team3s
Thursday, March 30
2000 Volume 01
: Number
095
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 11:27:46 +0200
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock fog lamps
>>You may need to
convert the bulb connection plug, since the H3 bulbs have
>>different
plugs now. Take your bulb out _before_ going to the store
to
buy
>>a replacement, and you will see what I mean.
One is
indeed a blade type, the other one a bullet type.
>>I put 100 watt
bulbs in my foglights
Me too.
>>switched to a higher-rated
fuse
I kept the same one....works fine for me.
>>and they
sure are bright.
Yup yup
>>The stock wattage is pretty
worthless, in my opinion.
Yup yup yup
>>It may or may not be
coincidence (probably not!), but the one time I let
my
>>wife drive
the car to work, she ended up burning up the wiring on one
of
the
>>lights, so I will be taking mine apart soon to re-wire them
with larger
>>guage wire.
Well.......
Looking at the design
of the fog light itself, the "hot" wire is surrounded
by
metal
parts connected directly to the ground. So, if there ANY chance that
the
"hot" wire will touch ANY metal part around it....it will melt.
In
my case, I decided to play it safe, and used shrink tube.
No problem so
far.
>>You may also want to play with the aiming screws on the fogs
and
headlights
>>once you have replaced the bulbs, for more
effective lighting patterns.
There's as well a glare guard in the fog
light...and I was wondering if it
would be
a nice idea to remove
it....
I did it in my Nissan fog lights', and this REALLY improved the
pattern.
Henri
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 08:22:40 -0500
From: "Bob_Rand" <
Bob_Rand@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
NEED INFO
Harijanto, I like your analogy of the lifter noise as
"satan", it has
certainly been an irritant to many. The most
likely cause is air in the
lifter. One of the causes can be over fill
of the oil. As the crank cuts
through the oil it can cause it to foam with
little air bubbles. The other
end of the scale is oil level to low an
sump will pick up some air on hard
cornering etc. Most of the
time if you rev the engine to about 3500 to
4000 rpm and slowly bring it down
a couple of times will allow the air to
escape the
lifters.
Bob
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
CV.Duta Karya Teknik <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:37 AM
Subject: Team3S: NEED INFO
>
Hi All,
>
> I am a new member and would like to discuss and solve
the problem for my
> Mitsu.
> One of my sixteen lash adjusters
is malfunction always ticking and should
> be replaced with new
one.
> I bought new for 1 pc MD337687 -Mitsu Lash Adjuster, before I
installed it
> first I bleed air up by pushed a small wire (paperclip)
down slightly from
> top hole to bottom till lash adjuster is collapsed
then I deep it into
clean
> fuel diesel and pumping it up 5 to 8 times
till the cavity full of fuel
> diesel. After I did it, I take it up with
paperclip still in it and
pumping
> up to empty fuel diesel from cavity
then I deep it into clean oil and
> pumping it up to fill oil in it, but
the lash adjuster is still collapsed
> not like before I did it.
>
Then I installed it into barrel and completed the valvetrain after
this
work
> is finished then I start the engine up, first the lash
adjuster is still
> clattering after 2 minutes the satan went away, it
means the lash adjuster
> is working well. But what happened after 3
weeks, the lash adjuster is
> ticking again and it will go away when I
drive long.
> In my question, is the lash adjuster ticking because I did
it wrong
> procedure in which I collapsed it first by pushed down with
small wire to
> bleed air and fill oil into cavity.
> If I did it
wrong , how to fix it and if anybody knows and have experience
> please
let me know.
> Your kindly attention and assistance will be highly
appreciated.
>
> Kindly regards,
>
Harijanto
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 11:40:57 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mirror Outside driver
Hi all,
A friend needs to
replace his outside mirror on the drivers side. He
needs the whole
assembly cause of an insident with a truck.
His is a '92 3000GT base
model (color RED), but it looks the same as my
'93 Stealth TT.
Anybody
wrecked their car and have a mirror available???? Or a
suggested
source for one???
Please reply privately.
Thanks
John
-
--
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes
& Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 09:19:44 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: NEED INFO
> Harijanto, I like your analogy of the lifter
noise as "satan", it has
> certainly been an irritant to
many. The most likely cause is
> air in the lifter. One of
the causes can be over fill of the oil. As
> the crank cuts through the
oil it can cause it to foam with little air
> bubbles. The other
end of the scale is oil level to low an sump will pick
up
> some air
on hard cornering etc. Most of the time if you rev the engine
to
> about 3500 to> 4000 rpm and slowly bring it down a couple of times
will
> allow the air to escape the lifters.
