team3s
Tuesday, March 14
2000
Volume 01 : Number
081
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:57:05 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 weight
At 01:36 PM 3/11/00 -0600, Trevor L. James
wrote:
>My car's relatively light from the factory. I weighed it a couple
weeks ago at
>the track and it weighed in at 3615 lbs with the spare,
jack, and toolkit
>in the
>car and 1/4 tank of gas. I do have
gutted pre-cats, an ATR downpipe with
>no main
>cat, and a Borla
Catback. Probably save 40lbs there. With no spare or gas
>I
can
>get it down to 3550lbs. That's without a cage though...On a side
note, does
>anyone know what the stock 18" chrome rims weigh. I was
thinking that
>might be a
>good place to loose some
poundage.
>
>Trevor
>96 R/T TT
>
12.687@108.44 w/1.924 60'
>91 Octane,
original clutch and tires, $1550 in HP mods
>92 GMC
Typhoon
=========
Hey Trevor and gang,
I weighed my 94 R/T TT
at Moroso and it weighed in at 3770lbs. with no one
in the car. That
was without the spare tire, and about 1/4 tank (maybe
just a *hair* under)
of fuel.
Not sure why our cars would weigh in so different. Mine
has the 17"
factory "Dodge" chrome wheels. I too have
the ATR downpipe, HKS cat back
exhaust, (front pre-cat eliminated, rear
pre-cat gutted) main cat gone,
(flex section in its place), Cartech
intercoolers and hard pipe kit, (this
is heavier than stock, but not THAT
much heavier).
Later
Rick
94 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 11:02:26 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Front bumper Removal
I pulled the front fascia off my 94 R/T
to install the Cartech
intercoolers. It was not fun, but I have
seen/done worse. It comes off in
one big piece. Then there is in
fact, a reinforcement behind it. I
removed it too (just to see how
much it weighed) and it seemed super light
to me. (maybe 15lbs at the
most). So I decided to leave it in there.
Hope that
helps.
Rick
Florida
At 11:49 AM 3/12/00 -0600, cody
wrote:
>Who has removed their front clip and fron bumper
reinforcement?
>
>I am planning on some awesome mods to my car that
require the removal of
>this, and I'm trying to find out exactly what I'm
in for. I need to remove
>the bumper cover and the reinforcement
behind it. Any
experiences?
>
>Thanks,
>Cody
>
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:29:03 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Injector retainign clip (urgent !!)
Wanted to install the RC 720cc tdy
and runned into a problem that the
retainer clip doesn't fit anymore. What
did you do then ?? I just don't want
to run without clip. Have you had the
same problem with any injectors or
especially the RC ones ??
THX in
advance
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 11:19:03 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RSR spring question
Quick question that I'm sure is easily
answered...
I'm installing RSR springs and I wondering how the rear
springs should be
installed. I installed them with the tighter wound
coils up. I did this
because I though that since there were more coils,
that there would be more
unsprung weight if installed the other way(small
difference I'm sure). Is
this correct??
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:30:35 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Test
Test..
Please ignore at all costs, mail server had a
hardware failure this AM, and Im
verifying the fix.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 13:21:01 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Would anyone think the rear
pads/rotors make much of a difference?
Ive come off an autox course with
not even enough heat in the rear rotors..to
steam water.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Friday, March 10, 2000 10:50 AM
To: Mohler,Anissa
Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Hi Nissa,
> As a
anniversary present I'm sending my husband to the Thunderhill
Street
School
> this April. In order to do the school we need to get
some new break pads and
> rotors for the front of my '95 VR4. Everyone
seems to be agreed that
> Porterfields are the way to go... does anyone
know of a Bay Area dealer that
we
> can get them from quickly? If not,
who is the best mail order retailer to buy
> them from?
Nice
present! Just go to
http://www.porterfieldbrakes.com.
Get the
cryogenically treated rotors. The treatment takes a few days so
the complete
turnaround time is almost a couple of weeks.
John
Christian highly recommends track pads for the track. If you do the
BBQ
treatment, they should last a few events.
