team3s
Thursday, March 23
2000 Volume 01
: Number
090
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:40:44 EST
From:
Jkmonnin@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Rod
Knocking, nitride crank on 91?
Are the cranks on 91 twin turbo engines
nitride hardened?
I have seen both opinions expressed?
In regards to
conditions that lead to rod knocking. The car had 36,000 miles
on it
when I bought it 3 years ago. I change the oil every 3000 miles
although sometimes it stretched to 4,000. I have been using
Mobil 1 since I
bought the car. No engine modifications, no engine
additives. I had the
timing chain, idler and water oump changed by
dealer at 65,000 miles. It is
a mystery to me why the engine
failed.
My wife drives the car so she babied it. I drove it
hard once or twice a
week but nothing excessive, I drove my 94 Z-28
much harder.
P.S. I am an engineer at a aftermarket truck
body company, I previouy
worked as an engineerer at Peterbilt. I have
never seen anyone give me
scientific evidencve that oil additives help at
all. This is a topic of
argument at anyplace the engineers
work. I do use suynthetic oil because
there is scientific evidence
that it is far more resistant to heat and
breakdown compared to regular
oil. At the cost of synthetic I only use it
in turbo cars or
very high performance cars because a it is not worth the
cost on a normal
engine that sees only normal driving. But this is just my
opinon I
would love to hear from a petro chemical engineer.
>ps what kind of
oil were you using, how often changed,
>how many miles on motor, how long
have you owned it,
>how hard you driving/how much boost, ANY
oil
>additives like Prolong, Duralube etc (how long before
>motor
crapped if you added an additive?).....
>>
Jkmonnin@aol.com wrote:
>>91 VR4
developed bad bearing knock weeks ago, dealer................
John
Monnin
91 Maroon 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@aol.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:56:45 EST
From:
Jkmonnin@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Idle
Problems
My 91 3000GT had idle problems after I had the 60K tune-up done
at the dealer
the idle wandered and the care would stall out
occasionally. I took the car
back and the dealer said it was
really bad gas and that I should run it
almost empty then the problem would
go away with a new tank full. The car
continued to have idle
problems and missed at high boost levels. I went
back to the
dealer extremely mad and the dealer fixed the problem for free.
All they did was add some fuel injector cleaner and flush the system
out. I
trie dto buy more of the cleaner but they said it was not for
sale outside of
dealerships because it was too strong??? The car
ran fine afterwards I was
not completly convince that they did not fix a
differnt screwup and use the
bad gas story as an excuse but my car ran fine
afterwards.
(but I am the guy with bad rod knock at 86,000
miles).
John Monnin
91 3000GT VR4
jkmonnin@aol.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:11:02 -0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Best Piston/Rod combo, was Re:Engine Rebuild help
As usual,
excellent information from Jack. In addition to all his comments
there
is a good chance the con rod itself is now out of spec. When
I
experienced rod knock in my '78 TA (400), the con rod (large end diameter)
was
slightly oblong and forced me to purchase a new rod. This means
the head will
have to be removed unless you can insert piston from bottom
of bore (would
need to remove the crank, have clearance in the block - mains
are usually in
the way, and can compress the rings as you
install).
> If you plan to race it some, I'd put some forged JE
pistons
> in there while it's out. Stock rods are fine really but
there
> are aftermarket options for a max effort engine.
I'm
currently building a 2nd gen engine that can support ~550hp for my
'92
Stealth (limited by my fuel system, not ready to upgrade to 720s).
I am
starting with a fresh short block. I would like to upgrade to
forged pistons
(I'm aware of the Ross units GT Pro sells but cannot find JE
or others) but
I'm undecided on the rods. I may reuse the stock units
(are they P/M or
forged?) but have a few questions relating to the best way
to go from a press
fit pin to a full floating pin.
1) Has anyone
used stock rods with full floating pins?
2) If so, did you bush the
rod?
3) did you add oil provisions (small hole at top of piston or two
from the
sides)?
4) Has anyone sent out their rods for magna flux
and shotpeen (if so where)?
5) What is the best after market rod
available for our application?
