team3s             Sunday, March 19 2000             Volume 01 : Number 086




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Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 22:08:30 -0800
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: drive shaft center bearing replacement]

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another one I didn't see hit the list:



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Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:14:56 -0800
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
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To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: drive shaft center bearing replacement
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Sometimes I get the driveline noise on clutch engagement, and especially
disengagement.  It can be particularly glaring when going slow in 1st,
and then disengaging the clutch.  I've already tried adjusting the
clutch pedal height and I'm thinking of replacing the driveshaft center
bearings and maybe the lobro joint (what the heck is that?)

Has anyone attempted this procedure themselves?  I'm a little concerned
about things being out of balance when I put it all back together, given
how many alignment marks you have to make when disassembling things,
etc.  I've done a clutch myself so I think I can handle it but want some
pointers.

Thanks,

Dave



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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 07:18:14 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?

RS:

    IMHO, a clutch can go bad in as little as 12,000.  It all depends on how
the car is driven and how good the driver is with the clutch.  If there are a
lot of jack rabbit starts, slipping the clutch to prevent the car from
drifting, "power" shifting from one gear to the next, etc., then the clutch
is going to go bad quickly.

    There are no real adjustments to make.  Our system is hydraulic and once
it begins slipping, it's time to change it.  Certainly you do not want to
drive the rivets of the clutch disc into your flywheel!

    IMHO, I'd replace it. 

Joe 91TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 07:23:16 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: [Fwd: drive shaft center bearing replacement]

the parts you are thinking of replacing I believe are quite expensive.  If
the bearings and joints were bad, you would probably get a great deal of
vibration, especially at highway speeds. I'd make sure these parts are bad
and are the source of your problem first.

Joe 91TT

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 13:30:43 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Swapping the Turbos

Hello friends,

If things go well, I'll be putting new turbos in 'da car
pretty soon here.

I really appreciate any and all help answering a few
questions regarding the removal and installation of
turbochargers on our wonderful engines.

1) Any special parts I should order from Mitsubishi
beforehand?  (e.g. gaskets, studs, etc.?).  Any parts
I might expect to break?  I'm already planning on
putting in new oil lines for the turbos.

2) Any special tools I'll need?  I remember somebody
once saying that I'll need every extension in existence.
Anything in particular I should definitely grab?  I was
thinking of buying that special socket for the O2 sensors.

3) I was also thinking of having the exhaust manifolds
ceramic coated (withstands 2000F).  Is this a good/bad
idea, and would I need new gaskets for them?

4) On the front turbo, is it really necessary to remove
the drive belt and alternator like the service manual says?

5) While I've got the rear O2 sensor housing out, has
anyone ever looked into getting it machined out a bit?

6) Back to the turbo oil feed lines.  According to the
service manual, removing the oil feed pipe requires
removing the air conditioning compressor, tension
pulley bracket and air conditioner compressor bracket.
Yikes!  Does this sound right?

7) If Hau's measurements were correct, I have low
compression in one of my cylinders (~130 I think).  Can
this cause problems with bigger turbos (i.e increase the
likelihood of engine failure)?  I'm just wondering what
might have caused this in a car which at the time had only
30k miles on it.  Argrhh, this question is too broad.
Forget I asked.

8) If anyone has any old posts saved with info on
swapping turbos, could you please send them to me?

9) Any other last minute sage advice?  (other than "don't
forget to add oil, coolant and torque the lugnuts after-
wards" ... )  ^_^

- --Errin
94 VR4
Seattle


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 17:12:43 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible source for Getrag synchros?

One more point of interest for the ongoing Getrag saga:

I just ran across an ad for a company called Richmond Gear. They apparently
manufacture manual transmissions for a variety of street/race applications.
An ad in a "JEG's" catalog lists a GM-Style 6-speed overdrive trans w/
"NASCAR proven heavy-duty brass synchro rings".

Perhaps they could be a source for new synchro sets? They have a website at:

http://www.richmondgear.com

We might talk them into duplicating a set of healthy synchros if someone
could supply a set.

Paul Klusman

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 08:58:16 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Possible source for Getrag synchros?

The Richmond Gear brass rings, for "GM-Style" trans
are a different style than ours.  Synchro rings
for classic (Super T-10 etc) transmissions are machined
out of brass.  Ours are all steel parts, and on 1-2, one steel
ring with metal tabs sticking out like prongs on a king's crown,
that has a sintered brass-like COATING on it that is the
synchro's friction/wear surface.  If that was all brass, the
metal tabs could be too soft, and might peen/wear/get
smushed by the 1st gear they mesh into.
  The GM type brass synchros synchronize by using a
machined-in series of lines on the side aspects, that
rather than the sandpaper-like sintered stuff we use
on our Getrags.
  Still, would be interesting to see if there is any crossover
or knowledge of replacement parts/changes by calling
Richmond...if one could get through to somebody other
than a janitor (typical phone-question-answerer  :)

Jack Tertadian

Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:

> One more point of interest for the ongoing Getrag saga:
> I just ran across an ad for a company called Richmond Gear. They apparently
> manufacture manual transmissions for a variety of street/race applications.
> An ad in a "JEG's" catalog lists a GM-Style 6-speed overdrive trans w/
> "NASCAR proven heavy-duty brass synchro rings".
> Perhaps they could be a source for new synchro sets? They have a website at:
> http://www.richmondgear.com
> We might talk them into duplicating a set of healthy synchros if someone
> could supply a set.
> Paul Klusman


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #86
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