team3s
Monday, February 7
2000 Volume 01
: Number
053
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 06 Feb 2000 21:11:10 -0500
From: Kermit Burroughs <
mymach5@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS:92 VR4
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
I'm putting my 92 up for sale. Basic mods done,
lots of stereo mods.
63000 miles. Asking 14,500.
If interested,
email me privately and I'll send you a detailed list of
what's on the
car. BTW, I'm in Richmond, Virginia. If you're close by,
we could
work out a meeting place.
And to answer the obvious question, its just
time to move on.
- --
**************
Kermit Burroughs
MyMach5@mindspring.comIRC -
MyMach5
IM - MifuneMoto
"Revolution starts at home,
preferably
in the bathroom mirror"
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 09:34:17
+0100
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Gremlinomobile : Backup
Lights
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
Not sure if this feature ever worked, anyway.
Car is
a 1992 RT/TT
When I engage the REVERSE, my backup lights will flash for a
very short
time....then stay OFF.
SO, I've NO backup lights when I
engage reverse.
After a couple tests, when I put VVEERRYY slowly the gear
in reverse,
moving the gear stick millimeter after millimeter, the lamps will
go ON
after 5 millimeter
Stick in neutral-> No backup
lights
Stick in front of the reverse position-> No backup lights
Stick
starting to travel towards REVERSE (5 millimeters)-> Backup lights
are
ON
Stick starting to travel towards REVERSE (1 centimeter)-> No
backup lights
anymore
Stick all the way to reverse-> No backup
lights
Any ideas what to check ?
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 03:55:17
-0500
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gremlinomobile : Backup Lights
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
If you hold the stick 5 millimeters
back will the lights stay on as long as
the stick is held in that
position? If so, and going by the fact that they
continue to come on
even if only momentarily, I would say it's probably not
a short. If it
were a short, you probably would have blown a fuse and they
wouldn't come
back on until the fuse was replaced. I don't understand
exactly how
it's determined that the lever is in reverse, but I would assume
there is a
simple electrical connection that is made when the lever is in
the reverse
position. This electrical connection could be in virtually any
of the
mechanical linkage, but I would hope it'd be near the shifter itself.
It
sounds like this connection has been moved so it no longer makes
contact
after the lever moves past that point. It's also possible that
the
connection is corroded and just isn't making good enough contact after
the
lever moves past that point. I'm not sure where this connection
would be
located, or if it even exists, but the theory seems sound. I
could only
suggest getting in touch with someone who has the shop manuals or
that has
dealt with a similar issue for more details.
hope that helps
a bit,
Jason
>Stick in neutral-> No backup lights
>Stick
in front of the reverse position-> No backup lights
>Stick starting to
travel towards REVERSE (5 millimeters)-> Backup
lights
are
>ON
>Stick starting to travel towards REVERSE (1
centimeter)-> No backup lights
>anymore
>Stick all the way to
reverse-> No backup lights
>
>Any ideas what to check
?
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 07:38:50
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gremlinomobile : Backup Lights
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
It sounds to like it is a bad reverse
light switch, once you move the
transmission fully into reverse it stops
making contact within the switch.
That would indicate there is a bad spot in
the switch contacts, internal to
the switch. I have had to replace mine
already and it is very easy to do.
The switch is located on the back side
(looking down from the front) of the
transmission with two wires leading into
it, easiest to get it from
underneath the car.
You can check it by
using a Volt Ohm Meter and measure your continuity, and
it should respond
just like your reverse light did, for a split second then
loose
contact.
But if it was me and since it only cost $4.95, with 3Si
discount, from West
Broad Mitsu (1-800-229-1001) I'd just replace
it.
Dave Best
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 10:12:09
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel cut problem.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> Lastly regarding the ARC, it simply doesn't
seem worth it to spend
> $1000 and have almost no control over the
air/fuel curve (and thus
> be able to achieve the right "sweet
spot" for your car) at specific
> points in your rpm range.
You're better off with something which
> you can actively ~tune~ yourself
like VPC/GCC, AFC, or PMS.
