team3s
Tuesday, March 21
2000
Volume 01 : Number
088
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 19:07:30 -0700 (MST)
From:
JAMEYCHAR@webtv.net (JAMEY
BLOCK)
Subject: Team3S: Motor problems
Could anybody tell me if
a 94 four bolt main engine will bolt up in my
93 which is a two bolt
main??? Or if there is any problems you could
tell me
about.
Jamey 93 ES STEALTH
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 21:20:54 -0500
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Motor problems
The '93 motor is a 4 bolt main.
Mark W.
At
07:07 PM 3/20/00 -0700, you wrote:
> Could anybody tell me if a 94
four bolt main engine will bolt up in my
>93 which is a two bolt
main??? Or if there is any problems you could
>tell me
about.
>
>
Jamey 93 ES STEALTH
>
>
>***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 21:28:51 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Motor problems
There was a production split in early 93 (I
believe) which made the
difference between a 4 bolt and a 2 bolt
block.
Yes the 4 bolt will bolt up. There are only a few
minor differences. The
oil pan and rear main seal plate being the
important "fitment" problems.
Brad
Check out my home
page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of JAMEY BLOCK
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 8:08 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Motor problems
Could anybody tell me if a 94 four bolt
main engine will bolt up in my
93 which is a two bolt main??? Or if
there is any problems you could
tell me
about.
Jamey 93 ES STEALTH
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 20:10:49 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Porterfield R4 pads
I'm looking to buy a set of Porterfield race pads ---
the Porterfield site
seems to be down, anyplace else I can look to buy
them.
I have a race date coming up in two weeks so time is
short.
Jim Berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 22:29:10 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Porterfield R4 pads
>I'm looking to buy a set of
Porterfield race pads --- the Porterfield site
>seems to be down, anyplace
else I can look to buy them.
>I have a race date coming up in two weeks so
time is short.
>
Call them directly
at:
949/548-4470
800/537-6842
949/548-7783
or fax to
714/548-7783
If none of those work, go to their offices at:
1767
Placentia Ave
Costa Mesa CA 92627
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/used to run
'em.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 05:40:58 GMT
From:
aa2345@wayne.eduSubject: Team3S: Oil
Pressure Warning Light QUESTION???
I have a 94 TT (stock) with 60,000
miles. I have not done the 60K recommended
tune up yet.
Recently, on two different ocasions, right about when my oil was
due for a
change, my oil pressure warning light came on intermidetly, and not
at
regular intervals. I thought I just needed an oil change, so I did
that. I
even changed to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30 from regular Mobil 1
oil. My oil
pressure gauge indicates 4 nothches from the bottom (25%)
while idling and
about 10 notches from the bottom (66%) while driving on the
highway at
3000RPM. In my opinion, it is rather high compared to all
the other TT I have
seen (I think its good). Once I changed the oil,
the warning light did not
reapear untill 1400 miles later.
Nevertheless, I am somewhat worried about my
yellow baby. My brother
has a 93 base stealth with 110K miles and he has never
seen this warning
light before. I do not even know where to begin other than
taking it
to a dealer and being without a car for two weeks and probably geting
my car
back and them telling me there is nothing wrong (talking from past
experience). Thanks in advance for any help.
John 94
Yellow TT, Michigan
-
---------------------------------------------
Wayne State University
Undergraduate Library
Content does not represent the views of the
Library.
http://www.ugl.wayne.edu/***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 03:40:51 -0500
From: Mihai <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Perl
Yellow?
Anybody know how many Perl Yellow TT Stealths were ever
produced?
Thanks a million to anyone who can help me.
John.
94
Yellow TT, Michigan.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 09:37:36 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Pressure Warning Light QUESTION???
This is the oil pressure
switch that is bad. I have it replaced twice since the last 20k miles and it
still lights up when the oil level is lower than the top notch.
Do the
60k service asap, let them do a good engine flush and replace the pressure
switch.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> seen this warning light
before. I do not even know where to begin other than
> taking it to
a dealer and being without a car for two weeks and probably geting
> my
car back and them telling me there is nothing wrong (talking from past
>
experience). Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> John
94 Yellow TT, Michigan
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 02:47:41 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Split-Sec ARC-2
I decided to wire mine up tonight and see how it
works... Unfortunately the initial test isn't very successful. My
car barely idles, and idles very* rich - full "blue" on the meter that
comes with it - above .95v continually. If I adjust the "Accel"
dial, it doesn't do anything, just the low/medium dials seem to do
anything. Something seems really wacky with the particular unit I
have. I cut the wires for the upgraded airmeter and put my factory MAS
back on and at least now the car runs well again so I can drive to
work.
