team3s
Wednesday, March 15
2000 Volume 01
: Number
082
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:57:15 -0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject: Team3S: I need a
new engine
I think the AVC-R was too much on the old engine (installed at
120k miles)
and it now has a compression problem on one of the cylinders,
plus it's
leaking oil (oil pump?) and has excessive "blow-by" or
air leaks in the
crankcase. It looks cheaper to just drop in a new
engine.
Would it be wise to install the same engine (92 3KVR4) or
something newer
(93+) or something completely different? I need
something that can handle
the extra boost, though I thought the stock would
be able to handle 1.00bar
already.
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 11:18:20 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clips
Hello Roger,
I just dabbed a bit of RTV onto TWO
corners of the clips. Slipped it on, and
it stays put and can't
"break" due to vibrations. I had to remove my intake
again because
I had to fix a stripped thread in there, and 5 days later, the
clips come off
pretty easily (not as easy as not having ANY metal clips, but
you do have to
pull on them).
Worked for me!
(I hate those damn clips, they
always fall into the most inconvenient places
:)
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 12:34:36 -0800
From: "Gula, James S" <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I
need a new engine
On Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:57:15 -0800
gil_lee@usa.net wrote:
> I think the
AVC-R was too much on the old engine (installed at 120k miles)
> and it
now has a compression problem on one of the cylinders, plus it's
> leaking
oil (oil pump?) and has excessive "blow-by" or air leaks in
the
> crankcase. It looks cheaper to just drop in a new
engine.
>
> Would it be wise to install the same engine (92 3KVR4)
or something newer
> (93+) or something completely different? I need
something that can handle
> the extra boost, though I thought the stock
would be able to handle 1.00bar
> already.
If I'm not mistaken, the
93+ engines use a "two bolt main".. after
talking with Arty I
think that means where it attaches to the drive
shaft or something in that
vicinity... which means you're limited to a
91 or 92 engine.. I'd be safe
and get a 92.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:04:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I need a new engine
Steve, you're joking right?
Gil,
The absolute cheapest solution is to pull the engine
yourself,
repair the short block, and re-install. Now if you want
to
improve the engine or make it like new, that will cost some
money (see
my mod list below).
To set the record straight, 1991 and 1992 blocks have
"2-bolt
mains". This means that the main bearing caps are held on
with
two bolts each. The 1993 and newer engines have "4-bolt
mains",
i.e. held on by four bolts and so stronger. In addition,
the
1993+ engines have surface-treated, steel crankshafts. The
1991-1992
have cast iron cranks. My engine builder thought that
my 92 engine (rod
bearing failure in 1997) would have no trouble
standing up to 500 HP (which
is my goal). But if you want
stronger, go with the 1993 blocks. I think they
will bolt to the
1992 heads (has somebody done this? and what about the
crank
angle sensor and wiring?).
Sorry to hear about your engine
problems, but remember you are
not alone, especially on this
list.
Jeff Lucius;
StealthMan92@yahoo.com; 3SI #476
Red
1992 Stealth TT; 3.056 L, 186 CI; completely rebuilt,
race-prepped and
balanced engine; 0.050"-oversized, forged,
no-silicon Venolia pistons
(8.2:1 CR); head flow work and port
matching; Magnecor 8.5 mm plug wires;
0.034" plug gap; 380
cc/min (balanced-stock) injectors; TEC 15G turbos;
GT Alley
intercoolers and 2" piping; front-mount oil cooler; K&N
FIPK;
GReddy Type-S BOV; improved pre-cats; ATR downpipe, cat,
and
cat-back exhaust; HKS EVC IV; Boost, FP, and dual EGT
gauges;
Centerforce DF clutch; PowerStop cross-drilled rotors;
Metal
Matrix pads; SMC brake lines; Nitto NT-555 P245/45ZR17;
Autopal
lights w/ H4 ultrawhites; window tint; TMO Datalogger; G-Tech
Pro;
[ARC2-GP, Denso 720 cc/min injectors, and Denso 90 gph fuel
pump to be added
soon].
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gula, James S"
<
gulajs@jmu.edu>
To: <
gil_lee@usa.net>
Cc: <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 14, 2000 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need a new
engine
On Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:57:15 -0800
gil_lee@usa.net wrote:
If I'm not
mistaken, the 93+ engines use a "two bolt main"..
after talking
with Arty I think that means where it attaches to
the drive shaft or
something in that vicinity... which means
you're limited to a 91 or 92
engine.. I'd be safe and get a 92.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 22:12:11 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Crankcase Oil Treatment
> The guy said both oil feed lines
were almost completely closed off with
> crud, which in turn caused the
turbos to fail.
