team3s
Wednesday, January 26
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
037
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:19:40 EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Radio help needed
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more info.***
No, Dave, the ECU is in a different location. If
the car has the premium
sound with CD player, which I assume it does,
it has a separate amp. It is
mounted to the floor. If you put
your foot on the gas pedal, then slide it
over to the right side kick panel,
it's right there. When I upgraded my
stereo in my 91 Stealth TT, I
took the radio out (which was still good) and
tried to install it in another
of my cars. I got no sound. Went looking,
found the amp, rewired
it, and installed the radio.
JOe 91TT
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:35:00
-0800
From: "Darcy" <
w.c.e@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle
stepper motor/speed controller
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Can you describe the symptoms of the
problem so it will be on file for
future members who experience the symptoms
and are not certain what the
problem is. This thread should then be complete
(symptom, diagnosis,
solution, and the cheapest outlet to buy the
part)
Best
Darc
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Steve Saeedi" <
saeedi@netcom.com>
To: "Bob
Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Cc: "'Team
3S'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, January 24, 2000 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Idle stepper
motor/speed controller
> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
>
>
> At 5:44 PM -0800 1/24/00,
Bob Forrest wrote:
> >***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> >
> >
> >{Posted for Alan
Monarchi}
> >
> >From: "Alan Monarchi " <
gangus@vnet.ibm.com>
>
>
> >Folks,
> > I'm pretty sure that my Idle stepper
motor (or
> >Idle Speed controller, ISC, I have heard it
referred
> >to as both) has gone bad. Is this an
easy
> >enough procedure for your average do-it-yourselfer
?
>
> Yes, this went out on my car a long time ago. It is such an
easy task that
I was able to complete it in about 20 minutes. The parts
I recall came to
about $270-something. All the gaskets and things you need
for replacement
are included with the idle stepper motor box.
>
>
- Steve
>
> >
> >Where is it located ? Near the
throttle body ?
> >Are there any other gaskets I might need to
replace
> >when I replace the idle stepper motor ?
> >
>
>Thanks,
> >Al
> >92 Stealth ES
> >
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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>
>
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> >
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>
>
>
> *** Please make sure you are using the NEW
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>
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 23:07:02
-0500
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Then link... Mitsu to stop producing cars???
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Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
http://www.busybeetoys.com/SCOOP/scoop-99-12-13.htmSorry,
here's the link... Check out the bottom story about the
Lancer.
Jason
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:12:09
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Radio help needed
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
+> No, Dave, the ECU is in a
different location. If the car has the premium
+> sound with CD
player, which I assume it does, it has a separate amp. It
is
+> mounted to the floor. If you put your foot on the gas
pedal, then slide it
+> over to the right side kick panel, it's right
there. When I upgraded my
+> stereo in my 91 Stealth TT, I took the
radio out (which was still good) and
+> tried to install it in another of
my cars. I got no sound. Went looking,
+> found the amp,
rewired it, and installed the radio.
+>
+> JOe
91TT
Gotcha.. but, as far as the SRS "brain" goes (not
the ECU), it _is_ under
the armrest part of the console.. I guess I
wasn't clear in referring to
the "center" console.. just
wanted to clarify in case others wondered..
Dave
95 Black
3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
- --------
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 22:03:27
-0700
From: "CORY ESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intrax Springs and GAB struts
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
Just a quick note on
my new Intrax springs and GAB struts.
Intrax Springs
($220) were supposed to drop the car 1.75 inches. I'm not
a suspension guru
(or any other kind of guru, for that matter), but the
total car drop
(measured from the side door panel) was close to 2.5 inches.
Wheel well gap
went from 2.75 inches to just under two inches front and
back. It may
be interesting to note that my car had a little stink-bug
stance before the
replacement, but now feels flat to the road. I need to
adjust the
headlights as a result. Fit and finish are excellent for the
springs
with no custom fit. Rating: Excellent.
I'm fond of
GABs from auto-xing in my 240sx and haven't had an
opportunity to fine tune
the damping and rebound just yet. The rears are
audible from the
cockpit. The GABs needed a little help mounting in the
rear and the
upper shock post was about 9/16" and the stock bushing and
upper washer
are about 5/16". I'm thinking that I may have to take apart
the
setup and see if I can't use a extra rubber washer or two to keep the
post
from transmitting sound to the cabin.
