team3s
Tuesday, February 15
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
059
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:58:58 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
You guys need to get the
Greddy Type S BOV. It installs like the stocker so that there's no stumble. Or
you could go to a VPC....
Trevor
96 Stealth R/T TT
92 GMC
Typhoon
Matthews wrote:
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
>
> Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
>
> > ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
> >
> > > i just put in the apex twin chamber blow
off valve and now
> > > the car seems to lose idle (engine dies)
frequently. is
> > > there something i can do to fix this
myself?
> >
> > Sure, take off the Apex BOV and put the stock
valve back on. The problem is created by the loss of air which the ECU has
measured and expects to enter the cylinders at some point. When that air
never arrives in the cylinders, the car doesn't know better and injects the
appropriate amount of fuel to combust a mixture that isn't there. If there
are adjustments on the Apex valve to make it stiffer and resist opening more,
you could try to stiffen it up some, however you will still have the basic
problem mentioned above.
>
> This is the same behavior I experienced
after installing the Blitz BOV. The
> stiffer I adjust it the less
the engine stumbles, and of course the less benefit
> the BOV offers
between shifts (which always seemed minimal, anyway). The main
>
reason I installed the BOV was to eliminate the intake resonance that began
with
> installation of the FIPK, so I leave it on, but even tightened down
to its
> stiffest setting I get an annoying stumble when I let off the
throttle. As soon
> as I find a better solution for the intake
resonance, the BOV is coming back
> off.
>
> --
> Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews>
>
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
>
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
> Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
> Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer
(30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline
ShockProof fluids
> Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake
lines
> Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
> G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406
SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the
NEW Team3S list address:
>
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Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 00:47:41
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Recommend Porterfield Vendor?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
> I think now they are referring to
them as R4E's, not R4S's.
Nono, the R4S are still the good compound for a
high temp range (winter and
summer) and are the AP531 for the front and AP532
(1 piston caliper) or AP631 (2
piston caliper). The umber is only the style
of the pad and doesn't reflect the
compound.
The R4E are the endurance
series and I'd try it for the summer as they withstand
higher temperatured
but may be too hot for the stock rotors.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:59:51
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Sad Report
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
LEESBURG, Ky. (AP) -- A plane plunged into a muddy
field on a central
Kentucky farm Monday, killing former Indy-car driver Tony
Bettenhausen Jr.,
his wife and two others aboard the twin-engine craft.
Brad Stevens, director of marketing for Bettenhausen Motorsports
in
Indianapolis, identified those aboard the plane as Bettenhausen, his
wife,
Shirley Bettenhausen; Russ Roberts, a partner in Bettenhausen's
racing
team, and Larry Rangel, an Indiana businessman.
Kentucky State
Police spokesman Rick Devers said the plane was destroyed by
fire. It crashed
near the rural community of Leesburg in southern Harrison
County, near the
boundary with Bourbon and Scott counties. The crash site
is about 30 miles
north of Lexington, Ky.
Kathleen Bergen, a spokeswoman for the Federal
Aviation Administration,
said the plane had taken off from Tri-City Airport
in Blountville, Tenn.,
en route to Eagle Creek Airpark in Indianapolis.
Jose Ocampo, a pilot who was at the Georgetown, Ky., airport when the
crash
was reported about 11:45 a.m. EST, flew in a helicopter to the
scene.
Ocampo and state officials said the plane appeared to be a
twin-engine
Beech Baron.
Rich
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:06:32
-0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
gil_lee@usa.net wrote:
> i just put
in the apex twin chamber blow off valve and now the car seems to
> lose
idle (engine dies) frequently. is there something i can do to fix
this
> myself?
You should be able to tighten up the spring
by
means of a screw on the BOV.
I played with the screw for a bit on
my Blitz BOV
so that it now idles fine and there is only a very
slight
"lag" (no stumble) after a shift. And it still
puts out a lot
of sound.
BTW, the Apexi BOV has a terrible reputation for
the problem
that you speak of. People on the Supra
mailing list would complain
about it all the time, and
they would tell everyone to switch to the Blitz or
the
HKS. (Supra doesn't use Karman Vortex like our
cars). I
think the Apexi is probably just poorly designed,
and that maybe causes it to
leak badly all the time.
