team3s
Thursday, February 17
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
060
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:48:20 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
> so besides wasting gas
and rough idling to adjust for, are
> there any more caveats of having a
BOV? i'm quite certain
> it's helping me hold boost better and
besides the cool sound,
> faster spoolup between shifts (supposed to save
up to 0.5sec
> in 1/4mile), preserving turbo life, but is there
anything
> else it helps with?
Most of these things are also done
by the stock compressor bypass valve, other than the two negative side-effects
you mentioned. The stock valve should keep the turbos spooled up pretty
well between shifts. I don't really notice any lag, but I shift pretty
quickly. If you want to keep the turbos spooled up the most, try not
closing the throttle during shifts. You can let off some, but don't be
agressive about letting off like you would during a typical shift. If you
can keep the engine consuming the air the turbos are shoving through, then the
blowoff valve won't have to do its work, the turbos won't have to spool up as
much to get back to full boost, and you won't get the stumbling effect of the
aftermarket blowoff valve.
> is an aftermarket exhaust essential to
get the BOV to work
> correctly? can the BOV be adjusted to work
correct with just
> a K&N FIPK, AVC-R and stock exhaust? do i
need to tweak my
> spark plugs at all? i'm running 1.0 BAR and self
learning
> duty cycle (ranges from 64 - 74%)
Exhaust won't change
how the blowoff valve works as all the things which affect it are on the intake
side. Spark plugs should be gapped down to the .032-.034 range (although
there are varying opinions on the correct gap - but a lesser gap than stock is
beneficial when cranking up the boost on these cars).
> i heard that
the blitz BOV works in conjunction with the
> stock to avoid the rough
idle problem?
Yes, it does. I was having various problems with mine
though, so I reverted back to the stock setup and will probably get the Buschur
1G DSM CBV kit for my car this spring. Anyone want to buy my Blitz
"Super Sound" BOV?
It seems like there are two choices to go
with for blowoff valves... You can get one of the aftermarket blowoff
valves which vent into the atmosphere and live with probable idling problems
and/or stalling on deceleration. The benefit is that you get a more
agressive blowoff sound and possibly quicker spooling of the turbos during
shifts (although I would argue that the messed up fuel ratios the BOV causes
would negate any gains you could potentially get here).
The other route
is to replace the stock compressor bypass valve with one of similar design that
you can route back into the intake stream after the airflow sensor. The
plus is that it doesn't interfere with the engine management systems and you
retain stock drivability. The downside is that it won't make any more or
different noise than the stock setup (other than getting rid of the
"honking goose" problem for some people).
Decide what things
are most important to you and choose the product to go with armed with that
decision. I personally want stock drivability with higher boost capacity,
so I'm going with an upgraded version of the stock setup (1G DSM CBV). My
car is also prone to the honking goose syndrome, so I'm hoping to eliminate that
as well in the process.
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 11:13:45 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Moving the MAS... Questions...
- -----Original
Message-----From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
-
-------snip-------
>> Personally it doesnt matter _much_ where you put
it, but I would tend to
>guess
>> that flow/temp/density
differences between fresh air, and
>> compressed/boosted/accelerated
air masses _could_ cause a significant
>change in
>> how things
work..probly make the car feel like it's carburreted..and the
-
-------snip-------
>Well, it depends if a system measures air mass or air
flow and how
sensible
>it acts. I'd never ever put a MAS or MAF AFTER a
turbo. The readings
>(especially the temp) would be totally wrong as you
explained. But this is
>not a problem with something like an eRam or
whatever that only produces a
>little amount of more air.
My
main concern, with such a setup, is on a non-turbo the eRAM provides a
LOT
more air, and the most logical place to put the MAS is *right* after
the
eRAM, toward the TB. I'm just wondering if the reading will
be
misleading in that spot, rather than down the path a bit. Wouldn't
reading
the full intensity of the forced airstream result in more fuel being
dumped
in than will be required? If a tube followed the eRAM, and the
MAS were
put right before the throttle body it seems like the intensity would
have
dropped off somewhat and would provide a more accurate
reading.(?) (Yes
I'll insulate it from engine
heat...).
TIA,
Forrest
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 13:20:39 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Moving the MAS... Questions...
> My main concern, with
such a setup, is on a non-turbo the
> eRAM provides a LOT more air, and
the most logical place to
> put the MAS is *right* after the eRAM, toward
the TB. I'm
> just wondering if the reading will be misleading in
that
> spot, rather than down the path a bit. Wouldn't
reading
> the full intensity of the forced airstream result in more
> fuel being dumped in than will be required? If a tube
>
followed the eRAM, and the MAS were put right before the
> throttle body
it seems like the intensity would have
> dropped off somewhat and would
provide a more accurate
> reading.(?)
