team3s
Friday, March 31
2000
Volume 01 : Number
096
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:35:37 -0500
From: Lloyd Wihl <
lloyd@cae.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Professional
injector cleaning
Hi all,
Is there a way to tap into our fuel
lines in order to do a professional
injector cleaning? No place I checked
with seemed to have an adapter listed
for our cars, nor could they find a
place under the hood to inject their
cleaning fluid. Are we forced to use
less effective cleaners added to the
fuel tank? If so, is Redline any better
than Techron?
I know I could also remove the injectors and send them away
for testing,
cleaning and balancing. Would I have to drain the coolant first?
Is there a
place in the Northeast (or ideally, in Canada) that does this
service?
Thanks,
Lloyd Wihl
1993 RT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:55:32 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Replacement..
Can anyone recommend a non-dealer, GOOD
mechanic who will work the ext. warranty
to replce our turbos?
One
finally started screaming a little at last weekends AutoX
http://www.speedtoys.com/~danno/autox/32500/32500.html
for some stills and
video.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:12:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Steve Kuhn <
stpk@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost Question
I have 1994 Stealth TT
I installed VDO boost gauge
with tap into boost at Y pipe by throttle body. Only other mod is
K&N.
Here is what boost does: Initially it hits 12.5 PSI, then it
quickly falls to 9 psi by about 4000 RPM , by 5000 RPM it hits 7 PSI and holds
there til redline.
Is this normal, if not is this caused by boost
solenoid detecting knock? I use 93 octane and do not have noticeable
knock. Perfomance overall seems pretty good. According to my trusty
G-tech, 0-60 arrives in 5.1 seconds which is within normal range for a stock
car.
Am I losing boost? As FYI the gauge was last used in my
previous Talon and worked perfectly.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:20:10 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost Question
Nopers..thats normal.
Called
tiny-titty-turbo syndrome.
Sucks, but thats what makes a 4000lb car
QUICK..a small turbo that comes up
quickly, but then falls
flat.
Solution: Upgrade.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Steve Kuhn [
mailto:stpk@earthlink.net]
Sent:
Thursday, March 30, 2000 2:13 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Boost Question
I have 1994 Stealth TT
I installed VDO
boost gauge with tap into boost at Y pipe by throttle body.
Only other
mod is K&N.
Here is what boost does: Initially it hits 12.5 PSI, then
it quickly falls to 9
psi by about 4000 RPM , by 5000 RPM it hits 7 PSI and
holds there til redline.
Is this normal, if not is this caused by
boost solenoid detecting knock? I use
93 octane and do not have
noticeable knock. Perfomance overall seems pretty
good. According
to my trusty G-tech, 0-60 arrives in 5.1 seconds which is
within normal range
for a stock car.
Am I losing boost? As FYI the gauge was last used
in my previous Talon and
worked perfectly.
***Info:
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***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:50:42 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Boost Question
> Nopers..thats normal.
> Called
tiny-titty-turbo syndrome.
> Sucks, but thats what makes a 4000lb car
QUICK..a small turbo that comes up
> quickly, but then falls
flat.
It isn't really the turbos fault, it is mostly the lame design of
the stock boost control system. Getting a boost controller should help,
either a good electronic or one of the ball-restriction type manual controllers
will help hold more boost by keeping the wastegate closed closed when it doesn't
need to be open.
> Solution: Upgrade.
Yup, but not
neccessarily the turbos...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 17:55:47 -0800
From: "Browne, Troy E" <
troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lowering a Spyder?
Hi Josh,
I have one of these
too. The deal is that our Spyder's got a couple hundred
extra pounds of
weight in the back(with the top down) so you will need to go
with some
kind of adjustable spring setup like ground control coilovers or
something
similar. Straight RSR or Eibach's likely won't support the extra
weight
and will squat the rear. I'm surprised Matt hasn't replied to
this
as he has a Spyder too.
Hope this helps
Troy
96' Caracas
red Spyder
>Has anyone successfully lowered their vr-4
spyder? If so which springs and
>how does it now ride.
Thanks
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:14:47 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Swappin' Fun
*2nd attempt at posting this to the
list*
Hey y'all,
Well, thanks to all the help I received from you
guys,
I'm pretty far into my turbo swap project. Right now
I've done
everything except unbolt the turbos from
the manifolds, rear turbo from the
O2 housing, and the
oil and coolant lines.
Yes, I got the rear heat
shields off. It wasn't too bad
actually. You just have to ask
them nicely.