> You also have no control over timing (which
you can get with the
> somewhat more expensive Haltech or same priced
PMS).
That would be great, if a PMS existed for 3/S cars. Last time
I talked with them, there were no plans to make a PMS for our cars.
Haltech requires more tweaking that I'm capable of doing.
I ordered one
of the ARC's, hopefully it'll be good enough for what I need. Sounds like
maybe it isn't though. Bummer... I hope I can return it if it is
suboptimal!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:03:40
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel cut problem.
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> > Lastly regarding the ARC, it simply
doesn't seem worth it to spend
> > $1000 and have almost no control
over the air/fuel curve (and thus
> > be able to achieve the right
"sweet spot" for your car) at specific
> > points in your rpm
range.
Whoever wrote this had no idea of what he speaks about ! I'm sure
he'd never installed it nor studied the capabilities of the ARC or a VPC. The
load of the engine is what counts or why does he think the boost rises slower in
4th at 3000 than in 1st at the same rpm ? And does the guy who wrote this know
what important value a part of the airflow formula is ... right, rpm ! Oh, by
the way, you can always combine it with an AFC if you really want for fine
tuning !
> > You're better off with something which
> > you
can actively ~tune~ yourself like VPC/GCC, AFC, or PMS.
A very strange
statement, there is absolutely no need to tune any curve at the rpm points. I
agree with a little fine tuning as the ARC has only 2% steps and I wish to have
1% steps for the fine tuning. The AFC never ever can provide the same
capabilities as an ARC or how does this thing measure the load and higher
airflow.
> > You also have no control over timing (which you can
get with the
> > somewhat more expensive Haltech or same priced
PMS).
PMS and Haltech run both into the $1600 area for our cars. The PMS
has once been adapted but the datalogging featers were nit worth thinking
about.
> That would be great, if a PMS existed for 3/S cars.
Last time I talked with them, there were no plans to make a PMS for our
cars. Haltech requires more tweaking that I'm capable of
doing.
True.
> I ordered one of the ARC's, hopefully it'll be
good enough for what I need. Sounds like maybe it isn't though.
Bummer... I hope I can return it if it is suboptimal!
Why did you
ordered it without knowing what it does ? As you also ordered the bigger
injectors and pump at the same time, what way did you go ?
I had the AFC,
test-installed the VPC/GCC and am using the ARC.... now ask me why I have thrown
out the rest. BTW, the topic is totally wrong now because this has absolutely
nothing to do with fuel cut !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:23:51
-0600
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ARC vs VPC/AFC (was: Fuel cut problem)
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
>> I ordered one of the
ARC's, hopefully it'll be good enough
>> for what I need. Sounds
like maybe it isn't though.
>> Bummer... I hope I can
return it if it is suboptimal!
> Why did you ordered it without
knowing what it does ? As you
> also ordered the bigger injectors and
pump at the same time,
> what way did you go ?
I know what it
does, but not how it does it or how adjustable it is. I essentially went
on the knowlege that you (Roger) had provided to the list before about how good
it is. I hadn't heard negative opinions before this point.
I went
with 550cc injectors, the ARC, and am ordering the Supra fuel pump. I
don't plan on modifying the car beyond this point (15G's with the above,
downpipe, Borla exhaust, high-flow cat, gutting pre-cats, EVC IV), so I think
that will be sufficient for my needs for some time to come.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:19:36
-0600
From: Gabriel Estrada <
typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Fluid Change
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Can't find anywhere online a
maintenance schedule for my 94 VR-4. I just
rolled over 60k miles, and
I am curious to know at what intervals I need to
change tranny and the
differential fluids If someone could please pass to
me when these need
to be changed, as well what the best fluid combinations
are. I don't
believe that any of these have ever been changed so I am
curious to see if I
am overdue or not.
Thanks in advance
Gabriel Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow
VR-4
92 GMC Typhoon
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 13:26:52
-0800
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <
benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transmission Fluid Change
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Well I know that my transfluid was flushed at my
30K service, and I know
they do it on the 60K service. So I would
assume every 30K miles for
certain, but probably more often depending upon
how you drive your car.