- --Errin
Seattle
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 19:56:19
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS
peak hold gages
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
I recently bought a set of used HKS electronic 60mm gauges
--- as usual the
instructions are in Japanese, and as such are beyond my
ability to read.
If anybody has installed them [ EGT and boost ] perhaps you
could identify
some of the wires.
There are two harneses for each gauge
--- harness one has the signal wires
and a brown, a light green and a grey
wire, the other harness has a red, a
black, a yellow and an orange
wire.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
Berry
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 20:23:24
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
HKS peak hold gages
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
> I recently bought a set of used HKS electronic
60mm gauges --- as usual the
> instructions are in Japanese, and as such
are beyond my ability to read.
> If anybody has installed them [ EGT and
boost ] perhaps you could identify
> some of the wires.
> There are
two harneses for each gauge --- harness one has the signal wires
> and a
brown, a light green and a grey wire, the other harness has a red, a
>
black, a yellow and an orange wire.
> Any help would be
appreciated.
>
> Jim Berry
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 00:17:43
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Moving the MAS... Questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Bob, I suggest to stay
non-private as some thoughts may be debatable.
> --When we move the
MAS, should we move it to the TB end or to the
> filter end?
The
MAS honeycombs act as an airflow straightener. I'd therefore would say
that
the closer to the intake the better. But then also the temperature for
the
air sensor would read more engine temp than air temp. Heating up the MAS
box
is not recommended.
> --Will the MAS slow down the intake air more at
the TB end or the
> filter end?
Depends on the design of the
intake. Decreasing the intake diameter may
increase the velocity of air. But
then the restricion is still there. It's
like the weakest part of a chain. It
doesn't matter where it is it will
brake there.
> --Will we change
the MAS readings by adding an extension to the
> wiring?
No. Just
use wires of the same quality like stock and make sure they do not
travel
besides hot parts or the ignition. I'd use some shielded wires but it
is not
really necessary.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 22:49:14
-0800
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Moving the MAS... Questions...
> > --When we move the MAS,
should we move it to the TB end or to the
> > filter
end?
>
> The MAS honeycombs act as an airflow straightener. I'd
therefore would say
> that the closer to the intake the better. But then
also the temperature for
> the air sensor would read more engine temp than
air temp. Heating up the MAS
> box is not recommended.
That is
correct, but it only matters for the AFM electronics themselves.
The
honeycomb reduces turbulence so the electronics can get a more accurate
steady
reading. What happens after that doesnt matter much at
all.
Personally it doesnt matter _much_ where you put it, but I would
tend to guess
that flow/temp/density differences between fresh air,
and
compressed/boosted/accelerated air masses _could_ cause a significant
change in
how things work..probly make the car feel like it's
carburreted..and the
throttle pump is busted (The part that squits in extra
gas when you depress the
pedal, because airflow hasnt caught up with your
needs for fuel as you step on
it). I imagine either a funky mixture
because of the flow/temp/density changes,
or that the pedal/response action
will be out of sync enough that you just know
it.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 07:39:35 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
Curt Gendron
wrote:
>
> There are two ways to fix this... Either buy a 1G
DSM BOV or find a way to
> vent the air back into the intake. The
key thing, as Matt stated is the ECU
> measured the air that your venting
to the atmosphere. So you need to vent
> the air back into the air
intake after the MAS.
Confusing thing is that I get the stumble
consistently about one second I let
off the throttle, even after very mild
acceleration with boost not getting above
vacuum. Under these
conditions, the BOV should not be venting at all! Note
that unlike some
BOVs, the Blitz is installed along WITH the stock BPV, again
leading me to
believe that the car should run like stock under the conditions I
described
above, with the Blitz only venting under large pressure
differentials.
Apparently not.
At any rate, a 1G DSM BPV sounds like the way to
go.
Dan Jett wrote:
>
> I too have the
"stutter" with my BOV. I have the Greddy type S, which
> vents
back into the intake. I have adjusted the valve to both
> extremes, and
everywhere in between. I have the stutter minimized for
> the most part,
but at times, especially when the car is warmed up, it
> comes back.
Interstingly, it seems to stutter only under MILD
> acceleration,
ie., when rpm's are under 3500. This leads me to
> believe that the
valve isn't fully closed when the throttle plate
> opens back up. My
mileage dropped a couple mpg since install as well,
> which would support
this theory, as it seems I'm running alittle more
> rich.