I can't believe I've even made it this far. =)
Here
come several questions I need help with:
1) Has anyone been able to
remove the front exhaust
manifold heat shield (the one which
"wraps" the exh.
manifold) without resorting to drastic
measures?
I want to get it ceramic coated to help reduce under-
hood
temperatures which really annoys me (in fact,
Miss December '99 listed it as
one of her pet peeves).
Problem is that it looks impossible to remove
without
unplugging the huge metal line into the air
conditioning
compressor. *Can I just unbolt this line, or do I
have
to drain the refrigerant fluid first? Is doing this a
pain?
2) What are the symptoms to look for that your oil
lines are
clogged and need replacing? I noticed that
there seems to be oil
leaking from my rear oil return
line where it attaches to the oil pan.
Does this tell
me anything significant about oil supply to my turbos
(or
is it just probably a leaky gasket)?
3) Has anyone been able to replace
the oil feed line
for the front turbo? People were saying here
recently
to replace your oil lines, and somebody (can't rmbr
who) told me
that one of the lines would need to be
replaced "by feel."
However, this feed line look totally
impossible to replace w/o removing the
alternator, air
cond. compressor, bracket, drive belt and tensioner.
Maybe
I should only replace the return lines? (the rear
feed line also looks
like a pain to mess with)
4) Which way will the rear O2 housing come
out?
>From the top or bottom?
5) I'm looking at things and
wondering, is it possible
to leave the rear turbo attached to the O2
housing
and remove both of them together? I'm thinking no.
6)
Two of the rear turbo bolts to the manifold don't
look that tough to get to:
the front and the passenger
side bolt (on the bottom). Then the third
bolt nearest
the firewall, I can hardly see it at all. How am I going
to
remove this? Will shouting help? I guess since I
already
got the heat shields off, I'm wondering if the worst is
behind
me. :)
7) I'd ~really~ appreciate some advice on good
bolt-
loosening techniques. I'm about to hit some of the real
nasty
turbo-to-manifold bolts, and some of the recent
bolts I've removed (e.g. EGR
pipe) were pretty uncoop-
erative and made me feel like the bolt head was
going
to break off. Can this happen? I broke a socket on
one
of those EGR pipe bolts, but breaking tools doesn't
bother me as much
as the idea of breaking off a bolt head
or a stud.
Anyways, I don't
know whether it's better to pull a little
bit at a time, or hang for a while
on the wrench, or just
do big yanks all at once, etc. I'm doing this
all by hand
here, folks. Also, I should use 1/2" drive with a big
arm
bar (whenever possible) to loosen these 14mm turbo-to-
manifold bolts,
right?
I appreciate the help!
- --Errin "i love the smell of
wd40 in the morning"
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:04:56 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor hub question..
Hi Team,
Can I go with a rotor with a
thicker hub to clear the
brake calipers? Need about 1/2 inch more.. is
it
possible to find one?? any down side to this?? how
will the wheel studs
hold up?
I will probably go to Porterfield to see if they
have
something for me.. but whould love to hear u
guys
1st..
Thanx!
George
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:10:54 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo Replacement..
Hi Jeff,
Yes. I've got first
hand experience. But I live in Pittsburgh and
don't do warranty
work. Cash only. Well, a few beers too.
I checked with the
guys at South Park Mitsu and the book says 4.5 hours
for the rear
turbo. It took me closer to 4 DAYS.
I wouldn't hesitate to
recommend McKeesRocks Dodge if Dale Cannister has
the time to do the
work. But I don't know if they do ext warranty
stuff.
Be of good
cheer
John
Mohler, Jeff wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend a
non-dealer, GOOD mechanic who will work the ext. warranty
> to replce our
turbos?
>
> One finally started screaming a little at last weekends
AutoX
>
>
http://www.speedtoys.com/~danno/autox/32500/32500.html
for some stills and
> video.
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes
& Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 01:48:15 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo Swappin' Fun
Hi Errin,
Congrats on your
progress.
Did I mention that a set of offset ratchet wenches is also
helpful??
Especially for the water lines.
[snip]
Errin Humphrey
wrote:
>
> I've done everything except unbolt the turbos from
the manifolds, rear turbo from the O2 housing, and the oil and coolant
lines.
- --->Now the hard part begins.....
> 1) Has anyone been
able to remove the front exhaust manifold heat shield (the one which
"wraps" the exh. manifold) without resorting to drastic
measures?
- --->The one towards the radiator comes off. But
fortunately I didn't
have to remove the one closest to the
engine.
> 2) What are the symptoms to look for that your oil lines are
clogged and need replacing?
- --> I looked at the oil ports in the turbo
and what I could see of the
oil line. Mine seemed fine so that's why I
have a set of lines I need
to return to the Mitsu part guy.
