team3s
Thursday, February 10
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
055
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:10:33 -0500
From: "Michael Chan" <
michael.chan@hcl.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust problem?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Hello and help...
I have a 91TT that I
maintain very well with an HKS Air Filter, AND downpipe
(the OEM one rusted
out so maybe I didn't maintain it that well!) - my
exhaust is stock.
Would this setup account for poor mileage? Pulgs, wires,
are fairly new
- Oxygen Sensors were bad and have been replaced. I can't
seem to
troubleshoot this problem...
If I were to upgrade my exhaust from the cat
back, can I expect more
consistent and maybe better
mileage?
Mike
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:17:15
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust problem?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> I have a 91TT that I maintain very well with
an HKS Air Filter, AND downpipe
> (the OEM one rusted out so maybe I
didn't maintain it that well!) - my
> exhaust is stock. Would this
setup account for poor mileage?
Your cats are maybe clogged up or you
have a lot of carbon deposits around the valve seats. The rest of teh exhaust
doesn't count to a bad mileage ... btw, what is a bad mileage, how much
mpg ??
> Pulgs, wires, are fairly new - Oxygen Sensors
were bad and have been replaced. I can't
> seem to troubleshoot this
problem...
Why went the O2 sensors bad ?? This is usally due to bad and
too much unburnt fuel ! Only get good gas, also run a can or two good injector
cleaners and make sure the filter is clean. Also you may open the y-pipe to
check any amount of oil in there as this could also ruin the O2
sensors.
> If I were to upgrade my exhaust from the cat back, can I
expect more
> consistent and maybe better
mileage?
No.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:38:56
-0500
From: "Michael Chan" <
michael.chan@hcl.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust problem?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
When I had my downpipe replaced, the main cat did
not seem to be clogged. I
only use Sunoco Ultra 94 for gas. I was
consistently getting 450km per
tank - mostly city driving. Now I have
to push it to get over 400. My
injectors were cleaned at one point, how
often does this have to be done?
As far as the O2 sensors go... I've had my
car for 9 years next month 125
000 km. Don't they ever wear
out?
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st <
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 09, 2000 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust
problem?
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
>> I have a 91TT that I maintain very well
with an HKS Air Filter, AND
downpipe
>> (the OEM one rusted out so
maybe I didn't maintain it that well!) - my
>> exhaust is stock.
Would this setup account for poor mileage?
>
>Your cats are maybe
clogged up or you have a lot of carbon deposits around
the valve seats. The
rest of teh exhaust doesn't count to a bad mileage ...
btw, what is a bad
mileage, how much mpg ??
>
>> Pulgs, wires, are
fairly new - Oxygen Sensors were bad and have been
replaced. I
can't
>> seem to troubleshoot this problem...
>
>Why went
the O2 sensors bad ?? This is usally due to bad and too much
unburnt fuel !
Only get good gas, also run a can or two good injector
cleaners and make sure
the filter is clean. Also you may open the y-pipe to
check any amount of oil
in there as this could also ruin the O2 sensors.
>
>> If I were
to upgrade my exhaust from the cat back, can I expect more
>>
consistent and maybe better
mileage?
>
>No.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>
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>
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subscribe/unsubscribe
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>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 09:37:23
-0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Exhaust problem?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
Michael;
Given the underhood temperatures with TT's,
it is best to run a can of
injector cleaner through (with a fillup) at
regualr intervals. Similarly,
fossil oils are not as reliable as synthetics
(ie Mobil 1) given these high
temperatures, and will over time leave
deposits from hign temp cooking that
will require a flush. As Roger noted, a
partially plugged cat or precat may
be problematic, but normally rough idling
is apparent if they are involved.
Try a ~good ~injector cleaner first, see if
it helps after running a tank of
gas. if not, investigate the cats. Always
let your car idle down for a
minute or two before shutting it off---this is
the same as installing a
turbo
timer.
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:34:18
EST
From:
MrX2111@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Engine psi capacity before boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
Hello all,
I
am about to get the e-ram and am wondering how much psi is to much for
the
NA cars. In case your wondering what an e-ram is its an electric turbo
charger i guess you can call it (
www.electricsupercharger.com).
The smaller
unit puts out 3 lbs. of thrust at 750cfm the larger unit has no
specs but
lets say its double so 6psi and 1500cfm. Is 6psi going to be safe?
Will it
have really bad long term effects? Any input would be good because i
plan on
buying it (larger one) or maybe use 2 large ones parrallel (12psi)
by friday.
Thanks In Advance
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:30:56
-0500
From: "Pete Ryner" <
pryner@ij.net>
Subject: Team3S: 91 VR4
FS
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
Don't want to bomb the list. Please reply directly to
pryner@ij.net if you
are interested.
