team3s            Wednesday, March 22 2000            Volume 01 : Number 089




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:31:09 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fiberglass Undertray

Well, properly designed, this would be great.  Poorly designed, and you
could have yourself a flying 3000GT.  Ideally, If it is perfectly flat, air
would flow much easier, and decrease CD (coefficient of drag).  Possibly a
little downforce would be nice too.  Worse case - it's angled wrong, you get
upforce instead of downforce so the car is squirrely at speed, and even
worse - you take off from the ground.  This happened to a Mercedes benz Race
Car.  Flat bottom car took off like 30' into the air and flew for 200 feet.
Not a fun situation, of course this was at 200 MPH, but still.

Cody


#I was surfing the net and I saw this guy who had a civic crx and he made a
#custom undertray for it out of fiberglass.  It looks fairly simple, it
#merely covered the bottom of the car.  So the question is, is this
#more of a
#gimmick or is there something to be gained (by our cars) by adding
#something
#like this?
#


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 21:34:41 EST
From: Jkmonnin@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Engine Rebuild help

My 91 VR4 developed a really bad bearing knock a few weeks ago, the dealer
said it needs a new engine.  I ordered a rebuild but is going to be $3200 w/o
installation and it might be several months before it arrives.   Since I will
have the option to NOT buy the rebuild when it arrives I want to try to tear
down the engine myself and see if I can get by with replacing the bearings. 
My only other engine rebuild experience was with a 69 Olds 350 and a 72
Pontiac 400.

I saw a quote on another newslist, whos name I won't mention, that said it
was possible to replace the bearings w/o removing the engine.   The car is
buried in the back of the garage so I haven't been able to look to see if
this is even remotely possible.

Anyone who has had thier engine rebuilt or has rebuilt their engines
themselves I would really appreciate any advice or tips.

John Monnin
91 Maroon 3000GT VR4
w/bad rod knocking
jkmonnin@aol.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 22:10:51 -0500
From: Rick <melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Perl Yellow?

Don't know how many,but there is an add for a 95 perl yellow TT.
63000mi. for $18500. in my area on Auto Trader.com  I think this is the
guys E-mail address
RHicks3925@aol.com  I don't know anything about the car and have'nt
seen it,just the add.Thought someone might be interested.Only seen one
and they are fine.

RICK #141 3si  '91 Red Base + R/T Stealths

Mihai wrote:

> Anybody know how many Perl Yellow TT Stealths were ever produced?
>
> Thanks a million to anyone who can help me.
>
> John.
> 94 Yellow TT, Michigan.
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 22:25:58 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2

> Make sure the TPS sensor reading is below 0.5V and the
> problem goes away.

I think I found the answer...  In attempting to adjust the TPS to the .4v value this evening, I discovered that it is basically a binary adjustment on pin 87 of the 94+ ECU - that actually connects to the "throttle closed switch" on the TPS.  The correct pin to connect the yellow wire of the ARC2-GP to would be pin 84, which reads the variable voltage output from the TPS.  Just discovered that by looking through the service manual and comparing the '92-93 ECU connections to the '94-99 connections and this seems like the right answer.  I guess I'll go out there and mess with it some more.

Has anyone actually put one of these things on a '94+, or is the wiring diagram hypothetical?  Or am I completely wrong and it should* connect to the throttle closed switch and not read the actual TPS value?

Ugh.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 22:56:00 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:Engine Rebuild help

Even if you CAN change the bearings with the motor in,
you don't want to, because it won't fix your problem truly.
If there is rod knock, that bearing is fried.
That journal on crank is scored and unusable the way it is.

The crank would need to be removed and turned
down, but since the nitride hardening is only surface
to a few thousandths deep, taking off .010" or whatever
it needs to clean up will remove the hardened thickness.
NOTE: the fried bearing may have scored off and heated
up that journal so badly that any heat treat/nitride is
already gone...my 94 with fried rod bearing had blued up
that journal on the crank, it had gotten so hot (red hot +!)

