team3s
Tuesday, March 7
2000
Volume 01 : Number
075
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 00:49:51 -0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject: Team3S: blown oil
filter gasket
Hey recently after setting up my VR4 with the Apex AVCR,
Apex BOV, K&N FIPK,
stock exhaust and running 1.00 bar / self learning
duty (64 - 72%), my car
started losing oil rather quickly. It turned
out that the gasket on the oil
filter broke and all the oil leaked
out. I'd been using the AVCR sparing,
maybe for a minute at
a time every 100 miles or so. It seems the oil
pressure was just too
high with the AVCR?
I have since changed the oil and the oil filter and
everything is fine
again, but I've turned off the AVCR for now. I
thought 1.00 bar the
generally acceptable limit for a stock turbo, is there
anything else I can
do besides lowering the boost?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:34:33 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Help, idling problem.. throttle position sensor??
The problem is
definitely related to the ARC as it is very sensible for the TPS/Idle position
sensor. I will have time during the next weekend to investigate the lectronics
and I feel that the ARC is a little bit too sensitive here.
George, try
to increase the Accel a little and see if the behaviour changes. I'm pretty sure
it is only a problem when cruising aroudn and not under hard
driving.
Jeff is very right in what you should do and IMHO, SplitSecond
or Brian should fix this. I gues Brian did the install and he adjusted the TPS
(I found out myself). Both do not have a logger but Eric from SplitSec knows how
to use a DVM (and he kwows the TMO Datalogger too)
In my point of view,
doing any fuel tuning without a logging device is almost impossible to find the
proper setup. As I did the ARC installation the Datalogger it was a 120%
necessary tool like a size 3 screwdriver to me !!
Take it to Brian, and
let him drive the car (of course, Murphys Law will hit you) and let him fix the
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 11:01:21 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: blown oil filter gasket
Usually the oil filter gasket brakes when
the filter is overtorqued !
If you are going to increase boost you usally
do not increase the crankcase pressure. This only happens when you already have
a problem with your engine. Usually the oil-dipstick will pop-off at first when
the crankcase pressure is too high.
To be safe, do a compression test to
see if there are any problems with the rings/pistons and make sure the oil
filter is not overtorqued.
> Hey recently after setting up my VR4 with
the Apex AVCR, Apex BOV, K&N FIPK,
> stock exhaust and running 1.00
bar / self learning duty (64 - 72%), my car
> started losing oil rather
quickly. It turned out that the gasket on the oil
> filter broke and
all the oil leaked out. I'd been using the AVCR
sparing,
> maybe for a minute at a time every 100 miles or so. It
seems the oil
> pressure was just too high with the AVCR?
>
>
I have since changed the oil and the oil filter and everything is fine
>
again, but I've turned off the AVCR for now. I thought 1.00 bar
the
> generally acceptable limit for a stock turbo, is there anything else
I can
> do besides lowering the boost?
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:22:39 +0100
From: "RG" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotors: turn or replace?
>install my new Porterfield
pads. They use the on-car method to cut the
> rotors and quoted me
about $250 to do all four.
Yes, this IS very expensive but the problem
ist that here in Europe each dealer must give you a warranty on their work. This
means, if one is bleeding your brakes and you drive off and cause an accident
due to no brakes, they have to pay !
Now the Stealth has never been
imported officially to Europe and there is no responsibel dealership for these
cars. The garages often say that they don't do this as they don't know the car
and that they are not covered by any insurance if any problem happens. But you
know, money cures everything and for $500 they seem to do the
job.
> Installing pads and turning rotors is a very simple
job.
Absolutely ! Jim and I already did the brake lines and he know how
to change the pads.
> Find yourself another shop! Working on
Mitsu brakes is not brain surgery.
Especially, first measure the
thinkness of the rotors. Replace them if they are close to the minimum. If they
should be turned, let any brake shop (Pit-Stop or so in Germany) do the on car
or off car method. I had the on car done on the stock ones and worked very well.
We all know that this method ONLY works for plain rotors !
