team3s
Tuesday, April 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number
100
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 10:03:27 -0400
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Throttle bodie/Intake manifold
Hello everyone, I am new to
the list.
I have a bored out throttle body from RC Engineering. RC
takes a stock throttle
body, bores out the inner diameter and fits a larger
throttle plate. I'm not sure
of their exact process, but I believe the
inner diameter is bored 4mm over stock -
stock being 60 mm if I'm not
mistaken. This may not sound like much, but that 4mm
overbore gives
about a 13% increase in area, which I can assume will allow 13% more
airflow
(someone correct me if I'm wrong there).
Anyway, since it's a stock unit,
the install is a snap, and it's one of those
"sleeper" parts that
even a mechanic can't notice. Important for me since I did it
when my car was
still under warranty. Also, I was concerned that I'd have to
machine my
intake plenum where the throttle body bolts up, but I did not.
Apparently,
the plenum is a little larger than the throttle body to start with.
I
think RC charges about $150 for the machine work - you supply the throttle
body (or
possibly pay a core fee). They do good work and I had a pretty
fast turnaround.
I've never had my car dyno'ed, and I don't drag race it
(I can't drive in a straight
line).
Since I didn't have any baseline
numbers, I can't say how much it increased my HP,
but I did notice a
"seat of the pants" improvement - especially throttle
response.
I had previously had my plenum & manifold ExtrudeHoned, so
I would think that the
oversized throttle body would be a good match with
that.
Hope this helps.
Steve Lasher
92 VR-4
>
Hi
>
> Have any of you upgraded to a bigger throttle body and/or
used a custom
> made/modified intake manifold. Please describe
modification, price and if
> there was any performance
gain.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mikael Akesson, Done with the
"no turbos" mod :)
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 08:35:23 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical connection
Hi Everyone...
I havn't posted much,
but I have been lurking in the background :) I had
some turbo
work done and as I was replacing the rear turbo, I noticed an
electrical
connection the was not connected. It is part of the wiring
harness that
connect to the oil pressure sensor, oil level switch and
(according to the
electrical manual) a connection to a power steering
pressure switch.
For the life of me, I cannot find where the power steering
pressure
connection is...I'm not even sure that it has a connection
(wishful
thinking). If somebody gets a chance, or already has there car
up on jack
stands, could you look and see where that wire connects too?
The area is
just to the left of the rear turbo (when underneath the
car).
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:45:06 -0400
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Electrical connection
Jeffrey,
It's on the top of the P/S pump
right where the lines go in. It's kinda
tough to get to.
Dan
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jeffrey Young
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 10:35 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Electrical connection
Hi Everyone...
I havn't
posted much, but I have been lurking in the background :) I
had
some turbo work done and as I was replacing the rear turbo, I noticed
an
electrical connection the was not connected. It is part of the
wiring
harness that connect to the oil pressure sensor, oil level switch
and
(according to the electrical manual) a connection to a power
steering
pressure switch. For the life of me, I cannot find where the
power steering
pressure connection is...I'm not even sure that it has a
connection (wishful
thinking). If somebody gets a chance, or already
has there car up on jack
stands, could you look and see where that wire
connects too? The area is
just to the left of the rear turbo (when
underneath the car).
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 08:45:28 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How do you set the time?
Tim,
Press and hold the
"disp" (display) button. The clock will began to
flash.
then use the tune up and tune down buttons to change the hours or
minutes.
Press the display button again (briefly) to complete the
process.
JAT
'92 VR-4
Tim DeKeyser wrote:
> Ok
ok,
>
> I have had my car for 2 years now, and I do not know how to
set the time on
> the stock stereo. Please advise!
