team3s
Monday, March 20
2000
Volume 01 : Number
087
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 15:35:03 -0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: WEB
SITE FOR TIRES?
Friends Hi!
Did someone know any web site for
purchase tires??
Thanks for the help!
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 14:23:12 -0500
From: "Eddie" <
stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: WEB SITE FOR TIRES?
I have used
http://www.tirerack.com several times in the
past..
Great prices, and fast service.
Eddie
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Nickolaos M. Sgouros <
atenag@coqui.net>
> Did someone
know any web site for purchase tires??
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 18:08:15 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Urgent question on tire size...
According to a tire calculator
size calculator I found
> 275/40s
> would be VERY close in
circumference. Would 275s fit? Anyone tried
> this
size
> successfully? I'm at stock ride height currently but want to
change
> that in the
> future, would this pose further
problems?
>
> thanks,
> Jason
\
I am using 275/40 ZR
17 potenzas w/stock rims, they are tight w/the struts
but it works. you may
want to use 3/16 in spacers to be safe.
they are not very good tires but
they last OK and they were cheap at $135
ea.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 19:10:15 -0700 (MST)
From:
JAMEYCHAR@webtv.net (JAMEY
BLOCK)
Subject: Team3S: Drivers side door
Hi, Could anybody help me
find a door skin or the whole door for under
$750.00 . I am getting married
in June an would like it to be flawless.
I already have the paint both rented
for MAY 16 .
Anybody is welcome to send information even out of
country
Jamey 92 ES STEALTH
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 18:23:30 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]
You dont need LSD additive on T/T
this is a sealed viscous silicone unit.
there are no friction surfaces in
contact w/oil.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"David Margrave" <
davidma@premier1.net>
To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, March 17, 2000 10:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip
additive?]
>
> sorry if this is a repeat, but I didn't see
my first post go through...
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 20:35:35 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Swapping the Turbos
Errin said:
> I really appreciate
any and all help answering a few
> questions regarding the removal and
installation of
> turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>
>
1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
> beforehand?
(e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?). Any parts
> I might expect to
break? I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines for the
turbos.
...etc.
I find it difficult to believe that on this list
nobody has advice to give on upgrading the turbos. I'm facing this
seeminly challenging task myself and would also like to hear any words of wisdom
from those who have been there before...
Special tools required, special
parts from Mitsu to have on-hand, tricks to save time/effort/money would all be
welcome bits of advice.
If not for any other reason, it would be a great
thing to have information like that available on one of the web pages.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
Beggin' for 15G's!
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:10:10 -0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Found a '91 VR4
Well I finally found a nice VR4. It's a 1991 with 85,000
miles. The owner is
asking $10,900 but dropped it to $10,700. The body looks
good, no damage and
the engine appears fine. I gave him a deposit pending on
a clean bill of
health from an extended warrantee evaluation. I checked out
the VIN on
www.carfax.com and it came up
clean.
The company I'm planning on using for the extended warrantee is
PRco
(
http://www.prcousa.com/) they
will insure the VR4 for up to 24,000 miles or
2 years for $1,600. This
company was highly recommended by a friend who runs
a mechanic shop. So I'm
planning on using them unless you folks have any
better suggestions. They do
an on-site inspection for $70.
Any other last minute advice before I make
the jump from my Turbo Supra to
the VR4?
- -Mike
Morrison
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:21:09 -0500 (EST)
From:
ARPEGGIO-@webtv.netSubject: Team3S:
Automatic Transmission
Joe
My transmission
seems to slip from second back to first. and back
to 2nd when im eccelerating
slowly, unless I increase my acceleration,
is this inherent or do i have a
real problem?
My oil pressure gauge reads almost at
the bottom when hot at idle,
then goes halfway as soon as i eccelerate.
Although i havent checked
pressure, I wondered if this is
common
Joe
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:36:02 -0500 (EST)
From:
ARPEGGIO-@webtv.netSubject: Fwd:
Team3S: Automatic Transmission
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I have read the rules, is this too
large?
I want to do this right.
Joe
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Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:21:09 -0500 (EST)
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Automatic Transmission
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owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.stJoe
My transmission seems to slip from second back to first. and back
to 2nd when
im eccelerating slowly, unless I increase my acceleration,
is this inherent
or do i have a real problem?
