team3s             Monday, March 20 2000             Volume 01 : Number 087




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 15:35:03 -0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: WEB SITE FOR TIRES?

Friends Hi!

Did someone know any web site for purchase tires??

Thanks for the help!
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 14:23:12 -0500
From: "Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: WEB SITE FOR TIRES?

I have used http://www.tirerack.com several times in the past..

Great prices, and fast service.

Eddie


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Nickolaos M. Sgouros <atenag@coqui.net>

> Did someone know any web site for purchase tires??




***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 18:08:15 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Urgent question on tire size...

According to a tire calculator size calculator I found
> 275/40s
> would be VERY close in circumference.  Would 275s fit?  Anyone tried
> this size
> successfully?  I'm at stock ride height currently but want to change
> that in the
> future, would this pose further problems?
>
> thanks,
> Jason
\

I am using 275/40 ZR 17 potenzas w/stock rims, they are tight w/the struts
but it works. you may want to use 3/16 in spacers to be safe.

they are not very good tires but they last OK and they were cheap at $135
ea.


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 19:10:15 -0700 (MST)
From: JAMEYCHAR@webtv.net (JAMEY BLOCK)
Subject: Team3S: Drivers side door

Hi, Could anybody help me find a door skin or the whole door for under
$750.00 . I am getting married in June an would like it to be flawless.
I already have the paint both rented for MAY 16 .
Anybody is welcome to send information even out of country

             Jamey 92 ES STEALTH


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 18:23:30 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]

You dont need LSD additive on T/T
this is a sealed viscous silicone unit.
there are no friction surfaces in contact w/oil.





- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Margrave" <davidma@premier1.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]


>
> sorry if this is a repeat, but I didn't see my first post go through...
>
>
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 20:35:35 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos

Errin said:

> I really appreciate any and all help answering a few
> questions regarding the removal and installation of
> turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>
> 1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
> beforehand?  (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?).  Any parts
> I might expect to break?  I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines for the turbos.

...etc.

I find it difficult to believe that on this list nobody has advice to give on upgrading the turbos.  I'm facing this seeminly challenging task myself and would also like to hear any words of wisdom from those who have been there before...

Special tools required, special parts from Mitsu to have on-hand, tricks to save time/effort/money would all be welcome bits of advice.

If not for any other reason, it would be a great thing to have information like that available on one of the web pages.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Beggin' for 15G's!

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:10:10 -0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S: Found a '91 VR4

Well I finally found a nice VR4. It's a 1991 with 85,000 miles. The owner is
asking $10,900 but dropped it to $10,700. The body looks good, no damage and
the engine appears fine. I gave him a deposit pending on a clean bill of
health from an extended warrantee evaluation. I checked out the VIN on
www.carfax.com and it came up clean.

The company I'm planning on using for the extended warrantee is PRco
(http://www.prcousa.com/) they will insure the VR4 for up to 24,000 miles or
2 years for $1,600. This company was highly recommended by a friend who runs
a mechanic shop. So I'm planning on using them unless you folks have any
better suggestions. They do an on-site inspection for $70.

Any other last minute advice before I make the jump from my Turbo Supra to
the VR4?

- -Mike Morrison


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:21:09 -0500 (EST)
From: ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
Subject: Team3S: Automatic Transmission

Joe
     My transmission seems to slip from second back to first. and back
to 2nd when im eccelerating slowly, unless I increase my acceleration,
is this inherent or do i have a real problem?
     My oil pressure gauge reads almost at the bottom when hot at idle,
then goes halfway as soon as i eccelerate. Although i havent checked
pressure, I wondered if this is common
Joe


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:36:02 -0500 (EST)
From: ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
Subject: Fwd: Team3S: Automatic Transmission

- --WebTV-Mail-5711-3620
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

     I have read the rules, is this too large?
I want to do this right.
Joe


- --WebTV-Mail-5711-3620
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Message/RFC822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

