team3s
Sunday, March 26
2000
Volume 01 : Number
092
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 10:02:30 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Replacement
Question:
I just went to replace my
rotors and pads, and discovered the studs are part of
the rotor..didnt see
that comin at all.
Can you re-use studs in the new
rotor?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 18:06:00 CST
From: "Predator -" <
predator_dr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crank Position
We are in the process of changing the timing belt
and are having problems
aligning the cam sprockets. Is the crank supposed to
be set to top dead
center? The only way the sprocket marks seem to line
up
with the marks on the engine is when we set the crank to 20 deg. before
top
dead center (this is when the timing belt is tight). When we use TDC as
the
starting point the mark on the sprocket will be either one half mark
before
or one half mark past the alignment mark on the engine. This is true
on all
the sprockets.
PLEASE HELP!
Mike
92 Stealth
ES
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 16:28:53 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <
amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
The wheel studs ARE NOT part of the rotors.
Did you remove the rotor? It
should come out with a little banging with a
rubber mallet... once the
caliper is clear anyways.
Jose
Soriano
visit my Stealth site at
www.3si.org/amahoser- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 25, 2000 10:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Rotor
Replacement
> Question:
>
> I just went to replace my
rotors and pads, and discovered the studs are
part of
> the
rotor..didnt see that comin at all.
>
>
> Can you re-use studs
in the new rotor?
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 19:46:02 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
Hmmm, Look again. The studs are not
part of the rotor.
Once you get the caliper off, you should be able to
remove the rotor. If you
can not remove it easily, Don't bang on it, use the
two 8mm holes that the
factory placed there by design to remove a stuck
rotor.
You will thread two 8mm X 1.25 bolts into these holes and the
rotor will
come off.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Mohler, Jeff
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 12:03 PM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Replacement
Question:
I just went to replace my
rotors and pads, and discovered the studs are part
of
the rotor..didnt see
that comin at all.
Can you re-use studs in the new
rotor?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 21:27:53 EST
From:
Mitsukid99@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Car idling, dying, no clue?
This is a problem my buddy Josh is having
with his 93 VR-4, I am clueless, he
suspects the computer but I think it's
mechanical; although everything seems
intact, here is his
account:
Two weeks ago I started my car and It has just got worse after
that.
From what I have figured, my blancer/lower pully bolt had been working
lose
since I did my 60K tune. I guess the roll pin that aligns the pully had
been
keep things together for me somehow. But this last start the pin
sheared in
half.
The bolt stayed in the crank, but the pully and
every thing else stoped.
It took about 45 seconds or so to get out, car
still running, and notice that
none of the belts were turning. I shut it off
there and called a flat bed.
Fastforward two weeks. I open her up and
find out that indeed that is what
happend. Half the pin was in the timing
gear, the other half fell out of the
pully once i got it off. I got a
replacment pin and luckly was able to get
the other half out of the timming
gear.
Now, back to the Problem. I got it all back togther and now it runs
for about
30 seconds, the check engine light comes on, and she dies. I tried
to reset
the computer(if you call disconnecting the battery for 10 min
"resetting"),
but nothing changes. Also it seems that the rear
bank of cylinder are running
much hotter than the front, or the front are
not firing right. When I give it
a some gas and let off it backfires a bit.
He's checked all intake, intercooling, etc for leaks, not that.
The car now
runs 5 minutes then check engine light, then death. Any tips or
ideas?
Ant
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:39:55 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car idling, dying, no clue?
Pull the codes and check to see
what sensor is tripping the Check engine
light.
As a general rule,
most sensors will not cause the car to die immediately,
I would check the
crank and cam sensors. I suspect you have some dirt/metal
causing a
short in the crank sensor (due to the metal shavings from the
crank
pulley)
Other items to check:
Fuel pump, does stop running?
Do you
still have spark when it dies?
I'm sure there is more, but this gives you
a few places to start.
Does the car die immediately? Or does it just
sputter down?
What about the Alternator voltage? I think
something might have locked up
to sheer off the dowel pin on the crank
pulley. Or the pulley was not
installed correctly.
Brad
Check
out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
Mitsukid99@aol.comSent:
Saturday, March 25, 2000 8:28 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Car idling, dying, no clue?
This is a problem my buddy Josh
is having with his 93 VR-4, I am clueless,
he
suspects the computer but I
think it's mechanical; although everything seems
intact, here is his
account:
Two weeks ago I started my car and It has just got worse after
that.
From what I have figured, my blancer/lower pully bolt had been working
lose
since I did my 60K tune. I guess the roll pin that aligns the pully had
been
keep things together for me somehow. But this last start the pin sheared
in
half.
The bolt stayed in the crank, but the pully and every thing
else stoped.
It took about 45 seconds or so to get out, car still running,
and notice
that
none of the belts were turning. I shut it off there and
called a flat bed.
Fastforward two weeks. I open her up and find out that
indeed that is what
happend. Half the pin was in the timing gear, the other
half fell out of the
pully once i got it off. I got a replacment pin and
luckly was able to get
the other half out of the timming gear.
