team3s
Saturday, February 26
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
067
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 10:19:57 -0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: who does your AWD alignment?
Hi All,
Who do you
trust to do an AWD alignment on your
VR4?
Thanks,
John
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 13:07:30 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: who does your AWD alignment?
At 10:19 AM 2/25/00 -0800, Dr.
John A. Tabler wrote:
> Who do you trust to do an AWD
alignment on your VR4?
Denny's Muffler shop(west side location) in Cedar
Rapids, Iowa.
They did a 4-wheel alignment after they lowered the car 1.5
in. with the GC
kit.
They also do my brakes.
I trust them implicitly,
they do a good job, and are reasonably priced.
They let me watch,
too.
Rich/old poop
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 11:19:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flow maps 15G and 18T
Mikael,
Awesome! The 18Ts are
clearly superior. I superimposed RPM lines
and noticed the
following.
For the 18T, the sweet spot (77+%) extends basically from
5000
to 7000 RPM with PRs of 1.7 to 2.5. Even better is the fact that
the
sweet spot is elongated roughly parallel to the RPM
lines.
Perfect!
For the 15G, the sweet spot (only 75-76+%) cuts
through the RPM
lines at an angle and covers about 4500-6000 RPM from 1.5 to
2.1
PR. The 18T may help to reduce the torque fall-off (and
corresponding
decrease in volumetric efficiency) we see in the
dyno curves after about 5000
RPM.
It looks like the practical limit for the 15G is about 424
cfm
(0.2 m3/s) and is about 470 or so (.222 m3/s) for the 18T. I
would
guess the 15G is good for 500-550 HP and the 18T for
550-600 HP (at sea
level). But the HP delivery would be sooooo
much better and sooner with the
18T.
Thanks for this info!
Jeff Lucius
Red 1992 Stealth TT -
modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mikael Åkesson
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: Team3S list
<
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, February 24, 2000 9:12 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flow maps 15G and
18T
Hi,
There have been allot of talk on this list regarding how
much a
15G turbo flows etc.
I have now published a flow map for 15G
turbos on my hompage
http://www.3000gt.nu,
(look under "performance" and then
"compressor")
I
have also posted flow maps for the 18T tubos that I will use
on my
car.
So what do you guys think, will 18T be better than
15G??
/Mikael
Akesson
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 13:46:29 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Trany Question
Thats because Mitsubishi didnt build it.
Getrag built it...and they want to see
entire trannies for RCA analysis and
rebuilds.
If I were the vendor, Id do the same thing.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Nickolaos M. Sgouros [
mailto:atenag@coqui.net]
Sent: Friday,
February 25, 2000 1:22 PM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Trany
Question
Friends Hi:
Did someone can give me the answer why the
dealers they don't sale parts for
our transmissions? I have a friend that he
found a Stealth 93 TT in a very
attractive price, only has one problem. The
synchronizer of the 3rd gear is
not well. We tried then to ask for parts and
they told us that the US dealer
is not having any trany parts for sale!!! For
$100-$200 part to replace the
complete transmission? Did someone have any
information or someone knows
what is the brand of it so I can contact
directly the manufacturer?
Thank all of you
Nikos the Greek
92' RT
TT
Puerto Rico
***Info:
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***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 20:12:01 -0600
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Trany Question
Nikos:
The short story:
No, there are no parts
available new for the transaxle on TT cars.
It is made by Getrag, that is the
policy that Mitsu and Getrag agreed
to and I've been trying to get parts for
years. Occasionally I got some
"backdoor" but now Getrag no
longer builds them anymore, and sold the "official"
rebuild
business to CRS company.
I am trying to get a company called Metric
Mechanic to rebuild and
IMPROVE our trans's; I sent them one 5 speed already
to tear apart
and science out how to fix and improve the synchros, like
Metric Mech
already does for BMW Getrags. They are confident they can
much
improve the 3-4 and 5-R or 5-6 synchros; but have to dig into the
trans
to see how to do the 1-2.
Jack Tertadian
Getrag Fix
Warrior :)
"Nickolaos M. Sgouros"
wrote:
> Friends Hi:
> Did someone can give me the answer why
the dealers they don't sale parts for
> our transmissions? I have a friend
that he found a Stealth 93 TT in a very
> attractive price, only has one
problem. The synchronizer of the 3rd gear is
> not well. We tried then to
ask for parts and they told us that the US dealer
> is not having any
trany parts for sale!!! For $100-$200 part to replace the
> complete
transmission? Did someone have any information or someone knows
> what is
the brand of it so I can contact directly the manufacturer?
