team3s
Thursday, January 20
2000 Volume 01 :
Number
032
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:37:38 -0500
From: "John T. Christian" <
jczoom@geocities.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sunroof Question
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
Hi Rah,
Been there done that.....Don't take
the 'thingy' off. It acts to buffer
the wind. If you take it off,
you will get serious wind vibrations
depending on speed and outside wind
conditions.
Or simply give you a bad hair day and mess with your ear
drums.
Be of good cheer,
John
Rah
wrote:
>
> I have a 93 R/T TT with the
sunroof, and I'm sure you're all
> framiliar with the spring/hinge thingy
that kind of aids you in putting
> it on and sticks up when it's
off.
> Well, I can't help but think it looks a
little akward how it sticks
> up when driving, assuming I'm not forgetting
to do something I should.
> So, knowing this is an odd question to ask in
January, have people made
> up simple ways to make it stay down or rigged
up something special?
>
> Just Curious,
> --Rich
>
- --
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph Now with Porsche
brakes & Supra rotors
Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538***
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:34:01
EST
From:
Klusmanp@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
I'm trying to imagine what a compression check
on the cylinders would tell
you about a sick turbo. I imagine a sick turbo
would have bad bearings or
some kind of damage to the impeller blades on
either the compressor or
turbine. Perhaps whoever suggested a
"compression check" was referring to
some kind of check on the
turbo itself?
Paul Klusman
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:45:37
+0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
> I'm trying to imagine what a compression check
on the cylinders would tell
> you about a sick turbo.
Absolutely
nothing !
> I imagine a sick turbo would have bad bearings or
some kind of damage to the impeller
> blades on either the compressor
or turbine. Perhaps whoever suggested a
>"compression
check" was referring to some kind of check on the turbo itself?
If a
turbo is boosting low this can be due to a bad engine not producing enough power
to push the turbine wheels. Of course this is the worst scenario but when
pistons are damaged or the rings are broken, pressure is going down into the
crankcase as well as the mixture does. Therefore I always suggest a compression
test to eliminate the engine being the cause for the problem. Then the next step
is gettign out the turbos to see if there is a
problem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 12:17:34
+0100
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch
(Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Gremlinomobile
***This is
the NEW Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
Hi,
Eric, thank you for your help...
>>I don't suppose you remembered
to disconnect your battery fo 20 minutes or
>>so after installing the
K&N, did you? Just checking because you didn't
>>mention
it.
Well, indeed, no, I did not....but......
>> You
need to do this anytime you make substantial changes to the
>>intake
(and probably exhaust and fuel systems, too) so that the ECU
can
>>start over with the default A/F curves and "learn" what
to expect in the
>>future...
Is replacing the stock air filter
with a K&N a "substantial change" for the
car...
it's
certainly NOT feeling this way....and I only did
that...
_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_
Even
if this was the cause....then, how the ECU can lower the boost,
given that
the boost solenoid are DISCONNECTED, and that I have a (perfectly
working
)Blitz DBSC unit in there, that would take care of the
boost
?????????
Just (damm) curious !!!!
Henri
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 05:52:10
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message end
for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From: Tim DeKeyser
<
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
-
--------------snip-------------
>diagnose my turbo PSI problem (4-5max)
with a compression
>check. I will do so eventually, but I was thinking. If
I had a
>compression problem, then that would mean oil will get
past
>the rings, and since I only lose 1/2 qt every 3-4000
miles,
>doesn't that mean my compression is OK?? It also
>NEVER
blows smoke of any kind when I step on it.
That's a lot of oil to be
losing, IMO. My '94 has only lost oil
when driving at 120 for an hour
or two - about 1/2 qt low that I
noticed at the end of a 2,000 mile
trip... Other than that one
time, I've never had to add oil between
changes. BTW, most of us
recommend changing the oil every 2500 to 3000
miles, and changing
the filter every *other* oil change.
Unless all
your driving is at high speed or under high temperature
conditions, (or you
have to start your car a few dozen times a day),
1/2 qt per 3000 miles sounds
high. First check for leaks, or a
loose oil filter. If you don't
find anything, get the
compression
checked.
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 14:38:13
GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
Keep in mind that this engine has 140,000 miles
on it. 1/2 gt of oil lost
every 4,000 miles IMO is good. I don't think I
have a compression problem.