It is possible to turn the crank down and re-nitride harden
it...IF  IF  IF  you have a VERY competent machine shop
who has good nitride subcontractor or does it self.  By
the time you turn it and re-nitride it, get the undersized
bearings, re-balance the rotating assembly (well would
be very close as bearing is thicker by about same amount
as what's removed, so balance really should be about same
but pro would rebalance)...check crank for straightness
and indexing (crank throws in proper places, not degrees off)
(heating etc from fried bearing can warp it), clean out all
the oil passages from the metal crap from that fried
bearing (note:  that metal crap will be elsewhere in motor
also!)  you REALLY SHOULD remove motor,
get NEW crank at 25% discount from Tallahassee Mitsu
or Conicelli Mitsu etc, I think it's about
?$680; have block cleaned properly,
maybe change that rod with another used stocker,
as it may be worn/heated/bad too
  You may be cheapest off with the rebuild, you'd have
to sit down with your machine shop and/or dealer to
discuss it and lay it all out...

  '91 VR4's apparently had some weak bearings or
something, they had a few such events.  I took a '91
VR4 for a test drive before buying my 93 VR4 new...
that 91 had a ROD KNOCK when I drove it back
to that guy's house 8)  he had it repaired at the
dealer under warranty, I recall they just changed
the bearings/did not remove motor.  Dunno what they
did to the crank journal.  My buddy bought the car *}
and has had no probs since including Road America
driver school, but he otherwise babies it.
Ask the dealer if there is a "hidden warranty" for
weak bearings/rod knock failure...maybe they'll
bite.

If you plan to race it some, I'd put some forged JE pistons
in there while it's out.  Stock rods are fine really but there
are aftermarket options for a max effort engine.
This gets into $ though, unnecessary for stock rebuild
not to be raced.

Good luck!  Hope this was helpful...
Jack Tertadian

ps what kind of oil were you using, how often changed,
how many miles on motor, how long have you owned it,
how hard you driving/how much boost, ANY oil
additives like Prolong, Duralube etc (how long before
motor crapped if you added an additive?)

Jkmonnin@aol.com wrote:
91 VR4 developed bad bearing knock weeks ago, dealer

> said needs new engine.  rebuild is $3200 w/o
> install and might be months to arrive.  I want to try to tear
> down engine myself, see if I can get by with replacing bearings.
> My engine rebuild experience is 69 Olds 350 and 72 Pontiac 400.
> Somebody said it's possible to replace the bearings w/o removing engine.

I can relate, many Pontiac 400 removings, teardowns, buildings
under my belt  :)  my 79 TA with 400 is staring at me with a fried lower
end as we speak, from its fall 1998  10.4/131.6 all motor outing  :(



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:45:19 -0500 (EST)
From: ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
Subject: Team3S: Nitrous

Does anyone have experience with nitous? I am purchasing a small dry NOS
kit 50hp and am wondering about my fuel pump pressure. Is it adiquate
for a small shot like that, can anyone tell me if its safe and ok? IM
aware of proper plugs and higher octane.
Joe 92 RT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:57:58 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: race pads

Hi Jim,

Stick with the Porterfield R4.  The Expert at PF told me the same thing
about thje PF 83.  I tried the PF 83 on my '94 braking system and they
cut groves into my rotors and didn't even last one track day at Road
Atlanta.

The only way to get any decent pad life is to scrap the Mitsu brakes and
replace them with Brad's BIG RED system.



Be careful especially if you are a 91, 92 or 93.  You absolutely have to
practice brake management.


Did Road Atlanta again two weeks ago.  It rained on Sat so I just ran
street tires and my stock Porsche pads.  Couldn't even notice ANY wear
on the pads, but I did cord one of my street tires.

Be of good cheer
John

Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Just got off the phone with Porterfield Enterprises and the question
> is --- which of following pads are most bestest.
>
>  1 )  Porterfield R4 ---- Known and tested by several experts in our midst.
>        $170
>
>  2 )  Performance friction 90 compound --- They  [ Porterfield Enterprises ]
>        say that the 90 series is as good as the R4 but should last longer.
>        $225
>
> Any comments by our distinguished panel of not so world famous racers.
>
>    Jim Berry
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

- --
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:28:42 -0500
From: "Shawn Dewey" <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Cell Needed

Check with ATL in NJ

Aero Tec Laboratories (ATL)
Spear Road Industrial Park
Ramsey, NJ 07446-1251
800-526-5330
201-825-1400
http://www.atlinc.com

Purchased cell from them for 12 hour endurance car last year (SCCA)
and it worked very well.


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 1:04 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; stealth@starnet.net
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Cell Needed


Anyone aware of a 7 to 10 Gal Aluminum fuel cell
with a sender available for IMMEDIATE shipment?