>
>
Bob
One addition to Bob's comments: dirty oil can cause the ticking
as well -
if the lash adjusters get clogged. For a number of reasons,
I'm pretty sure
that was my problem last year (it was bad enough that I was
embarrassed to
go through drive-thrus and quiet neighborhoods), and I haven't
had it come
back other than about 3-4 times in the last year. Those few
times were
after the car had been sitting for a day or two, it was cold
outside, and I
had just started it. Each of those times, it went away
promptly when I
raised the revs over 2500RPM. My understanding is that
that is normal for
our cars occasionally. Perhaps you should try fuel
injector/valve cleaner
additive in your next tank of gas... Also, make
sure your oil and filter
are clean and changed at least every 3000mi.
Also, like Bob said, don't
over- or under-fill your oil, either, as this can
cause satan to appear:)
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 68,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 12:50:07 -0800
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mirror Outside driver
There's a place that has basically nothing
but trashed DSM's and
3S's.. M&S Recycling.. Try msrecycling.com They
have the following
listed under new arrivals:
3000 GT &
Stealth
1992 Dodge Stealth ES
Stock #2023
- Photos 1999 Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4
Stock #1960 - Photos
1993 Dodge Stealth ES
Stock #2042 - Photos
But that 99 VR-4 has been there since November so it's not necesarily
"new." Hoewver, the 3000GT's and Stealths have always used the
same
mirrors if I'm not mistaken.
-
-----------------------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
-
--
http://elguapo.penguinpowered.com-
-----------------------------------
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 13:48:50 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Signing off
Hey gang:
Nuffing personal, but I'm signing off
for the next three weeks to go on a
vacation.
See yez on the flip
side.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/don't stop me now
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 13:57:03 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Road
America Event
Hi John, Scott, tj, Rich (oh geez just started to wonder if
your first name
is Rich or Merritt!) you all are midwest and in my log as
interested
in this so:
There is a Road America, Elkhart Lake,
Wisconsin
"driver school" ;) event April 15-16 being
put on by
a guy in the F-body club. Has like 12 Vipers, a couple
of
Lotuses, numbers of Porsches, bunch of Vettes, ETC going,
and I am
expecting my 94 to be running :) so I am ordering
some tires and brake
pads in anticipation. My friend with
94 Supra TT (11.4/129 no nos) is
going too, it looks like.
Some full race cars, some street, full range of
stuff.
Maybe Jim Fuchs with his F40 will be there :) if
weather is
nice...says I'm first VR4 to ask.
Cost: $250 total, for both
days. Will have 100 unleaded,
and 110 leaded gas available; and grill
open.
Organizer's name is John Gay, phone 414-321-8892.
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 12:20:20 -0800
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Signing off
HAVE A GOOD ONE!!
Julian Huang
94
Mitsubishi Veilside Tein GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:49 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.net;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Signing off
Hey gang:
Nuffing personal, but I'm signing off for
the next three weeks to go on a
vacation.
See yez on the flip
side.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/don't stop me
now
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 13:17:46 -0500
From: "Manoj Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock fog lamps
It is 3 bolts that hold the fog light
in.
Rgds
Moe P
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Roger J. Roskam
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 8:32 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Stock fog lamps
Tim:
I didn't see any reply to
your question, so...
You need to undo some bolts from the front air dam
(black plastic thingy
under front bumper) -- enough to reach and see your way
to the back side of
the foglight, then reach up and undo the 2(?) bolts from
the foglight. It
then slides out the front pretty easily. Let me
know if you need more
detail, and I will gladly provide it.
You may
need to convert the bulb connection plug, since the H3 bulbs have
different
plugs now. Take your bulb out _before_ going to the store to buy
a
replacement, and you will see what I mean.
I put 100 watt bulbs in my
foglights, switched to a higher-rated fuse, and
they sure are bright.
The stock wattage is pretty worthless, in my opinion.
It may or may not be
coincidence (probably not!), but the one time I let my
wife drive the car to
work, she ended up burning up the wiring on one of the
lights, so I will be
taking mine apart soon to re-wire them with larger
guage wire.
You may
also want to play with the aiming screws on the fogs and headlights
once you
have replaced the bulbs, for more effective lighting
patterns.
Roger
91 Stealth TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Tim DeKeyser <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 28, 2000 2:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stock fog
lamps
> I have one of the lamps out on the fog lights (91 Stealth
R/T), I cannot
> figure out how to get to it so I can replace it. I know
there must be an
> easy way.
>
> Stealth TT, Dallas TX
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
>
***Info:
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***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 29 Mar 2000 15:47:49 -0500
From: Joshua <
joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lowering a Spyder?