Received: from mailsorter-101-9.iap.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.43) by
storefull-287.iap.bryant.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Sun, 19 Mar 2000
21:21:49 -0800 (PST)
Return-Path: <owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Received: from mail.stealth-3000gt.st ([63.196.210.182]) by
mailsorter-101-9.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8-wtv-f/ms.dwm.v7+dul2)
with ESMTP id VAA09215; Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:21:48 -0800 (PST)
Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by mail.stealth-3000gt.st (8.9.3/8.9.3)
with SMTP id VAA31642; Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:22:03 -0800 (PST) (envelope-from
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st)
Received: by mail.stealth-3000gt.st (bulk_mailer v1.12); Sun, 19 Mar 2000
21:21:37 -0800
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by mail.stealth-3000gt.st (8.9.3/8.9.3)
id VAA31344 for team3s-resend; Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:21:37 -0800 (PST)
(envelope-from owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st)
X-Authentication-Warning: mail.stealth-3000gt.st: majordom set sender to
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st using -f
Received: from mailsorter-105-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (mailsorter-105-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net
[209.240.198.119]) by mail.stealth-3000gt.st (8.9.3/8.9.3) with
ESMTP id VAA31340 for <Team3S@stealth-3000GT.st>; Sun, 19 Mar 2000
21:21:36 -0800 (PST) (envelope-from ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net)
From: ARPEGGIO-@webtv.net
Received: from storefull-284.iap.bryant.webtv.net (storefull-284.iap.bryant.webtv.net
[209.240.199.248]) by mailsorter-105-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix)
with ESMTP id 296BD19C7 for <Team3S@stealth-3000GT.st>; Sun, 19 Mar
2000 21:21:10 -0800 (PST)
Received: (from production@localhost) by storefull-284.iap.bryant.webtv.net
(8.8.8-wtv-e/mt.gso.26Feb98) id VAA03011; Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:21:10
-0800 (PST)
X-WebTV-Signature: 1
ETAsAhQiULuRkQdeHDZU+nDbKyEGd5DV8gIUThplOzlUCE5UsOGAZwEIz3Ut530=
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:21:09 -0500 (EST)
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Automatic Transmission
Message-ID: <1373-38D5B545-6505@storefull-284.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV)
Sender: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st

Joe
     My transmission seems to slip from second back to first. and back
to 2nd when im eccelerating slowly, unless I increase my acceleration,
is this inherent or do i have a real problem?
     My oil pressure gauge reads almost at the bottom when hot at idle,
then goes halfway as soon as i eccelerate. Although i havent checked
pressure, I wondered if this is common
Joe


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

- --WebTV-Mail-5711-3620--

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 23:44:04 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo install tips[Fwd:Turbo installation]

here are some tips

- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Turbo installation
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To: "John T. Christian" <ie886@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
I have always done it on jackstands.  The rear is a bear, as far as
getting at
all the bolts you have to
loosen (like the stupid heatshield bolts).   You do NOT have to pull out
engine!
- --Don't put some of the useless bolts back in, the hard-to-get-at ones
are redundant
anyway!  Will make it easier next tine.
- --Do take off intake manifold all the way (though I did my 94 with it
on/loose,
yow)...
- --put paper towels into the lower intake manifold so don't drop stuff in
there!
Same for turbo air hoses...
- --Don't remove the alternator or AC compressor for the front turbo (some
things
manual says to remove you don't truly have to).
- --Be careful NOT to lose the copper gaskets (two each line) on the banjo
fittings
for the coolant lines-to-turbos;
best to have extras of those  :)
- --Get new precat-to-downpipe gaskets, old ones will be creakybad
- --Is good to have some spare STUDS for the turbo-to-downpipe sections,
as they do
NOT want to
come out of the old turbos, and sometimes get wrecked if taken out.  In
other
words, the ?4 or 5 studs that
connect the turbine section where you see the wastegate, to the pipe
afterward
(the precat pipe on the rear turbo),
with the sort of rectangular metal gasket between.  Those studs.
- --I use Pure Nickel Antiseize on all the bolts so they come off
easier/don't rust
as much/don't seize on.
- --Be careful removing the oil line hardpipe from turbos, that
compression type
fitting can get stuck and can
make you fatigue/crack the hardpipe if not careful.  The rear one has an
extra
fitting on it between the compression
fitting and the turbo proper.  (wow, you bought new lines!)
- --If you gut the precats, be prepared, it takes awhile (is a metal
honeycomb like
woven tinfoil but TOUGH!)
  start by knocking/drilling out center, then peel/knock out the most of
center
to an edge, then try delaminating it
off the outside edge and grabbing bigger sections of  it that way.  Wear
a
mask/well ventilated area, that has GOT
to be nasty cancer-causing platinum/unobtainium dust (??)
- --I work at a medium pace and it takes me 2 days to do both turbos. 
Could do it
in one if started early and ALL went
well and willing to work LATE, but bahh.  With cleaning cats out, etc,
it seems
to need two days no matter what.  Could
go longer if probs/missing parts (studs, gaskets).