Have fun,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 13:22:31 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Would anyone think the rear
pads/rotors make much of a difference?
Ive come off an autox course with
not even enough heat in the rear rotors..to
steam water.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Friday, March 10, 2000 10:50 AM
To: Mohler,Anissa
Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Hi Nissa,
> As a
anniversary present I'm sending my husband to the Thunderhill
Street
School
> this April. In order to do the school we need to get
some new break pads and
> rotors for the front of my '95 VR4. Everyone
seems to be agreed that
> Porterfields are the way to go... does anyone
know of a Bay Area dealer that
we
> can get them from quickly? If not,
who is the best mail order retailer to buy
> them from?
Nice
present! Just go to
http://www.porterfieldbrakes.com.
Get the
cryogenically treated rotors. The treatment takes a few days so
the complete
turnaround time is almost a couple of weeks.
John
Christian highly recommends track pads for the track. If you do the
BBQ
treatment, they should last a few events.
Have fun,
Ken
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 13:55:14 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Yes they make a difference, but it
may not be the difference you want.
With our front engine 2 ton (VR4)
behemoths under heavy braking with weight
transfer to the front, I can't
imagine that our rear brakes are contributing
anything more than 20-25% of
the total braking force (maybe someone has better
info/measurments/experience
though). In fact too good a rear brake would be
more prone to rear
wheel lock-up causing the ABS to engage and thus reducing the
braking force
to the front wheels.
"Mohler, Jeff" wrote:
>
>
Would anyone think the rear pads/rotors make much of a difference?
>
> Ive come off an autox course with not even enough heat in the rear
rotors..to
> steam water.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 10:50 AM
> To: Mohler,Anissa
> Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
>
> Hi Nissa,
>
> > As a anniversary present I'm sending my husband to the Thunderhill
Street
> School
> > this April. In order to do the school we need
to get some new break pads and
> > rotors for the front of my '95 VR4.
Everyone seems to be agreed that
> > Porterfields are the way to go...
does anyone know of a Bay Area dealer that
> we
> > can get them
from quickly? If not, who is the best mail order retailer to buy
> >
them from?
>
> Nice present! Just go to
http://www.porterfieldbrakes.com.
Get the
> cryogenically treated rotors. The treatment takes a few
days so the complete
> turnaround time is almost a couple of
weeks.
>
> John Christian highly recommends track pads for the
track. If you do the BBQ
> treatment, they should last a few
events.
>
> Have fun,
> Ken
- --
If you're not
the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:03:58 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
K..good.
I'll probly go with
just front rotors and R.4-S pads.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Monday, March 13, 2000 1:55 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Yes they make a difference, but
it may not be the difference you want.
With our front engine 2 ton (VR4)
behemoths under heavy braking with weight
transfer to the front, I can't
imagine that our rear brakes are contributing
anything more than 20-25% of
the total braking force (maybe someone has better
info/measurments/experience
though). In fact too good a rear brake would be
more prone to rear
wheel lock-up causing the ABS to engage and thus reducing the
braking force
to the front wheels.
"Mohler, Jeff" wrote:
>
>
Would anyone think the rear pads/rotors make much of a difference?
>
> Ive come off an autox course with not even enough heat in the rear
rotors..to
> steam water.
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
>
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 10:50 AM
> To: Mohler,Anissa
> Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
>
> Hi Nissa,
>
> > As a anniversary present I'm sending my husband to the Thunderhill
Street
> School
> > this April. In order to do the school we need
to get some new break pads and
> > rotors for the front of my '95 VR4.
Everyone seems to be agreed that
> > Porterfields are the way to go...
does anyone know of a Bay Area dealer that
> we
> > can get them
from quickly? If not, who is the best mail order retailer to
buy
> >
them from?
>
> Nice present! Just go to
http://www.porterfieldbrakes.com.
Get the
> cryogenically treated rotors. The treatment takes a few
days so the complete
> turnaround time is almost a couple of
weeks.