Dino oil and shutting the car off with too hot oil in the
lines are the
causes for this :-(
> He is suggesting using a 3 step
crankcase flush to ensure the inside of
the
Yes, an engine flush IS
necessary. But you can do this by yourselfs too
after the new turbos found
their way into the engine bay.
> Has anyone had any experience with
this stuff and, more importantly, ended
> up with an oil burner
afterward?
No, there is no drawback but you must really follow the right
steps to clean
the engine.
> mechanic is ballparking at least an
additional $800 to replace the valve
> stem seals if it does began burning
oil.
I doubt that the seals are gone. Even if they are, one can do this
later as
the heads must not be removed for this.
Good
luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 22:18:17 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: I need a new engine
NO, you DON'T need a new engine.
Of
course you can go that way but it will be about twice the costs
!
> I think the AVC-R was too much on the old engine (installed at
120k miles)
> and it now has a compression problem on one of the
cylinders, plus it's
> leaking oil (oil pump?) and has excessive
"blow-by" or air leaks in the
> crankcase. It looks
cheaper to just drop in a new engine.
First, do a good engine flush and
use a good cleaner stuff to remove all
carbon deposits on the valves and
seats. If they are closing well the
compression test must be done again. Only
then one can tell if there is
really somethign going wrong. Also provide the
comrpession readings !
> Would it be wise to install the same engine
(92 3KVR4) or something newer
> (93+) or something completely
different? I need something that can handle
> the extra boost,
though I thought the stock would be able to handle
1.00bar
>
already.
What is extra boost ????? 2 bars ?? The stock engine is able to
handle more
than 1 bars. You probably did not listen to the engines signs as
well as you
already had some problems.
To do the job right get six
forged pistons (JE or so) and good rings
(TotalSeals or so). The engine MUST
NOT BE PULLED to do the job. We did it
with the engine in the bay and had no
problems. Cost including (stock)
pistons and rings was about $2800. Can you
find an engine for that price
including the swap ?????
Welcome to the
rebuild club
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 22:34:24 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Urgent question on tire size...
Shame on me for not
getting an alignment check after my tranny swap,
now my
front Pzeros are
hosed. I'm just getting down to the belts on the front
right
so I
need to do something ASAP. I'm considering AVS Intermediates
or
Sports,
Pzeros are expensive... I'm also considering going wider,
traction is
beginning
to be a problem. According to a tire
calculator size calculator I found
275/40s
would be VERY close in
circumference. Would 275s fit? Anyone tried
this
size
successfully? I'm at stock ride height currently but want to
change
that in the
future, would this pose further
problems?
thanks,
Jason
p.s. Anyone interested in 2
slightly used Pzeros?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 09:35:36 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Urgent question on tire size...
275/40-xx are an over-over-kill.
I run 255/40-17 and am not happy with them at all. The best compromise for our
car is 245/45-17 all around. The wider the tire the more the rotating mass and
less riding quality.
For the AVS I'm not happy at all with them and will
rub them down at the next driving lesson or when tourque becomes sooo much that
I can do a 15 minute burnout on all four !!
I made damn good experience
with the Dunlops, SP8000 or SP9000, both are damn good. Otherwise the Firestones
SZ-50 and Bridgestone S-02 as well as the Goodyear Eagles are my first
choices.
> so I need to do something ASAP. I'm considering AVS
Intermediates or
> Sports, Pzeros are expensive... I'm also
considering going wider, traction is
> beginning to be a
problem.
Traction a problem ? Go with the right tire and you don't have
traction problems. If the front wheels (ahem do you have a VR4 or what ?) are
slipping you may check your output shaft to the transfer
case.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 04:02:14 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intermittent wipers not working right???
It was raining really
lightly today, and I noticed that no matter what I
did, the intermittent part
of the wipers could not be made faster or
slower... I would say it's
"stuck" in the "middle" of what should be a range
of
speeds.
I also had noticed before that pulling the stalk back DOES spray
washer
fluid, but does NOT turn on the wipers for a few strokes to wipe it
away. I
had always done it manually, but now I think these two things are
related.
Anyone have/had this problem? What do I need to fix it?
Thanks!
Vineet Singh
- -Service Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.org -
-Club DSM
A/T -
http://at.dsm.org -
"Never Lift To Shift!"-
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 11:16:08 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Intermittent wipers not working right???