Any helpful opinions
or comments are welcome.
Cheers,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
#416
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------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 21:03:14
-0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake and/or exhaust valves
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
All,
Has anyone recently (or
even not recently) bought any valves? I think I may
need 1 or 2 or
24. I just want a ballpark figure so that I have some idea
what I may
have to spend to get my car back on the road. Wrenchead.com does
not
list any valves for my car.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91
R/T (now an official landmark in Abbotsford)
Vancouver, BC
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:02:35
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Intake and/or exhaust valves
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
This is the offer I got from Talahasse
Mitsubishi (online)
MD168241 EX Valve $14.80
MD172315 IN Valve $
11.86
I got a head with bent valves for free so teh decision to buy 24
valves was
easy !
The work will be much more costly !
> Has
anyone recently (or even not recently) bought any valves? I think
I
may
> need 1 or 2 or 24. I just want a ballpark figure so that
I have some idea
> what I may have to spend to get my car back on the
road.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 01:13:24
-0800
From:
gil_lee@usa.netSubject:
Team3S: AVC-R tuning
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for
more info.***
Just installed (professionally) the AVC-R (w/LCD) in my
92 VR4 and it's
quite an awesome unit. My car is all stock except for
the AVC and K&N FIPK,
currently it is set for 1.00 BAR, 63% duty.
It's been running great and the
power gain is very noticeable. I have a
few questions about tuning it
however.
I've been relying on the
learning function to tune it. If I set the duty
too high, it will show
**** in the duty cycle setup, so I step down 1% until
it goes away. I'm
sure tuning is much more complex than this, the installer
initially setup .80
and 60% for balanced boost across the range and 1.00 and
55% for top end
power. After some tuning, I just leave it at 1.00 and 63%
all the
time. I've hit boost as high as 1.08 and normally see it get in the
.9
range, the goal is to set it to provide optimal (maximum allowed
without
damaging the engine) boost. Now, what is the proper way to tune
this?
My feedback/gear settings are at 3 across the board, does that
sound right?
What is the best NePoint (rpm) setttings? I'm running
2500, 3500, 4000,
4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500
What RPM does the turbo
really start to work?
Has anyone installed the scramble
switch?
Should I get new NGK plugs gapped at .034"?
I was
hoping someone with a similar setup can post all their AVC settings so
we can
compare.
According to this page by a fellow list member:
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.htmlwith
stock exhaust, he hit 400+HP with just the AVC, K&N FIPK, Blitz BOV!
Even
though he says the stock BOV can handle up to 1.1 BAR, I'm getting the
Apex
dual chamber BOV anyway.
some interesting notes about
exhausts:
"Many folks feel that the stock exhaust system is too
restrictive and should
be replaced with an aftermarket system. However,
dyno testing (see below)
shows that the stock exhaust actually flows quite
well and that such an
investment is not necessary unless boost is increased
drastically."
"An aftermarket exhaust system results in little
to no horsepower increase w
hen running boost pressure levels that the stock
engine and fuel delivery
system can support without detonation. An
exhaust system moves the torque
curve higher in the RPM range, sacrificing
torque in the lower RPMs where
the car is driven most frequently and
marginally extending torque into the
RPMs where the stock injectors are
already maxed out. "
so I guess an aftermarket exhaust is pretty
useless unless you're going for
"drastic" boost increase (over 1.0
BAR) in which case you'll need to
overhaul the entire fuel system and exhaust
system which will sacrifice low
RPM performance for top end
power.
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:49:02
EST
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Radio help needed
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
You are correct. The SRS brain is
under the armrest part of the console.
Sorry for the ambiguity.
I should have used the proper terminology in the
first place!
Joe 91
TT
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:19:16
-0700
From: "CESKELSEN" <
CESKELSEN@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intrax Springs and GAB struts
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
GABs cost 149 each for the fronts
and 119 each for the rears from Alamo
Motorsports. While the math
doesn't look right, that is the way the car
turned out. The whole car
dropped lower than expected, which I like, the
gap was a bit of a
disappointment. It may just be a matter of
settling.