The dealer says that The turbo's are fine, and
there is no leaks. goint to
the y-pipe or to the intake. What else could it
be?
That's a lot of oil to be losing, IMO. My '94 has only lost
oil
when driving at 120 for an hour or two - about 1/2 qt low that
I
noticed at the end of a 2,000 mile trip... Other than that
one
time, I've never had to add oil between changes. BTW, most of
us
recommend changing the oil every 2500 to 3000 miles, and changing
the
filter every *other* oil change.
Unless all your driving is at high speed
or under high temperature
conditions, (or you have to start your car a few
dozen times a day),
1/2 qt per 3000 miles sounds high. First check for
leaks, or a
loose oil filter. If you don't find anything, get the
compression
checked.
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:58:15
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
- -----Original Message-----From: Tim DeKeyser
<
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
>Keep in
mind that this engine has 140,000 miles on it. 1/2 gt of
oil
lost
>every 4,000 miles IMO is good. I don't think I have a
compression
problem.
>The dealer says that The turbo's are fine, and
there is no leaks.
goint to
>the y-pipe or to the intake. What else
could it be?
Ah, I forgot it was high miles... But that's where
the oil is
going - past the rings. By 140k, it's normal, but it's
because of
loss of compression. It's not a problem, it's just
normal
wear-and-tear. You might want to get a compression check just
to
see how much it has lost, or if any one cylinder is worse than
the
others. (BTW, getting a ring job would probably get you
another
140,000 miles!) Once you've checked on the compression, then
you
can concentrate on checking out the other
systems...
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:50:32
-0600
From: "Landis, Michael" <
MLandis@casham.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Compression check
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
I tend to agree with Tim - his oil consumption
is not that high for 140K
miles. My '92 had about 112,000 miles on it
when the water pump/timing belt
crapped out on me, resulting in an
overhaul. Before the tragedy, I was
using over a quart of oil every
3,000 miles, but I'm pretty sure it was due
to valve seals - not rings.
To determine if it was rings or seals, I added
a quart of ATF (which causes
the rubber seals to swell a little) a couple of
days before a scheduled oil
change, and all of my blow-by indicators (heavy
exhaust "smoke"
after sitting at idle for a few minutes) went away. When I
did the
overhaul and got into the engine, the cylinders still showed some of
the
original factory cross-hatching, and cylinder taper and
top-of-cylinder
"ridge" were minimal. This tells me that ring
wear was nominal, even at
that "high" mileage.
Ring wear
usually manifests itself with continuous visible smoke, especially
under
acceleration. I would imagine that significant ring wear combined
with
significant boost would also result in fuel-contaminated oil as well.
If it's
just seals, then you get a unhealthy belch of smoke upon
acceleration after
sitting at idle, but in my case there was none visible
while driving down the
highway. I don't know how much the increased
cylinder pressure of a
turbo'd car (mine's NA) would aggravate the blow-by
on a car with worn seals,
but I'd suspect that this would also result in
contaminated oil.
HOWEVER, since he's only losing 1/2 qt every oil change,
I don't think that's
enough to get excited about unless there are other
indicators (smoke, fuel in
oil...).
Final caveat: if he's got broken COMPRESSION rings (ala Roger's
pain...),
then perhaps that's a whole new ballgame. If compression
rings are broken
but the oil rings are intact, then what would the symptoms
be? I'll side
with Bob: I'd go through the trouble of pulling the
plugs, check for signs
of oil on them while you're at it, and run a
compression test on all
cylinders...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bob Forrest [
SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Sent:
Thursday, January 20, 2000 9:58 AM
> To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Compression check
>
> ***This is the NEW
Team3S list. See message end for more info.***
>
>
>
-----Original Message-----From: Tim DeKeyser <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
>
>Keep in mind that this engine has 140,000 miles on it. 1/2 gt of
> oil
lost
> >every 4,000 miles IMO is good. I don't think I have a
compression
> problem.
> >The dealer says that The turbo's are
fine, and there is no leaks.
> goint to
> >the y-pipe or to the
intake. What else could it be?