The one I ordered (have) to use had no sender really need fast.
Any help appreciated. I tried Summit, Jegs, JC Whit all say week or two.
None in stock. They have larger ones but need only between 7 to 10 Gal.
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:57:51 -0500
From: "Michael Booker" <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: Somewhat Off topic, please reply privately.

I am having trouble with Mits. Not wanting to back up their products. I have
a foctory rebuilt auto trans. that recently blew up after 25K miles. I was
hoping Mits. could give me a break on parts because it failed so soon.
I have heard that they will help the 3K owners out with your quarter windows
peeling, and I would like to see if they can help me with my trans. Does
anybody have a phone number or contact person with Mits. Cust. Service that
I could speak to that could help me? I'd hate to, but if I can't get some
kind of help with this, then i'm going to have to give up on the Stealth.

Matt



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:20:26 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Update Us Please

Dave:

    Were you the proud owner of the TT that was having problems getting his
car started after changing the timing belt?  Did you get your car going? 
Please update us on what you did!

Thanks!

Joe 91TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 06:21:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2

Matt,

I have the ARC2 also but not yet installed it. I recently talked
with Mark at Split Second. He said the ACCEL function (the one
you need pin 87 (OBDII) or pin 67 (OBDI) for) just looks for low
voltage (idle) and high voltage (not-idle), with a threshhold of
1.5 volts, and low=0V and high=5V. Pin 87 is correct for you; it
is the idle position switch (IPS), physically in the same device
as the TPS.

The standard operation of the IPS is 0-1V at idle (mine is
0.015V) and >4V off idle (mine is 4.54V). You should connect to
pin 87. Double check it at the ECU with your ground at terminal
92 (72 on OBDI) to be sure that voltage at idle is less than 1
and off idle is >4. If it is not correct, rotating the Throttle
Position Sensor a little counter-clockwise may lower the value
some. A side effect will be that the TPS voltage also changes so
the throttle position value in the TMO datlogger output may not
relect the actual 100% open situation. Mine reads 95% at WOT
(100%=5V).

Hope this is helpful,

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Cc: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 9:25 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2


> Make sure the TPS sensor reading is below 0.5V and the
> problem goes away.

I think I found the answer...  In attempting to adjust the TPS
to the .4v value this evening, I discovered that it is basically
a binary adjustment on pin 87 of the 94+ ECU - that actually
connects to the "throttle closed switch" on the TPS.  The
correct pin to connect the yellow wire of the ARC2-GP to would
be pin 84, which reads the variable voltage output from the TPS.
Just discovered that by looking through the service manual and
comparing the '92-93 ECU connections to the '94-99 connections
and this seems like the right answer.  I guess I'll go out there
and mess with it some more.





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:19:18 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Plastic Defrost Cover Replacing.

Well, I hate to break the news. Mitsu engineers tapped the screws for these vents from UNDER the dash assembly. To do the job right(?), you'd have to pull the dash out to replace these vents. However, you can rip the old ones out, and replace using silicone adhesive to bond the parts together. I'd reccommend using black adhesive, (to match). Just make sure you have something to weigh down the edges while it cures.

I'll be doing this early next week, as I am having my windshield replaced. BTW, my parts total came to $70 US, (this was with the expedite fee),  What did you pay?

Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT

>>> Ryan Southwick <Ryan.Southwick@CMSHartzell.com> 03/21 4:52 PM >>>
Does anyone have any information on how long it takes to replace the plastic
defrost covers on the top of the dash.  Both of mine have cracked and
separated.  Thus I have the parts, but it looks like a pain to replace.
Anyone have any support for this one???

Cheers,
Ryan
91 VR4

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             !
                                  
                                     

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:26:07 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Nitrous

Hehe...  Nitrous is great.  You wil lbe fine with stock fuel pump, etc.  I
also purchased the NOS kit, and went with instead the largest shot included
in the package.  I went with the 70 hp shot with no problems at all.

'93 SL - 125,000 miles

Cody


#Does anyone have experience with nitous? I am purchasing a small dry NOS
#kit 50hp and am wondering about my fuel pump pressure. Is it adiquate
#for a small shot like that, can anyone tell me if its safe and ok? IM
#aware of proper plugs and higher octane.
#Joe 92 RT
#
#
#***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
#


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:36:12 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Perl Yellow?

Interesting. I was under  the impression that Pearl Yellow was an option only on 94's...

Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT

>>> Rick <melvin@gamewood.net> 03/21 7:10 PM >>>
Don't know how many,but there is an add for a 95 perl yellow TT.
63000mi. for $18500. in my area on Auto Trader.com  I think this is the
guys E-mail address
RHicks3925@aol.com  I don't know anything about the car and have'nt
seen it,just the add.Thought someone might be interested.Only seen one
and they are fine.

RICK #141 3si  '91 Red Base + R/T Stealths

Mihai wrote:

> Anybody know how many Perl Yellow TT Stealths were ever produced?
>
> Thanks a million to anyone who can help me.
>
> John.
> 94 Yellow TT, Michigan.
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             !
                                  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:07:11 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: race pads

>
> Stick with the Porterfield R4.  The Expert at PF told me the same thing
> about the PF 83.  I tried the PF 83 on my '94 braking system and they
> cut groves into my rotors and didn't even last one track day at Road
> Atlanta.

Hmmm --- they were pushing the 90 compound, she said it would last
longer than the R4 from porterfield. I'd like to experiment with the 90 but
I'll probably stick with the R4 that every one else seems happy with.
=================================================

> The only way to get any decent pad life is to scrap the Mitsu brakes and
> replace them with Brad's BIG RED system.

I have Brads brakes installed, however no cooling ducts yet. Willow springs
is a medium speed track but I'll probably be conservative since I haven't raced
the car yet.
==================================================

> Be careful especially if you are a 91, 92 or 93.  You absolutely have to
> practice brake management.

Question ---- I bought the brakes from David Skultiety who raced his car
regularly before it got totaled in a street accident. He said he disabled the
ABS at the track because of the violent grabbing of the rotors with the
ABS on. Anyone with similar experiences.


    Jim  Berry



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:10:23 -0500
From: "Manoj Prasad" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Plastic Defrost Cover Replacing.

Don,

I paid $17.00 per vent and $8.00 shipping from Tallahassee Mitsubishi. Plus
a couple of dollars for the silicone.  I have had mine in for over 9 months
and they have not moved.

Rgds
Moe P

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Dan Jett
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 10:19 AM
To: Ryan.Southwick@CMSHartzell.com; team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Plastic Defrost Cover Replacing.


Well, I hate to break the news. Mitsu engineers tapped the screws for these
vents from UNDER the dash assembly. To do the job right(?), you'd have to
pull the dash out to replace these vents. However, you can rip the old ones
out, and replace using silicone adhesive to bond the parts together. I'd
reccommend using black adhesive, (to match). Just make sure you have
something to weigh down the edges while it cures.

I'll be doing this early next week, as I am having my windshield replaced.
BTW, my parts total came to $70 US, (this was with the expedite fee),  What
did you pay?

Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT

>>> Ryan Southwick <Ryan.Southwick@CMSHartzell.com> 03/21 4:52 PM >>>
Does anyone have any information on how long it takes to replace the plastic
defrost covers on the top of the dash.  Both of mine have cracked and
separated.  Thus I have the parts, but it looks like a pain to replace.
Anyone have any support for this one???

Cheers,
Ryan
91 VR4


!



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:10:39 -0500
From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Update Us Please

I think that I did post some results after I got my car going again.  I case
you missed it, here is what happened:

  6 bent valves
+ 1 tow truck to mechanic
+ 1 bill for $1,800
+ 1 heavy does of humility
+ drop in oil pressure after I got it back
+ 1 HUGE hassle with Wrenchead.com getting my parts
+ noisy valve or two so it has to go back
- ---------------------------------------------------
= probably send it to mechanic next time

The 60K service
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TrboDrvr@aol.com [mailto:TrboDrvr@aol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 6:20 AM
> To: dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Update Us Please
>
>
> Dave:
>
>     Were you the proud owner of the TT that was having
> problems getting his
> car started after changing the timing belt?  Did you get your
> car going?
> Please update us on what you did!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joe 91TT
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:42:41 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Nitrous

- -----Original Message-----From: cody <overclck@flash.net>
>Hehe...  Nitrous is great.  You wil lbe fine with stock fuel pump,
etc.  I
>also purchased the NOS kit, and went with instead the largest shot
included
>in the package.  I went with the 70 hp shot with no problems at
all.



Read all about what NOT to do with Nitrous on the FAQ pages, under
mods...

www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQnitrousX.htm

Best,

Forrest




***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 12:53:16 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Nitrous

Ya know - They claim a malfunctioning safety valve.  I guess this is the
valve on the bottle itself.  Because if the valve that wasn't working was
after the actual "on" valve on the bottle, then it wouldn't have made any
difference.

