team3s
Thursday, February 24
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
065
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:51:47 -0800
From: "3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MAF unit question
Hello everyone....
Hope my font and
other settings is correct...Bob? Darcy? Chris? :)
As all of you know, I
stupidly punched out my MAF unit's honeycombs
about a year ago. Problems with
the idle began to arise and there was
a thread about the honeycombs being the
cause of it.
I just ordered the new MAF unit (finally) from
msrecycling.com and
gave them the serial code off my current MAF unit. It was
something
like this: E5T05072. The person Jose who sold it to me called me
back
later during the day and told me that the serial no. I gave ended
with
a 2 and the MAF's they have end with a 1. He explained that the
2
means Federal emissions control whilst the 1 means California
state
emissions control.
I went ahead and still bought the MAF knowing
that California has
stricter emissions control. My question is: Will this new
MAF scramble
anything on my ECU? Will it cause my car to run slower? Or will
it
have no effect on my car?
As it is, my car is running real rich;
tell tale signs are like fouled
plugs and the cyberdine I have (though it is
not that accurate). My
mechanic told me that the California MAF might run
leaner. Will this
help achieve somekind of equilibrium in my car's running
ability?
Since I am running rich, will this new MAF instead help me run
leaner?
When I receive this new MAF, I intend to pull the green fuse to
reset
the car and wait maybe a day before starting it up. I hope this
will
solve my idle problems once and for all.
Please let me know if
obtaining the California MAF unit is a good
idea. I don't want to destroy
anything on my baby!! :))
Comments appreciated!!
Thanks
all!
Regards,
Julian Ng
94 Pearl White Veilside Tein type HA
GTO
Seattle, Washington
gtovr4@postalzone.com***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:35:40 -0800
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
MAF unit question
There should be no differences at all for a MAF from
any of the 50 states
for a same-year car.
No issues.
3000gtvr4
wrote:
> Hello everyone....
>
> Hope my font and other
settings is correct...Bob? Darcy? Chris? :)
>
> As all of you know,
I stupidly punched out my MAF unit's honeycombs
> about a year ago.
Problems with the idle began to arise and there was
> a thread about the
honeycombs being the cause of it.
>
> I just ordered the new MAF
unit (finally) from msrecycling.com and
> gave them the serial code off my
current MAF unit. It was something
> like this: E5T05072. The person Jose
who sold it to me called me back
> later during the day and told me that
the serial no. I gave ended with
> a 2 and the MAF's they have end with a
1. He explained that the 2
> means Federal emissions control whilst the 1
means California state
> emissions control.
>
> I went ahead
and still bought the MAF knowing that California has
> stricter emissions
control. My question is: Will this new MAF scramble
> anything on my ECU?
Will it cause my car to run slower? Or will it
> have no effect on my
car?
>
> As it is, my car is running real rich; tell tale signs are
like fouled
> plugs and the cyberdine I have (though it is not that
accurate). My
> mechanic told me that the California MAF might run leaner.
Will this
> help achieve somekind of equilibrium in my car's running
ability?
> Since I am running rich, will this new MAF instead help me run
leaner?
>
> When I receive this new MAF, I intend to pull the green
fuse to reset
> the car and wait maybe a day before starting it up. I hope
this will
> solve my idle problems once and for all.
>
>
Please let me know if obtaining the California MAF unit is a good
> idea.
I don't want to destroy anything on my baby!! :))
>
> Comments
appreciated!!
>
> Thanks all!
>
>
Regards,
>
> Julian Ng
> 94 Pearl White Veilside Tein type HA
GTO
> Seattle, Washington
>
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:23:29 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: MAF unit question
- -----Original Message-----From: Geoff Mohler
<
gemohler@tgn.net>
>There
should be no differences at all for a MAF from any of the 50 states
>for a
same-year car.
>
>No issues.
>
>3000gtvr4 wrote:
-
-------snip-------
>> stricter emissions control. My question is: Will
this new MAF scramble
>> anything on my ECU? Will it cause my car to
run slower? Or will it
>> have no effect on my car?
Hey,
Julian,
Additionally, even IF there were differences (there aren't), the
ECU would
be on a 'learn' cycle and would adapt to the changes. As long
as you
disconnect the neg on your battery when you do the install, the ECU
will
adjust to any changes made. The jury's out on how long it must
be
disconnected (somewhere between 2 minutes and 30 minutes) and how long
it
will take to re-learn the new parameters (somewhere between 50 miles
and
150 miles)... But it WILL adapt to the new ECU perfectly. No
worries...
Best,
F
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 07:43:58 -0500
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
MAF unit question
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"3000gtvr4" <
gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To:
"Team 3000gt Stealth" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 23, 2000 12:51 AM
Subject: Team3S: MAF unit
question
> Hello everyone....