"John T. Christian" wrote:

> Is turbo installation a home project???
> Stealth is at dealership, is swamped with transmission work.
> I don't think he'll have time to complete replacement.
>  Watkins Glen event is Thurs July8 so I leave WED.
> I'm considering taking back my car, replacing blown rear turbo myself.
> My concern for not doing it myself was having to
> 1.  possibly having to pull the engine which I really don't want to;
> 2.  work from underneath the car on jack stands (not much head room) to
> remove the turbos
> Do both front and rear turbos come out from top of car
> or do they have to be removed from bottom?
> I purchased all gaskets shown in manual pg 11-22 & 11-23 plus new
> oil supply/return lines.  The only gasket on back order is MR188537 (12534)
>  [old # MR168267] {22 on 11-22; 20 on 11-25},the one that goes
> between turbo and ]preCAT.

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:52:44 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos

Hi Errin & Matt,

       
It's not easy.  Some on the list say it takes 2 hrs for the front and 4
hrs for the back.  Their time is in WARP speed.  It took me 2 and 4 BUT
DAYS not hrs.

Welcome to the dirty fingernail club and permanently scarred knuckles
from the rear heat shield.

I documented my 13g transplant with a video camera over several days.

You'll need every 14mm size 1/4 3/8 1/2 and 6 & 12 point and swivel
Craftsman makes.  Yes, Sears also makes a straight and offset 14mm
ratchet wrenchs too!  BTW std and deep sockets too.

Get new studs for the new turbos as getting the old studs out could be
impossible.  DON't loose any turbo nuts -- they cost $7 each.

Even the magic words &5%%%###*#*#*#@(!!))+_)(*^&$$#^*( won't protect you
from cuts, scrapes of the rear heat shield.  An air ratchet 1/4 and 3/8
is a very handy tool.

You don't need a special socket for the O2 sensor.

The rear turbo comes out from the bottom.  The front can come out the
top or bottom.  Take the hood off of the car.

Also see notes below:
[snip]
Errin Humphrey wrote:
>
> 1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
> beforehand?  (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?).  Any parts
> I might expect to break?  I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines for the turbos.
- -->Turbo studs.  New turbo gaskets (both sides and the O ring).  You'll
drop the water gasket as well as the oil return line gasket several
times.  Hope you find it.  I was lucky and didn't break anything. I made
a crosslist of the Mitsu part numbers and the Manual picture numbers
which was very helpful.
I didn't use the new oil lines I bought.  I still haven't returned them
to Mitsu.

> 2) Any special tools I'll need?  I remember somebody
> once saying that I'll need every extension in existence.
- --> Those are helpful too.  A wobble might come in handy, but I didn't
have one.

> Anything in particular I should definitely grab?  I was
> thinking of buying that special socket for the O2 sensors.
- -->Don't need it.  A garage lift would be nice. (-:)

> 4) On the front turbo, is it really necessary to remove
> the drive belt and alternator like the service manual says?
- -->No No No Don't remove the belt or alternator.  I took out the fans to
get more room.
 
> 6) Back to the turbo oil feed lines.  According to the
> service manual, removing the oil feed pipe requires
> removing the air conditioning compressor, tension
> pulley bracket and air conditioner compressor bracket.
> Yikes!  Does this sound right?
- --->Again, No No No  Not necessary.
>
>
> 8) If anyone has any old posts saved with info on
> swapping turbos, could you please send them to me?
- -->I'll look backward and forward them to you privately.

> 9) Any other last minute sage advice?  (other than "don't
> forget to add oil, coolant and torque the lugnuts after-
> wards" ... )  ^_^
- ---> Use ANTISIEZE when you put everything back together.
Don't bother putting back all the bolts holding the rear heat shield.

  And  also GOOD LUCK TO YOU.