Now,
back to the Problem. I got it all back togther and now it runs
for
about
30 seconds, the check engine light comes on, and she dies. I
tried to reset
the computer(if you call disconnecting the battery for 10 min
"resetting"),
but nothing changes. Also it seems that the rear bank
of cylinder are
running
much hotter than the front, or the front are not
firing right. When I give
it
a some gas and let off it backfires a
bit.
He's checked all intake, intercooling, etc for leaks, not
that. The car now
runs 5 minutes then check engine light, then death.
Any tips or ideas?
Ant
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:46:21 CST
From: "Predator -" <
predator_dr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crank Position
- -I had tried to send this message once before,
but errors came
back-
-SORRY IF I REPOSTED-
We are in the process of changing the timing belt
and are having problems
aligning the cam sprockets. Is the crank supposed to
be set to top dead
center? The only way the sprocket marks seem to line
up
with the marks on the engine is when we set the crank to 20 deg. before
top
dead center (this is when the timing belt is tight). When we use TDC as
the
starting point the mark on the sprocket will be either one half mark
before
or one half mark past the alignment mark on the engine. This is true
on all
the sprockets.
PLEASE HELP!
Mike
92 Stealth
ES
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 19:10:14 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Mohler, Jeff
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 7:10 PM
To: 'Merritt';
Mohler, Jeff
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
I dont use OEM
studs...and cannot. So I wondered if I can Xplant the racing
studs I
have now.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Saturday, March 25, 2000 11:41 AM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rotor Replacement
>I just went to replace my rotors and pads, and
discovered the studs are
part of
>the rotor..didnt see that comin at
all.>
>Can you re-use studs in the new rotor?
Why bother? They
are only like $1.50 or so at the Mitsu dealer.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 19:12:13 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
That appears to be what I
saw..
Darn..they sure LOOK like they are pressed into the rotors
*laugh*
The new pads have been BBQd, and I will install
tomorrow.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell [
mailto:bbedell@austin.rr.com]
Sent:
Saturday, March 25, 2000 5:46 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rotor Replacement
Hmmm, Look again. The studs are
not part of the rotor.
Once you get the caliper off, you should be able
to remove the rotor. If you
can not remove it easily, Don't bang on it, use
the two 8mm holes that the
factory placed there by design to remove a stuck
rotor.
You will thread two 8mm X 1.25 bolts into these holes and the
rotor will
come off.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Mohler, Jeff
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 12:03 PM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Team3S: Rotor Replacement
Question:
I just went to replace my
rotors and pads, and discovered the studs are part
of
the rotor..didnt see
that comin at all.
Can you re-use studs in the new
rotor?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 22:15:57 EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Re: Turbo
timer setting?
>I have a turbo timer on my VR4. Right now its set to 1
minute. Is the
>sufficient to cool the turbos?
>
>-
-MM
I would think that 3 to 5 minutes is a more appropriate time for the
average
driver. I would even set it up to 10 minutes if you drive the car
pretty hard.
My one of my friend's once knew I guy that had a old T-Bird
and he would race
it on the backroads for a couple of hours. Afterwards, the
turbo would
actually be glowing orange and he would have to let it idle for
about three
hours to let it cool down. I'm just giving you this example to
to demonstrate
that the idle time all depends on how hard you drive the
car.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 25 Mar 2000 22:31:08 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Turbo timer setting?
> I would think that 3 to 5 minutes
is a more appropriate time
> for the average driver. I would even set it
up to 10 minutes
> if you drive the car pretty hard.
3 to 5 minutes
should be an extreme example. The turbos are also liquid cooled by the
normal engine coolant, so the temperature decreases fairly rapidly once you are
"off the boost".
> My one of my friend's once knew I guy
that had a old T-Bird
> and he would race it on the backroads for a
couple of
> hours. Afterwards, the turbo would actually be glowing
>
orange and he would have to let it idle for about three
> hours to let it
cool down. I'm just giving you this example
> to to demonstrate that the
idle time all depends on how hard
> you drive the car.
Three HOURS
of idling to cool it down? You are kidding, right?
Our turbos will
glow hot if you are wailing on them and immediately pop the hood, however when
you get off the gas then the exhaust gas temperatures (which are a bigp portion
of what heats them in the first place) drop and help to cool the turbos down to
reasonable temperatures quickly. The coolant and oil does the rest of the
job.
To answer the original question of whether 1 minute is adequate idle
time to cool turbos, in most circumstances it is. It will let some cool
oil make its way through the turbo bearings, as well as some coolant through the
center section of the turbo and draw away the high temperatures that cause the
coking of oil that causes most premature turbo failures. If you are
driving hard and park the car right away (such as in an autocross or drag
racing) then you might want to pop the hood and set it for 3-5 minutes.
That should be more than adequate.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 06:23:56 EST
From:
Nturavgguy@aol.comSubject: Team3S: for
sale
Summer is almost here and it is time for a new toy. I have a
93 3000GT for
sale. The following parts are new within the past 10k
that I have had it.