My
mileage seemed to drop slightly as well, though driving on the Autobahn
has
thrown mileage consistency out the window. Note that I do NOT see
stumble WHEN
accelerating. Are you sure your hose connections are all
tight? There is no
way that BOV should be venting when you're on the
gas.
Frustrating.
-Jim
P.S.- I guess this thread is not
going to help me sell my BOV once it comes off,
huh? :-|
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
(Europe)
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
(U.S.A.)
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS
6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N
FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec),
Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec
@ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 04:24:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Custom Guage pod for Mitsu 3000GT
> I was wondering if there is any
interest in getting
> these custom guage pods
> <
http://www.3si.org/rob/dashboardpod.JPG>
or an
> A-pillar guage pod made by these guys. Check out
> there
website and see if there is a definite 20 ppl
> and for what type. Here is
there info for anyone
> that wants to stop by their shop and look
around:
>
> Lo-Tek Engineering
> 328 Crestview Drive
>
Durham, NC 27712
> (919) 479-0749
>
www.mindspring.com/~lotek/>
> From: "Lo-Tek Engineering" <
lotek@mindspring.com>
> To:
"Frank Chen" <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re:
Custom Guage Pod for Mitsu 3000GT
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:27:28
-0000
>
> Frank,
>
> The dash mounted pod in your
picture would not be
> too difficult to
> reproduce - as long as we
had a sample. If we have
> to do the fabrication ourselves, it would
be
> considerably more costly. Pillars run between $39
> and $44. We
would consider tooling up for a new
> project if you could secure 20
prepaid orders. The
> first step is to get us an OEM pillar to
evaluate.
>
> Regards,
>
> Lyle Simons
> Lo-Tek
Engineering
> 328 Crestview Drive
> Durham, NC 27712
> (919)
479-0749
>
www.mindspring.com/~lotek/>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> To: <
lotek@mindspring.com>
> Cc:
<
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> Sent:
Saturday, February 12, 2000 3:38 AM
> Subject: Custom Guage Pod for Mitsu
3000GT
>
>
> > Dear Lotek,
> > I noticed your
site from a reference on the
> Jeep
> > Cherokee list. Mainly a
guy by the name of
> >
XJGuy@aol.com
. Anyhow, I was wondering if you
> would
> > be able to make a
guage pod similar in design to
> the
> > one at the URL below.
Please let me know as to
> what
> > the cost per person would be
for the type guage
> pod
> > below and the cost per person for
the type that is
> > A-pillar mounted. Thank you.
> >
>
>
http://www.3si.org/rob/dashboardpod.JPG>
>
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2016573246@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/__________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 07:24:29 -0800
From: Dan Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle -Reply
>>Note that
I do NOT see stumble WHEN
>>accelerating. Are you sure your hose
connections are all >>tight?
There is no way that BOV should be
venting when >>you're on the gas.
It's not that the BOV is venting
under acceleration. When I lift off
the throttle, the BOV opens. As I start
opening the throttle again,
there seems to be a period of overlap while the
BOV is closing and
the TB is opening that I feel the stumble. If I lift,
shift, and go
WOT I don't feel the stumble, it seems to only happen under
3500 rpm
directly after shifting. This would produce a slightly
rich
condition, as some of the air that is being metered actually
escapes
while the BOV is closing. Interestingly enough, I have tightened
the
BOV spring almost fully, (less valve travel), and the problem
was
still there.
Dan Jett
94 Stealth TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:57:39 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: apex blow off valve and erratic idle
I think your BOV will
vent even with a little bit of boost. Actually most
of the people that
I have talked to get the stumbling under normal driving.
Under drag
racing conditions is where an aftermarket BOV "may" help.
I
know I've said this many times before, but here it goes again.... The 1G
DSM BOV (90-94 Eclipse/Talon/Laser, turbo, Blow Off Valve) is the best
solution to the "honking goose" and holding boost problem with the
3/S. The
3/S stock BOV will start to leak at 15psi, and will not allow
the stock
turbos to ever get past 20psi. The 1G DSM BOV will start to
leak boost
around 20-22psi, and it will allow the 9B turbos to boost up to
24psi.
(don't ask) At least for a moment anyways.