Be of good cheer
John

- --
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 01:08:25 -0800
From: "aa2345" <aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth vs. BMW M3: M3 won the race

Hey Team,

I hope I'm sending this to the correct address and not bouncing this off the
list.  Excuse the off topic but I thought you guys might want to know about
my little encounter with an M3.  If this seems too long, skip it.  It is
just one of my true stories that may entertain you.

A few days ago my brother was driving his 94 TT (Stock).  We came up behind
the M3 and the guy wanted to race.  Anyway, to make a long story short, the
guy got in front of us from the start because he initiated the race, and my
brother being used to him being able to outake any car he encountered so
far, was surprized that he was slowly loosing ground (he was in the
apropriate gear at all times).  After a few miles of playing (all was done
on the highway) through traffic, we pull up next to the M3 and show the 2
guys in it my cell phone # written on a piece of paper really big so they
can read it.  They call and we chit chat for a bit about the specs on each
car.  Here they are for an M3 (I pulled them off the internet):

BMW M3
Specifications
Engine Type Inline-6
Output Power 240 hp @ 6000 rpm
Torque 236 lb-ft @ 3800 rpm
Transmission 5 sp manual
Curb weight 3175 lb
Price $40,266


Performance
Top Speed 137 mph (*limited)
0 to 60 5.6 s or 5.5 sec (on 98 model)
0 to 100 14.5 s
1/4 mile 14.2 s @ 99 mph or 13.8 sec (on 98 model)
80 to 0 209 ft
60 to 0 114 ft

As you can see they are very comparable in speed (except for top speed).
I'm not sure what year the M3 was, but it was stock and the driver confirmed
the figures that you see above.  The M3's can probably achieve the same
times because of their weight difference.  My brother's TT had 2 people in
it and a full gas tank (19.8 gal = 75 kg = 165 lbs).  As you can see the
full gas tank is like having an extra person in the car.  Similarly the M3
had 2 people in it, so I think the conditions were fair.  At the M3 driver's
request we did a 60-135 mph controlled straight race.  Both cars were side
by side and I gave the countdown over the cell phone.  My brother had the
car in 2nd gear.  Off the start we were taking him out.  Then when he put
the car in 3rd gear things were getting evened out.  Our acceleration was
probably even at this point.  When my brother switched in 4th gear the M3
overtook us and put a few car lengths in between the 2 cars.  We probably
didn't go faster than 135 mph because we had to break, however we all know
that on an open road a TT would outdo an M3.  Throughout the playful racing
at the beginning, my brother shifted at optimal RPM's (close to redline).
He did the same in the 60-135 mph race.  Regardless, the M3 with 240 hp
outdid the TT with 320 hp.  The TT has 58,000 miles on it, so it is due soon
for its 60K service.  Maybe it's not operating exactly up to specks, but
then again, I think this is as fair as any race can get (from talking to
your opponent about his car, to doing a controlled straight race).

The M3 has my respect, and so does that driver (he did some pretty harry
maneuvers in the "trafic race" that I would've thought twice about doing,
but then again, things look much different from behind the wheel than from
the passanger's seat).

One more thing -- my brother experienced butter brakes in one of the forced
and necessary 130mph to 70mph brakings (they were probably already hot)
through traffic -- yikes, one of the disadvantages of stock brakes and a 2
ton car.  I wish I had "Rich old pops' Porche brakes.

Hope you guys enjoyed the story.  You can reply to my personal email
aa2345@wayne.edu ) if you don't want to bother the entire list.

Mike
94 Pearl Yellow TT (Stock)
93 Red Base Stealth (164 hp, 5 speed)


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 22:25:14 -0800
From: "Chad Beeder" <syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S: 5-point safety belts?

My brother and I were kicking around the idea of signing up for and running
in the Silver State Classic (www.silverstateclassic.com).  It looks like
good fun... I really don't have any prior racing experience, but it sounds
like for this race it's not really necessary (and they require a 1-day
performance driving course prior to the event, which is something I'm
interested in anyway).

From reading their web site, it sounds like first timers can sign up for the
Grand Touring class and run the race at a target speed of up to 125mph.
However, in order to enter in this class I need 5 or 6-point safety belts.

I haven't had much luck on the web finding information about safety belts.

So... I turn to you folks, esteemed 3000GT performance experts, for advice.

