team3s
Tuesday, February 1
2000 Volume 01
: Number
044
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:28:32 -0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: address
alert
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
Yo Team;
Please adjust your stored Team3S email
address to reflect the new Team 3S
address. Occasional postings are still
using the old address. These create
bounces and require the benevolence of an
administrator to cut and paste
your query into a new format and address it
properly.
Thanks in advance and back to your scheduled
program.
Darc for the admin
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 23:23:51
-0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Downpipe? Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
Stillen (and others) claim a ~23 hp
increase with a downpipe. I'm
interested. Is it a waste of
money?
Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T
TT
#416
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 10:13:04
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ECU Compatability (ADMIN NOTE)
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
Trent, please do not send any
messages to the old list anymore as this causes us some trouble, thanks
!
> Would it be possible to swap the ECU from a 94-95 3sTT with a 93's
ECU?
> Are the connectors and pins that plug into the ECU the
same?
No, the connectors and diagnostic port connections to and from the
ECU are not compatible !
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 07:29:37
-0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Downpipe? Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Cory...
The gain is
significant when coupled with the removal of the precats and
main cat. I
don't have before and after measurements, but the "butt
dyno"
clearly showed an improvement over when I had my GReddy catback
only. FWIW,
I used ATRs product.
There has been lots of discussion as
well, about the logic of changing the
injectors first. It's about the same
cost for each. Replacing the downpipe
is fairly easy, the precats are
something of a hassle. The injector upgrade
is more likely to prevent engine
damage.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: CORY ESKELSEN [
mailto:CESKELSEN@email.msn.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 31, 2000 10:24 PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: Downpipe?
Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Stillen (and others) claim a ~23 hp increase
with a downpipe. I'm
interested. Is it a waste of
money?
Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T
TT
#416
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 06:45:12
-0600
From: "Bill Davis" <
wjdavis@inlink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
TSB Transmission Vent
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Not too long ago I thought someone posted
information
about a little known TSB for the transmission vent
leaking,
but I can't find it.
I had my car in Friday for oil change,
and for the third time
in a row the transmission is leaking, we beleive from
the vent.
Mitsu is ready to replace the tranny, it's under
extended
warranty, and would only cost me $50.00. I would rather
have it
fixed though if it's only leaking from the top vent.
We looked through
the TSB listing they had, but could not
find it. The mechanics told me that's
not unusual, for certain
TSB's though.
I would hate to get stuck with
a pile of junk, my current
tranny is in great condition, other than this
possible leak.
If anyone knows about this please let me know.
Bill
Davis 95 VR-4
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 10:33:58
+0100
From: "RG" <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Downpipe? Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
> Stillen (and others) claim a
~23 hp increase with a downpipe. I'm
> interested. Is it a
waste of money?
Cory, as usual the package is what counts. Three cars,
two with different downpipes and one with stock setup showed zero difference on
the dyno. The real restrictors are the pre-cats and then the downpipe starts to
count. Some experienced a better spool-up after increasing boost and this is due
to the better flow of the dp. Of course, this results in better et's on the
track due to the better turbo spool-up but doesn't give you any horses. Again,
it's the combination of gutted pre-cats, downpipe, high flow cat or testpipe,
larger piping to the rear, better y to the mufflers and good mufflers that play
the music.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 11:23:38
-0500 (EST)
From: Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Couple questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
well, i went out to grab some lunch yesterday
from work... (i live in
rochester, ny and it's been snowing a bunch
lately) I got onto a stretch
of highway and took my '93 vr4 up to about
70mph at which point i noticed
a "wobble". The car was
noticeably wobbling from side to side. I slowed
down and it went
away. I thought perhaps it might be something to do with
the tires,
maybe one had a leak. Maybe a loose lug nut. Hopefully
not
anything to do with the rest of the suspension. So I stopped to get
some
gas and took a look at the tires. The pressure seemed good in all
of
them, they didn't feel loose given a bit of a tug... however, I noticed
a
buildup of snow inside the wheel. I grabbed a rag I carry in the car
and
tried to knock as much of it out from each wheel as I could. I
grabbed
some lunch at taco bell and took a route back to work with a nice,
long
straightaway. I took the car to about 80-85 and all the way there
was no
wobble! I thought that the snow MIGHT, on an outside chance,
have been
the problem. Ie: there were spots inside the wheel where
there was more
snow than others, but overall I didn't think this would cause
a wobble
like the one I had felt. So, in conclusion, the wobble's gone,
and i'm
left wondering if snow inside the wheels could really have caused it
or if
it's going to come back to haunt me.
