team3s             Thursday, March 2 2000             Volume 01 : Number 071




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:01:43 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Shootout in Dayton, Ohio!

Joe and all:

It has been dedicated to DSM's and 3S's the last few years, but with Dave
Buschur not organizing it this year, we need to put our $0.02 in and our
support to make them "remember us" and include us 3S's!

My letter to him actually bounced back, aol said no such address existed, but
it IS correct, the LAST DSM digest the guy came back and said he had over 100
messages of support; maybe his mailbox was full...I am going to resend and
call him.

Joe Gonsowski wrote:

> Damn, I'm extremely interested.  I haven't seen too many modified cars run
> the 1/4.  Us Detroit 3SI members hit the track a few times a year, but I've
> yet to see anyone run 11's.  Unfortunately, my car may be under the knife if
> its in the Spring or early Summer, but I'd go just to watch Jack and others
> if nothing else.
> I would be interested in knowing if we would be renting the track and only
> we would be at the shootout or are we going to be running with 20 other
> makes and models.  If we are renting and need people, can we invite non 3SI
> people with street cars (Vettes, Supras, F-bodies, Mustangs, etc.).  I know,
> I'm getting ahead myself.
> Looking forward to more information,
> Joe Gonsowski
> '92 R/T TT
> 12.236 @ 113.6 (118.8 best trap)


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 17:09:56 -0800
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: THE BEST OIL FOR THE TT MOTOR (f-up)

Roger,
Do you have any idea what is the recommended viscosity from the factory? I
have heart for some engines if you exceed some viscosity can cost problems
because the oil is to thick to circulate everywhere!

Nikolaos M. Sgouros
Poseidon "X" Inc

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:11 AM
To: Nickolaos M. Sgouros
Subject: Re: Team3S: THE BEST OIL FOR THE TT MOTOR (f-up)

Nikos,

For the tropics I highly recommend the Castrol RS 10W60 Racing oil. I use it
in conjuntion with 0W40 and like it very much :) Just make sure you use
fully synthetic oil.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
Switzerland

> Looks like most of the TT people are using Mobil 1. What is the
recommended
> viscosity from the manufacturer and do you thing 15-50 will be the best
for
> the tropics?
>
> Nikos the Greek
> 92' RT TT
> Puerto Rico


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 23:42:07 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: THE BEST OIL FOR THE TT MOTOR (f-up)

> Looks like most of the TT people are using Mobil 1. What is the recommended
> viscosity from the manufacturer and do you thing 15-50 will be the best for
> the tropics?

Our lash adjusters tend to click and I noticed a louder clicking with the
thinnrr oil in winter. Any car has a recommendation in the owners manual but
this is just for people who want to drive from A to B. In your case you can
easily run 5W50 Mobil 1 (I use it in the Camaro in Summer) as it was cheap and
good quality. Just look for the costs and change it every 5000 miles. Our cars
do not have any heat problems even with dyno oil or natural oil. You can even
use salad oil (good italian Olive Oil) and you may goet a nice smell from the
tailpipes, LOL. Just get a good quality oil for a good price and you're fine.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 19:46:45 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost behavior

Spikes are to be expected with boost controllers.  Your boost controller
behavior sounds completely normal for stock 9B turbos.  Stock turbos
typically will not support 15 psi to redline.

With the controller removed, however, the stock system should limit boost to
around 12.5 psi.  A true spike is literally that -- a momentary jump.  If
you are seeing any sort of sustained readng much above 12.5 psi then there
may well be a leak somewhere in your plumbing which is preventing the stock
boost control mechanism from working properly.

When it was stock, my '94 would hold 12.5 psi pretty much anywhere.  The 9
psi thing sounds like there may a problem with your stock plumbing.  I had a
similar problem when my car was stock which I eventually resolved myself by
simply replacing all plumbing and connectors.  According to two different
Mitsu dealers at the time, the boost readings were well within spec (which
they were, I just knew that they could be better since my car always pulled
12.5 psi before) and they were unable to find any problem (no surprise
there - Mistu dealers in my area suck supremely).