I tried playing with the TPS, but I don't have a scan tool or the
special wiring harness to properly test the TPS. I moved it in small
increments until it got to the "best response" possible, however the
idle was still whacked.
I dunno... I had settings at about
9-o'clock on the Low dial, 10-o'clock on the Medium, 4-o'clock on the high, and
it didn't matter a single bit where the Accel dial was set. I got decent
throttle response in the midrange at those settings, but the high end actually
got lean. When the power comes on, it comes on quite well, but I'm afraid
there might be something wrong with it.
I'm still using the stock
injectors and turbos, so I shouldn't be encountering flow problems. If I
run my car all the way up to redline at the usual boost levels I use with the
stock airmeter attached (18 psi in the midrange, dropping to about 13 psi at
redline), the A/F ratio meter stays full rich (.95V+) so the fuel system appears
to be able to supply sufficient fuel in the car's current state of
modification.
Any suggestions? I'll call/e-mail Dynamic Racing in
the morning, but I wanted to bounce my problems by the list to see if I
overlooked something.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:16:29 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2
Matt,
You must adjust the TPS until the
reading is below 0.5V at idle, you can easily read it with a voltmeter. Check
out my website for more details as I will also provide a little fix soon (I have
to measure some parts first). Please note, the ECU must be resetted top learn
and you will adjust over the days.
The settings for the stock injectors
are :
Low : +4%
Med : -16%
High : +12%
Accell : -16%
Please
also note that I'm using WI and therefore the high setting is not that high as
it will be on yours. Your settings may be one click richer or leaner, as my
setting is optimized for knock.
> I dunno... I had settings at
about 9-o'clock on the Low dial, 10-o'clock on the Medium, 4-o'clock on the
high, and it didn't matter a single bit where the Accel dial was set. I
got decent throttle response in the midrange at those settings, but the high end
actually got lean. When the power comes on, it comes on quite well, but
I'm afraid there might be something wrong with it.
No, only your
settings.
> I'm still using the stock injectors and turbos, so I
shouldn't be encountering flow problems. If I run my car all the way up to
redline at the usual boost levels I use with the stock airmeter attached (18 psi
in the midrange, dropping to about 13 psi at redline), the A/F ratio meter stays
full rich (.95V+) so the fuel system appears to be able to supply sufficient
fuel in the car's current state of modification.
No, rich is not rich
enough. Look at my site and you can see the datalogs there. You can have all
segments illuminated what represents 0.96-1V but it could be still not enough to
prevent knock.
Unfortunately, I wouldn't know how to tune it in perfectly
without a scan tool that shows me knock !!
> Any suggestions?
I'll call/e-mail Dynamic Racing in the morning, but I wanted to bounce my
problems by the list to see if I overlooked something.
Better speak
directly with Brian from GT PRO as they get it directly from him
too.
Good luck tuning it in
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 07:10:10 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
DSM shootout 2000
TIM YERKES wrote:
> anyone have any info on
this? Dates? Places? Registration? Cost?
>
anyone......?
DSM Shootout 2000 (3000/Stealths
Encouraged!)
Norwalk Dragway, Norwalk Ohio
Friday July 21
= Dragrace
Sat July 22 =
Autocross and Car Show
Sun July 23 = IDRC
Import Drag Racing ALL-Brands
Shootout
sponsored by Sport Compact Car and Summit Racing
Don't yet know cost, but
it is ON!
My friends and I already have 2 rooms booked at local
hotel.
Might be info on buschurracing.com
;
www.dsm.org has some info, under Events
(click on "more") but details are
upcoming.
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 06:03:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2
Hi Roger,
I was wondering how you
wired in your ARC to the ECU. The TPS
pin is #64 (OBDI ECU). The IPS is pin
#67 (OBDI ECU). The manual
indicates to use pin #67, so TPS voltage is not
important. My
conversation with Mark at Split Second said the
threshold
voltage is 1.5 for the ACCEL function, so normal IPS low
voltage
should be more than fine (0.015V on my car) in any case (0.5
or
1.5V).
Just curious as I have not yet installed the unit. I am
working
on a convenient-to-disconnect wiring harness for
everything.
