team3s
Saturday, March 4
2000
Volume 01 : Number
073
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:14:03 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Some interesting Getrag info?
Was looking for pictures on
google.com, and came up with this link... funny,
I wasn't searching for
Getrag info...
http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/moto/trans.articles.htmlSounds
interesting, dunno if it helps anyone.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Mar 2000 07:53:12 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotors: turn or replace?
I have an appointment with the local
Mitsu dealer to turn my stock rotors and
install my new Porterfield
pads. They use the on-car method to cut the rotors
and quoted me about
$250 to do all four. Seems high to me, but this is Germany,
so I'm not
too surprised as labor is particularly deadly over here. I'm
also
having them bleed the brake system, and they want another $250 for
that! Yikes.
Anyway, does it make sense to pay that much to turn
these rotors or would I be
better off putting the money towards new
rotors? I'd be interested in hearing
from anyone who has been down this
path before. Thank you!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N
FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),
Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec
@ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Mar 2000 14:36:47 +0200
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rotors: turn or replace?
I had the same problem, and after replacing
stock rotors with new Stillen
sross-drilled rotors nothing was changed. So
next week I am going to do the
turning, and will report the results to the
mailing list.
The turning here in Latvia costs $70 for all four rotors
(off-car method).
In Latvia they don't use on-car method.
Oleg
Reznik,
www.3000gt.lv>
I have an appointment with the local Mitsu dealer to turn my stock
rotors
and
> install my new Porterfield pads. They use the on-car
method to cut the
rotors
> and quoted me about $250 to do all
four. Seems high to me, but this is
Germany,
> so I'm not too
surprised as labor is particularly deadly over here. I'm
also
>
having them bleed the brake system, and they want another $250 for
that!
Yikes.
>
> Anyway, does it make sense to pay that much to
turn these rotors or would
I be
> better off putting the money towards
new rotors? I'd be interested in
hearing
> from anyone who has
been down this path before. Thank you!
>
> --
> Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews>
>
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
> Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
> Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer
(30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline
ShockProof fluids
> Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake
lines
> Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
> G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406
SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Mar 2000 14:49:57 +0200
From: "Oleg-Telia" <
Oleg@telia.lv>
Subject: Team3S:
shocks
Today I have tested my stock shocks and how do they work with ECS.
Testing
gave interesting results - when switching from "tour" mode
to "sport" mode,
front shocks become harder but rear one become
softer!
Is it normally????
Oleg Reznik
www.3000gt.lv ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Mar 2000 09:07:16 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rotors: turn or replace?
Hi
Jim,
OOOOOOOOuuuuuccchhhhh! Surely you could take the rotors off
and get a
local parts store to turn them for you. When you put them
back on you
can replace the worn pads with your Porterfields and bleed the
brakes at
that time yourself.
Even if you are not handy, you could do
the brakes yourself. Trust me,
even my computer son can now do my
Stealth.
Dug up my Mitsu invoice for front rotors part#MI MR235802 list
$100.12
net $80.10. That's $160.20 for two front rotors
(8/4/98). I'd be glad
to pick some up and ship them to
you.
You can buy new jack stands, new jacks, the few tools and torque
wrench
for a LOT less than $500. Probably even rent a temp car while
yours is
on the jack stands.
Maybe even send me an air ticket and I'll
do it free (-:)
Let me know if you need
e-assistance.
Be of good cheer
John
[snip]
Matthews
wrote:
> Mitsu dealer uses the on-car method to cut the
rotors
> and quoted me about $250 to do all four.
> having
them bleed the brake system, and they want another $250 for that!
Yikes.
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with
Porsche brakes & Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Mar 2000 09:51:51 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shocks
At 02:49 PM 3/4/00 +0200, Oleg-Telia
wrote:
>Today I have tested my stock shocks and how do they work with ECS.
Testing
>gave interesting results - when switching from "tour"
mode to "sport" mode,
>front shocks become harder but rear one
become softer!
>Is it normally????
>
It depends on how you were
testing. The ECS adjusts for everything -- hard
cornering, acceleration,
braking, anti-dive, anti-squat, and so on, and it
changes from moment to
moment. For example, if you are in "tour" mode and
drive the car
hard through a series of corners, it will automatically
change to
"sport" settings.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Mar 2000 09:41:58 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rotors: turn or replace?
At 07:53 AM 3/4/00 +0100, Matthews
wrote:
>I have an appointment with the local Mitsu dealer to turn my stock
rotors and
>install my new Porterfield pads. They use the on-car
method to cut the
rotors
>and quoted me about $250 to do all
four.
Here in the U.S., if I take the rotors off myself and take
them to my brake
shop, they turn the rotors for $5 each. Your shop is
absolutely insane,
even for Germany. Installing pads and turning rotors
is a very simple job.
>Seems high to me, but this is
Germany,
>so I'm not too surprised as labor is particularly deadly over
here. I'm also
>having them bleed the brake system, and they want
another $250 for that!
Yikes.
Wow! $250 for a 20 minute job for two
guys! It takes a max of five minutes
per wheel. Do you get kissed, too, or
just screwed?
Find yourself another shop! Working on Mitsu brakes
is not brain surgery.
What you are having done I do before every race
event. I do the labor and
get the front rotors resurfaced myself for $10
after each event, but then
take the car to the shop for new front pads and
bleeding before race day.
