team3s
Friday, March 17
2000
Volume 01 : Number
085
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:03 -0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: limited slip additive?
Hey,
I just remembered, that when I
changed my rear diff fluid to redline,
that I didn't add any type of limited
slip additive which is commonly
done on other cars. I rechecked the
shop manual and didn't see anything
mentioning additive in there. What
do you all do for rear diff fluid
changes?
Dave
'91 R/T
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:14:56 -0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: drive shaft center bearing replacement
Sometimes I get the
driveline noise on clutch engagement, and especially
disengagement. It
can be particularly glaring when going slow in 1st,
and then disengaging the
clutch. I've already tried adjusting the
clutch pedal height and I'm
thinking of replacing the driveshaft center
bearings and maybe the lobro
joint (what the heck is that?)
Has anyone attempted this procedure
themselves? I'm a little concerned
about things being out of balance
when I put it all back together, given
how many alignment marks you have to
make when disassembling things,
etc. I've done a clutch myself so I
think I can handle it but want
some
pointers.
Thanks,
Dave
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 07:22:04 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tire rubbing on shock
Lorne Silkes wrote:
>
>
How about a bad wheel bearing that is causing the actual wheel/tire/hub
to
> move too much and make contact with the strut. That seems like
it would be
> a very bad wheel bearing and you'd notice a degradation of
handling. Just a
> wild guess though.
>
> Lorne
Silkes
This was my first thought as well, as the rubbing is rhythmic,
once per
revolution (even after tire rotation!), and I *have* noticed a
degradation of
handling. I checked for wheel play (jacked up that
corner and tried to rock the
wheel) but found none. Wouldn't a wheel
bearing that bad be exposed by this
test? How else can I test the wheel
bearings? I did ask the Mitsu dealer to
check things out and their
conclusion was that all the mechanicals are fine and
that my tires are just
too big (stock rims with stock size Michelins
installed!). They seem
pretty incompetent, so I'm not convinced there isn't
anything wrong with the
mechanicals...
The handling problem I've been experiencing is slightly
excessive oversteer and
non-linear steering. What I mean by the latter
is that I can be holding the
wheel at a fixed position in a turn and feel the
car wallow, almost like it's
tightening and loosening the turn somehow.
Hard to explain. All suspension
components are stock, car is nearing
80k miles. Mitsu checked four-wheel
steering and performed alignment
last fall. Visual inspection from below
reveals nothing out of the
ordinary.
Thanks... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany (soon to be Munich, Germany!)
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N
FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),
Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
Porterfield brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16
sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 13:20:30 +0100
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
And you have it
every time you turn on the RIGHT...
Refill your Windshield WASHER fluid,
it's LOW...
and no, it's NOT the engine coolant
indicator
Best
Henri
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Frank Hayden
Sent: Friday, 17 March 2000 01:54
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
Importance:
High
>This is my first question for this
list...
>
>I have a 92 Stealth TT, in the lower right hand corner of
the
instrument
>display there is a light that goes on and off, it looks
like a
little bird
>cage. The car did not come with the owners
manual, and I searched
the 3S
>backup cd to frustration and no
answers.
>
>It comes on more when it is cold outside. It also
comes on when I
hit the
>brakes fairly hard. Comes on when I am
making a fairly tight turn,
usually
>left handed
turn.
>
>Can someone please explain what this is and how to fix
it?
>
>Thanks
>
>Frank Hayden
>Golden,
CO
>92 Stealth R/T TT (106K Miles)
>Completely Stock
>K&N
FIPK being contemplated
>
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:08:06 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler"
<
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Jackpoint
Maybe someone could tell us how to jack up the
whole
side of the car as I would like to rotate my tires and
I believe the
manual warns against jacking up the side
using jacks because damage to the
frame could result.
I have a good 2-ton floor jack and another 6-ton
hydraulic
jack with a very small (about 1" diameter)
circular
"attach" point. I have a tire that pulls slightly to
the
left on the front and I'd like to put it on the rear
(94 3000gt SL
standard trans). Thanks ahead of time.
Bob
>Hi, I just
had a quick and simple question for you all. I just wanted
to
know
>that with the aid of one hydrolic jack and two jack stands,
how would i
lift
>the REAR portion of the car? I need a complete lift
in the back (i.e. a
lift
>high enough to change the wheels,
etc..).
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:22:17 -0600
From: Ron Smith <
rsmith1@icsi.net>
Subject: Team3S:
3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
About 6 months ago the clutch went out
completetly (pedal to the floor,
no pressure) on my '93 3000GT/SL. I
took it to the friendly
neighborhood garage where I always get routine
service done, thinking it
was a simple burst hose or lack of fluid.
They ended up replacing both
the slave and master cylinders. Then a
week later it began losing
pressure again and I took it back - this time they
replaced a hose.
All was well for a few weeks. Then I began
to notice the clutch
'slipping' when I accelerated. It only did it once
in a while at first,
but then began to be chronic. This time I took it
to the Mitsubishi
dealer and they simply said 'replace the clutch'. I
asked if it is
normal to have to replace the clutch on the 3000 at only
48,000 miles.
