team3s
Thursday, March 16
2000 Volume 01
: Number
084
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 06:53:02 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Shootout 2000 is ON!
Shootout 2000 is ON!
Friday July 21
2000 at Norwalk, Ohio Dragstrip is DSM and
3000/Stealth
drags...
a beautiful track!
Saturday July
22 is Autocross event (Minnesota 3S member
Matt
Jannusch
WON his class in the big 3S...even vs. the
DSM's, in 1999 as I
recall!)
and a Car
Show.
Sunday July 23 at Norwalk Dragstrip is an official IDRA Import
Drag
Racing
Association meet, with all Imports
welcome. My buddy is coming with
his
134+mph
Supra, for instance...
There are over 250 DSM's at this event, all
"relatives" of ours with the
same
turbo/import interest.
From my group we have 8 people going already,
should
be my 3000 and 2
others. The location is pretty central and easy to get
to
the
city. There are hotels in the area, we got 2 rooms already
at
Econolodge.
There should be a website, can check buschurracing.com and
clubDSM
www.dsm.org will eventually have a
link.
With the 2 drag events, and an Autocross, and a car show, this is
the
premier
event of the year for us to go to IMO!
Jack
Tertadian
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 09:16:10 EST
From:
DSMDealer1@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Shootout 2000 is ON!
Yes, Tym (Switzer) and I spoke the other day and it
looks like everything is
patched up between Buschur/Norwalk/Summit.
Everyone kissed and made up, and
Shootout '00 is back on!! I look forward to
seeing you out there (I'll be
sans 3KGT VR4 and with Galant VR4) and
enjoying some tire-smoking, AWD
launches! Make this event if you
possibly can....it's never a
disappointment!!!!
Josh
'91 Galant
VR4
'92 3000GT VR4
'90 Eclipse GSX
'87 Mighty Max (soon 4G63
powered!!)
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 08:35:38 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Shootout 2000 is ON!
>Saturday July 22 is Autocross event
(Minnesota 3S member Matt
>Jannusch WON his class in the big 3S...even vs.
the DSM's, in
> 1999 as I recall!) and a Car Show.
Well, second
place anyway... ;-) If I can get second place in Stock class (which
for this event isn't really stock - just stock turbos and suspension
essentially) in the weight-challenged Spyder then a good driver in a TT/VR4
should have a good shot and winning the class and getting some free stuff.
I believe the big prize for 1st place was a full set of Khumo autocross tires
and a gift certificate to Bushur Raching.
> From my group we have 8
people going already, should be my 3000
> and 2 others. The location
is pretty central and easy to get
> to the city. There are hotels in
the area, we got 2 rooms
> already at Econolodge.
Probably at least
2 or 3 of us from Minnesota as well.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 08:50:13 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1/3rd off from CarParts (off-topic)
Hey everyone,
I've
created another link to get 1/3rd off from CarParts.com. Just go to my
CarParts page at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
and click on one of
the links.
Then cut and paste this link into your
browswer:
http://www.carparts.com/parts/tellafriend/redeem.asp?ClaimId=B9C09F87AF6411D3B5C8009027E40903Happy
shopping,
Curt
Come join us at the Upper Midwest Gathering. Details
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.htmlp.s.
If you have questions, reply to me privatly.
Thanks.
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 09:24:52 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler"
<
RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 94 3000gt SL needs master cylinder, ECS OK
Well guys, just wanted
to let everybody know that I have to replace the
master cylinder on my '94
3000gt SL standard trans(68,000 miles): I was
having problems
shifting and when I finally checked the clutch reservoir it
was bone
dry. No leaks anywhere on the pavement. So I filled it
up and
it didn't go down for the 2 days I drove it. I ended up
taking it in to
the dealer because the clutch pedal still went down too
easily and first
gear was still a tad rough shifting into at times and they
said the o-ring
was most likely leaking to the master cylinder and the
whole master
cylinder needed replacing (because the o-ring sits inside the
sealed master
cylinder I guess): $387 here in
Houston. All of the lost fluid had
leaked into the padding
under the carpet inside the car, that's why I
couldn't see any
leaks.