Secondly, I noticed while
looking at the wheels that the chrome is a
little bit chipped by the
nuts. I looked at tirerack.com briefly, and I
was wondering if someone
might mail me privately with what prices for four
nice wheels and tires
SHOULD be. In addition, i was wondering if you can
just switch to 18"
wheels without any problems, and what ramifications it
would have. (ie:
speedo off, etc)
Thirdly, I realize that some, if not all, of the wheel
questions are
likely to be covered in the archives... however, I can't seem
to find them
anywhere. Could someone post to the list the address at
which we can
access them? (I can't be the only one in the dark about
this...)
Many thanks,
andy
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 10:30:06
-0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Couple questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Andy,
I would definately say it was the
snow that cuz your
wheel to wobble. The snow actually caused your
wheel
to be 'unbalanced'. You know when you mount and
balance a new
tire.. they stick on these lil weights
to perfect out the rotation.. so the
snow inside ur
rim acts as extra weight.
As for the 18in wheel.
I wish you the best of luck
finding a set you like and THAT will fit your
VR4! I
been looking for another set of 18s and had no luck.
Either they
dont fit or they have to special order
from Japan! For a set of decent 18s
with decent tires,
you would be looking at around
$3000-$4000.
George
'92 RT TT
www.geocities.com/amkreadgto/intro.html-
--- Andrew Burke <
burke@pas.rochester.edu>
wrote:
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
> more
info.***
>
>
> well, i went out to grab some lunch yesterday
from
> work... (i live in
> rochester, ny and it's been snowing a
bunch lately)
> I got onto a stretch
> of highway and took my '93
vr4 up to about 70mph at
> which point i noticed
> a
"wobble". The car was noticeably wobbling from
> side to
side. I slowed
> down and it went away. I thought perhaps it
might
> be something to do with
> the tires, maybe one had a
leak. Maybe a loose lug
> nut. Hopefully not
> anything
to do with the rest of the suspension. So
> I stopped to get
some
> gas and took a look at the tires. The pressure
> seemed
good in all of
> them, they didn't feel loose given a bit of a
tug...
> however, I noticed a
> buildup of snow inside the
wheel. I grabbed a rag I
> carry in the car and
> tried to
knock as much of it out from each wheel as
> I could. I
grabbed
> some lunch at taco bell and took a route back to
> work
with a nice, long
> straightaway. I took the car to about 80-85 and
all
> the way there was no
> wobble! I thought that the snow
MIGHT, on an
> outside chance, have been
> the problem. Ie:
there were spots inside the wheel
> where there was more
> snow than
others, but overall I didn't think this
> would cause a wobble
>
like the one I had felt. So, in conclusion, the
> wobble's gone, and
i'm
> left wondering if snow inside the wheels could
> really have
caused it or if
> it's going to come back to haunt me.
>
>
Secondly, I noticed while looking at the wheels that
> the chrome is
a
> little bit chipped by the nuts. I looked at
> tirerack.com
briefly, and I
> was wondering if someone might mail me privately
>
with what prices for four
> nice wheels and tires SHOULD be. In addition,
i was
> wondering if you can
> just switch to 18" wheels
without any problems, and
> what ramifications it
> would have. (ie:
speedo off, etc)
>
> Thirdly, I realize that some, if not all, of
the
> wheel questions are
> likely to be covered in the archives...
however, I
> can't seem to find them
> anywhere. Could someone
post to the list the
> address at which we can
> access them?
(I can't be the only one in the dark
> about this...)
>
>
Many thanks,
> andy
>
>
>
> *** Please make
sure you are using the NEW Team3S
> list address:
>
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Subscribe/unsubscribe and all other important info
> is at:
>
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***
>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:29:30
-0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <
pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Downpipe? Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
I believe that a downpipe is a very
wise thing to replace. The stock
unit just looks terrible as flow is
concerned. Using the old butt dyno I
noticed two things when I added
mine. Note that I have the ATR unit
which replaces the main cat. and I
gutted the pre-cats. at the same time.
My car would always drastically run
out of steam up top, but after the
downpipe/gutted pre-cats. it
"felt" like it pulled much harder to my
shifting point.
