team3s
Thursday, January 27
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
038
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 Jan 2000 14:52:43 -0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Better yet, throw a
container or two of baking soda all over the affected
areas and then spray
off with water...or better yet, mix baking soda and
water and pour slowly
over the area.
Best
Darc
> If it is the battery
leaking, spray water on it. That neutralizes the
acid.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:17:37
-0800 (PST)
From: "Chad Beeder (Syzygy)" <
syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead? <- Battery
Probs?
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
On Wed, 26 Jan 2000, Kyle Meyer wrote:
> Sounds
like the clicking is the starter/starter solenoid, and that means the
>
battery may be low. If you have stuff dripping out around the right
front
> wheelwell, that's right where the battery is...
Kyle,
thanks for your input. The car is at the dealership now...
I'd
tend to agree with the battery idea, except that there is clicking
noise
coming from the engine when you try to start it too. Also, the
stuff that
was dripping is most certainly oil of some type. I saw the
rainbow
patterns in the puddle it made on the ground.
Hard to tell
exactly how much oil dripped out, since it was on the ground.
I'd say maybe a
cup or two. It kept dripping for a while after I shut off
the engine,
but eventually stopped.
Dealer says they will look at it tomorrow.
I hope this doesn't end up
costing a fortune.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:24:17
EST
From: "Dg B" <
dbretton@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Desperately seeking a good mechanic
***This is the NEW Team3S
list. See message end for more info.***
Hi folks!
I am now at wits' end. I cannot find a good suspension mechanic here in
the Mass/NE area, and am having trouble with my Stealth.
I don't have the
time (or warm facilities) to work on the car right now.
If any of you can
recommend a good suspension mechanic in the NE area who
can work on an
aftermarket suspension w/out fear, PLEASE let me know. I'm
desperate!
TIA!
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:27:28
-0800
From: "Mohler, Jeff" <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This
is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Water
Neutralizes acid. Thats neat.
It'll definitly thin it out, but
water doesnt neutralize any acids or base
compouinds.
Thinned out
battery acid becomes muratic acid..mostly a new name for a thinner
mix of
HCl.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Meyer [
mailto:kyle@logicaldirection.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:41 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is
the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Sounds like
the clicking is the starter/starter solenoid, and that means the
battery may
be low. If you have stuff dripping out around the right front
wheelwell,
that's right where the battery is... I just had a battery go bad
the other
day and it sprayed acid all over my intake piping, transmission,
side of the
engine, the motor mounts, and the frame (eating all the paint
off in the
process).
If it is the battery leaking, spray water on it. That
neutralizes the acid.
- -Kyle
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chad Beeder
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:55 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
As I turned the
key to start my car this morning, I heard a loud *clunk*, so
I got out and
looked at the car and noticed there was oil (or maybe
transmission fluid)
dripping from near the right front wheel well. So I
shut the car off
and now it won't start at all. When I turn the key I just
get a loud
repeating clicking sound (about 4-5 times a second) and it
won't
crank.
Now, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to the mechanics
of cars. I called
the dealer and they tell me that really the only
thing in the front right is
the transmission, so I'm wondering if my
transmission has blown up.
I'm waiting for a tow to the dealer now.
Anyone had this happen before?
I hadn't really noticed any tranny
problems up 'til now other than the usual
synchro stuff (which I'd been
mostly avoiding rev-matching on shifts) and a
bit of a lurch sometimes when
going from a coast to hitting the gas (though
I've heard this isn't uncommon
on our cars either). The only other thing is
that I'd noticed that when
the car was cold in the morning, and I had it
sitting in neutral, I'd get a
sort of repetitive grinding sound that went
away if I pushed the clutch
in.
Have I fallen victim to the dreaded Getrag problems? Ack, I
really didn't
want to spend a few thousand on a new tranny right now...
:-( I was hoping
not to have to replace my transmission until the new
improved ones were
available that Jack Tertadian is working
on...
Thanks,
Chad
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:59:14
-0800
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Optimum Tire Pressure
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Always refer to the directions on the
tire.
Sam
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Merlin916@aol.com <
Merlin916@aol.com>
To: Stealth-3000GT
<
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Monday, January 24, 2000 7:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Optimum Tire
Pressure
>***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more
info.***
>
>
> Anyone know what the
optimum tire pressure would be in cold weather
when
>attempting speeds
over 100mph? I noticed in the manual that its
reccomended
>to add
pressure when these speeds are desired, but the previous owner of my
>car
for some reason removed the sticker on the driver door that states
the
>normal optimum pressure. I have ZR-X 245/45 ZR17's.
According to the
>sidewall, the max load is 44psi. So where do I
want to be?
>
>Joe
>
>93'
RT/TT
>
>
>*** Please make sure you are using the NEW Team3S
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>
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>
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:30:31
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Optimum Tire Pressure
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Sam, others;
The directions are
rarely imprinted on a tire. Only a maximum pressure, and
usually a
statement that says "Do not exceed XX psi when mounting" I
have
personally witnessed over 100 psi in a 18" tire when being mounted
(very
scary being close to the tire when it finally pops out)
Anyways,
technically, you are supposed to go with what the car manual
says. But in
reality, trying different pressures is the best
way...
Cody
Always refer to the directions on the
tire.
Sam
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 21:12:17
-0600
From: wizards <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
That's right,
Jeff! And when it thins it out, or washes it off, it may
get
washed onto something else that you don't really want acid to
touch.
Darcy's idea of neutralizing it first with baking soda (a mild
base) is a
better suggestion.
Greg
"Mohler, Jeff"
wrote:
>
>
> Water Neutralizes acid. Thats
neat.
>
> It'll definitly thin it out, but water doesnt neutralize
any acids or base
> compouinds.
>
> Thinned out battery acid
becomes muratic acid..mostly a new name for a thinner
> mix of
HCl.
>
>
*** Please make sure you are using the NEW
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team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubscribe/unsubscribe
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 22:39:55
-0500
From: Rick <
rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale:Factory Service Manuals
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
Hey gang,
Just a quick
reminder that if anyone is interested, I have some factory
service manuals
for sale for our cars. I have 2 sets left of the 93
Stealth (covers
both turbo and non-turbo models) and 2 sets of the
Laser/Talon manuals for
sale. I would take $30 for each set. They are
brand new in the
plastic (from Mopar) and I think they sell for like $50 or
$60 from the
dealer. These are brand spanking new. These manuals are
NOT
chilton manuals. These are factory Mopar Service
manuals.
***Please respond privately if interested.***
Thanks!
"1 BAD RT"
94 R/T turbo
Pearl Yellow 6
speed
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:25:00
+1300
From: "B Collett" <
hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Flow Meter Removal
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I am installing a new computer for my TT 3000GT and want
to remove my =
Air Flow meter.=20
Does it control anythimg alse
important in my car that will be effected =
if I remove
it??
Thanks=20
Henry