They said they have seen them go out as early as 30,000.
Does anybody
have an opinion on that?
I'm wondering if I should
just accept the fact that the entire clutch
assembly has to be replaced, or
if there are other options / adjustments
that I should explore. Any
comments would be appreciated.
RS
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 22:11:52 GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
140,000 miles on a 91 TT - original
clutch. (starting to slip under strong
launches though)
Tranny a
different story- replaced with new at 100,000.
Tim
Dallas, TX
-
----Original Message Follows----
From: Ron Smith <
rsmith1@icsi.net>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 15:22:17
-0600
About 6 months ago the clutch went out completetly (pedal to the
floor,
no pressure) on my '93 3000GT/SL. I took it to the
friendly
neighborhood garage where I always get routine service done,
thinking it
was a simple burst hose or lack of fluid. They ended up
replacing both
the slave and master cylinders. Then a week later it
began losing
pressure again and I took it back - this time they replaced a
hose.
All was well for a few weeks. Then I began to notice the
clutch
'slipping' when I accelerated. It only did it once in a while at
first,
but then began to be chronic. This time I took it to the
Mitsubishi
dealer and they simply said 'replace the clutch'. I asked if
it is
normal to have to replace the clutch on the 3000 at only 48,000
miles.
They said they have seen them go out as early as 30,000. Does
anybody
have an opinion on that?
I'm wondering if I should just accept
the fact that the entire clutch
assembly has to be replaced, or if there are
other options / adjustments
that I should explore. Any comments would
be appreciated.
RS
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:20:31 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000GT/SL Clutch replace?
> All was well for a few
weeks. Then I began to notice the clutch
> 'slipping' when I
accelerated. It only did it once in a
> while at first,
> but
then began to be chronic. This time I took it to the Mitsubishi
>
dealer and they simply said 'replace the clutch'. I asked if it is
>
normal to have to replace the clutch on the 3000 at only
> 48,000 miles.
> They said they have seen them go out as early as 30,000. Does
anybody
> have an opinion on that?
Bought a '95 in '98
with 29,600mi on it. Had to replace the clutch within 3
days - wasn't
my driving:) Doing well so far...no slipping as of yet.
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 67,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
bye-bye
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 19:59:03 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <
ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: STALL/ low idle
>Don't sell your car just because of
this.
>I have been thinking about this but have been hesitant to post
a
>reply till I've done more research. But since you're
impatient
>:) ..., here are my initial opinions from what I have
learned
>from the manuals.
>
>At idle (i.e. when the throttle
plate is closed and the IPS,
>idle position switch, is "low")
the engine speed is controlled
>solely by the ISC (idle speed control)
servo - a stepper motor
>controlling the idle air by-pass valve (IABV).
The ISC servo is
>managed by the ECU. The ECU decides on the number of
steps (and
>how far the IABV is opened).
>
>After the engine
has warmed up and is at idle (PS, AC, and light
>switches off), the number
of ISC steps is determined from a
>mapped value in the ECU which depends
only on the engine coolant
>temperature sensor value. Here is where I
think the problem
>lies.
>
>I suspect that the engine coolant
temp sensor may be worn. It
>functions normally within certain temperature
limits (that is
>its resistance is linearly and inversely related to the
coolant
>temperature). Perhaps as the sensor ages, its response is out
of
>range of the ECU mapped values. Or, the sensor is fine and
the
>actual temperature is out of range. This may cause the ECU
to
>revert to a fail-safe setting that is inappropriate for the
high
>air and coolant temps at the moment.
>
>Testing the
sensor for this type of failure may be difficult.
>The TMO datalogger
might help here. I haven't priced them but I
>imagine a replacement is not
too expensive. However, if the
>sensor is functioning correctly, then it's
possible that the ECU
>ISC vs. temp map does not include the very-high
temps
>occasionally encountered - that is nothing is broken and this
is
>a "feature" of the ECU. The ECU is different for every model
so
>maybe we should take a poll and find out if certain
years/models
>are prone to this behaviour.
>
>Just my $2
worth. Anybody else's thoughts on this???
Jeff-
I've never had the
problem you address, but am impressed
with your knowledge of the ECU and
sensor(s) involved.
Nice to know there's someone on the list who is up to
date
on these particulars.
Regards,
ptg
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 22:08:07 -0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: [Fwd: limited slip additive?]
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sorry if this is a repeat, but I didn't see my first post go
through...
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Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:00:03 -0800
From: David Margrave <
davidma@premier1.net>
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limited slip additive?
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Hey,
I just remembered, that when I changed my rear diff
fluid to redline,
that I didn't add any type of limited slip additive which
is commonly
done on other cars. I rechecked the shop manual and didn't
see anything
mentioning additive in there. What do you all do for rear
diff fluid
changes?
Dave
'91 R/T TT
-
--------------A110BA23299EBA548AF8C02F--
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #85
********************