team3s
Monday, April 3
2000
Volume 01 : Number
099
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 13:06:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogger
John,
> Is Technomotive still in
business?? I've written them MANY times and
> got no
response.
You may call Buschur Racing as they sell the Datalogger too.
Note that Todd
Day who made the software doesn't have a lot if any interest
in this stuff
and almost nobody had any contact to him since weeks or more :(
This is not
good but we can live with what we have. I know people who are
working on an
adaption for the software that can be easiyl improved. Too bad
that there is
a lot knowledge behind this thing !!!
> I've been
having intermittant overheating problems at RoadCourses and it
> seems to
occur when I'm in 2nd gear at high RPM. ie heal-toe into 2nd
> at a
turn to achieve max acceleration past apex into the straight away.
> I
think I'm running lean or the water pump (or somthing else)
doesn't
> like the sudden increase in RPM (near redline).
My tip
would also be the pump or at leat a low coolant level with a defect
coolant
level sensor. But I'm sure you checked this. Also air in the system
would
cause such problems.
> I want to collect data to help me run faster
lap times and I think the
> TMO datalogger will do that as well as help
find the exact cause of the
> overheating.
Well, you can only log
the coolant and intake temp then. I dunno if this
helps because I cannot see
any information (like timing and fuel) that would
point to your problem. But
it is always possible that you run in a danger
zone due to the ineffiecient
turbos and too much heat that can't go away.
> Can I collect speed,
steering angle, brake pressure, G's and stuff like
> that
also??
No, the ECU doesn't need to know that infromation so it's not
available at
the port.
> I took a picture of my data port and it
physically looks the same as in
> the pic at the TMO site. But mine
has MANY more pins. Will the TMO
> work with that many
pins??? 1993 Stealth Twin Turbo
I can't see a difference
!
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 11:50:34 -0400
From: Del A Kolasinski <
pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Pedal Engagment Point
Recently when switching from an RPS
Turbo Clutch, to a Broward 6-Puck
Disk with an RPS pressure plate, the
engagment point moved higher up on
the clutch pedal. Not a lot, but
just high enough where drag race
launching and shifting has become more
difficult a task than it used to
be. So is there any (easy) method of
adjusting the pedals engagment
point. If it makes a difference the car
is a '91
VR4.
Thanks,
Del
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE
PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet
Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software,
visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 19:54:01 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Throttle
bodie/Intake manifold
Hi
Have any of you upgraded to a bigger
throttle body and/or used a custom
made/modified intake manifold. Please
describe modification, price and if
there was any performance
gain.
Thanks,
Mikael Akesson, Done with the "no turbos"
mod :)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 14:56:32 EDT
From:
Raye143@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Can i get
off this mailing list?
Thanks
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 14:04:11 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Viper Pilot episode available only for a short time
I am going to
have to remove the files that contain the "viper pilot"
episode
soon. They take up too much space, and I have to pay for it per
month (found
that out this week :)
So, if you want to download them, for about a week
longer, they will still
be available at
http://go.to/vipervideoAfter that, I
may only leave the portions that have stealth's in them, if
that. They are
pretty cool, so even if you watch only one, it's all worth it
:)
(I
had to remove the Real Media versions due to similar reasons, plus
they
seemed to be not as popular anyway)
Thanks!
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 15:04:57 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rebuilding front wheel hubs.
I am planning to "rebuild" my
front wheel hubs, and change out the anti-sway
bar bushings. I have some
questions.
1. Has anybody torn apart the front wheel hubs before? Is there
any
documentation of this?
2. Can the wheel bearings be cleaned and
re-packed with grease, or do they
have to be replaced? Are the oil seals
difficult to remove/install?
3. I'm getting vibration from the suspension,
and since i'm going to be in
there, what bushings/seals/rubber seats should I
replace? The car is a 93'
and i'm sure the Florida heat has gotten to some of
the bushings. The
vibration is similar to having a wheel out of balance, but
all 4 wheels were
recently re-balanced.
4. Rich Merrit reccomended (for
the track) removing the rotor backing plates
for open-track racing. Can these
be left off permanently for street driving?
Or, will this allow dust and dirt
to get in where they shouldn't?
Thanks in
advance!
Matt
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 16:37:17 -0700
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: viper
vids now mirrored
Ok. I've mirrored the vids so they can stay online.
http://elguapo.penguinpowered.com/vipervids/I'll
put up an HTML layout page later, but I've got other work to do.
-
------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
- --
http://gulajs.resnet.jmu.edu-
------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 23:27:18 +0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Speaking of Datalogger
If anyone has one for
sale, second hand, I'm interested.
Henri
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:23:28 EDT
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Rims
update
Okay sorry for being a hassle........ I should have pics
posted in a few
days of my rims........
:
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 Apr 2000 18:23:12 -0700
From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: mild AWD binding/resistance
fellow owners:
Lately I've
noticed my stealth is a little reluctant in hard turns in
parking lots,
etc. The only feeling I can really compare it to is
driving my pickup
truck on dry pavement in 4WD (don't worry, I only did
this once to test
it!). You know the feeling, when there is a bit more
resistance on the
steering wheel, a bit more noise, and a bit more of a
drag feeling in
general.