> Thank all of
you
> Nikos the Greek 92' RT TT
> Puerto
Rico
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Feb 2000 00:29:32 -0500
From: "Gregory McIntyre" <
greg@infinet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ECS/struts
Greets Team3S -
I have a '93 GT SL with the ECS. While
it was up on the rack for some brake
work, I noticed some oil/fluid coming
from the strut. I have also noticed
some "loose" noises from the
rear end on bumpy roads, so it looks like I
need to do some work. Here are my
questions:
Could someone explain how the ECS system works? I know the end
result of a
stiffer ride and better handling, but how is this
accomplished?
What alternatives are there to stock replacements for the
struts? Can the
stock struts be rebuilt and/or adjusted (like the Konis on my
old BMW) or
must they be replaced? What are the aftermarket alternatives, and
the
tradeoffs for using them?
What are the typical "wear
points" on the suspension that should be
checked/replaced while it's
apart?
It all comes down to the almighty dollar. What are the typical
costs?
Can someone recommend a good suspension mechanic in the
Cincinnnati/Dayton
Ohio area?
Thanks in advance for your
responses!
- -- Greg
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Feb 2000 04:05:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECS/struts
Greg,
I can help out with the "how
does the ECS work?" question. I've
pulled this right from section 2B in
the service manual.
The ECS works by adjusting the dampening force in the
shock
absorbers in response to certain sensor inputs. This means BOTH
the
expansion and contraction of the shock. The ECS control unit
is located
behind the right trunk cover. There are two settings
- - Tour (soft dampening
force) and Sport (hard dampening force).
The ECS controls anti-dive,
anti-roll, anti-squat, bouncing, and
pitching and is speed sensitive. Input
sensors include: engine
control unit and throttle position sensor, G sensor
(under
driver's seat), steering wheel angular velocity sensor,
vehicle
speed sensor, and stop light switch. The dampening
force
changeover actuator is built into the shock absorber and is
the
"non-disassembly type" (according to the manual). There
are
actually THREE dampening positions (soft, medium, and hard) for
BOTH
contraction and expansion of the shock. So there could be 9
different
combinations of settings for EACH shock in response to
input from the
sensors. If the G sensor fails then pitching and
bouncing control stops. If
steering angular velocity sensor
fails then ant-roll control stops. If the
vehicle speed sensor
fails then anti-roll, anti-dive, anti-squat, and
high-speed
controls stop and the dampening force is locked into the
medium
position. If any changeover actuator fails then all ECS
controls
stop and the dampening force is locked into the hard position.
No
fail-safe mode is listed for stop-light switch failure.
I guess that's
the long answer to that question. As for your
other questions, searching the
3SI message board will probably
help. Popular spring replacements are made by
Ground Control,
Eibach, Intrax, and RSR. Struts/shocks are made by Tein,
HKS,
GAB, and others. The Tein spring/shock system will offer the
most
variety for ride height and dampening adjustment and run
you close to $2000.
Spring sets can be less than $200 and shock
sets can be purchased in the
$300-400 range I think. You can do
the replacement yourself if you have a
spring compressor and a
reasonable set of tools. I still use the stock
suspension
system.
Hope that helps some,
Jeff Lucius
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Gregory McIntyre <
greg@infinet.com>
To: Team3S <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Friday, February 25, 2000 11:29 PM
Subject: Team3S:
ECS/struts
Greets Team3S -
I have a '93 GT SL with the ECS.
While it was up on the rack for
some brake work, I noticed some oil/fluid
coming from the strut.
I have also noticed some "loose" noises from
the rear end on
bumpy roads, so it looks like I need to do some work. Here
are
my questions:
Could someone explain how the ECS system works? I
know the end
result of a stiffer ride and better handling, but how is
this
accomplished?
What alternatives are there to stock replacements
for the
struts? Can the stock struts be rebuilt and/or adjusted (like
the
Konis on my old BMW) or must they be replaced? What are the
aftermarket
alternatives, and the tradeoffs for using them?
What are the typical
"wear points" on the suspension that should
be checked/replaced
while it's apart?
It all comes down to the almighty dollar. What are the
typical
costs?
Can someone recommend a good suspension mechanic in
the
Cincinnnati/Dayton Ohio area?