Clutch, trans bearings synchros several gears and
hubs, water pump, timing
belt, plugs, wires, brakes, Clation Pro Audio CD
player, right wheel bearing,
K&N filtercharger intake box, Eibach Pro
series lowering springs (1.5" frnt
1.3" rear) The car now
has approx 99k miles on it. Color is red on black
and grey
cloth. I would keep driving in for another year myself, but I have
just gotten bored and need to try something else. I am asking $8750
but I am
willing to talk. I am in Southern NH (Merrimack). You
can contact my via
email or by phone (603) 429-4182 evenings only
please. My email is
NtUrAvgGuy@aol.comThanks
Jim
Graham
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:50:41 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Turbo timer setting?
> My one of my friend's once knew I
guy that had a old T-Bird
> and he would race it on the backroads for a
couple of
> hours. Afterwards, the turbo would actually be glowing
>
orange and he would have to let it idle for about three
> hours to let it
cool down. I'm just giving you this example
> to to demonstrate that the
idle time all depends on how hard
> you drive the car.
Hohoho, 3h,
this is just ... no, sorry no stupid words here :) Be realistic
and you will
see that the car even heats up more when sitting on a parking
lot and it just
idles. Anything over 2 minutes is too much ! Often it is
much better to drive
it around at low to no boost. This cools down the
engine/turbos much better.
The Dual Timer from Blitz is taking care of this
as it measures boost and
determines how long it should take to cool down.
When I do a test-run (same
street up and down) and come back to my
"pit-place" boost had
peaked up to 1.15 bars with about 0.98 bar at 7000
(13g) and a speed of about
220km/h, the timer is increased to about 1min
48sec. Every vacuum reading
during driving back decreases this time and
IMHO, driving it around helps
much better.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
>
> Our turbos will glow hot if you are
wailing on them and immediately pop
the hood, however when you get off the
gas then the exhaust gas temperatures
(which are a bigp portion of what heats
them in the first place) drop and
help to cool the turbos down to reasonable
temperatures quickly. The
coolant and oil does the rest of the
job.
>
> To answer the original question of whether 1 minute is
adequate idle time
to cool turbos, in most circumstances it is. It will
let some cool oil make
its way through the turbo bearings, as well as some
coolant through the
center section of the turbo and draw away the high
temperatures that cause
the coking of oil that causes most premature turbo
failures. If you are
driving hard and park the car right away (such as
in an autocross or drag
racing) then you might want to pop the hood and set
it for 3-5 minutes.
That should be more than adequate.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 08:25:10 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Timing belt help
If I remember correctly they are little square cutouts
right behind the cam
gears. If you look down onto the top of the
center of the cam gears (onto
where the timing belt runs over the gear) and
then follow the teeth to where
they meet the engine, you should see the
cutouts. There is a triange stamped
into one of the teeth on the cam
gears. You have to line up the tooth with
the square cut
out.
There is also a triangle stamped
into the side of the crank gear. If I
remember correctly, the timing
mark on the engine side is at about 4:00 or
4:30. Once you get the
mark set, then back it off one tooth because once you
put the timing belt on
and tension it up, it will advance one tooth. Once
the tensioner is
set properly, then crank the engine two full revolutions,
line everything up
again and sit tight for 10 minutes or so. DON'T RUSH THIS
STEP! It is
necessary to get everything set and the belt stretched a bit.
After
that, you have to recheck your timing marks and recheck the tensioner.
Chances are you will have to redo tensioning a few
times.
Hope this helps. Do you have a copy of
the service manual where is shows
the timing marks? If not let me know
and I'll scan in on Monday and E-Mail
it to you.
Joe
91TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 08:38:05 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Crank Position
Mike: I can't remember if the Stealth ES has the
single or double cam. If
it is the single, you should align the timing
mark on the crank at the top
dead point of the No. 1 cylinder compression
stroke. The alignment marks on
the gears should also be lined up
directly with the timing marks on the
engine. Be sure you put the belt
on in the following sequence:
Route the timing belt on
the CRANKSHAFT gear first, then onto the
camshaft gear on the side WITHOUT
slackness in the tight side (i.e, the RIGHT
sprocket). Then run the
belt onto the water pump pulley, the camshaft gear
on the front (left) side,
and around the timing belt tensioner. Then, apply
force
COUNTERCLOCKWISE to the camhaft gear on the RIGHT (rear) side, tension
the
belt up, and all of your marks should be aligned.
If
you have the double cam alignment is a little trickier. Did you align
all your marks BEFORE you took your old timing belt off? If so,
alignment
will be easier. If not, you have to maneuver the cam gears
around to get the
timing marks to match because timing is made with some of
the valves
partially open. If you have intake and exhaust valves open
at the same time,
they will interfere with each other. SO let let me
know if you need the
procedure for the double cam.
Hope this helps. If you need anything else, just let us know!
Joe
91TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Mar 2000 12:36:53 CST
From: "Predator -" <
predator_dr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thanks for the help, 1 more question! (Timing Belt)
I appreciate
all the help I have recieved from everyone, I've gotten
everything done, but
can't find the mark that I align the timing mark on the
crank with...There
is a notch and a metal rib both in a position to be a
possible mark, also,
there are marks on the plastic cover that covers the
crank.
I would
appreciate any help on the location of this mark...
Thanks,
Mike
92
Stealth ES
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #92
********************