The intermittent relay
is not switching. Look at the electrical part of the manual and you can see it.
Dunno if you need to replace it or if the contacts are just bad or
oxidated.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> I also had noticed before
that pulling the stalk back DOES spray washer
> fluid, but does NOT turn
on the wipers for a few strokes to wipe it away. I
> had always done it
manually, but now I think these two things are related.
>
> Anyone
have/had this problem? What do I need to fix it?
Thanks!
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 05:32:36 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Urgent question on tire
size...
The response is
appreciated and your opinion noted, but I'm
fairly certain that I'm going to
go as wide as possible. I see the
argument for rotating mass, but ride
quality isn't a large concern.
I've got an economy car I can drive if I want
to, but hopefully I will
soon be living within 5 miles of
work.
I love my Pzeros, but price
is more of an option now. The set
only has about 12k miles on them, but
the fronts are gone. Because it
is a VR4 I'd rather do all 4 tires at
once than risk running 4 tires of
differing circumferences and life. I
am considering the Goodyear GSCs
again, mainly because I got 40k miles out of
them.
Yes, traction is becoming an
issue. On cold pavement (I live in
Virginia) it will often break all
four tires loose from a rolling
start. I have to be EXTREMELY cautious
while applying the throttle
through turns. I've even had the rear step
out from a 30 mph rolling
start in 2nd gear, around a tight turn of
course.
Does anyone know if
275/40/17s would cause a clearance issue?
What if the car was lowered in the
future? Would 275s be too wide for
the factory 17x8.5 in rims that come
on the 94 VR4s?
thanks,
Jason
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 04:50:14 -0600
From: "Jeff" <
spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Odd tach and AC problems after VPC installation.
I've completed
installation of a VPC on my car and now some oddities have
crept up.
Now my tach dies if I turn on the high beams and it acts odd on
deceleration
(jumpy/moves sporatically) when I have the AC fan turned up
high. Also,
my AC compressor isn't kicking on anymore.
This all seems really weird to
me because as far as I know the tach,
headlights, and AC are unrelated.
Any ideas?
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:04:15 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Odd tach and AC problems after VPC installation.
Either your
battery dies, alternator isn't producing enough power or you have left a ground
connection unconnected somwhere. I'd let one check the batt first.
>
This all seems really weird to me because as far as I know the tach,
>
headlights, and AC are unrelated. Any
ideas?
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:49:35 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Urgent question on tire size...
Jason,
Thanks for writing
in a more readable format. Your earlier post was
all chopped up (i.e.
alternating long line, short line), so I didn't bother
reading it . .
.
Jason Barnhart wrote:
> Does anyone know if 275/40/17s would
cause a clearance issue?
> What if the car was lowered in the
future? Would 275s be too wide for
> the factory 17x8.5 in rims that
come on the 94 VR4s?
Here are snippets off the Starnet list written by
the invenerable
Edward Fein some time ago:
Ed Fein
wrote:
>Re: Suspension Setup
>Going to wider tires
definetely helps some. If you're going to stick with
>the stock 17"
rims, move to 255/40R17 - they still fit, give you a shorter
>sidewall
(reducing overall diameter by about 3%), and 10mm more width.
>If you
afford another set of rims, I strongly reccomend 275/40R17 tires
>(<1%
change in overall diameter). However, you will need to change the
>offset
of the wheels to keep them from rubbing on the inside. What offset
>to
get? Well, stock is 46 and rubs. I'm running 275's on 36 offset
(10mm
>further out from the car) with sufficient clearance, so I would
look for wheels
>in the 31-40mm offset range. Also, make sure the
wheels are 9 or 9.5 inches
>wide. 10" would probably work too. Also
remember that you wan to cover
>the contact patch of the original tire
with the new one, which is why I recom-
>mend 31mm offset as a minimum [46
- 31 = 15 = (275 - 245) / 2]. [snip]
>If you can afford a second set
of wheels, get BF Goodrich Comp T/A
>R1's for race use. They're DOT-legal
race tires. For street tires, I have
>Firestone Firehawk SZ-50's, and
absolutely love them, and would recom-
>mend them over anything else in
the same price range. For better, more
>expensive tires, look at the
Bridgestone Potenza S-02 Pole Position, the
>Yokohama Nexus, or the
Michelin Pilot MXX3 (none of which I have
>test driven).