>
> Hope my font and
other settings is correct...Bob? Darcy? Chris? :)
>
> As all of you
know, I stupidly punched out my MAF unit's honeycombs
> about a year ago.
Problems with the idle began to arise and there was
> a thread about the
honeycombs being the cause of it.
You can use some 1/8th inch hardware
cloth and it will smooth out the idle.
cut it to fit where the honeycombs
were, and screw it in place with the
screws that originally held in the black
plastic hold down. I have done it
and i'm pleased with the
results.
Matt
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 09:18:23 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Eliminating
stock coil packs?
Although I've already purchased the MSD-DIS4 along with
the adapters...
Has anyone been able to eliminate the stock coil
packs?
Accel makes a high output ignition & I here GM also make a DIS
type.
If any of this is usable we may be able to eliminate the stock coil
units. I'm
going to follow this up but I'm curious if anyone has succeeded in
this area?
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:50:26 -0500
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: UPDATE: RE: Team3S: AWD transmission bump sound.
Kevin....Did
Mitsubishi replace the tranny based solely on the fact that it
made the
THUDDING sound? Mine does that too and my powertrain warranty
expires
in 1500 more miles. I would like to get a replacement tranny if
they
will do it based on these symptoms.
Mark '96
VR-4
>
>
> I got my car back today after Getrag
replacement, new clutch, and new
> transfer case -- there is NO THUDDING
anymore. I do not feel the
> thud when
> shifting into ANY
gear now... Hope this helps.
>
> -Kevin fanciulli
> '92
Stealth RT/TT
> 3Si #0375
>
>
>
> Add my '92 RT/TT
to the list of those that make this noise. I feel a thud
> when the
clutch is all the way in and I put it from neutral to
> 1st. I
have
> tried the clutch lengthening, messed around with it for hours
and
> it seemed
> to do basically nothing. :)
>
> I'm
having my transmission replaced right now, we'll see if it
> still does
it
> w/ a new one.
>
> -kevin fanciulli
> '92 Stealth
RT/TT
> 3Si #0375
>
>
>
> >
>
>
> > > The bumb seems to be comming from under the car but the
shifter itself
> is
> > > smooth.
> >
> >Do
you feel this "bump" when shifting from neutral to 1st?
If
> so, then one
> >possibility is the clutch is not completely
disengaging when you push the
> >pedal
> >to the floor.
If this is the case, you need to adjust
> (lengthen) the bolt
>
>that
> >goes from the clutch pedal to the clutch vacuum
booster. Note, "a little
> >adjustment goes a long
way", move in 1/2 or 1/4 turn increments.
>
>
> I have
driven about 5 different R/T turbos. (from 91 to 95) *Every single
>
one* I have driven has done *exactly* what you just mentioned Ken.
When
> shifting from neutral into 1st you can hear/feel a "thud"
noise.
> (for lack
> of a better description). I always
wondered what that was!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
> 94
R/T turbo
> <mine still does that "thud" from time to
time...>
>
>
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:01:11 -0600
From: "Mike Rappe" <
mrappe@flash.net>
Subject: Re:
UPDATE: RE: Team3S: AWD transmission bump sound.
I believe This is
the thread that I started a while back. It would be nice
to see a poll and
how many of the AWD's do this and how many miles
are on the trans etc.
Mine does not do this every time but alot of the time
it does even with the
clutch completely in. I have noticed that if I shift
more
slowly, it
happens less.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Elkin <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
To:
Team 3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; Kevin
Fanciulli
<
StealthTwinTurbo@bigfoot.com>
Date:
Wednesday, February 23, 2000 9:51 AM
Subject: RE: UPDATE: RE: Team3S: AWD
transmission bump sound.
>Kevin....Did Mitsubishi replace the
tranny based solely on the fact that it
>made the THUDDING sound?
Mine does that too and my powertrain warranty
>expires in 1500 more
miles. I would like to get a replacement tranny if
>they will do it
based on these symptoms.
>
>Mark '96
VR-4
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 13:10:43 -0600
From:
sjc0u812@juno.comSubject: Team3S: 60K
Service
Hello to all:
I am near 120K and a friend of mine is near
60K, we are wondering how
hard it is to do the timing belt change over.
I've read a few posts
where it can be done in 6-8 hours, but have heard the
biggest problem is
keeping the cams from spinning whence changing the
belt, Whilest in
there, we would change all sorts of other goodies
also. Please advise if
you've done this service and just how tough it
might be for weekend
mechanics.
Thank
you,
SJ
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***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 23:33:25 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60K Service
On the Team3S homepage there is a great
"article" regarding the 60K service,
you will find everything you
need there.
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/60k.htmGood
luck,
/Mikael Akesson, Team3S Admin.
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Hello to
all:
I am near 120K and a friend of mine is near 60K, we are wondering
how
hard it is to do the timing belt change over. I've read a few
posts
where it can be done in 6-8 hours, but have heard the biggest problem
is
keeping the cams from spinning whence changing the belt, Whilest
in
there, we would change all sorts of other goodies also. Please
advise if
you've done this service and just how tough it might be for
weekend
mechanics.