Point is - they left the heater on when they shouldn't have.  I think the
main reason that there was a problem is that the pressure sensor that causes
the heater to turn off wasn't allowed any pressure, because the valve to the
bottle wasn't turned on.  The pressure kept building inside the bottle, but
the press. sensor had no idea what was going on.  I wonder how how it would
have to get to explode like that.

Cody

#Read all about what NOT to do with Nitrous on the FAQ pages, under
#mods...
#
#www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQnitrousX.htm
#


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:56:42 -0500
From: Rick D <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Quarter windows peeling?

Not to change the subject, but when you say "quarter windows peeling" are
you referring to the interior trim panels that run along the rear of our
cars from the rear speaker to the trunk area?  If so, I am curious as to
how Mitsu "helps us out".  Mine are like "bowed" down at an angle right
where it meets the quarter window.  It almost looks as if the sun has
warped them or something.

Thanks,

Rick

At 08:57 AM 3/22/00 -0500, Michael Booker wrote:
>I am having trouble with Mits. Not wanting to back up their products. I have
>a foctory rebuilt auto trans. that recently blew up after 25K miles. I was
>hoping Mits. could give me a break on parts because it failed so soon.
>I have heard that they will help the 3K owners out with your quarter windows
>peeling, and I would like to see if they can help me with my trans. Does
>anybody have a phone number or contact person with Mits. Cust. Service that
>I could speak to that could help me? I'd hate to, but if I can't get some
>kind of help with this, then i'm going to have to give up on the Stealth.
>
>Matt
>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:21:06 -0500
From: "Manoj Prasad" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Quarter windows peeling?

The quarter windows are on the outside, right behind the driver and
passenger windows.  They are only on the 3000GT's not Stealth.  They are
suppose to be shinny black and smooth.  The problems is that they fade, turn
flat black and feel like cardboard.

Rgds
Moe P

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Rick D
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 2:57 PM
To: Michael Booker; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Re: Quarter windows peeling?


Not to change the subject, but when you say "quarter windows peeling" are
you referring to the interior trim panels that run along the rear of our
cars from the rear speaker to the trunk area?  If so, I am curious as to
how Mitsu "helps us out".  Mine are like "bowed" down at an angle right
where it meets the quarter window.  It almost looks as if the sun has
warped them or something.

Thanks,

Rick

At 08:57 AM 3/22/00 -0500, Michael Booker wrote:
>I am having trouble with Mits. Not wanting to back up their products. I
have
>a foctory rebuilt auto trans. that recently blew up after 25K miles. I was
>hoping Mits. could give me a break on parts because it failed so soon.
>I have heard that they will help the 3K owners out with your quarter
windows
>peeling, and I would like to see if they can help me with my trans. Does
>anybody have a phone number or contact person with Mits. Cust. Service that
>I could speak to that could help me? I'd hate to, but if I can't get some
>kind of help with this, then i'm going to have to give up on the Stealth.
>
>Matt
>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 18:06:33 -0500 (EST)
From: ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
Subject: Team3S: tick

On my RT i hear a definate tick from the covers sounds like 1 lifter, I
call a dealer looks like at least $1300 whether its a worn cam or upper
or lower train, is this serious and does anyone know if I can get parts
other then dealer?
Ive only had this car two weeks and the dealer says its normal wear and
not covered
Joe 92 RT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:18:26 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: FYI - WWII vets: don't read this.

DaimlerChrysler Ponders
Bid for Mitsubishi Motors

T O K Y O, March 22 — DaimlerChrysler and Japan’s Mitsubishi Motors moved
closer to a deal today that is expected to give the German-U.S. automaker
effective control of Mitsubishi and create the world’s third-largest
carmaking group.
     Mitsubishi Motors Corp President Katsuhiko Kawasoe was authorized by
the board today to decide on an alliance with a foreign company, which is
widely expected to give DaimlerChrysler AG at least a 33.4 percent stake in
Mitsubishi and veto power over its board decisions.
     The effective takeover would provide DaimlerChrysler with a
much-needed Asian base and small car expertise while helping the Japanese
automaker with its heavy debt burden, which totaled 1.75 trillion yen
($16.4 billion) on a consolidated basis as of the end of September.
Would Be 3rd-Largest
DaimlerChrysler and Mitsubishi make a combined 6.5 million vehicles
annually, equivalent to the world’s third-largest automotive group behind
U.S. giants General Motors Corp. and Ford Motor Co.
     A deal would also take the last available Japanese carmaker out of the
pool of potential partners in the global auto industry’s rush to
consolidate. Only Toyota Motor Corp. and Honda Motor Co. remain as strong
independent firms.
     “In negotiations with a foreign automaker, the board has entrusted the
president with decisions on an alliance partner and the contents of the
alliance,” a Mitsubishi spokesman said today.