> > My engine rebuild experience is
69 Olds 350 and 72 Pontiac 400.
> I can relate, many Pontiac 400
removings, teardowns, buildings
> under my belt :) my 79 TA
with 400 is staring at me with a fried lower
> end as we speak, from its
fall 1998 10.4/131.6 all motor outing :(
I too have loved the
Pontiacs for many years, but none of them ran 10's!, or
11's, or 12's.
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/Myotherrides.htmThanks,
Slo
Joe
'92 R/T TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:47:07 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Best Piston/Rod combo, was Re:Engine Rebuild help
> 1) Has
anyone used stock rods with full floating pins?
I would have if JE hadn't
messed up my piston order.
> 2) If so, did you bush the
rod?
We were going to.
> 3) did you add oil provisions
(small hole at top of piston or
> two from the sides)?
That would
have been done but to the small end of the rod journal as
I
recall.
> 4) Has anyone sent out their rods for magna flux
and shotpeen
> (if so where)?
My builder did, but I do not know the
service the shop used. They balanced
the entire rotating assembly from
clutch to pulley to within 1 gram. It was
supposedly a shop that does a
lot of NASCAR stuff here in Phoenix that
doesn't advertise nor deal with the
general public, but I don't know the
details beyond that.
>
5) What is the best after market rod available for our
application?
Dunno but I had settled on Crower until I convinced myself
that the stock
rods were more than adequate. Comapre them to smallblock
V8 Eagle's or
something similar and you'll see that the stockers are very
beefy.
Barry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:17:04 CST
From: "Predator -" <
predator_dr@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt help
My Timing Belt tensioner broke, (I found about
1/2 slack in the belt when I
found this). I believe I'm off about 1 or
2 teeth on the right side cam.
How do I align the marks so I can be
sure that its set in proper relation to
the crank?
Any help would be
appreciated....
Mike
92 Stealth
ES
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:32:32 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: tick
I had some ticking before I changed oil last week. Now we
also added a "hydraulic lifter" additive and the car is very silent
again :) I'd try this at first.
If this doesn't help and the lifter
should be replaced (if you can exactly determine which one it is) this work
involves removing the particular cam, rocker and then the lifter. I'm not sure
but I thought one said that you can change it with the cam in place, but I'm not
sure as I had to replace the valves too.
In either case, I'd remove the
front valve cover and look at the cams for any strange and obvious signs. A pic
of them would help. Also I'd do a good engine flush and use good oil then with
the additive. Unfortunately, it is really normal wear and not covered
:(
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> On my RT i hear a definate tick
from the covers sounds like 1 lifter, I
> call a dealer looks like at
least $1300 whether its a worn cam or upper
> or lower train, is this
serious and does anyone know if I can get parts
> other then
dealer?
> Ive only had this car two weeks and the dealer says its normal
wear and
> not covered
> Joe 92 RT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:18:52 -0500
From: "Dan Mecier" <
dmecier@ka.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
tick
>>I'm not sure but I thought one said that you can change it
with the cam in
place, but I'm not sure as I had to replace the valves
too.
Yes, you can replace the lifters with the cams still in place. This
saves a
tremendous amount of time as otherwise you would have to remove the
timing
belt to get the cams out. There is a special tool available from Mits
to
compress the valve spring enough to get the rocker arm out. I just
used
screwdrivers to compress the springs. Others on the 3SI board have done
this
as well. I can give more detailed info if anyone wants.
Dan
Mecier
3SI #328
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 06:17:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Best Piston/Rod combo
Joe,
Venolia made my forged
pistons to 0.050" over-sized specs. They
contain no silicon and have no
coatings. Clearance is 0.005" but
shaving the skirts eliminated any
rattling from piston slap at
startup. If you are interested I could find the
details. There's
probably a production number or something Venolia
could
reference.
Jeff Lucius; 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT; 3.056
L, 186 CI; completely rebuilt,
race-prepped and balanced engine;
0.050"-oversized, forged,
no-silicon Venolia pistons (8.2:1 CR); head
flow work and port
matching; Magnecor 8.5 mm plug wires; 0.034" plug
gap; 380
cc/min (balanced-stock) injectors; TEC 15G turbos; GT
Alley
intercoolers and 2" piping; front-mount oil cooler; K&N
FIPK;
GReddy Type-S BOV; improved pre-cats; ATR downpipe, cat,
and
cat-back exhaust; HKS EVC IV; Boost, FP, and dual EGT
gauges;
Centerforce DF clutch; PowerStop cross-drilled rotors;
Metal
Matrix pads; SMC brake lines; Nitto NT-555 P245/45ZR17;
Autopal
lights w/ H4 ultrawhites; window tint; TMO Datalogger; G-Tech
Pro;
[ARC2-GP, Denso 720 cc/min injectors, and Denso 90 gph fuel
pump to be added
soon].