Also, this is a manual transmission, for automatics,
I have no idea :).
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:33:50
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Technique for applying window tinting?
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Just wondering if anyone
knows an easy way to trim the top edges of the tint
on the windows that move
up and down. AFAIK, you're supposed to leave about
1/4" space from
the top edge of the tint to the top edge of the window, so
how do you get it
even (straight) and not scratch the glass? I know on the
back glass,
it's got the nice black edge around the glass, so the edge
doesn't have to be
perfect, but on the driver/passenger windows, the top
edge doesn't have
that. Suggestions?
Thanks!
- --Erik
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 12:34:47
-0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Injector questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
"R.G." wrote:
>
> the point you're trying to make. 260cfm is max for 9Bs at 15psi, so
this
> > is definitely the most you could expect from them at
redline.
>
> Damn, why can one know how much they flow if there are
no maps around. I
> don't understand this !
> Are you saying that
15psi is the max one can expect at teh redline ? If the
> 260cfm is
correct @ 15 psi then it is impossible that tehy can hold this
> boot at
7000. The calc says that boost is limited to 8.3 psi then as the
> engine
sucks in more air than the 9b would be able to deliver at 15 psi.
This is
what I was trying to say all along. I said airflow must be
lower than
260 cfm at redline, and it seemed you were questioning
this claim because I
don't have the flow maps. So in my statement
above, ALL I was saying is
that 260 cfm ~must~ be the upper
ceiling but we know that actual airflow
would be less. :)
> > lean. The ECU is constantly
adjusting the mixture to attain roughy 0.5v
> > under normal driving
conditions. This does NOT apply at WOT. At
> > WOT the ECU
goes into open loop mode and ignores the O2 sensor
> >
completely. At that point the ECU (in our cars) dumps as much fuel
as
>
> I do not fully disagree with the great information. The only
fact that is
> forgotten is that the ECU goes in open loop when the TPS is
showing a more
> than 50% open condition and a larger amount of air flow.
Simply open the
> throttle fully at 2500 rpm and the mixture goes rich.
[snip]
> opened less time. Now, at WOT (or what the ECU thinks is WOT)
fuel is still
> dumped in like crazy causing the ovwer-rich
conditions.
So it seems you're ~now~ saying that the ~is~ a connection
between
the switch between open/closed loop and the injectors dumping
in
fuel "like crazy." I was originally responding to your
statement:
>>> I guess somebody is mixing different wordings
here. Open-Loop means
>>> the ECU uses table vlaues for the
injectors without looking at the O2
>>> sensors !! This has nothing
to do with the injectors beiing wide open.
And as Barry suggested one
time, it is possible that the TPS is ~not~
the only factor which the ECU uses
to decide whether or not to go
to open loop. It's quite possible that
it also takes airflow (from the
MAS) into account which would explain why he
was able to keep it
in closed loop with an AFC and its tuning
capabilities. :)
> PS: Don't forget the weak ignition in our
cars...
Still a major bummer. And the stock cams are another
limiting factor.
- --Errin
Seattle
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 13:42:27
-0700
From: "Kevin Fanciulli" <
StealthTwinTurbo@bigfoot.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gremlinomobile : Backup Lights
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
My '92 RT/TT has this problem
-- no reverse lights. It is in the shop right
now and was found to be a
MISSING reverse switch! It's not even IN the car!
I bought the car last
July, so I'm not sure about it's history before
that.... like, where did it
go???
- -kevin fanciulli
'92 Stealth RT/TT (still getting Getrag,
t-case, etc etc etc etc fixed --
almost 2 months in the shop)
3Si
#0375
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of WALTER D. BEST
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 5:39 AM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gremlinomobile : Backup Lights
***This
is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
It sounds
to like it is a bad reverse light switch, once you move the
transmission
fully into reverse it stops making contact within the switch.
That would
indicate there is a bad spot in the switch contacts, internal to
the
switch. I have had to replace mine already and it is very easy to
do.
The switch is located on the back side (looking down from the front) of
the
transmission with two wires leading into it, easiest to get it
from
underneath the car.