> like to
have a pro install new pads and bleed the brakes so I'm sure it's
> done
right.
Installing pads is one of the easiest things to do. And for
bleeden them I have the Russel Speedbleeders and bleeding the brakes is sooo
easy !
> The only time you MUST turn the rotors is if you are changing
from one
> exotic pad material to another, and may have problems with
incompatible
> embedded materials in the rotor. I had that when I changed
from Performance
> Friction to Porterfield R4s. Going from stock to
Porterfields does not pose
> that problem.
This is one reason but
also when you feel the edge of the rotor is becomming too high ! It is then time
to turn them (I have let them do this at around 48000km )
> Second, I
don't think much of this surface-rotors-on-the-car technique.
> It's so
dang easy to pull the rotors and do it right, why would anyone want
> to
try it on the car? Sounds like a way to screw you out of more money.
Ding
the job on the car is much easer because one MUST not take the rotors off. You
know, the calipers must be removed and this is a risk area !! Of course, we do
this by ourselfs but the dealer may not like to do this as he has to give a one
year warranty for his work !! Of course, my Mitsu dealer is doing this on my car
for a few bucks because Mitsu Europe is taking care of anything that would cause
a problem.
Another option is that you get the Porterfield stuff and four
speedbleeders (two sets), bring it down and we do the job on the car together
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:24:59 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bleeding the Clutch (VR4)
Does anyone know how to get to the
slave cylinder on a VR4 to bleed
the clutch? I can't even see the
thing. What has to come out to
get to it? I know the general
area it should be in, but I can't
see it.
Thanks,
-
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and
Magnecors
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 09:55:46 -0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bleeding the Clutch (VR4)
Jeff,
You will need to
remove the battery and battery tray/washer tank.
You will then have
access to the slave cylinder and bleeder screw.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff
Schwartz" <
jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
To:
"3000GT Team3:" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, March 06, 2000 9:24 AM
Subject: Team3S: Bleeding the Clutch
(VR4)
> Does anyone know how to get to the slave cylinder on a VR4
to bleed
> the clutch? I can't even see the thing. What has to
come out to
> get to it? I know the general area it should be in,
but I can't
> see it.
>
> Thanks,
>
--
> Jeff Schwartz
> 1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
> Borla,
K&N, and Magnecors
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:06:34 -0500
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How to fix clutch disengagement problem?
I don't know how to fix
your problem, but I had similar symptoms.
1994 VR-4 92K miles, replaced
Getrag, clutch, PP, TOB 1000 miles ago.
My first symptoms to replacing
the tranny were difficulty shifting into
reverse. I never tried
shutting off the engine, but I would put it in
Reverse before starting it
sometimes. With a stopped engine it was
always easier. It was
also easiest when the car was rolling slightly.
The car was new to me so I
thought it may be normal. I never had any
syncro problems. All
shifts were smooth, and steady. I had an
occasional
KaThunk.
After my first long trip, 1000 miles after initial ownership
(no
warranty), I couldn't put the car in reverse to back out of the
driveway
of my destination. It kept popping out under load. I am
very good with
cars - I checked the shift linkage (at the shifter and
tranny), the
shift weight, and I checked for fluid leaks. The mechanism
all moved
fine, it just popped out of gear under any load.
I
let it cool, and rechecked everything with no changes. I got a push
out
of the driveway, and a planned route home without needing reverse so
I could
have my usual mechanic look at it (I was 400 miles from home).
I planned on
babying it until then. Less than 15 miles later the tranny
locked up
all four wheels. Fortunately I was in a low traffic area
moving only
about 20mph. Apparently the lockup occured along the input
shaft
somewhere since I couldn't even keep the engine running when the
clutch was
out and the tranny in neutral.
Keep in mind mine has the 6speed so you
probably have different
results. As you know, the tranny can't be
repaired so just go easy on
it, and stay close to home or get AAA until you
can save enough $$ to
replace it. I am experiencing a clutch fluid leak
so I will be
following this thread closely.