I asked them to check the struts/shocks because I thought the ride
over
bumps in normal mode felt like the car was bottoming out more than
normal
but so far they didn't find anything and will drive it again after
the
master cylinder repair. I believe those cars have shocks,
maybe just a
bad shock or something.
Any and all comments
appreciated.
Bob
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 09:38:56 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tire rubbing on shock
Think about what happens when you install
the Plates though. You move the
mounting location of the strut
outwards. When you move the strut outwards,
you move the tire outwards
at the top. Someone remind me whether the
eccentric bolt on the strut
down by the hub is the top or lower mounting
bolt? If it's the top
bolt, then you need to see whether it is adjusted in
or out. If it's
adjusted so that the top is in all the way, then this could
be the source of
your problem. Now, if it's the lower bolt, then see if
it's adjusted
out all the way, this would also cause your
problem...
Cody
#Here's a good excuse to install GC camber
plates ---- In the stock
#setup the negative
#camber is obtained buy
tipping the top of the tire towards the
#strut, while the GC camber
#plate
moves the top of the strut toward the center of the car.
#You could adjust
the stock adjustment max positive [ top of tire
#away from strut ] and
then
#get your negative camber by moving the strut toward the
centerline
#of the car.
#
# Jim
Berry
#
#P.S. under static conditions how much clearance do you
have
#between the tire and
the
# strut ??? Also is
it the same for the right and left.
#
#***Info:
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#
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 09:06:39 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tire rubbing on shock
>
> BTW, I've attached the results of my
alignment. It's in German: links means
> left, rechts means right,
vorne is front, hinten is rear, vorher is before, nach
> is after. I
assume fahrachswinkel is steering wheel. Perhaps someone can
>
translate nachlauf, sturz and spur for us, but you can probably figure them
out
> by the ranges and settings.
============================================
nachlauf =
caster
sturz = camber
spur = toe
The following link is a
translation program --- it appears to be literal, the word
nachlauf is
translated as ' run after ' which does describe caster.
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/cgi-bin/translate?
Jim Berry
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 09:30:40 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tire rubbing on shock
Cody wrote
> Think about what happens
when you install the Plates though. You move the
> mounting location
of the strut outwards.
not necessarily ----you can locate the top of the
strut wherever you want it,
within reason of course. You want it set such
that you can get your camber
from about 30' positive to 3 ½ º
negative. BTW this also includes setting the
stock adjuster max positive to
get the most strut
clearance.
===========================================================
>
When you move the strut outwards, you move the tire outwards at the
top.
That's true but it's the relationship between the tire and the strut
that you
care
about
===========================================================
>
Someone remind me whether the
> eccentric bolt on the strut down by the
hub is the top or lower mounting
> bolt? If it's the top bolt, then
you need to see whether it is adjusted in
> or out. If it's adjusted
so that the top is in all the way, then this could
> be the source of your
problem. Now, if it's the lower bolt, then see if
> it's adjusted
out all the way, this would also cause your problem...
The bottom bolt is
the fixed pivot and the top is the adjustment --- the setting
of the top bolt
is determined by the amount of camber you want.
If you look at his follow
up message with the alignment specs you see that
he has almost no negative
camber [ not good for handling ] and the strut
clearance is almost zero so no
additional negative camber can be generated.
I can't tell the setting of the
eccentric bolt but if it can be adjusted for more
positive camber then
the camber plates could correct the problem plus
allow you to get a better
camber setting.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 13:26:55 -0500
From: "Fred Richardson" <
rich@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Offset for
gen2 cars
Does anyone know the offset in mm needed to clear the rotors on
a generation
2 RT TT or VRA4 ?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:47:05 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tire rubbing on shock
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> The
bottom bolt is the fixed pivot and the top is the adjustment --- the
setting
> of the top bolt is determined by the amount of camber you
want.
>
> If you look at his follow up message with the alignment
specs you see that
> he has almost no negative camber [ not good for
handling ] and the strut
> clearance is almost zero so no additional
negative camber can be generated.
> I can't tell the setting of the
eccentric bolt but if it can be adjusted for more
> positive camber
then the camber plates could correct the problem plus
> allow you to get a
better camber setting.