Secondly, down low the car felt like it produced much
more torque in 1st and
the beginning of second gear. Sorry no track
times because 2 days after
the downpipe install, a good friend and I,
(mainly the good friend) installed
15G
turbos.
Del
________________________________________________________________
YOU'RE
PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET!
Juno now offers FREE Internet
Access!
Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software,
visit:
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 10:44:12
-0800
From: "Bruce F. Body" <
bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3S
vs. F-Body
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
My brother in law belongs to the So. Cal. F-Body club. Since
we are
trying to setup a gathering over here, I was wondering if anyone
would
be interested in drag racing these guys. They get preferential
treatment
at Pomona Raceway. I've already contacted them to see if they
are
interested. Let me know. (I hope this is not off
topic)
Bruce
3Si #0243
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 20:42:37
+0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Downpipe? Is it worth the Trouble
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Beware of psycho-acoustics
when using the butt-dyno... a more aggressive exhaust
note has a tendency to
distort reality when it comes to performance gains.
Anyone who
"upgraded" their normally aspirated S3 with a free-flowing
exhaust
system can probably relate. If you don't have access to a dyno,
then use a
G-Tech! Whether or not you think it's accurate, it IS
consistent, which is all
you need to compare performance before and after an
upgrade.
This thread gets back to the same old story that has been
repeated countless
times on this list (see the archives)... significant
performance gains will not
be realized through a partial exhaust system
upgrade! To quote what Roger
posted earlier:
> Three cars,
two with different downpipes and one with stock setup showed
> zero
difference on the dyno. The real restrictors are the pre-cats and
> then
the downpipe starts to count. Again, it's the combination of
gutted
> pre-cats, downpipe, high flow cat or testpipe, larger piping to
the rear,
> better y to the mufflers and good mufflers that play the
music.
Also keep in mind that there is more to a successful exhaust
upgrade than just
slapping a giant, straight-through pipe on the
turbos. Pipe diameter plays an
important role in exhaust heat
retention, flow speed, density, turbulence, etc.
(anyone remember the URL to
that excellent exhaust tutorial?). Also note that
dyno testing
indicates that a reduction in backpressure seems to shift the
torque curve
higher in the rev band (ie- reduces torque at low RPMs), behavior
commonly
seen in normally aspirated systems but somewhat surprising in a
turbo
application (look at the dyno charts and draw your own conclusions if
you
like). Are you willing to sacrifice drivability for extra power
above 6500
RPM? Note that the main shortcoming of the G-Tech is that
unlike a dyno, it
can't show you WHERE the power is better...
:-(
My $.02: concentrate on the fuel system first. This will help
protect your
engine from detonation and lean conditions while offering better
performance for
less money (according to recent posts).
Good luck!
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Please make
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#44
********************
team3s
Tuesday, February 1
2000 Volume 01
: Number
045
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 01 Feb 2000 20:49:41 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Couple questions...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Andrew Burke wrote:
>
>
Thirdly, I realize that some, if not all, of the wheel questions are
>
likely to be covered in the archives... however, I can't seem to find
them
> anywhere. Could someone post to the list the address at which
we can
> access them? (I can't be the only one in the dark about
this...)
Had you checked the archives (JUST KIDDING! :-) ), you would
have seen the
following note:
On 19 January 2000, Bob Forrest
wrote:
>
> All,
>
> I am in the process of moving our
archive files (zip files of the
> digests, saved by month) from the old
server to our new one. The
> process was interrupted by a glitch,
but we hope to have it
> corrected shortly. Only the latest four zip
files were moved (Sept,
> Oct, Nov, Dec, totalling 1.2 MB) and they ARE
available at the
> following URLs:
>
>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/archive/9909.zip>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/archive/9910.zip>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/archive/9911.zip>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/archive/9912.zip>
> Sorry for the inconvenience. Give me a day or two for the
others...
>
> Regards,
>
> Forrest
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Please make sure
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and all other important info is at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 13:21:08
-0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <
amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Hi Team,
Can someone please
clarify something for me.. im a bit
confused about wheel offset.
1) If
one make of wheel with offset +40 offset fit our
TT, does that mean all make
of wheel with that same
offset will fit our car?? (same size wheel of
course)
2) If I need more brake clearance, the offset should
be a
lower #?? Example: +40 to a +30 for more brake
clearance?