One other
note... The condition of your stock BOV will vary. It has a
spring, and springs wear out over time. John Basol was able to get
1-2psi
more than my Stealth with the same set up. Of course that
changed when the
BOV changed. My stock BOV sounded like a baby
rattle. :) Needless to say,
my stock BOV is now on my 96
Eclipse, because the 2G DSM BOV is even more
worthless. (leaks past
12psi)
The adapter needed to make the 1G DSM BOV fit is the SAME adapter
DSM shops
sell for the 2G DSM adapters. Buschur and many other DSM
shops sell them.
I think the adapter is $20-$30. Shop
around.
later,
Curt
Come join us at the Upper Midwest
Gathering. Details at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
>Confusing
thing is that I get the stumble consistently about one second I
>let
>off the throttle, even after very mild acceleration with
boost not getting
>above
>vacuum. Under these conditions, the
BOV should not be venting at all!
>Note
>that unlike some
BOVs, the Blitz is installed along WITH the stock BPV,
>again
>leading me to believe that the car should run like stock
under the
>conditions I
>described above, with the Blitz only
venting under large pressure
>differentials. Apparently
not.
>
>At any rate, a 1G DSM BPV sounds like the way to
go.
>
> -Jim
>
>P.S.- I guess this thread is not going
to help me sell my BOV once it comes
>off,
>huh?
:-|
>--
>Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:01:59 EST
From:
LotoBoost@aol.comSubject: Team3S: N/A
Turbo Kit
All,
We have a non-Turbo Turbo kit in
the works for the 3000GT. We almost
have the kit complete, but need a
test car for final fitment tests and
computer modification. If anyone
is interested (we will need to borrow a
3000GT/Stealth n/a for about a
month), please give us a call 301-294-2700.
Thanks,
Mike
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com1994
Stealth Twin Turbo
Best et: 11.4 Best mph: 122.5
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:16:26 -0800
From: Dan Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blow off valves...(was: Apexi BOV/erratic idle)
>>One
other note... The condition of your stock BOV will >>vary.
It
has a spring, and springs wear out over time
Perhaps there is a
misunderstanding....The stock BOV is not in
question here...The thread was
"Apexi BOV's and ERRATIC IDLE...", and
developed into aftermarket
BOV's, in general. Check my posts, I was
referring to the GReddy Type S BOV,
and minute "stuttering" under
mild acceleration...There is no doubt
that the stock 3S BOV is
horrible, (I replaced mine due to it's ability to
leak under boost, a
feature I'm not at all interested in!). And while
the 1st gen DSM BOV
is a nice solution, some of us chose other routes.
Back to the issue at hand. It would be interesting to see how
many
people have "stuttering" or idling problems, and when,
with
aftermarket BOV's that vent to intake. Developing a solution to
this
would be even better...I wonder what the spring deflection is
at
14psi with aftermarket BOV's, I'm sure this is one reason why I
get
that "overlap", (BOV slightly open when throttle plate opens
again),
between lifting and getting back on the throttle...
Dan
Jett
94 Stealth TT
Greddy exhaust, Greddy Type S BOV, K/N FIPK,
Centerforce DFC
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:55:11 -0800
From: "Mohler,Anissa" <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gauges and Lights Questions
Hey all...
I've got some
gauges that I need to install in my car (EGT and Boost). I don't
want to use
A-pillar mounts if I can help it because the obstruct my view (being
short I
suppose it can't be helped). I'd like to install my new gauges in the
place
of the existing ones. But that would mean that I would lose the Oil
Pressure
or Engine Temp gauge to do it since there are only 3 spots for gauges.
I
don't like the look of the aftermarket 3 gauge pods that fit on top
of
existing gauges that I've seen.
Does anyone know of a place that
makes a combo Oil Pressure/Engine Temp gauge
that would fit into the stock
dash in place of one of the existing gauges?
While I've got the dash off
... I'm also interested in replacing the amber back
lights for the dash with
green lights ... has anyone tried this before?
Anissa Mohler
Network
Appliance - Serving Data by Design
http://www.netapp.com/-
------------------------------------
"Bubbles larger than 0.05 mm are
able to resist."