Thanks in advance for your
responses!
- --
Greg
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Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Feb 2000 08:37:05 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: 60K
Service
You can do the timing belt change if you have above average
mechanical
skills, the special timing belt tensioner tool, a good set of
calipers (the
measuring device) and a lot of patience. It is not the
most difficult
project, but it takes intense concentration to do it
right. And it is
essential to do it right the first time because with
our interference
engines, you don't get a second chance. You can't so
much worry about how
much time it is going to take. It can take you an
hour or so just to
properly tension the belt. There are very detailed
threads on this subject.
You should check recent ones as well as the
archives. If you need any other
help, you can e-mail me privately and
I will be glad to help you through the
steps.
You
should replace the tensioner and water pump while you're in there.
And
take EXTREME care when you replace the water pump. It's aluminum, as is
the part of the engine that it screws into. SO stripping/cross
threading the
threads is VERY EASY to do.
Because
it is so important, I would like to repeat that the most
important part of
doing the timing belt change yourself is PATIENCE. You
can't rush the
job and have a successful result.
Joe 91 TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Feb 2000 08:40:03 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
restoring/modifying question
That's a tough question without knowing the
history of the engine.
Joe 91TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Feb 2000 12:44:10 -0800
From: "Gula, James S" <
gulajs@jmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ECS/struts
On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 04:05:25 -0800 (PST) Jeff Lucius
<
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Greg,
>
> I can help out with the "how does
the ECS work?" question. I've
> pulled this right from section 2B in
the service manual.
>
> The ECS works by adjusting the dampening
force in the shock
> absorbers in response to certain sensor inputs. This
means BOTH
> the expansion and contraction of the shock. The ECS control
unit
> is located behind the right trunk cover. There are two
settings
> - Tour (soft dampening force) and Sport (hard dampening
force).
Minor correction here... there are 3 settings.. Hard, medium, and
soft... in sport mode the setting is medium, until you accelerate
hard,
brake hard, or turn hard (basically anything to cause the car to tilt
in any direction) and then the system is put into the hard mode.
-
--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 25 Feb 2000 10:33:22 +0100
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing the MAS
restriction
Hi...
I'm not sure if you speak from
experience....but..
Even if I have _NO_ first hand experience doing
_THAT_ in a 3 S, I seriously
considered doing in
in my Z32 TT (VG30dett
engine)....here are the problems...
>>1- Buy a broken MAS (to save
on cost)
Easy
>>2- Modify plumbing to use two MAS, one for
each turbo, locations are not
>>critical, just keep restrictions
similar, and assure good access to cool,
>>fresh air.
Not easy,
but can be done
>>3- Modify (have someone do it) the ECU EPROOM to
utilize 2x MAS values
AARRGGHHH...
Btw here....you basically would
like to install a NON_WORKING second MAS in
a parralel tubing...right
?
This is EXACTLY the setup I have in my Z32....with TWO parralel
FIPK.
First of all, AFAIK, the 3S ecu has NO EPROM....you got to use a
doughter
board, or re-programm the mask
INSIDE the
processor.
Second,(I'm 100 sure about the Z32 here....but not absolutely
sure about the
3s) the MAS response is NOT linear...i.e. _twice_ the air flow
will NOT give
a reading _twice_ as much.
To simplify, MAS are NOT linear
devices. So...it's NOT possible to ADD the
electrical values, or even to go
in the Ecu code to double the read
value....it's a LOT more complex.
I
know that the Z32 MAF is using a heated element to measure the air flow,
and
that the 3S uses ultrasound.
Now, the big "IF's"
IF the
3S MAF _is_ linear
AND
IF the reading of the MAF is a direct function of
the voltage (i.e. not a
FREQUENCY)
THEN (can you guess that I have a
little programming background.....)
adding a $3 electronic board between
the MAF and the ECU will solve the
problem..
FI
>>4-
Bingo, air flow from 2 MAS would be more than adequate for
700HP
Well.....a lot more.....One MAF is good enough for 450
HP....
>>The only limitation of this system is that it assumes both
halves of the
>>engine are reasonably symmetric in parameters,
therefore your fuel
delivery
>>is optimized based on air delivery
feedback from one side only.
True....
Another point of
view.....
I'm actually NOT sure that the MAF is the power bottleneck in this
car...
I'd say...upgrade the fuel delivery system
first.
Henri
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #67
********************