team3s             Saturday, April 1 2000             Volume 01 : Number 097




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Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:59:06 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotor hub question..

More specifically, there will be fewer FULL threads making contact in your
lugnuts of you space out your wheels.

You'll be asking for stud/nut failure for sure.

:-----Original Message-----
:From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
:Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 4:00 AM
:To: Team3SI
:Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor hub question..
:
:
:> Can I go with a rotor with a thicker hub to clear the
:> brake calipers?  Need about 1/2 inch more.. is it
:> possible to find one?? any down side to this?? how
:> will the wheel studs hold up?
:
:Use a wheel spacer for this purpose .. or another  wheel. I
:had the same problem with the wheels availble here and
:therefore ended in a 3-piece OZ design where clearance could
:be adjusted. The stubs may become a problem with they are not
:long enough. Also there is more stress on them.
:
:Hope this helps a little,
:Roger
:93'3000GT TT
:
:
:***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:00:16 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotor hub question..

Just about any "real" race shop can obtain and install SAE racing studs.  I have
em on the front of our car, and theyre a dream to work with.

If you have the chance as well, get a deeper lugnut to use with them as well,
balance out the stresses across even more threads.

:-----Original Message-----
:From: George Kuo [mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
:Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 8:09 AM
:To: Team3SI
:Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor hub question..
:
:
:Thanx Roger!
:
:I'm worried about stress on the stock wheel studs
:too.. are there any aftermarket longer and stronger
:wheel studs?? If yes, where can I get my hands on
:some?
:
:George
:
:--- "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch> wrote:
:> > Can I go with a rotor with a thicker hub to clear
:> the
:> > brake calipers?  Need about 1/2 inch more.. is it
:> > possible to find one?? any down side to this?? how
:> > will the wheel studs hold up?
:>
:> Use a wheel spacer for this purpose .. or another
:> wheel. I had the same problem with the wheels
:> availble here and therefore ended in a 3-piece OZ
:> design where clearance could be adjusted. The stubs
:> may become a problem with they are not long enough.
:> Also there is more stress on them.
:>
:> Hope this helps a little,
:> Roger
:> 93'3000GT TT
:>
:>
:> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:>
:
:__________________________________________________
:Do You Yahoo!?
:Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
:http://im.yahoo.com
:
:***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:36:58 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rotor hub question..

> Can I go with a rotor with a thicker hub to clear the
> brake calipers?  Need about 1/2 inch more.. is it
> possible to find one?? any down side to this?? how
> will the wheel studs hold up?

This is the solution that the Mov'it big brake upgrade kit uses
(http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html). They supply 2-piece rotors.  The
hats can be thicker to push the wheel out further.  This solution will be a lot
better for track enthusiasts than using spacers.  Unfortunately, Mov'it won't
sell parts (hats, rotors, etc) seperately.

KVR (http://www.kvrperformance.com) is also now offering 2-piece rotors.  Brad
Bedell is investigating these for his Big Red brake kits.  You may want to check
with KVR to see if they can provide thicker hats on on otherwise stock-sized
rotor.  Lots of folks would be interested in this info, so please post if you
obtain any.

Definitely take Geoff's advice though and go with stronger & longer studs and
maybe deeper lug nuts too.  Replacing the studs should be easy (I have a set of
new front hubs in the garage that I've studied).  You should be able to press
the studs out or knock them out with a hammer.  Then insert the new ones, put on
a lug nut (wahsers might be needed), tighten it to pull the stud in 'home'.  Let
us know if you find a source for studs too, and their sizes.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 18:00:34 EST
From: Jkmonnin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: team3s V1 #95

One trick to passing emmisions test is to make sure your car is completly
warmed up before going to inspection station.  When I went to have my
insection done early Saturday morning I saw several irrate people with new
cars that did not pass.  Most of these people had gotten up and driven
straight to the insspection station to beat the rush.   The catalytic
converters work better when hot (that is why they are so close to turbos). 
The engine itself seems to burn cleaner when warmed up.    I drove my My 71
Leman's  revved out in secpond gear driving to the inspection station to get
it good and hot. It passed the dyno test with flying colors( but to much
lower standards) and the dyno operators even commented on how clean the car
was for its age.  If your car was warmed up good before the test then you
have other problems.