>
I noticed that there seems to be oil leaking from my rear oil return
line where it attaches to the oil pan. Does this tell me anything
significant about oil supply to my turbos (or is it just probably a leaky
gasket)?
- -->I'd say its a leaky gasket or not tightened properly OR no
gasket.
You'll find out why when you try to reconnect it upon
reassembly. I
must have dropped that one a zillion times cause the bolt
holes didn't
lineup.
> 4) Which way will the rear O2 housing
come out? From the top or bottom?
- -->I removed the turbo
bolts. What you are calling the O2 housing I
think is the Precat.
Anyhow it comes out from the bottom as does the
turbo. But I separated
mine. I didn't try to get them out as a whole.
If it can come out
together, that would make your life easier.
> 5) I'm looking at things
and wondering, is it possible to leave the rear turbo attached to the O2
housing and remove both of them together? I'm thinking no.
-
-->Don't know. I removed the bolts. See 4 above.
> 6)
Two of the rear turbo bolts to the manifold don't look that tough to get
to: the front and the passenger side bolt (on the bottom). Then the
third bolt nearest the firewall, I can hardly see it at all. How am
I going to remove this?
- --> I think that's the one to use the 1/4 air
ratchet on with a swivel.
I didn't have a wobble, but try one if you have
it. I'll look at my
video and see if I talked about that
one.
> Will shouting help? I guess since I already got the heat
shields off, I'm wondering if the worst is behind me. :)
- -->The
FUN has only just begun. The heat shield was foreplay.
(-:)
> 7) do big yanks all at once, etc. I'm doing this
all by hand
- --->Impact is better than slow torture.
>
--Errin "i love the smell of wd40 in the morning"
- --> Welcome
to the dirty fingernail club.
Be of good cheer
John
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes &
Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:59:55 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Turbo Swappin' Fun
> -----Original Message-----
> Here come
several questions I need help with:
> 2) What are the symptoms to
look for that your oil
> lines are clogged and need replacing? I
noticed that
> there seems to be oil leaking from my rear oil
return
> line where it attaches to the oil pan. Does this
tell
> me anything significant about oil supply to my turbos
> (or
is it just probably a leaky gasket)?
Look inside of them to see if there
is a sludgy builup or coking. Run
compressed air through them maybe, or
even some oil with some pressure
behind it.
The oil pan return line
points are notrious for leaking. Probably just a
bad gasket. Make
sure the surface is very smooth, true and clean before
remounting the return
pipe.
> 3) Has anyone been able to replace the oil feed line
>
for the front turbo? People were saying here recently
> to replace
your oil lines, and somebody (can't rmbr
> who) told me that one of the
lines would need to be
> replaced "by feel." However, this
feed line look totally
> impossible to replace w/o removing the
alternator, air
> cond. compressor, bracket, drive belt and
tensioner.
> Maybe I should only replace the return lines? (the
rear
> feed line also looks like a pain to mess with)
Both of them
are a PITA but the front one is worse IMO. You pretty much
have to
remove the accessories to pull it off on the front. The rear can
be
done without removing accessories.
Replace the return pipes
probably just because you can (if you have them)
and only replace the feed
lines if they are coked up. Mine were in perfect
condition
surprisingly, but I repalced them anyway, only because I had
new
ones.
> 4) Which way will the rear O2 housing come out?
>
>From the top or bottom?
Top.
> 5) I'm looking at things and
wondering, is it possible
> to leave the rear turbo attached to the O2
housing
> and remove both of them together? I'm thinking
no.
I don't think so but maybe. I did not do it that way.
Leave the O2 housing
on the secured turbo until you get the O2 sensor off,
then take off the rest
if the junk.
> 6) Two of the rear turbo
bolts to the manifold don't
> look that tough to get to: the front and the
passenger
> side bolt (on the bottom). Then the third bolt
nearest
> the firewall, I can hardly see it at all. How am I going
to
> remove this? Will shouting help? I guess since I
already
> got the heat shields off, I'm wondering if the worst is
>
behind me. :)
Long extensions and do them from the bottom, and a
swivel might help too. I
used an 18" extension and a 12" as I
recall. If you hold your mouth just
right, it is almost easy (yeah
right).
> 7) I'd ~really~ appreciate some advice on good bolt-
>
loosening techniques. I'm about to hit some of the real
> nasty
turbo-to-manifold bolts, and some of the recent
> bolts I've removed (e.g.