Anyone have any clue as to why my car would
exhibit this problem? Seems like
only those with suspension mods or
extreme adjustment requirements need such
aftermarket alignment equipment -
mine is 100% stock! Is this just a symptom of
a more serious problem
elsewhere? Can it really just be some strange tire
anomaly?
It
seems that my options are:
1) replace the tires
2) install wheel
spacers
3) install camber plates
> nachlauf = caster
>
sturz = camber
> spur = toe
Thanks (I am ignorant about alignment
terminology and was unable to figure them
out from literal
translations). Why is there no caster setting for the rears?
What
settings would you recommend for street use? Note that I'm looking at
40k
miles of tread wear on these Pilots, which seems excessive by any
measure, so I
can handle additional wear.
Thanks to all for the
helpful posts!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany (soon to be
Munich, Germany!)
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N
FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),
Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
Porterfield brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16
sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 13:41:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: STALL/ low idle
Scott,
Don't sell your car just
because of this.
I have been thinking about this but have been hesitant
to post a
reply till I've done more research. But since you're
impatient
:) ..., here are my initial opinions from what I have
learned
from the manuals.
At idle (i.e. when the throttle plate is
closed and the IPS,
idle position switch, is "low") the engine
speed is controlled
solely by the ISC (idle speed control) servo - a stepper
motor
controlling the idle air by-pass valve (IABV). The ISC servo
is
managed by the ECU. The ECU decides on the number of steps (and
how far
the IABV is opened).
After the engine has warmed up and is at idle (PS,
AC, and light
switches off), the number of ISC steps is determined from
a
mapped value in the ECU which depends only on the engine
coolant
temperature sensor value. Here is where I think the
problem
lies.
I suspect that the engine coolant temp sensor may be
worn. It
functions normally within certain temperature limits (that is
its
resistance is linearly and inversely related to the coolant
temperature).
Perhaps as the sensor ages, its response is out of
range of the ECU mapped
values. Or, the sensor is fine and the
actual temperature is out of range.
This may cause the ECU to
revert to a fail-safe setting that is inappropriate
for the high
air and coolant temps at the moment.
Testing the sensor
for this type of failure may be difficult.
The TMO datalogger might help
here. I haven't priced them but I
imagine a replacement is not too expensive.
However, if the
sensor is functioning correctly, then it's possible that the
ECU
ISC vs. temp map does not include the very-high temps
occasionally
encountered - that is nothing is broken and this is
a "feature" of
the ECU. The ECU is different for every model so
maybe we should take a poll
and find out if certain years/models
are prone to this behaviour.
Just
my $2 worth. Anybody else's thoughts on this???
Jeff Lucius, 3SI
#476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Hartin" <
SHartin@blizzard.com>
To: <
stealth@starnet.net>
Sent: Thursday,
March 16, 2000 12:50 PM
Subject: STALL/ low idle
I posted this about a
week ago, but ill post again see if anyone
has any thoughts:
I have
this same problem in my 92 RT/TT ....
When i start the car up and it is
completely cold (not been
running for at least a few hours) it runs
fine. However, if i
start it up and its hot (run in the last few hours)
it idles
very rough and low (around 500-600rpm) ...
It has yet to stall,
but feels like it will at any moment.
Also, the car stumbles a lot at low
rpm (below 3500) and low
boost ... Its very annoying and im actually
considering trading
the car in if i cant find the problem.
>
>
Scott
> 92
RT/TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 16:12:39 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: STALL/ low idle
> After the engine has warmed up and is at
idle (PS, AC, and light
> switches off), the number of ISC steps is
determined from a
> mapped value in the ECU which depends only on the
engine coolant
> temperature sensor value. Here is where I think the
problem
> lies.
On the DSM cars (Eclipse, Talon, Laser), they use
an identical setup for idle control and experience similar problems to what is
being described here. The usual culprit is a dirty or bad ISC. The
ISC can get gummed up and not extend fully enough to control idle
properly. There is also a base idle set screw that sometimes can work its
way out of the throttle body which will let unmetered air into the throttle body
and cause these sorts of symptoms as well (stumbling at lower RPMs and poor
idle). Might want to check that as well. In the service manual look
under the section that describes how to set base idle (not in the owners manual,
but in the real service manuals).