You can check it by using a Volt Ohm Meter
and measure your continuity, and
it should respond just like your reverse
light did, for a split second then
loose contact.
But if it was me and
since it only cost $4.95, with 3Si discount, from West
Broad Mitsu
(1-800-229-1001) I'd just replace it.
Dave Best
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:23:04
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission Fluid Change
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
My owners manual says to check the
fluid in the tranny, transfer case, and rear
end at 30K and every 30K after
that. It doesn't say anything about changing it.
However the "Severe
Duty" chart says to change the tranny and transfer case
fluid every 30K.
It doesn't say anything about the diff fluid. This "severe
duty"
chart also recommends changing the plugs every 15K!
Trevor
96 Stealth
R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
AWD Turbo Terrors!!
Gabriel Estrada
wrote:
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
> Can't find anywhere online a maintenance schedule for
my 94 VR-4. I just
> rolled over 60k miles, and I am curious to know
at what intervals I need to
> change tranny and the differential
fluids If someone could please pass to
> me when these need to be
changed, as well what the best fluid combinations
> are. I don't
believe that any of these have ever been changed so I am
> curious to see
if I am overdue or not.
> Thanks in advance
> Gabriel
Estrada
> 94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
> 92 GMC Typhoon
>
> ***
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>
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Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info is at:
>
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 17:33:46
-0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: ARC vs VPC/AFC
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Hi Roger,
"R.G."
wrote:
> Whoever wrote this had no idea of what he speaks about
!
I'm not offended by this statement, but I would prefer that you talk
to
me directly rather than in third person style. :)
> I'm
sure he'd never installed it nor studied the capabilities of the
> ARC
or a VPC.
What I've written is based on information I've gathered from
Barry
King's old posts as well as from speaking to Jack Tertadian
(you
already know his accomplishments) and Mike Mahaffey (modifies
VPC for
2nd gens, sells the ARC, set up the fastest no-NOS VR4).
> The load of
the engine is what counts or why does he think the boost
> rises
slower in 4th at 3000 than in 1st at the same rpm ? And does the
> guy
who wrote this know what important value a part of the airflow
>
formula is ... right, rpm !
Ok, I'm not sure why you are bringing this
stuff up. It would be much
easier if you simply addressed my following
statements which I have
been saying all along. If I am wrong, then
please correct me:
1) The ARC-GP2 does not allow you to ~actively~ modify
the curve
by which fuel is delivered over the rpm range, whether at high or
low
throttle. The GCC and AFC allow you to do this, and so did
the
unfortunately now defunct TRE MASC unit.
2) The ARC-GP2 does not
have specific chips which are tailor made
for certain injector sizes.
You simply turn a knob to "choose" your
injector. This is
different than the VPC.
3) If 1 and 2 are correct, then the ARC is no
better than having a
VPC ~without~ a GCC, a setup which most people find
extremely
impractical once you go to ~larger~ than stock injectors and
turbos.
4) Allegedly, build quality is an issue with the ARC. It
might not
hold up as well over time as the HKS or Apexi units.
>
Oh, by the way, you can always combine it with an AFC if you
> really
want for fine tuning !
Right, but I'm not sure many people are interested
in paying $1000
just for an 83mm flow meter. That's why I've been
asking about the
possibility of getting somebody (maybe even Split Second) to
produce
the bigger MAS just by itself. Barry King was talking about
this a
long time ago on Starnet.
> The AFC never ever can provide
the same capabilities as an ARC
> or how does this thing measure the
load and higher airflow.
The AFC and ARC are both piggyback units.
The only difference
is that the ARC utilizes its own larger airflow
meter. Other than that,
the ARC has no inherent advantages over the AFC
since the AFC
simply modifies signals sent by the stock MAS. The AFC
has
~many~ features which the ARC does not have including the ability
to
actively tune your fuel curve. This tuning is rpm instead of
airflow
based, but it seems to be sufficient since it is simply modifying
signals
from the MAS and the map is semi-3D (has high and low
throttle
maps). It has worked well for many many fast reliable setups
here in
the U.S. as well as Japan.