1 owner, 65K, Exc cond, many new parts, $11,500. Time to
move
on.
Pete
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:53:20
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine psi capacity before boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
There is NO WAY they can put out as
much pressure as a small turbo, nor flow
as much as a turbo (1500 cfm would
be much more than even 15G's if I'm not
mistaken, not to mention our MAS only
will flow around 700 - 750 cfm I
believe)
Someone feel free to correct
me, but I highly doubt those statements.
As for the other statements, 6
psi will be fine on high octane gas and a
nice cool day. seriously, it
is probably right on the edge of being
dangerous. A little more, and it
might be dangerous. 12 psi is most
definitely dangerous. Not to
mention there is no intercooler to cool this
pressurized charge down (liquids
and gases build up enormous amounts of heat
when
compressed)
Cody
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine psi capacity before boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Hello all,
I am about to
get the e-ram and am wondering how much psi is to much for
the NA cars. In
case your wondering what an e-ram is its an electric turbo
charger i guess
you can call it (
www.electricsupercharger.com).
The smaller
unit puts out 3 lbs. of thrust at 750cfm the larger unit has no
specs but
lets say its double so 6psi and 1500cfm. Is 6psi going to be safe?
Will it
have really bad long term effects? Any input would be good because i
plan on
buying it (larger one) or maybe use 2 large ones parrallel (12psi)
by
friday.
Thanks In Advance
*** Please make sure you
are using the NEW Team3S list address:
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and all other important info is at:
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 18:11:07
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine psi capacity before boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
> I am
about to get the e-ram and am wondering how much psi
> is to much for the
NA cars. In case your wondering what an e-ram
> is its an electric turbo
charger i guess you can call it
> (
www.electricsupercharger.com).
The smaller unit puts out 3 lbs.
> of thrust at 750cfm the larger unit has
no specs but
> lets say its double so 6psi and 1500cfm. Is 6psi going to
be
> safe? Will it have really bad long term effects? Any input
would
> be good because i plan on buying it (larger one) or maybe use
2
> large ones parrallel (12psi) by friday.
Not sure where you got
those numbers, but the one that was already tested only put out an additional 6
HP or so. 6psi and 6HP are two totally different things. If I
remember correctly, the "boost" effect was only 1/2 psi or so. 3
pounds of "thrust" is a much different measurement than 3 pounds per
square inch. 3 pounds of thrust is a total measurement of air pushed,
whereas 3psi is the amount exerted against a one inch square area.
You
aren't going to see any engine damaging amounts of pressure out of these things,
and no crazy increases in horsepower either.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:25:51
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine psi capacity before boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From:
Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>>
MrX2111@aol.com
wrote>>>
>> I am about to get the
e-ram and am wondering how much psi
- --snip--------
>> lets say its
double so 6psi and 1500cfm. Is 6psi going to be
>> safe? Will it have
really bad long term effects? Any input would
>> be good because i plan
on buying it (larger one) or maybe use 2
>> large ones parrallel
(12psi) by friday.
>
>Not sure where you got those numbers, but the
one that was already
tested only put out an additional 6 HP or so. 6psi
and 6HP are two
totally different things. If I remember correctly, the
"boost"
effect was only 1/2 psi or so. 3 pounds of
"thrust" is a much
different measurement than 3 pounds per square
inch. 3 pounds of
thrust is a total measurement of air pushed, whereas
3psi is the
amount exerted against a one inch square area.
>You aren't
going to see any engine damaging amounts of pressure out
of these things, and
no crazy increases in horsepower either.
Matt is right, but the
number PER unit was 1 psi, not 3, and not
1/2. Remember too, that this
unit only kicks in at WOT or just
before WOT, depending on how you set it
up. It is not on all the
time, but is just for those times when you
need another 10%+ HP
bump. It is not going to hurt your engine, in
fact, our engines are
restricted by a poor intake design as to how much air
they can get.
If anything, getting more air will be a good thing.
The
test we did was only partially rigged, and at a bad angle, so we
only got
something between 6 and 10HP, I think, but that was for
just a single eRAM on
a Stealth base. On the DOHC, the numbers
should be better, as they will
be with a clean install, and around
double that for a pair of
units.
The entire write-up is on our Team3S website, at:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQeram.htmDon't
forget that we get a Team3S discount of 25%. I'll be getting
a pair of
these or the Super eRAM within a week or so too, so we
should have some great
new data for the list soon. AND a nice HP
increase!
:-)
Don't forget to dyno before and after and send me your
data!!!