Thanx in
advance!!
George
'92 RT
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 13:47:00
-0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
I belive that offset is a measure of
where the wheel hub sits, as opposed to
where the tire centerline
sits.
An offset by no means guarantees you will clear rotors, as
spoke/web design can
intrude into the area currently occupied by your
caliper.
Been there, ate up a wheel doing it. Good news is the
vendor got me a new wheel
because they 'thought' it would fit.
*heh*
- -----Original Message-----
From: George Kuo [
mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 01, 2000 1:21 PM
To: Team3SI
Subject: Team3S: Wheel
offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Hi Team,
Can someone please clarify
something for me.. im a bit
confused about wheel offset.
1) If one
make of wheel with offset +40 offset fit our
TT, does that mean all make of
wheel with that same
offset will fit our car?? (same size wheel of
course)
2) If I need more brake clearance, the offset should
be a
lower #?? Example: +40 to a +30 for more brake
clearance?
Thanx in
advance!!
George
'92 RT
TT
__________________________________________________
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*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S list
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 14:01:58
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
There are two clearances we are
concerned with. One is brake caliper clearance,
the other is clearance
between the inside edge of the tire and the lower spring
perch.
Brake
calipers require enough clearance to the inside rim diameter as well
as
clearance to the rim spokes. Decreasing wheel offset will definitely
increase
clearance to the spokes, and depending on the inside wheel geometry
may also
increase clearance to the inside wheel diameter too. Since
different wheels are
made differently, you can't assume that an offset that
works on one brand will
work on another.
Clearance from the inside
edge of the tire to the spring perch is easier. As
the offset is
decreased, clearance is increased. This clearance relationship
between
rim width and offset should be the same between different brands.
I hope
that clarifies more than it confuses ;),
Ken
> Can someone please
clarify something for me.. im a bit
> confused about wheel offset.
>
> 1) If one make of wheel with offset +40 offset fit our
> TT, does
that mean all make of wheel with that same
> offset will fit our car??
(same size wheel of course)
>
> 2) If I need more brake clearance,
the offset should
> be a lower #?? Example: +40 to a +30 for more
brake
> clearance?
- --
If you're not the lead car, your view
never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 17:16:02
-0500
From: "Bob Rand" <
rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Fluids
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
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Hey Guys, The other day someone mentioned adding a
quart of synthetic =
gear oil to the tranny and the syncros and shifting were
as smooth as =
silk. I lost my copy of this and am interested. Has
anyone discovered =
the magic formula for the tranny. Getting ready to
change fluids so =
would like advice and input.
Thanks Bob
93
Stealth TT
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hey
Guys, The other day someone =
mentioned=20
adding a quart of
synthetic gear oil to the tranny and the syncros and =
shifting=20
were as
smooth as silk. I lost my copy of this and am interested.
=
Has=20
anyone discovered the magic formula for the tranny.
Getting ready =
to=20
change fluids so would like advice and
input.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial>Thanks Bob</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial>93 Stealth
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 14:42:13
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fluids
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
A few months ago, someone mentioned that they added 2
bottles of Slick50 manual
transmission treatment to their Getrag. I
have done this too. I am currentlly
running 2 bottles of Slick50 Manual
Transmission Treatment and topped off with
Redline MT90-GL4. Seems to
work fine, but work miracles? I don't think so.
YMMV,
Ken
> Hey
Guys, The other day someone mentioned adding a quart of synthetic
gear
> oil to the tranny and the syncros and shifting were as smooth as
silk. I lost
> my copy of this and am interested. Has anyone
discovered the magic formula for
> the tranny. Getting ready to
change fluids so would like advice and input.
- --
If you're not the
lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:48:38
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Different types of car paint
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
What are the types of car paint, brands and
types (lacquer, etc.)?
I know there are many kinds, but could someone
please elaborate. My car is
ready to be painted, and I need to know
what type of paint works best and in
what conditions.
If you can
provide me with information, please also tell me why which types
do what
best. I am in need of a fairly quick drying paint.
Cody
http://members.tripod.com/readersrides***
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 16:39:07
-0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Different types of car paint
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Id like to hear the answers too, but be
prepared to know that any high
quality paint wont be a one-day kinda dry that
you would want to take
outside...