The labor to install new pads and bleed all four
brakes is about $35-$70. I
like to have a pro install new pads and bleed the
brakes so I'm sure it's
done right. Besides, I get to look under the
car and check stuff out.
>
>Anyway, does it make sense to pay that
much to turn these rotors or would
I be
>better off putting the money
towards new rotors? I'd be interested in
hearing
>from anyone who
has been down this path before. Thank you!
First, unless you have a
zillion miles on your car, you don't need the rear
rotors surfaced. It's easy
to check -- just run your fingertips over the
rotor surface. If it's smooth,
you don't need surfacing. Same in the front
- -- don't resurface them unless
they need it, or you have some reason to
believe the rotors are warped.
The only time you MUST turn the rotors is if you are changing from
one
exotic pad material to another, and may have problems with
incompatible
embedded materials in the rotor. I had that when I changed from
Performance
Friction to Porterfield R4s. Going from stock to Porterfields
does not pose
that problem.
Second, I don't think much of this
surface-rotors-on-the-car technique.
It's so dang easy to pull the rotors and
do it right, why would anyone want
to try it on the car? Sounds like a way to
screw you out of more money.
The Porterfield R4 pads (if that's what you
got) will cut into your rotors
a little, so you may need to get the rotors
resurfaced periodically -- say
once a year. Maybe you should learn how to do
it yourself and save yourself
zillions of dollars. I've resurfaced my
Porterfield rotors twice now, and
they are holding up just fine.
Somewhere on the web -- probably on John's Repair Service -- there must
be
a step by step procedure for doing brakes. I've seen the procedure
listed
here a few times, and I can outline if for you if necessary. Do it
yourself
and save $500!
But my best advice to you is to find another
garage where you don't have to
bend over and touch your toes.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Mar 2000 11:30:08 -0600
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
THE BEST OIL FOR THE TT MOTOR (f-up)
Nick,
I pulled the manual on
my Twin Turbo and it recommends the following:
10W-30: From -10 deg F and
Up
5W-30: From 60 deg F and down
it also says that you can use 20W-40
when the temp is 32 deg. F and up.
I always use synthetic oil and always
use Mobil 1 in my TT. Unless
you're going to be driving in excessively
cold environments, 10W-30 is a
pretty universally good weight of oil to use
for year round driving.
Greg
"Nickolaos M.
Sgouros" wrote:
>
> Roger,
> Do you have any idea what
is the recommended viscosity from the factory? I
> have heart for some
engines if you exceed some viscosity can cost problems
> because the oil
is to thick to circulate everywhere!
>
> Nikolaos M.
Sgouros
> Poseidon "X" Inc
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: R.G. [
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent:
Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:11 AM
> To: Nickolaos M. Sgouros
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: THE BEST OIL FOR THE TT MOTOR (f-up)
>
>
Nikos,
>
> For the tropics I highly recommend the Castrol RS 10W60
Racing oil. I use it
> in conjuntion with 0W40 and like it very much :)
Just make sure you use
> fully synthetic oil.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> Switzerland
>
> > Looks like
most of the TT people are using Mobil 1. What is the
> recommended
>
> viscosity from the manufacturer and do you thing 15-50 will be the
best
> for
> > the tropics?
> >
> > Nikos the
Greek
> > 92' RT TT
> > Puerto Rico
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:47:56 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh" <
billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Viper TV show, featuring 5+ Stealths!
Ok, after quite a bit of
work, I was able to "digitize" Greg Sheeley's (aka
'wizards') tape
of the Pilot Viper TV show episode.
I have Part ONE and Part TWO up on my
www site, in chunks ranging from 1mb
to one that is 40mb (highly recommended
:).
Cody is working on getting the "REALMEDIA" versions of
these file "streamed"
from his www server, so that a 56k+ user can
watch them almost as fast as
they download (that's why it's called
"streaming")
You will need either an AVI player (Quicktime can
play AVI's, as well as the
newest version of Windows Media player, links are
provided), or a Real Media
Player for your platform. I hope that there will
be no "codec" issues, but
in case you have a problem, windows media
player is recommended, as it will
try to download any needed codec to view
the video.
Everything else should be explained on the www site!
Enjoy!
If you only want to see scenes with Stealth's in them, they are
easily
indentified by their filenames. Please read the
"readme".
As this is a "technical list", I will
include the following "technical"
information :)
1:) On TV,
Dodge Stealth's automatically change to Base models when crashed,
and then
change quickly back to RT/TT models once running again.
2:) Dodge
Stealth's are MUCH faster than the poor Dodge Caravan, regardless
of trim
level. (I think that the van actually has the same engine as the
base stealth
however :)
3:) A Dodge Stealth looks eerily cool flying through the air
and hitting a
wall sideways, and then falling on it's roof. I wonder what
happened to the
TV versions of airbags on the stealth's, they don't
deploy.
4:) Five all black stealths look KICK ASS peeling around the
streets (turbo
and non-turbo), we really should have a shootout this year in
Dayton :)
Imagine what 100+ would look like :)
PS: The tape that this
episode was on is destroyed. I must have stopped and
rewound, and played the
damn thing over 100 times in 2 days, and it ripped
up the tape.
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.orgClub DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #73
********************