If you can't find it or figure it out,
let me know and I'll take a closer look at my car and try to explain it
better. Sounds like a simple problem though, nothing I'd get rid of the
car over...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 15:01:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: STALL/ low idle
I agree with you there Matt about the ISC
and BISS. The ISC is
probably working fine (that is extending fully) if the
car idles
properly when cold, steps are usually around 100 on the TMO.
So
maybe the ISC motor doesn't work properly when it is hot. I
think Moe
P. already suggested this. The BISS is easy to check
and the #5 O-ring it
uses can be purchased for pennies at a
hardware store. I do not think the
BISS is the problem though.
But let's think about this some more. When
the engine is very
hot, and the air probably very hot too, fuel will tend
to
vaporize easier. According to the DSM Tech Manual p. 14-43 the
DSM ECU
increases the injector pulse width (IPW) for a little
while. Maybe the 3S ECU
does the same thing but injects too much
fuel. Some complaints are that the
engine seems to be flooded.
On p. 14-53 the DSM manual notes also that the
ISC steps are
increased too at start-up with a hot engine. Maybe our IPW
is
too large for the ISC steps, in other words the ECU isn't
programmed
correctly for this very-hot start situation.
To summarize some of the
possible problems (and solutions):
1) ISC malfunctions when hot (test
resistances at connector when
hot and replace if bad),
2) coolant temp
sensor aged/malfunctioning (test when hot and
replace,
3) IPW incorrect
because of voltage problems (check battery when
it is hot, the ECU changes
IPW based on battery charge), or
4) ECU misprogrammed (open hood and let
engine cool or intercept
and modify one or more sensors signals).
Just
some more ideas :)
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modifed
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 16, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: STALL/ low
idle
> After the engine has warmed up and is at idle (PS, AC,
and
> light switches off), the number of ISC steps is determined
>
from a mapped value in the ECU which depends only on the
engine
>
coolant temperature sensor value. Here is where I think the
> problem
lies.
On the DSM cars (Eclipse, Talon, Laser), they use an
identical
setup for idle control and experience similar problems to
what
is being described here. The usual culprit is a dirty or
bad
ISC. The ISC can get gummed up and not extend fully enough
to
control idle properly. There is also a base idle set screw
that
sometimes can work its way out of the throttle body which will
let
unmetered air into the throttle body and cause these sorts
of symptoms as
well (stumbling at lower RPMs and poor idle).
Might want to check that as
well. In the service manual look
under the section that describes how
to set base idle (not in
the owners manual, but in the real service
manuals).
If you can't find it or figure it out, let me know and I'll
take
a closer look at my car and try to explain it better.
Sounds
like a simple problem though, nothing I'd get rid of the
car
over...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:56:41 EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Rear
Jackpoint
Hi, I just had a quick and simple question for you all. I just
wanted to know
that with the aid of one hydrolic jack and two jack stands,
how would i lift
the REAR portion of the car? I need a complete lift in the
back (i.e. a lift
high enough to change the wheels,
etc..).
Basically, all I want to know is what is the rear jackpoint? And
is there one
in the middle so i can lift the whole rear end up (because i
only have one
jack).
Thanks - P.S. I would appreaciate it if you
could send a copy of your reply
to my e-mail address in case i miss it when
i'm looking through all the posts.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:53:17 -0500
From: "William Buckingham" <
wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: FW:
Team3S: Rear Jackpoint
AA,
See John's Repair Center for instructions
on lifting a 3s.
http://user.icx.net/~adams/jacking_instructions.htmGood
Luck
Bill
91 rt/tt stock
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of
AABOMB1@aol.comSent:
Thursday, March 16, 2000 6:57 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Rear Jackpoint
Hi, I just had a quick and simple question for
you all. I just wanted to
know
that with the aid of one hydrolic jack and
two jack stands, how would i lift
the REAR portion of the car? I need a
complete lift in the back (i.e. a lift
high enough to change the wheels,
etc..).
Basically, all I want to know is what is the rear jackpoint? And
is there
one
in the middle so i can lift the whole rear end up (because i
only have one
jack).
Thanks - P.S. I would appreaciate it if you could
send a copy of your reply
to my e-mail address in case i miss it when i'm
looking through all the
posts.