>  From: "Robert Jerome Mengler" <RMENGLER@statoil.com>
>  I can't believe it: I failed the emissions (I/M) portion of my
> Texas State Inspection yesterday on my 1994 3000gt SL.


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 16:50:19 -0700 (MST)
From: JAMEYCHAR@webtv.net (JAMEY BLOCK)
Subject: Team3S: OIL pressure

    Can anyone tell me if my oil pressure should drop way low like 2
marks from the bottom an also with the K&N air filter should the idle be
a little higher to?? Also I just installed a new exhaust kept everthing
but made it a little straighter Sounds nice

         Jamey 92 STEALTH  ES
            (REBUILT)


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 00:54:05 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: OIL pressure

- -----Original Message-----From: JAMEY BLOCK <JAMEYCHAR@webtv.net>

>    Can anyone tell me if my oil pressure should drop way low like
2
>marks from the bottom an also with the K&N air filter should the
idle be
>a little higher too?? -------snip--------

If you are at idle, 2 'marks' or so sounds fine.  (I think mine is 2
or a bit higher).  But the important indication is where it goes
when you are at speed, with high revs.  If that indicator is just
below that icon near the top, you're OK.  But if it's still way low,
you may have oil pump problems.  (Or a faulty gauge).

When you installed the K&N, if you disconnected the battery, the ECU
has to relearn it's new parameters when you hook it back up.  And it
should reset to around 750 rpm at idle after a while.  If you didn't
disconnect the battery, I guess it's possible that the idle might be
somewhat higher.  For my K&N install, I removed the negative, as per
recommended procedure, and when I hooked it back up, I think it did
race a bit...  But it "learned" quickly to compensate for the larger
volume of intake air, and came back to 750 rpm.  It's been there
ever since.  Just give yours a few miles, and if it's still idling
higher, disconnect the battery and leave it that way for 10 minutes.
When you hook it back up, within a few dozen miles (I've heard up to
150 miles), the ECU will 'learn', and the revs should come back to
the default 750.

Best,

Forrest



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:08:56 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: OIL pressure

Actually to "reset" your ECU after you have disconnected the battery you
should allow the vehicle to idle to normal operating temperature before you
drive it at all.  I think the service manual says about 5 minutes.  That
allows the ECU to learn the idle and warm-up parameters--parameters that do
not function above idle (like while driving off into the sunset!).  This also
allows the ECU to learn the default parameters for all sensors--parameters on
which all "adjustments" are made beyond idle.

Joe 91 TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:22:24 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Source for Getrag gears?

I may have found a possible source for Getrag gears.  Has anyone ever heard
of Presrite Corporation?  They are located in Cleveland, OH and according to
their website, they may gears for Getrag Gear.  Their website is
www.presrite.com.  Let me know if anyone has ever investigated Presrite.  If
not, I'll be happy to do it.

Joe 91TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 11:37:47 -0600
From: wizards <wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Source for Getrag gears?

If anyone knows anything about them or the possibility that they carry
parts for the Getrag, it would be Jack Tertadian ... AKA XWING .... I
think he's a member of this list, but if not his e-mail is:

xwing@execpc.com

Regards,

Greg
1994 Stealth R/T TT
Dark Blue Pearl


TrboDrvr@aol.com wrote:
>
> I may have found a possible source for Getrag gears.  Has anyone ever heard
> of Presrite Corporation?  They are located in Cleveland, OH and according to
> their website, they may gears for Getrag Gear.  Their website is
> www.presrite.com.  Let me know if anyone has ever investigated Presrite.  If
> not, I'll be happy to do it.
>
> Joe 91TT
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #97
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