How expensive are these safety belts?  Any recommendations on specific ones?
And, how hard are they to install and remove?  Ideally I would want
something that can be installed and removed fairly easily without major
modifications to the car, as it is my daily driver and I can't really see
using 5-point belts just to drive to work and back.  But, it would be nice
to be able to put them on if I decided to go to the track or do autocross
type stuff.  Is this feasible, or are these more of a permanent thing?

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to racing, but this sure sounds like fun.
:-)  Would appreciate any insight anyone can offer.



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:49:10 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth vs.M3: ADMIN Notice!

- -----Original Message-----From: aa2345 <aa2345@wayne.edu>
>I hope I'm sending this to the correct address and not bouncing
this off the
- ---------snip-----------

No, you didn't send this to the correct address, or the right list.
It's not off-topic, it's against the rules.  Please, this is NOT an
appropriate post for the Team3S list.  Sanctioned races, involving
technique and preparing the cars ARE appropriate.  And it's great to
hear a Race Report that we can learn from.  But we don't want a
couple of hundred stories a week about street racing.  That's called
chat, and we don't allow chat on the Team3S list.  This is a list of
people who ALL own fast cars, and we ALL love to drive fast.  There
are chat lists around (with 100+ posts a day) that are a perfect
place to swap stories...

Please don't do it here.

Best,

Forrest
for the Admin...



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:58:19 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos (Partial answer, Admin Note)

>Errin said:
>> I really appreciate any and all help answering a few
>> questions regarding the removal and installation of
>> turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>> 1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
>> beforehand?  (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?).  Any parts
>> I might expect to break?  I'm already planning on
>> putting in new oil lines for the turbos.

- -----Original Message-----From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@bigcharts.com>
>I find it difficult to believe that on this list nobody has advice
to give on upgrading the turbos.  I'm facing this seeminly
challenging task myself and would also like to hear any words of
wisdom from those who have been there before...
>Special tools required, special parts from Mitsu to have on-hand,
tricks to save time/effort/money would all be welcome bits of
advice.
>If not for any other reason, it would be a great thing to have
information like that available on one of the web pages.


It *will* be a web page, eventually...  Do I detect impatience?  :-)
Errin posted his query on the weekend - yesterday, MOF, when I would
hope most of our members are out enjoying their cars in the
springtime air and not fielding email.  Weekends are notoriously
quiet for replies, for that very reason.  That's true on every list.
I'm sure those who have had experience in that area will reply
*when* they check in, and *if* they have the time, as always.  In
fact, I just saw that JackT posted the answer that you and Errin
were looking for...

The web pages are being added to almost daily, but until someone
submits a specific coded page, it's up to me and my tiny roving band
of volunteer web warriors to turn 'posts' into 'pages'.  Swapping
turbos is of limited interest to most of the list, so as interesting
a topic as it may be to some of us, it doesn't have as high a
priority as FAQs that affect a large number of us.  You are welcome
to volunteer such a page ahead of 'schedule', but knowing Errin,
he'll document his experiences, I'm sure, and have something for us
soon.  BTW, it's a clumsy way to search, but the archives may be
searched for keywords like turbo and swap right from your browser,
and I'm sure it will turn up something.  Web-searchable archives are
something that our Geek Gods are looking into, but again, that's in
between family, jobs, etc, so we ask for your patience.  Please send
comments to me privately...

I did a (quick) search of just one monthly archive and found
something, not about tools or tips, but the relative HP benefits of
the different turbos when anticipating a swap.  It's good enough
info that it bears reposting...  a mini-education, also by JackT,
posted on 10/25/99;  it's replayed here below my sig, and coming
soon to a web page near you.  Get to the archives off the Team3S
home page, www.stealth-3000gt.st