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 20:09:29
-0800
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plugs: Which brand/# for NON-PLATINUMS
***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Since I
replaced my manifold with the IMP, it now only takes 30 minutes
to change all
of my plugs. Thus, I've decided to go to the cheap ones.
I remember
there was a brand that either Jack or Bob was using instead
of the expensive
platinums.
Anyone remember the part number?
Also, what problems
should I experience. I figure they just don't last
as long.
Thanks in advance!
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:37:09
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alignment settings
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
I'm getting ready to take the Mitsu out of its
warm garage, install camber
plates, and get it aligned.
Later, we'll
run it on a test track with an infrared thermometer to measure
tire temps and
all that, and adjust it so the tire temps read the same all
the way
across.
What I need from anyone who has been through this before is a
starting
point: What are good caster/camber/toe settings to start
from?
It's a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD with Eibach springs, set as
low as
possible without cutting anything. We lowered it about 1 to 1.5 in.
all the
way around with the Ground Control kit.
The rear wheels are
at 1.5 deg negative camber, with no adjustment possible
unless I install
something back there. But that's OK, that setting suits me.
Question 1:
Where should I set the fronts after we put the plates in? What
is a good
starting point?
Question 2: After we get it trackside, and fiddle with
the camber and tire
pressures to get the tire temps to read OK, what then? Do
I leave the
alignment alone? Or take it back to the alignment shop for caster
and toe
adjustments? Should I attempt to change caster and toe trackside
to
compensate for camber adjustments, or let them go until we get to
the
alignment shop? When we get to the alignment shop, how do I keep
those
nifty camber settings while we adjust castor and toe?
I have
access to a test track about 65 miles from here, so I have the time
and
opportunity to test the car before going to an actual open track event.
Recommendations?
Rich/94 Mitsu VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 21:10:14
-0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spark Plugs: Which brand/# for NON-PLATINUMS
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Vect0r0
Please
sign out like a human so I know who you are. Also, enlighten this
unwashed
one and do tell what IMP is.? I live on the edge of the The Great
Northen Ice
Shelf, and we just don't understand such abbreviations up here
in Igloo land.
However. 30 minutes sounds almost too much to hope for, so a
speech on
enlightenment would be nice. Savy?
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 00:05:30
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Injector cleaning intervals (was Exhaust problem?)
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Michael Chan
wrote:
> Now I have to push it to get over 400. My
> injectors
were cleaned at one point, how often does this have to be done?
See the
message below from RC engineering regarding injector cleaning.
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
RCENGINJ@aol.com>
To: <
swede@pclink.com>
Sent: Monday,
December 14, 1998 7:03 PM
Subject: injector
cleaning
>
> We recommend servicing the
injectors every 80-100K miles. If the motor
has
> less than 80K
miles but has the following symptoms, we recommend servicing
>
them.
>
> 1. Trouble passing smog tests.
>
2. Rough idle.
> 3. Poor
mileage
>
> We charge $24.00 per
injector. The turn around time is one
day.
>
> The injectors used on the 95
Stealth is extremely reliable. As long
as
> you change the fuel
filter on a regular basis and use name brand gas, your
> injectors should
last you a long time.
>
> Thank you for your
interest in RC Engineering and please feel free to
call
> or e-mail us
with any further questions you may have.
>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:33:16
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injector cleaning intervals (was Exhaust problem?)
***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Just a sidenote
:
Servicing the injectors is not cleaning via a fluid poured into the
tank. RC understands by servicing that they will be independently cleaned and
balanced.
Another effect of an injector cleaner is that the carbon
deposits that may clog up the valve seats will be removed (de-cocking). This is
the most problem when mileage is going down. Of course, before doign that I'd
measure compression and if it is weak this method should help. After this, the
comrpession should be tested again to check the results. If then compression is
still poor, the rings or in the worser case the pistons are broken and in the
worst case the valves are damaged. I doubt that there is any damage and
therefore I'd just de-cock the engine. After this, remove the negative lead to
the battery for a few minutes and then just drive the car normally. It will take
about 150 miles until the learning proces is fine. Therefore allow another tank
of gas to run through quicker. Also run the car pretty hard sometimes as this is
good for these engines.
Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT
PS: I
doubt the fuel filter is the cause for this behaviour but I also changed it at
the 60k service
> > We recommend servicing
the injectors every 80-100K miles. If the motor
> has
> >
less than 80K miles but has the following symptoms, we recommend
servicing
> > them.
> >
> > 1. Trouble
passing smog tests.
> > 2. Rough idle.
> >
3. Poor mileage
> >
> > We
charge $24.00 per injector. The turn around time is one day.