Has anyone successfully lowered their vr-4
spyder? If so which springs and
how does it now ride.
Thanks
Joshua Prince
97 1/2 Fly Yellow Hummer
Convertible
3SI#0136
Joshua@Unconundrum.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 02:18:22 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo Swappin' Fun
Hey y'all,
Well, thanks to all the help
I received from you guys,
I'm pretty far into my turbo swap project.
Right now
I've done everything except unbolt the turbos from
the
manifolds, rear turbo from the O2 housing, and the
oil and coolant
lines.
Yes, I got the rear heat shields off. It wasn't too
bad
actually. You just have to ask them nicely.
I can't believe
I've even made it this far. =)
Here come several questions I need help
with:
1) Has anyone been able to remove the front exhaust
manifold
heat shield (the one which "wraps" the exh.
manifold) without
resorting to drastic measures?
I want to get it ceramic coated to help
reduce under-
hood temperatures which really annoys me (in fact,
Miss
December '99 listed it as one of her pet peeves).
Problem is that it
looks impossible to remove without
unplugging the huge metal line into the
air conditioning
compressor. *Can I just unbolt this line, or do I
have
to drain the refrigerant fluid first? Is doing this a
pain?
2) What are the symptoms to look for that your oil
lines are
clogged and need replacing? I noticed that
there seems to be oil
leaking from my rear oil return
line where it attaches to the oil pan.
Does this tell
me anything significant about oil supply to my turbos
(or
is it just probably a leaky gasket)?
3) Has anyone been able to replace
the oil feed line
for the front turbo? People were saying here
recently
to replace your oil lines, and somebody (can't rmbr
who) told me
that one of the lines would need to be
replaced "by feel."
However, this feed line look totally
impossible to replace w/o removing the
alternator, air
cond. compressor, bracket, drive belt and tensioner.
Maybe
I should only replace the return lines? (the rear
feed line also looks
like a pain to mess with)
4) Which way will the rear O2 housing come
out?
From the top or bottom?
5) I'm looking at things and wondering,
is it possible
to leave the rear turbo attached to the O2 housing
and
remove both of them together? I'm thinking no.
6) Two of the rear
turbo bolts to the manifold don't
look that tough to get to: the front and
the passenger
side bolt (on the bottom). Then the third bolt
nearest
the firewall, I can hardly see it at all. How am I going
to
remove this? Will shouting help? I guess since I
already
got the heat shields off, I'm wondering if the worst is
behind
me. :)
7) I'd ~really~ appreciate some advice on good
bolt-
loosening techniques. I'm about to hit some of the real
nasty
turbo-to-manifold bolts, and some of the recent
bolts I've removed (e.g. EGR
pipe) were pretty uncoop-
erative and made me feel like the bolt head was
going
to break off. Can this happen? I broke a socket on
one
of those EGR pipe bolts, but breaking tools doesn't
bother me as much
as the idea of breaking off a bolt head
or a stud.
Anyways, I don't
know whether it's better to pull a little
bit at a time, or hang for a while
on the wrench, or just
do big yanks all at once, etc. I'm doing this
all by hand
here, folks. Also, I should use 1/2" drive with a big
arm
bar (whenever possible) to loosen these 14mm turbo-to-
manifold bolts,
right?
I appreciate the help!
- --Errin "i love the smell of
wd40 in the morning"
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:18:03 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler"
<
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1994 3000gt SL Failed High Speed Emissions Test
I can't believe
it: I failed the emissions (I/M) portion of my
Texas State Inspection
yesterday on my 1994 3000gt SL.
I haven't had it inspected since I bought it
last June. It
failed the high rpm test twice:
HC (ppm):
Standard should be 220, mine was 239
CO (%) :
Standard should be 1.20, mine was 1.57.
RPM: 2421
It did fine on the
low speed emissions test:
HC (ppm) : Standard should be 220 again
and mine was 92 at 696rpm.
CO (%) : Standard should be 1.20 again
and mine was 0.17 at 696rpm.
It has 68,000 miles on it and has NOT had
the 60,000 mile tune up
(shame on me, I know). I guess I will start
with that myself:
I should be able to at least do the plugs and air filter
and gas
filter myself, I assume it has a distributor rotor and cap
or
something similar to it anyway. Will this be enough? Does
anyone
know what could be making it run rich at higher rpms?
Dirty plugs?
Does anyone know if 239 is far off from 220 HC ppm or if
1.57% is
far off from 1.20% CO? I would think this
non-turbo car should
be easy to tune up since I already had the timing belt
done and am
not going to mess with the water pump. I did find the faqs on
the
list: that will help a lot. Thanks ahead for your
input.
Bob
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #95
********************