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 21, 2000 2:16 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Split-Sec
ARC-2
Matt,
You must adjust the TPS until the reading is below
0.5V at idle,
you can easily read it with a
voltmeter....
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:52:54 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2
>> I dunno... I had settings at about
9-o'clock on the Low dial,
>> 10-o'clock on the Medium, 4-o'clock on
the high, and it didn't
>> matter a single bit where the Accel dial was
set. I got decent
>> throttle response in the midrange at those
settings, but the high
>> end actually got lean. When the power
comes on, it comes on quite
>> well, but I'm afraid there might be
something wrong with it.
> No, only your settings.
Those were
the only settings where the car would idle and be able to rev to redline with
the clutch engaged. Any other settings (including the GTPro-suggested
settings) would cause the car to cut out as RPM increased, die, and then come
back near idle or slightly higher. I'm pretty sure that's not
right.
I'll use your suggestions on your website to accurately adjust the
TPS tonight, run the car for a few days and then try the upgraded MAF
again.
> No, rich is not rich enough. Look at my site and you can see
the
> datalogs there. You can have all segments illuminated what
>
represents 0.96-1V but it could be still not enough to prevent
knock.
I've got water injection, so knock shouldn't be a problem.
If a datalogger was available for my car, I would own one - but no such luck to
help me tune it in. :-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Gettin'
there!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:31:10 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to time.....
Quick question for
the collective...
Every now and again (lately) when I take off kind of
quick from a light, or
when I take a turn real fast, my "brake"
light comes on. I spoke to a
buddy of mine who has a 92 R/T TT and he
seemed to think it was the e-brake
handle lifting up slightly. But I
know *for sure* now that this is *not*
the case. I know this
because I took off kind of quick from a stop (on
purpose) and made sure the
e-brake was all the way down, and the brake
light still came
on. So, I am thinking maybe the "G-switch" is
bad? What do you guys think?
I have a DRB II with the Mitsu
adapter but it doesn't work on my OBDI 94
car. So, if I can't figure
this one out on soon, I will just have my buddy
bring home the DRB III from
work one day and we will hook it up and see if
there are any codes in the
ABS system, or any regular fault codes for that
matter. Also, since I
will have the DRB III hooked up, I will be able to
look at o2 voltages at
WOT. My question is what should my o2 voltage be at
WOT at 17-18psi
with the 13 turbos and 550cc injectors (and AFC). I do
have the
cartech intercoolers and hard pipe kit, but no water
injection.
Thanks.,
Rick
Florida
94 R/T TT
"The
banana"
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:39:27 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to time.....
You are low on brake
fluid, fill it up and you will be fine. (Don't spill,
this stuff is
nasty!)
/Mikael
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
To:
R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>; <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 21, 2000 4:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brake light comes on from
time to time.....
Quick question for the collective...
Every
now and again (lately) when I take off kind of quick from a light, or
when I
take a turn real fast, my "brake" light comes on. I spoke to
a
buddy of mine who has a 92 R/T TT and he seemed to think it was the
e-brake
handle lifting up slightly. But I know *for sure* now that this
is *not*
the case. I know this because I took off kind of quick
from a stop (on
purpose) and made sure the e-brake was all the way down, and
the brake
light still came on. So, I am thinking maybe the
"G-switch" is
bad? What do you guys think?
I have a
DRB II with the Mitsu adapter but it doesn't work on my OBDI 94
car.
So, if I can't figure this one out on soon, I will just have my buddy
bring
home the DRB III from work one day and we will hook it up and see if
there
are any codes in the ABS system, or any regular fault codes for
that
matter. Also, since I will have the DRB III hooked up, I will be
able to
look at o2 voltages at WOT. My question is what should my o2
voltage be at
WOT at 17-18psi with the 13 turbos and 550cc injectors (and
AFC). I do
have the cartech intercoolers and hard pipe kit, but no
water injection.
Thanks.,
Rick
Florida
94 R/T
TT
"The banana"
***Info:
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***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:23:36 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2
> I was wondering how you wired in your ARC to
the ECU. The TPS
> pin is #64 (OBDI ECU). The IPS is pin #67 (OBDI ECU).
The manual
> indicates to use pin #67, so TPS voltage is not
important.
Both are related. When you adjust the TPS sensor also the IPS
voltage got affected. My setup did not work well with any TPS reading above
0.5V. Unfortunately, our IPS switch has a linearity in between the points and
doesn't just switch on/off. I used pin 67 what is IPS.