EGR pipe) were pretty uncoop-
> erative and made me feel like the bolt
head was going
> to break off. Can this happen? I broke a
socket on one
> of those EGR pipe bolts, but breaking tools
doesn't
> bother me as much as the idea of breaking off a bolt
head
> or a stud.
Soak the crap out of anything overnight that
might be problematic with a
good penetrating compound llike Liquid Wrench and
that ilk. Dunno if this
stuff is O2 sensor safe so be carefully of
using it around them.
I broke TWO O2 sockets trying to get the rear one
off. Finally I used a
huge (18" handle) adjustable wrench -- it
came off like butter -- hard
butter though. I felt kind of dumb for
wrestling with the stupid things and
abusing those silly O2 sockets for 2
hours when the good ole monkey wrench
took about 10 seconds. It took
way too much force to remove though.
> Anyways, I don't know whether
it's better to pull a little
> bit at a time, or hang for a while on the
wrench, or just
> do big yanks all at once, etc. I'm doing this all
by hand
> here, folks. Also, I should use 1/2" drive with a big
arm
> bar (whenever possible) to loosen these 14mm turbo-to-
>
manifold bolts, right?
>
> I appreciate the help!
>
>
--Errin "i love the smell of wd40 in the morning"
>
Seattle
Basically, if you more or less follow what the service manual
says (other
than removing the accessories unless you do the oil feed lines,
which means
you pretty much have to) then it all works well. I removed
the rad but not
the accessories the first time I did this.
The second
time the engine came out, which in some ways is almost
easier...although
putting it back in was a royal PITA. I had to do it twice
as the first
time it went in I pinched one of the rubber boots on the engine
mount and it
bugged me too much to leave it as it was, even though
mechanically it would
have been fine.
Barry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:43:48 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost Question
> I installed VDO boost gauge with tap into
boost at Y pipe by throttle body.
First, this is before the
throttle body and the wrong place to measure boost ! You should measure boost at
the BPV activater hose or fuel pressure hose after the TB !!
> Here is
what boost does: Initially it hits 12.5 PSI, then it quickly falls to 9 psi by
about 4000 RPM , by 5000 RPM it hits 7 PSI and holds there til
redline.
Already explained by our friends.
> Is this
normal, if not is this caused by boost solenoid detecting
knock?
The ECU detects any problems and initiates a behaviour. The
solenoid is a passive element.
> I use 93 octane and do not have
noticeable knock.
How do you measure knock ??? On our cars we do not have
low speed knock and the dangerous high speed knock is not heareable
!!
> Perfomance overall seems pretty good. According to my
trusty G-tech, 0-60 arrives in 5.1 seconds which is within normal range for a
stock car.
Ok
> Am I losing boost? As FYI the gauge was
last used in my previous Talon and worked perfectly.
No, everything is
fine. Go on and buy an electronic boost controller.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 13:59:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor hub question..
> Can I go with a rotor with a thicker
hub to clear the
> brake calipers? Need about 1/2 inch more.. is
it
> possible to find one?? any down side to this?? how
> will the
wheel studs hold up?
Use a wheel spacer for this purpose .. or
another wheel. I had the same problem with the wheels availble here and
therefore ended in a 3-piece OZ design where clearance could be adjusted. The
stubs may become a problem with they are not long enough. Also there is more
stress on them.
Hope this helps a little,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:53:48 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Lowering a Spyder?
> with some kind of adjustable spring setup
like ground control coilovers or
> something similar. Straight RSR
or Eibach's likely won't support the extra
> weight and will squat the
rear. I'm surprised Matt hasn't replied to this
> as he has a
Spyder too.
I haven't lowered mine, and don't intend to. I'm
already scraping the
underside of the stock front fascia during autocrosses,
so I don't need
to hit sooner. :-) If I could find some stiffer
springs, maybe...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 31 Mar 2000 08:08:42 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotor hub question..
Thanx Roger!
I'm worried about stress
on the stock wheel studs
too.. are there any aftermarket longer and
stronger
wheel studs?? If yes, where can I get my hands
on
some?
George
- --- "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch> wrote:
> >
Can I go with a rotor with a thicker hub to clear
> the
> > brake
calipers? Need about 1/2 inch more.. is it
> > possible to find
one?? any down side to this?? how
> > will the wheel studs hold
up?
>
> Use a wheel spacer for this purpose .. or another
>
wheel. I had the same problem with the wheels
> availble here and
therefore ended in a 3-piece OZ
> design where clearance could be
adjusted. The stubs
> may become a problem with they are not long
enough.
> Also there is more stress on them.
>
> Hope this
helps a little,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
>
***Info:
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>
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of team3s V1 #96
********************