>
>
> Ah, I forgot it was
high miles... But that's where the oil is
> going - past the
rings. By 140k, it's normal, but it's because of
> loss of
compression. It's not a problem, it's just normal
>
wear-and-tear. You might want to get a compression check just to
>
see how much it has lost, or if any one cylinder is worse than the
>
others. (BTW, getting a ring job would probably get you another
>
140,000 miles!) Once you've checked on the compression, then you
>
can concentrate on checking out the other systems...
>
>
Best,
>
> Forrest
>
>
>
>
> ***
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:33:07
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Gremlinomobile
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See message
end for more info.***
> >>I don't suppose you remembered
to disconnect your battery
> >>for 20 minutes or so after
installing the K&N, did you?
> >>Just checking because
you didn't mention it.
>
> Well, indeed, no, I did
not....but......
>
> >> You need to do this anytime you
make substantial changes to the
> >>intake (and probably exhaust and
fuel systems, too) so that
> >>the ECU can start over with the
default A/F curves and
> >>"learn" what to expect in the
future...
>
> Is replacing the stock air filter with a K&N a
"substantial
> change" for the car...it's certainly NOT feeling
this way
> ....and I only did that...
>
AFAIK, it is:)
It definitely changes the amount of airflow into the engine,
and I know my
engine was happier after I reset the ECU. Granted, I have NA
car,
though... Y'all turbo buys correct me if I'm wrong, but I was
under
the impression that most of you reset your ECU after installing a
K&N as
well.
>
_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_AND_
>
> Even if this was the cause....then, how the ECU can lower the
boost,
> given that the boost solenoid are DISCONNECTED, and that I
> have a (perfectly
> working )Blitz DBSC unit in there, that would
take care of the boost
> ????????? Just (damm) curious !!!!
Hmmmm,
I think I'll have to defer this one to some of the more serious
gear
(turbine?) heads on the list:)
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 65,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
***
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:44:14
GMT
From: "Tim DeKeyser" <
tdekeyser@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 'Sport' light still blinking
***This is the NEW Team3S list. See
message end for more info.***
I have repaired the broken wire, but
the light still blinks. I have checked
both sets of wires, and the second
set was fine. Now, instead of blinking
immediatly, it stays off for the
first few bumps, then starts to blink.
Turning off the car and restarting
makes it go away for a while, but then it
comes back. What else can it
be?
Tim
'91 TT
Stealth
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 12:30:54
-0800
From: "Dave Holden" <
dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 'Sport' light still blinking
***This is the NEW Team3S list.
See message end for more info.***
In order to identify the problem
component in the ECS system you need to
read the error code. It is
possible to do this with a simple volt meter or
test light. Components
that set an error condition in the ECS unit are:
- G sensor
- Steering
angular velocity sensor
- Vehicle speed sensor
- Damping force changeover
adjuster inside spring dampers
The ECS control unit outputs a high-low
signal across pins 3(+) and 12(-) of
the diagnosis connector. This
signal indicates which of the above listed
components has set the error
condition and requires service. The error code
is encoded into
sequences of one or more long HI signals followed by one or
more short HI
signals. They can be decoded as follows:
0 LONG 7 SHORT -
Good (no error)
1 LONG 1 SHORT - G sensor
2 LONG 1 SHORT -
steering angular velocity sensor
2 LONG 4 SHORT - Vehicle speed sensor
open circuited
6 LONG 1 SHORT - FR spring damper actuator
6
LONG 2 SHORT - FL spring damper actuator
6 LONG 3 SHORT - RR
spring damper actuator
6 LONG 4 SHORT - RL spring damper
actuator
These codes can be measured with the ignition key in the ON
position. The
connector is located under the dash to the left (from the
driver's seat) of
the steering column. It is a 12 pin
connector.
Once you have identified and repaired the problem component or
wiring you
can erase the error code by either disconnecting the battery for
more than
10 seconds or cycling the ignition key between ON and OFF 60
times.
I hope this helps with your problem.
Regards,
Dave
Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Vancouver, BC
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Tim DeKeyser
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:44 AM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: 'Sport' light still blinking
I have repaired the broken wire,
but the light still blinks. I have checked
both sets of wires, and the second
set was fine. Now, instead of blinking
immediatly, it stays off for the first
few bumps, then starts to blink.
Turning off the car and restarting makes it
go away for a while, but then it
comes back. What else can it
be?
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#32
********************