>
>
Tim
> '91 Stealth TT
> Dallas, TX
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 21:42:42 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Viper Pilot episode available only for a short time
-
-----Original Message-----From: Vineet Singh
<
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
>I
am going to have to remove the files that contain the
"viper
pilot"
>episode soon. They take up too much space, and
I have to pay for it
per
>month (found that out this week :)
>So,
if you want to download them, for about a week longer, they
will
still
>be available at
>
http://go.to/vipervideo>After that, I
may only leave the portions that have stealth's in
them, if
>that. They
are pretty cool, so even if you watch only one, it's all
worth
it
>:)
Hey, Vineet,
They ARE pretty cool, so we're going
to put them up on the Team3S
website; they will be listed under Member Sites
in the FAQ pages,
with your name on it... Thanks for the
heads-up... I'll ask Geoff
to download them
tonight.
Regards,
Forrest
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 10:17:28 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuilding front wheel hubs.
I'm not even sure you can get
the parts seperately, but you may want to get the
whole hub since it is
relatively inexpensive. For a '91 VR4, the whole hub
costs about $55
each (from Norco Mitsu). Most likely, it is the same part for
all
models and years. It looks new, but I suppose it could be a rebuilt.
For
comparison, the price of parts for the rear was nearly the same.
Over $40 (full
list price though) for inner and outer bearings, and a
seal. Anti-sway bar
bushings are about $1.50 each.
Good
luck,
Ken
> I am planning to "rebuild" my front wheel
hubs, and change out the anti-sway
> bar bushings. I have some
questions.
> 1. Has anybody torn apart the front wheel hubs before? Is
there any
> documentation of this?
> 2. Can the wheel bearings be
cleaned and re-packed with grease, or do they
> have to be replaced? Are
the oil seals difficult to remove/install?
> 3. I'm getting vibration from
the suspension, and since i'm going to be in
> there, what
bushings/seals/rubber seats should I replace? The car is a 93'
> and i'm
sure the Florida heat has gotten to some of the bushings. The
> vibration
is similar to having a wheel out of balance, but all 4 wheels were
>
recently re-balanced.
> 4. Rich Merrit reccomended (for the track)
removing the rotor backing plates
> for open-track racing. Can these be
left off permanently for street driving?
> Or, will this allow dust and
dirt to get in where they shouldn't?
- --
If you're not the lead car,
your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:57:40 -0700
From: "Mohler,Anissa" <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Gauge
Well... at a mere 65,000 miles the fuel gauge on my
VR-4 gave up the ghost and
stopped working on the way home yesterday. I've
never had that happen on any car
before, not even the much older and more
abused Stealth RT/TT I had a couple
years ago.
Symptoms:
Gauge
appeared stuck at 3/16ths of a tank for a day or two.
Then on the way home
from work yesterday the fuel light comes on with gauge
still at 3/16ths of a
tank. So I fill it and get 18.4Gal in (on a 20 gallon tank
this is pretty
close to empty).
Then I get back in the car, start it and watch the needle
slowly approach 1/2
tank, then dive to the big E. The needle pretty much
stays below E now. It only
sometimes moves up randomly, then down
again.
Is this a common problem? I suspect it won't be easy to
fix.
Thanks!
Nissa
95 VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 11:11:51 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Gauge
The trick is to find what went bad. In most
cases it is the sending unit and
not the gauge, fuse, or wiring. This
might be a good time to upgrade your fuel
pump and sending unit to see if
that fixes the problem.
Good luck,
Ken
> Well... at a mere
65,000 miles the fuel gauge on my VR-4 gave up the ghost and
> stopped
working on the way home yesterday. I've never had that happen on any car
>
before, not even the much older and more abused Stealth RT/TT I had a
couple
> years ago.
>
> Symptoms:
>
> Gauge
appeared stuck at 3/16ths of a tank for a day or two.
> Then on the way
home from work yesterday the fuel light comes on with gauge
> still at
3/16ths of a tank. So I fill it and get 18.4Gal in (on a 20 gallon tank
>
this is pretty close to empty).