AA
- -------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:07:34 -0500
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: STALL/ low idle
You do not need a datalogger to test the
coolant temp sensor. The different
resistance across it over certain
temp ranges are listed in the service
manual. I tested mine with a pot
of water on the stove, a candy
thermometer, and a multi-meter. Took me
about 10 minutes.
I doubt that the temp sensor is "worn" since
it has no moving parts. They
are fairly reliable these days. My
guess would be ISC motor since this has
moving parts and can wear, get stuck,
get dirty, or become maladjusted.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White
'91 R/T
Vancouver, BC
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I suspect that the engine coolant temp sensor
may be worn. It
> functions normally within certain temperature limits
(that is
> its resistance is linearly and inversely related to the
coolant
> temperature). Perhaps as the sensor ages, its response is out
of
> range of the ECU mapped values. Or, the sensor is fine and
the
> actual temperature is out of range. This may cause the ECU
to
> revert to a fail-safe setting that is inappropriate for the
high
> air and coolant temps at the moment.
>
> Testing the
sensor for this type of failure may be difficult.
> The TMO datalogger
might help here. I haven't priced them but I
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 17:54:28 -0700
From: "Frank Hayden" <
frankliz@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
>This is my first question for this
list...
>
>I have a 92 Stealth TT, in the lower right hand corner of
the
instrument
>display there is a light that goes on and off, it looks
like a
little bird
>cage. The car did not come with the owners
manual, and I searched
the 3S
>backup cd to frustration and no
answers.
>
>It comes on more when it is cold outside. It also
comes on when I
hit the
>brakes fairly hard. Comes on when I am
making a fairly tight turn,
usually
>left handed
turn.
>
>Can someone please explain what this is and how to fix
it?
>
>Thanks
>
>Frank Hayden
>Golden,
CO
>92 Stealth R/T TT (106K Miles)
>Completely Stock
>K&N
FIPK being contemplated
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 16:57:57 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear Jackpoint
Lesse...trailer hitch works well. (if
you have one)
LSD is a winner as well.
:-----Original
Message-----
:From:
AABOMB1@aol.com [
mailto:AABOMB1@aol.com]
:Sent: Thursday,
March 16, 2000 3:57 PM
:To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st:Subject:
Team3S: Rear Jackpoint
:
:
:Hi, I just had a quick and simple question
for you all. I just
:wanted to know
:that with the aid of one hydrolic
jack and two jack stands,
:how would i lift
:the REAR portion of the
car? I need a complete lift in the
:back (i.e. a lift
:high enough to
change the wheels, etc..).
:
:Basically, all I want to know is what is the
rear jackpoint?
:And is there one
:in the middle so i can lift the whole
rear end up (because i
:only have one
:jack).
:
:Thanks - P.S. I
would appreaciate it if you could send a copy
:of your reply
:to my
e-mail address in case i miss it when i'm looking
:through all the
posts.
:
:AA
:-------------------
:E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com:Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
:
:***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
:
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 19:43:52 -0800
From: "Francis Morice" <
fas3@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
Frank,
I had the same problem
with my 93RT/TT and now my96RT/TT and I believe it to
be your low coolant
indicator. Since I took my 96 out of storage and the
mornings are still
pretty cold up here in Minnesota it will come on when I
first fire her
up. After it warms up it no longer lights up. I would guess
the
coolant may need to be topped off, not sure though.
Francis
96 RT/TT
13.13@104.85- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Frank Hayden <
frankliz@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 16, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Warning Lights
Explanation
>
>
> >This is my first question for
this list...
> >
> >I have a 92 Stealth TT, in the lower right
hand corner of the
> instrument
> >display there is a light that
goes on and off, it looks like a
> little bird
> >cage. The
car did not come with the owners manual, and I searched
> the 3S
>
>backup cd to frustration and no answers.
> >
> >It comes
on more when it is cold outside. It also comes on when I
> hit
the
> >brakes fairly hard. Comes on when I am making a fairly
tight turn,
> usually
> >left handed turn.
> >
>
>Can someone please explain what this is and how to fix it?