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Gonsowski"
<
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, March 22, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Best Piston/Rod combo, was
Re:Engine Rebuild
help
I'm currently building a 2nd gen engine that
can support ~550hp
for my '92 Stealth (limited by my fuel system, not ready
to
upgrade to 720s). I am starting with a fresh short block.
I
would like to upgrade to forged pistons (I'm aware of the Ross
units GT
Pro sells but cannot find JE or others)
...
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 09:32:26 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Best
Piston/Rod combo
I used JE Pistons & Crower Rods on my engine
Arty
91 VR-4
In a message dated 3/23/00 6:18:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
stealthman92@yahoo.com
writes:
<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Best
Piston/Rod combo
Date: 3/23/00 6:18:19 AM Pacific Standard
Time
From:
stealthman92@yahoo.com (Jeff
Lucius)
Sender:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.stTo:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st (Team
3S)
>>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:49:19 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: engine chocking?
Well, this may have nothing to do with your
problem, but I figured I'd throw
this out there anyway. The only time
I've seen my car do what you mentioned
(idle bouncing all over the place and
stalling/almost stalling) was when I
forgot to reconnect the MAS wiring
harness after working under the hood.
Without the MAS signals, the idle
bounces all over the place and sometimes
the car stalls. Check
that your MAS wiring harness isn't loose, and/or
unplug it and reconnect it
to make sure it's got a good connection.
- --Erik
>
****New problem******
> Today, after driving the car under normal
conditions for
> about a half an hour, I parked the car and went into a
store
> to buy something. 20 to 30 minutes later, when I leave the
> store and try to start the engine, it starts, but the RPM
> kept
fluctuating between 500 to 1000RPM and eventually the
> engine quit after
about 5 seconds. I noticed the engine
> temperature was still
roughly in the same spot where I had
> left it almost a half an hour
earlier. And you know how the
> engine is supposed to idle at about
2000RPM initially and
> gradually drop down to the recommended 700 or
so. Well, I
> guess the engine was warm enough and the car wanted
to idle
> at the 700 range, but it couldn't. I then started the
engine
> again and the same thing happened. The worse is yet to
come.
> I figured that if I just gave it some gas, it should keep
> the engine going. Well, that didn't work either as it killed
> the engine even quicker. After several tries more, I finally
> started to pump the gas rapidly and the engine finally took
>
off. Afterwards, everything seemed to be fine.
> Nevertheless, it
took me about 7 tries to start the engine
> which totally scares me since
the car is not that old (94)
> and it does not have that many miles
(60,000). The only real
> change that the car has experienced has
been that I changed
> from regular oil to synthetic, but I thought
synthetic is
> better. This sort of an incident has happened to me
before,
> but it was a rather symple fix since I just gave it a litle
> gas and it acted like there was nothing wrong. This other
> incident happened about half a year ago. Can anybody
> help
me in what the problem might be? Could the car be
> acting up since
I did not give it its 60K recommended tune up?
>
> Thanks in
advance for any help.
>
> John 94 Yellow TT, Westland,
Michigan.
>
>
> ***Info:
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>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 09:39:16 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Idle Problems
> My 91 3000GT had idle problems after I had
the 60K tune-up done at the dealer
> the idle wandered and the care would
stall out occasionally. I took the car
> back and the dealer
said it was really bad gas and that I should run it
> almost empty then
the problem would go away with a new tank full. The car
>
continued to have idle problems and missed at high boost levels. I
went
> back to the dealer extremely mad and the dealer fixed the
problem for free.
> All they did was add some fuel injector cleaner
and flush the system out. I
> trie dto buy more of the cleaner but
they said it was not for sale outside of
> dealerships because it was too
strong??? The car ran fine afterwards I was
> not completly
convince that they did not fix a differnt screwup and use the
> bad gas
story as an excuse but my car ran fine afterwards.
> (but I am the guy
with bad rod knock at 86,000 miles).