> Then I get back in the car, start it and
watch the needle slowly approach 1/2
> tank, then dive to the big E. The
needle pretty much stays below E now. It only
> sometimes moves up
randomly, then down again.
>
> Is this a common problem? I suspect
it won't be easy to fix.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view
never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 14:01:10 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler" <
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL Failed High Speed Emissions Test
I can't believe
it: I failed the emissions (I/M) portion of my
Texas State Inspection
yesterday on my 1994 3000gt SL.
I haven't had it inspected since I bought it
last June. It
failed the high rpm test twice:
HC (ppm):
Standard should be 220, mine was 239
CO (%) :
Standard should be 1.20, mine was 1.57.
RPM: 2421
It did fine on the
low speed emissions test:
HC (ppm) : Standard should be 220 again
and mine was 92
at 696rpm.
CO (%) : Standard should be 1.20
again and mine was 0.17
at 696rpm.
It has 68,000 miles on it and has
NOT had the 60,000 mile tune up
(shame on me, I know). I guess I will
start with that myself:
I should be able to at least do the plugs and air
filter and gas
filter myself, I assume it has a distributor rotor and cap
or
something similar to it anyway.
Will this be enough?
Does
anyone know what could be making it run rich at higher rpms?
Dirty
plugs?
Does anyone know if 239 is far off from 220 HC ppm or if
1.57% is
far off from 1.20% CO?
I would think this non-turbo car
should
be easy to tune up since I already had the timing belt done and
am
not going to mess with the water pump. I did find the faqs on the
list:
that will help a lot. Thanks ahead for your
input.
Bob
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 14:11:28 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL Failed High Speed Emissions Test
New plugs and
wires could help (sorry...no distributor)..you may also have
to change your
O2 sensors.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth-
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Jerome Mengler
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSent:
Monday, April 03, 2000 7:01 AM
Subject: Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL Failed High
Speed Emissions Test
I can't believe it: I failed the emissions (I/M)
portion of my
Texas State Inspection yesterday on my 1994 3000gt SL.
I
haven't had it inspected since I bought it last June. It
failed the high rpm
test twice:
HC (ppm): Standard should be 220, mine was
239
CO (%) : Standard should be 1.20, mine was
1.57.
RPM: 2421
It did fine on the low speed emissions test:
HC
(ppm) : Standard should be 220 again and mine was 92
at
696rpm.
CO (%) : Standard should be 1.20 again and mine was
0.17
at 696rpm.
It has 68,000 miles on it and has NOT had the 60,000
mile tune up
(shame on me, I know). I guess I will start with that
myself:
I should be able to at least do the plugs and air filter and
gas
filter myself, I assume it has a distributor rotor and cap
or
something similar to it anyway.
Will this be enough?
Does
anyone know what could be making it run rich at higher rpms?
Dirty
plugs?
Does anyone know if 239 is far off from 220 HC ppm or if
1.57% is
far off from 1.20% CO?
I would think this non-turbo car
should
be easy to tune up since I already had the timing belt done and
am
not going to mess with the water pump. I did find the faqs on the
list:
that will help a lot. Thanks ahead for your
input.
Bob
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 23:43:32 EDT
From:
Topofwrld1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
1994 3000gt SL Failed High Speed Emissions Test
In a message dated
04/03/2000 2:02:49 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
RMENGLER@statoil.com
writes:
<< I can't believe it: I failed the emissions (I/M) portion
of my
Texas State Inspection yesterday on my 1994 3000gt SL.
I haven't had
it inspected since I bought it last June. It
failed the high rpm test
twice:
>>
When you take it back for the re-inspection,
make sure the engine and cat are
warmed up. Also give it a fresh oil
change before the re-inspection.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 00:20:30 EDT
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Rebuilding front wheel hubs.