I checked the transfer fluid level and everything seems
perfectly
normal. The fluid was just changed < 10,000 miles
ago. I'm a bit
stumped. Is this just something I'm only noticing
now because the
streets in Seattle are dry for the first time in months, or
should I be
concerned that all is not well in the transfer case
innards? It seems
to resist more when I'm coasting in a hard turn. When
I apply a bit of
throttle, its much happier but there is still more
resistance than I
remember in the past.
Thanks,
Dave
'91
R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 Apr 2000 21:29:01 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo Swappin' Fun
***A Retrospective***
I finally got
the turbos removed yesterday! Woohooo!
Thanks to everyone who offered
me their expert advice!
I couldn't have done it without you.
:)
I did the whole job by myself using only hand tools
(no air tools)
and with a floor jack (no car lift). Yikes. :)
In case you're
interested, the reason I was having lots
of difficulty removing the front
turbo is because I needed
to unbolt and slide over the big bracket which
normally
bolts to the O2 housing. If you don't slide this
bracket
off of the studs, you cannot drop the turbo directly down.
The
service manual does not mention this.
As far as the rear turbo is
concerned, I didn't find it
very difficult to remove. The toughest part
was loosening
the bottom turbo-to-manifold bolts because you can't
get a
lot of leverage lying on your back. I used a long
extension, wobble
extension, and a 12" 1/2"-drive arm bar
for these "crazy"
nuts. :) As far as everything else, it all
seemed pretty
straightforward and easy. I had doused
everything the night before with
Liquid Wrench. Even
the rear heat shields seemed pretty simple, but I
guess it
helps that I have skinny forearms.
The toughest part of the
whole job? Trying to remove my
~stinking~ custom dual exhaust system
(see earlier post).
Mike (the mechanic who made my exhaust system)
is
somewhere down in Mexico right now drinking tequila and
laughing his
ass off. (I'm not kidding here, folks)
I documented all the steps
that I took, and snapped a few
pictures here and there. If I get the
time, I'll put together a
webpage outlining the ~right~ way to do the install
with
helpful hints and required parts/tools.
So now my car is ready
for the new turbos. I wanted to
publicly say here that up until
recently I have been talking
with SL Turbo in Sweden about being the first in
the U.S.
to test the new 18T turbocharger upgrade for our cars.
Currently,
I think I am going to stick with the 15G's because
of the extra mods entailed
by the 18T turbos. Chopping and
fitting the rear IC pipe, and grinding
down the front engine
mount and plenum mount does not bother me.
Modifying
the rear oil feed line (b/c line joint is incompatible)
and
possibly the water line does bother me. If there were
pre-
fabbed replacements for these lines and/or this wasn't my
first turbo
upgrade, I would definitely go for the 18T's.
Also, my school schedule right
now dictates that I must
install the new turbos next weekend, and the 18T's
(unlike
the 15G's) would take several weeks to arrive.
PLEASE somebody
out there consider getting these turbos!
If you haven't looked at the rpm
lines which Jeff Lucius drew
on the flow maps to compare the 18T with the
15G, I can
email it your way. It's ~so~ clear from looking at it that
the
18T's are FAR superior to the 15G's. They can efficiently
hold
at least 1.4 bar all the way to redline with great spoolup
and efficient
boost all the way through the revs. In spite of
all the other
"huge" turbo setups out there for our car, this is
the one which
seems the perfect turbo for monstrous power
with excellent
streetability. I'd hate to see them go ignored
and untested here in the
States. I don't plan to stick with
15G's forever, so I know at least
one day I'll switch over
to them (unless something better comes along).
=)
Anyways, talk to you all later!
-
--Errin
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 Apr 2000 00:42:21 -0700
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wanted..stanic mechanic in SF-Bay Area
Wanted:
Someone to
remove then ship/reciece turbos from the upgrade, and then re-install
them on
our 95 VR4.
Mitsu wants an easy $1,000 for the labor.
Now
that in and of itself aint so bad, I dont have the time or will to do
it
myself like I would have a year ago...and I wanted to use the dealer,
because
should anything not get done perfectly..I have someone to complain to
about
'procedures' and such.
But if anyone in the SF-Bay area we all
know of, can do this 'by the book 14hr
job'..and do it right, with some
member backing _and_ cheaper enough than the
dealer to accept the risk..let
me know please.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 Apr 2000 07:33:54 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
mild AWD binding/resistance
Dave:
My 93 acted like that before
xfer case needed
changing due to gears worn/crunching away,
after all the
fluid had drained out due to a leak
which may or may not have been a
cracked
aluminum case.
I'd drain the xfer case, and see how
much
metalshavings are in there. If it is just superfine
dust thats
usually ok. If it is chunks etc then it
is grinding the gears/bearing
apart and could
lock up on you. Just bite bullet, have some
fresh
Redline Shockproof Heavy on hand to
refill it if it's ok, but check it by
draining it.
Jack Tertadian
David Margrave wrote:
>
stealth is a little reluctant in hard turns in
> parking lots.
compare it to
> driving pickup truck on dry pavement in 4WD
> there
is bit more resistance on steering wheel, bit more noise,
> and bit
more drag feeling in general.
> I checked transfer fluid level
>
normal, changed < 10,000 miles ago.
> should I be concerned about
transfer case innards?
> resists more when coasting in a hard turn.
apply
> throttle, is much happier but still more resistance
>
Dave '91 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #99
********************