>Date: Thu,
2 Mar 2000 19:38:19 -0500
>From: Lloyd Wihl <
lloyd@cae.ca>
>Subject: Team3S: How to
fix clutch disengagement problem?
>
>1993 RT TT, 79K miles, replaced
Getrag, clutch disk, pressure plate, and
>throwout bearing 19K miles
ago.
>
>I recently have developed difficulty engaging reverse
(intermittently). When
>this occurs, if I shut off the engine, it will
then slide into reverse
>effortlessly. I also occasionally have the
symptom that a few of you have
>reported - a slight thud in the drivetrain
when I go from neutral into first
>with the clutch pedal depressed. So I
suspect the clutch is not always
>disengaging fully.
>
>I
adjusted the clutch pedal height and free play to specs. This
improved
>overall shifting smoothness slightly, but did not solve the
problem. I
>looked at the slave cylinder while someone pressed the pedal,
and it seemed
>to be extending all the way. But this is an intermittent
problem, so I
>replaced the slave cylinder anyway. Upon inspection, the
old one seemed to
>have some wear at the rubber seal around the piston,
and a tiny bit of fluid
>had seeped past it. I of course bled any air out
of the fluid as part of the
>installation.
>
>After replacing
the slave cylinder, the clutch pedal feels lighter, but the
>shifting
problem is a bit worse. My dealer thinks it's a weak
pressure
>plate. I am wondering if it could be wear at the master
cylinder. Another
>mechanic suggested that if reverse is the only gear
that's difficult to
>engage, then it's probably internal to the Getrag,
and nothing to do with
>the clutch.
>
>I think my problem is
fairly common to 3S's. Before I pay for installation
>of a new pressure
plate, I'd like to know what you folks think. Is it worth
>trying to
replace the clutch master cylinder first? Has anyone done this
>already,
and did it help? Do you think that if the problem is only in
>reverse,
it's the transmission, and not the clutch? Could it be that the
>flywheel
is slightly warped, keeping a bit of contact with the clutch
disk?
>
>Thanks for any insight or experience you can
provide.
>
>Lloyd Wihl
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
-
--
Marc J. Jacobs
ADSL Hardware Development
Alcatel
USA (919) 850-6386
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:46:18 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Advancing & Retarding Timing, Compression
Vic:
Advancing the
timing does not increase compression ratio. It can increase
peak
cylinder pressure and thus increase propensity to ping/knock/detonate,
so can
be dangerous, especially in a turbo engine which already has high
_dynamic_
compression ratio. Increasing the ignition timing to point of
maximum
efficiency/power production, just BEFORE causing detonation, is
good.
Do you feel lucky :) ?
"Static compression ratio"
is the mechanically determined ratio between the
volume the air in the
cylinder contains with piston at bottom dead center,
to the volume the
cylinder contains at top dead center. For our engines,
which have a
piston swept volume of 500cc per cylinder (500cc x 6cylinders =
3.0 liters)
to get the static compression ratio of 8:1, we must have about
71.4 cc
combustion chambers or "clearance volume" (including valve
reliefs,
piston dish, gaskets, though our pistons actually are positive
decked, that
is they stick out of the deck a little! Gasket thickness makes
up adequate
piston-head clearance). So, our static compression ratio is
571.4cc /
71.4cc = 8.0:1 ratio.
"Dynamic compression ratio"
takes into account the RUNNING engine's boost
and volumetric
efficiency. Though the turbo's static compression is 8:1,
its dynamic
compression ratio is much higher. With 1 bar = 14.7 psi boost,
you
(almost) double the air volume in the cylinder, so we get 1071.4cc /
71.4cc =
15:1 compression "actual" that determines what gas octane we
need.
Now note, this is simplified. The actual volume of air can vary
based on
any ram tuning effects or lack (see our neat long runner intakes
designed to
pack more air in at low-mid rpm's) and I'm not going to get into
weenie
discussions of how much of the 71.4cc chamber volume actually fills
extra
due to boost, the density of air being less due to air filter pressure
drop
and heating by turbo compressor, improvements due to
intercooling.