Did they replace the timing belt at
the 60K? If so, they could have messed up
the cam timing. That is
what the local dealer did to my car. Of course they
lied said it was a
loose vacuum hose. When I removed it (and other hoses as
well, one at a
time), the car still ran fine.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your
view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:43:58 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Factory Spark Plugs?
I will be changing the plugs and wires in my
dad's 92 R/T TT this weekend
and wanted to know what I should install.
I was told to only use factory
Mitsu plugs.
I have 3 (don't ask me
why I have only 3), factory Mitsu plugs but am not
sure if they are the
right ones or not. The part # on the outside of the
box reads MS
851502 then below that it says PK20PR-P11.
The plugs themselves are
Nippondenso plugs. They say Platinum tipped "ND"
on the outside of
the box. Is this the right plug for a TT?
If so, I will just order
three more.
Thanks,
Rick
Florida
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 09:48:14 -0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
I just bought a used VR4 ('91)
that has a keyless entry. So far all I've
been able to do with it is set of
the alarm... :( It has a big button on the
left and a little button on the
right (with a red light next to it). The
little button causes the red light
to flash but the big button does not.
Anyone know the correct combination for
this unit?
- -MM
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 10:09:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Factory Spark Plugs?
The proper spark plugs are platinum NGK
PFR6J-11 (or Denso
PK20PR-P11 or equivalent) for the DOHC engine, and NGK
BPR5ES-11
(or Denso W16EPR11 or equivalent) for the SOHC.
Jeff
Lucius
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick D" <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 23, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: Factory Spark
Plugs?
I will be changing the plugs and wires in my dad's 92 R/T
TT
this weekend and wanted to know what I should install. I was
told
to only use factory Mitsu plugs.
I have 3 (don't ask me why I have only
3), factory Mitsu plugs
but am not sure if they are the right ones or
not. The part #
on the outside of the box reads MS 851502 then below
that it
says PK20PR-P11.
The plugs themselves are Nippondenso plugs.
They say Platinum
tipped "ND" on the outside of the box. Is
this the right plug
for a TT?
If so, I will just order three
more.
Thanks,
Rick
Florida
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 10:40:47 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Factory Spark Plugs?
- -----Original Message-----From: Rick D
<
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
>I
will be changing the plugs and wires in my dad's 92 R/T TT
this
weekend
>and wanted to know what I should install. I was
told to only use
factory
>Mitsu plugs.
>I have 3 (don't ask me
why I have only 3), factory Mitsu plugs but
am not
>sure if they are
the right ones or not. The part # on the outside
of the
>box
reads MS 851502 then below that it says PK20PR-P11.
>The plugs themselves
are Nippondenso plugs. They say Platinum
tipped "ND"
>on the
outside of the box. Is this the right plug for a TT?
>If so, I will
just order three more.
Yup... They are the right plugs.
The reason you have 3 left is
that the front ones are easy to replace, but
the rears require
removing the plenum, which isn't fun. When the
installer realized
that, they "chickened out" on the rest of the
install. Hence, 3
left-over plugs... Voila! Mystery
solved! :-)
If it's the first time you're doing the plugs, there's
a "how-to" on
the FAQ pages (under Maintenance). I haven't
had a chance to add it
to the page yet, but John T. Christian (JCZoom) just
sent me a great
tip/trick for keeping all the parts from getting lost,
falling into
places they shouldn't, etc...==> As you remove bolts,
gaskets,
etc., tie them together with a single length of string
(anchored
somewhere, of course). It's not part of the page yet, but
the
picture is already online at:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Images/Part-saver.jpgGood
luck!
Forrest
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 13:45:55 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
The 91 3000GT/Stealth
did not come with keyless entry from the factory. And
judging by the
description of the remote, it sounds like it is an
aftermarket unit.
I'm guessing you have an alarm installed on your vehicle
but the locks are
manual. But it is also possible that you have an
aftermarket keyless
entry installed too. I'd ask the previous
owner.
later,
Curt
MN 3/S #001
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
>Reply-To: <
sandie@netst.com>
>To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000
09:48:14 -0800
>
>I just bought a used VR4 ('91) that has a keyless
entry. So far all I've
>been able to do with it is set of the alarm... :(
It has a big button on
>the
>left and a little button on the right
(with a red light next to it). The
>little button causes the red light to
flash but the big button does not.