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:15:30 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gauges and Lights Questions
Impossible. They are not amber
lights. Instead they are white lights, and
the gauges are made out of
an amber plastic. Only way to get around it is
to change out the gauges
with aftermarket ones. Your best bet for
installation of additional
gauges may be to buy a 1 DIN radio and install 2
or three gauges below it
where the bottom half of the OEM radio
was.
Cody
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
While
I've got the dash off ... I'm also interested in replacing the
amber
back
lights for the dash with green lights ... has anyone tried this
before?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 12:24:13 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauges and Lights Questions
Westach (
http://www.westach.com ) probably makes a dual
temp/oil gauge.
You'll probably have to call them to find out, since
there website doesn't
have all there gauge combinations. It is
possible to put them in the 3
gauge cluster stock location, but it is a pain
in the butt to do. You have
to rip the whole dash off, and custom make
your own gauge holder. The stock
gauge cluster is all one
piece.
Hope that helps,
Curt
Come join us for the Upper Midwest
Gathering. Details at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html>From:
"Mohler,Anissa" <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
>To:
"
'Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Team3S: Gauges and Lights Questions
>Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:55:11
-0800
>
>Hey all...
>
>I've got some gauges that I need
to install in my car (EGT and Boost). I
>don't
>want to use
A-pillar mounts if I can help it because the obstruct my view
>(being
>short I suppose it can't be helped). I'd like to install
my new gauges in
>the
>place of the existing ones. But that would
mean that I would lose the Oil
>Pressure or Engine Temp gauge to do it
since there are only 3 spots for
>gauges.
>I don't like the look of
the aftermarket 3 gauge pods that fit on top of
>existing gauges that I've
seen.
>
>Does anyone know of a place that makes a combo Oil
Pressure/Engine Temp
>gauge
>that would fit into the stock dash in
place of one of the existing gauges?
>
>While I've got the dash off
... I'm also interested in replacing the amber
>back
>lights for
the dash with green lights ... has anyone tried this
before?
>
>Anissa Mohler
>Network Appliance - Serving Data by
Design
http://www.netapp.com/>------------------------------------
>"Bubbles
larger than 0.05 mm are able to resist."
>
>***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:25:01 -0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Custom Guage pod for Mitsu 3000GT
Its..an interesting design,
but ugly as hell in purple *laugh*
If theres more interest, we _may_ do
that.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Chen [
mailto:jeep1978@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 15, 2000 4:25 AM
To: Team3S Technical Forum
Subject:
Team3S: Custom Guage pod for Mitsu 3000GT
> I was wondering if
there is any interest in getting
> these custom guage pods
> <
http://www.3si.org/rob/dashboardpod.JPG>
or an
> A-pillar guage pod made by these guys. Check out
> there
website and see if there is a definite 20 ppl
> and for what type. Here is
there info for anyone
> that wants to stop by their shop and look
around:
>
> Lo-Tek Engineering
> 328 Crestview Drive
>
Durham, NC 27712
> (919) 479-0749
>
www.mindspring.com/~lotek/>
> From: "Lo-Tek Engineering" <
lotek@mindspring.com>
> To:
"Frank Chen" <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re:
Custom Guage Pod for Mitsu 3000GT
> Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 20:27:28
-0000
>
> Frank,
>
> The dash mounted pod in your
picture would not be
> too difficult to
> reproduce - as long as we
had a sample. If we have
> to do the fabrication ourselves, it would
be
> considerably more costly. Pillars run between $39
> and $44. We
would consider tooling up for a new
> project if you could secure 20
prepaid orders. The
> first step is to get us an OEM pillar to
evaluate.
>
> Regards,
>
> Lyle Simons
> Lo-Tek
Engineering
> 328 Crestview Drive
> Durham, NC 27712
> (919)
479-0749
>
www.mindspring.com/~lotek/>
----- Original Message -----
> From: Frank Chen <
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> To: <
lotek@mindspring.com>
> Cc:
<
jeep1978@yahoo.com>
> Sent:
Saturday, February 12, 2000 3:38 AM
> Subject: Custom Guage Pod for Mitsu
3000GT
>
>
> > Dear Lotek,
> > I noticed your
site from a reference on the
> Jeep
> > Cherokee list. Mainly a
guy by the name of
> >
XJGuy@aol.com
. Anyhow, I was wondering if you
> would
> > be able to make a
guage pod similar in design to
> the
> > one at the URL below.