>
>
> >Thanks
> >
> >Frank Hayden
>
>Golden, CO
> >92 Stealth R/T TT (106K Miles)
> >Completely
Stock
> >K&N FIPK being contemplated
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:52:00 +1300
From:
Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nzSubject: RE:
Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
somewhere floating around out there
theres a .gif or .bmp file which has a
picture of the dash and a full
explanation of what all the lights mean.
somebody must have this
locally.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Francis Morice [
mailto:fas3@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday,
17 March 2000 4:44
To: Frank Hayden; T
Subject: Re: Team3S: Warning
Lights Explanation
Frank,
I had the same problem with my
93RT/TT and now my96RT/TT and I believe it to
be your low coolant
indicator. Since I took my 96 out of storage and the
mornings are still
pretty cold up here in Minnesota it will come on when I
first fire her
up. After it warms up it no longer lights up. I would guess
the
coolant may need to be topped off, not sure though.
Francis
96 RT/TT
13.13@104.85- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Frank Hayden <
frankliz@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 16, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Warning Lights
Explanation
>
>
> >This is my first question for
this list...
> >
> >I have a 92 Stealth TT, in the lower right
hand corner of the
> instrument
> >display there is a light that
goes on and off, it looks like a
> little bird
> >cage. The
car did not come with the owners manual, and I searched
> the 3S
>
>backup cd to frustration and no answers.
> >
> >It comes
on more when it is cold outside. It also comes on when I
> hit
the
> >brakes fairly hard. Comes on when I am making a fairly
tight turn,
> usually
> >left handed turn.
> >
>
>Can someone please explain what this is and how to fix it?
>
>
> >Thanks
> >
> >Frank Hayden
>
>Golden, CO
> >92 Stealth R/T TT (106K Miles)
> >Completely
Stock
> >K&N FIPK being contemplated
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 21:39:15 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <
rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Jackpoint
Rear differential is a jack point.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 16, 2000 6:56 PM
Subject: Team3S: Rear
Jackpoint
> Hi, I just had a quick and simple question for you
all. I just wanted to
know
> that with the aid of one hydrolic jack and
two jack stands, how would i
lift
> the REAR portion of the car? I need
a complete lift in the back (i.e. a
lift
> high enough to change the
wheels, etc..).
>
> Basically, all I want to know is what is the
rear jackpoint? And is there
one
> in the middle so i can lift the
whole rear end up (because i only have one
> jack).
>
> Thanks
- P.S. I would appreaciate it if you could send a copy of your
reply
>
to my e-mail address in case i miss it when i'm looking through all
the
posts.
>
> AA
> -------------------
> E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com> Fax: (707) 982-8817
[In United States]
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 20:50:18 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation (and idle help)
Hmmm,
How
about I answer two questions with one website. hehe... The warning
light pic your talking about is Kevin Clark's at:
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_gto_manual.html
in section
G.
Also, for the person looking to adjust his BISS idle
screw, that would be in
section A in the above link. Kevin Clark
should be getting a big smile on
his
face.........
later,
Curt
Come join us at the Upper Midwest
Gathering. Details at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
Ryan.Judd@axon.co.nz>To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Warning Lights Explanation
>Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:52:00
+1300
>
>somewhere floating around out there theres a .gif or .bmp
file which has a
>picture of the dash and a full explanation of what all
the lights mean.
>somebody must have this
locally.
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Francis Morice [
mailto:fas3@earthlink.net]
>Sent:
Friday, 17 March 2000 4:44
>To: Frank Hayden; T
>Subject: Re:
Team3S: Warning Lights
Explanation
>
>
>Frank,
>
>I had the same problem
with my 93RT/TT and now my96RT/TT and I believe it
>to
>be your low
coolant indicator. Since I took my 96 out of storage and
the
>mornings are still pretty cold up here in Minnesota it will come on
when I
>first fire her up. After it warms up it no longer lights
up. I would
>guess
>the coolant may need to be topped off,
not sure though.
>
>Francis
>96 RT/TT
13.13@104.85
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Mar 2000 22:01:23 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Warning Lights Explanation
It is the coolant level sensor telling you
your coolant is slightly low.
When you hit the brakes or steer hard,
the coolant drops in the area of the
sensor. Just top off your
coolant.
Joe 91 TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #84
********************