>Anyone know the correct combination
for this
unit?
>
>-MM
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 24 Mar 2000 07:49:14 +1200
From:
Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nzSubject: RE:
Team3S: Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
check in your engine bay
for the siren, that should have the brand name on
the back top of it.
From there you could contact an installer of that brand
and get them to hook
up your central locking.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Curt
Gendron [
mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Friday, 24 March 2000 7:46
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
The 91
3000GT/Stealth did not come with keyless entry from the factory.
And
judging by the description of the remote, it sounds like it is an
aftermarket unit. I'm guessing you have an alarm installed on your
vehicle
but the locks are manual. But it is also possible that you
have an
aftermarket keyless entry installed too. I'd ask the previous
owner.
later,
Curt
MN 3/S #001
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
"Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
>Reply-To: <
sandie@netst.com>
>To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Duh... How does my keyless entry work?
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000
09:48:14 -0800
>
>I just bought a used VR4 ('91) that has a keyless
entry. So far all I've
>been able to do with it is set of the alarm... :(
It has a big button on
>the
>left and a little button on the right
(with a red light next to it). The
>little button causes the red light to
flash but the big button does not.
>Anyone know the correct combination
for this
unit?
>
>-MM
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 14:45:32 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sport and Tour lights flashing
One more problem that my dad's car
is having is in the ECS. His sport and
tour lights are flashing
while driving. I looked in my 92 FSM and it
says to hook
up an analog volt meter. The problem is that I don't have an
analog meter. I have a DVOM. But that will do my no good.
I also have
the DRB II with Mitsu adapter. So, I figured I would just hook
up my DRB II
and check it out that way....
Well, when I go into
Suspension, it says "ECU ID not recognized". So
there is no way for me to check the darn codes! On first guess,
I would
think that the ECS is bad. But I hate to just throw parts at a
car. Does
anyone have any ideas?
The part number on the outside
of the ECS controller is MB 629056. It was
located in the rear
hatch area. (pass side rear inside quarter
panel). The wiring
going into it was all nice and secured. Nothing
visually out of
place.
I did look closely at the wiring going into the top of the strut
towers and
do not see any wires that look cut/frayed. Not sure what
else to look for
at this point... any help is appreciated.
I am
thinking bad controller at this point. Anyone else see one of these
Suspension controllers go bad?
Thanks
again,
Rick
Florida
94 R/T TT (everything works perfectly)
;)
92 R/T TT (multiple problems) dad's car----but for a 92 this puppy is
CLEAN
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:25:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sport and Tour lights flashing
Rick,
You can check the
on-board diagnostic output with a voltmeter
also. Look in your Service Manual
for instructions. You can also
check the individual sensors involved in the
ECS. Again, check
the manual for specs.
Jeff Lucius
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Rick D" <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 23, 2000 12:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: Sport and Tour lights
flashing
One more problem that my dad's car is having is in the
ECS.
His sport and tour lights are flashing while
driving. I
looked in my 92 FSM and it says to hook up an
analog volt meter.
The problem is that I don't have an analog
meter. I have a
DVOM. But that will do my no good. I also
have the DRB II with
Mitsu adapter. So, I figured I would just hook up my DRB
II and
check it out that way....
Well, when I go into Suspension, it
says "ECU ID not
recognized". So there is no way
for me to check the darn
codes! On first guess, I would think
that the ECS is bad. But
I hate to just throw parts at a car.
Does anyone have
any
ideas?
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 14:02:15 -0800
From: "Veilside GTO" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FYI - WWII vets: don't read this.
So what is your
point?
Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein GTO tt
Team
3S
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 3:18 PM
To:
stealth@dragnet.com;
stealth@starnet.net;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: FYI - WWII vets: don't read this.
DaimlerChrysler
Ponders
Bid for Mitsubishi Motors
T O K Y O, March 22 —
DaimlerChrysler and Japan’s Mitsubishi Motors moved
closer to a deal
today that is expected to give the German-U.S. automaker
effective control of
Mitsubishi and create the world’s third-largest
carmaking
group.
Mitsubishi Motors Corp President Katsuhiko
Kawasoe was authorized by
the board today to decide on an alliance with a
foreign company, which is
widely expected to give DaimlerChrysler AG at least
a 33.4 percent stake in
Mitsubishi and veto power over its board
decisions.