> Just curious
as I have not yet installed the unit. I am working
> on a
convenient-to-disconnect wiring harness for everything.
I used simply
connectors that can be disconnected for every wire. Simple install as well as
simply disabled when necessary.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:43:30 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Split-Sec ARC-2
> Those were the only settings where the car
would idle and be able to rev to redline with the clutch engaged.
Yes, I
know, been there done that :-)
> Any other settings (including
the GTPro-suggested settings) would cause the car to cut out as RPM increased,
die, and then come back near idle or slightly higher.
Make sure the TPS
sensor reading is below 0.5V and the problem goes away.
> I'll use
your suggestions on your website to accurately adjust the TPS tonight, run the
car for a few days and then try the upgraded MAF again.
Just don't use
the LOW setting, it is a typo and I have to change this ASAP with my current
good settings.
> I've got water injection, so knock shouldn't be a
problem. If a datalogger was available for my car, I would own one - but
no such luck to help me tune it in. :-(
Just make sure not to
"overcool". It is definitely the case on my current system as I use
too much water ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:23:05 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield R4 pads
Jim, try:
http://www.racesearch.com/They are
actualy a little cheaper than buying directly from porterfield.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim
Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
"starnet" <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Monday,
March 20, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Porterfield R4 pads
>
I'm looking to buy a set of Porterfield race pads --- the Porterfield
site
> seems to be down, anyplace else I can look to buy them.
> I
have a race date coming up in two weeks so time is
short.
>
> Jim
Berry
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:58:06 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: race
pads
Just got off the phone with Porterfield Enterprises and the
question
is --- which of following pads are most bestest.
1 )
Porterfield R4 ---- Known and tested by several experts in our
midst.
$170
2 ) Performance
friction 90 compound --- They [ Porterfield Enterprises
]
say that the 90 series is as good as
the R4 but should last longer.
$225
Any comments by our distinguished panel of not so world famous
racers.
Jim Berry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:08:09 -0500
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to time.....
This can also
happen because of an e-brake cable that is going loose due to
it
seizing. Usually pretty easy to tell because the handle comes up
very
easily.
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC,
Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Rick D
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 7:31 AM
> To: R.G.;
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to
time.....
>
>
> Quick question for the
collective...
>
> Every now and again (lately) when I take off kind
of quick
> from a light, or
> when I take a turn real fast, my
"brake" light comes on. I
> spoke to a
> buddy of
mine who has a 92 R/T TT and he seemed to think it
> was the
e-brake
> handle lifting up slightly. But I know *for sure* now
that
> this is *not*
> the case. I know this because I
took off kind of quick from
> a stop (on
> purpose) and made sure
the e-brake was all the way down, and
> the brake
> light still came
on. So, I am thinking maybe the "G-switch"
is
> bad? What do you guys think?
>
> I have a DRB II
with the Mitsu adapter but it doesn't work on
> my OBDI 94
>
car. So, if I can't figure this one out on soon, I will just
> have
my buddy
> bring home the DRB III from work one day and we will hook
it
> up and see if
> there are any codes in the ABS system, or any
regular fault
> codes for that
> matter. Also, since I will
have the DRB III hooked up, I
> will be able to
> look at o2
voltages at WOT. My question is what should my o2
> voltage be
at
> WOT at 17-18psi with the 13 turbos and 550cc injectors (and
>
AFC). I do
> have the cartech intercoolers and hard pipe kit, but no
water
> injection.
>
> Thanks.,
>
> Rick
>
Florida
> 94 R/T TT
> "The banana"
>
>
>
***Info:
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>
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 11:29:30 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: race pads
> 1 ) Porterfield R4 ---- Known and tested
by several experts in our midst.
>
$170
I recommend these. Price is kinda high. Ask for a 3S discount. They
may
give you 15-20% off.
If they start turning white at the edges, you
are running temps of 1400 F,
and you'll eat the pads up in one day. Be sure
to cool these puppies with
air ducts or practice good brake management. The
only way I got mine to
last an entire weekend was to not brake until the car
is below 100 mph.
This pisses off the 911 you just passed on the straight,
but that's OK.
You'll run away from him in the twisty bits
anyway.
Rich/old poop
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 13:03:59 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Fuel Cell Needed
Anyone aware of a 7 to 10 Gal Aluminum fuel cell
with a sender
available for IMMEDIATE shipment?