My oil pressure gauge
reads almost at the bottom when hot at idle,
then goes halfway as soon as i
eccelerate. Although i havent checked
pressure, I wondered if this is
common
Joe
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--WebTV-Mail-5711-3620--
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 23:44:04 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Turbo install tips[Fwd:Turbo installation]
here are some tips
-
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Turbo installation
Date:
Sat, 03 Jul 1999
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
To: "John T.
Christian" <
ie886@cleveland.Freenet.Edu>
I
have always done it on jackstands. The rear is a bear, as far
as
getting at
all the bolts you have to
loosen (like the stupid
heatshield bolts). You do NOT have to pull out
engine!
-
--Don't put some of the useless bolts back in, the hard-to-get-at ones
are
redundant
anyway! Will make it easier next tine.
- --Do take off
intake manifold all the way (though I did my 94 with
it
on/loose,
yow)...
- --put paper towels into the lower intake
manifold so don't drop stuff in
there!
Same for turbo air hoses...
-
--Don't remove the alternator or AC compressor for the front turbo
(some
things
manual says to remove you don't truly have to).
- --Be
careful NOT to lose the copper gaskets (two each line) on the
banjo
fittings
for the coolant lines-to-turbos;
best to have extras of
those :)
- --Get new precat-to-downpipe gaskets, old ones will be
creakybad
- --Is good to have some spare STUDS for the turbo-to-downpipe
sections,
as they do
NOT want to
come out of the old turbos, and
sometimes get wrecked if taken out. In
other
words, the ?4 or 5
studs that
connect the turbine section where you see the wastegate, to the
pipe
afterward
(the precat pipe on the rear turbo),
with the sort of
rectangular metal gasket between. Those studs.
- --I use Pure Nickel
Antiseize on all the bolts so they come off
easier/don't rust
as
much/don't seize on.
- --Be careful removing the oil line hardpipe from
turbos, that
compression type
fitting can get stuck and can
make you
fatigue/crack the hardpipe if not careful. The rear one has
an
extra
fitting on it between the compression
fitting and the turbo
proper. (wow, you bought new lines!)
- --If you gut the precats, be
prepared, it takes awhile (is a metal
honeycomb like
woven tinfoil but
TOUGH!)
start by knocking/drilling out center, then peel/knock out the
most of
center
to an edge, then try delaminating it
off the outside
edge and grabbing bigger sections of it that way.
Wear
a
mask/well ventilated area, that has GOT
to be nasty
cancer-causing platinum/unobtainium dust (??)
- --I work at a medium pace and
it takes me 2 days to do both turbos.
Could do it
in one if started
early and ALL went
well and willing to work LATE, but bahh. With
cleaning cats out, etc,
it seems
to need two days no matter what.
Could
go longer if probs/missing parts (studs,
gaskets).
"John T. Christian" wrote:
> Is turbo
installation a home project???
> Stealth is at dealership, is swamped with
transmission work.
> I don't think he'll have time to complete
replacement.
> Watkins Glen event is Thurs July8 so I leave
WED.
> I'm considering taking back my car, replacing blown rear turbo
myself.
> My concern for not doing it myself was having to
>
1. possibly having to pull the engine which I really don't want
to;
> 2. work from underneath the car on jack stands (not much head
room) to
> remove the turbos
> Do both front and rear turbos come
out from top of car
> or do they have to be removed from bottom?
> I
purchased all gaskets shown in manual pg 11-22 & 11-23 plus new
> oil
supply/return lines. The only gasket on back order is MR188537
(12534)
> [old # MR168267] {22 on 11-22; 20 on 11-25},the one that
goes
> between turbo and ]preCAT.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:52:44 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Swapping the Turbos
Hi Errin &
Matt,
It's not easy.
Some on the list say it takes 2 hrs for the front and 4
hrs for the
back. Their time is in WARP speed. It took me 2 and 4 BUT
DAYS
not hrs.
Welcome to the dirty fingernail club and permanently scarred
knuckles
from the rear heat shield.
I documented my 13g transplant
with a video camera over several days.