Of course, NA cars are higher static compression (10:1)
than turbos
(8:1)...because NA cars have less dynamic compression and can get
away with
higher (and more efficient) static ratios therefore.
Our cars
have no distributor. We use computer drivers to signal to coils
when to
fire, based on crank/cam position sensors. Timing is effectively
not
adjustable except on 91-?92 cars, and aftermarket with Apex Ignition
Timing
Computer. Adjusting cam position would not change ignition timing.
Hope
that helps some, I think it is a mostly correct explanation.
Jack
Tertadian
"MITSU MAN!" wrote:
> about advancing &
retarding timing:
>
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/redroby/3liter/ignition.html>
says with forced induction engine you should not advance
> timing because
it increases compression. Is that the same as
> saying increasing the
compression "ratio"? & why NOT do it to a
> Turbocharged
car? I would think it would make even more compression &
> would only
help the engine achieve a higher power potential.
> 2ndly, if you
compare non-turbo 6G72 (lower
> compression, right?), & a 6G72TT
(higher compression?). why
> couldn't this simple method be used to
increase compression
> in N/A to be able to run more than the 6-7lbs of
boost it can
> without extensive costly engine modifications? 3rdly,
why does it say to
> advance the timing, you loosen distributor cap, turn
it 3
> degrees clockwise, & make sure the engine doesn't ping...
I
> thought only way to advance timing was using adjustable
>
camshaft
sprockets?
>
~vic
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 12:25:43 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Getrag Parts Sources Summary 3-2000
Dennis and Lists:
Here is latest
Getrag Summary, edited.
I got a message from Bob Forrest that you needed help
on sourcing
transaxle; I am sort of the Getrag Trans Guru (not by
choice ;) so...
Here is a compendium of information on transaxle,
transfer case, output
shaft, and seals/parts for the Stealth TT/3000GT VR4
Getrag 5 and 6
speeds.
Note, your 91 has "small output shaft"
going into the transfer case,
unless it was previously changed to the later,
large output shaft
trans/transfer case. If you are changing over, you'd
be best off
changing to the large output shaft trans and transfer case (must
do both
at once, and bolts right in).
Metric Mechanic 1-573-765-1269 will
hopefully be disassembling the trans
I've sent them and engineering
improvements in the synchronizer
assemblies sometime this year.
I hope
this helps...
Jack Tertadian
- --- MESSAGES FORWARDED BELOW
---
I ordered rebuilt transfer case from MD Auto. I was
quoted
same price ($850) as in Ken's post below. I then told him
about our list and deals with other distributors, success!
He gave me $50
off so xfer case ended up $800 + $25
shipping + $50 core charge = $875 to my
door! (note: the core charge in
the post below is incorrect, or they
made a big change to it since
then)
INFO BELOW: 6 speed
cast iron xfer case info unless noted.
MD Auto
619-390-0450, in San Diego
$ 800.00 rebuilt with 1 year
unlimited mileage warranty
(make sure you mention the list discount for this
price! $50 core!)
Tallahassee Mitsu
1-888-825-5648
$
1836.33 list , $ 1469.06 discount price
(this month only -October 99-
they are selling for $1280!!! new!)
<<<<------
Mag
Auto (Chris)
1-800-229-1001
$ 1471.00 (claimed this is
new)
Kormex
1-800-429-5464
$ 650 (5 speed), $1100 (6
speed)
M&S Recycling
1-800-695-4700
$ 900 (used, not rebuilt, 6
month warranty)
Standard Transmission
1-800-783-8726
$ 75 for
bearing and seal kit. I considered replacing the damaged
pieces
of my case which they quoted at $25 for the cover plate, and $150 for
the
section of case that bolts to the transmission.
Dave 95 VR4
-
---------------------------------------------
I called MD Auto 619-390-0450
San Diego. I spoke with Mike at
least 20 minutes, he is
friendly/helpful. MD Auto
sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions/transfer
cases and
some parts.
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt
transfer case $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt
tranny $2295
rebuilt transfer
case
$850
(refundable) core charge
$500
Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage
warranty.
Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are
replaced. Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from Europe. He will
not publicly
confirm source; is in Germany. He uses them but he
will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear his source will stop
providing
access. New bearings, shaft, transfer unit spool, and seals
are used.
There is no problem swapping a 5 for 6 speed or a small shaft 5
spd
for a large shaft. Interestingly, he said that the large shaft
splines
come back in worse shape than the small shafts. He said this is
because
the small shaft's 18 splines are wider than the large shafts 25
splines,
so the thiner 25 splines wear more. ?
Current stock is 1 6
spd and 12 5 speeds. Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old
core. He doesn't rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case,
he swaps them.
He sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8
total, better than OEM $225
Shafts, OEM
quality
$695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality $695 (double
ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case $175
He
also sells used gears & housings.
I asked about using better than
OEM quality parts. He
didn't sound too optimistic from his "small
shop" point of view.
Mike is a Corvette man who began his affiliation
with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend of his had Getrag
problems. He mentioned
that ZF tranny in Vette also have no parts
availability and
cost over $7K.
Ken Middaugh
-
--------------------
>From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep
1999
TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS / REBUILD SOURCE SUMMARY:
1)
Try Tallahassee Mitsu 1888-825-5648, say you are on 3S Internet
list
for
like 25% discount and free ship for over $50
2) Rockland Mitsu
1914-353-2100 Say internet/3SI member "Terry"
3)
Norco Mitsu
1888-689-1788 "
"
"
"Bill"
4) Lou Fusz Mitsu
1800-528-2525 "
"
"
"Greg or Marty"
6) MAG
auto
1800-229-1001 I think these are used
only?
7) Kormex Trans Parts 1800-429-5464 "Frank
Martin" Has aftermarket
hardened output shafts for trans and other
parts, do rebuilds.
8) East Street Auto 1901-774-5374
"Jim" I think they have ?stock
output
shafts for $400, not
sure here
9) Southern Gear
1770-435-1461 Trans Rebuilders in Georgia,
USA;
have done many of them, would be between them and Kormex if I had
to
have rebuild based on info I have NOW.
10) Max Mayants at
"GTR Motorsports" email
NYMaxxNY@aol.com,
gets new transaxle
bearing kits, output shaft for $430; was planning to
recoat the old/used
synchro ring with new brass (not a bad idea) though
not the only part that
wears (the gear face teeth and blocker rings also
have
teeth that wear,
but if can make new brasscoated rings that is one more
part
being
made!) I don't have phone #, if you get it write back; he
said
back in
May 99 he was opening up large shop for cars like
ours.
Jack Tertadian
> I need new transfer case;
> 1991
Stealth TT Dealer price
> $2195.00 +3.8 hours = $1463.00 =
$1653.33.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 06 Mar 2000 12:56:51 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S:
MSD Knock Alert Installation Help...
All right guys, I'm installing a MSD
Knock Alert Box and it comes with a knock
sensor with 1/4" NPT threads
that are about 7/8-1/2" in diameter. It comes with
an adapter that I
think is course metric threaded and about 5/16-3/8" in
diameter. One of
the guys on the
www.3si.org message board said
that he found a
tapped hole that the adapter fit in on the back, driver's
side of the engine. I
looked around under the car and I couldn't see anything
except a brass looking
plug that looked like it was of larger diameter than
the adapter. Anyone know of
a good place on the block to screw this thing
into?
Trevor
96 Stealth R/T TT
12.687@108.44$1550 in HP mods
92 GMC
Typhoon
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 21:31:22 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Advancing & Retarding Timing, Compression
1A rated
information ! Great :)
THX
Roger
93'3000GT TT
-
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
An: <
stealth@starnet.net>; Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Gesendet:
Montag, 6. März 2000 18:46
Betreff: Team3S: Advancing & Retarding
Timing, Compression
> Vic:
> Advancing the timing does not
increase compression ratio. It can increase
> peak cylinder pressure
and thus increase propensity
to
ping/knock/detonate,
<snip>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 22:09:26 -0500
From: Jeremy Barron <
doc2978@doctorheresy.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake and suspension overhaul imminent. Questions...LONG!!!