My new Celica has paint exactly 24
days old on it..and only recently has the
paint applied in Japan NOT felt
slightly rubbery.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
To:
"starnet" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"dragnet" <
stealth@DragNet.Com>;
"Team3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 01, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: Different types of car
paint
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> What are the types of car paint, brands and
types (lacquer, etc.)?
>
> I know there are many kinds, but could
someone please elaborate. My car
is
> ready to be painted, and I
need to know what type of paint works best and
in
> what
conditions.
>
> If you can provide me with information, please also
tell me why which
types
> do what best. I am in need of a fairly
quick drying paint.
>
> Cody
>
http://members.tripod.com/readersrides>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 19:18:38
-0600
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Different types of car paint
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
The two most common automotive finishes
used now are Enamel and Acrylic
Urethane. Enamel is not quite as hard
as the Urethane paints, but it
resists chipping a little better. I feel
it fades quicker though (painfully
obvious on early 90s Japanese
cars).
I'm not sure what the rubbery feeling on the Celica would
be??? Epoxy of
some kind? Epoxy is normally used in high grade
primers, but you have to
use a top coat of some kind. Not sure what to
think there.
For those that are wondering, I don't think they have used
lacquer since the
70s, but I could be wrong.
Hope this helps.
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From:
Geoff Mohler [
SMTP:gemohler@tgn.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
February 01, 2000 6:39 PM
To: cody; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Different
types of car paint
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Id like to hear the answers too, but be prepared to
know that any
high
quality paint wont be a one-day kinda dry that you
would want to
take
outside...
My new Celica has paint exactly 24
days old on it..and only recently
has the
paint applied in Japan NOT felt
slightly rubbery.
----- Original Message -----
From: "cody"
<
overclck@flash.net>
To:
"starnet" <
stealth@starnet.net>;
"dragnet"
<
stealth@DragNet.Com>;
"Team3S"
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Tuesday, February 01, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: Different types of car
paint
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> What are the types of car paint, brands and
types (lacquer, etc.)?
>
> I know there are many kinds, but could
someone please elaborate.
My car
is
> ready to be painted, and I
need to know what type of paint works
best and
in
> what
conditions.
>
> If you can provide me with information, please also
tell me why
which
types
> do what best. I am in need of a
fairly quick drying paint.
>
> Cody
>
http://members.tripod.com/readersrides>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#45
********************
team3s
Tuesday, February 1
2000 Volume 01
: Number
046
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:29:53 +1300
From: "David Dickinson" <
david.dickinson@dfl.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno Tune info
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I am trying to have my Pearl White 1998 GTO, turbo, 6
speed (ex Japan) =
Dyno tuned. My chap asked some simple questions I was
unable to answer, =
can anybody help?
He wants to
know,
1. gear ratio in 6th gear
2.
diff ratio`s
3. top revs of car
4. and
my own question of.... what results should I expect from him
=
from a normally expired car of 8,000 Kilometres with the cats knocked
=
out (recently).
Thanks for any help received for my somewhat naive
questions=20
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Transitional//EN">
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<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
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5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am trying to have my
Pearl White 1998 GTO, turbo, =
6 speed=20
(ex Japan) Dyno
tuned.</FONT><FONT size=3D2> My chap asked some
=
simple=20
questions I was unable to answer, can anybody
help?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>He wants to
know,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>1. gear ratio in 6th
=
gear</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>2. diff
ratio`s</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>3. top revs of
=
car</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>4. and my own question
=
of.... =20
what results should I expect from him from
a normally expired car of =
8,000=20
Kilometres with the cats knocked out
(recently).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks for any help received for my somewhat naive
=
questions=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 23:40:50
EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
In a message dated 00-02-01 16:21:45
EST, you write:
<< Hi Team,
Can someone please clarify
something for me.. im a bit
confused about wheel offset.
1) If one
make of wheel with offset +40 offset fit our
TT, does that mean all make of
wheel with that same
offset will fit our car?? (same size wheel of
course)
Nope! As one of the other posts mentions, you need to clear both
the brake
calipers and the shock strut. Clearing the brake calipers depends
upon the
offset AND the placement of the "spokes" on the wheel.
For our cars (mine is
'91 3000GT VR4), You need a wheel that has the
"spokes" very far outboard on
the wheel to clear the calipers.
Very few aftermarket wheels will do this.