You'll need every 14mm size 1/4
3/8 1/2 and 6 & 12 point and swivel
Craftsman makes. Yes, Sears
also makes a straight and offset 14mm
ratchet wrenchs too! BTW std and
deep sockets too.
Get new studs for the new turbos as getting the old
studs out could be
impossible. DON't loose any turbo nuts -- they cost
$7 each.
Even the magic words &5%%%###*#*#*#@(!!))+_)(*^&$$#^*(
won't protect you
from cuts, scrapes of the rear heat shield. An air
ratchet 1/4 and 3/8
is a very handy tool.
You don't need a special
socket for the O2 sensor.
The rear turbo comes out from the bottom.
The front can come out the
top or bottom. Take the hood off of the
car.
Also see notes below:
[snip]
Errin Humphrey wrote:
>
> 1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
>
beforehand? (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?). Any parts
> I might
expect to break? I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines
for the turbos.
- -->Turbo studs. New turbo gaskets (both sides and
the O ring). You'll
drop the water gasket as well as the oil return
line gasket several
times. Hope you find it. I was lucky and
didn't break anything. I made
a crosslist of the Mitsu part numbers and the
Manual picture numbers
which was very helpful.
I didn't use the new oil
lines I bought. I still haven't returned them
to Mitsu.
> 2)
Any special tools I'll need? I remember somebody
> once saying that
I'll need every extension in existence.
- --> Those are helpful too.
A wobble might come in handy, but I didn't
have one.
> Anything in
particular I should definitely grab? I was
> thinking of buying that
special socket for the O2 sensors.
- -->Don't need it. A garage lift
would be nice. (-:)
> 4) On the front turbo, is it really necessary to
remove
> the drive belt and alternator like the service manual says?
-
-->No No No Don't remove the belt or alternator. I took out the fans
to
get more room.
> 6) Back to the turbo oil feed
lines. According to the
> service manual, removing the oil feed pipe
requires
> removing the air conditioning compressor, tension
>
pulley bracket and air conditioner compressor bracket.
> Yikes! Does
this sound right?
- --->Again, No No No Not
necessary.
>
>
> 8) If anyone has any old posts saved with
info on
> swapping turbos, could you please send them to me?
-
-->I'll look backward and forward them to you privately.
> 9) Any
other last minute sage advice? (other than "don't
> forget to
add oil, coolant and torque the lugnuts after-
> wards" ... )
^_^
- ---> Use ANTISIEZE when you put everything back together.
Don't
bother putting back all the bolts holding the rear heat shield.
And also GOOD LUCK TO YOU.
Be of good cheer
John
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche brakes &
Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 01:08:25 -0800
From: "aa2345" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth vs. BMW M3: M3 won the race
Hey Team,
I hope I'm sending
this to the correct address and not bouncing this off the
list. Excuse
the off topic but I thought you guys might want to know about
my little
encounter with an M3. If this seems too long, skip it. It is
just
one of my true stories that may entertain you.
A few days ago my brother
was driving his 94 TT (Stock). We came up behind
the M3 and the guy
wanted to race. Anyway, to make a long story short, the
guy got in
front of us from the start because he initiated the race, and my
brother
being used to him being able to outake any car he encountered so
far, was
surprized that he was slowly loosing ground (he was in the
apropriate gear at
all times). After a few miles of playing (all was done
on the highway)
through traffic, we pull up next to the M3 and show the 2
guys in it my cell
phone # written on a piece of paper really big so they
can read it.
They call and we chit chat for a bit about the specs on each
car. Here
they are for an M3 (I pulled them off the internet):
BMW
M3
Specifications
Engine Type Inline-6
Output Power 240 hp @ 6000
rpm
Torque 236 lb-ft @ 3800 rpm
Transmission 5 sp manual
Curb weight
3175 lb
Price $40,266
Performance
Top Speed 137 mph
(*limited)
0 to 60 5.6 s or 5.5 sec (on 98 model)
0 to 100 14.5 s
1/4
mile 14.2 s @ 99 mph or 13.8 sec (on 98 model)
80 to 0 209 ft
60 to 0 114
ft
As you can see they are very comparable in speed (except for top
speed).