In a message dated 00-04-02 15:08:06 EDT,
you write:
<< 3. I'm getting vibration from the suspension, and
since i'm going to be in
there, what bushings/seals/rubber seats should I
replace? The car is a 93'
and i'm sure the Florida heat has gotten to some of
the bushings. The
vibration is similar to having a wheel out of balance, but
all 4 wheels were
recently re-balanced. >>
You might check for a
bent rim or two. I had some pretty annoying vibration
at higway speeds and
it ended up being two slightly out of round stock rims.
Discovered this when
I was having new tires match mounted awhile back (match
mounting is lining
up the "out of roundness" of the rim with the "out of
roundness" of the tire so the two of them cancel). The rims had no
visible
damage other than the normal scrapes but the machine that checks the
rim
found two of my rims out of round by .08". Solution was a set of
aftermarket
rims - car is glass smooth up to 100 mph now. (haven't had it
any faster)
Oh yeah - I borrowed a dial indicator from a buddy and found
my left front
wheel hub had a "wobble" of .001". I bought
some stainless steel shim stock
and placed a shim between the rotor and hub
to correct this - it seems to
work but I should probably buy a new hub,
though...
Paul Klusman
'91 VR4 w/ 80k mi
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 21:47:36 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Valve Covers
Is it necessary to drain the oil
and/or the
coolant when you
remove the valve covers?
Thanks,
-
--Errin
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 00:03:55 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Valve Covers
The only coolant you will lose is from removing
the throttle body.
Just don't drop dirt into the motor and you shouldn't
have to change oil.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Errin Humphrey
Sent: Monday, April 03, 2000 11:48 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Valve Covers
Is it necessary to drain the
oil
and/or the coolant when you
remove the valve
covers?
Thanks,
- --Errin
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:16:58 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: VR-4
weight
Hi
As you may know I have Ground control kit on my car
right now, actually the
ground control is a cool system and an good
alternative to lowering springs
but when it comes to handling (together with
stock shocks) it's not that
good.
I have decided to get something
"real" and have contacted a suspension
specialist that normally
only work on race cars (built the winning
Scandinavian GT series Viper). He
will build a custom kit based on parts
from Leda (
http://www.leda.com).
Yesterday we had the
car on scales and he also measured angles and stuff.
I thought that the
weights could be interesting for you guys.
The weight is with me (65kg)
sitting in the driver seat and the battery
relocated to the trunk (and we
added 9 kg to compensate for my "no turbos"
mod) The car is a 93
VR-4.
Weight front: 940 kg
Weight rear: 770 kg
The left side
weights 31 kg more than the right (with me sitting on the
left)
This
is a very front heavy car, not ideal for track racing but for
drag
racing/acceleration with AWD it's very close to ideal if the suspension
it
set right.
Hope it's of some use.
BTW If you are interested
in a ground control kit that have been used for
less than 500 miles then let
me know privately.
Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 01:47:25 -0700
From: "Jose Soriano" <
amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 weight
What is your complaint with the Ground Control
Adjustable coilovers??? I
have them on my car and I find them very good. You
can custom order spring
rates if you find the ones they gave you not suited
for your driving style.
Many racers use GC kit in many different types of
cars. They are well known
in the local racing circle. I have a set on my
Stealth as well as my 240z
race only car.
If you want higher quality
shocks/springs, you can get the Tien setup. Comes
with double springs, shocks
(or struts), and pillow ball mounts. The fronts
even have camber and caster
adjustments on the pillow ball mount.
Jose Soriano
visit my Stealth
site at
www.3si.org/amahoser-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Åkesson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "Team3S
list" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 04, 2000 12:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 weight
>
Hi
>
> As you may know I have Ground control kit on my car right
now, actually
the
> ground control is a cool system and an good
alternative to lowering
springs
> but when it comes to handling
(together with stock shocks) it's not that
> good.
>
> I have
decided to get something "real" and have contacted a
suspension
> specialist that normally only work on race cars (built the
winning
> Scandinavian GT series Viper). He will build a custom kit based
on parts
> from Leda (
http://www.leda.com).
>
> Yesterday
we had the car on scales and he also measured angles and stuff.