Cheers,
Cory
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
To: CORY
ESKELSEN <
ceskelsen@msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday,
January 25, 2000 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Intrax Springs and GAB
struts
> CORY ESKELSEN wrote:
>
> > Just a quick
note on my new Intrax springs and GAB struts.
>
> Intrax Springs ($220) were supposed to drop the car
1.75 inches. I'm
not
> > a suspension guru (or any other kind of
guru, for that matter), but the
> > total car drop (measured from the
side door panel) was close to 2.5
inches.
> > Wheel well gap went
from 2.75 inches to just under two inches front and
> >
back.
>
> Ummm, that math doesn't seem to make
sense...
>
> If the Intraxes dropped you ~2.5" and your wheel
well gap was
> 2.75" then shouldn't your new wheel well gap be
~0.25"?
>
> How much did the GABs cost, and where did you buy
them?
>
> --Errin Humphrey
> Seattle,
WA
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:54:50
-0800
From: "Chad Beeder" <
syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
As I turned the key to
start my car this morning, I heard a loud *clunk*, so
I got out and looked at
the car and noticed there was oil (or maybe
transmission fluid) dripping from
near the right front wheel well. So I
shut the car off and now it won't
start at all. When I turn the key I just
get a loud repeating clicking
sound (about 4-5 times a second) and it won't
crank.
Now, I'm pretty
clueless when it comes to the mechanics of cars. I called
the dealer
and they tell me that really the only thing in the front right is
the
transmission, so I'm wondering if my transmission has blown up.
I'm
waiting for a tow to the dealer now. Anyone had this happen
before?
I hadn't really noticed any tranny problems up 'til now other
than the usual
synchro stuff (which I'd been mostly avoiding rev-matching on
shifts) and a
bit of a lurch sometimes when going from a coast to hitting the
gas (though
I've heard this isn't uncommon on our cars either). The
only other thing is
that I'd noticed that when the car was cold in the
morning, and I had it
sitting in neutral, I'd get a sort of repetitive
grinding sound that went
away if I pushed the clutch in.
Have I fallen
victim to the dreaded Getrag problems? Ack, I really didn't
want to
spend a few thousand on a new tranny right now... :-( I was
hoping
not to have to replace my transmission until the new improved ones
were
available that Jack Tertadian is working
on...
Thanks,
Chad
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:40:40
-0600
From: "Kyle Meyer" <
kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This
is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Sounds like
the clicking is the starter/starter solenoid, and that means the
battery may
be low. If you have stuff dripping out around the right front
wheelwell,
that's right where the battery is... I just had a battery go bad
the other
day and it sprayed acid all over my intake piping, transmission,
side of the
engine, the motor mounts, and the frame (eating all the paint
off in the
process).
If it is the battery leaking, spray water on it. That
neutralizes the acid.
- -Kyle
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Chad Beeder
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 2:55 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Ack! Loud clunk, car won't start, tranny dead?
***This is the
NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
As I turned the
key to start my car this morning, I heard a loud *clunk*, so
I got out and
looked at the car and noticed there was oil (or maybe
transmission fluid)
dripping from near the right front wheel well. So I
shut the car off
and now it won't start at all. When I turn the key I just
get a loud
repeating clicking sound (about 4-5 times a second) and it
won't
crank.
Now, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to the mechanics
of cars. I called
the dealer and they tell me that really the only
thing in the front right is
the transmission, so I'm wondering if my
transmission has blown up.
I'm waiting for a tow to the dealer now.
Anyone had this happen before?
I hadn't really noticed any tranny
problems up 'til now other than the usual
synchro stuff (which I'd been
mostly avoiding rev-matching on shifts) and a
bit of a lurch sometimes when
going from a coast to hitting the gas (though
I've heard this isn't uncommon
on our cars either). The only other thing is
that I'd noticed that when
the car was cold in the morning, and I had it
sitting in neutral, I'd get a
sort of repetitive grinding sound that went
away if I pushed the clutch
in.
Have I fallen victim to the dreaded Getrag problems? Ack, I
really didn't
want to spend a few thousand on a new tranny right now...
:-( I was hoping
not to have to replace my transmission until the new
improved ones were
available that Jack Tertadian is working
on...
Thanks,
Chad
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#37
********************