I'm not sure what year the M3 was, but it was stock and the driver
confirmed
the figures that you see above. The M3's can probably achieve
the same
times because of their weight difference. My brother's TT had
2 people in
it and a full gas tank (19.8 gal = 75 kg = 165 lbs). As you
can see the
full gas tank is like having an extra person in the car.
Similarly the M3
had 2 people in it, so I think the conditions were
fair. At the M3 driver's
request we did a 60-135 mph controlled
straight race. Both cars were side
by side and I gave the countdown
over the cell phone. My brother had the
car in 2nd gear. Off the
start we were taking him out. Then when he put
the car in 3rd gear
things were getting evened out. Our acceleration was
probably even at
this point. When my brother switched in 4th gear the M3
overtook us and
put a few car lengths in between the 2 cars. We probably
didn't go
faster than 135 mph because we had to break, however we all know
that on an
open road a TT would outdo an M3. Throughout the playful racing
at the
beginning, my brother shifted at optimal RPM's (close to redline).
He did the
same in the 60-135 mph race. Regardless, the M3 with 240 hp
outdid the
TT with 320 hp. The TT has 58,000 miles on it, so it is due soon
for
its 60K service. Maybe it's not operating exactly up to specks,
but
then again, I think this is as fair as any race can get (from talking
to
your opponent about his car, to doing a controlled straight
race).
The M3 has my respect, and so does that driver (he did some pretty
harry
maneuvers in the "trafic race" that I would've thought twice
about doing,
but then again, things look much different from behind the wheel
than from
the passanger's seat).
One more thing -- my brother
experienced butter brakes in one of the forced
and necessary 130mph to 70mph
brakings (they were probably already hot)
through traffic -- yikes, one of
the disadvantages of stock brakes and a 2
ton car. I wish I had
"Rich old pops' Porche brakes.
Hope you guys enjoyed the
story. You can reply to my personal email
aa2345@wayne.edu ) if you don't want to
bother the entire list.
Mike
94 Pearl Yellow TT (Stock)
93 Red Base
Stealth (164 hp, 5 speed)
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 19 Mar 2000 22:25:14 -0800
From: "Chad Beeder" <
syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
5-point safety belts?
My brother and I were kicking around the idea of
signing up for and running
in the Silver State Classic (
www.silverstateclassic.com).
It looks like
good fun... I really don't have any prior racing experience,
but it sounds
like for this race it's not really necessary (and they require
a 1-day
performance driving course prior to the event, which is something
I'm
interested in anyway).
From reading their web site, it sounds like
first timers can sign up for the
Grand Touring class and run the race at a
target speed of up to 125mph.
However, in order to enter in this class I need
5 or 6-point safety belts.
I haven't had much luck on the web finding
information about safety belts.
So... I turn to you folks, esteemed
3000GT performance experts, for advice.
How expensive are these safety
belts? Any recommendations on specific ones?
And, how hard are they to
install and remove? Ideally I would want
something that can be
installed and removed fairly easily without major
modifications to the car,
as it is my daily driver and I can't really see
using 5-point belts just to
drive to work and back. But, it would be nice
to be able to put them on
if I decided to go to the track or do autocross
type stuff. Is this
feasible, or are these more of a permanent thing?
I'm pretty clueless
when it comes to racing, but this sure sounds like fun.
:-) Would
appreciate any insight anyone can offer.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:49:10 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth vs.M3: ADMIN Notice!
- -----Original Message-----From:
aa2345 <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
>I
hope I'm sending this to the correct address and not bouncing
this off
the
- ---------snip-----------
No, you didn't send this to the correct
address, or the right list.
It's not off-topic, it's against the rules.
Please, this is NOT an
appropriate post for the Team3S list. Sanctioned
races, involving
technique and preparing the cars ARE appropriate. And
it's great to
hear a Race Report that we can learn from. But we don't
want a
couple of hundred stories a week about street racing. That's
called
chat, and we don't allow chat on the Team3S list. This is a list
of
people who ALL own fast cars, and we ALL love to drive fast.
There
are chat lists around (with 100+ posts a day) that are a
perfect
place to swap stories...
Please don't do it
here.
Best,
Forrest
for the
Admin...