> PMS and Haltech run both into
the $1600 area for our cars. The
> PMS has once been adapted but the
datalogging featers were nit
> worth thinking about.
I've only
seen the PMS selling for about $1000US. Datalogging aside,
lack of
ability to tune the timing curve is a major deficiency.
> I had the
AFC, test-installed the VPC/GCC and am using the ARC....
> now ask me
why I have thrown out the rest.
I think most of us are concerned with the
useability, tuneability,
practicality, and reliability of these systems when
they are really
being put to the real test, in other words when they are used
with
larger injectors, turbos and fuel pump.
-
--Errin
Seattle
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:45:24
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel Injector questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
> This is what I was trying to say all
along. I said airflow must be
> lower than 260 cfm at redline, and
it seemed you were questioning
> this claim because I don't have the flow
maps. So in my statement
> above, ALL I was saying is that 260 cfm
~must~ be the upper
> ceiling but we know that actual airflow would be
less. :)
Agreed. Total airflow for a pair of 9Bs will be less
than the 520 cfm
projected at redline with a full head of steam.
>
> > lean. The ECU is constantly adjusting the mixture to
attain
> roughy 0.5v
> > > under normal driving
conditions. This does NOT apply at WOT. At
> > > WOT the
ECU goes into open loop mode and ignores the O2 sensor
> > >
completely. At that point the ECU (in our cars) dumps as much fuel
as
> >
> > I do not fully disagree with the great information.
The only
> fact that is
> > forgotten is that the ECU goes in
open loop when the TPS is
> showing a more
> > than 50% open
condition and a larger amount of air flow. Simply open the
> > throttle
fully at 2500 rpm and the mixture goes rich. [snip]
> > opened less
time. Now, at WOT (or what the ECU thinks is WOT)
> fuel is still
>
> dumped in like crazy causing the ovwer-rich conditions.
>
> So
it seems you're ~now~ saying that the ~is~ a connection between
> the
switch between open/closed loop and the injectors dumping in
> fuel
"like crazy." I was originally responding to your
statement:
>
> >>> I guess somebody is mixing different
wordings here. Open-Loop means
> >>> the ECU uses table vlaues
for the injectors without looking at the O2
> >>> sensors !! This
has nothing to do with the injectors beiing wide open.
>
> And as
Barry suggested one time, it is possible that the TPS is ~not~
> the only
factor which the ECU uses to decide whether or not to go
> to open
loop. It's quite possible that it also takes airflow (from the
>
MAS) into account which would explain why he was able to keep it
> in
closed loop with an AFC and its tuning capabilities. :)
The ECU
looks at more than a few things according to the TRE experts at the
time and
the details I have been able to gather from various presumably
reliable
sources.
The ECU looks at the EGO only for cross-counts. The
voltage observed is
around the 0.5 V mark. No other votlages can be
directly related to the
mixture. Period. The ECU will also cause
a 0.0V or a full scale voltage to
appear depending upon other
conditions.
High cross counts means a good lean burn. Low cross
counts can mean too
lean or too rich. If the voltage is above 0.5V and
cross counts are low the
ECU assumes a rich condition.
The TPS also
will dump fuel in varying amounts. At low angles of opening
and low
changes in opening, a small amount of fuel is added to enrich the
mixture
temporarily. This is similar to the old style accelerator pump.
At
high openings and rapid changes above a certain angle (I do not know what
it
is, Roger's value of 50% seems reasonable) and with RPMs above a
certain
threshold, the ECU will simply start dumping as much fuel as
possible. At
WOT above a certain RPM this is also the case -- dump fuel
as fast as the
sytem will deliver.
As to the stock MAS, at 600 cfm or
so the counting system loses accuracy and
starts missing beats. The ECU
is actually told that less air is flowing
than there really is present.
This for me was another motivation for going
to a different style of meter
whether it actually flows better or not.
The MAF I now have (from TRE) is
supposedly calibrated up to 900 cfm. That
is far in excess of the
amount of HP I'll ever make. Also, the flow numbers
(which I do not
have) are supposedly superior to that of the stock MAS.