The effective takeover would provide
DaimlerChrysler with a
much-needed Asian base and small car expertise while
helping the Japanese
automaker with its heavy debt burden, which totaled 1.75
trillion yen
($16.4 billion) on a consolidated basis as of the end of
September.
Would Be 3rd-Largest
DaimlerChrysler and Mitsubishi make a
combined 6.5 million vehicles
annually, equivalent to the world’s
third-largest automotive group behind
U.S. giants General Motors Corp. and
Ford Motor Co.
A deal would also take the last
available Japanese carmaker out of the
pool of potential partners in the
global auto industry’s rush to
consolidate. Only Toyota Motor Corp. and
Honda Motor Co. remain as strong
independent
firms.
“In negotiations with a foreign
automaker, the board has entrusted the
president with decisions on an
alliance partner and the contents of the
alliance,” a Mitsubishi
spokesman said today.
2-Week Window
Although the company did not
identify who it is negotiating with, sources
say it is DaimlerChrysler and
that an announcement of a deal is likely in
the next two
weeks.
DaimlerChrysler Chief Executive Officer
Juergen Schrempp said on
Tuesday his company hoped to seal a deal with an
Asian automaker soon.
Both companies had become
increasingly isolated in the flurry of
global alliances involving Asian
automakers, especially after negotiations
between DaimlerChrysler and Nissan
Motor Co. collapsed a year ago and the
passenger car division of AB Volvo, a
key Mitsubishi partner, was bought
out by Ford.
Last year France’s Renault SA took a controlling minority stake
in
Nissan Motor Co. and General Motors Corp. bought a 20 percent stake in
Fuji
Heavy Industries, the maker of Subaru cars.
Structure
Unclear
Although it is not clear how the deal will be structured, a 33.4
percent
holding obtained through the issue of new shares would be valued
around
$1.86 billion, based on Mitsubishi Motors’ current share
price.
Mitsubishi’s shares ended down 1.2
percent today from the previous day.
“The
market reacted coolly as investors know after seeing the
Mazda-Ford alliance
and the Nissan-Renault tie-up that equity links with a
foreign auto giant
will not mean an overnight turnaround for Mitsubishi,”
said Seiji
Sugiura, auto analyst at Nomura
Securities.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 17:23:38 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Sport and Tour lights flashing
I HIGHLY doubt that the entire ECU is
bad. Rather, since the car is a '92,
I'd think that one of the
dampeners in one or more of the struts is sticking.
Before I'd spend a
couple hundred or more on an ECU, I'd spend $10.00 on an
analog voltmeter
and check the codes. You will save yourself a LOT of money.
Joe
91TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 14:46:17 -0800
From: Jim Watkins <
jwatkins@terayon.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sport and Tour lights flashing
Rick D wrote:
>
>
I did look closely at the wiring going into the top of the strut towers
and
> do not see any wires that look cut/frayed. Not sure what else
to look for
> at this point... any help is
appreciated.
>
Rick,
This problem is alamost always the wiring
in the shock tower adapters. What
happens is mechanics tend to lean on
the shock towers while working and the
wiring gets stressed where it goes
into the shock connector. I suggest taking
the adapters off and testing
each wire with an ohmmeter. If you wiggle the
wire in the area of the
shock connector (it is usually kinked here) you will
most likely find an
interrmittent connection. You cannot see it externally
because the wire
has seperated inside of the insulation. When you find it, you
have to
carefully solder a new piece of wire between the good part of the wire
and
the shock connector. Or, you can pay ~$75 for a new adapter and find
the
bad adapter by trial and error. I'm cheap, so I found the wire and
fixed it
:-)
Jim
91-VR4 (Super AVC-R, K&N FIPK,
13.5@109)
95-Spyder VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 24 Mar 2000 00:27:26 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: ADMIN : FYI - WWII vets: don't read this.
Please do not reply to
this topic on this list !!! This is against our rules. Do
NOT copy it when
doing crossposts to other lists, just keep the topic AWAY from
our list
!!
Roger for the admins
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:28:52 -0500
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 5-point safety belts?