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 00:58:19 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Swapping the Turbos (Partial answer, Admin Note)
>Errin
said:
>> I really appreciate any and all help answering a
few
>> questions regarding the removal and installation of
>>
turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>> 1) Any special parts I
should order from Mitsubishi
>> beforehand? (e.g. gaskets, studs,
etc.?). Any parts
>> I might expect to break? I'm already
planning on
>> putting in new oil lines for the turbos.
-
-----Original Message-----From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@bigcharts.com>
>I find it
difficult to believe that on this list nobody has advice
to give on upgrading
the turbos. I'm facing this seeminly
challenging task myself and would
also like to hear any words of
wisdom from those who have been there
before...
>Special tools required, special parts from Mitsu to have
on-hand,
tricks to save time/effort/money would all be welcome bits
of
advice.
>If not for any other reason, it would be a great thing to
have
information like that available on one of the web pages.
It
*will* be a web page, eventually... Do I detect impatience?
:-)
Errin posted his query on the weekend - yesterday, MOF, when I
would
hope most of our members are out enjoying their cars in
the
springtime air and not fielding email. Weekends are
notoriously
quiet for replies, for that very reason. That's true on
every list.
I'm sure those who have had experience in that area will
reply
*when* they check in, and *if* they have the time, as always.
In
fact, I just saw that JackT posted the answer that you and Errin
were
looking for...
The web pages are being added to almost daily, but until
someone
submits a specific coded page, it's up to me and my tiny roving
band
of volunteer web warriors to turn 'posts' into 'pages'.
Swapping
turbos is of limited interest to most of the list, so as
interesting
a topic as it may be to some of us, it doesn't have as high
a
priority as FAQs that affect a large number of us. You are
welcome
to volunteer such a page ahead of 'schedule', but knowing
Errin,
he'll document his experiences, I'm sure, and have something for
us
soon. BTW, it's a clumsy way to search, but the archives may
be
searched for keywords like turbo and swap right from your browser,
and
I'm sure it will turn up something. Web-searchable archives
are
something that our Geek Gods are looking into, but again, that's
in
between family, jobs, etc, so we ask for your patience. Please
send
comments to me privately...
I did a (quick) search of just one
monthly archive and found
something, not about tools or tips, but the
relative HP benefits of
the different turbos when anticipating a swap.
It's good enough
info that it bears reposting... a mini-education, also
by JackT,
posted on 10/25/99; it's replayed here below my sig, and
coming
soon to a web page near you. Get to the archives off the
Team3S
home page,
www.stealth-3000gt.stBest,
Forrest
"...13G
make at least 50+ hp more than the 9B. I did no other
changes on my '93
and went from 12.727 @ 107.562 mph to 12.172 @
112.890 mph quartermile on
8/31/94 going from 9B to 13G. This is
somewhat over 50hp, and I did not have
the VPC/550 injectors yet, so
had to limit boost to ~16-17psi or fuelcut came
in. In this
configuration, went best of 114.350 mph on 9/27/94, ~65hp
more (all
stats are NO nitrous in this letter, except as noted). --I
think
9B's can be good for about 410hp at wheels maxxed out with
standard
stuff...
...Once VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and
119.381 best
mph, on 4/8/95; about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained
about
110 hp with 13G over 9B, but given other changes 13G likely ~100
hp
better than 9B. 13G best ET was 11.702 @ 118.061 on 6/6/96;
this
was through traps in 3rd gear, on the rev limiter. I was the
first
3000GT in the 11's 5/17/95 with an 11.937 @ 118.338. --I think
13G
can be good for about 510hp at wheels maxxed out with
standard
stuff....
...15G best MPH was 11.387 @ 125.76 11/28/96 at the 1st
Annual
3000GT/Stealth vs. Diamond Star Shootout in Temple, TX with the
550
injectors; about 575 hp at the wheels, so 15G make about 75 hp
more
than 13 G, but note I made some other changes so 15G likely
~40-50hp
better than 13G. After that, 720cc injectors did not add any
mph to
trapspeed, indeed seemed to LOWER speed likely due to
over-rich
condition-- but lowered EGT a tad (max 1850 F at Temple) which
may
or may not have been good because knock could at random times mean
EGT
high due to retard, or due to a true lean mix. Best ET for me
with 15G
was 11.303 @ 122.54 at DSM Shootout 5/16/97, which I won
class in :) full
interior, as required by Dave Buschur...Adam Weltz
went ~11.25 "no
NOS". --I think 15G can be good for about 580hp at
wheels maxxed
out with standard stuff...
