".
This is all Greek to me.  :)

2) Is a wireless drill okay or do I need to use
a plug-in type drill?  (I doubt it makes a diff).

3) Any other advice about drilling and tapping
the hole? and about tightening the probe fitting?

Thanks in advance for your help!

- --Errin
Seattle


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 17:27:29 +0700
From: "CV.Duta Karya Teknik" <dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: NEED INFO

Hi All,

Thanks for your kindly assistance for my lash adjuster problem, but I
already fixed it by removing and collapsed it first then immersed to clean
diesel fuel and push it up and down to bleed air out.
With diesel fuel in it, it feels hardly to depress then I drop it into barel
after I completed valve train then I started the engine and the sounds is
like industrial sewing machine, no ticking at all.
Once again thanks for all.

Regards,
Harijanto

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 12:20 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEED INFO


>> Harijanto,  I like your analogy of the lifter noise as "satan", it has
>> certainly been an irritant to many.  The most likely cause is
>> air in the lifter.  One of the causes can be over fill of the oil. As
>> the crank cuts through the oil it can cause it to foam with little air
>> bubbles.  The other end of the scale is oil level to low an sump will
pick
>up
>> some air on hard cornering etc.   Most of the time if you rev the engine
>to
>> about 3500 to> 4000 rpm and slowly bring it down a couple of times will
>> allow the air to escape the lifters.
>>
>> Bob
>
>One addition to Bob's comments:  dirty oil can cause the ticking as well -
>if the lash adjusters get clogged.  For a number of reasons, I'm pretty
sure
>that was my problem last year (it was bad enough that I was embarrassed to
>go through drive-thrus and quiet neighborhoods), and I haven't had it come
>back other than about 3-4 times in the last year.  Those few times were
>after the car had been sitting for a day or two, it was cold outside, and I
>had just started it.  Each of those times, it went away promptly when I
>raised the revs over 2500RPM.  My understanding is that that is normal for
>our cars occasionally.  Perhaps you should try fuel injector/valve cleaner
>additive in your next tank of gas...  Also, make sure your oil and filter
>are clean and changed at least every 3000mi.  Also, like Bob said, don't
>over- or under-fill your oil, either, as this can cause satan to appear:)
>
>--Erik
>
>------                                             ----------
>Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
>'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          68,000 mi
>Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
>Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
>K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
>Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
>***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
>   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 11:32:28 EDT
From: MerisaPDX@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Transmission Needed

I am in need of a automatic transmission for my 1991 RT 24 valve non-turbo. 
I have tried the usual sources and have been given the usual "we have one
that should work". 

If anyone knows of a reptable source for a transmission for my car which is
the correct one, (i.e.: not one out of a Galant), please let me know.

Thanks

Merrisa

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 19:00:53 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin:  Team3S Search Page is UP!

Hey dudes and dudettes,

We have a beta version of a Search Page up for those of you who are
looking for answers.  Please send your feedback to me on how it's
working (or what isn't).  It's just a first effort, and other
members are still working on other options, but this will do for
now.  I tried a few things with it and it works pretty well.  It has
found data on all 177 pages of the Team3S website.  Check it out for
yourself.  You can access it from the Team3S Home Page, or from the
Archives Page.   www.stealth-3000gt.st

Best,

Forrest
for the Admin



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #101
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