>
> John Christian highly recommends track pads for the
track. If you do the BBQ
> treatment, they should last a few
events.
>
> Have fun,
> Ken
- --
If you're not
the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 15:04:01 -0500
From: "Manoj Uswest" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S:
M&D phone number
Does anyone have the M&D phone number for
the transmission?
I already have Kormex's.
The search is not
working on 3si.org
I need it
bad.
Rgds
Moe
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:35:46 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
> I'll probly go with just
front rotors and R.4-S pads.
R4S is the street pad and would probably be
great for autocrossing. However, if
you plan on going to road tracks a
few times (Thunderhill, Sears Point :O), you
might want to get the R4 racing
pads and use them only for the track. They
should last a lot longer
under extreme braking conditions than street pads. You
could use stock
or another set of street pads for the street.
- -Ken
P.S.
Maybe we can meet up at Buttonwillow raceway sometime in the Spring
or
Summer. Check out
http://www.open-track.com/ and
http://www.touringcarclub.com/for
schedules.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 14:48:03 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
Great..then at thier prices I'll stay
on Hawk pads for the street..$59 works for
me...and I'll get thier racing pad
for long use only.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Monday, March 13, 2000 2:36 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfields and Wheels
> I'll probly go with just
front rotors and R.4-S pads.
R4S is the street pad and would probably be
great for autocrossing. However, if
you plan on going to road tracks a
few times (Thunderhill, Sears Point :O), you
might want to get the R4 racing
pads and use them only for the track. They
should last a lot longer
under extreme braking conditions than street pads. You
could use stock
or another set of street pads for the street.
- -Ken
P.S.
Maybe we can meet up at Buttonwillow raceway sometime in the Spring
or
Summer. Check out
http://www.open-track.com/ and
http://www.touringcarclub.com/for
schedules.
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never
changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 23:40:48 -0500
From: "Fred Richardson" <
rich@magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
re:17" Aftermarket Rims
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Fred
Richardson <
rich@magma.ca>
To:
Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 13, 2000 4:29 PM
Subject: 17" Aftermarket
Rims
> Hello
All,
> I currently have a set of
18" OEM chrome wheels. I have been
trying
> to find 17
" aftermarket rims that will clear the calipers on my '95
RT
TT.
> TSW used to make one, but they have
discontinued the model. Tire Rack
> only shows 18's for the
TT.
> I have tried the net and picked several that
I liked the looks of, but
> my speed shop tells me that none of the models
I have suggested have the
> right offset. Does anyone know any makes and
models that will do the job?
> Reply privately.
>
>
Regards,
> Fred
> #121
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 13 Mar 2000 22:38:34 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clear Taillights
Well, due to the lack thereof clear taillights for our
cars, I have decided
to set out to build them myself...
I have some
expereince working with plastics of different types, and have an
idea how I
will accomplish this, although I'm not sure what kind of plastic
is flexible
to be bent, with no chance of breaking, is clear, and is of
decent
thickness...
I know there is some plastic expert on the list that knows
exactly what I'm
looking for...
Cody
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:50:06 -0600
From: Jim Wiseman <
jim.wiseman@wcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Crankcase Oil Treatment
My '92 Stealth TT with 82k miles is in
the shop right now getting both
turbos replaced :(
The guy said both oil
feed lines were almost completely closed off with
crud, which in turn caused
the turbos to fail.
He is suggesting using a 3 step crankcase flush to
ensure the inside of the
engine is clean so that no carbon pieces flake off
later on and block the
critical oil passages in the turbos. The only
catch is that sometimes the
carbon acts as an oil seal within the engine and
when its removed via this
process the car can begin burning oil.
Has
anyone had any experience with this stuff and, more importantly, ended
up
with an oil burner afterward? Right now my car doesn't burn oil. The
mechanic
is ballparking at least an additional $800 to replace the valve
stem seals if
it does began burning oil. That would be on top of the
estimated $1600 to
install two rebuilt turbos.
Thanks for your
help,
Jim
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #81
********************