...My car made best 575 or so at wheels no NOS,
but that is not
"maxxed" because I always had stock intercoolers,
no headers, no
head/intake/throttlebodyporting/ignition/standalone
computer--with
THOSE parts, my "maxxed out" figures could be
somewhat higher...
...Best 3000GT/Stealth ET/MPH overall is still my 10.810 @
128.44
with 15G's, 50hp NOS
on 6/3/97..."
--JackT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 07:37:36 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler"
<
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
I can tell you the clutch on
my 1994 3000gt SL was replaced
at about 55,000 miles according to the dealer
that did it.
It was about 5,000 miles before I bought it so I don't know
how
it was driven before
that.
Bob
_______________________________________________________
Part
of original post:
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:22:17 -0600
From: Ron
Smith <
rsmith1@icsi.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
About 6 months ago the clutch went out
completetly (pedal to the floor,
no pressure) on my '93 3000GT/SL. I
took it to the friendly
neighborhood garage where I always get routine
service done, thinking it
was a simple burst hose or lack of fluid.
They ended up replacing both
the slave and master cylinders. Then a
week later it began losing
pressure again and I took it back - this time they
replaced a hose.
I asked if it is
normal to have to replace the clutch
on the 3000 at only 48,000 miles.
They said they have seen them go out as
early as 30,000. Does anybody
have an opinion on
that?
RS
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 08:58:23 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]
Dave,
The Redline
fluid (75W90 Gear Oil) HAS the additive in it. I spoke
to a rep at
Redline about it.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl
VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
David Margrave wrote:
>
> sorry if this is a repeat, but I didn't see my first post go
through...
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: limited slip additive?
> Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:03
-0800
> From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Hey,
> I just remembered, that when I changed my rear diff fluid
to redline,
> that I didn't add any type of limited slip additive which is
commonly
> done on other cars. I rechecked the shop manual and
didn't see anything
> mentioning additive in there. What do you all
do for rear diff fluid
> changes?
>
> Dave
> '91 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 06:29:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos
Whoooaaa, give people a chance. Be
patient. Not everybody is
glued to the computer screen.
I can't give
you particulars on switching out the turbos as I
was "fortunate"
enough to have my engine out being rebuilt when
I did mine. However, I may be
able to help you decide on which
turbos if you haven't bought them
already.
I took the time to add RPM line overlays to Mikael
Akesson's
compressor maps for the 15G and 18T. As you can see, the
18Ts
are FAR superior to the 15Gs (not attached to the Team3S
response as
per rules - too bad). You should contact Mikael, his
site
http://www.3000gt.nu, and past posts for
additional details
on availability. I think they would be worth the wait and
the
expense. By the way TEC upgraded both of my new 13Gs (Mitsubishi
Sport
Turbos) to 15Gs for $606 (US) plus tax in 1998. They also
sold the 13Gs at
that time for $730 (US) each. Talk to Jason at
1-800-950-8872;
www.turboengineering.com. And of
course contact
Brian La Fuenta at GT-PRO for other alternatives.
Hope
this helps a little.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt
Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 19, 2000 7:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swapping the
Turbos
Errin said:
> I really appreciate any and all help
answering a few
> questions regarding the removal and installation
of
> turbochargers on our wonderful engines.
>
> 1) Any
special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
> beforehand? (e.g.
gaskets, studs, etc.?). Any parts
> I might expect to break?
I'm already planning on
> putting in new oil lines for the
turbos.
...etc.
I find it difficult to believe that on this list
nobody has
advice to give on upgrading the turbos. I'm facing
this
seeminly challenging task myself and would also like to hear
any
words of wisdom from those who have been there before...
Special
tools required, special parts from Mitsu to have
on-hand, tricks to save
time/effort/money would all be welcome
bits of advice.
If not for any
other reason, it would be a great thing to have
information like that
available on one of the web pages.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
Beggin' for
15G's!