>My
setup:
>Street: 275/40R17 Firestone Firehawk SZ-50 on 17"x9"
36mm offset OZ F1's
>Track: 255/40R17 BF Goodrich Comp T/A R1 on
17"x8.5" 46mm offset
>OEM '94 VR-4 wheels
>another
post of his:
>RE: 275/40/17 tires
>Yes, they fit on the
wheels, but they rub. How much they rub will vary by
>the exact tire you
use, but both Kash and Bob Fontana have been running
>275/40R17 GS-C's on
stock rims and living with the rubbing - so it is livable.
>and yet
another snippet:
>To run 275's on a 46mm wheel, you would need 8mm
spacers for an
>effective offset of 46 - 8 = 38mm. If you do this, get
10mm longer studs to
>hold the wheels on, and open-ended lugnuts. And
torque to 100 ft-lbs,
>minimum.
Hope that helps,
-
--Errin
Seattle
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 09:02:02 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Urgent question on tire size...
I think whether or not a 275
will fit depends on the tire brand. Different
brands have different
tread profiles. With that said, you will be risking a fit
problem
unless you go with a brand someone has confirmed will fit. The
most
likely clearance problem will be with the front strut's lower spring
perch.
With that said, I and several others run Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on
stock wheels with no problems (mine is a '91 VR4). I
originally had a little
rubbing on the inner plastic wheel well covering at
full turn, but really no
problem. Lowering the car actually improves
things. When I installed Eibach
Prokit springs, the lowering induces
more negative camber in the front wheels.
When you have an alignment done to
try to get the camber back to zero, you
actually pull the top of the tire
away from the lower spring perch thus giving
you even more
clearance.
IMHO, the 275's on the 17x8.5 wheels look great. The
wider tread is
noticeable. The side walls are still almost perfectly
vertical and do not bulge
out. In this size and with the Firestones
protruding bead, it will actually
protect the edge of your rim from curb
damage (if you are so prone :)).
I expect to get about 25K, maybe 30K out
of this set. This is not too bad at
all since I used to only get 30K
out of tires on my Taurus SHO Z rated tires. I
drive every day on
twisty roads aggressively to and from work, and I have had a
little track
time on these too. On my last trip to the track, I measured
an
instantaneous (note: not average) lateral G of .97 using my G-Tech
pro.
For the price, I am very happy with the performance, longevity, and
look of the
Firestones and will probably get them again.
YMMV (your
mileage may vary
:)),
Ken
> The
response is appreciated and your opinion noted, but I'm
> fairly certain
that I'm going to go as wide as possible. I see the
> argument for
rotating mass, but ride quality isn't a large concern.
> I've got an
economy car I can drive if I want to, but hopefully I will
> soon be
living within 5 miles of
work.
> I love my Pzeros,
but price is more of an option now. The set
> only has about 12k
miles on them, but the fronts are gone. Because it
> is a VR4 I'd
rather do all 4 tires at once than risk running 4 tires of
> differing
circumferences and life. I am considering the Goodyear GSCs
> again,
mainly because I got 40k miles out of
them.
> Yes, traction is
becoming an issue. On cold pavement (I live in
> Virginia) it will
often break all four tires loose from a rolling
> start. I have to
be EXTREMELY cautious while applying the throttle
> through turns.
I've even had the rear step out from a 30 mph rolling
> start in 2nd gear,
around a tight turn of
course.
> Does anyone know
if 275/40/17s would cause a clearance issue?
> What if the car was lowered
in the future? Would 275s be too wide for
> the factory 17x8.5 in
rims that come on the 94 VR4s?
- --
If you're not the lead car, your
view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 15 Mar 2000 18:02:02 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Team3S: tire rubbing on shock
Anyone know why the inner sidewall of my
left-front Michelin Pilot would start
rubbing against the shock? This
started almost a year ago and has become
progressively worse. It is
most noticeable (and extremely annoying) when making
hard right turns,
especially downhill or while decelerating (i.e.- when more
weight is placed
on that corner). I've tried rotating the tires, increasing the
air
pressure (up to 10 psi) and getting an alignment, but nothing made
a
difference.
I just chalked the tire and verified that it is in fact
the sidewall that is
rubbing (vs. a wheel weight or something else on the
wheel). My only guess is
that the sidewalls have become weak with age,
causing the tire to bulge enough
to interfere. The tires were bought
and installed in fall 1997 and have plenty
of tread left on them. Am I
looking at a new set of tires already?! $$$
TIA for any suggestions
(wheel spacers?) or ideas you might have.
-Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany (soon to be Munich, Germany!)
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N
FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),
Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
Porterfield brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16
sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #82
********************