Best,

Forrest


"...13G make at least 50+ hp more than the 9B.  I did no other
changes on my '93 and went from 12.727 @ 107.562 mph to 12.172 @
112.890 mph quartermile on 8/31/94 going from 9B to 13G. This is
somewhat over 50hp, and I did not have the VPC/550 injectors yet, so
had to limit boost to ~16-17psi or fuelcut came in.  In this
configuration, went best of 114.350 mph on 9/27/94, ~65hp more (all
stats are NO nitrous in this letter, except as noted).  --I think
9B's can be good for about 410hp at wheels maxxed out with standard
stuff...
...Once VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and 119.381 best
mph, on 4/8/95; about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained about
110 hp with 13G over 9B, but given other changes 13G likely ~100 hp
better than 9B.  13G best ET was 11.702 @ 118.061 on 6/6/96; this
was through traps in 3rd gear, on the rev limiter.  I was the first
3000GT in the 11's 5/17/95 with an 11.937 @ 118.338.  --I think 13G
can be good for about 510hp at wheels maxxed out with standard
stuff....
...15G best MPH was 11.387 @ 125.76 11/28/96 at the 1st Annual
3000GT/Stealth vs. Diamond Star Shootout in Temple, TX with the 550
injectors; about 575 hp at the wheels, so 15G make about 75 hp more
than 13 G, but note I made some other changes so 15G likely ~40-50hp
better than 13G.  After that, 720cc injectors did not add any mph to
trapspeed, indeed seemed to LOWER speed likely due to over-rich
condition-- but lowered EGT a tad (max 1850 F at Temple) which may
or may not have been good because knock could at random times mean
EGT high due to retard, or due to a true lean mix.  Best ET for me
with 15G was 11.303 @ 122.54 at DSM Shootout 5/16/97, which I won
class in :) full interior, as required by Dave Buschur...Adam Weltz
went ~11.25 "no NOS".  --I think 15G can be good for about 580hp at
wheels maxxed out with standard stuff...
...My car made best 575 or so at wheels no NOS, but that is not
"maxxed" because I always had stock intercoolers, no headers, no
head/intake/throttlebodyporting/ignition/standalone computer--with
THOSE parts, my "maxxed out" figures could be somewhat higher...
...Best 3000GT/Stealth ET/MPH overall is still my 10.810 @ 128.44
with 15G's, 50hp NOS
on 6/3/97..."  --JackT






***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 07:37:36 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler" <RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?

I can tell you the clutch  on my 1994 3000gt SL was replaced
at about 55,000 miles according to the dealer that did it.
It was about 5,000 miles before I bought it so I don't know how
it was driven before that.
Bob
_______________________________________________________
Part of original post:

Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:22:17 -0600
From: Ron Smith <rsmith1@icsi.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?

About 6 months ago the clutch went out completetly (pedal to the floor,
no pressure) on my '93 3000GT/SL.  I took it to the friendly
neighborhood garage where I always get routine service done, thinking it
was a simple burst hose or lack of fluid.  They ended up replacing both
the slave and master cylinders.  Then a week later it began losing
pressure again and I took it back - this time they replaced a hose.

I asked if it is
normal to have to replace the clutch on the 3000 at only 48,000 miles.
They said they have seen them go out as early as 30,000.  Does anybody
have an opinion on that?

RS



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 08:58:23 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]

Dave,

  The Redline fluid (75W90 Gear Oil) HAS the additive in it.  I spoke
to a rep at Redline about it.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors

David Margrave wrote:
>
> sorry if this is a repeat, but I didn't see my first post go through...
>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: limited slip additive?
> Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:03 -0800
> From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
> To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
> Hey,
> I just remembered, that when I changed my rear diff fluid to redline,
> that I didn't add any type of limited slip additive which is commonly
> done on other cars.  I rechecked the shop manual and didn't see anything
> mentioning additive in there.  What do you all do for rear diff fluid
> changes?
>
> Dave
> '91 R/T TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 06:29:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos

Whoooaaa, give people a chance. Be patient. Not everybody is
glued to the computer screen.

I can't give you particulars on switching out the turbos as I
was "fortunate" enough to have my engine out being rebuilt when
I did mine. However, I may be able to help you decide on which
turbos if you haven't bought them already.

I took the time to add RPM line overlays to Mikael Akesson's
compressor maps for the 15G and 18T. As you can see, the 18Ts
are FAR superior to the 15Gs (not attached to the Team3S
response as per rules - too bad). You should contact Mikael, his
site http://www.3000gt.nu, and past posts for additional details
on availability. I think they would be worth the wait and the
expense. By the way TEC upgraded both of my new 13Gs (Mitsubishi
Sport Turbos) to 15Gs for $606 (US) plus tax in 1998. They also
sold the 13Gs at that time for $730 (US) each. Talk to Jason at
1-800-950-8872; www.turboengineering.com. And of course contact
Brian La Fuenta at GT-PRO for other alternatives.