The one I ordered (have) to use had no
sender really need fast.
Any help appreciated. I tried Summit, Jegs, JC Whit
all say week or two.
None in stock. They have larger ones but need only
between 7 to 10 Gal.
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:53:51 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Just ordered a pair of CD/Treated
porterfield rotors from the VR4 and Supra,
R4-S's for both cars, and a pair
of R4-Es for the driving school..and a half
gallon of 5.1 Motul fluid..coz Im
out again.
We'll see *grin*
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Monday, March 13, 2000 2:36 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
> I'll probly go with just
front rotors and R.4-S pads.
R4S is the street pad and would probably be
great for autocrossing. However, if
you plan on going to road tracks a
few times (Thunderhill, Sears Point :O), you
might want to get the R4 racing
pads and use them only for the track. They
should last a lot longer
under extreme braking conditions than street pads. You
could use stock
or another set of street pads for the street.
- -Ken
P.S.
Maybe we can meet up at Buttonwillow raceway sometime in the Spring
or
Summer. Check out
http://www.open-track.com/ and
http://www.touringcarclub.com/for
schedules.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 21:04:18 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to time.....
The brake fluid
is low, and when on a hard turn, the fluid slants, tripping
the
light.
- ----Original Message Follows----
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
To:
"R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>, <
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake light comes on from time to time.....
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000
10:31:10 -0500
Quick question for the collective...
Every now and
again (lately) when I take off kind of quick from a light, or
when I take a
turn real fast, my "brake" light comes on. I spoke to a
buddy
of mine who has a 92 R/T TT and he seemed to think it was the e-brake
handle
lifting up slightly. But I know *for sure* now that this is *not*
the
case. I know this because I took off kind of quick from a stop
(on
purpose) and made sure the e-brake was all the way down, and the
brake
light still came on. So, I am thinking maybe the
"G-switch" is
bad? What do you guys think?
I have a
DRB II with the Mitsu adapter but it doesn't work on my OBDI 94
car.
So, if I can't figure this one out on soon, I will just have my buddy
bring
home the DRB III from work one day and we will hook it up and see if
there
are any codes in the ABS system, or any regular fault codes for
that
matter. Also, since I will have the DRB III hooked up, I will be
able to
look at o2 voltages at WOT. My question is what should my o2
voltage be at
WOT at 17-18psi with the 13 turbos and 550cc injectors (and
AFC). I do
have the cartech intercoolers and hard pipe kit, but no
water injection.
Thanks.,
Rick
Florida
94 R/T
TT
"The banana"
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Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 13:14:53 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel Cell Needed
> Anyone aware of a 7 to 10 Gal Aluminum fuel cell
> with a sender available for IMMEDIATE shipment?
>
> The
one I ordered (have) to use had no sender really need fast.
> Any help
appreciated. I tried Summit, Jegs, JC Whit all say week or two.
> None in
stock. They have larger ones but need only between 7 to 10 Gal.
>
Tks
======================================================
Don't know
about availability but you can check Truechoice motorsports.
www.truechoice.com
1-800-526-5350 ad sez ATL fuel cell for $480
Behernts
Performance Warehouse 914-651-7389
http://www.jazproducts.com/
Jaz products
Speedy Bills [ has race stuff --- maybe fuel cells
] 1-402-474-4411
TC Race car 1-800-296-3760 ---- ad
sez $84 for 8 gal cell [ big difference ]
These numbers
are from ads in Circle Track magazine --- available in most
large magazine
racks.
Hope one of em works. Keep me posted on progress ---- fuel
cell implies
you're getting to the end.
Jim
berry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 22 Mar 2000 18:57:15 -0500
From: smii <
smii@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S:
vpc,injector,turbotimer,etc installation
Hello
everybody,
I live in the north shore area in MA. and I have a
HKS VPC, 550cc injectors,
Greddy turbo timer, and a few gauges to
install. If anybody with experience
is willing to help me install these
parts, I will pay them for their time and
energy.
The problem is that lately all the speed
shops in this area have
said some very stupid things
that lead me to
believe that they are incompetent, and I"m afraid that
they will screw
me over and make me pay for things that I don"t need, or
mess up my car.
The fact that every speed shop talks bad about all of
their competitors
doesn't help either. The bottom line is that I don't
know who to trust. If
their is anyone who can help me in this situation
it would be very
appreciated.
Thanks very
much
Boris
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:45:53 EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Flooded motor replacement woes-help!