2-Week Window
Although the company did not identify who it is negotiating with, sources
say it is DaimlerChrysler and that an announcement of a deal is likely in
the next two weeks.
     DaimlerChrysler Chief Executive Officer Juergen Schrempp said on
Tuesday his company hoped to seal a deal with an Asian automaker soon.
     Both companies had become increasingly isolated in the flurry of
global alliances involving Asian automakers, especially after negotiations
between DaimlerChrysler and Nissan Motor Co. collapsed a year ago and the
passenger car division of AB Volvo, a key Mitsubishi partner, was bought
out by Ford.
     Last year France’s Renault SA took a controlling minority stake in
Nissan Motor Co. and General Motors Corp. bought a 20 percent stake in Fuji
Heavy Industries, the maker of Subaru cars.

Structure Unclear
Although it is not clear how the deal will be structured, a 33.4 percent
holding obtained through the issue of new shares would be valued around
$1.86 billion, based on Mitsubishi Motors’ current share price.
     Mitsubishi’s shares ended down 1.2 percent today from the previous day.
     “The market reacted coolly as investors know after seeing the
Mazda-Ford alliance and the Nissan-Renault tie-up that equity links with a
foreign auto giant will not mean an overnight turnaround for Mitsubishi,”
said Seiji Sugiura, auto analyst at Nomura Securities.





***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:05:16 -0500
From: Mihai <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: engine chocking?

I am the guy that has the problem with the oil warning light.  Here was the previous message as background information.  If you have already read it, please go to the 3rd paragraph concerning my new problem...

I have a 94 TT (stock) with 60,000 miles.  I have not done the 60K recommended
tune up yet.  Recently, on two different ocasions, right about when my oil was
due for a change, my oil pressure warning light came on intermidetly, and not
at regular intervals.  I thought I just needed an oil change, so I did that.  I
even changed to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30 from regular Mobil 1 oil.  My oil
pressure gauge indicates 4 nothches from the bottom (25%) while idling and
about 10 notches from the bottom (66%) while driving on the highway at
3000RPM.  In my opinion, it is rather high compared to all the other TT I have
seen (I think its good).  Once I changed the oil, the warning light did not
reapear untill 1400 miles later.  Nevertheless, I am somewhat worried about my
yellow baby.  My brother has a 93 base stealth with 110K miles and he has never
seen this warning light before.  I do not even know where to begin other than
taking it to a dealer and being without a car for two weeks and probably geting
my car back and them telling me there is nothing wrong (talking from past
experience).

****New problem******
Today, after driving the car under normal conditions for about a half an hour, I parked the car and went into a store to buy something.  20 to 30 minutes later, when I leave the store and try to start the engine, it starts, but the RPM kept fluctuating between 500 to 1000RPM and eventually the engine quit after about 5 seconds.  I noticed the engine temperature was still roughly in the same spot where I had left it almost a half an hour earlier.  And you know how the engine is supposed to idle at about 2000RPM initially and
gradually drop down to the recommended 700 or so.  Well, I guess the engine was warm enough and the car wanted to idle at the 700 range, but it couldn't.  I then started the engine again and the same thing happened.  The worse is yet to come.  I figured that if I just gave it some gas, it should keep the engine going.  Well, that didn't work either as it killed the engine even quicker.  After several tries more, I finally started to pump the gas rapidly and the engine finally took off.  Afterwards, everything seemed to be fine.
Nevertheless, it took me about 7 tries to start the engine which totally scares me since the car is not that old (94) and it does not have that many miles (60,000).  The only real change that the car has experienced has been that I changed from regular oil to synthetic, but I thought synthetic is better.  This sort of an incident has happened to me before, but it was a rather symple fix since I just gave it a litle gas and it acted like there was nothing wrong.  This other incident happened about half a year ago.  Can anybody
help me in what the problem might be?  Could the car be acting up since I did not give it its 60K recommended tune up?

Thanks in advance for any help.

John 94 Yellow TT, Westland, Michigan.


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #89
********************