Hope this helps a little.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos

Errin said:

> I really appreciate any and all help answering a few
> questions regarding the removal and installation of
> turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>
> 1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
> beforehand?  (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?).  Any parts
> I might expect to break?  I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines for the turbos.

...etc.

I find it difficult to believe that on this list nobody has
advice to give on upgrading the turbos.  I'm facing this
seeminly challenging task myself and would also like to hear any
words of wisdom from those who have been there before...

Special tools required, special parts from Mitsu to have
on-hand, tricks to save time/effort/money would all be welcome
bits of advice.

If not for any other reason, it would be a great thing to have
information like that available on one of the web pages.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Beggin' for 15G's!



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 08:45:21 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos (Partial answer, Admin Note)

> It *will* be a web page, eventually...  Do I detect impatience?  :-)
> Errin posted his query on the weekend - yesterday, MOF, when I would
> hope most of our members are out enjoying their cars in the
> springtime air and not fielding email.  Weekends are notoriously
> quiet for replies, for that very reason.  That's true on every list.
> I'm sure those who have had experience in that area will reply
> *when* they check in, and *if* they have the time, as always.  In
> fact, I just saw that JackT posted the answer that you and Errin
> were looking for...

Sorry, I thought Errin sent his message in on Friday instead of Saturday.  Still a little impatient on my part, but I've noticed that if a question goes more than a day or two unanswered then there usually isn't an answer forthcoming.

As payment for my impatience, I offer to fully document my turbo swap in words and pictures if I decide to tackle the task myself (probably).  :-)

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 07:21:56 -0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S: URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?

Well, I've narrowed it down to two options for a service contract for the
1991 VR4 I'm getting ready to buy. Either Platinum Warranty Corp
(www.platinumwarrantycorp.com) or PRco (www.prcousa.com). Platinum's
coverage is 3 yr/36K miles for $1600 and includes gaskets. PRco's coverage
is 2 yr/24K miles for $1900 and does not include gaskets (extra $150).
However my friend who owns a repair shop recommended PRco because they have
always been very fair with claims that his shop has made. Platinum only does
a CarFax report (I've already done that and its clean) while PRco has an
inspector inspect the car before they insure it.

Do any of you have any experience with these two companies? Or is there a
better one that I'm missing?

- -Mike Morrison


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 09:42:47 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?

Mike,
I'd also check with your auto insurance company to see if they offer
anything.  I got a 3 year unlimited mileage from Allstate for my '95 RT/TT
for $1100.  Only parts not covered are brake and clutch linings.  Already
had to have them replace my knock sensor.  All I paid was the $50
deductible.  Other insurance companies may offer similar warranties, or
check with Allstate.

John Basol
'95 RT/TT


-----Original Message-----
From: Sandie Morrison [SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 9:22 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Cc: wkock1@san.rr.com
Subject: Team3S: URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?

Well, I've narrowed it down to two options for a service contract
for the
1991 VR4 I'm getting ready to buy. Either Platinum Warranty Corp
(www.platinumwarrantycorp.com) or PRco (www.prcousa.com). Platinum's
coverage is 3 yr/36K miles for $1600 and includes gaskets. PRco's
coverage
is 2 yr/24K miles for $1900 and does not include gaskets (extra
$150).
However my friend who owns a repair shop recommended PRco because
they have
always been very fair with claims that his shop has made. Platinum
only does
a CarFax report (I've already done that and its clean) while PRco
has an
inspector inspect the car before they insure it.

Do any of you have any experience with these two companies? Or is
there a
better one that I'm missing?

-Mike Morrison


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 14:18:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Addco anti-sway bars

[Note: message posted to both Team3S and Starnet lists]
If this is an old topic I apologize. I have not yet made it
through all the old posts.

Does anyone have any experience or opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars? Addco front bar is 1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54% increase in stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar is 0.875" (stock is 0.86"),
for a 7% increase in stiffness.

1) understeer/oversteer. I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar may increase understeer, something we don't need
more of. And that the rear bar may increase oversteer slightly
but would it be enough to balance the stronger front bar?

2) lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with stock
suspension, with aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs and bars?

3) bar dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the other
dimensions the same and would any modification be required to
mount the bars? Other dimensional changes would also affect
overall bar stiffness.

4) Experiences. Anyone care to mention their experiences with
this add-on?

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #87
********************