Well the nightmare continues..... I
got the motor replaced after the flood
damage and now the transmission
computer has to be replaced and the
transmission came appart. So I am
now in need of the following:
1) automatic transmission for 91 RT 24
Valve non turbo
2) computer for above
3) oh ya the electronic module right
after the air box, that got ruined in
the drowing of the car as
well
Merrisa
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:52:25 -0500
From: Ryan Southwick <
Ryan.Southwick@CMSHartzell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Plastic Defrost Cover Replacing.
Does anyone have any information
on how long it takes to replace the plastic
defrost covers on the top of the
dash. Both of mine have cracked and
separated. Thus I have the
parts, but it looks like a pain to replace.
Anyone have any support for this
one???
Cheers,
Ryan
91 VR4
-----Original
Message-----
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.com
[
mailto:MerisaPDX@aol.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, March 21, 2000 7:46 PM
To:
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Flooded motor replacement woes-help!
Well the nightmare
continues..... I got the motor replaced
after the flood
damage and now
the transmission computer has to be replaced
and the
transmission came
appart. So I am now in need of the
following:
1) automatic
transmission for 91 RT 24 Valve non turbo
2) computer for above
3) oh ya
the electronic module right after the air box, that
got ruined in
the
drowing of the car as well
Merrisa
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:53:54 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flooded motor replacement woes-help!
MerisaPDX@aol.com wrote:
>
>
Well the nightmare continues..... I got the motor replaced after the
flood
> damage and now the transmission computer has to be replaced and
the
> transmission came appart. So I am now in need of the
following:
>
> 1) automatic transmission for 91 RT 24 Valve non
turbo
> 2) computer for above
> 3) oh ya the electronic module right
after the air box, that got ruined in
> the drowing of the car as
well
You should probably just try to get your insurance company to write
it off as a
total loss, then buy another.
However, in case you can't
arrange that, here are some junkyards to search for
parts:
M&S is
located in Rancho Cordova near Sacramento.
1-800-695-4700
http://www.msrecycling.com/main.htmlFoster's
Auto Parts
10355 SE Foster Road
Portland, OR
(800) 547-4851
(800)
278-5548
East Street Automotive
810 East Street ( who'da thunkit? )
Memphis,
Tennersee 38104
phone: (901) 774-5374
fax:
(901) 774-5336
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car,
your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 17:19:05 -0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fiberglass Undertray
I was surfing the net and I saw this guy who had a
civic crx and he made a
custom undertray for it out of fiberglass. It
looks fairly simple, it
merely covered the bottom of the car. So the
question is, is this more of a
gimmick or is there something to be gained (by
our cars) by adding something
like this?
Thanks,
Chris
92
TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 21 Mar 2000 17:24:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fiberglass Undertray
Keeps motor cleaner..and helps force air
thru the radiator than up under
the motor..also is an aerodynamic assist as
well..the faster you can keep
air moving smoothly under the car, the less
lift you will get from the
fastER air going over the car.
. . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1987 Supra Turbo
-
-----------------
K&N
FIPK
Spearco IC
APEXi N1
Exhaust*
Custom Hardpipe Kit
Custom Aluminum-Alloy Driveshaft
RC 3mm Overbore Throttle Body
Mueller Lightweight
Driveshaft* HKS Downpipe*
Custom Lightweight
Main Pulley** Full Redline Synthetic Oils &
WW
AEM Cam Gear
(Intake)*
Greddy Type-S BOV
Lightewight 16x8" Racing
Wheels HKS FCD
Greddy EGT
Guage
ST Swaybar Set
Eibach Pro Spring
Set
Tokico-II TEMS Struts
APEXi (new)
AVC-R
Broward Dual-Friction Clutch*
Porterfield Heat/Cryo treated Rotors,
crossdrilled
Porterfield R4-S
Pads
Full DOT 5.1 Brake fluid
Goodridge SS Brake
lines
Yes..all this on a stock HG
+++
* On order
** Being
developed
On Tue, 21 Mar 2000, Chris Maxwell wrote:
> I was
surfing the net and I saw this guy who had a civic crx and he made a
>
custom undertray for it out of fiberglass. It looks fairly simple,
it
> merely covered the bottom of the car. So the question is, is
this more of a
> gimmick or is there something to be gained (by our cars)
by adding something
> like this?
>
> Thanks,
>
Chris
> 92 TT
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #88
********************