I've been researching this
whole wheel thing for about 4 or 5 months now,
trying to find a wheel style
that I like and that will fit our cars. The BEST
place to shop for wheels is
Tirerack. Check them out at
www.tirerack.com. You
can do a wheel
search by vehicle type, and see what wheels will fit your car.
Tirerack
is really on the ball. Very impressive. They are the only company
that will
tell you for sure what wheels do and do not fit. For example,
notice that
their online tire search gives you the option of selecting wheels
for the
base Stealth, Stealth R/T, and the Stealth R/T turbo. A wheel that
fits the
base Stealth may not fit the R/T Turbo since the brake calipers are
different. Tirerack is the only place I've found that keeps track of this: a
wheel search for the base Stealth will give you probably 20-30 wheels, while
the Stealth R/T turbo matches with only 7 wheels.
2) If I need
more brake clearance, the offset should
be a lower #?? Example: +40 to a +30
for more brake
clearance?
Generally this is true. A smaller offset
will place the wheel further
outboard than a larger offset. Most wheels that
fit our car have a smaller
offset than stock to clear the calipers. Be
careful with selecting wheels
with a very small offset. This will put your
wheels too far outboard which
can add stress to your suspension and may
change the car's handling qualities.
When selecing a wheel I tried to
stay as close to a stock offset of 46mm as
possible. Here is where Tirerack
is really on the ball again - they can tell
you what offset is required for
each wheel that comes up in their wheel
search. Here is what I found when I
called them for 17" rims for my car:
Fittipaldi Argus 17X9
37mm offset
Mille Miglia Emotion 17x8 35mm offset
TRM
Sniper 17x9 45mm offset (closest I've found to
stock)
OZ competition 17x8.5 30mm
Fittipaldi
polaris 17x8 40mm
These are the same wheels that will
fit your car. There were two other wheels
I didn't check on - you could call
tirerack if you are interested in them.
I didn't really care for the
style of any of these wheels. I ended up going
with Enkei RP01 17x9 with a
42mm offset. Unfortunately you have to deal with
Discount tire direct to get
these wheels - what a miserable experience! I
talked to two different sales
dudes at Discount Tire - they couldn't agree as
to what the offset should
be. So I had a local Discount Tire Direct outlet
store order one to test fit
- well they ordered the wrong one, and then they
didn't have the right
hardware to mount the correct one when it came in,
then... well it is a long
story.
You can look at these rims at
www.discounttiredirect.com (I think
that is
right). If you end up buying some of these the correct offset is
42mm - don't
let any of the goofballs at Discount Tire Direct tell you
otherwise.
Hope this helps!
Paul Klusman
p.s. You could
also look into Blitz racing wheels. Talk to Stillen about
getting some of
these. Buddy of mine has some 18" and they are BEAUTIFUL but
$$$.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 23:05:22
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
>I've been researching this whole
wheel thing for about 4 or 5 months now,
>trying to find a wheel style
that I like and that will fit our cars. The
BEST
>place to shop for
wheels is Tirerack. Check them out at
www.tirerack.com.
You
>can do a
wheel search by vehicle type, and see what wheels will fit
your
car.<snip> Tirerack is really on the ball. Very impressive. They
are the
only company
>that will tell you for sure what wheels do and
do not fit.
I agree with Paul K, but it's best to still be very careful.
Not all the wheels that fit are suitable for racing or autocrossing.
Some
of the pretty wheels are downright fragile.
If all you want to do is
look pretty, then anything that fits will do. But
since this is the 3S list,
I assume you have something more serious in mind
than just cruising the
Avenue.
I talked to a racer dude at Tirerack, and discovered that the
only suitable
wheels -- Oz and Fittipaldi, as I recall -- were too dang
expensive for
curb banging, so I got a spare set of stock wheels for my
racing tires from
Arrow Tire.
I suggest that when you call
Tirerack, ask to speak to someone who knows
about racing. The guy who
takes your call probably will be the owner, who
is very knowledgeable (wish I
could remember his name).
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>
For example,
>notice that their online tire search gives you the option
of selecting
wheels
>for the base Stealth, Stealth R/T, and the
Stealth R/T turbo. A wheel that
>fits the base Stealth may not fit the
R/T Turbo since the brake calipers are
>different. Tirerack is the only
place I've found that keeps track of this: a
>wheel search for the base
Stealth will give you probably 20-30 wheels, while
>the Stealth R/T turbo
matches with only 7 wheels.