>
>
I thought that the weights could be interesting for you guys.
>
>
The weight is with me (65kg) sitting in the driver seat and the battery
>
relocated to the trunk (and we added 9 kg to compensate for my "no
turbos"
> mod) The car is a 93 VR-4.
>
> Weight front:
940 kg
> Weight rear: 770 kg
>
> The left side weights 31 kg
more than the right (with me sitting on the
> left)
>
> This
is a very front heavy car, not ideal for track racing but for drag
>
racing/acceleration with AWD it's very close to ideal if the suspension
it
> set right.
>
> Hope it's of some use.
>
> BTW
If you are interested in a ground control kit that have been used for
>
less than 500 miles then let me know privately.
>
> Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu>
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 11:33:20 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4
weight
Hi
Maybe I was a bit unclear.. There's absolutely nothing
wrong with ground
control it's the combo GC/stock shocks/struts that's not
good enough (IMHO).
I feel that the GC springs handle the car good and it
feels very solid and
stiff but when you go over some sort of bump you feel
that the stock shock
can't dampen the motion upwards. After installing the GC
kit and lowered it
to the level I want I feel that the shocks aren't in their
optimum "zone"
anymore, you have one fourth of travel
"down" and three fourth of travel
"upwards". I want a
shorter shock that can have more equal play between up
and down
motions.
When you buy the GC kit you get what you pay for... It's a good
alternative
to lowering springs but it's not the "real
thing".
/Mikael Akesson
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Jose Soriano <
amahoser@linkline.com>
What is
your complaint with the Ground Control Adjustable coilovers??? I
have them on
my car and I find them very good. You can custom order spring
rates if you
find the ones they gave you not suited for your driving style.
Many racers
use GC kit in many different types of cars. They are well known
in the local
racing circle. I have a set on my Stealth as well as my 240z
race only
car.
If you want higher quality shocks/springs, you can get the Tien
setup. Comes
with double springs, shocks (or struts), and pillow ball mounts.
The fronts
even have camber and caster adjustments on the pillow ball
mount.
Jose Soriano
visit my Stealth site at
www.3si.org/amahoser-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mikael Åkesson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
>
Hi
>
> As you may know I have Ground control kit on my car right
now, actually
the
> ground control is a cool system and an good
alternative to lowering
springs
> but when it comes to handling
(together with stock shocks) it's not that
> good.
>
> I have
decided to get something "real" and have contacted a
suspension
> specialist that normally only work on race cars (built the
winning
> Scandinavian GT series Viper). He will build a custom kit based
on parts
> from Leda (
http://www.leda.com).
>
> Yesterday
we had the car on scales and he also measured angles and stuff.
>
>
I thought that the weights could be interesting for you guys.
>
>
The weight is with me (65kg) sitting in the driver seat and the battery
>
relocated to the trunk (and we added 9 kg to compensate for my "no
turbos"
> mod) The car is a 93 VR-4.
>
> Weight front:
940 kg
> Weight rear: 770 kg
>
> The left side weights 31 kg
more than the right (with me sitting on the
> left)
>
> This
is a very front heavy car, not ideal for track racing but for drag
>
racing/acceleration with AWD it's very close to ideal if the suspension
it
> set right.
>
> Hope it's of some use.
>
> BTW
If you are interested in a ground control kit that have been used for
>
less than 500 miles then let me know privately.
>
> Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu>
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:50:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve Covers
> Is it necessary to drain the oil
> and/or
the coolant when you
> remove the valve covers?
No, absolutely
not
> The only coolant you will lose is from removing the throttle
body.
You don't have to remove the TB to remove the valve covers. Even if
you do,
the water line can be connected to it, no
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:32:52 -0400
From: "Bob_Rand" <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 weight
I have the ground control also, with stock struts. I
am not a suspension
expert so have made my choice based on the results of
others. I only have
one complaint about the handling on my GC
Suspension. When I am on a wavy
or road with dips the front end starts
to bounce up and down way to much.