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I recently had a Hallman boost controller installed in my 95 VR4.  When
> having the boost set at 15 psi I would get a spike to 16psi and then it
> would settle at 15 psi eventually dropping to and holding 12 psi
> to redline.
> My car is scheduled for a tranny inspection so I removed the boost
> controller.   With the controller removed I still get boost readings
> (spike?) to 15 psi and then the boost falls off to 9 psi.  Is this normal,
> or should my boost readings just hit a steady 12 psi and then
> fall off to 9
> psi ?  The other mods are gutted cats, FIPK, and Borla exhaust.
> Should I be
> concerned?
>
> Thanks,
> Len


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 20:37:51 -0800
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: front suspension kaTHUNK!

Hello,

My front suspension of my '91 R/T TT makes this incredibly annoying
thunking noise over bumps in parking lots, etc.  It seems to be worse on
the drivers side.  It's driving me NUTS!  But first a little history of
what I suspect may be the problem.

About a year ago, I replaced the clutch.  The special suspension tool
was on back order from Miller, so in my rush to get things done I just
used a pickle fork tool to separate the ball joints.  Needless to say it
did create some tears in the boots, but I didn't replace the boots
immediately and just reassembled what I had after finishing the job.

A few months after replacing the clutch, I decided to go replace the
damaged boots (I had the special puller now).  That went smoothly, but I
seem to have either been sloppy on torquing the ball joint nuts back, or
they worked their way loose.  Because about a week after replacing the
ball joint boots, I started noticing this suspension noise.  So I
retorqued everything to spec (they were kind of loose) and hoped that
that would do the trick.  I still get the suspension noise, which is
gradually irritating me more and more!  Also, I did get new front tires
about the same time I replaced the boots, so its POSSIBLE that the new
tires (firestone firehawk) just transmit more vibration and cause more
suspension noise?  Just a stretch.

So I'm wondering if I might have damaged the ball joints either by not
tightening them up to spec and driving on them for a while, or by being
too tough with the pickle fork, or whatever.   How do you diagnose worn
or damaged ball joints?   The suspension is really just fine other than
this noise over bumps at lower speeds.

I think on the stealth that replacing the ball joints is not an option -
you have to replace the whole A-arm.  So I certainly want to rule out
other options before considering that.

Thanks,

Dave



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:15:05 CST
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: front suspension kaTHUNK!

Dave,

This sounds like a problem that many of us have experienced with our "older"
cars.  The problem is that the stablizer(sway bar) bushings(rubber) wear and
get hard with age/mileage.  When this happens the stablizer will move in its
mounts and cause a "clunk" when going over bumps.  This is an easy fix and
cheap(<$10).  You might also replace the stablizer links as long as you are
doing it as they can contribute to the "clunk" as well (<$12/link).

Now I realize that you removed the control arm and it has nothing to do with
the stablizer bar(other than the links).  Let's cross our fingers and hope
that it is just a coinsidence.  You don't want to have to replace your
b-joints, because as you know you have to replace the whole control arm!!.

NOTE for people removing Tranny:  You do NOT have to remove the tie rod ends
or ball joints when removing the tranny.  Just unbolt the control arm from
the chassis, and remove the stablizer links.  This will allow you to swing
the strut/hub/control arm far enough out to get the CV axle out of the hub!!
  No special tools needed!!  Maybe this should be added to the FAQ??