>
>
> 2) If I need more brake
clearance, the offset should
> be a lower #?? Example: +40 to a +30 for
more brake
> clearance?
>
>Generally this is true. A smaller
offset will place the wheel further
>outboard than a larger offset. Most
wheels that fit our car have a smaller
>offset than stock to clear the
calipers. Be careful with selecting wheels
>with a very small offset.
This will put your wheels too far outboard which
>can add stress to your
suspension and may change the car's handling
qualities.
>
>When
selecing a wheel I tried to stay as close to a stock offset of 46mm as
>possible. Here is where Tirerack is really on the ball again - they can
tell
>you what offset is required for each wheel that comes up in their
wheel
>search. Here is what I found when I called them for 17" rims
for my car:
>
>Fittipaldi Argus 17X9 37mm offset
>Mille
Miglia Emotion 17x8 35mm offset
>TRM Sniper
17x9 45mm offset (closest I've found to stock)
>OZ
competition 17x8.5 30mm
>Fittipaldi polaris
17x8 40mm
>
>These are the same wheels that will fit
your car. There were two other
wheels
>I didn't check on - you could
call tirerack if you are interested in them.
>
>I didn't really care
for the style of any of these wheels. I ended up going
>with Enkei RP01
17x9 with a 42mm offset. Unfortunately you have to deal with
>Discount
tire direct to get these wheels - what a miserable experience! I
>talked
to two different sales dudes at Discount Tire - they couldn't agree
as
>to what the offset should be. So I had a local Discount Tire Direct
outlet
>store order one to test fit - well they ordered the wrong one,
and then they
>didn't have the right hardware to mount the correct one
when it came in,
>then... well it is a long story.
>
>You
can look at these rims at
www.discounttiredirect.com (I think
that is
>right). If you end up buying some of these the correct offset is
42mm -
don't
>let any of the goofballs at Discount Tire Direct tell
you otherwise.
>
>
>Hope this helps!
>Paul
Klusman
>
>p.s. You could also look into Blitz racing wheels. Talk
to Stillen about
>getting some of these. Buddy of mine has some 18"
and they are BEAUTIFUL but
>$$$.
>
>
>*** Please make
sure you are using the NEW Team3S list address:
>
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subscribe/unsubscribe
and all other important info is at:
>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 23:12:35
-0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <
trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno Tune info
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
6th gear is .59. Final drive ratio is 3.87. The rev
limiter is around
7100. I have no idea what kind of HP you'll put down. I can
guess and
say 250-260...It's weird that he asked for sixth gear, usually you
dyno
a car in the gear closest to 1.00 ratio. 4th gear is .92...Plus
the
wheels would be turning at like 230 MPH at redline in 6th.
Kinda
dangerous!
Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon
David
Dickinson wrote:
> I am trying to have my Pearl White 1998 GTO, turbo,
6 speed (ex Japan)
> Dyno tuned. My chap asked some simple questions I was
unable to
> answer, can anybody help?He wants to know,
1. gear ratio in 6th
> gear2. diff
ratio`s3. top revs of car4. and my own
question
> of.... what results should I expect from him from a
normally expired
> car of 8,000 Kilometres with the cats knocked out
(recently). Thanks
> for any help received for my somewhat naive
questions
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 23:18:35
-0600
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
- ----- parts of Original Message
-----
From: "Merritt" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
I talked to a racer dude at Tirerack, and discovered that the
only
suitable
> wheels -- Oz and Fittipaldi, as I recall -- were too
dang expensive for
> curb banging, so I got a spare set of stock wheels
for my racing tires
from
> Arrow Tire.
Rich,
does
this mean that you have ruled out Volk? I am under the assumption
that
the TE-37 will fit a second gen TT. Please advise if you have
found this to
not be true.
(Yes - I know these are not carried by the Tire
Rack.)
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 21:13:02
-0800
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@tgn.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Wheel offset question...
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> I agree with Paul K, but it's best to still be
very careful.
> Not all the wheels that fit are suitable for racing or
autocrossing. Some
> of the pretty wheels are downright fragile.
>
If all you want to do is look pretty, then anything that fits will do.
But
> since this is the 3S list, I assume you have something more serious
in
mind
> than just cruising the Avenue.