Both of you (Tom and Jeff) asked
similar questions. Are you both going to
compete at the next
SSCC? May or September? I might make September. (let me
know
privately)
Yes, my stock seat belts still work, I didn't have to butcher
any of the
interior to make it work. I used the beefy 7/16" eye
bolts supplied with the
Willans harness for the crotch (2 of them - 6pt
harness) and lap straps (2)
leading to two eye bolts. Those two eye
bolts were put where the frame legs (at
rear of seat) fasten to the
body. Mitsu uses a much smaller bolt at this
location (M10?) but there
was enough metal in the plates for the larger eye
bolts (for me to drill and
retap - probably only english thread on my car). The
two tail straps
mount at the rear seat belt anchor points. There wasn't enough
room for
the eye bolts back there so I used some other brackets to make it
work.
It would be difficult to explain the details of the tail strap brackets,
just
remove the rear seat (easy to do) and look at the rear seat belt
anchor
points.
In the end, you have the ability to use either the
stock 3 point seat belt or
your new 6 point without drilling new holes and
adding plates. It looks sweet,
just take your time and don't cut
corners (It just might save your life). It
may have been easier for me
since I've got an aftermarket seat (Recaro SRDs).
If you plan on racing
at higher speeds in the future, you may want to just put
the 4 pt cage in now
(good up to 165mph) or 6 pt cage (good up to 180mph). Then
you'll have
excellent mounting point for the tail straps.
Tom - There is a link to my
seats and harness below.
BTW - There were two nearly stock VR-4s that ran
the 150 avg speed class last
September (I was in the 125 avg speed
class). One of the cars was disqualified
for exceeding 165 tech
speed. I hope to add more pics/info to my web site about
Open Road
Racing soon. It is the best time I've ever had with my
car.
Later,
Slo Joe
Chad Beeder wrote:
> When you say
you were able to use factory mounting locations, do you mean
> you were
able to install it without having to bolt or weld any new mount
>
points? If it's really that easy, that would be ideal. Did you leave
the
> regular seat belts installed as well? I wasn't able to tell
for sure from
> the picture.
>
> Sorry if these are stupid
questions, I'm a total newbie when it comes to
> modifying
cars.
>
> Thanks,
> Chad
>
> ----- Original
Message -----
> From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
> To:
Chad Beeder <
syzygy@eskimo.com>
> Sent: Monday,
March 20, 2000 5:57 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 5-point safety
belts?
>
> > I ran the 125 average last year. Had a blast,
check out my site for
> answers to
> > many of your
questions. Note, I recommend the Willans 6 point (5 point
>
works
> > best when you've got a hole in the middle of the seat near
the crotch).
> A 6
> > point is better for you should you get in
a wreck. I was able to use all
> factory
> > mounting
locations.
> >
> >
http://people.mw.mediaone.net/twinturbo/myinterior.html>
>
> > Later,
> > Slo Joe
> >
> > Chad
Beeder wrote:
> >
> > > My brother and I were kicking
around the idea of signing up for and
> running
> > > in the
Silver State Classic (
www.silverstateclassic.com).
It looks like
> > > good fun... I really don't have any prior racing
experience, but it
> sounds
> > > like for this race it's not
really necessary (and they require a 1-day
> > > performance driving
course prior to the event, which is something I'm
> > > interested
in anyway).
> > >
> > > >From reading their web site,
it sounds like first timers can sign up
> for the
> > > Grand
Touring class and run the race at a target speed of up to 125mph.
> >
> However, in order to enter in this class I need 5 or 6-point safety
>
belts.
> > >
> > > I haven't had much luck on the web
finding information about safety
> belts.
> > >
> >
> So... I turn to you folks, esteemed 3000GT performance experts, for
>
advice.
> > >
> > > How expensive are these safety
belts? Any recommendations on specific
> ones?
> > >
And, how hard are they to install and remove? Ideally I would want
>
> > something that can be installed and removed fairly easily without
major
> > > modifications to the car, as it is my daily driver and I
can't really
> see
> > > using 5-point belts just to drive to
work and back. But, it would be
> nice
> > > to be able
to put them on if I decided to go to the track or do
> autocross
>
> > type stuff. Is this feasible, or are these more of a permanent
thing?
> > >
> > > I'm pretty clueless when it comes to
racing, but this sure sounds like
> fun.
> > > :-) Would
appreciate any insight anyone can offer.
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #90
********************
