team3s            Tuesday, January 25 2000            Volume 01 : Number 036




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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:38:33 -0600
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
Subject: Team3S: Noise...

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I'm hearing what sounds like kind of a rattling when I've started my car
lately in the cold, after running for a fair amount of time it goes
away, but it doesn't seem like it should be there at all

Any help?
- --Rich



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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:43:31 EST
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Optimum  Tire Pressure

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     Anyone know what the optimum tire pressure would be in cold weather when
attempting speeds over 100mph?  I noticed in the manual that its reccomended
to add pressure when these speeds are desired, but the previous owner of my
car for some reason removed the sticker on the driver door that states the
normal optimum pressure.  I have ZR-X  245/45 ZR17's.  According to the
sidewall, the max load is 44psi.  So where do I want to be?

Joe

93' RT/TT


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Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 20:08:27 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Optimum  Tire Pressure

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- -----Original Message-----From: Merlin916@aol.com
<Merlin916@aol.com>
>     Anyone know what the optimum tire pressure would be in cold
weather when
>attempting speeds over 100mph?  I noticed in the manual that its
reccomended
>to add pressure when these speeds are desired, but the previous
owner of my
>car for some reason removed the sticker on the driver door that
states the
>normal optimum pressure.  I have ZR-X  245/45 ZR17's.  According to
the
>sidewall, the max load is 44psi.  So where do I want to be?


Those numbers are guides.  I determined my best 'handling' inflation
by trial and error...  My standard inflation for my stock tires
(GSC's) was 37F/31R, but at speed I ran 42F/36R.  With my 'drivin'
tires' (Nitto Extreme Performance 450s) my standard inflation is
43F/37R.  Where I live, I drive everywhere over 80 (to 120), so for
highway speeds I use 46F/40R; and I use the same setting during the
rainy season (2" in 12 hours today) for any speed, since
harder/thinner tires hydroplane less.

But every tire/weight/dynamic is different from car to car!  The
only way to know what's right for you is to test what works for your
combination.  Start at 50F/46R and drive at 100, see how it feels.
Then go to 46F/42R, then 42/38, then 38/34.  My best guess is that
the dynamic at 100+ will find you liking one of the upper settings.

***Note:  I use a Front/Rear difference of 6 lbs because I have a
FWD Stealth NT.  With AWD, a closer spread is usually more
appropriate.***

Best,

Forrest




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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 11:56:04 +0100
From: "RG" <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads...

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Why not getting the R4s from Porterfield directly. Seems to be good stuff for a decent price.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> Guys, I need some recommends for pads for a  94 vr4 when you
> check-out
> carparts.com there are like 5 different manufactures with 10
> different
> type of materials for the pads. The OEM ones are organic and I like
> the
> way the brakes feel  stock. any input??



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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 07:00:40 EST
From: Mrlove7325@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:Noise

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Just a guess,but it sounds maybe like your lifters.Mine started ticking
awhile back when it was cold,now its pretty much all the time.                 
                                                                               
                                    Chris,93,3000GT


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 10:04:00 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Noise...

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One possibility might be the timing belt pulley bearings and accessory belt
pulley bearings.  How long ago was your last 60K service?  Did you replace
pulleys during the last service?

On my 120K service, I replaced all pulleys (& bearings).  That got rid of a lot
of noise even though the pulley bearings appeared OK upon inspection.

Other possibilities might be water pump bearings, alternator bearings, or AC
compressor bearings.

Try the 'wooden stick to the ear' method to isolate the location of the noise.

Good luck,
Ken

> I'm hearing what sounds like kind of a rattling when I've started my car
> lately in the cold, after running for a fair amount of time it goes
> away, but it doesn't seem like it should be there at all

- --
If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:17:10 -0500
From: Kermit Burroughs <mymach5@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Noise...

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> > I'm hearing what sounds like kind of a rattling when I've started my car
> > lately in the cold, after running for a fair amount of time it goes
> > away, but it doesn't seem like it should be there at all

There are several people who have had a rattling that went away when the clutch is
depressed.  Seems to manifest itself in the winter as well.

I don't remember now if you said you had a stick or auto.

Just a thought
- --
**************
Kermit Burroughs
MyMach5@mindspring.com
IRC - MyMach5
IM - MifuneMoto

"Revolution starts at home,
preferably in the bathroom mirror"




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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:06:50 -0800
From: Jim Watkins <jwatkins@terayon.com>
Subject: Team3S: S-AVCR setup

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I'm working on installation and setup of the new S-AVCR unit and ran into a
couple of issues.  The things I have done so far:
1)  Install K&N FIPK (done 4 months ago)
2)  Regap all NGK plugs from original .040 to .034
3)  Mount Apexi solonoid by drilling/tapping into frame near K&N ( a metric
M5 with 0.8 pitch is needed to match the screws in the Apexi kit)
4)  Mount Apexi pressure sensor by drilling/tapping into firewall
5)  Install the wire harness through the firewall (punching through that
grommet almost cost me a finger!)
6)  Cut the purge control vacuum line from the back of the plenum and
install a Tee.  Connect the Tee to the pressure sensor.
7)  Unplug the ECU harness and tap wires for +12V switched, Gnd (2x), RPM,
Speed, and Throttle position.  I used those clip taps that are designed for
14 - 18 gauge wire and I think this is one source of trouble.  The Apexi
manuals even mention not to use wire splices, but to crimp the wires
together with the supplied copper C clips.