>
> I talked to a
racer dude at Tirerack, and discovered that the only
suitable
> wheels
-- Oz and Fittipaldi, as I recall -- were too dang expensive for
> curb
banging, so I got a spare set of stock wheels for my racing
tires
from
> Arrow Tire.
- ---
I will add to this, stating
that the OZ wheels we used for Autox (they were
extras we had) are all
horribly bent in the inner rounds, and in the hubs
themselves from autox
use.
I would not suggest OZ wheels themselves for performance handling
use on our
cars.
The Gewalts I have
http://www.tgn.net/~gemohler/vr4/home/Dc0023l.JPG
have
proven VERY reliable for some very very extreme performance use.
Theyve
withstood AutoX, and multiple event & driver rallycross use.
I was able to
purchase those pretty economically from
www.carsmetics.com in GA.
Rallycross
is basically a longer Autox out in a field, in this case a cow
pasture..with
dips, holes, bumps and furrows.
Email me privately for more photos, or
non-technical questions please.
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 23:21:36
-0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust vs. Fuel
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for more info.***
Thanks all for the downpipe
advice. Quick mod list: Stillen K&N intake,
Borla exhaust, GReddy
boost meter, Hallman boost controller (suspension=
Intrax and GABs).
After reading Roger's treatise on knock at Team3S FAQ's
it sounds like
exhaust is not the problem. What then is the next move? Fuel
pump and
550cc injectors (plus computer chip)? 15g turbos? Both?
Roger
definitely says we can apply more fuel to no avail without upgraded
turbos.
Sorry for extended newbie queries, but would
rather spend money wisely.
Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
Eternal
Newbie
96 R/T TT
#416
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Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 22:24:51
-0800
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo question
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end for more info.***
Jim Berry wrote:
> Anyone care to
take a shot at describing how the turbos used in our cars
> differ from
one another and what the different designations mean. For
> example: Does
TD04 define the housing and 9B define the impellers ???
> What about the
13G and 15G are they larger impellers or just a more
> aggressive impeller
??? What about clipping --- I assume it changes the
> shape of the
impeller but how ??? Maximum size [ flow ] in the TD04 shell
??
Since it appears no one else has answered this question, I'll
try
and tell you what little I know. I apologize for any
information
which may be incorrect.
Yes, TD04 defines the housing and
9B defines the compressor
wheel.
Stock 9Bs are housed in a plain-jane
TD04 housing.
Moving up to 13G gives you the TD04L housing. This is
a
newer, redesigned housing with an improved water jacket
and some changes
to the bearing. Supposedly, these changes
are worth the small price
increase when you buy 13G or 15G
as opposed to sending your stock 9B housings
to be machined.
Moving up to 15G gives you the TD04LH housing. This
is
just how the TD04L is classified when the housing is machined
out to a
size which can fit the larger 15G compressor wheel.
Moving up to 17G
starts with a TD04L housing (just like the
15G) which is then machined out to
fit the bigger wheel, but
it doesn't have any special classification (like
15G does) as far
as I know.
Actually, those housing designations I
noted above usually just
denote the compressor housings. Turbine
housing names are
usually similar, but it is possible to have quite different
turbine
housings (like the big TD04H which is found on many
Volvo
turbocharged cars, e.g. the T5R). I need more info on
this....
Whether you move up to 13G, 15G, or 17G, the housing must
be
machined to fit the larger wheel. The larger wheel is also
more
"aggressive" insofar as it is able to produce enough airflow
to
maintain higher boost pressures through higher engine speeds
with greater
efficiency (i.e. lower air charge temps from the
compressor).
Clipping
is a process whereby you remove mass from the turbine
wheel in order to
improve efficiency at high turbo rpms. However,
this comes at the
expense of low-end spoolup because the exhaust
gas particles have less mass
on which to act.
As listed on the DSM site posted by Curt, the 9B flows
265
cfm at 15psi. 13G flows 360. Unfortunately, the site does
not
list flow rates for the 15G. I've been told two different
flow
rates for it: 420 cfm and 460 cfm. I haven't been able to
verify
which one is correct. TEC has not measured flow rates for
their
17G turbo, but they do estimate a 10% increase in compressor
eff.
(air temps should be 10% lower other things being equal).
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle
"100 out of 105 on my biology midterm,
woohooo!!!"
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End of team3s V1
#46
********************