>
>
> > The injectors used on the 95 Stealth
is extremely reliable. As long
> as
> > you change the fuel
filter on a regular basis and use name brand gas, your
> > injectors
should last you a long time.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:14:37
-0500
From: monarchi@us.ibm.com
Subject: Team3S: 2 or 4 wheel
alignment
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
After replacing my two front struts, I am going to need
an alignment. For
a
FWD Stealth ES, do I need a 2 wheel alignment,
or 4 ? Is there anything to
align in the rear
?
Thanks,
Alan Monarchi
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:03:11
EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine psi capacity before
boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
First off, thank you all for your input. Second Sorry for
mistaking 3 lbs. of
thrust for 3psi. After gathering this info I
believe I will put the order in
today for a duel super e-ram set
up.
Thanks All
And I will let you know
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:03:28
EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine psi capacity before
boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
First off, thank you all for your input. Second Sorry for
mistaking 3 lbs. of
thrust for 3psi. After gathering this info I
believe I will put the order in
today for a duel super e-ram set
up.
Thanks All
And I will let you know
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:08:40
EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine psi capacity before
boom?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
Ok here is my next question i need 2 y pipes plastic is fine
from a vr4 who
upgraded to a hard pipe hopefuly. Any body care to donate or
sell for a
reaonable price?
Wei-Lik Liem
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:28:01
-0600
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plugs: Which brand/# for NON-PLATINUMS
***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Actually Darc, I
don't have the IMP manifold, I just have the stock plenum,
and in the past
with 2 people working I have changed the plugs in about 30
minutes.
Once you know where the bolts are it really isn't that hard.
jeff
'95
Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darcy" <w.c.e@home.com>
To:
"vect0r0" <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>;
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 11:10
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs: Which brand/# for
NON-PLATINUMS
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
>
>
> Vect0r0
>
> Please sign
out like a human so I know who you are. Also, enlighten this
> unwashed
one and do tell what IMP is.? I live on the edge of the The Great
>
Northen Ice Shelf, and we just don't understand such abbreviations up
here
> in Igloo land. However. 30 minutes sounds almost too much to hope
for, so
a
> speech on enlightenment would be nice.
Savy?
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
>
>
>
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>
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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 07:46:44
-0800
From: "Dave Holden"
<dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 or 4
wheel alignment
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Alan,
No question. Any FWD car should get a 4
wheel alignment. The rear wheels
have the same adjustments as the front
ones do. One thing to watch for
that I ran into with my car is
that the cams for setting the rear wheel
camber can seize. We had to
take a torch to mine to get them moving again.
Regards,
Dave
Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC
FWD Stealth ES, do I need
a 2 wheel alignment, or 4 ?
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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:33:43
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 or 4 wheel alignment
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- -----Original Message-----From:
monarchi@us.ibm.com
>After replacing my two front struts, I am going to
need an
alignment. For
>a
>FWD Stealth ES, do I need a 2
wheel alignment, or 4 ? Is there
anything to
>align in the rear
?
>Thanks,
> Alan Monarchi
Hey, Alan,
Every
time you change a setting or replace anything to do with
wheels, tires, or
springs, you change the driving dynamic of the
car, and a four-wheel
alignment is necessary. And since the front
struts had to be replaced,
it's possible that the rear alignment
might well have been knocked out of
spec. They might not even have
to adjust anything of the rear, but you
want to make sure and ask
for the readouts to keep them
honest.
There's a great write-up (and diagram) of the interaction
between
"Toe, Caster and Camber" and some fundamental info on
alignment on
our FAQ pages, under the section "Tires, Wheels, Brakes,
Springs":
www.stealth-3000gt.st/FAQ.htm .
If you got aftermarket,
instead of stock replacement struts, you
might also want to glance at Dennis
Bretton's write-up of his Ground
Control installation with GAB struts (his is
also a FWD), just for
an idea of what's involved. It's in the same FAQ
section...
Depending on how and where you drive, you might want to ask
them to
dial in slightly different settings from stock-- If you drive
fast
and have to deal with a lot of curves, some negative camber will
give
you better handling, but at the expense of slightly uneven tire
wear.
It's a personal choice, but I always prefer to get slightly
fewer miles on a
set of tires in exchange for great control. In
another compromise, by
adding positive caster, you will increase low
speed steering effort, but
improve your high speed stability. We
have 5-stage power steering
assist, so to me that's a worthwhile
(and almost unnoticeable) trade-off,
too.
Since I also have a FWD Stealth, email me privately if you want
my
numbers for my alignment
settings...
Best,
Forrest
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End of team3s V1
#55
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