Other than that one issue they are
fine. If I use the sport setting the
bouncing is reduced greatly.
However; my feeling is that it is because of
the design of the ground control
system. They do not make use of the upper
spring perch so the car
basically is allowed to just bounce on the spring
with only the strut
offering any resistance for upward travel.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Jose Soriano <
amahoser@linkline.com>
To: Mikael
Åkesson <
vr4@bahnhof.se>; Team3S
list <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 04, 2000 4:47 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4
weight
> What is your complaint with the Ground Control Adjustable
coilovers??? I
> have them on my car and I find them very good. You can
custom order spring
> rates if you find the ones they gave you not suited
for your driving
style.
> Many racers use GC kit in many different
types of cars. They are well
known
> in the local racing circle. I have
a set on my Stealth as well as my 240z
> race only car.
>
> If
you want higher quality shocks/springs, you can get the Tien
setup.
Comes
> with double springs, shocks (or struts), and pillow ball
mounts. The
fronts
> even have camber and caster adjustments on the
pillow ball mount.
>
> Jose Soriano
> visit my Stealth site
at
>
www.3si.org/amahoser>
>
>
>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mikael Åkesson"
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
> To:
"Team3S list" <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 12:16 AM
> Subject: Team3S: VR-4
weight
>
>
> > Hi
> >
> > As you may know
I have Ground control kit on my car right now, actually
> the
> >
ground control is a cool system and an good alternative to lowering
>
springs
> > but when it comes to handling (together with stock shocks)
it's not that
> > good.
> >
> > I have decided to get
something "real" and have contacted a suspension
> >
specialist that normally only work on race cars (built the winning
> >
Scandinavian GT series Viper). He will build a custom kit based on parts
>
> from Leda (
http://www.leda.com).
>
>
> > Yesterday we had the car on scales and he also measured angles
and
stuff.
> >
> > I thought that the weights could be
interesting for you guys.
> >
> > The weight is with me (65kg)
sitting in the driver seat and the battery
> > relocated to the trunk
(and we added 9 kg to compensate for my "no
turbos"
> >
mod) The car is a 93 VR-4.
> >
> > Weight front: 940
kg
> > Weight rear: 770 kg
> >
> > The left side
weights 31 kg more than the right (with me sitting on the
> >
left)
> >
> > This is a very front heavy car, not ideal for
track racing but for drag
> > racing/acceleration with AWD it's very
close to ideal if the suspension
it
> > set right.
>
>
> > Hope it's of some use.
> >
> > BTW If you
are interested in a ground control kit that have been used
for
> >
less than 500 miles then let me know privately.
> >
> > Mikael
Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu>
>
> >
> >
> > ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 08:41:41 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR-4 weight
> They do not make use of the upper spring perch
so the car
> basically is allowed to just bounce on the spring
with
> only the strut offering any resistance for upward
travel.
Isn't that exactly how any suspension works? I haven't seen
the GC kit yet, but doesn't the spring provide most of the "rebound"
and the strut provides the damping? What does the stock suspension do
differently?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 Apr 2000 10:05:06 -0400
From: "Bob_Rand" <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 weight
The stock system has the spring under compression between
the upper and
lower spring pearch. The spring is always under a neg. or
pos. load, or
pushing and pulling action. With the GC the spring only
sits and waits for
downward force. As the car moves up the spring can slide
freely up the strut
if it wants to.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: Team3S list
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, April 04, 2000 9:41 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4
weight
> > They do not make use of the upper spring perch so
the car
> > basically is allowed to just bounce on the spring
with
> > only the strut offering any resistance for upward
travel.
>
> Isn't that exactly how any suspension works? I
haven't seen the GC kit
yet, but doesn't the spring provide most of the
"rebound" and the strut
provides the damping? What does the
stock suspension do differently?
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #100
*********************