Thank you,
SJ
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:04:58 -0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Fw:
UPDATE: RE: Team3S: AWD transmission bump sound.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Sam Shelat <
sshelat@erols.com>
To: Mike Rappe
<
mrappe@flash.net>
Date:
Wednesday, February 23, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: UPDATE: RE: Team3S: AWD
transmission bump sound.
>My 95 VR-4 does this. I could be
at a light and when I put the clutch down
>and put it into gear, it makes
a thud in the back w/o having let off the
>clutch. My tranny was
replaced 25,000 miles ago for a leaking transfer
>case. It is
leaking again and will be brought back to be replaced along
>with a leaky
steering box. I hate to say it, but this car leaks as much as
>my
old 94 Transam and I used to beat the pants off that animal.
>
>Sam
95 vr4
>
>
>
>>I believe This is the thread that I
started a while back. It would be nice
>>to see a poll and how many of
the AWD's do this and how many miles
>>are on the trans etc. Mine
does not do this every time but alot of the
>time
>>it does even
with the clutch completely in. I have noticed that if I
shift
>>more
>>slowly, it happens
less.
>>
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: Mark Elkin <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
>>To:
Team 3S <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>; Kevin
Fanciulli
>><
StealthTwinTurbo@bigfoot.com>
>>Date:
Wednesday, February 23, 2000 9:51 AM
>>Subject: RE: UPDATE: RE: Team3S:
AWD transmission bump sound.
>>
>>
>>>Kevin....Did
Mitsubishi replace the tranny based solely on the fact
that
>it
>>>made the THUDDING sound? Mine does that too
and my powertrain warranty
>>>expires in 1500 more miles. I
would like to get a replacement tranny if
>>>they will do it based
on these symptoms.
>>>
>>>Mark '96
VR-4
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:00:27 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Opening up Headlights
Curt Gendron wrote:
> Hey
Errin,
>
> I took one of my headlights (94+) out last fall and took
the little metal
> clips off. It looks like they are sealed together
with glue or sealant. I
> wasn't brave enough to go any
farther. I also couldn't find anything in the
> manuals about taking
them apart. It wasn't in the mechanical or electrical
>
manuals.
That's odd that the glossary in my service manual says
lists
headlights as being in section 54-103-II. Since there is
no
section 54 in my service manual, I had assumed that it would
be in the
electrical manual (as indicated by the II?).
> If you get brave enough
to open them, let me know. ;) I know the
> dealer only sells the
whole assembly.
I have a feeling that the seal for the headlight assembly
is
non-reusable, and this seal is not available for sale by itself
(of
course).
Somebody was recently saying on Starnet that '95 and
up
3000GT's are less prone to condensation problems in
the headlight
assembly.
- --Errin
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:03:02 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MAF unit question
3000gtvr4 wrote:
> I just ordered
the new MAF unit (finally) from msrecycling.com and
> gave them the serial
code off my current MAF unit. It was something
> like this: E5T05072. The
person Jose who sold it to me called me back
> later during the day and
told me that the serial no. I gave ended with
> a 2 and the MAF's they
have end with a 1. He explained that the 2
> means Federal emissions
control whilst the 1 means California state
> emissions
control.
This is strange because although my car is
California
emissions (I know this from my VIN and extra 02
sensors), the
final number on my MAF code is 2, not 1.
Maybe the 1 code doesn't arise
until '95 when the
cars actually had OBDII fully implemented.
-
--Errin
Seattle
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Feb 2000 21:34:41 -0800
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <
murat@dellnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
removing the MAS restriction
This is a trick that works without any
degredation of reliability,
drivability and emissions.
1- Buy a broken
MAS (to save on cost)
2- Modify plumbing to use two MAS, one for each turbo,
locations are not
critical, just keep restrictions similar, and assure good
access to cool,
fresh air.
3- Modify (have someone do it) the ECU EPROOM
to utilize 2x MAS values
4- Bingo, air flow from 2 MAS would be more than
adequate for 700HP, and
keeping the original MAS will keep stock fuel map and
correction factors
(cold engione, idle, A/C on, etc)
The only
limitation of this system is that it assumes both halves of the
engine are
reasonably symmetric in parameters, therefore your fuel delivery
is optimized
based on air delivery feedback from one side only.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:12:32 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Flow maps 15G and 18T
Hi,
There have been allot of talk on this
list regarding how much a 15G turbo
flows etc.
I have now published a
flow map for 15G turbos on my hompage
http://www.3000gt.nu, (look under
"performance" and then "compressor")
I have also
posted flow maps for the 18T tubos that I will use on my car.
So what do
you guys think, will 18T be better than 15G??
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #65
********************