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 08:45:21 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Swapping the Turbos (Partial answer, Admin Note)
> It *will*
be a web page, eventually... Do I detect impatience? :-)
>
Errin posted his query on the weekend - yesterday, MOF, when I would
>
hope most of our members are out enjoying their cars in the
> springtime
air and not fielding email. Weekends are notoriously
> quiet for
replies, for that very reason. That's true on every list.
> I'm sure
those who have had experience in that area will reply
> *when* they check
in, and *if* they have the time, as always. In
> fact, I just saw
that JackT posted the answer that you and Errin
> were looking
for...
Sorry, I thought Errin sent his message in on Friday instead of
Saturday. Still a little impatient on my part, but I've noticed that if a
question goes more than a day or two unanswered then there usually isn't an
answer forthcoming.
As payment for my impatience, I offer to fully
document my turbo swap in words and pictures if I decide to tackle the task
myself (probably). :-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 07:21:56 -0800
From: "Sandie Morrison" <
sandie@netst.com>
Subject: Team3S:
URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?
Well, I've narrowed it down
to two options for a service contract for the
1991 VR4 I'm getting ready to
buy. Either Platinum Warranty Corp
(www.platinumwarrantycorp.com) or PRco
(www.prcousa.com). Platinum's
coverage is 3 yr/36K miles for $1600 and
includes gaskets. PRco's coverage
is 2 yr/24K miles for $1900 and does not
include gaskets (extra $150).
However my friend who owns a repair shop
recommended PRco because they have
always been very fair with claims that his
shop has made. Platinum only does
a CarFax report (I've already done that and
its clean) while PRco has an
inspector inspect the car before they insure
it.
Do any of you have any experience with these two companies? Or is
there a
better one that I'm missing?
- -Mike
Morrison
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 09:42:47 -0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?
Mike,
I'd also
check with your auto insurance company to see if they offer
anything. I
got a 3 year unlimited mileage from Allstate for my '95 RT/TT
for
$1100. Only parts not covered are brake and clutch linings.
Already
had to have them replace my knock sensor. All I paid was the
$50
deductible. Other insurance companies may offer similar warranties,
or
check with Allstate.
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Sandie Morrison [
SMTP:sandie@netst.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 20, 2000 9:22 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stCc:
wkock1@san.rr.comSubject: Team3S:
URGENT: Service Contracts: Platinum vs PRco?
Well, I've narrowed it down
to two options for a service contract
for the
1991 VR4 I'm getting ready
to buy. Either Platinum Warranty Corp
(
www.platinumwarrantycorp.com) or
PRco (
www.prcousa.com).
Platinum's
coverage is 3 yr/36K miles for $1600 and includes gaskets.
PRco's
coverage
is 2 yr/24K miles for $1900 and does not include gaskets
(extra
$150).
However my friend who owns a repair shop recommended PRco
because
they have
always been very fair with claims that his shop has
made. Platinum
only does
a CarFax report (I've already done that and its
clean) while PRco
has an
inspector inspect the car before they insure
it.
Do any of you have any experience with these two companies? Or
is
there a
better one that I'm missing?
-Mike
Morrison
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 Mar 2000 14:18:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Addco anti-sway bars
[Note: message posted to both Team3S and
Starnet lists]
If this is an old topic I apologize. I have not yet made
it
through all the old posts.
Does anyone have any experience or
opinions concerning the Addco
anti-sway bars on our cars? Addco front bar is
1" (stock bar is
0.91"), for what I calculate as a 54% increase in
stiffness
using the D^4 rule. Addco rear bar is 0.875" (stock is
0.86"),
for a 7% increase in stiffness.
1) understeer/oversteer.
I am guessing that the stronger front
stabilizer bar may increase understeer,
something we don't need
more of. And that the rear bar may increase oversteer
slightly
but would it be enough to balance the stronger front bar?
2)
lean angle. Has anyone measured lean angles with stock
suspension, with
aftermarket springs, with Addco bars, with
springs and bars?
3) bar
dimensions/mounting. Besides diameter, are the other
dimensions the same and
would any modification be required to
mount the bars? Other dimensional
changes would also affect
overall bar stiffness.
4) Experiences.
Anyone care to mention their experiences with
this add-on?
Thanks in
advance for any comments.
Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #87
********************