Hi
all. In about a month, I plan to install the following on my 94 Stealth TT;
parts listed have already been ordered or will be ordered shortly:
Eibach springs (No more RSRs in the country :( [Racing Beat stopped
importing them])
New stock struts, front and rear
Stillen
Metal Matrix pads
Porterfield Cryo Frozen front rotors
SS
brake lines
Questions: For a vehicle that will most likely never
see road race duty (a few 100+mph stops after the 1/4 mile is the most rigorous
work out the brakes will face), what type of brake fluid is
recommended?
I was disappointed to find that I will be unable to
use a Road Race rear strut bar as I have a factory sunroof (RRE says the
retaining clips that hold the sunroof in the hatch block their strut bar);
anyone know if this is true with the Cusco? Anyone with a factory sunroof using
any type of strut bar?
While this work is being done, any thoughts
on bushings (please list which ones, and does anyone know if Energy Suspension
or any other company makes a "high performance" bushing for 3/S
vehicles?) or anything else I should do, given the higher mileage (~100k), in
order to prevent having to go back in there in the near future?
Given that the car will see primarily street use, I think I am safe to pass on
the rear sway bar by (I think) Suspension Techniques, as I will not see much in
terms of improved handling on the street. Correct?
Off topic...I
recall a dealership in FL that had alarm key fobs for ~$25, which could be used
with a reprogrammed factory alarm. When I tried to obtain one a few years back,
I was unable to as the parts department there had no clue as to what the part
number was. Anyone recall the dealership, and more importantly, the part number
for the fob?
Hmmm...I think that's it ;). Any and all help will be
appreciated. Thanks and take care...
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Mar 2000 19:42:56 -0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake and suspension overhaul imminent.
Questions...LONG!!!
> I was disappointed to find that I
will be unable to use a Road Race rear strut bar as I have a
factory sunroof
(RRE says the >retaining clips that hold the sunroof in the hatch block their
strut
bar); anyone know if this is true with the Cusco? Anyone with a
>factory sunroof using any type of
strut bar?
>
I installed a
Roadrace engineering rear strut bar and I had to remove the welded
support
brackets for the sunroof clips ---- about 15 minutes per side with an
angle grinder.
If I get ambitious I might cut the support bracket down and
reweld them and reinstall the
storage clips ---- I never remove the sunroof
so I'm not sure I care.
I doubt anyone makes a strut brace that fits with
the sunroof clips in place --- the supports
are smack dab in the middle of
everything.
IMHO if you're not going to road race you can skip the brace
--- I think it made a difference
but I have no race numbers to back me up, I
may try it with and without the brace at a
track
event.
========================================================
>
While this work is being done, any thoughts on bushings (please list which ones,
and does anyone
know if Energy Suspension or >any other company makes a
"high performance" bushing for 3/S
vehicles?) or anything else I
should do, given the higher mileage> (~100k), in order to prevent
having
to go back in there in the near future?
No performance bushing
available as far as I know ---- not sure why, it seems easy to
do.
==================================================================
Jim
Berry >>>
93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
--- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
---
GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber
plate
Yokohama AVS sport
255x40x17
Porsche/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm
rotors
Roadrace engineering rear strut
tower
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Mar 2000 14:56:53 GMT
From:
pagan@siscom.netSubject: Re: Team3S:
Brake and suspension overhaul imminent. Questions...LONG!!!
Jeremy Barron
writes:
<snip>
> Off topic...I recall a dealership in
FL that had alarm key fobs for ~$25, which could be used with a reprogrammed
factory alarm. When I tried to obtain one a few years back, I was unable to as
the parts department there had no clue as to what the part number was. Anyone
recall the dealership, and more importantly, the part number for the
fob?
<snip>
Bill Seidle's Mitsubishi
2757 N.W. 36th
St.
Miami Fl. 33142
(305) 633-7722 or (305) 637-5246
Mark
W.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #75
********************