This is not hard to
believe when you consider that the TRE MAF is literally
a virtually
unrestricted tube of aluminum large enough that the average male
can fit
their fist into ;). Don't start a car equipped with one of
these
without an air filter and small animals around. The family cat
might end up
being blown out through the exhaust.
> > PS: Don't
forget the weak ignition in our cars...
I am not convinced the ignition
is "weak". It may not be adequate for
doubling the rated HP,
but I don't know how it is inherently weak. Pushing
21-30 psi through a
cylinder and expecting a 0.045" gapped plug to fire with
pretty much any
stock ignition would be optimistic at best. Maybe some
manufacturers
overbuild their ignitions and Mitsubishi didn't. *shrug*
> Still
a major bummer. And the stock cams are another limiting
factor.
>
> --Errin
>
Seattle
Barry
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Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 18:03:40
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel cut problem.
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> > Lastly regarding the ARC, it simply doesn't
seem worth it to spend
> > $1000 and have almost no control over the
air/fuel curve (and thus
> > be able to achieve the right "sweet
spot" for your car) at specific
> > points in your rpm
range.
Whoever wrote this had no idea of what he speaks about ! I'm sure
he'd never installed it nor studied the capabilities of the ARC or a VPC. The
load of the engine is what counts or why does he think the boost rises slower in
4th at 3000 than in 1st at the same rpm ? And does the guy who wrote this know
what important value a part of the airflow formula is ... right, rpm ! Oh, by
the way, you can always combine it with an AFC if you really want for fine
tuning !
> > You're better off with something which
> > you
can actively ~tune~ yourself like VPC/GCC, AFC, or PMS.
A very strange
statement, there is absolutely no need to tune any curve at the rpm points. I
agree with a little fine tuning as the ARC has only 2% steps and I wish to have
1% steps for the fine tuning. The AFC never ever can provide the same
capabilities as an ARC or how does this thing measure the load and higher
airflow.
> > You also have no control over timing (which you can
get with the
> > somewhat more expensive Haltech or same priced
PMS).
PMS and Haltech run both into the $1600 area for our cars. The PMS
has once been adapted but the datalogging featers were nit worth thinking
about.
> That would be great, if a PMS existed for 3/S cars.
Last time I talked with them, there were no plans to make a PMS for our
cars. Haltech requires more tweaking that I'm capable of
doing.
True.
> I ordered one of the ARC's, hopefully it'll be
good enough for what I need. Sounds like maybe it isn't though.
Bummer... I hope I can return it if it is suboptimal!
Why did you
ordered it without knowing what it does ? As you also ordered the bigger
injectors and pump at the same time, what way did you go ?
I had the AFC,
test-installed the VPC/GCC and am using the ARC.... now ask me why I have thrown
out the rest. BTW, the topic is totally wrong now because this has absolutely
nothing to do with fuel cut !!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 19:20:13
-0500
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: A/F
ratio data for NA cars.
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF700E.06CB40E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I
have been doing some tests with my A/F gauge installed on my R/T NA, =
and
the results look promising. At WOT, I am getting voltages (from the =
gauge,
these data will be backed up with Voltgauge numbers soon) ranging =
from
.8-1.0. This looks to be rich enough to lean out with some type of =
fuel
controller. Anybody out there well versed on O2 sensor data and =
give me
some info about what the voltages mean, how lean can/should I =
go, what is
the best air/fuel controller, etc.=20
Matt
-
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF700E.06CB40E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML
5.00.2919.6307"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have
been doing some tests with my =
A/F gauge=20
installed on my R/T NA, and
the results look promising. At WOT, I am =
getting=20
voltages (from the
gauge, these data will be backed up with Voltgauge =
numbers=20
soon)
ranging from .8-1.0. This looks to be rich enough to lean out with
=
some=20
type of fuel controller. Anybody out there well versed on O2
sensor data =
and=20
give me some info about what the voltages mean, how
lean can/should I =
go, what=20
is the best air/fuel controller, etc.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2>Matt</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BF700E.06CB40E0--
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End of team3s V1
#53
********************