Please let me know as to
> what
> > the cost per person would be
for the type guage
> pod
> > below and the cost per person for
the type that is
> > A-pillar mounted. Thank you.
> >
>
>
http://www.3si.org/rob/dashboardpod.JPG>
>
=====
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <
2016573246@mobile.att.net>
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www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:24:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gauges and Lights Questions
Anissa,
Westach (
http://www.westach.com/) indicates they will
make what
you want - single or dual guage, 2" or 3". You might try
there. I'm sure there are other places as well.
Jeff Lucius
Red
1992 Stealth TT - modified
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Mohler,Anissa" <
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 15, 2000 10:55 AM
Subject: Team3S: Gauges and Lights
Questions
Hey all...
I've got some gauges that I need to install
in my car (EGT and
Boost). I don't want to use A-pillar mounts if I can help
it
because the obstruct my view (being short I suppose it can't
be
helped). I'd like to install my new gauges in the place of the
existing
ones. ... snip .. snip
...
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:02:49 -0500
From: Rick D <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 1st Gen DSM BOV part #
Does anyone know the factory Mitsu part #
for the 1st generation DSM BOV?
Thanks in
advance.
Rick
Florida
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:04:29 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Moving the MAS... Questions...
> That is correct, but it
only matters for the AFM electronics themselves.
The
> honeycomb
reduces turbulence so the electronics can get a more accurate
steady
>
reading. What happens after that doesnt matter much at all.
Fully
agree :)
> Personally it doesnt matter _much_ where you put it, but I
would tend to
guess
> that flow/temp/density differences between fresh
air, and
> compressed/boosted/accelerated air masses _could_ cause a
significant
change in
> how things work..probly make the car feel like
it's carburreted..and the
> throttle pump is busted (The part that squits
in extra gas when you
depress the
> pedal, because airflow hasnt caught
up with your needs for fuel as you
step on
> it). I imagine
either a funky mixture because of the flow/temp/density
changes,
> or
that the pedal/response action will be out of sync enough that you
just
know
> it.
Well, it depends if a system measures air mass
or air flow and how sensible
it acts. I'd never ever put a MAS or MAF AFTER a
turbo. The readings
(especially the temp) would be totally wrong as you
explained. But this is
not a problem with something like an eRam or whatever
that only produces a
little amount of more air.
For a proper setup,
I'd recommend a filter placed in the cold airstream, a
tubing to a place
where it is not too wet, then the MAS, tubing to the eram
and tubign to the
TB. This should work perfectly.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:26:37 -0800
From: gil_lee@usa.net
Subject: Re: Team3S:
apex blow off valve and erratic idle
i've basically tightened the BOV
until the engine stops dying, now i'm
trying to loosen it to the point in
between
now I seem to be suffering a major drop in MPG after the BOV,
what kind of
range do most people get before and after?
so besides
wasting gas and rough idling to adjust for, are there any more
caveats of
having a BOV? i'm quite certain it's helping me hold boost
better and
besides the cool sound, faster spoolup between shifts (supposed
to save up to
0.5sec in 1/4mile), preserving turbo life, but is there
anything else it
helps with?
is an aftermarket exhaust essential to get the BOV to work
correctly? can
the BOV be adjusted to work correct with just a K&N
FIPK, AVC-R and stock
exhaust? do i need to tweak my spark plugs at
all? i'm running 1.0 BAR and
self learning duty cycle (ranges from 64 -
74%)
i heard that the blitz BOV works in conjunction with the stock to
avoid the
rough idle problem?
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: <
gil_lee@usa.net>; <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, February 13, 2000 11:35 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: apex blow off valve
and erratic idle
> > i just put in the apex twin chamber blow
off valve and now
> > the car seems to lose idle (engine dies)
frequently. is
> > there something i can do to fix this
myself?
>
> Sure, take off the Apex BOV and put the stock valve back
on. The problem
is created by the loss of air which the ECU has
measured and expects to
enter the cylinders at some point. When that
air never arrives in the
cylinders, the car doesn't know better and injects
the appropriate amount of
fuel to combust a mixture that isn't there.
If there are adjustments on the
Apex valve to make it stiffer and resist
opening more, you could try to
stiffen it up some, however you will still
have the basic problem mentioned
above.
>
> -Matt
> '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #59
********************