I would put the MAS before
the eRam since the MAS is designed to have air pulled through and not pushed
through. The honeycombs may not be able to sufficiently straighten air
pushed through and you may get missed counts, resulting in less fuel which would
be undesireable. The other thing to worry about is that Karman vortices
may not form in a pushed stream, I think it is a pull-through phenomenon only,
although that's not my "area".
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 17:54:32 -0700
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: in search of
a wheel hub for 3000gt
Does anyone know of or can refer me to a place
that sells hubs for
3000/stealth for either momo wheels or grant. Grants web
sight is down and
momo does not specify a hub kit for this car and I'm
desperately in search
of one. Thanx
92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be
exactly what the plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://www.users.uswest.net/~ppalamara***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:28:16 -0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Toe Adjustment on Rear Wheels
Hey All,
I
finally had my car 4 wheel aligned after lowering it with Itrax
Springs and
GAB struts. I had a terrible time finding a shop that had an old
fashioned
lift type alignment set up (the car is too low to use on a
standard rack
style lift!). Everything came into line within expected
tolerances at
around 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the rears and the
front was within
.5 degrees neg. An unexpected toe problem came up with the
rear driver
side wheel. The toe is out (positive) about 2 degrees with all
possible
adjustments being made. Does anyone know of a trick to help pull
the
wheel back in? The passenger side rear is at a perfect 0 degree
toe
alignment.
Cheers,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T
TT
#416
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:34:24 -0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 110 Octane Low Lead Fuel
Hey All,
My R/T 10
Viper driving acquaintance claims great results from a mixture
of 25% 110
octane low-lead aviation fuel and 75% 92+ octane pump gas. I'd
like to
try it for myself but am very concerned about damaging my o2 sensors
and
catalytic converter. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Cheers,
Cory
Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
#416
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 16 Feb 2000 23:19:36 EST
From:
BHurvitz@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: apex
blow off valve and erratic idle
The 1G BOV sounds like a good street
setup. Would the rerouting back into the
intake stream after the airflow
sensor require a taping into the hose or is
there an existing line to
T off? Also Buscar shows a 1 G BOV with an adapter
idem #3019 Is this
the CBV that you are referring to.
Bob
91TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 17 Feb 2000 09:15:28 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Moving the MAS... Questions...
> > eRAM provides a
LOT more air, and the most logical place to
> > put the MAS is *right*
after the eRAM, toward the TB. I'm
> > just wondering if the
reading will be misleading in that
> > spot, rather than down the path
a bit. Wouldn't reading
> I would put the MAS before the eRam
since the MAS is designed to have air pulled through and not pushed
through. The honeycombs may not be able to sufficiently straighten air
pushed through and you may get missed counts, resulting in less fuel which would
be undesireable. The other thing to worry about is that Karman vortices
may not form in a pushed stream, I think it is a pull-through phenomenon only,
although that's not my "area".
Matt is very right with the
assumption regarding the airflow. But the amount of air when the eRAM is
activated is not that much higher and is only enough to give a little pressure
at say 6000rpm. Therefore the little push is not that important and it would
even work with the eRAM before the MAS.
But I'd also design the setup
with the filter directly attached to the MAS (still an oval one or with an
adapter), then some good tubing to the eRAM and good tubing to the
TB.
Regarding the dump, this shouldn't be a problem as the eRAM should
only be activated in the top WOT area where the additional airflow is
needed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:46:52 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
Yep, thats the
one. $140 seems steep for a price. You could buy the BOV
from a
Mitsu dealer for $85. And any high school kid could make the adapter
for about $5 in parts, if they knew what they were doing. I guess the
import market is doing really good. :) You can haggle with
Buschur for the
best price or there are other DSM shops that sell the same
thing.
This BOV setup directly replaces the stock 3/S BOV. There is
no tapping or
customizing to do. If you can hook up two 1" hose
clamps and a 6mm vacumn
hose, then your capable of installing this
mod.
Hope that helps,
Curt
Come join us for the Upper Midwest
Gathering.
Details at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
BHurvitz@aol.com>Subject: Re:
Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
>
>The 1G BOV sounds
like a good street setup. Would the rerouting back into
>the
>intake stream after the airflow sensor require a taping into
the hose or is
>there an existing line to T off? Also Buscar shows a
1 G BOV with an
>adapter
>idem #3019 Is this the CBV that you
are referring
to.
>
>Bob
>91TT
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of team3s V1 #60
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