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT (Done 4 clutches on TTs)




>From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
>To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Team3S: front suspension kaTHUNK!
>Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 20:37:51 -0800
>
>
>Hello,
>
>My front suspension of my '91 R/T TT makes this incredibly annoying
>thunking noise over bumps in parking lots, etc.  It seems to be worse on
>the drivers side.  It's driving me NUTS!  But first a little history of
>what I suspect may be the problem.
>
>About a year ago, I replaced the clutch.  The special suspension tool
>was on back order from Miller, so in my rush to get things done I just
>used a pickle fork tool to separate the ball joints.  Needless to say it
>did create some tears in the boots, but I didn't replace the boots
>immediately and just reassembled what I had after finishing the job.
>
>A few months after replacing the clutch, I decided to go replace the
>damaged boots (I had the special puller now).  That went smoothly, but I
>seem to have either been sloppy on torquing the ball joint nuts back, or
>they worked their way loose.  Because about a week after replacing the
>ball joint boots, I started noticing this suspension noise.  So I
>retorqued everything to spec (they were kind of loose) and hoped that
>that would do the trick.  I still get the suspension noise, which is
>gradually irritating me more and more!  Also, I did get new front tires
>about the same time I replaced the boots, so its POSSIBLE that the new
>tires (firestone firehawk) just transmit more vibration and cause more
>suspension noise?  Just a stretch.
>
>So I'm wondering if I might have damaged the ball joints either by not
>tightening them up to spec and driving on them for a while, or by being
>too tough with the pickle fork, or whatever.   How do you diagnose worn
>or damaged ball joints?   The suspension is really just fine other than
>this noise over bumps at lower speeds.
>
>I think on the stealth that replacing the ball joints is not an option -
>you have to replace the whole A-arm.  So I certainly want to rule out
>other options before considering that.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 11:04:48 EST
From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: front suspension kaTHUNK!

Hello Mark (et. al),

   Aside from the "klunk" noise, what other handling/suspension related
effects would be noticed by bad bushings and/or links?

Thank you for your time.

Regards,
   Dennis

>Dave,
>
>This sounds like a problem that many of us have experienced with our
>"older"
>cars.  The problem is that the stablizer(sway bar) bushings(rubber) wear
>and
>get hard with age/mileage.  When this happens the stablizer will move in
>its
>mounts and cause a "clunk" when going over bumps.  This is an easy fix and
>cheap(<$10).

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:30:57 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: front suspension kaTHUNK!

Definitely replace the anti-sway bar bushings first.  They cost less than $2
each (from Norco or Tallahassee Mitsu) and are simple to replace.  Just jack up
the front, remove the front wheels, and reach in and remove 2 bolts on each
side.  It should take less than an hour to do the whole job.

If you still have clunking, see if replacing the anti-sway bar end links (less
than $20 each) helps.

Good luck,
Ken

David Margrave wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> My front suspension of my '91 R/T TT makes this incredibly annoying
> thunking noise over bumps in parking lots, etc.  It seems to be worse on
> the drivers side.  It's driving me NUTS!  But first a little history of
> what I suspect may be the problem.
>
> About a year ago, I replaced the clutch.  The special suspension tool
> was on back order from Miller, so in my rush to get things done I just
> used a pickle fork tool to separate the ball joints.  Needless to say it
> did create some tears in the boots, but I didn't replace the boots
> immediately and just reassembled what I had after finishing the job.
>
> A few months after replacing the clutch, I decided to go replace the
> damaged boots (I had the special puller now).  That went smoothly, but I
> seem to have either been sloppy on torquing the ball joint nuts back, or
> they worked their way loose.  Because about a week after replacing the
> ball joint boots, I started noticing this suspension noise.  So I
> retorqued everything to spec (they were kind of loose) and hoped that
> that would do the trick.  I still get the suspension noise, which is
> gradually irritating me more and more!  Also, I did get new front tires
> about the same time I replaced the boots, so its POSSIBLE that the new
> tires (firestone firehawk) just transmit more vibration and cause more
> suspension noise?  Just a stretch.
>
> So I'm wondering if I might have damaged the ball joints either by not
> tightening them up to spec and driving on them for a while, or by being
> too tough with the pickle fork, or whatever.   How do you diagnose worn
> or damaged ball joints?   The suspension is really just fine other than
> this noise over bumps at lower speeds.
>
> I think on the stealth that replacing the ball joints is not an option -
> you have to replace the whole A-arm.  So I certainly want to rule out
> other options before considering that.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #71
********************