My plan was to first install the system without making the final
connections to the solonoid so I could verify everything and also get a
reading for the stock boost pressure my car will generate.  My car is a
91-VR4 so I should have about 9 psi (465 mm Hg which is the Apexi units).
The range I have seen from the Apexi head unit is -550 mmHg to 0.05 mmHg.
The -550 number indicates a vacuum of 10.6 psi which, I assume is OK under
no load.  Under full load I don't see a reading greater than 0.05 mmHg
while the stock boost gauge is maxed out (and I know the car runs right
cause I smoked a 98 Mustang Cobra in a 1/8 mile race).  So, maybe the Apexi
pressure sensor is bad??  The Apexi head unit isn't getting the RPM signal
at all, so I have to check the wire splice for the purple wire and probably
change it.  I think the wire splices aren't too good for this application,
because the Apexi harness is using smaller gauge (maybe 24) as compared to
the ECO harness.

Anyway, what do you guys think about those boost readings?

- -Jim
91-VR4 (K&N, porterfield R4S, Goodridge lines, cross drilled rotors, more
boost on the way :-)


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 15:16:32 -0600
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Noise...

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Thanks for your help all, I'm sorry I didn't mention many details, I was in a rush
at the time.  if there's anymore anyone can provide with this, I'm driving a 93 R/T
TT stick.  I'm at 86,000 miles or so and the 60k was  done at it's time.(long
before I bought it)

I never noticed it before the winter and it seems to go away, it does take a little
while and is kinda unsettling.  My 7 year warranty is up in Feb so I'll probably
just get it looked at later this week,
- --Rich

Ken Middaugh wrote:

> One possibility might be the timing belt pulley bearings and accessory belt
> pulley bearings.  How long ago was your last 60K service?  Did you replace
> pulleys during the last service?
>
> On my 120K service, I replaced all pulleys (& bearings).  That got rid of a lot
> of noise even though the pulley bearings appeared OK upon inspection.
>
> Other possibilities might be water pump bearings, alternator bearings, or AC
> compressor bearings.
>
> Try the 'wooden stick to the ear' method to isolate the location of the noise.
>
> Good luck,
> Ken
>
> > I'm hearing what sounds like kind of a rattling when I've started my car
> > lately in the cold, after running for a fair amount of time it goes
> > away, but it doesn't seem like it should be there at all
>
> --
> If you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
>
> Ken Middaugh            (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego



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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 16:44:01 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Radio help needed

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I sold my stock 91 VR-4 radio & CD Player to a guy who put it in a
91 Stealth RT Auto (non turbo) with steering wheel controls.
Problem is as follows:
Everything is working except he has no volume?
He said he was told that he needs the Amp from my car?

My question, why can't his car Amp power the new setup or what is wrong?
I thought this would be like a direct replacement. Does he really need my
car's Amp?
Thanks for any help. I know nothing about radios :)
Arty 91 VR-4


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:30:12 -0500
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ratio's

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Anyone have the ratio's handy for the 5 and 6 spd. trannies?  Also the rear
end ratio would be great.

Thanks in advance,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
- ------------Still under construction---------------



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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:14:22 EST
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radio help needed

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Yes, he needs your car's amp.  It is under the center console.  The stock VR4
radios have no amplification in them (just a pre-amp).  Although he could
probably get it to work with another amp, he will have to modify the radio to
do it.

Joe 91 TT


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 17:19:47 -0700
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radio help needed

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+>
+> Yes, he needs your car's amp.  It is under the center console.  The stock VR
4
+> radios have no amplification in them (just a pre-amp).  Although he could
+> probably get it to work with another amp, he will have to modify the radio t
o
+> do it.
+>
+> Joe 91 TT

FWIW, my 91 VR4 didn't have an amp..  and under the center console is the
SRS computer if memory serves..


Dave

95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60


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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:43:33 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsu to stop producing cars???

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Check out the story at the bottom of this link.  Cool Lancer, but bad
news if it's true.  Has anyone heard anything similar?

Jason

new tranny mod



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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 19:03:21 -0600
From: "Trevor L. James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ratio's

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These should be within .00X for the TT's
Tire Circumference=6.47 ft.

5-speed
1-3.07
2-1.74
3-1.10
4-0.82
5-0.66
Rear End-3.97

6-speed
1-3.27
2-1.90
3-1.24
4-0.92
5-0.73
6-0.59
Rear End-3.87

Trevor

Kevin wrote:

> ***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
> Anyone have the ratio's handy for the 5 and 6 spd. trannies?  Also the rear
> end ratio would be great.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.PACarSearch.com
> If you love cars, check out
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
> ------------Still under construction---------------



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End of team3s V1 #36
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